文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Small black flies around 2mm long run over the soil surface or fly slowly around houseplants, pot plants and borders. Larvae are small translucent worms, up to 1cm long. They are harder to see but can be found in the immediate area under the soil around the roots. When infestations are heavy, there may be shiny silken threads on the top of the soil.
Plants affected
Fungus gnats attack the roots of virtually all houseplants, pot and border plants including vegetables, ornamentals, fruits, fungi and even weeds.
About Black fungus gnats
Fungus gnats are small flies around 2mm long, which are usually black in colour.
They are extremely common pests, usually present around most house and greenhouse plants.
There will be many overlapping generations all year round on indoor plants.
Each female fungus gnat can lay up to two hundred microscopic eggs after mating.
Eggs are laid into soil around the base of the plant, and hatch after five to seven days.
The larvae are no more than 1mm long when they first emerge, but can grow to ten times that before pupating.
The larvae are difficult to see with the naked eye due to their small size and translucent bodies.
They will hide beneath the soil surface where it is moist, and feed mostly on dead organic matter but can damage seedlings and the base of soft cuttings.
Larvae can also survive on patches of mould on greenhouse floors and benches.
At room temperature, newly hatched larvae will develop into adults in 20 to 25 days.
During hotter times of the year in greenhouses, the lifecycle can be as short as one to two weeks.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Black fungus gnats
Pyrethroids and Pyrethrin
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Place sticky traps between and around the base of plants to catch adults.
For indoor plants, the predatory mite Hypoaspis can be applied to the soil. The mites inhabit the just area under the soil surface where fungus gnats pupate.
Water the parasitic nematodes Steinernema feltiae into infested soil. These naturally occurring parasites will infect fungus gnat larvae with bacteria and kill them.
Letting the soil dry out partially may help to reduce the larval population in pots.
Prevention
Practice good plant hygiene by removing any old, dead leaves and fungal growth from the top of pots.
Water plants only when required to prevent the build up of fungal growths.
Cover the surface of pots with sand as a barrier against egg laying females.
Plants affected
Fungus gnats attack the roots of virtually all houseplants, pot and border plants including vegetables, ornamentals, fruits, fungi and even weeds.
About Black fungus gnats
Fungus gnats are small flies around 2mm long, which are usually black in colour.
They are extremely common pests, usually present around most house and greenhouse plants.
There will be many overlapping generations all year round on indoor plants.
Each female fungus gnat can lay up to two hundred microscopic eggs after mating.
Eggs are laid into soil around the base of the plant, and hatch after five to seven days.
The larvae are no more than 1mm long when they first emerge, but can grow to ten times that before pupating.
The larvae are difficult to see with the naked eye due to their small size and translucent bodies.
They will hide beneath the soil surface where it is moist, and feed mostly on dead organic matter but can damage seedlings and the base of soft cuttings.
Larvae can also survive on patches of mould on greenhouse floors and benches.
At room temperature, newly hatched larvae will develop into adults in 20 to 25 days.
During hotter times of the year in greenhouses, the lifecycle can be as short as one to two weeks.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Black fungus gnats
Pyrethroids and Pyrethrin
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Place sticky traps between and around the base of plants to catch adults.
For indoor plants, the predatory mite Hypoaspis can be applied to the soil. The mites inhabit the just area under the soil surface where fungus gnats pupate.
Water the parasitic nematodes Steinernema feltiae into infested soil. These naturally occurring parasites will infect fungus gnat larvae with bacteria and kill them.
Letting the soil dry out partially may help to reduce the larval population in pots.
Prevention
Practice good plant hygiene by removing any old, dead leaves and fungal growth from the top of pots.
Water plants only when required to prevent the build up of fungal growths.
Cover the surface of pots with sand as a barrier against egg laying females.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Dark spots or pits on the skin of the fruits and small brown blotches spread through the flesh.
Plants affected
Apples.
About
Bitter pit is caused by calcium deficiency.
In most cases, the soil has enough calcium, however it is not always available to be taken up by plants.
Levels of other nutrients such as potassium and magnesium can affect calcium availability.
Other factors which play a part include, soil acidity and moisture levels.
Treatment
On acid soils, steps can be used to raise the pH to an ideal level of around 6.5. pH testing kits are widely available and the level can be raised by adding lime to the soil. This can be a long process and the benefits of liming can be slow to appear.
Avoid using high potash (potassium) feeds. Although these are known to encourage flowering and fruiting, they can also reduce the availability of calcium in the soil.
Mulch with bulky materials which improve soil structure, such as home made compost or leaf mould.
Sprays containing calcium chloride or calcium carbonate can be applied directly to the fruits. These are often marketed as treatments for blossom end rot.
Plants affected
Apples.
About
Bitter pit is caused by calcium deficiency.
In most cases, the soil has enough calcium, however it is not always available to be taken up by plants.
Levels of other nutrients such as potassium and magnesium can affect calcium availability.
Other factors which play a part include, soil acidity and moisture levels.
Treatment
On acid soils, steps can be used to raise the pH to an ideal level of around 6.5. pH testing kits are widely available and the level can be raised by adding lime to the soil. This can be a long process and the benefits of liming can be slow to appear.
Avoid using high potash (potassium) feeds. Although these are known to encourage flowering and fruiting, they can also reduce the availability of calcium in the soil.
Mulch with bulky materials which improve soil structure, such as home made compost or leaf mould.
Sprays containing calcium chloride or calcium carbonate can be applied directly to the fruits. These are often marketed as treatments for blossom end rot.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Look for
Small piles of earth around holes in soil, lawns, paths, and at the base of exterior walls. Adults may be in the house around fresh and stored food, and on sap-sucking pest-infested plants. Large swarms of flying ants appear in late summer.
Plants affected
Garden ants rarely cause damage to plants. However, they feed on sugary foods, oily seeds, honeydew from aphid-infected plants, and other small insects. Heaps of earth around the nest entrance can be a nuisance in the lawn where they interfere with mowing, and they can also partly bury low-growing plants.
About Garden ants
There are two main species of garden ants, the red ant Myrmica rubra and the black ant, Lasius niger.
Queen ants fly in from neighbouring gardens all the time but are killed by ants from existing nests. Killing a queen and her nest simply makes space for another. For this reason it is best to focus on controlling only those nests that are causing real problems.
Adult worker ants are all female, wingless, and around 5mm in length.
Queens are significantly longer and fatter.
Larvae are white legless grubs roughly 5mm long.
Each colony can vary in size from as small as 500 individuals to many thousands.
After over-wintering, females emerge in spring and lay eggs.
The first brood will be fed by the queen for three to four weeks before pupating in the soil.
Adult workers emerge after two weeks to maintain the nest and feed the queen and subsequent larvae.
When adults find a food source they leave a trail of chemicals known as pheromones back to the nest for others to follow.
Towards the end of summer winged males and females are produced.
Between August and September mating takes place during flight.
After mating, male adults die and females shed their wings and return to the soil to overwinter.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Garden ants
Pyrethrins
Pyrethroids
There are a large number of pesticides available for ant control although these are mainly for indoor use.
Organic
Observe foraging ants and follow them back to the nest.
Dig up nests where possible making sure to remove the queen.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging bird boxes and feeders.
Place tin cans over the ant hill in the morning. As it heats up, the ants take their eggs up into the can. In the afternoon slide a piece of cardboard under each can, and remove and dispose of the eggs. They make a tasty treat for birds, especially chickens.
Prevention
Clean previously infested surfaces to remove pheromone trails.
Use natural predators and parasites to control aphid populations.
Dig up soil in the winter months to disturb overwintering females.
Maintain pest-free plants.
Clean honeydew from any infested plants with water.
Small piles of earth around holes in soil, lawns, paths, and at the base of exterior walls. Adults may be in the house around fresh and stored food, and on sap-sucking pest-infested plants. Large swarms of flying ants appear in late summer.
Plants affected
Garden ants rarely cause damage to plants. However, they feed on sugary foods, oily seeds, honeydew from aphid-infected plants, and other small insects. Heaps of earth around the nest entrance can be a nuisance in the lawn where they interfere with mowing, and they can also partly bury low-growing plants.
About Garden ants
There are two main species of garden ants, the red ant Myrmica rubra and the black ant, Lasius niger.
Queen ants fly in from neighbouring gardens all the time but are killed by ants from existing nests. Killing a queen and her nest simply makes space for another. For this reason it is best to focus on controlling only those nests that are causing real problems.
Adult worker ants are all female, wingless, and around 5mm in length.
Queens are significantly longer and fatter.
Larvae are white legless grubs roughly 5mm long.
Each colony can vary in size from as small as 500 individuals to many thousands.
After over-wintering, females emerge in spring and lay eggs.
The first brood will be fed by the queen for three to four weeks before pupating in the soil.
Adult workers emerge after two weeks to maintain the nest and feed the queen and subsequent larvae.
When adults find a food source they leave a trail of chemicals known as pheromones back to the nest for others to follow.
Towards the end of summer winged males and females are produced.
Between August and September mating takes place during flight.
After mating, male adults die and females shed their wings and return to the soil to overwinter.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Garden ants
Pyrethrins
Pyrethroids
There are a large number of pesticides available for ant control although these are mainly for indoor use.
Organic
Observe foraging ants and follow them back to the nest.
Dig up nests where possible making sure to remove the queen.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging bird boxes and feeders.
Place tin cans over the ant hill in the morning. As it heats up, the ants take their eggs up into the can. In the afternoon slide a piece of cardboard under each can, and remove and dispose of the eggs. They make a tasty treat for birds, especially chickens.
Prevention
Clean previously infested surfaces to remove pheromone trails.
Use natural predators and parasites to control aphid populations.
Dig up soil in the winter months to disturb overwintering females.
Maintain pest-free plants.
Clean honeydew from any infested plants with water.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Fairy rings are caused by a diverse family of soil-inhabiting fungi called basidiomycetes. They typically appear as dark green circles in the lawn ranging in size from a few inches to 200 feet or more in diameter. Lush rings of turf are formed by the release of nutrients, in particular nitrogen, from the activity of the fungus living on organic matter in the soil. A circle of mushrooms usually develops around the edge of the infected area.
Fairy rings grow outward at the rate of 6 to 24 inches annually depending on grass, soil and weather conditions. They are most common on sandy soils that are low in water and fertility. Thick thatch layers also contribute to this problem.
Besides being unsightly, fairy rings can cause serious damage to lawns. Often the disease will produce a thick fungal mat that prevents water from reaching the grass roots below. Once the soil becomes dry it is very difficult to wet and the grass roots eventually die. The fungus may also deplete soil nutrients and, in some cases, will release a toxic by-product that can directly kill the turf within a ring.
Note: The name “fairy ring” comes from an old folk-tale. People once believed that the mushrooms appeared where fairies had danced the night before.
Treatment
Recommended products labeled for use against this fungal problem include:
Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Use 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and thoroughly soak the problem area, repeat as needed. One pint diluted treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this turfgrass disease.
Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
Keep lawns well watered.
Encourage beneficial soil microbes by top dressing with a humus builder such as well aged manure or finished compost.
Once the disease appears it is very difficult to eliminate — there is NO natural control.
Homeowners will often mask the problem, using fertilizers rich in nitrogen, rather than eradicate it.
Mushrooms can be removed by regular mowing or raking.
Most fungicides have NOT proven to be effective.
Your mantra should be; fertilize, water, aerate and mow.
Fairy rings grow outward at the rate of 6 to 24 inches annually depending on grass, soil and weather conditions. They are most common on sandy soils that are low in water and fertility. Thick thatch layers also contribute to this problem.
Besides being unsightly, fairy rings can cause serious damage to lawns. Often the disease will produce a thick fungal mat that prevents water from reaching the grass roots below. Once the soil becomes dry it is very difficult to wet and the grass roots eventually die. The fungus may also deplete soil nutrients and, in some cases, will release a toxic by-product that can directly kill the turf within a ring.
Note: The name “fairy ring” comes from an old folk-tale. People once believed that the mushrooms appeared where fairies had danced the night before.
Treatment
Recommended products labeled for use against this fungal problem include:
Physan 20 works on a variety of disease outbreaks affecting lawns, turf and grass. Use 1 Tbsp per gallon of water and thoroughly soak the problem area, repeat as needed. One pint diluted treats 6,400 square feet.
Practices that promote a healthy lawn will help to reduce the occurrence of this turfgrass disease.
Remove excess thatch and aerate compacted soils.
Keep lawns well watered.
Encourage beneficial soil microbes by top dressing with a humus builder such as well aged manure or finished compost.
Once the disease appears it is very difficult to eliminate — there is NO natural control.
Homeowners will often mask the problem, using fertilizers rich in nitrogen, rather than eradicate it.
Mushrooms can be removed by regular mowing or raking.
Most fungicides have NOT proven to be effective.
Your mantra should be; fertilize, water, aerate and mow.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Root aphids — aphids that stay at or above the soil line — are from the family Phylloxera, a near-cousin of aphids. They are an escalating problem, especially among indoor growers, and spreading through parts of the country where they haven’t been seen before. They’re hard to spot and unlike small colonies of green and other aphids found on stems and leaves, root aphids are more likely to get out of control. They can multiply quickly, unseen, and sap enough vigor from your plants to kill them.
Because they’re small — about the size of a mite — and often colored to blend with roots and soil, Phylloxera is hard to spot. Often, growers will see the white, waxy material that the aphids secrete, a chalkier type of the honeydew secreted by other aphids. Their bodies are more pear-shaped than oval as are mealybugs. They’re about the same size or slightly smaller than stem-and-leaf aphids with shorter legs and antennae. They come in a variety of colors, including pink, but are mostly white and brown. They’re commonly confused with the larger mealy bugs, because of the white substance they spread. In their winged stage, they can be confused with fungus gnats. Like other aphids, they have small cornicals or “tail pipes” at the end of their abdomen which also distinguishes them from mealybugs.
Because of their size and below-soil habitat they can go unnoticed, even through one or more grow cycles. They can be spotted attached to the sides of grow cups when growers take the trouble to look. Root aphid damage is often mistaken for other problems, especially nutrient deficiencies. Plants that appear to be suffering from magnesium or iron deficiency should be checked carefully for root aphids.
In outdoor gardens, root aphids may be accompanied by ants. Once established in soil or hydroponic systems, root aphids are difficult to completely remove.
Lifecycle
Root aphids are surprisingly adaptable and their lifecycle can vary tremendously. They reproduce asexually during the growing season. Eggs over-winter in soil or, in warm seasons, are attached to leaves and stems above the root line where they hatch and fall to the ground. The aphid bores into the root, creating scars that leave plants vulnerable to mildew and disease. As infestations increase, “crawlers” will move up the stem to feed. Once a plant is nearly destroyed, some root aphids will develop wings that enable them to seek new plants to attack. In the fall, winged aphids, now male and female, mate in brush and trees and produce more eggs. Ants are known to carry aphids from exhausted plants to un-colonized ones.
Damage
Damage from root aphids is usually visible in a lack of vigor from plants. Withered, curled, and yellow leaves, similar to signs of nutrient deficiencies, appear and plants fail to reach the size of uninfested plants. Fruits and blossoms on aphid infested plants will be small, stunted, and generally less desirable as nutrition is siphoned away from them.
Attacks from root aphids can leave plants vulnerable to root rot, mildew, and disease.
Visible symptoms, like yellowing leaves, often lead growers to consider adding certain minerals, usually magnesium, to their nutrient mixture, often with no result.
In addition to greenhouse and garden perennials, various types of root aphids attack rice crops, the roots of a variety of trees including fir, walnut, and hickory. Root aphids can also cause problems for perennial herbs, including those grown in pots.
Root Aphid Control
Detecting the first signs of root aphids, especially when growing indoors, is crucial to saving your plants vegetating and fruiting abilities. At a certain point, usually sooner rather than later, affected plants and containers should be removed from the grow space completely and destroyed.
Waiting for fruits or flowers to mature in an attempt to save something of a crop is not advised. This only gives root aphids a chance to inoculate themselves into your entire grow area. It’s best to start over, sanitizing all containers and growing equipment that’s been used. Indoor growers should clean their entire grow space.
Outdoor plants:
Avoid introducing commercial grade soils, including bagged composts, that may contain aphids and their eggs. This is probably the most usual way that aphids have been spread to gardens throughout the country. Buy soil and compost from a reliable, local source, make your own.
Attract birds who will pick aphid eggs from trees and the ground.
Several types of parasitic wasps attack aphid eggs. Ladybugs will also predate aphids they find on the surface but not those burrowed in the soil.
Introduce beneficial nematodes (link below) into soil at the first sign of root aphid infestation or, better, in anticipation of them. Nematodes will attack a number of soil-borne pests yet are harmless to earthworms, pets, and humans. Make sure the soil is moist when applying nematodes.
Use Azatrol as a preventive treatment to prevent aphids from feeding on roots. Because it’s slow acting, Azatrol is not a good choice for treating infestations, but can be effective, over time, for minor infestations.
Neem oil can help stop aphid infestations from growing, especially as crawlers move up stems.
Do not use insecticidal soaps to control soil-borne aphids. While they will kill crawlers moving up plant stems, they will do little to stop aphids in the soil and may harm your plants’ roots.
Pyrethrum-based sprays can be effective if used early enough in the infestation. Water lightly after applying to disperse this chrysanthemum-based botanical into the soil. Reapply every two weeks (eggs in soil may continue hatching) until plants regain vigor and all aphid sign disappears.
When removing infected plants, be careful not to drop soil or spread aphids into other parts of your garden. Put plants, roots and all, in a bucket, and take away with minimum disturbance. Removal, in conjunction with preventive spraying, may be your most effective form of control.
Indoor plants:
Avoid importing soil or other growing medium of unknown origin into your growing space. Many nursery plants, especially those from large, commercial growers, have been found to carry root aphids and their eggs into green houses.
Use yellow sticky traps across indoor grow spaces to discover signs of root aphids on the move.
Pay careful attention to your plants. Roots that are visible in grow cups and other hydroponic methods should be periodically inspected. The small, usually white mite stage may be noticeable attached to the sides of grow cups, tanks and trays.
Beneficial nematodes introduced to hydroponic solutions at the first sign of infestation may slow the spread of root aphids.
With lights off, saturate the growing medium with a solution of Nuke Em (1 oz/ 31 oz water). Slowly pour near the plant stem into the soil and let stand for at least 1 hour — longer contact times are best. Rinse the media before turning lights back on.
When treating aphids in various indoor growing mediums, complete and thorough coverage of infected areas is critical to control. Submerge infested grow cups and root balls completely in a pyrethrum concentrate for a half-minute or more, gently swirling roots and medium to insure complete saturation.
Remove badly infested plants. No orchid, no herb or flowering perennial is worth risking your other plants and the health of your entire grow space in an attempt to wait out harvest on an affected plant.
Dealing with root aphids, indoors or out, is an evolving and ever-changing set of practices. Don’t be tempted to use harsh, chemical treatments if you already have an infestation. A University of Maryland Cooperative Extension study conducted inside two greenhouses with root aphids on gallardia, aster and boltonia perennials found applications of Talstar (bifenthrin) and Marathon (imidacloprid) applied as a soil drench gave poor results. Keeping aphids out of your garden or grow space in the first place is the most effective practice. And with this problem spreading, it is becoming harder and harder to do.
Because they’re small — about the size of a mite — and often colored to blend with roots and soil, Phylloxera is hard to spot. Often, growers will see the white, waxy material that the aphids secrete, a chalkier type of the honeydew secreted by other aphids. Their bodies are more pear-shaped than oval as are mealybugs. They’re about the same size or slightly smaller than stem-and-leaf aphids with shorter legs and antennae. They come in a variety of colors, including pink, but are mostly white and brown. They’re commonly confused with the larger mealy bugs, because of the white substance they spread. In their winged stage, they can be confused with fungus gnats. Like other aphids, they have small cornicals or “tail pipes” at the end of their abdomen which also distinguishes them from mealybugs.
Because of their size and below-soil habitat they can go unnoticed, even through one or more grow cycles. They can be spotted attached to the sides of grow cups when growers take the trouble to look. Root aphid damage is often mistaken for other problems, especially nutrient deficiencies. Plants that appear to be suffering from magnesium or iron deficiency should be checked carefully for root aphids.
In outdoor gardens, root aphids may be accompanied by ants. Once established in soil or hydroponic systems, root aphids are difficult to completely remove.
Lifecycle
Root aphids are surprisingly adaptable and their lifecycle can vary tremendously. They reproduce asexually during the growing season. Eggs over-winter in soil or, in warm seasons, are attached to leaves and stems above the root line where they hatch and fall to the ground. The aphid bores into the root, creating scars that leave plants vulnerable to mildew and disease. As infestations increase, “crawlers” will move up the stem to feed. Once a plant is nearly destroyed, some root aphids will develop wings that enable them to seek new plants to attack. In the fall, winged aphids, now male and female, mate in brush and trees and produce more eggs. Ants are known to carry aphids from exhausted plants to un-colonized ones.
Damage
Damage from root aphids is usually visible in a lack of vigor from plants. Withered, curled, and yellow leaves, similar to signs of nutrient deficiencies, appear and plants fail to reach the size of uninfested plants. Fruits and blossoms on aphid infested plants will be small, stunted, and generally less desirable as nutrition is siphoned away from them.
Attacks from root aphids can leave plants vulnerable to root rot, mildew, and disease.
Visible symptoms, like yellowing leaves, often lead growers to consider adding certain minerals, usually magnesium, to their nutrient mixture, often with no result.
In addition to greenhouse and garden perennials, various types of root aphids attack rice crops, the roots of a variety of trees including fir, walnut, and hickory. Root aphids can also cause problems for perennial herbs, including those grown in pots.
Root Aphid Control
Detecting the first signs of root aphids, especially when growing indoors, is crucial to saving your plants vegetating and fruiting abilities. At a certain point, usually sooner rather than later, affected plants and containers should be removed from the grow space completely and destroyed.
Waiting for fruits or flowers to mature in an attempt to save something of a crop is not advised. This only gives root aphids a chance to inoculate themselves into your entire grow area. It’s best to start over, sanitizing all containers and growing equipment that’s been used. Indoor growers should clean their entire grow space.
Outdoor plants:
Avoid introducing commercial grade soils, including bagged composts, that may contain aphids and their eggs. This is probably the most usual way that aphids have been spread to gardens throughout the country. Buy soil and compost from a reliable, local source, make your own.
Attract birds who will pick aphid eggs from trees and the ground.
Several types of parasitic wasps attack aphid eggs. Ladybugs will also predate aphids they find on the surface but not those burrowed in the soil.
Introduce beneficial nematodes (link below) into soil at the first sign of root aphid infestation or, better, in anticipation of them. Nematodes will attack a number of soil-borne pests yet are harmless to earthworms, pets, and humans. Make sure the soil is moist when applying nematodes.
Use Azatrol as a preventive treatment to prevent aphids from feeding on roots. Because it’s slow acting, Azatrol is not a good choice for treating infestations, but can be effective, over time, for minor infestations.
Neem oil can help stop aphid infestations from growing, especially as crawlers move up stems.
Do not use insecticidal soaps to control soil-borne aphids. While they will kill crawlers moving up plant stems, they will do little to stop aphids in the soil and may harm your plants’ roots.
Pyrethrum-based sprays can be effective if used early enough in the infestation. Water lightly after applying to disperse this chrysanthemum-based botanical into the soil. Reapply every two weeks (eggs in soil may continue hatching) until plants regain vigor and all aphid sign disappears.
When removing infected plants, be careful not to drop soil or spread aphids into other parts of your garden. Put plants, roots and all, in a bucket, and take away with minimum disturbance. Removal, in conjunction with preventive spraying, may be your most effective form of control.
Indoor plants:
Avoid importing soil or other growing medium of unknown origin into your growing space. Many nursery plants, especially those from large, commercial growers, have been found to carry root aphids and their eggs into green houses.
Use yellow sticky traps across indoor grow spaces to discover signs of root aphids on the move.
Pay careful attention to your plants. Roots that are visible in grow cups and other hydroponic methods should be periodically inspected. The small, usually white mite stage may be noticeable attached to the sides of grow cups, tanks and trays.
Beneficial nematodes introduced to hydroponic solutions at the first sign of infestation may slow the spread of root aphids.
With lights off, saturate the growing medium with a solution of Nuke Em (1 oz/ 31 oz water). Slowly pour near the plant stem into the soil and let stand for at least 1 hour — longer contact times are best. Rinse the media before turning lights back on.
When treating aphids in various indoor growing mediums, complete and thorough coverage of infected areas is critical to control. Submerge infested grow cups and root balls completely in a pyrethrum concentrate for a half-minute or more, gently swirling roots and medium to insure complete saturation.
Remove badly infested plants. No orchid, no herb or flowering perennial is worth risking your other plants and the health of your entire grow space in an attempt to wait out harvest on an affected plant.
Dealing with root aphids, indoors or out, is an evolving and ever-changing set of practices. Don’t be tempted to use harsh, chemical treatments if you already have an infestation. A University of Maryland Cooperative Extension study conducted inside two greenhouses with root aphids on gallardia, aster and boltonia perennials found applications of Talstar (bifenthrin) and Marathon (imidacloprid) applied as a soil drench gave poor results. Keeping aphids out of your garden or grow space in the first place is the most effective practice. And with this problem spreading, it is becoming harder and harder to do.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Commonly found throughout the United States, Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne pathogen that attacks potato, tomato, eggplant and pepper plants. Disease fungi (Fusarium oxysporum) enter through the roots and interfere with the water conducting vessels of the plant. As the infection spreads up into the stems and leaves it restricts water flow causing the foliage to wilt and turn yellow.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
Disease symptoms often appear later in the growing season and are first noticed on the lower (older) leaves. As the disease progresses, the younger leaves will also be affected and the plant eventually dies. In many cases, only one branch or side of the plant show symptoms.
Fusarium wilt can survive for years in the soil and is spread by water, insects and garden equipment. The fungal disease develops during hot weather and is most destructive when soil temperatures approach 80˚F. Dry weather and low soil moisture encourage this plant disease.
Treatment
Plant resistant varieties when available.
Remove stricken growth from the garden and sterilize pruning clippers (one part bleach to 4 parts water) between cuts.
Use Safer® Yard & Garden Insect Killer to control many garden insects, like cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.
High nitrogen fertilizers may increase susceptibility to the disease. Test your soil and use a slow-release, organic fertilizer in the vegetable garden.
Hand pull or spot treat weeds using a weed flamer or natural herbicide — many weed species host the disease pathogen.
Mycostop is a biological fungicide that will safely protect crops against wilt caused by Fusarium. Approved for use in organic crop production, it can be applied as a soil spray or drench (1-2 gm/ 100 sq ft) to seedlings, ornamentals and vegetables. Apply sufficient water during application to move Mycostop into the root zone.
If the disease persists, it is best to remove the entire plant and solarize* the soil before planting again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
A soil-borne fungal disease that affects seeds and new seedlings, damping off usually refers to the rotting of stem and root tissues at and below the soil surface. In most cases, infected plants will germinate and come up fine, but within a few days they become water-soaked and mushy, fall over at the base and die.
Several fungi can cause decay of seeds and seedlings including species of rhizoctonia, fusarium and phytophthora. However, species of the soil fungus pythium are most often the culprit. Damping off typically occurs when old seed is planted in cold, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage. High humidity levels, rich potting soils and planting too deeply will also encourage its growth.
Fungal spores live in the soil and are primarily a problem in seed beds. They can be transported on garden tools and in garden soils taken into the house or greenhouse.
Note: Older plants are rarely killed by damping off primarily because the production of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.
Treatment
There is no cure for plants that already have damping off. However, you can easily prevent the problem by providing good air circulation. A small fan or simply cracking the lid of the germination tray will suffice. The biological fungicide Mycostop may also be used as a seed treatment to prevent seed or soil-borne diseases. Other steps for preventing damping off include the following:
When starting seeds indoors, use good organic potting soil or sterilize your own potting soil in an oven.
Make sure your seed starter mix is light and fast-draining.
Plant seedlings so that the soil surface is near the top of the container to insure proper air circulation.
Sow seeds thinly to prevent over crowding which can lead to humid, moist conditions.
Seedling trays that provide water from below are preferable to overhead watering.
Never water past noon so that the soil surface and the plants are dry by evening.
Avoid overwatering tender seedlings.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of disease problems. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack many fungal problems, including pythium, fusarium and root rot.
Several fungi can cause decay of seeds and seedlings including species of rhizoctonia, fusarium and phytophthora. However, species of the soil fungus pythium are most often the culprit. Damping off typically occurs when old seed is planted in cold, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage. High humidity levels, rich potting soils and planting too deeply will also encourage its growth.
Fungal spores live in the soil and are primarily a problem in seed beds. They can be transported on garden tools and in garden soils taken into the house or greenhouse.
Note: Older plants are rarely killed by damping off primarily because the production of secondary stem tissue forms a protective barrier and limits fungal penetration.
Treatment
There is no cure for plants that already have damping off. However, you can easily prevent the problem by providing good air circulation. A small fan or simply cracking the lid of the germination tray will suffice. The biological fungicide Mycostop may also be used as a seed treatment to prevent seed or soil-borne diseases. Other steps for preventing damping off include the following:
When starting seeds indoors, use good organic potting soil or sterilize your own potting soil in an oven.
Make sure your seed starter mix is light and fast-draining.
Plant seedlings so that the soil surface is near the top of the container to insure proper air circulation.
Sow seeds thinly to prevent over crowding which can lead to humid, moist conditions.
Seedling trays that provide water from below are preferable to overhead watering.
Never water past noon so that the soil surface and the plants are dry by evening.
Avoid overwatering tender seedlings.
Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of disease problems. Apply as a soil drench or foliar spray (3-4 tsp/ gallon of water) to prevent and attack many fungal problems, including pythium, fusarium and root rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Crown gall is a common plant disease caused by the soil-borne bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens. It is found throughout the world and occurs on woody shrubs and herbaceous plants including grapes, raspberries, blackberries and roses.
Crown gall symptoms include round, wart-like growths — 2 inches or larger in diameter — that appear at or just above the soil line, or on lower branches and stems. Plants with several galls may be unable to move water and nutrients up the trunk and become weakened, stunted and unproductive. Young plants can be killed by developing gall tissue.
The bacteria responsible for crown gall can persist in the soil for many years and are released when galls become saturated with moisture or as older galls decompose. Susceptible plants are infected through fresh wounds or abrasions, many of which are a result of pruning, freeze injury, soil insects, cultivation and other factors that may damage plants. Nursery stock is often infected through grafting and budding scars.
Treatment
Select resistant cultivars when possible and purchase plants from a reputable nursery.
Do not buy plants that shows signs of swelling or galling.
When caring for susceptible plants, avoid injury or pruning wounds that may come in contact with the soil.
Use Tree Wrap to protect against string trimmer damage and keep your garden tools clean.
Provide winter protection with natural burlap so bark does not crack.
In many cases, existing galls can be removed with a sharp pruning knife. Destroy the infected plant tissue and treat the wound with pruning sealer. If the plant does not recover, remove and destroy it.
Crown gall symptoms include round, wart-like growths — 2 inches or larger in diameter — that appear at or just above the soil line, or on lower branches and stems. Plants with several galls may be unable to move water and nutrients up the trunk and become weakened, stunted and unproductive. Young plants can be killed by developing gall tissue.
The bacteria responsible for crown gall can persist in the soil for many years and are released when galls become saturated with moisture or as older galls decompose. Susceptible plants are infected through fresh wounds or abrasions, many of which are a result of pruning, freeze injury, soil insects, cultivation and other factors that may damage plants. Nursery stock is often infected through grafting and budding scars.
Treatment
Select resistant cultivars when possible and purchase plants from a reputable nursery.
Do not buy plants that shows signs of swelling or galling.
When caring for susceptible plants, avoid injury or pruning wounds that may come in contact with the soil.
Use Tree Wrap to protect against string trimmer damage and keep your garden tools clean.
Provide winter protection with natural burlap so bark does not crack.
In many cases, existing galls can be removed with a sharp pruning knife. Destroy the infected plant tissue and treat the wound with pruning sealer. If the plant does not recover, remove and destroy it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Affecting most brassica crops (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), club root is a serious plant disease in North American home gardens. It is caused by the soil-borne fungus Plasmodiophora brassicae which infects susceptible plants through root hairs. Diseased roots become swollen, misshapen and deformed (clubbed) often cracking and rotting. As a result, plants have difficulty absorbing water and nutrients properly.
Plants often grow poorly and wilt during the heat of the day; plants often revive during cool nights. Outer leaves may turn yellow, purple or brown. Club root will reduce yields and can cause total crop failure.
Fungal spores can be spread by wind, water and garden tools. Disease development can occur over a wide range of conditions, but is favored by excessive moisture, low soil pH and soil temperatures between 64 and 77˚F. Spores can survive in the soil for as many as 10 years.
Treatment
Fungicides will NOT treat this soil-dwelling micro-organism.
Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
Try to prevent the occurrence of this disease by keeping a clean garden and rotating crops.
Keep in mind that the disease spores can persist in the soil for up to 20 years. If club root is present you may want to solarize the soil.*
Control susceptible weeds — mustard, radish, shepherd’s purse — that may be infected to reduce potential buildup of the disease.
Carefully remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Raise your soil’s pH to a more alkaline 7.2 by mixing oyster shell or dolomite lime into your garden in the fall. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
* To solarize your soil, you must leave a clear plastic tarp on the soil surface for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Soil solarization will reduce or eliminate many soil inhabiting pests including nematodes, fungi, insects, weeds and weed seeds.
Plants often grow poorly and wilt during the heat of the day; plants often revive during cool nights. Outer leaves may turn yellow, purple or brown. Club root will reduce yields and can cause total crop failure.
Fungal spores can be spread by wind, water and garden tools. Disease development can occur over a wide range of conditions, but is favored by excessive moisture, low soil pH and soil temperatures between 64 and 77˚F. Spores can survive in the soil for as many as 10 years.
Treatment
Fungicides will NOT treat this soil-dwelling micro-organism.
Choose resistant cultivars when possible.
Try to prevent the occurrence of this disease by keeping a clean garden and rotating crops.
Keep in mind that the disease spores can persist in the soil for up to 20 years. If club root is present you may want to solarize the soil.*
Control susceptible weeds — mustard, radish, shepherd’s purse — that may be infected to reduce potential buildup of the disease.
Carefully remove infected plants and sterilize garden tools (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after use.
Raise your soil’s pH to a more alkaline 7.2 by mixing oyster shell or dolomite lime into your garden in the fall. Simple and affordable soil test kits are available to check pH often.
* To solarize your soil, you must leave a clear plastic tarp on the soil surface for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of the year. Soil solarization will reduce or eliminate many soil inhabiting pests including nematodes, fungi, insects, weeds and weed seeds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Sod webworms live in the thatch, just above the soil, where they spin a light webbing and feed on the undersides of leaves. Damage first appears as small, ragged brown spots in the turf. As feeding continues these areas become larger and may join other large dead patches of grass. Damage occurs on most turfgrasses including bluegrass, bentgrass, tall and fine-leafed fescues and buffalo grass and is most prevalent in areas that receive plenty of direct sunlight or south-facing slopes. Heavily shaded areas are seldom attacked.
The sod webworm (1 inch long) is the larval or caterpillar stage of a small white-brown moth (1/2 to 3/4 inches long) with pale yellow or brown markings on their wings. The adult moths have a habit of folding their wings up closely to their bodies when at rest, earning the group the name “close-winged moths.” If disturbed, the moths fly in a zig zag pattern for short distances before settling again. Adults do not feed on lawns.
Life Cycle
Sod webworms overwinter as young larvae in silk-lined tunnels near the soil surface or in the thatch. They resume feeding as temperatures warm in April or early May and pass through several instars until their development is complete. In early June, webworms pupate in loosely woven cocoons made of silk and bits of dirt. Approximately 10-14 days later adult moths emerge and begin mating. Mated females fly just above the lawn surface and randomly scatter their eggs into the grass. Each female may lay several hundred eggs which hatch into a new generation of larvae within a week. Young larvae spin webs and feed until mid-summer. There are two to three generations per year in most areas.
Sod Webworm Control
Water regularly and reduce thatch and other horticultural stresses on lawns.
For light to moderate infestations use a soap drench (2 Tbsp. liquid soap per gallon of water) to draw caterpillars up to the lawn surface, then rake and destroy.
Beneficial nematodes are a very effective biological control for use against this pest. For best results, water the lawn a day or two prior to applying the nematodes and water the lawn again, immediately after application.
The natural, soil dwelling bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis or Bt-kurstaki is particularly effective on webworms. Use the easy-to-apply liquid spray (1 Tbsp/ gallon) to hit pests and protect your turf at the first signs of damage. Repeat at 5-7 day intervals, if needed. BTK sprays do not harm honey bees or birds and are safe for use around pets and children.
Spinosad, another biological agent derived from fermentation, is also very effective. It’s the active ingredient in Monterey® Garden Insect Spray, a product classified as organic by the USDA’s National Organic Program and listed for organic use by OMRI. Mix 2 oz/ gallon (3 gallons of spray treats 1,000 sq ft). Delay watering and mowing after application for 12-24 hours.
Safer® Insecticidal Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
The sod webworm (1 inch long) is the larval or caterpillar stage of a small white-brown moth (1/2 to 3/4 inches long) with pale yellow or brown markings on their wings. The adult moths have a habit of folding their wings up closely to their bodies when at rest, earning the group the name “close-winged moths.” If disturbed, the moths fly in a zig zag pattern for short distances before settling again. Adults do not feed on lawns.
Life Cycle
Sod webworms overwinter as young larvae in silk-lined tunnels near the soil surface or in the thatch. They resume feeding as temperatures warm in April or early May and pass through several instars until their development is complete. In early June, webworms pupate in loosely woven cocoons made of silk and bits of dirt. Approximately 10-14 days later adult moths emerge and begin mating. Mated females fly just above the lawn surface and randomly scatter their eggs into the grass. Each female may lay several hundred eggs which hatch into a new generation of larvae within a week. Young larvae spin webs and feed until mid-summer. There are two to three generations per year in most areas.
Sod Webworm Control
Water regularly and reduce thatch and other horticultural stresses on lawns.
For light to moderate infestations use a soap drench (2 Tbsp. liquid soap per gallon of water) to draw caterpillars up to the lawn surface, then rake and destroy.
Beneficial nematodes are a very effective biological control for use against this pest. For best results, water the lawn a day or two prior to applying the nematodes and water the lawn again, immediately after application.
The natural, soil dwelling bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis or Bt-kurstaki is particularly effective on webworms. Use the easy-to-apply liquid spray (1 Tbsp/ gallon) to hit pests and protect your turf at the first signs of damage. Repeat at 5-7 day intervals, if needed. BTK sprays do not harm honey bees or birds and are safe for use around pets and children.
Spinosad, another biological agent derived from fermentation, is also very effective. It’s the active ingredient in Monterey® Garden Insect Spray, a product classified as organic by the USDA’s National Organic Program and listed for organic use by OMRI. Mix 2 oz/ gallon (3 gallons of spray treats 1,000 sq ft). Delay watering and mowing after application for 12-24 hours.
Safer® Insecticidal Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Parasitic nematodes seek out insects harmful to garden plants, shrubs and trees in their soil-borne stages and destroy them from the inside out. Present in soils throughout the world, these microscopic, non-segmented worms destroy over 200 types of insects that mature in the ground including weevils, Japanese beetles, fleas, borers and fungus gnats, before they reach adult stages.
Shop our large selection of biological controls, including beneficial nematodes, at Planet Natural. One pint — 10 million active units — treats up to 550 square feet and costs $29.95 with FedEx 2-Day shipping included!
When released into the soil, nematodes seek out the larvae and pupae of susceptible pests by sensing the heat and carbon dioxide they generate. They enter pests through various orifices or directly through the “skin.” Once inside the host, they release a bacterium that kills it within a day or two. They will continue to feed on the remains, multiplying as they do, before exhausting it and leaving to seek another food source.
Nematodes do not prey on lady bugs, earthworms or most other beneficial insects. They are harmless to plants and humans as is the bacterium they produce. Evidence of the nematodes effectiveness, other than reduced pest populations, is difficult to spot as these microscopic creatures consume their hosts in the soil, leaving little trace behind. They’re appropriate for use on lawns, in gardens and around trees and shrubs. They need generally moist condition to facilitate their movement.
HOW TO RELEASE:
Simply scatter over the infested area, then water. Optimally, nematodes should be applied at sunset to protect them against sunlight.
To control boring insects, prepare a water suspension, then inject or spray the solution into the burrows.
Repeat weekly for a minimum of three weeks.
Note: Scanmask®, a product based on a selected strain of Steinernema feltiae, will provide insect control in an area from 250 to 550 square feet. This refers to the area actually at risk or already infested by insects. Since infestations are rarely uniform, nematodes should be used as a “directed control measure” on areas already or at risk of being infested.
Shop our large selection of biological controls, including beneficial nematodes, at Planet Natural. One pint — 10 million active units — treats up to 550 square feet and costs $29.95 with FedEx 2-Day shipping included!
When released into the soil, nematodes seek out the larvae and pupae of susceptible pests by sensing the heat and carbon dioxide they generate. They enter pests through various orifices or directly through the “skin.” Once inside the host, they release a bacterium that kills it within a day or two. They will continue to feed on the remains, multiplying as they do, before exhausting it and leaving to seek another food source.
Nematodes do not prey on lady bugs, earthworms or most other beneficial insects. They are harmless to plants and humans as is the bacterium they produce. Evidence of the nematodes effectiveness, other than reduced pest populations, is difficult to spot as these microscopic creatures consume their hosts in the soil, leaving little trace behind. They’re appropriate for use on lawns, in gardens and around trees and shrubs. They need generally moist condition to facilitate their movement.
HOW TO RELEASE:
Simply scatter over the infested area, then water. Optimally, nematodes should be applied at sunset to protect them against sunlight.
To control boring insects, prepare a water suspension, then inject or spray the solution into the burrows.
Repeat weekly for a minimum of three weeks.
Note: Scanmask®, a product based on a selected strain of Steinernema feltiae, will provide insect control in an area from 250 to 550 square feet. This refers to the area actually at risk or already infested by insects. Since infestations are rarely uniform, nematodes should be used as a “directed control measure” on areas already or at risk of being infested.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Fusarium wilt (foo-zair-ee-um) is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. lycopersici. Fusarium wilt is found worldwide and even resistant tomato varieties may be affected. The fungus is soil borne and makes its way into the plant through the roots. Once inside, it clogs and blocks the xylem, the tissue that moves water and some nutrients through the plant, preventing water from traveling up the stem and out into the branches and leaves.
It may not kill your tomato plants, but they won't be very productive.
Species of Fusarium can infect many plants including: potatoes, peppers, eggplants, legumes and bananas.
Symptoms of Verticillium wilt can be very similar to Fusarium wilt.
What Causes Fusarium Wilt?
The Fusarium wilt pathogen is soil borne and can remain in infected soil for years. It can also be carried and transmitted in multiple ways, like:
infected seed
seedlings from infected soil
the bottom of shoes
shovels and equipment used in infected soil
infected soil blown into the garden
Ideal conditions for Fusarium wilt include warm, dry weather and acidic soil pH (5.0 - 5.6)
There are tomato varieties that are resistant to fusarium wilt, but if they are weakened by root-knot nematode, they become more susceptible to it.
Plants infected with Fusarium wilt will be stunted and the earlier they are infected, them more severe the stunting.
Keep reading for more photos and descriptions of Fusarium Wilt symptoms and how to control it.
Symptoms of Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
Fusarium wilt can sometimes be confused with other wilts, but here are some symptoms to help you identify it in tomatoes:
Wilting The plants will literally wilt. Often it starts with a single leaf or shoot, near the top of the plant. It will recover at night, when temperatures are cooler, but as it progresses, the entire plant will wilt and not recover. Watering does not make a difference.
Yellowing Lower leaves will turn yellow, often starting on only one side. As with the wilting, the yellowing will gradually move up the plant.
Dry Leaves The wilted leaves will dry out and fall off.
Discolored Stem If you cut open the stem length-wise you will see dark brown streaks.
Management and Control of Fusarium Wilt of Tomatoes
There is no cure for Fusarium and since it persists in the soil for years, it can be very hard to eradicate. Here are some measures to help you control it.
Resistant Varieties - If you've had problems with Fusarium wilt, you would be wise to stick with resistant varieties. Seed packets and many seedlings will be labeled with their resistance to various diseases. You could also consult a seed catalog for choices.
Sterile Potting Soil - If you are starting your own seedlings, begin with a sterile soilless potting mix.
Raise the Soil pH - Apply lime to the soil in your garden, to bring the pH up into the neutral range of about 6.5 - 7.0.
Control Nematodes - Since root-knot nematodes can lessen resistance to Fusarium wilt, don't let nematode populations build up in your soil.
Don't Cultivate - Avoid injuring plants' roots by not using a hoe or cultivator around your tomato plants. Damaged roots are entry points for the pathogen.
Disinfect Tools - Clean all tools that may have come in contact with infected soil and make it a habit to regularly clean and disinfect your garden tools.
Rotate Your Crops - Since the pathogen can persist in the soil for years, you will have to find another area to plant your tomatoes. A 5 to 7 year rotation is recommended, but that does not guarantee the pathogen will be entirely gone.
It may not kill your tomato plants, but they won't be very productive.
Species of Fusarium can infect many plants including: potatoes, peppers, eggplants, legumes and bananas.
Symptoms of Verticillium wilt can be very similar to Fusarium wilt.
What Causes Fusarium Wilt?
The Fusarium wilt pathogen is soil borne and can remain in infected soil for years. It can also be carried and transmitted in multiple ways, like:
infected seed
seedlings from infected soil
the bottom of shoes
shovels and equipment used in infected soil
infected soil blown into the garden
Ideal conditions for Fusarium wilt include warm, dry weather and acidic soil pH (5.0 - 5.6)
There are tomato varieties that are resistant to fusarium wilt, but if they are weakened by root-knot nematode, they become more susceptible to it.
Plants infected with Fusarium wilt will be stunted and the earlier they are infected, them more severe the stunting.
Keep reading for more photos and descriptions of Fusarium Wilt symptoms and how to control it.
Symptoms of Fusarium Wilt on Tomatoes
Fusarium wilt can sometimes be confused with other wilts, but here are some symptoms to help you identify it in tomatoes:
Wilting The plants will literally wilt. Often it starts with a single leaf or shoot, near the top of the plant. It will recover at night, when temperatures are cooler, but as it progresses, the entire plant will wilt and not recover. Watering does not make a difference.
Yellowing Lower leaves will turn yellow, often starting on only one side. As with the wilting, the yellowing will gradually move up the plant.
Dry Leaves The wilted leaves will dry out and fall off.
Discolored Stem If you cut open the stem length-wise you will see dark brown streaks.
Management and Control of Fusarium Wilt of Tomatoes
There is no cure for Fusarium and since it persists in the soil for years, it can be very hard to eradicate. Here are some measures to help you control it.
Resistant Varieties - If you've had problems with Fusarium wilt, you would be wise to stick with resistant varieties. Seed packets and many seedlings will be labeled with their resistance to various diseases. You could also consult a seed catalog for choices.
Sterile Potting Soil - If you are starting your own seedlings, begin with a sterile soilless potting mix.
Raise the Soil pH - Apply lime to the soil in your garden, to bring the pH up into the neutral range of about 6.5 - 7.0.
Control Nematodes - Since root-knot nematodes can lessen resistance to Fusarium wilt, don't let nematode populations build up in your soil.
Don't Cultivate - Avoid injuring plants' roots by not using a hoe or cultivator around your tomato plants. Damaged roots are entry points for the pathogen.
Disinfect Tools - Clean all tools that may have come in contact with infected soil and make it a habit to regularly clean and disinfect your garden tools.
Rotate Your Crops - Since the pathogen can persist in the soil for years, you will have to find another area to plant your tomatoes. A 5 to 7 year rotation is recommended, but that does not guarantee the pathogen will be entirely gone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Trees growing in the wild rely on the soil to provide the nutrients they need to grow. In a backyard environment, trees and shrubs compete for available nutrients and may require fertilizer to keep them healthy. Arborvitae are narrow-leaf evergreen trees with leaves that look like scales. Different arborvitae species grow into different shapes and sizes, making the tree an excellent choice for hedges of any height or specimen plants. Beloved for their fast growth, arborvitae – especially those planted near other trees or in hedges – often require fertilizer to thrive. It isn’t difficult to begin fertilizing arborvitae. Read on to learn how to fertilize an arborvitae and the type of fertilizer for arborvitae.
Fertilizing Arborvitae
Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae?
If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae?
Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae?
It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
Fertilizing Arborvitae
Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae?
If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae?
Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae?
It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Alder trees (Alnus spp.) are often used in reforestation projects and to stabilize soil in wet areas, but you seldom see them in residential landscapes. Nurseries that cater to home gardeners rarely offer them for sale, but when you can find them, these handsome plants make excellent shade trees and screening shrubs. Alders have several distinctive features that keep them interesting throughout the year.
Alder Tree Identification
The easiest way of recognizing an alder tree is by its distinctive little fruiting body, called a strobile. They appear in fall and look like 1-inch long cones. Strobiles remain on the tree until the following spring, and the small, nutlike seeds they contain supply winter food for birds and small mammals.
The female flowers on an alder tree stand upright at the ends of the twigs, while the male catkins are longer and hang down. The catkins persist into winter. Once the leaves are gone, they add subtle grace and beauty to the tree, softening the appearance of the bare branches. Leaves provide another method of alder tree identification. The egg-shaped leaves have serrated edges and distinct veins. A central vein runs down the center of the leaf and a series of side veins run from the central vein to the outer edge, angled toward the leaf tip. The foliage remains green until it drops from the tree in fall.
Additional Information About Alder Trees
The different types of alder trees include tall trees with single trunks and much shorter, multi-stemmed specimens that can be grown as shrubs. Tree types grow 40 to 80 feet tall and include the red and white alders. You can distinguish these two trees by their leaves. The leaves on a red alder are tightly rolled under along the edges, while those on a white alder are more flat. Sitka and thinleaf alders reach heights of no more than 25 feet. They can be grown as large shrubs or small trees. Both have multiple stems arising from the roots and you can tell them apart by their leaves. Sitkas have very fine serations along the edges of the leaves, while thinleaf alders have coarse teeth.
Alder trees can extract and use nitrogen from the air in the same way that legumes, such as beans and peas, do. Since they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer, they are ideal for areas that aren’t regularly maintained. Alders are well-suited to wet sites, but abundant moisture isn’t necessary for their survival, and they can also thrive in areas that experience occasional mild to moderate drought.
Alder Tree Identification
The easiest way of recognizing an alder tree is by its distinctive little fruiting body, called a strobile. They appear in fall and look like 1-inch long cones. Strobiles remain on the tree until the following spring, and the small, nutlike seeds they contain supply winter food for birds and small mammals.
The female flowers on an alder tree stand upright at the ends of the twigs, while the male catkins are longer and hang down. The catkins persist into winter. Once the leaves are gone, they add subtle grace and beauty to the tree, softening the appearance of the bare branches. Leaves provide another method of alder tree identification. The egg-shaped leaves have serrated edges and distinct veins. A central vein runs down the center of the leaf and a series of side veins run from the central vein to the outer edge, angled toward the leaf tip. The foliage remains green until it drops from the tree in fall.
Additional Information About Alder Trees
The different types of alder trees include tall trees with single trunks and much shorter, multi-stemmed specimens that can be grown as shrubs. Tree types grow 40 to 80 feet tall and include the red and white alders. You can distinguish these two trees by their leaves. The leaves on a red alder are tightly rolled under along the edges, while those on a white alder are more flat. Sitka and thinleaf alders reach heights of no more than 25 feet. They can be grown as large shrubs or small trees. Both have multiple stems arising from the roots and you can tell them apart by their leaves. Sitkas have very fine serations along the edges of the leaves, while thinleaf alders have coarse teeth.
Alder trees can extract and use nitrogen from the air in the same way that legumes, such as beans and peas, do. Since they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer, they are ideal for areas that aren’t regularly maintained. Alders are well-suited to wet sites, but abundant moisture isn’t necessary for their survival, and they can also thrive in areas that experience occasional mild to moderate drought.
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