文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley is one of the most popular and commonly grown herbs with a variety of culinary uses and an ability to thrive in either cool or warm climes. Simply provide the parsley plants with well-drained soil and plenty of irrigation for healthy herbs. But, what’s going on when the parsley has yellow spots on leaves? Keep reading for answers to why parsley plants turn yellow.
Why Does Parsley Turn Yellow?
If your parsley plant suddenly looks peaked, you may be searching for the answer to the question, “Why does parsley turn yellow?” Parsley leaves yellowing may be the result of a number of factors. Let’s take a look at some of the most common:
Leaf spot fungus – A fungal infection called leaf spot may quite possibly be the culprit, resulting in parsley leaves yellowing. Both sides of the leaves are afflicted with yellow specks, which gradually turn dark brown with tiny black pin spots in the center and a yellow outer border. Leaves weaken and wilt and will eventually drop off altogether. Use a fungicide to control the infection, or if severely afflicted, the entire plant may need to be dug up and discarded. Blight – Another reason your parsley plant has yellow spots on leaves may be from blight, with onset symptoms that include brownish patches on the foliage. As this infection progresses, typically the blotching overtakes the leaves, causing the plant to die.
Caused by high humidity conditions, the remedy obviously is to avoid watering the foliage and water at the base of the plant only to reduce humidity levels. Also water in the morning so the plant can dry, and thin the plant to encourage air circulation. Crown or root rot – Yet another possibility for your parsley plant going yellow may be crown rot and root rot. Crown and root rot affect the entire plant, eventually resulting in its demise and is caused by bacteria and fungi in the soil media. Soggy or mushy roots, red blotches on the taproot, reddish discoloration at the root, browning of the roots and stems, sickly leaves and water rings at the stem are all signs of crown and root rot. Again, keep the plant in sunlight and water in the morning so the soil can dry out. Crop rotation may help with the eradication of crown and root rot. Also, this fungus occurs in late winter thaws when dead leaves decompose, harboring bacteria and fungi which are then spread to healthy plants. Treat parsley as an annual and pull in the fall of their first growing season. Stemphylium fungus – Stemphylium vesicarium, a fungus more often found in crops such as garlic, leek, onion, asparagus and alfalfa, has recently been found to afflict parsley herbs with the result of growing parsley turning yellow and dying off. To minimize issues with this disease, space parsley plants apart and water in the morning.
Septoria leaf spot – Septoria leaf spot on tomatoes is also a very common cause of yellowing or yellow to tan to brown lesions with yellow border on parsley leaves. A general garden fungicide should be applied, or if the infection is rampant, remove the plant entirely. A disease resistant variety of parsley should be planted, such as ‘Paramount.’ Spider mites – Finally, spider mites are another culprit that causes the yellowing of parsley foliage. To get rid of spider mites, an insecticide may be applied or predator ants or predator mites may be introduced. To attract the ants, sprinkle some sugar around the base of the plant. Predator mites will need to be purchased at a garden center or nursery. Additionally, the application of neem oil and insecticidal soaps will greatly reduce the spider mite population. Be sure to cover the underside of the leaves.
Why Does Parsley Turn Yellow?
If your parsley plant suddenly looks peaked, you may be searching for the answer to the question, “Why does parsley turn yellow?” Parsley leaves yellowing may be the result of a number of factors. Let’s take a look at some of the most common:
Leaf spot fungus – A fungal infection called leaf spot may quite possibly be the culprit, resulting in parsley leaves yellowing. Both sides of the leaves are afflicted with yellow specks, which gradually turn dark brown with tiny black pin spots in the center and a yellow outer border. Leaves weaken and wilt and will eventually drop off altogether. Use a fungicide to control the infection, or if severely afflicted, the entire plant may need to be dug up and discarded. Blight – Another reason your parsley plant has yellow spots on leaves may be from blight, with onset symptoms that include brownish patches on the foliage. As this infection progresses, typically the blotching overtakes the leaves, causing the plant to die.
Caused by high humidity conditions, the remedy obviously is to avoid watering the foliage and water at the base of the plant only to reduce humidity levels. Also water in the morning so the plant can dry, and thin the plant to encourage air circulation. Crown or root rot – Yet another possibility for your parsley plant going yellow may be crown rot and root rot. Crown and root rot affect the entire plant, eventually resulting in its demise and is caused by bacteria and fungi in the soil media. Soggy or mushy roots, red blotches on the taproot, reddish discoloration at the root, browning of the roots and stems, sickly leaves and water rings at the stem are all signs of crown and root rot. Again, keep the plant in sunlight and water in the morning so the soil can dry out. Crop rotation may help with the eradication of crown and root rot. Also, this fungus occurs in late winter thaws when dead leaves decompose, harboring bacteria and fungi which are then spread to healthy plants. Treat parsley as an annual and pull in the fall of their first growing season. Stemphylium fungus – Stemphylium vesicarium, a fungus more often found in crops such as garlic, leek, onion, asparagus and alfalfa, has recently been found to afflict parsley herbs with the result of growing parsley turning yellow and dying off. To minimize issues with this disease, space parsley plants apart and water in the morning.
Septoria leaf spot – Septoria leaf spot on tomatoes is also a very common cause of yellowing or yellow to tan to brown lesions with yellow border on parsley leaves. A general garden fungicide should be applied, or if the infection is rampant, remove the plant entirely. A disease resistant variety of parsley should be planted, such as ‘Paramount.’ Spider mites – Finally, spider mites are another culprit that causes the yellowing of parsley foliage. To get rid of spider mites, an insecticide may be applied or predator ants or predator mites may be introduced. To attract the ants, sprinkle some sugar around the base of the plant. Predator mites will need to be purchased at a garden center or nursery. Additionally, the application of neem oil and insecticidal soaps will greatly reduce the spider mite population. Be sure to cover the underside of the leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Most herbs are easy to grow in well-drained soil and bright light, and parsley is no exception. This common herb has a rich history of use for flavoring, medicine, ritual purposes and it even freshens your breath after a meal. Wilted parsley plants may represent a water issue or even disease. Refreshing wilted parsley might be as simple as providing water, but be cautious. Too much moisture can have a similar effect and may promote rot, a condition the plant can’t overcome.
Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting
You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions.
If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.
Cultural Care of Parsley Plants
Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.
How to Revive Wilted Parsley
Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn’t drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.
Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting
You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions.
If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.
Cultural Care of Parsley Plants
Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.
How to Revive Wilted Parsley
Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn’t drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Many herb plants come from the Mediterranean and as such are drought, soil and exposure tolerant. Creeping germander is one of those. Germander herb plants are members of the Lamiaceae or Mint family, which includes lavender and salvia. This is a large genus of evergreens, from ground covers to shrubs to sub shrubs. Creeping germander (Teucrium canadense) is a woody, perennial ground cover varietal that spreads through underground rhizomes and reaches to only about 12 to 18 inches tall and spreading 2 feet across. Germander herb plants bloom lavender-hued flowers in the spring borne off of green serrated foliage.
Germander Growing
The adaptable germander ground cover isn’t particularly picky about its location. This herb can be grown in full sun to part shade, in hot climates, or poor and rocky soil. Ideally, however, creeping germander prefers well drained soil (pH of 6.3), although clay will work in a pinch. You can grow these little plants in USDA zones 5-10. Because of its ability to tolerate less than ideal conditions, including drought, creeping germander makes an ideal xeriscape specimen. If you live in a cooler climate, mulch around the plants prior to fall frosts.
How to Use Germander Ground Cover
All of the Teucriums are low maintenance plants and are, therefore, perfect for planting in difficult areas of the garden. They all also react beautifully to pruning and can be shaped easily into borders or low hedges, used in knot gardens or among other herbs or in a rockery. Their easygoing care is just one reason to plant creeping germander; they are deer resistant as well!
Varieties of Low Growing Germanders
Teucrium canadense is just one of several germanders with a creeping habitat. A little easier to find is T. chamaedrys, or wall germander, with a short mounding form up to 1 1/2 feet tall with pinkish purple blooms and oak leaf shaped foliage. Its name derives from the Greek ‘chamai’ for ground and ‘drus’ meaning oak and is indeed a germander found growing wild in Greece and Syria. T.cossoni majoricum, or fruity germander, is a slower growing spreading perennial that is non-invasive with rosy lavender flowers. Flowers are heaviest in the spring but continue to bloom in lesser numbers until fall, which makes the pollinators very happy. Fruity germander has a strong aromatic scent when bruised and does well among rock gardens.
Further Information on Creeping Germander
Germander can be propagated via seed and takes about 30 days to germinate, or you may also use cuttings in the spring and/or divide in the fall. Plants should be spaced 6 inches apart for a hedge with the addition of some organic matter worked into the soil. Spider mite infestations are a hazard and can be eradicated with a stream of water or an insecticidal soap.
Germander Growing
The adaptable germander ground cover isn’t particularly picky about its location. This herb can be grown in full sun to part shade, in hot climates, or poor and rocky soil. Ideally, however, creeping germander prefers well drained soil (pH of 6.3), although clay will work in a pinch. You can grow these little plants in USDA zones 5-10. Because of its ability to tolerate less than ideal conditions, including drought, creeping germander makes an ideal xeriscape specimen. If you live in a cooler climate, mulch around the plants prior to fall frosts.
How to Use Germander Ground Cover
All of the Teucriums are low maintenance plants and are, therefore, perfect for planting in difficult areas of the garden. They all also react beautifully to pruning and can be shaped easily into borders or low hedges, used in knot gardens or among other herbs or in a rockery. Their easygoing care is just one reason to plant creeping germander; they are deer resistant as well!
Varieties of Low Growing Germanders
Teucrium canadense is just one of several germanders with a creeping habitat. A little easier to find is T. chamaedrys, or wall germander, with a short mounding form up to 1 1/2 feet tall with pinkish purple blooms and oak leaf shaped foliage. Its name derives from the Greek ‘chamai’ for ground and ‘drus’ meaning oak and is indeed a germander found growing wild in Greece and Syria. T.cossoni majoricum, or fruity germander, is a slower growing spreading perennial that is non-invasive with rosy lavender flowers. Flowers are heaviest in the spring but continue to bloom in lesser numbers until fall, which makes the pollinators very happy. Fruity germander has a strong aromatic scent when bruised and does well among rock gardens.
Further Information on Creeping Germander
Germander can be propagated via seed and takes about 30 days to germinate, or you may also use cuttings in the spring and/or divide in the fall. Plants should be spaced 6 inches apart for a hedge with the addition of some organic matter worked into the soil. Spider mite infestations are a hazard and can be eradicated with a stream of water or an insecticidal soap.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Any gardener will tell you that you can’t go wrong with composting. Whether you want to add nutrients, break up dense soil, introduce beneficial microbes, or all three, compost is the perfect choice. But not all compost is the same. Many gardeners will tell you that the best stuff you can get is cotton burr compost. Keep reading to learn more about how to use cotton burr compost in your garden.
What is Cotton Burr Compost?
What is cotton burr compost? Usually, when cotton is harvested, the plant is run through a gin. This separates the good stuff (the cotton fiber) from the leftovers (the seeds, stems, and leaves). This leftover stuff is called cotton burr.
For a long time, cotton farmers didn’t know what to do with the leftover burr, and they often just burned it. Eventually, though, it became clear that it could be made into incredible compost. The benefits of cotton burr compost are great for a few reasons. Mainly, cotton plants famously use up a lot of nutrients. This means those beneficial minerals and nutrients are sucked out of the soil and up into the plant. Compost the plant and you’ll get all those nutrients back. It’s very good for breaking up heavy clay soil because it’s coarser than some other composts, like manure, and easier to wet than peat moss. It’s also full of beneficial microbes and bacteria, unlike some other varieties.
How to Use Cotton Burr Compost in Gardens
Using cotton burr compost in gardens is both easy to do and excellent for plants. If you want to add it to your soil before planting, simply mix in 2 to 3 inches of compost with your topsoil. Cotton burr compost has so many nutrients that you may not have to add more for two growing seasons. Many gardeners also use cotton burr compost as mulch. To do this, simply lay down an inch of compost around your plants. Water thoroughly and lay down a layer of woodchips or other heavy mulch on top to keep it from blowing away.
What is Cotton Burr Compost?
What is cotton burr compost? Usually, when cotton is harvested, the plant is run through a gin. This separates the good stuff (the cotton fiber) from the leftovers (the seeds, stems, and leaves). This leftover stuff is called cotton burr.
For a long time, cotton farmers didn’t know what to do with the leftover burr, and they often just burned it. Eventually, though, it became clear that it could be made into incredible compost. The benefits of cotton burr compost are great for a few reasons. Mainly, cotton plants famously use up a lot of nutrients. This means those beneficial minerals and nutrients are sucked out of the soil and up into the plant. Compost the plant and you’ll get all those nutrients back. It’s very good for breaking up heavy clay soil because it’s coarser than some other composts, like manure, and easier to wet than peat moss. It’s also full of beneficial microbes and bacteria, unlike some other varieties.
How to Use Cotton Burr Compost in Gardens
Using cotton burr compost in gardens is both easy to do and excellent for plants. If you want to add it to your soil before planting, simply mix in 2 to 3 inches of compost with your topsoil. Cotton burr compost has so many nutrients that you may not have to add more for two growing seasons. Many gardeners also use cotton burr compost as mulch. To do this, simply lay down an inch of compost around your plants. Water thoroughly and lay down a layer of woodchips or other heavy mulch on top to keep it from blowing away.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Rosemary is a great plant to have around. It’s fragrant, it’s useful in all kinds of recipes, and it’s quite tough. It likes full sun and well-drained soil. It can only survive down to 20 F. (-6 C.), so in cool climates, it’s best grown as a container plant. In mild climates, however, it makes a great shrub in outdoor beds, where it blooms spectacularly in the winter. One very good variety for colorful blooms is the Tuscan blue. Keep reading to learn more about growing Tuscan blue rosemary and how to care for Tuscan blue rosemary plants.
Growing Tuscan Blue Rosemary
All varieties of rosemary bloom with delicate flowers. The color of the flowers can vary from type to type, ranging from shades of pink to blue to white. Tuscan blue rosemary plants (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Tuscan Blue’), true to their name, produce deep blue to violet flowers. The plant should bloom from winter to spring. Flowers may come back again for a smaller showing in summer or autumn.
How To Grow Tuscan Blue Rosemary Plants
Tuscan blue rosemary care is relatively easy. Tuscan blue rosemary plants grow in a more upright pattern than many other rosemary varieties. They can grow up to 7 feet tall and 2 feet wide. If you want to keep your plant more compact, you can prune it back heavily (by as much as ½) in the spring, after it has finished blooming.
Tuscan blue rosemary hardiness is a little better than that of other rosemary varieties. It should be able to survive down to about 15 F. (-9 C.), or USDA zone 8. If you live in a colder climate than that, you may be able to overwinter your Tuscan blue rosemary by heavily mulching it in the fall and planting it in a spot that’s sheltered from the wind but still receives full sun.
If you want to be sure your rosemary survives the winter, you should grow it as a container plant and bring it indoors for the cold months.
Growing Tuscan Blue Rosemary
All varieties of rosemary bloom with delicate flowers. The color of the flowers can vary from type to type, ranging from shades of pink to blue to white. Tuscan blue rosemary plants (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Tuscan Blue’), true to their name, produce deep blue to violet flowers. The plant should bloom from winter to spring. Flowers may come back again for a smaller showing in summer or autumn.
How To Grow Tuscan Blue Rosemary Plants
Tuscan blue rosemary care is relatively easy. Tuscan blue rosemary plants grow in a more upright pattern than many other rosemary varieties. They can grow up to 7 feet tall and 2 feet wide. If you want to keep your plant more compact, you can prune it back heavily (by as much as ½) in the spring, after it has finished blooming.
Tuscan blue rosemary hardiness is a little better than that of other rosemary varieties. It should be able to survive down to about 15 F. (-9 C.), or USDA zone 8. If you live in a colder climate than that, you may be able to overwinter your Tuscan blue rosemary by heavily mulching it in the fall and planting it in a spot that’s sheltered from the wind but still receives full sun.
If you want to be sure your rosemary survives the winter, you should grow it as a container plant and bring it indoors for the cold months.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Plantains are unsightly lawn weeds that thrive in compacted soil and neglected lawns. Plantain weed treatment consists of diligently digging out the plants as they appear and treating the plants with herbicides. Since weed plantain thrives in poorly established lawns, the best prevention is a healthy lawn. Keep reading to learn more about plantain control.
Broadleaf and Narrow Leaf Plantains
The two types of plantains that are commonly found in lawns are broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) and narrow-leaf, or buckhorn plant (P. lanceolata). These two perennial weeds are easily differentiated by their leaves. Broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves while buckhorn plantain has ribbed, lance-shaped leaves. Both types are found throughout the U.S. where they thrive in compacted soil.
Preventing Plantain Lawn Weeds
The best way to prevent plantains in the lawn is to keep the soil aerated and healthy. Aerate compacted soil and follow a regular schedule of fertilization at least twice a year. Water the lawn deeply when there is less than an inch of rainfall in a week. A healthy lawn crowds out plantains, but the plantains crowd out the grass when the lawn is in poor condition. Plantain weeds also contaminate mowers and other equipment used on the lawn. Clean your equipment thoroughly before using it again to prevent the spread of planting lawn weeds.
Plantain Weed Treatment
Plantain control can be achieved by pulling or digging the plants as they emerge when the infested area is small. This is easiest in sandy soil or soil that has been softened by rain or irrigation. You may have to dig and pull the plants in the area several times before achieving complete control. The weeds must be removed before they have a chance to produce seeds. When large numbers of the weeds are present, plantain lawn weeds are best controlled with herbicides. Choose a post-emergent herbicide labeled for plantain control. Post-emergent herbicides are most effective against plantains in fall when the plants are moving carbohydrates to the roots for winter storage. You can also apply the herbicides in spring. Carefully follow the label instructions regarding mixing, timing and application procedures. Avoid spraying when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.) and on windy days. Store any unused portions of the herbicide in the original container and out of the reach of children.
Broadleaf and Narrow Leaf Plantains
The two types of plantains that are commonly found in lawns are broadleaf plantain (Plantago major) and narrow-leaf, or buckhorn plant (P. lanceolata). These two perennial weeds are easily differentiated by their leaves. Broadleaf plantains have smooth, oval leaves while buckhorn plantain has ribbed, lance-shaped leaves. Both types are found throughout the U.S. where they thrive in compacted soil.
Preventing Plantain Lawn Weeds
The best way to prevent plantains in the lawn is to keep the soil aerated and healthy. Aerate compacted soil and follow a regular schedule of fertilization at least twice a year. Water the lawn deeply when there is less than an inch of rainfall in a week. A healthy lawn crowds out plantains, but the plantains crowd out the grass when the lawn is in poor condition. Plantain weeds also contaminate mowers and other equipment used on the lawn. Clean your equipment thoroughly before using it again to prevent the spread of planting lawn weeds.
Plantain Weed Treatment
Plantain control can be achieved by pulling or digging the plants as they emerge when the infested area is small. This is easiest in sandy soil or soil that has been softened by rain or irrigation. You may have to dig and pull the plants in the area several times before achieving complete control. The weeds must be removed before they have a chance to produce seeds. When large numbers of the weeds are present, plantain lawn weeds are best controlled with herbicides. Choose a post-emergent herbicide labeled for plantain control. Post-emergent herbicides are most effective against plantains in fall when the plants are moving carbohydrates to the roots for winter storage. You can also apply the herbicides in spring. Carefully follow the label instructions regarding mixing, timing and application procedures. Avoid spraying when temperatures are above 85 degrees F. (29 C.) and on windy days. Store any unused portions of the herbicide in the original container and out of the reach of children.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
With dozens of uses in the kitchen, oregano is an essential plant for culinary herb gardens. This Mediterranean herb is easy to grow in the right location. Plant it in full sun in an area with good air circulation and well-drained soil to keep oregano problems to a minimum.
Oregano Disease Problems
Diseases affecting oregano plants are primarily caused by fungi. Fungi thrive in moist conditions where the air doesn’t circulate well enough to keep the foliage dry. Pruning plants will open them up for better air circulation, and spacing them according to the plant tag solves some oregano problems. If your soil doesn’t drain well, grow oregano in a raised bed or in containers.
The fungi that cause oregano disease problems often result in rotting leaves or roots. If older leaves in the center of the plant begin to rot, the plant is probably infected with botrytis rot. There is no cure for this; therefore, you should remove and destroy the plant to prevent spreading of the disease. Gradual wilting may be a sign of rhizoctonia root rot. Examine the base of the stems and the roots for brownish or black discoloration. If you see these symptoms, destroy the plant and don’t grow oregano in the same location for at least three years. Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes causes oregano problems. Rust causes circular spots on the foliage, and if caught early enough, you may be able to save the plant by pruning off the affected parts. Destroy diseased plants by burning them or bagging and discarding them. Never compost plants with fungal diseases.
Oregano Pests
While oregano pests are few, they should still be mentioned as inclusion for common oregano problems. Aphids and spider mites sometimes infest oregano plants. You can control mild infestations with a strong spray of water from a hose every other day until the insects are gone. Once knocked off the plant, these insects are unable to return. For stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. These insecticides must come into direct contact to kill the insect, so spray the plant thoroughly, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
Leaf miners are the larvae of black flies. These tiny, wormlike larvae feed inside oregano leaves, leaving meandering tan or brown trails. Insecticides can’t reach leaf miner larvae inside the leaves, so the only treatment is to pick off and destroy affected leaves before the larvae mature. Don’t let the few diseases affecting oregano plants or oregano pests put you off in growing this herb. With proper care, these oregano problems can be prevented and you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest.
Oregano Disease Problems
Diseases affecting oregano plants are primarily caused by fungi. Fungi thrive in moist conditions where the air doesn’t circulate well enough to keep the foliage dry. Pruning plants will open them up for better air circulation, and spacing them according to the plant tag solves some oregano problems. If your soil doesn’t drain well, grow oregano in a raised bed or in containers.
The fungi that cause oregano disease problems often result in rotting leaves or roots. If older leaves in the center of the plant begin to rot, the plant is probably infected with botrytis rot. There is no cure for this; therefore, you should remove and destroy the plant to prevent spreading of the disease. Gradual wilting may be a sign of rhizoctonia root rot. Examine the base of the stems and the roots for brownish or black discoloration. If you see these symptoms, destroy the plant and don’t grow oregano in the same location for at least three years. Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes causes oregano problems. Rust causes circular spots on the foliage, and if caught early enough, you may be able to save the plant by pruning off the affected parts. Destroy diseased plants by burning them or bagging and discarding them. Never compost plants with fungal diseases.
Oregano Pests
While oregano pests are few, they should still be mentioned as inclusion for common oregano problems. Aphids and spider mites sometimes infest oregano plants. You can control mild infestations with a strong spray of water from a hose every other day until the insects are gone. Once knocked off the plant, these insects are unable to return. For stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. These insecticides must come into direct contact to kill the insect, so spray the plant thoroughly, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
Leaf miners are the larvae of black flies. These tiny, wormlike larvae feed inside oregano leaves, leaving meandering tan or brown trails. Insecticides can’t reach leaf miner larvae inside the leaves, so the only treatment is to pick off and destroy affected leaves before the larvae mature. Don’t let the few diseases affecting oregano plants or oregano pests put you off in growing this herb. With proper care, these oregano problems can be prevented and you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Companion planting is based on the idea that some plants perform better if they are located near a strategic plant partner. This partner may attract beneficial insects, improve soil quality, or even share root space in a mutually beneficial manner. Read on to learn about borage and companion planting.
Plants That Grow Well with Borage
Using borage (Borago officinalis) as a companion plant is good choice. Plants that grow well with borage include:
Tomatoes
Cabbage
Squash
Strawberries
The borage companion plant is said to repel tomato worms and cabbage worms because borage attracts beneficial insects, such as bees and tiny wasps. As we know these are great plant pollinators, but they also repel garden pests. Additionally, borage works well in the garden alongside many types of herbs and flowers. So bring on the borage as a companion plant!
Companion Planting with Borage
Companion planting with borage is a rich subject. Borage has a reputation for improving the flavor and growth of strawberries. This may be due to the fact that it adds trace minerals to the soil. Borage leaves are known to contain potassium, calcium and Vitamin C. Because borage leaves are rich in minerals and vitamins, the leaves make nice mulch for almost any vegetable. Use the older, larger, fading leaves for this purpose. Borage plant material is also a rich contributor of nutrients and bulk for your compost bin. Buy borage seeds to start your companion planting endeavor. The seeds germinate quite easily. You can also buy borage seedlings at your local nurseries or sometimes at farmers’ markets. Please note that borage reseeds itself vigorously. If borage pops up in places you don’t want, they are very easy to weed out of your planting beds.
Borage leaves are coarse, thick and hairy. The flowers are the star of the show with this plant. Tiny little lavender or blue colored star-shaped flowers bloom on and on throughout the growing season. In mild climates, borage sometimes blossoms throughout the winter. The borage companion plant takes sun or part shade and prefers moist soil. Borage flowers and immature borage leaves are edible. The flowers are a tiny bit spicy and very pretty in salads, iced lemonade, or stir-fry (add at the very end). Note of caution: Pregnant and nursing women should not eat borage. It isn’t good for their health or the health of their babies.
Plants That Grow Well with Borage
Using borage (Borago officinalis) as a companion plant is good choice. Plants that grow well with borage include:
Tomatoes
Cabbage
Squash
Strawberries
The borage companion plant is said to repel tomato worms and cabbage worms because borage attracts beneficial insects, such as bees and tiny wasps. As we know these are great plant pollinators, but they also repel garden pests. Additionally, borage works well in the garden alongside many types of herbs and flowers. So bring on the borage as a companion plant!
Companion Planting with Borage
Companion planting with borage is a rich subject. Borage has a reputation for improving the flavor and growth of strawberries. This may be due to the fact that it adds trace minerals to the soil. Borage leaves are known to contain potassium, calcium and Vitamin C. Because borage leaves are rich in minerals and vitamins, the leaves make nice mulch for almost any vegetable. Use the older, larger, fading leaves for this purpose. Borage plant material is also a rich contributor of nutrients and bulk for your compost bin. Buy borage seeds to start your companion planting endeavor. The seeds germinate quite easily. You can also buy borage seedlings at your local nurseries or sometimes at farmers’ markets. Please note that borage reseeds itself vigorously. If borage pops up in places you don’t want, they are very easy to weed out of your planting beds.
Borage leaves are coarse, thick and hairy. The flowers are the star of the show with this plant. Tiny little lavender or blue colored star-shaped flowers bloom on and on throughout the growing season. In mild climates, borage sometimes blossoms throughout the winter. The borage companion plant takes sun or part shade and prefers moist soil. Borage flowers and immature borage leaves are edible. The flowers are a tiny bit spicy and very pretty in salads, iced lemonade, or stir-fry (add at the very end). Note of caution: Pregnant and nursing women should not eat borage. It isn’t good for their health or the health of their babies.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Most herbs thrive in sunny Mediterranean-like conditions in well-draining soil. Certainly one of the most popular herbs, basil is a tender annual in most cases. With that thought in mind, at the end of season basil harvest, can you keep the basil through winter?
Will Basil Die Over Winter?
As previously mentioned, basil is an annual in most cases. Specifically, sweet basil, the popular variety of basil grown for use in the most sublime pesto sauces, is an annual. There are a couple of other varieties of basil that are hardier and tend towards a perennial life cycle.
Generally, the end of summer or first part of fall heralds the end of season basil harvest, but is there a way to extend basil’s life at the end of the season? You can try to keep basil through the winter. However, sweet basil is meant to live its life cycle within one year and thereafter go to seed. At the end of the season, though, you can try to keep it alive by moving potted basil indoors. Unless you are moving and growing the herb in a greenhouse, the hot temperatures and direct sunlight that basil thrives in are not usually found in the average person’s home, so be sure to provide as much light as possible; artificial lighting for 10-12 hours a day during the darker winter months. Even so, the plant may linger for a time, but it will succumb at some point. With this knowledge, it is best to be prepared to either purchase another plant or start your own from seed in the spring.
Basil Care After Season
Since basil’s sweet, fresh flavor is fleeting, it’s wise to have a game plan for basil care after season. That is, how are you going to utilize all that fresh basil while it’s at its peak and at the final harvest? Basil is best used fresh. That said, it is also pungent when dried. Using a dehydrator or simply preserving the foliage by air drying in a warm, dry well ventilated room for a week or so is a great way to extend the life of this herb. Once the herb has dried, remove the leaves from the stems and store the leaves either whole or ground in an airtight container away from heat and bright light. Stored in this manner, dried basil will keep for one year. A better method for storing and utilizing fresh basil leaves is by freezing the herb. Freezing basil allows you to keep the brilliant green color which complements food so beautifully, while drying the herb turns it to an unpleasant brown. Freezing your basil also results in a flavor more akin to fresh. You can freeze entire leaves in small batches in small plastic bags or chop them and place them in an ice cube tray with a bit of water. Or, mix the chopped basil with a bit of olive oil and then freeze in ice cube trays.
Once frozen, remove the cubes of basil and store in airtight containers in the freezer for future use. You can also make some fabulous pesto sauce and freeze it in batches. Frozen basil will last the same as dried, about one year. However, if you decide to store your basil for the post harvest season, do it! I miss the fresh aroma and tender flavor of fresh picked basil during the winter. There really is nothing like it, and I pine for spring when I can cultivate it again.
Will Basil Die Over Winter?
As previously mentioned, basil is an annual in most cases. Specifically, sweet basil, the popular variety of basil grown for use in the most sublime pesto sauces, is an annual. There are a couple of other varieties of basil that are hardier and tend towards a perennial life cycle.
Generally, the end of summer or first part of fall heralds the end of season basil harvest, but is there a way to extend basil’s life at the end of the season? You can try to keep basil through the winter. However, sweet basil is meant to live its life cycle within one year and thereafter go to seed. At the end of the season, though, you can try to keep it alive by moving potted basil indoors. Unless you are moving and growing the herb in a greenhouse, the hot temperatures and direct sunlight that basil thrives in are not usually found in the average person’s home, so be sure to provide as much light as possible; artificial lighting for 10-12 hours a day during the darker winter months. Even so, the plant may linger for a time, but it will succumb at some point. With this knowledge, it is best to be prepared to either purchase another plant or start your own from seed in the spring.
Basil Care After Season
Since basil’s sweet, fresh flavor is fleeting, it’s wise to have a game plan for basil care after season. That is, how are you going to utilize all that fresh basil while it’s at its peak and at the final harvest? Basil is best used fresh. That said, it is also pungent when dried. Using a dehydrator or simply preserving the foliage by air drying in a warm, dry well ventilated room for a week or so is a great way to extend the life of this herb. Once the herb has dried, remove the leaves from the stems and store the leaves either whole or ground in an airtight container away from heat and bright light. Stored in this manner, dried basil will keep for one year. A better method for storing and utilizing fresh basil leaves is by freezing the herb. Freezing basil allows you to keep the brilliant green color which complements food so beautifully, while drying the herb turns it to an unpleasant brown. Freezing your basil also results in a flavor more akin to fresh. You can freeze entire leaves in small batches in small plastic bags or chop them and place them in an ice cube tray with a bit of water. Or, mix the chopped basil with a bit of olive oil and then freeze in ice cube trays.
Once frozen, remove the cubes of basil and store in airtight containers in the freezer for future use. You can also make some fabulous pesto sauce and freeze it in batches. Frozen basil will last the same as dried, about one year. However, if you decide to store your basil for the post harvest season, do it! I miss the fresh aroma and tender flavor of fresh picked basil during the winter. There really is nothing like it, and I pine for spring when I can cultivate it again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Carnivorous plants are endlessly fascinating. One such plant, the Venus flytrap, or Dionaea muscipula, is native to boggy areas of North and South Carolina. While the flytrap photosynthesizes and garners nutrients from the soil just as other plants, the fact is that boggy soil is less than nutritious. For this reason, the Venus flytrap has adapted to ingesting insects to round out its need for nutrients. If you are lucky enough to have one of these charmingly strange plants, you may have encountered some Venus flytrap problems – namely getting a Venus flytrap to close.
My Venus Flytrap Won’t Close
Probably the biggest reason your Venus flytrap does not snap shut is because it’s exhausted, sort of. The leaves of the flytrap have short, stiff cilia or trigger hairs. When something touches these hairs enough to bend them, the dual lobes of the leaves close, effectively trapping the “something” inside in less than a second.
There is a lifespan for these leaves, however. Ten to twelve times of snapping shut and they cease to function as trapping leaves and remain open, functioning as photosynthesizers. Chances are good that a store bought plant has already been jostled in transit and played with by any number of potential buyers and are just plain done. You will have to wait patiently for new traps to grow. It is also possible that the reason your Venus flytrap doesn’t snap shut is because it’s dying. Blackening leaves may signal this and are caused by bacteria, which may infect the trap if it hasn’t completely closed when feeding, as when an overly large bug is caught and it can’t shut tightly. A complete seal of the trap is needed to keep the digestive juices in and bacteria out. A dead plant will be brown-black, mushy, and have a rotting odor.
Getting a Venus Flytrap to Close
If you feed your Venus flytrap a dead insect, it will not struggle and signal the cilia to close. You have to manipulate the trap gently to simulate a live insect and allow the trap to snap shut. The trap then secretes digestive juices, dissolving the soft innards of the bug. After five to 12 days, the digestive process is completed, the trap opens and the exoskeleton is blown away or washed out with the rain. Getting your flytrap to close may be a matter of temperature regulation. Venus flytraps are sensitive to the cold which will cause the traps to close very slowly.
Keep in mind that the hairs on the traps or lamina have to be stimulated for the trap to shut. At least one hair must be touched twice or several hairs in rapid succession as when an insect is struggling. The plant can distinguish between a living insect and say, raindrops, and will not close for the latter. Lastly, like most plants, the Venus flytrap lies dormant during the fall through to the following spring. During this time period, the trap is in hibernation and has no need for additional nutrition; hence, the traps do not respond to stimulus. Overall green color in the leaves indicates the plant is simply resting and fasting and not dead.
My Venus Flytrap Won’t Close
Probably the biggest reason your Venus flytrap does not snap shut is because it’s exhausted, sort of. The leaves of the flytrap have short, stiff cilia or trigger hairs. When something touches these hairs enough to bend them, the dual lobes of the leaves close, effectively trapping the “something” inside in less than a second.
There is a lifespan for these leaves, however. Ten to twelve times of snapping shut and they cease to function as trapping leaves and remain open, functioning as photosynthesizers. Chances are good that a store bought plant has already been jostled in transit and played with by any number of potential buyers and are just plain done. You will have to wait patiently for new traps to grow. It is also possible that the reason your Venus flytrap doesn’t snap shut is because it’s dying. Blackening leaves may signal this and are caused by bacteria, which may infect the trap if it hasn’t completely closed when feeding, as when an overly large bug is caught and it can’t shut tightly. A complete seal of the trap is needed to keep the digestive juices in and bacteria out. A dead plant will be brown-black, mushy, and have a rotting odor.
Getting a Venus Flytrap to Close
If you feed your Venus flytrap a dead insect, it will not struggle and signal the cilia to close. You have to manipulate the trap gently to simulate a live insect and allow the trap to snap shut. The trap then secretes digestive juices, dissolving the soft innards of the bug. After five to 12 days, the digestive process is completed, the trap opens and the exoskeleton is blown away or washed out with the rain. Getting your flytrap to close may be a matter of temperature regulation. Venus flytraps are sensitive to the cold which will cause the traps to close very slowly.
Keep in mind that the hairs on the traps or lamina have to be stimulated for the trap to shut. At least one hair must be touched twice or several hairs in rapid succession as when an insect is struggling. The plant can distinguish between a living insect and say, raindrops, and will not close for the latter. Lastly, like most plants, the Venus flytrap lies dormant during the fall through to the following spring. During this time period, the trap is in hibernation and has no need for additional nutrition; hence, the traps do not respond to stimulus. Overall green color in the leaves indicates the plant is simply resting and fasting and not dead.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Fungus gnats on spider plants are definitely an annoyance, but the pests, also known as soil gnats or dark-winged fungus gnats, typically cause little damage to indoor plants. However, if you’re tired of spider plant fungus gnats terrorizing your prized plant, help is on the way.
Do Fungus Gnats Harm Spider Plants?
Fungus gnats are attracted to spider plants and other indoor plants because they like organic soil and warm, humid conditions. Fungus gnats are nuisances but they generally don’t harm plants. However, certain species of fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil, where the larvae feed on the roots or, in some cases, may even burrow into the leaves and stems. This is when some type of fungus gnat control is needed, as the larvae can be harmful in large numbers, and may damage plants or stunt plant growth. Young plants, as well as seedlings or newly propagated cuttings are most susceptible. An adult fungus gnat lives only a few days, but a female can lay up to 200 eggs during her short lifespan. Larvae hatch in about four days and feed for a couple of weeks before pupating. After another three of four days, they emerge as the next generation of flying spider plant gnats.
Fungus Gnat Control on Spider Plants
If you are looking for ways to control annoying soil gnats in your spider plants, the following tips should help: Move infested plants away from healthy plants. Be careful not to overwater, as fungal gnats like to lay eggs in damp potting mix. If your spider plant is infested, allow the top 2 to 3 inches to dry. Always pour out any standing water remaining in the drainage tray. Repot a severely infested spider plant into a clean container with fresh potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole. Yellow sticky traps are an effective way to catch adult fungus gnats before they have an opportunity to lay eggs. Cut the traps into small squares and attach the squares to wooden or plastic sticks, then insert the sticks into the soil. Change the traps every few days.
Apply B-ti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). The bacterial insecticide, which is different from regular Bt, is available in products such as Gnatrol or Mosquito Bits. Control is temporary and you may need to reapply B-ti every five days or so. Some people find that homemade solutions are effective for fungus gnats on spider plants. For example, fill small jars halfway with vinegar and a drop or two of liquid dish soap, then poke several holes in the lid (large enough for adult flies to enter). The flies, attracted to the vinegar, fly into the trap and drown. You can also place several slices of raw potatoes on the soil surface. Lift the slices after about four hours to check for larvae. This solution is probably most effective when used in conjunction with other fungus gnat control techniques. If all else fails, Apply a pyrethrin insecticide to the soil surface. Although pyrethrin is a lower toxicity product, it’s still important to use and store the insecticide strictly according to label recommendations. It’s a good idea to apply the insecticide outdoors, then wait a day before bringing the spider plant back inside.
Do Fungus Gnats Harm Spider Plants?
Fungus gnats are attracted to spider plants and other indoor plants because they like organic soil and warm, humid conditions. Fungus gnats are nuisances but they generally don’t harm plants. However, certain species of fungus gnats lay eggs in the soil, where the larvae feed on the roots or, in some cases, may even burrow into the leaves and stems. This is when some type of fungus gnat control is needed, as the larvae can be harmful in large numbers, and may damage plants or stunt plant growth. Young plants, as well as seedlings or newly propagated cuttings are most susceptible. An adult fungus gnat lives only a few days, but a female can lay up to 200 eggs during her short lifespan. Larvae hatch in about four days and feed for a couple of weeks before pupating. After another three of four days, they emerge as the next generation of flying spider plant gnats.
Fungus Gnat Control on Spider Plants
If you are looking for ways to control annoying soil gnats in your spider plants, the following tips should help: Move infested plants away from healthy plants. Be careful not to overwater, as fungal gnats like to lay eggs in damp potting mix. If your spider plant is infested, allow the top 2 to 3 inches to dry. Always pour out any standing water remaining in the drainage tray. Repot a severely infested spider plant into a clean container with fresh potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole. Yellow sticky traps are an effective way to catch adult fungus gnats before they have an opportunity to lay eggs. Cut the traps into small squares and attach the squares to wooden or plastic sticks, then insert the sticks into the soil. Change the traps every few days.
Apply B-ti (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis). The bacterial insecticide, which is different from regular Bt, is available in products such as Gnatrol or Mosquito Bits. Control is temporary and you may need to reapply B-ti every five days or so. Some people find that homemade solutions are effective for fungus gnats on spider plants. For example, fill small jars halfway with vinegar and a drop or two of liquid dish soap, then poke several holes in the lid (large enough for adult flies to enter). The flies, attracted to the vinegar, fly into the trap and drown. You can also place several slices of raw potatoes on the soil surface. Lift the slices after about four hours to check for larvae. This solution is probably most effective when used in conjunction with other fungus gnat control techniques. If all else fails, Apply a pyrethrin insecticide to the soil surface. Although pyrethrin is a lower toxicity product, it’s still important to use and store the insecticide strictly according to label recommendations. It’s a good idea to apply the insecticide outdoors, then wait a day before bringing the spider plant back inside.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants form from thick tubers with a tangled root mass. They are native to tropical South Africa where they thrive in hot conditions. A spider plant with swollen roots may be pot bound, require more soil or showing evidence of a strange adaptation found in these and many other plants. A quick repotting should determine which the case is. As long as the tubers and roots are healthy, the plant is in no danger and will thrive.
Yes, a Spider Plant Has Tubers
Spider plants are old-fashioned indoor plants in the lily family, Liliaceae. These plants have been handed down from generation to generation and are important heritage plants to many families. The spiderettes that form on the ends of the spider plant stolons can be divided away and started as new plants. Thick roots will form quickly on the spiderettes, even if they are taken from the mother. However, a mature spider plant with swollen roots may also indicate a unique storage organ has formed on your plant.
Spider plants form dense, fleshy clusters of tubers. These are the source of the shoots and leaves and are companions of the root system. Tubers are white, smooth, twisting masses which may push to the surface of the soil. If most of the tuber mass is under the soil, one or two visible tubers shouldn’t cause the plant any harm.
When a spider plant has tubers in numbers that are highly visible, it may be time for a new pot or simply a topping of good soil. Over time, watering can flush some of the soil from the container making the level low. When repotting, wash the thick spider plant roots gently before nestling them into the soil.
The spiderettes on the ends of spider plant stolons will form fat, roots. This is natural and, in the wild, the babies would simply root a bit away from the mother. In this way, the plant spreads vegetatively. Sometimes, stressed plants can form tuber-like water storage organs. This is a natural adaptation and useful in their native region.
Other organs which appear to be tubers are the fruit. It is very unusual for a spider plant to flower and even more unusual for them to produce fruit, as it is usually aborted. If the plant produces fruit, it will appear as leather, 3-lobed capsules.
Are Spider Plant Roots Edible?
Spider plants are in the lily family and closely related to daylilies, whose roots are edible. Are spider plant roots edible? There seems to be some evidence that the tubers are not toxic but can cause problems in small animals in large doses. Of course, almost anything can be toxic in huge amounts as compared to body size. It’s probably wise to leave the tubers untouched and enjoy the plant, but if you are wildly curious, check with your local poison control center to verify that the plant is not on the list of concerns. The beauty of the plant will endure more surely if you leave those thick spider plant roots and tubers alone.
Yes, a Spider Plant Has Tubers
Spider plants are old-fashioned indoor plants in the lily family, Liliaceae. These plants have been handed down from generation to generation and are important heritage plants to many families. The spiderettes that form on the ends of the spider plant stolons can be divided away and started as new plants. Thick roots will form quickly on the spiderettes, even if they are taken from the mother. However, a mature spider plant with swollen roots may also indicate a unique storage organ has formed on your plant.
Spider plants form dense, fleshy clusters of tubers. These are the source of the shoots and leaves and are companions of the root system. Tubers are white, smooth, twisting masses which may push to the surface of the soil. If most of the tuber mass is under the soil, one or two visible tubers shouldn’t cause the plant any harm.
When a spider plant has tubers in numbers that are highly visible, it may be time for a new pot or simply a topping of good soil. Over time, watering can flush some of the soil from the container making the level low. When repotting, wash the thick spider plant roots gently before nestling them into the soil.
The spiderettes on the ends of spider plant stolons will form fat, roots. This is natural and, in the wild, the babies would simply root a bit away from the mother. In this way, the plant spreads vegetatively. Sometimes, stressed plants can form tuber-like water storage organs. This is a natural adaptation and useful in their native region.
Other organs which appear to be tubers are the fruit. It is very unusual for a spider plant to flower and even more unusual for them to produce fruit, as it is usually aborted. If the plant produces fruit, it will appear as leather, 3-lobed capsules.
Are Spider Plant Roots Edible?
Spider plants are in the lily family and closely related to daylilies, whose roots are edible. Are spider plant roots edible? There seems to be some evidence that the tubers are not toxic but can cause problems in small animals in large doses. Of course, almost anything can be toxic in huge amounts as compared to body size. It’s probably wise to leave the tubers untouched and enjoy the plant, but if you are wildly curious, check with your local poison control center to verify that the plant is not on the list of concerns. The beauty of the plant will endure more surely if you leave those thick spider plant roots and tubers alone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Spider plants are very popular houseplants, and for good reason. They’re very hardy, growing best in indirect light with soil that’s allowed to dry out between waterings. In other words, they work well indoors with only moderate watering. And in exchange for little maintenance, they produce long green fronds and small plantlets or “babies,” little versions of themselves that hang down like spiders on silk. Because they require so little care and have such an interesting look, spider plant problems can be a real blow. Keep reading to learn more about caring for sick spider plants.
How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant
Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.
In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.
When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.
How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant
Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.
In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.
When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.
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