文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lucky bamboo isn’t actually bamboo at all, although it resembles the kind pandas eat in China. This popular houseplant is a member of the Dracaena family, oftentimes grown in water, and sometimes soil, and is said to bring good fortune to the household. Rotting lucky bamboo plants seem a decided sign of ill fortune. But preventing rot in lucky bamboo is not too difficult if you are attentive to the plant and act quickly when you see a problem with the plant’s roots. Read on to learn how to keep a lucky bamboo from rotting, especially when it’s grown in water.
Rotting Lucky Bamboo Plants
The lucky bamboo is a little green plant with one or more slender stems that grow roots on the lower end and leaves on the upper end. These are the plants sold in clear vases filled with water and pretty rocks, so that you can watch the roots grow. The key to keeping a lucky bamboo from rotting is to provide enough water, but not too much. All the plant’s roots should be below the lip of the glass container and in water. Most of the stems and all of the leaves should be above the lip and out of water. If you fill up a tall glass of water and plunk in the lucky bamboo plant, the stem is likely to rot and turn yellow. Likewise, if the roots outgrow the glass and you don’t prune them, the roots are likely to turn gray or black and rot.
How to Keep a Lucky Bamboo from Rotting
Good lucky bamboo plant care will go a long way toward keeping a lucky bamboo from rotting. If the plant currently lives in water, not soil, it is essential that you change the water at least every three weeks. Use bottled water, not tap water.
Lucky bamboo plant care also involves careful placement. These plants require sun, but not too much. Lucky bamboo likes indirect light but not direct sun, so position it on a west-facing window sill for best results. If you see roots that are slimy or dark, snip them off with a nail scissor. If the roots grow mushy, cut off the plant stem above the roots. Treat the plant as a cutting and leave it in water to propagate another plant.
Rotting Lucky Bamboo Plants
The lucky bamboo is a little green plant with one or more slender stems that grow roots on the lower end and leaves on the upper end. These are the plants sold in clear vases filled with water and pretty rocks, so that you can watch the roots grow. The key to keeping a lucky bamboo from rotting is to provide enough water, but not too much. All the plant’s roots should be below the lip of the glass container and in water. Most of the stems and all of the leaves should be above the lip and out of water. If you fill up a tall glass of water and plunk in the lucky bamboo plant, the stem is likely to rot and turn yellow. Likewise, if the roots outgrow the glass and you don’t prune them, the roots are likely to turn gray or black and rot.
How to Keep a Lucky Bamboo from Rotting
Good lucky bamboo plant care will go a long way toward keeping a lucky bamboo from rotting. If the plant currently lives in water, not soil, it is essential that you change the water at least every three weeks. Use bottled water, not tap water.
Lucky bamboo plant care also involves careful placement. These plants require sun, but not too much. Lucky bamboo likes indirect light but not direct sun, so position it on a west-facing window sill for best results. If you see roots that are slimy or dark, snip them off with a nail scissor. If the roots grow mushy, cut off the plant stem above the roots. Treat the plant as a cutting and leave it in water to propagate another plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Epiphytes are one of nature’s most adaptive plants. These wonderful specimens can thrive without deep soil by harvesting much of their water and nutrient needs from the air. Some epiphytes reproduce through pups and others from seed or vegetative action. The easiest epiphyte plant propagation is through pups, but not all varieties produce these. Seed can take years to develop recognizable plants, while cuttings on epiphytic cacti seem the best choice. Propagating epiphytic plants starts with recognizing which type of plant you are growing and choosing the method best for that species.
Propagating Epiphytic Plants
There are many types of epiphytic plants. Bromeliads are one of the most common houseplants but you may also come upon epiphytic cacti, Tillandsia and other species. Each has a different method of reproduction. Knowing how to propagate epiphytic plants will help increase your collection and sustain any favorite specimens. Epiphyte plant propagation is not particularly difficult but there are a few rules to observe and patience is a virtue.
Epiphytic Seed Propagation
Propagation by seed is probably the most universally recognized method for any plant. Epiphytes can be grown from seed if it can be acquired or gather seed from your own plants. Use a well-draining substrate, such as half sand and half peat or even pure vermiculite. Moisten the substrate evenly and sow seeds almost at the surface of the soil and barely covered with sand. Most epiphytes hail from heavy, thick jungles and prefer low light conditions which means they seed in such lighting. Keep your container in a low light area of the home where temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). A heat mat will greatly improve the chances of germination. Keep the substrate lightly moist but not soggy. The time of germination will vary upon species. You will not need to start transplanting epiphytes grown from seed for at least two years; yes, they grow that slowly.
How to Propagate Epiphytic Plants with Cuttings
Probably the best species for cuttings are cacti. Epiphytic cacti cuttings produce an exact clone of the parent plant and will flower and fruit much more quickly than plants sown with seed. This method of epiphyte plant propagation can yield roots in just weeks and blooms within the year. Use clean, sterile cutting implements to avoid transfer of disease. Cuttings can be taken any time of the year but tend to work best if taken in spring. If the plant is branching and has segmented stems, take the cutting at the joint. If the plant has pads, either cut at the base of the pad or you can take the upper segment of the pad. Allow cuttings to callus for a week before planting in sterile sand that has been moistened. If the cactus is a sun seeker, place container in a bright location and if the parent was a low light plant, site the cutting in less light. Keep the medium moderately moist and temperatures high, up to 75 degrees F. (24 C.) provides optimum germination conditions.
Propagating Pups
No, we’re not talking about canines, but the offsets on many epiphytes. Bromeliads are a classic example of a plant that produces pups. Over the years, a single plant can become a crowded group of small and large plants all clustered together. These are pups and are easy to remove from the parent and plant singly. Transplanting epiphytes in this manner results in faster mature plants and is so easy even a novice gardener can accomplish the task successfully. Pups should be 1/3 as tall as the parent. You may either pull the pup away from the mother or use a sharp knife to cut it away. Ensure part of the mother’s root system is attached. Allow the broken or cut end to callus for up to a week. Prepare moist, sterile soil and insert the pup just deep enough so it stands upright. Keep the container in moderate light where temperatures are warm and in a few weeks it will start to root. Care of pups is the same as adult plants.
Propagating Epiphytic Plants
There are many types of epiphytic plants. Bromeliads are one of the most common houseplants but you may also come upon epiphytic cacti, Tillandsia and other species. Each has a different method of reproduction. Knowing how to propagate epiphytic plants will help increase your collection and sustain any favorite specimens. Epiphyte plant propagation is not particularly difficult but there are a few rules to observe and patience is a virtue.
Epiphytic Seed Propagation
Propagation by seed is probably the most universally recognized method for any plant. Epiphytes can be grown from seed if it can be acquired or gather seed from your own plants. Use a well-draining substrate, such as half sand and half peat or even pure vermiculite. Moisten the substrate evenly and sow seeds almost at the surface of the soil and barely covered with sand. Most epiphytes hail from heavy, thick jungles and prefer low light conditions which means they seed in such lighting. Keep your container in a low light area of the home where temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). A heat mat will greatly improve the chances of germination. Keep the substrate lightly moist but not soggy. The time of germination will vary upon species. You will not need to start transplanting epiphytes grown from seed for at least two years; yes, they grow that slowly.
How to Propagate Epiphytic Plants with Cuttings
Probably the best species for cuttings are cacti. Epiphytic cacti cuttings produce an exact clone of the parent plant and will flower and fruit much more quickly than plants sown with seed. This method of epiphyte plant propagation can yield roots in just weeks and blooms within the year. Use clean, sterile cutting implements to avoid transfer of disease. Cuttings can be taken any time of the year but tend to work best if taken in spring. If the plant is branching and has segmented stems, take the cutting at the joint. If the plant has pads, either cut at the base of the pad or you can take the upper segment of the pad. Allow cuttings to callus for a week before planting in sterile sand that has been moistened. If the cactus is a sun seeker, place container in a bright location and if the parent was a low light plant, site the cutting in less light. Keep the medium moderately moist and temperatures high, up to 75 degrees F. (24 C.) provides optimum germination conditions.
Propagating Pups
No, we’re not talking about canines, but the offsets on many epiphytes. Bromeliads are a classic example of a plant that produces pups. Over the years, a single plant can become a crowded group of small and large plants all clustered together. These are pups and are easy to remove from the parent and plant singly. Transplanting epiphytes in this manner results in faster mature plants and is so easy even a novice gardener can accomplish the task successfully. Pups should be 1/3 as tall as the parent. You may either pull the pup away from the mother or use a sharp knife to cut it away. Ensure part of the mother’s root system is attached. Allow the broken or cut end to callus for up to a week. Prepare moist, sterile soil and insert the pup just deep enough so it stands upright. Keep the container in moderate light where temperatures are warm and in a few weeks it will start to root. Care of pups is the same as adult plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are tropical plants that exist in more than 25,000 varieties. They grow in a wide range of environments, from arctic tundras to rain forests, writes Dr. Leonard Perry, a University of Vermont horticulturist. Some types grow in soil, while others grow on the sides of trees, taking their nourishment from the air and moisture around the trees, as well as from bits of decaying organic matter. As with all plants, orchids require nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to grow. Although they require little fertilizing, providing proper nutrients will help them to thrive, and you can make your own orchid fertilizer.
Step 1
Place ½ lb. used coffee grounds into a 5-gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with water and allow the mixture to sit overnight. Filter out the grounds with cheesecloth. Discard the grounds, keeping the liquid.
Step 2
Heat 10 broken eggshells in a 200-degree oven for 30 minutes to kill bacteria. Allow the eggshells to cool. Grind them in a food processor, breaking them up to a fine powder if possible. Place the ground up shells in a jar with water and allow them to soak for five days. Filter out the powder with cheesecloth and discard it. The remaining water is a rich source of calcium for plants.
Step 3
Dilute 1 tsp. plain molasses in 1 pint water and mix vigorously. Molasses will give the plant additional potassium for essential growth processes.
Step 4
Add equal amounts of coffee grounds water, eggshell water and molasses water to a 5-gallon bucket.
Step 5
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Step 6
Dilute the solution by half and apply to the orchid growing medium in place of watering. Fertilize monthly with the mixture. Store any left over mixture in covered containers in a refrigerator
Step 1
Place ½ lb. used coffee grounds into a 5-gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with water and allow the mixture to sit overnight. Filter out the grounds with cheesecloth. Discard the grounds, keeping the liquid.
Step 2
Heat 10 broken eggshells in a 200-degree oven for 30 minutes to kill bacteria. Allow the eggshells to cool. Grind them in a food processor, breaking them up to a fine powder if possible. Place the ground up shells in a jar with water and allow them to soak for five days. Filter out the powder with cheesecloth and discard it. The remaining water is a rich source of calcium for plants.
Step 3
Dilute 1 tsp. plain molasses in 1 pint water and mix vigorously. Molasses will give the plant additional potassium for essential growth processes.
Step 4
Add equal amounts of coffee grounds water, eggshell water and molasses water to a 5-gallon bucket.
Step 5
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Step 6
Dilute the solution by half and apply to the orchid growing medium in place of watering. Fertilize monthly with the mixture. Store any left over mixture in covered containers in a refrigerator
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids (Orchidaceae) first appeared on Earth about 100 million years ago and adapted over time to include both terrestrial types growing in soil and epiphytic types thriving on only air and water. Close to 25,000 naturally occurring orchid species exist on every continent, and all have their own distinctive characteristics or adaptations. Even though they have diversity among their species, orchids share common strategies that ensure their survival.
Flower Pollination
Orchids developed a variety of unusual flowers that attract the creatures that pollinate them. Some flowers resemble their pollinators, such as those of moth orchids (Phalaenopsis group), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. The wide petals at the top of those flowers are reminiscent of moth wings. The flowers of Venus' slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum group) each has a pouch-shaped petal that directs bees and birds straight to the source of pollen. Venus' slipper orchids are perennial in USDA zones 9 through 12.
Fungal Relationship
The ghost orchid (Dendrophylax lindenii), an endangered species that is hardy in only southern Florida in USDA zone 10a, is a leafless orchid that relies on a symbiotic relationship with fungi to move nutrients throughout the plant. A specific fungus lives inside this orchid's roots and also protrudes outside the roots and gathers nutrients from soil.
Multipurpose Roots
Epiphytic orchids' roots have evolved to serve multiple functions. Such an orchid's roots work as roots normally do by transferring water and nutrients to the rest of the plant, but they also anchor the air plant to a tree and perform the photosynthesis that leaves normally do on other kinds of plants. An epiphytic orchid's roots also can store water in the same way as a succulent plant's stems, allowing the orchid to exist high in a tree top to get more sunlight than plants living below.
Stem Pseudobulbs
Because epiphytic orchids live above soil level, they developed bulblike structures that perform the same work of storing water and nutrients that underground bulbs perform for other types of plants. In an epiphytic orchid, one or more sections of a stem bulge outward and become darkened areas, which are the pseudobulbs. Orchids with pseudobulbs can thrive in regions that have dry months between times of seasonal rainfalls.
Flower Pollination
Orchids developed a variety of unusual flowers that attract the creatures that pollinate them. Some flowers resemble their pollinators, such as those of moth orchids (Phalaenopsis group), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. The wide petals at the top of those flowers are reminiscent of moth wings. The flowers of Venus' slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum group) each has a pouch-shaped petal that directs bees and birds straight to the source of pollen. Venus' slipper orchids are perennial in USDA zones 9 through 12.
Fungal Relationship
The ghost orchid (Dendrophylax lindenii), an endangered species that is hardy in only southern Florida in USDA zone 10a, is a leafless orchid that relies on a symbiotic relationship with fungi to move nutrients throughout the plant. A specific fungus lives inside this orchid's roots and also protrudes outside the roots and gathers nutrients from soil.
Multipurpose Roots
Epiphytic orchids' roots have evolved to serve multiple functions. Such an orchid's roots work as roots normally do by transferring water and nutrients to the rest of the plant, but they also anchor the air plant to a tree and perform the photosynthesis that leaves normally do on other kinds of plants. An epiphytic orchid's roots also can store water in the same way as a succulent plant's stems, allowing the orchid to exist high in a tree top to get more sunlight than plants living below.
Stem Pseudobulbs
Because epiphytic orchids live above soil level, they developed bulblike structures that perform the same work of storing water and nutrients that underground bulbs perform for other types of plants. In an epiphytic orchid, one or more sections of a stem bulge outward and become darkened areas, which are the pseudobulbs. Orchids with pseudobulbs can thrive in regions that have dry months between times of seasonal rainfalls.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
There are many varieties of roses but they all need similar habitats from the soil, and mother nature to survive. If they are tended to and cared for properly, they will thrive for many years without being transplanted.
Sunshine
Roses will grow in a wide variety of applications but they do best in an open, sunny location.
Water
Roses need lots of water. In the absence of rain, ample watering is necessary to insure a healthy plant.
Soil
The soil should be slightly acidic, and have adequate drainage. Place rocks and pebbles underneath the bed. This will allow drainage for the plant. Moisture retention is also important. Try a ground covering of cedar chips or mulch to hold in the moisture.
Fertilizer
Roses like a rich soil. Decaying matter also raises the acidic level of the soil. And roses like that too. Obviously too much isn't good either. Once a year applications are sufficient. But heavy clay and sandy soils need extra fertilizer. Perhaps one half by volume (depending on the soil).
Pruning
It is best to prune just before new growth begins and as the buds begin to swell. Be sure that you are past the frost season or the newly pruned tips may become damaged. Pruning should also be done with sharp pruning shears to avoid damage to the plant.
Sunshine
Roses will grow in a wide variety of applications but they do best in an open, sunny location.
Water
Roses need lots of water. In the absence of rain, ample watering is necessary to insure a healthy plant.
Soil
The soil should be slightly acidic, and have adequate drainage. Place rocks and pebbles underneath the bed. This will allow drainage for the plant. Moisture retention is also important. Try a ground covering of cedar chips or mulch to hold in the moisture.
Fertilizer
Roses like a rich soil. Decaying matter also raises the acidic level of the soil. And roses like that too. Obviously too much isn't good either. Once a year applications are sufficient. But heavy clay and sandy soils need extra fertilizer. Perhaps one half by volume (depending on the soil).
Pruning
It is best to prune just before new growth begins and as the buds begin to swell. Be sure that you are past the frost season or the newly pruned tips may become damaged. Pruning should also be done with sharp pruning shears to avoid damage to the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
When you have a bromeliad to care for, you might be wondering how to water a bromeliad. Watering bromeliads is no different than any other houseplant care; check your houseplants regularly for their soil being dry. Most plants need water when they are dry unless they are a picky plant, in which case, you should have some sort of direction as to how to handle the watering.
The Bromeliad Water Tank
Bromeliads grow in a many different conditions. When taking care of a bromeliad, water it well. The center of a bromeliad is called a tank or cup. This particular plant will hold water in its tank. Fill the tank in the center and don’t allow it to get empty. Don’t let the water sit for a long time or it will stagnate and possibly cause damage to the plant. Also, salt builds up so it’s best to flush it out. You will also need to change the water frequently, about once a week. Let the excess water drain in a drain pan or plate, and let the plant dry out before you decide to water it again.
Best Water for Bromeliads
If you can use it, rainwater is the best water for bromeliads because it is most natural. Distilled water also works well for watering bromeliads. Bromeliad water can also be tap water, but there may be a build up of salt and chemicals from tap water. Bromeliads are tough, carefree plants indoors. They provide color to a room and any problems you might encounter can be fixed pretty quick because the problems are usually caused by overwatering or failure to change the water. If your bromeliad is an outdoor plant, be sure to bring it in during freezing weather. If it freezes, there will be damage to the plant from the water in the tank.
Rewards for Watering Bromeliads
Healthy bromeliads come from being taken care of well. If you want to enjoy your plant for months and months, you want to be sure to take care of it. Remember that the water can be rainwater, filtered water or tap water, that watering bromeliads should be done when the soil is dry; and that how to water a bromeliad is not much different than watering any other houseplant.
The Bromeliad Water Tank
Bromeliads grow in a many different conditions. When taking care of a bromeliad, water it well. The center of a bromeliad is called a tank or cup. This particular plant will hold water in its tank. Fill the tank in the center and don’t allow it to get empty. Don’t let the water sit for a long time or it will stagnate and possibly cause damage to the plant. Also, salt builds up so it’s best to flush it out. You will also need to change the water frequently, about once a week. Let the excess water drain in a drain pan or plate, and let the plant dry out before you decide to water it again.
Best Water for Bromeliads
If you can use it, rainwater is the best water for bromeliads because it is most natural. Distilled water also works well for watering bromeliads. Bromeliad water can also be tap water, but there may be a build up of salt and chemicals from tap water. Bromeliads are tough, carefree plants indoors. They provide color to a room and any problems you might encounter can be fixed pretty quick because the problems are usually caused by overwatering or failure to change the water. If your bromeliad is an outdoor plant, be sure to bring it in during freezing weather. If it freezes, there will be damage to the plant from the water in the tank.
Rewards for Watering Bromeliads
Healthy bromeliads come from being taken care of well. If you want to enjoy your plant for months and months, you want to be sure to take care of it. Remember that the water can be rainwater, filtered water or tap water, that watering bromeliads should be done when the soil is dry; and that how to water a bromeliad is not much different than watering any other houseplant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
What is it about air plants (Tillandsia) that make them so fascinating? Air plants are epiphytic plants, which means that unlike most other plants, their survival doesn’t depend on soil. Instead, they draw moisture and nutrients through their leaves. Although air plant care is minimal, the plant can sometimes begin to look sickly – shriveled, limp, brown or droopy. Can you revive an air plant in this condition? Yes, at least if the plant isn’t too far gone. Read on to learn about reviving a Tillandsia.
How to Revive an Air Plant
Why do my air plants keep dying? If your Tillandsia isn’t looking its best, especially if it’s shriveled or brown, there’s a good chance that the plant is extremely thirsty. Although misting the plant is often recommended, spritzing usually doesn’t provide enough moisture to keep the plant healthy and hydrated.
If you determine that this is the case, reviving a Tillandsia means returning the plant to a healthy well-hydrated state. The easiest way to accomplish this is to soak the entire plant in a bowl or bucket of lukewarm water. You may need to tie the plant to a heavy object to keep it from floating to the top of the water. Place the bowl in a warm location and let it soak for 12 hours. Remove the plant from the bowl, place it on a layer of paper towels, and allow it to air dry before returning the plant to its regular location. If the plant continues to look dry and sickly, repeat the procedure, but this time leave the Tillandsia submerged for only about four hours. Hold the plant upside-down and shake gently to remove excess moisture from the leaves.
Air Plant Care
To keep a Tillandsia well hydrated, soak the plant in a bowl of warm water for an hour every week during the summer, decreasing to once every three weeks during the winter months (Some people find that a 10-minute soak is enough, so watch your plant closely to determine its particular needs. If the plant begins to look swollen, it’s absorbing too much water and will benefit from a shorter bath.). Place your air plant in bright, indirect or filtered sunlight from spring until fall. Move it into direct light during the winter months. You may need to supplement winter sunlight with full spectrum artificial lights for about 12 hours per day. Ensure Tillandsia receives adequate air circulation. If your air plant is in a container, uncover the container and place it in an airy location. Alternatively, remove the Tillandsia from the container for a full day every week.
Always shake excess water off your Tillandsia after watering, then allow it to dry in a colander or on a layer of paper towels. The plant can be damaged if water is allowed to remain on the leaves. If your Tillandisa is in a sea shell, empty the shell as needed to be sure the plant isn’t sitting in water. Feed Tillandisa a bromeliad fertilizer twice a month. Alternatively, apply a regular, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or orchid food highly diluted at a rate of one pinch per gallon of water.
How to Revive an Air Plant
Why do my air plants keep dying? If your Tillandsia isn’t looking its best, especially if it’s shriveled or brown, there’s a good chance that the plant is extremely thirsty. Although misting the plant is often recommended, spritzing usually doesn’t provide enough moisture to keep the plant healthy and hydrated.
If you determine that this is the case, reviving a Tillandsia means returning the plant to a healthy well-hydrated state. The easiest way to accomplish this is to soak the entire plant in a bowl or bucket of lukewarm water. You may need to tie the plant to a heavy object to keep it from floating to the top of the water. Place the bowl in a warm location and let it soak for 12 hours. Remove the plant from the bowl, place it on a layer of paper towels, and allow it to air dry before returning the plant to its regular location. If the plant continues to look dry and sickly, repeat the procedure, but this time leave the Tillandsia submerged for only about four hours. Hold the plant upside-down and shake gently to remove excess moisture from the leaves.
Air Plant Care
To keep a Tillandsia well hydrated, soak the plant in a bowl of warm water for an hour every week during the summer, decreasing to once every three weeks during the winter months (Some people find that a 10-minute soak is enough, so watch your plant closely to determine its particular needs. If the plant begins to look swollen, it’s absorbing too much water and will benefit from a shorter bath.). Place your air plant in bright, indirect or filtered sunlight from spring until fall. Move it into direct light during the winter months. You may need to supplement winter sunlight with full spectrum artificial lights for about 12 hours per day. Ensure Tillandsia receives adequate air circulation. If your air plant is in a container, uncover the container and place it in an airy location. Alternatively, remove the Tillandsia from the container for a full day every week.
Always shake excess water off your Tillandsia after watering, then allow it to dry in a colander or on a layer of paper towels. The plant can be damaged if water is allowed to remain on the leaves. If your Tillandisa is in a sea shell, empty the shell as needed to be sure the plant isn’t sitting in water. Feed Tillandisa a bromeliad fertilizer twice a month. Alternatively, apply a regular, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or orchid food highly diluted at a rate of one pinch per gallon of water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The ability of a plant to obtain necessary plant nutrients depends largely on the pH of its soil, measured on a scale of 1 to 14. Acidic soil, sometimes called "sour" soil, has a pH below 7, considered neutral. Alkaline soil, sometimes called "sweet" soil, has a pH above 7. Most rose cultivars prefer a pH between 6 and 7. If your soil pH is below 6, you can increase the number by adding lime.
Climate and Soil
There are between 150 and 300 species and 6,000 cultivars in the Rosa genus. Roses will grow in most soils that have a high organic content, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4b to 10b, depending on the species and cultivar. To determine if you need to add lime to your soil you have to know its pH. Test it either in the fall or spring.
Testing Soil pH
Use a spade, spoon or trowel to take a sample from the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. Do not do this when the soil is wet. Spread the sample on plastic wrap and let it dry overnight. When it's completely dry, remove stones and solid matter and put the soil in a plastic bag. It's now ready to test using a home soil testing kit that you can buy from most garden supply centers. Alternatively, you can have it tested by a commercial testing service that will also tell you of any mineral deficiencies in the soil. If your soil pH is too low for roses, add lime to raise the number.
How Much Lime to Apply
Finely ground limestone, calcium carbonate, available at most garden supply centers, is typically recommended for home gardeners. How much lime to apply to raise soil pH to 6.5, ideal for roses, depends on the type of soil. For clay soil: Add 29 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 41 1/4 ounces per square yard to 5 pH clay soil, and 53 ounces per square yard for 4.5 pH, per recommendations from The Royal Horticultural Society. For loam soil: Add 23 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 35 1/4 ounces per square yard on 5 pH loam soil, and 44 1/4 ounces per square yard on 4.5 pH. For sandy soil: Add 20 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 29 1/2 ounces per square yard to 5 pH sandy soil, and 38 1/4 ounces to 4.5 pH.
How to Apply
Winter is a good time to apply lime. If you apply more than 14 3/4 ounces of lime per square yard, dig half of it into the top 6 inches of soil and sprinkle the other half on the surface when you're finished. If you apply less than that amount per square yard, dig all of it into the soil. If digging is impractical, sprinkle all of it on top of the soil. It's best to add lime before you plant roses. If you sprinkle it around plants, it can take years to have any effect.
Climate and Soil
There are between 150 and 300 species and 6,000 cultivars in the Rosa genus. Roses will grow in most soils that have a high organic content, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4b to 10b, depending on the species and cultivar. To determine if you need to add lime to your soil you have to know its pH. Test it either in the fall or spring.
Testing Soil pH
Use a spade, spoon or trowel to take a sample from the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. Do not do this when the soil is wet. Spread the sample on plastic wrap and let it dry overnight. When it's completely dry, remove stones and solid matter and put the soil in a plastic bag. It's now ready to test using a home soil testing kit that you can buy from most garden supply centers. Alternatively, you can have it tested by a commercial testing service that will also tell you of any mineral deficiencies in the soil. If your soil pH is too low for roses, add lime to raise the number.
How Much Lime to Apply
Finely ground limestone, calcium carbonate, available at most garden supply centers, is typically recommended for home gardeners. How much lime to apply to raise soil pH to 6.5, ideal for roses, depends on the type of soil. For clay soil: Add 29 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 41 1/4 ounces per square yard to 5 pH clay soil, and 53 ounces per square yard for 4.5 pH, per recommendations from The Royal Horticultural Society. For loam soil: Add 23 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 35 1/4 ounces per square yard on 5 pH loam soil, and 44 1/4 ounces per square yard on 4.5 pH. For sandy soil: Add 20 1/2 ounces of lime per square yard to raise pH from 5.5 to 6.5, 29 1/2 ounces per square yard to 5 pH sandy soil, and 38 1/4 ounces to 4.5 pH.
How to Apply
Winter is a good time to apply lime. If you apply more than 14 3/4 ounces of lime per square yard, dig half of it into the top 6 inches of soil and sprinkle the other half on the surface when you're finished. If you apply less than that amount per square yard, dig all of it into the soil. If digging is impractical, sprinkle all of it on top of the soil. It's best to add lime before you plant roses. If you sprinkle it around plants, it can take years to have any effect.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Eggshells are calcium-rich organic material that decompose well when mixed into or layered on top of soil. Roses require heavy amounts of organic material to grow to their ultimate potential. Eggshells can be tilled directly into soil or added to compost or manure. Eggshells add nutrients, can help to stabilize the pH level and can act as a natural deterrent against pests.
Calcium
Plants, including roses, require large amounts of calcium in order to thrive. In terms of quantity needed, calcium ranks as a secondary nutrient behind nitrogen and potassium in plant nutrient needs. In plants, calcium helps to maintain the chemical balance of soil, increases metabolic rate and helps to neutralize cell acid. Egg shells are composed of about 95 percent calcium and therefore can provide roses with their full calcium requirement. There are no studies indicating harm caused by calcium overdose on plants, so tilling eggshells both into the soil and layering on top of the soil can be done simultaneously.
Lime
Aside from calcium, eggshells contain lime and protein. Lime is added to soil when it is too acidic (low pH level) to neutralize the acidity and raise the pH level. Roses grow best at a moderate pH level of about 6.5. Lime adds magnesium to the soil and helps increase aeration and drainage. Most commercial fertilizers contain lime.
Compost
Eggshells can be added to home compost piles to add calcium and lime to the mix. Eggshells act as an alkalizer when added to compost and do not change the nitrogen-to-carbon ratio. Home compost can be tilled into rose soil or crushed eggshells can be mixed into a commercial fertilizer or manure. Roses greatly benefit from large amounts of organic matter, the best ratio is 50 percent organic material to 50 percent soil.
Mulch
Crushed eggshells can also be scattered on top of the planted rose bed as a mulch. The nutrients seep into the soil with every rain or watering. To hide the eggshells, a second layer of bark or moss mulch can be layered on top. Eggshells placed on top and exposed to the air have a double use; aside from adding nutrients to the soil they act as a deterrent to slugs and cats. The eggshells lacerate a slug's underside, so slugs that crawl across broken eggshells turn back.
Calcium
Plants, including roses, require large amounts of calcium in order to thrive. In terms of quantity needed, calcium ranks as a secondary nutrient behind nitrogen and potassium in plant nutrient needs. In plants, calcium helps to maintain the chemical balance of soil, increases metabolic rate and helps to neutralize cell acid. Egg shells are composed of about 95 percent calcium and therefore can provide roses with their full calcium requirement. There are no studies indicating harm caused by calcium overdose on plants, so tilling eggshells both into the soil and layering on top of the soil can be done simultaneously.
Lime
Aside from calcium, eggshells contain lime and protein. Lime is added to soil when it is too acidic (low pH level) to neutralize the acidity and raise the pH level. Roses grow best at a moderate pH level of about 6.5. Lime adds magnesium to the soil and helps increase aeration and drainage. Most commercial fertilizers contain lime.
Compost
Eggshells can be added to home compost piles to add calcium and lime to the mix. Eggshells act as an alkalizer when added to compost and do not change the nitrogen-to-carbon ratio. Home compost can be tilled into rose soil or crushed eggshells can be mixed into a commercial fertilizer or manure. Roses greatly benefit from large amounts of organic matter, the best ratio is 50 percent organic material to 50 percent soil.
Mulch
Crushed eggshells can also be scattered on top of the planted rose bed as a mulch. The nutrients seep into the soil with every rain or watering. To hide the eggshells, a second layer of bark or moss mulch can be layered on top. Eggshells placed on top and exposed to the air have a double use; aside from adding nutrients to the soil they act as a deterrent to slugs and cats. The eggshells lacerate a slug's underside, so slugs that crawl across broken eggshells turn back.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
When you cut a tree down or pull a stump out of the ground, roots remaining the soil are often still alive and may produce new shoots. Certain trees including willows (Salix spp.), some maples (Acer spp.) and Populus species such as cottonwood tend to produce new sprouts very vigorously. Treating a stump with herbicide immediately following cutting the tree down can kill the tree's root system. Where the bulk of the stump and tree crown were pulled out or ground up and there is no cut surface remaining, you will have to address the remaining root system by treating new sprouts as they emerge.
Step 1
Grind out as much of the remaining stump and root system as possible. This will greatly decrease the number of sprouts that appear.
Step 2
Drill holes into the remaining stump and root system, pour a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer into the prepared holes and cover the area with mulch or soil. This will accelerate decay.
Step 3
Monitor the site for new sprouts and cut them off at or below ground level as soon as they appear. Constantly removing young sprouts or mowing them off at ground level will eventually deplete the root system's reserves.
Herbicide to Kill Roots
Step 4
Cut any remaining stump down to as near as possible to ground level, exposing living tissue, and make the cut as level as possible so herbicide will not run off of the surface. Brush any sawdust or dirt off of the cut surface, as debris will interfere with herbicide absorption.
Step 5
Prepare a herbicide solution that contains 8 to 10 percent glyphosate or triclopyr. Look at the active ingredients list on the product's label and observe the percentage of glyphosate or triclopyr in the material. Blend this product with water so that the new solution contains 8 to 10 percent active ingredient. Specific manufacturers may offer different directions for product preparation and use with cut surface treatments. Always follow manufacturer recommendations to ensure safe and effective use.
Step 6
Brush the prepared herbicide solution onto the cut surface using a foam brush or applicator. For small stems, coat the entire surface. For larger stumps, you only have to paint the chemical onto the outer three inches of the cut surface, as this is where the living tissue is located. Alternatively, you can use a small hand or garden sprayer to apply the product, coating the cut surface thoroughly, though not to the point of runoff.
Step 7
Monitor the area regularly for any emerging suckers. Cut the suckers down at or just below the soil surface as soon as you notice them. This will gradually deplete the root system's reserves. Alternatively, wait until the leaves on the sucker have fully expanded and spray the foliage on the sprout with a solution that contains 1 to 2 percent glyphosate or triclopyr unless otherwise directed by the product manufacturer. If the sprouts are located in a lawn area or where there is desirable vegetation, use triclopyr or another herbicide that will kill broadleaf plants without injuring grasses or apply the chemical very carefully.
Step 1
Grind out as much of the remaining stump and root system as possible. This will greatly decrease the number of sprouts that appear.
Step 2
Drill holes into the remaining stump and root system, pour a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer into the prepared holes and cover the area with mulch or soil. This will accelerate decay.
Step 3
Monitor the site for new sprouts and cut them off at or below ground level as soon as they appear. Constantly removing young sprouts or mowing them off at ground level will eventually deplete the root system's reserves.
Herbicide to Kill Roots
Step 4
Cut any remaining stump down to as near as possible to ground level, exposing living tissue, and make the cut as level as possible so herbicide will not run off of the surface. Brush any sawdust or dirt off of the cut surface, as debris will interfere with herbicide absorption.
Step 5
Prepare a herbicide solution that contains 8 to 10 percent glyphosate or triclopyr. Look at the active ingredients list on the product's label and observe the percentage of glyphosate or triclopyr in the material. Blend this product with water so that the new solution contains 8 to 10 percent active ingredient. Specific manufacturers may offer different directions for product preparation and use with cut surface treatments. Always follow manufacturer recommendations to ensure safe and effective use.
Step 6
Brush the prepared herbicide solution onto the cut surface using a foam brush or applicator. For small stems, coat the entire surface. For larger stumps, you only have to paint the chemical onto the outer three inches of the cut surface, as this is where the living tissue is located. Alternatively, you can use a small hand or garden sprayer to apply the product, coating the cut surface thoroughly, though not to the point of runoff.
Step 7
Monitor the area regularly for any emerging suckers. Cut the suckers down at or just below the soil surface as soon as you notice them. This will gradually deplete the root system's reserves. Alternatively, wait until the leaves on the sucker have fully expanded and spray the foliage on the sprout with a solution that contains 1 to 2 percent glyphosate or triclopyr unless otherwise directed by the product manufacturer. If the sprouts are located in a lawn area or where there is desirable vegetation, use triclopyr or another herbicide that will kill broadleaf plants without injuring grasses or apply the chemical very carefully.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
A greenhouse is not only the perfect environment for many plants, it can also act as a safe haven for pests such as mice. With the warmth and coziness of the greenhouse -- along with potting soil, growing fruits, seeds and plant debris -- mice who discover it find easy food and lodging. Incorporate several control measures so your greenhouse does not become the next bed and breakfast for the local mouse population.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
How to Keep a Cactus Alive. If you seem to lack a green thumb, you are not alone. We've all killed a cactus or three at some point. Common cactus ailments include rot, fungus, dull complexion, wilting, and a stunted growth due to poor light, poor soil, neglect, or too much water. If your cactus is about to kick the bucket, here's how to bring it back to life without too much effort on your part.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Dragon fruit, or pitaya, grows on a cactus plant. Unlike desert cacti, the pitaya cactus requires regular watering for healthiest growth and best fruit production. Dragon fruit is native to tropical and subtropical areas where high rainfall and moist soil is common. Regular watering encourages the cactus to produce flavorful, well-formed fruits. The cactus requires 25 to 50 inches of rainfall or supplemental irrigation a year.
Step 1
Irrigate dragon fruit plants one to two times weekly. Water at the base of the plants so the moisture soaks deeply into the soil.
Step 2
Provide approximately 1 inch of water at each irrigation. An inch of water typically moistens the top 6 inches of soil. Dragon fruit plants cannot tolerate overly wet soil.
Step 3
Stop watering in early spring before the cacti flower. The plants require dry soil to flower successfully. Resume watering once the flowers open to ensure healthy fruit set.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Before you decide to start crown gall treatment, consider the value of the plant you are treating. The bacteria that causes crown gall disease in plants persists in the soil as long as there are susceptible plants in the area. To eliminate the bacteria and prevent the spread, it’s best to remove and destroy diseased plants. What is Crown Gall? When learning about crown gall treatment, it helps to know more about what is crown gall in the first place. Plants with crown gall have swollen knots, called galls, near the crown and sometimes on the roots and twigs as well. The galls are tan in color and may be spongy in texture at first, but they eventually harden and turn dark brown or black. As the disease progresses, the galls can totally encircle the trunks and branches, cutting off the flow of sap that nourishes the plant. The galls are caused by a bacterium (Rhizobium radiobacter formerly Agrobacterium tumefaciens) that lives in the soil and enters the plant through injuries. Once inside the plant, the bacterium injects some of its genetic material into the host’s cells, causing it to produce hormones that stimulate small areas of rapid growth.
How to Fix Crown Gall
Unfortunately, the best course of action for plants affected by crown gall is to remove and destroy the infected plant. The bacteria can persist in the soil for two years after the plant is gone, so avoid planting any other susceptible plants in the area until the bacteria dies out for lack of a host plant. Prevention is an essential aspect of dealing with crown gall. Inspect plants carefully before you buy them, and reject any plants with swollen knots. The disease can enter the plant in the nursery through the graft union, so pay particular attention to this area.
To prevent the bacteria from entering the plant once you get it home, avoid wounds near the ground as much as possible. Use string trimmers with care and mow the lawn so that debris flies away from susceptible plants. Galltrol is a product that contains a bacterium that competes with Rhizobium radiobacter and prevents it from entering wounds. A chemical eradicant called Gallex may also help prevent the crown gall disease in plants. Although these products are sometimes recommended for crown gall treatment, they are more effective when used as a preventative before the bacteria infects the plant.
Plants Affected by Crown Gall Over 600 different plants are affected by crown gall, including these common landscape plants: Fruit trees, particularly apples and members of the Prunus family, which includes cherries and plums Roses and members of the rose family Raspberries and blackberries Willow trees Wisteria
How to Fix Crown Gall
Unfortunately, the best course of action for plants affected by crown gall is to remove and destroy the infected plant. The bacteria can persist in the soil for two years after the plant is gone, so avoid planting any other susceptible plants in the area until the bacteria dies out for lack of a host plant. Prevention is an essential aspect of dealing with crown gall. Inspect plants carefully before you buy them, and reject any plants with swollen knots. The disease can enter the plant in the nursery through the graft union, so pay particular attention to this area.
To prevent the bacteria from entering the plant once you get it home, avoid wounds near the ground as much as possible. Use string trimmers with care and mow the lawn so that debris flies away from susceptible plants. Galltrol is a product that contains a bacterium that competes with Rhizobium radiobacter and prevents it from entering wounds. A chemical eradicant called Gallex may also help prevent the crown gall disease in plants. Although these products are sometimes recommended for crown gall treatment, they are more effective when used as a preventative before the bacteria infects the plant.
Plants Affected by Crown Gall Over 600 different plants are affected by crown gall, including these common landscape plants: Fruit trees, particularly apples and members of the Prunus family, which includes cherries and plums Roses and members of the rose family Raspberries and blackberries Willow trees Wisteria
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
There is a fungus among us and its name is Fusarium. This soil-borne pathogen attacks many types of plants, with ornamental flowers and some vegetables topping the list. Fusarium fungus can survive indefinitely, affecting any crop or plant that is contaminated by the soil. The fungus produces Fusarium wilt disease, which is also called “yellows.” This self- explanatory name indicates the major symptom of the disease. In crop and greenhouse settings, controlling Fusarium wilt is of primary importance, as it has the capacity to run rampant among closely grown plants. About Fusarium Fungus The fungus attacks plants in the nightshade family, such as tomatoes and peppers. It is also found in greenhouse flowers and some trees. 
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
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