文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
If a cactus breaks off, don't throw the broken piece away. Put it into cactus soil and start a new plant. Cacti, also known as succulents, are slow-
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulent plants have thick, fleshy leaves that store water. Some varieties flower while others only produce attractive foliage and stems. Most succulents thrive in dry conditions because too much moisture can cause the plants to rot. Rocky soil that drains quickly works well for most succulent varieties. You can grow them indoors in a dish filled with gravel, which provides adequate moisture drainage, although some soil is still necessary to provide nutrients and a medium for the succulent roots.
Step 1
Fill a 3- to 5-inch-deep pot or dish with a one inch layer of gravel. Use a dish with no bottom drainage holes.
Step 2
Sprinkle a tablespoon of powdered activated charcoal over the top of the gravel layer. Charcoal prevents odors from developing in the moisture trapped within the the gravel layer.
Step 3
Place a peat-based potting soil on top the gravel, filling the dish to within 1/2 inch of the rim. Alternatively, make your own mix by combining two parts peat with one part compost.
Step 4
Water the soil layer until it is evenly moistened throughout. Stick your finger into the soil mixture to judge the moisture level.
Step 5
Plant the succulents in the potting soil. Set them so their roots are buried to the same depth. Spacing requirements depend on the specific plant type, but generally a 2- to 4-inch spacing is sufficient.
Step 6
Water the succulents when the potting soil layer is completely dry. Provide only enough moisture to slightly dampen the soil. The excess moisture drains into the gravel bed beneath the soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
In hydroculture, also known as hydroponics, plants grow in a soilless medium known as substrate, where the roots anchor themselves. The substrate is usually sand or gravel and, unlike the soil in traditional planting, it does not hold nutrients. Hydroponic plants get nourishment from a water-based fertilizer. For succulents, make the feeding solution weaker than you would for other hydroponic specimens.
About Succulents
Succulents are plants that retain water in their leaves or stems, such as the cactus species. Adapted to dry climates, succulents look slightly to very swollen -- depending on the specimen -- because of the moisture they hold inside for times of drought.
Growing Succulents Hydroponically
Douglas Peckenpaugh, author of the book "Hydroponic Solutions, Volume 1," says that gardeners have to follow two rules to successfully grow succulents in hydroculture: Dilute the water-based fertilizer to half strength and use a substrate that lets the liquid seep through. River sand, gravel, perlite and vermiculite are good options. Buy the material of your choice sealed in a commercial package to guarantee sterility and prevent diseases from transferring to the succulent.
Why Hydroponics
The purpose of soil in traditional gardening is to hold nutrients, according to the University of Alabama Cooperative Extension. When you water your plants, the minerals dissolve in the liquid and the roots absorb them. Plants grown hydroponically skip this step and sometimes grow faster as a result, since nourishment is always diluted and available in the water. If you capture the water-based fertilizer as it drains to feed it to your succulent multiple times, limit the food recycling to two weeks. At the end of that period, drench the substrate with water to flush old nutrient residue. After the medium becomes almost dry, begin to feed the plant a fresh batch of liquid feed.
Feeding the Succulent
To prevent saturating your succulent with water, which can kill it, allow the substrate to become mostly dry before refilling the hydroculture pot with liquid feed. But also take care to not let the plant sit in a dry medium for long periods of time. The feeding solution for hydroponic culture provides the same nutrients that traditionally grown plants need. Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, as well as calcium and magnesium, are needed in large amounts and considered macronutrients. Minerals such as iron, zinc and copper are trace elements required in small quantities. Recipes for you to prepare your own hydroponic feed exist, but using a commercial formula is simpler. The manufacturer calculates all the ratios among the nutrients with precision and gives you the application instructions. You just need to remember to weaken the formula to half-strength with water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Cercospora fruit spot is a common disease of citrus fruits but it also affects many other crops. What is cercospora? The disease is fungal and survives on any affected fruit in soil from the previous season. Read on to learn more. What is Cercospora? Fruit and crop management is an ongoing process. One of the key aspects is inspection of fruits and vegetables for disease and preventative measures early in the season to protect the crop. Cercospora leaf spot or fruit spot is a fungus that requires moisture and is wind borne. The disease survives in dormant lesions from previous season fruit.
Once warm, wet weather starts, the fungus disseminates condida, which are similar to a spore. These condida transfer from rain splash, mechanical transfer, or wind. The full name for this fungal disease is Pseudocercospora angolensis. Leaves of affected plants will produce circular spots with light brown to grayish centers. When the rainy season sets in, these spots become dark and almost black with a yellow halo. Leaves generally fall off after a period. Stem lesions are not frequent but you may find twig dieback. The fruit gets dark spots that may produce a tumor-like growth surrounded by a halo. These will sink in and develop necrosis. Early fruit that is immature will drop. Cercospora fungus in mature fruits will dry up and become tough. Symptoms are slightly different on various crops. Okra will develop a sooty mold on leaves and carrots get more necrotic spots on young leaves.
Roses will develop cercospora leaf spot as lesions and dark sunken areas on the leaves. Other crops affected are: Bean Beetroot Capsicum (peppers) Watercress Avocado Fig Coffee Cercospora Fungus Damage In well managed crops, it does not usually run rampant but the disease can produce unsavory fruit and diminish harvest. To preserve the best fruit, treatment of cercospora should start with cleanup of downed fruit at the end of the season and commence with fungicides applied in the spring. In small infestations, the few fruit affected will not limit crop yield much, but in heavily diseased plants, the entire crop may become useless. Not only are fruits unsightly and unappetizing, but they are not juicy or tasty. The necrotic areas from cercospora fruit spot are dry, tough, and woody in some species, creating a poor eating experience. These rather ugly fruits are impossible to sell and provide a dilemma as to disposal. In the compost pile, the fungus can survive unless temperatures are hot enough to destroy the condida. Fruit cleanup in affected areas is necessary to prevent the spread of cercospora leaf spot in the next season’s crop. Treatment of Cercospora In addition to cleaning up dropped fruit, it may be necessary to destroy heavily infected crops in fall. There are also fungal sprays and dusts recommended for control of cercospora.
Treatment must begin in the wet, rainy season when temperatures have warmed. It is advised to rotate the chemicals used yearly to minimize the chance of resistance. A second application may be required in wet, humid regions. Use all sprays and dusts in a manner consistent with the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are in doubt, use a licensed professional to apply the treatments.
Once warm, wet weather starts, the fungus disseminates condida, which are similar to a spore. These condida transfer from rain splash, mechanical transfer, or wind. The full name for this fungal disease is Pseudocercospora angolensis. Leaves of affected plants will produce circular spots with light brown to grayish centers. When the rainy season sets in, these spots become dark and almost black with a yellow halo. Leaves generally fall off after a period. Stem lesions are not frequent but you may find twig dieback. The fruit gets dark spots that may produce a tumor-like growth surrounded by a halo. These will sink in and develop necrosis. Early fruit that is immature will drop. Cercospora fungus in mature fruits will dry up and become tough. Symptoms are slightly different on various crops. Okra will develop a sooty mold on leaves and carrots get more necrotic spots on young leaves.
Roses will develop cercospora leaf spot as lesions and dark sunken areas on the leaves. Other crops affected are: Bean Beetroot Capsicum (peppers) Watercress Avocado Fig Coffee Cercospora Fungus Damage In well managed crops, it does not usually run rampant but the disease can produce unsavory fruit and diminish harvest. To preserve the best fruit, treatment of cercospora should start with cleanup of downed fruit at the end of the season and commence with fungicides applied in the spring. In small infestations, the few fruit affected will not limit crop yield much, but in heavily diseased plants, the entire crop may become useless. Not only are fruits unsightly and unappetizing, but they are not juicy or tasty. The necrotic areas from cercospora fruit spot are dry, tough, and woody in some species, creating a poor eating experience. These rather ugly fruits are impossible to sell and provide a dilemma as to disposal. In the compost pile, the fungus can survive unless temperatures are hot enough to destroy the condida. Fruit cleanup in affected areas is necessary to prevent the spread of cercospora leaf spot in the next season’s crop. Treatment of Cercospora In addition to cleaning up dropped fruit, it may be necessary to destroy heavily infected crops in fall. There are also fungal sprays and dusts recommended for control of cercospora.
Treatment must begin in the wet, rainy season when temperatures have warmed. It is advised to rotate the chemicals used yearly to minimize the chance of resistance. A second application may be required in wet, humid regions. Use all sprays and dusts in a manner consistent with the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are in doubt, use a licensed professional to apply the treatments.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Anemone
Anemones naturalize easily in good garden soil, spreading their early-spring cheer in the ephemeral garden under bare trees and shrubs that later leaf out. These daisylike blooms feature thin, silky petals that quickly disperse in the breeze after flowering. A color range of white, sky blue, pink to the velvety reds and purples of poppy anemones provide jewellike tones for early in the season before the tulips open.
Soak anemone corms in warm water overnight before planting to speed sprouting. These hardy Mediterranean natives flourish in a well-drained, lighter soil in full sun to partial shade.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:Under 6 inches to 12 inches
WIDTH:2-6 inches wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, Pink, Red, White
FOLIAGE COLOR:Blue/Green
SEASONAL FEATURES:Fall Bloom, Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom, Winter Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Drought Tolerant, Good For Privacy, Groundcover, Slope/Erosion Control
SPECIAL FEATURES:Cut Flowers, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:5-9
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求助
Camden Crace
2017年08月06日
So i have this euphorbia trigona. i accidentaly left it in the rain for about ten minuets as soon as i saw this i took the plant out of the wet soil and put it in dry soil. Was this the right thing to do?
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sarajordan2993：if you have super high temps during the day , the soil should dry out . if it doesnt within about 5-7 days , replant . if you replant , itll only disturb the roots & plant itself . it does more harm to replant , than having wet soil
sunnyzou：nothing to be worried.actually no need to replant
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Citrullus lanatus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
Everyone seems to love juicy watermelon in the summertime. Native to Africa, melons need warm temperatures (up to 80°F during the day) and a long growing season.
Gardeners in colder climates can still have success in growing watermelon vines by starting seeds indoors and choosing short-season varieties. Days to maturity range from 70 to 90, depending on the variety.
PLANTING
If you live in warmer climes, you can sow seeds directly outdoors, but wait until the soil temperature warms to at least 70°F to avoid poor germination.
Watermelon vines are very tender and should not be transplanted until all danger of frost has passed. (To be safe, wait at least two weeks past your last frost date.)
If you are in a cooler zone, start seeds indoors about a month before transplanting.
Amend soil with aged manure, seaweed, and/or compost before planting. Watermelons are heavy feeders.
Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6 and 6.8.
Growing the vines in raised rows, known as hills, ensures good drainage and will hold the sun’s heat longer. Space the plants about 2 feet apart in a 5-foot-wide hill.
If you’re growing in rows, space 6 feet by 6 feet apart.
Watermelons like loamy, well-drained soil. Handle them gently when you transplant.
After you transplant, cover the plants with row covers to keep pests at bay. You’ll remove the row covers when you see both male and female flowers on the vine.
CARE
Mulching with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.
Watering is very important—from planting until fruit begins to form. While melon plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Keep soil moist, but not waterlogged. Water at the vine’s base in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves and avoid overhead watering. Reduce watering once fruit are growing. Dry weather produces the sweetest melon.
If you choose to fertilize (and many do), make sure it delivers more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium. However, after flowering begins, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen. We like to use liquid seaweed.
Pruning isn’t necessary, but vine productivity may be improved if you do not allow lateral (side) vines to grow and stick to the main vine. When the plant is young, just cut off the end buds as they form (before the side shoots become vines). You can also pinch off some blossoms to focus the energy on fewer melons (though it’s a challenge to kill off a potential fruit).
Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. Do not be concerned if the male flowers fall off. The female flowers (which have a swollen bulb at the base) will stay on the vine and bear fruit.
Blossoms require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
As fruit is ripening, prevent rotting by gently lifting it and putting cardboard or straw between the fruit and the soil.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Cucumber Beetles
Squash Vine Borer Moths
Fusarium Wilt
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
Everyone seems to love juicy watermelon in the summertime. Native to Africa, melons need warm temperatures (up to 80°F during the day) and a long growing season.
Gardeners in colder climates can still have success in growing watermelon vines by starting seeds indoors and choosing short-season varieties. Days to maturity range from 70 to 90, depending on the variety.
PLANTING
If you live in warmer climes, you can sow seeds directly outdoors, but wait until the soil temperature warms to at least 70°F to avoid poor germination.
Watermelon vines are very tender and should not be transplanted until all danger of frost has passed. (To be safe, wait at least two weeks past your last frost date.)
If you are in a cooler zone, start seeds indoors about a month before transplanting.
Amend soil with aged manure, seaweed, and/or compost before planting. Watermelons are heavy feeders.
Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6 and 6.8.
Growing the vines in raised rows, known as hills, ensures good drainage and will hold the sun’s heat longer. Space the plants about 2 feet apart in a 5-foot-wide hill.
If you’re growing in rows, space 6 feet by 6 feet apart.
Watermelons like loamy, well-drained soil. Handle them gently when you transplant.
After you transplant, cover the plants with row covers to keep pests at bay. You’ll remove the row covers when you see both male and female flowers on the vine.
CARE
Mulching with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.
Watering is very important—from planting until fruit begins to form. While melon plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Keep soil moist, but not waterlogged. Water at the vine’s base in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves and avoid overhead watering. Reduce watering once fruit are growing. Dry weather produces the sweetest melon.
If you choose to fertilize (and many do), make sure it delivers more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium. However, after flowering begins, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen. We like to use liquid seaweed.
Pruning isn’t necessary, but vine productivity may be improved if you do not allow lateral (side) vines to grow and stick to the main vine. When the plant is young, just cut off the end buds as they form (before the side shoots become vines). You can also pinch off some blossoms to focus the energy on fewer melons (though it’s a challenge to kill off a potential fruit).
Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. Do not be concerned if the male flowers fall off. The female flowers (which have a swollen bulb at the base) will stay on the vine and bear fruit.
Blossoms require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
As fruit is ripening, prevent rotting by gently lifting it and putting cardboard or straw between the fruit and the soil.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Cucumber Beetles
Squash Vine Borer Moths
Fusarium Wilt
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Fragaria
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Sweet, juicy strawberries are treats when right off the plant. Supermarket berries tend to be tart with grainy texture; this is because the natural sugar in the berries begins converting to starch as soon as it is plucked from the plant. It’s definitely worth your while to try growing strawberries, and the good news is that they are relatively easy to grow if you have full sun.
Strawberry plants come in three types:
Day-Neutral: Insensitive to day length, these varieties produce buds, fruits and runners continuously if temperature remains between 35 and 85. Production is less than that of Junebearers.
Everbearer: These varieties form buds during the long days of summer and the short days of autumn. The summer-formed buds flower and fruit in autumn, and the autumn-formed buds fruit the following spring.
Junebearer: Length-of-day sensitive, these varieties produce buds in the autumn, flowers and fruits the following spring, and runners during the long days of summer.
PLANTING
Buy disease-resistant plants from a reputable nursery, of a variety recommended in your area.
Plan to plant as soon as the ground can be worked in the Spring.
Strawberries are sprawling plants. Seedlings will send out runners, or ‘daughter’ plants, which in turn will send out their own runners.
Make planting holes deep and wide enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending it. However, don’t plant too deep: The roots should be covered, but the crown should be right at the soil surface.
Provide adequate space for sprawling. Set plants out 20 inches apart, and leave 4 feet between rows.
Roots shouldn’t be longer than 8 inches when plants are set out. Trim them if necessary.
pH should be between 5.5 and 7. If necessary, amend your soil in advance.
Strawberry plants require 6-10 hours a day of direct sunlight, so choose your planting site accordingly.
Tolerant of different soil types, although prefer loam. Begin working in aged manure or compost a couple months before planting.
Planting site must be well-drained. Raised beds are a particularly good option for strawberry plants.
Practice crop rotation for the most success. Do not plant in a site that recently had strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant.
Establish new plants each year to keep berry quality high each season.
It is also possible to grow strawberries from last year’s runners.
CARE
In the first year, pick off blossoms to discourage strawberry plants from fruiting. If not allowed to bear fruit, they will spend their food reserves on developing healthy roots. The yields will be much greater in the second year.
Eliminate daughter plants as needed. First and second generations produce higher yields. Try to space each plant about 10 inches apart.
Moisture is incredibly important due to shallow roots. Water adequately, about one inch per week. Strawberry plants need a lot of water when the runners and flowers are developing and again in the fall when the plants are mature.
Keep the beds mulched to reduce water needs and weed invasion.
Be diligent about weeding. Weed by hand, especially in the first months after planting.
When the growing season is over, mow or cut foliage down to one inch and mulch plants about 4 inches deep with straw, pine needles or other organic material. This can be done after the first couple of frosts, or when air temps reach 20° F.
Remove mulch in early spring, after danger of frost has passed.
Row covers are a good option for protecting blossoms and fruit from birds.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray Mold
Powdery Mildew
Japanese Beetles
Spider Mites
Slugs
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Sweet, juicy strawberries are treats when right off the plant. Supermarket berries tend to be tart with grainy texture; this is because the natural sugar in the berries begins converting to starch as soon as it is plucked from the plant. It’s definitely worth your while to try growing strawberries, and the good news is that they are relatively easy to grow if you have full sun.
Strawberry plants come in three types:
Day-Neutral: Insensitive to day length, these varieties produce buds, fruits and runners continuously if temperature remains between 35 and 85. Production is less than that of Junebearers.
Everbearer: These varieties form buds during the long days of summer and the short days of autumn. The summer-formed buds flower and fruit in autumn, and the autumn-formed buds fruit the following spring.
Junebearer: Length-of-day sensitive, these varieties produce buds in the autumn, flowers and fruits the following spring, and runners during the long days of summer.
PLANTING
Buy disease-resistant plants from a reputable nursery, of a variety recommended in your area.
Plan to plant as soon as the ground can be worked in the Spring.
Strawberries are sprawling plants. Seedlings will send out runners, or ‘daughter’ plants, which in turn will send out their own runners.
Make planting holes deep and wide enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending it. However, don’t plant too deep: The roots should be covered, but the crown should be right at the soil surface.
Provide adequate space for sprawling. Set plants out 20 inches apart, and leave 4 feet between rows.
Roots shouldn’t be longer than 8 inches when plants are set out. Trim them if necessary.
pH should be between 5.5 and 7. If necessary, amend your soil in advance.
Strawberry plants require 6-10 hours a day of direct sunlight, so choose your planting site accordingly.
Tolerant of different soil types, although prefer loam. Begin working in aged manure or compost a couple months before planting.
Planting site must be well-drained. Raised beds are a particularly good option for strawberry plants.
Practice crop rotation for the most success. Do not plant in a site that recently had strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant.
Establish new plants each year to keep berry quality high each season.
It is also possible to grow strawberries from last year’s runners.
CARE
In the first year, pick off blossoms to discourage strawberry plants from fruiting. If not allowed to bear fruit, they will spend their food reserves on developing healthy roots. The yields will be much greater in the second year.
Eliminate daughter plants as needed. First and second generations produce higher yields. Try to space each plant about 10 inches apart.
Moisture is incredibly important due to shallow roots. Water adequately, about one inch per week. Strawberry plants need a lot of water when the runners and flowers are developing and again in the fall when the plants are mature.
Keep the beds mulched to reduce water needs and weed invasion.
Be diligent about weeding. Weed by hand, especially in the first months after planting.
When the growing season is over, mow or cut foliage down to one inch and mulch plants about 4 inches deep with straw, pine needles or other organic material. This can be done after the first couple of frosts, or when air temps reach 20° F.
Remove mulch in early spring, after danger of frost has passed.
Row covers are a good option for protecting blossoms and fruit from birds.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray Mold
Powdery Mildew
Japanese Beetles
Spider Mites
Slugs
3
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Raspberries are relatively easy to grow and—with proper care—can bear fruit indefinitely! Though raspberry bushes are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, the plants now come in many varieties suited to a range of planting zones.
There are two types of raspberries, both with their own specific requirements for growing:
Summer-fruiting raspberries bear one crop per season, in summertime (often June or July).
Ever-bearing raspberries (also called fall-bearing or primocane-fruiting) bear a fall crop and can also produce fruit the following summer.
Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties and all are self-fertile, meaning you’ll get fruit with only one variety. They’re best pollinated by bees, and will start producing fruit a year after planting.
All raspberries will need pruning annually! Raspberries are perennials, however it’s important to realize that their branches (or canes) which bear the fruit live for only two summers. During the first year, the new green cane (primocane) grows vegetatively. The cane develops a brown bark, is dormant in winter, and during the second growing season is called a floricane. The floricane produces fruit in early to mid summer and then dies. New primocanes are produced each year, so fruit production continues year after year. It’s your job to prune out those dead canes each year.
PLANTING
Raspberry plants can be purchased as dormant, bare-root plants or as potted plants. Plant bare-root transplants in the early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant potted transplants in the spring after threat of frost has passed.
Pick a site with full sun to produce the most fruit. The plant will grow in part shade, but harvests will be meager.
Your site needs rich and well-drained soil, great air circulation, and shelter from wind. Avoid a wet area, as well as a windy spot, as raspberries do not like to stand in water nor dry out.
Prepare soil with a couple inches of compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting. (A good rate is about 3 ½ cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet.) Till the soil well before planting.
Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden.
Before planting, soak the roots for an hour or two.
Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread.
Whether you’re planting bare-root or potted plants, keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground.
Space red and yellow raspberry plants from 2 to 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart. Space black and purple types 4 feet apart.
Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.
CARE
Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
Water one inch per week from spring until after harvest. Regular watering is better than deep soaking.
The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them, so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.
Pruning
Summer-Bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year.
Red raspberries: Prune any time after the last harvest and before growth begins in the spring. Cut all canes that produced fruit to the ground. Thin to 6 sturdy canes per hill (per foot of row). In areas where winter injury is common, you may delay thinning the primocanes until the following spring, when you will be able to tell which canes have survived. Before growth starts in spring, cut the canes to about 12 inches above the support. Don’t cut back more than 25% of each cane, to avoid reducing yield.
Black and purple raspberries: When primocanes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching. This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production. After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level. Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches so they are 12 to 18 inches long. Select 6 canes per hill, and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
Ever-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries
This is easy. Just cut all canes to the ground any time after harvest and before growth begins in the spring. They give fruit on canes which are in their first year of growth, after which there is no reason to keep them. Mow them to the ground or use pruning shears for a small patch.
Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter.
Pruning is not required during the growing season unless you want to keep a uniform order.
Note: The above assumes you are harvesting a fall crop. To get both fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips.
PESTS/DISEASES
Raspberries are one of the few fruits that are hardly bothered by pests and diseases. (Black raspberries are more susceptible to this type of damage than red or purple.)
Keep an eye out for spider mites and Japanese beetles from June through August.
Rabbits love to eat the canes in winter. A chicken wire fence will help prevent rabbit damage.
Powdery Mildew
Cane Borers
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Raspberries are relatively easy to grow and—with proper care—can bear fruit indefinitely! Though raspberry bushes are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, the plants now come in many varieties suited to a range of planting zones.
There are two types of raspberries, both with their own specific requirements for growing:
Summer-fruiting raspberries bear one crop per season, in summertime (often June or July).
Ever-bearing raspberries (also called fall-bearing or primocane-fruiting) bear a fall crop and can also produce fruit the following summer.
Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties and all are self-fertile, meaning you’ll get fruit with only one variety. They’re best pollinated by bees, and will start producing fruit a year after planting.
All raspberries will need pruning annually! Raspberries are perennials, however it’s important to realize that their branches (or canes) which bear the fruit live for only two summers. During the first year, the new green cane (primocane) grows vegetatively. The cane develops a brown bark, is dormant in winter, and during the second growing season is called a floricane. The floricane produces fruit in early to mid summer and then dies. New primocanes are produced each year, so fruit production continues year after year. It’s your job to prune out those dead canes each year.
PLANTING
Raspberry plants can be purchased as dormant, bare-root plants or as potted plants. Plant bare-root transplants in the early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant potted transplants in the spring after threat of frost has passed.
Pick a site with full sun to produce the most fruit. The plant will grow in part shade, but harvests will be meager.
Your site needs rich and well-drained soil, great air circulation, and shelter from wind. Avoid a wet area, as well as a windy spot, as raspberries do not like to stand in water nor dry out.
Prepare soil with a couple inches of compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting. (A good rate is about 3 ½ cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet.) Till the soil well before planting.
Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden.
Before planting, soak the roots for an hour or two.
Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread.
Whether you’re planting bare-root or potted plants, keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground.
Space red and yellow raspberry plants from 2 to 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart. Space black and purple types 4 feet apart.
Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.
CARE
Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
Water one inch per week from spring until after harvest. Regular watering is better than deep soaking.
The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them, so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.
Pruning
Summer-Bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year.
Red raspberries: Prune any time after the last harvest and before growth begins in the spring. Cut all canes that produced fruit to the ground. Thin to 6 sturdy canes per hill (per foot of row). In areas where winter injury is common, you may delay thinning the primocanes until the following spring, when you will be able to tell which canes have survived. Before growth starts in spring, cut the canes to about 12 inches above the support. Don’t cut back more than 25% of each cane, to avoid reducing yield.
Black and purple raspberries: When primocanes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching. This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production. After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level. Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches so they are 12 to 18 inches long. Select 6 canes per hill, and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
Ever-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries
This is easy. Just cut all canes to the ground any time after harvest and before growth begins in the spring. They give fruit on canes which are in their first year of growth, after which there is no reason to keep them. Mow them to the ground or use pruning shears for a small patch.
Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter.
Pruning is not required during the growing season unless you want to keep a uniform order.
Note: The above assumes you are harvesting a fall crop. To get both fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips.
PESTS/DISEASES
Raspberries are one of the few fruits that are hardly bothered by pests and diseases. (Black raspberries are more susceptible to this type of damage than red or purple.)
Keep an eye out for spider mites and Japanese beetles from June through August.
Rabbits love to eat the canes in winter. A chicken wire fence will help prevent rabbit damage.
Powdery Mildew
Cane Borers
2
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Plums are a good choice for beginner gardeners who want to grow fruit trees, as plum trees are widely adapted, more compact, and require less care than most other fruit trees. Not only are plums delicious, but the trees themselves add beauty to any garden.
PLANTING
Be prepared to plant more than one type of plum tree because many types require cross-pollination to produce fruit, although there are some varieties that can produce fruit on their own.
It is also important to choose a type that will work with your location. There are three categories of plum trees: European, Japanese, and Damson. The hardy European types work in most regions across the U.S., whereas the Japanese types flourish where peach trees thrive. There are also American hybrids that work well in regions where neither European or Japanese types survive.
Plant plum trees in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Avoid planting in low areas where frost may settle, as the frost will damage your trees.
If possible, find a sheltered position, such as a south- or west-facing spot out of the wind. This will help the plum tree set fruit.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, keep the graft union 1 inch above the soil line when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 15 to 20 feet apart.
CARE
Thinning plum trees is important to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of the fruit. If branches do break, prune them back to undamaged wood, ideally cutting back to a natural fork to avoid leaving stubs.
Be sure to water the young trees heavily every week during the first growing season to help promote growth. Then, water regularly. It’s best to water the plant deeply at the soil line, then let the soil dry out (though not completely) and water again.
Water your tree well into mid-October to give it plenty of moisture through the winter months.
Do not fertilize young fruit trees until they have set a crop.
Once established, fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. If there’s good fruit set, fertilize with one pound calcium nitrate per tree or 1½ lb. 10-10-10. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons.
In the fall, rake away all debris and fallen trees.
Prune in early spring or mid-summer to avoid infection. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones.
Do NOT prune in the fall or winter injury and infection may occur.
Are you having pest issues? Talk to your local cooperative extension or garden center about a spray program.
To help control pests and diseases, remember to prune your trees to keep them open. You can also mulch around the trees in the spring to help control weeds, but be sure to remove the mulch in the late fall so that no pests use it over the winter. You can also lightly cultivate the soil around your trees in late spring to eliminate any pests in the soil.
To prevent winter injury: Consider a tree wrap or guard around the lower trunk, especially for a young plum tree.
Keep an eye on the lower bark and branches for mouse or rabbit damage; if this could be a problem, you may need to install tree guards or fence in young trees with chicken wire for the winter.
Pruning: Japanese Plum Trees
If you have a Japanese variety, the best pruning method is to create an “open center” shape, where the central trunk is cut short and several large branches radiate outwards from it’s tip. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
Japanese types require heavy pruning to help keep them in shape and to produce better fruit. It is also good to thin out the fruit on these types of trees. You should space the plums about 3 to 4 inches apart on each branch.
Pruning: European Plum Trees
If you have a European variety, the best pruning method is to create a central leader. This shape features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
European types do not require fruit thinning because they do not produce as much fruit as Japanese types. However, the fruit on these types should be spaced about 2 inches apart on each branch.
PESTS/DISEASES
Silver leaf disease
Honey fungus
Bacterial canker
Pocket plum
Japanese beetles
Plum aphids
Plum moth
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Plums are a good choice for beginner gardeners who want to grow fruit trees, as plum trees are widely adapted, more compact, and require less care than most other fruit trees. Not only are plums delicious, but the trees themselves add beauty to any garden.
PLANTING
Be prepared to plant more than one type of plum tree because many types require cross-pollination to produce fruit, although there are some varieties that can produce fruit on their own.
It is also important to choose a type that will work with your location. There are three categories of plum trees: European, Japanese, and Damson. The hardy European types work in most regions across the U.S., whereas the Japanese types flourish where peach trees thrive. There are also American hybrids that work well in regions where neither European or Japanese types survive.
Plant plum trees in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Avoid planting in low areas where frost may settle, as the frost will damage your trees.
If possible, find a sheltered position, such as a south- or west-facing spot out of the wind. This will help the plum tree set fruit.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, keep the graft union 1 inch above the soil line when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 15 to 20 feet apart.
CARE
Thinning plum trees is important to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of the fruit. If branches do break, prune them back to undamaged wood, ideally cutting back to a natural fork to avoid leaving stubs.
Be sure to water the young trees heavily every week during the first growing season to help promote growth. Then, water regularly. It’s best to water the plant deeply at the soil line, then let the soil dry out (though not completely) and water again.
Water your tree well into mid-October to give it plenty of moisture through the winter months.
Do not fertilize young fruit trees until they have set a crop.
Once established, fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. If there’s good fruit set, fertilize with one pound calcium nitrate per tree or 1½ lb. 10-10-10. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons.
In the fall, rake away all debris and fallen trees.
Prune in early spring or mid-summer to avoid infection. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones.
Do NOT prune in the fall or winter injury and infection may occur.
Are you having pest issues? Talk to your local cooperative extension or garden center about a spray program.
To help control pests and diseases, remember to prune your trees to keep them open. You can also mulch around the trees in the spring to help control weeds, but be sure to remove the mulch in the late fall so that no pests use it over the winter. You can also lightly cultivate the soil around your trees in late spring to eliminate any pests in the soil.
To prevent winter injury: Consider a tree wrap or guard around the lower trunk, especially for a young plum tree.
Keep an eye on the lower bark and branches for mouse or rabbit damage; if this could be a problem, you may need to install tree guards or fence in young trees with chicken wire for the winter.
Pruning: Japanese Plum Trees
If you have a Japanese variety, the best pruning method is to create an “open center” shape, where the central trunk is cut short and several large branches radiate outwards from it’s tip. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
Japanese types require heavy pruning to help keep them in shape and to produce better fruit. It is also good to thin out the fruit on these types of trees. You should space the plums about 3 to 4 inches apart on each branch.
Pruning: European Plum Trees
If you have a European variety, the best pruning method is to create a central leader. This shape features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
European types do not require fruit thinning because they do not produce as much fruit as Japanese types. However, the fruit on these types should be spaced about 2 inches apart on each branch.
PESTS/DISEASES
Silver leaf disease
Honey fungus
Bacterial canker
Pocket plum
Japanese beetles
Plum aphids
Plum moth
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pyrus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Biting into a juicy pear is one of the joys of the season. See how to plant, grow, and harvest pears in your own backyard. They are easy to fit into small yard spaces, and attractive, and require very little care once established.
Also, growing pears is generally easier than growing apples, as they have less pest and disease issues.
Most pear trees are not self-pollinating so plan for at least two trees to ensure consistent fruit.
There are many different types of pears; some are best eaten raw and some are best for cooking.
You can also grow pears in containers—and plant at any time of the year. (Make sure you purchase pears specifically bred for containers.)
Be aware that pears can take from 3 to 10 years to bear fruit. Once they start producing, pear trees are prolific and long-lasting!
PLANTING
If you live outside of the dry western regions, you should choose fire blight–resistant types and rootstocks.
Plan to plant at least two varieties of pear trees, as they will need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. Make sure the varieties are compatible with each other.
Plant in any fertile, well-drained soil in full sun in a place with good air circulation in the winter or early spring.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 12 to 15 feet apart.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Do not add fertilizer or topsoil to the hole.
CARE
Water the young trees well during dry spells to help establish the roots.
Apply a small amount of fertilizer early in the year. Add ⅛ pound of ammonium nitrate per tree multiplied by the number of years the tree has been set in moderately fertile soil. If you have highly fertile soil, use less fertilizer.
If the leaves are pale green or yellowish during the summer, use a little more fertilizer the next year.
If the tree grows more than 12 inches in one season, use less fertilizer the next year.
Be very careful when applying fertilizer! If you give your trees too much nitrogen, they will become more susceptible to fire blight and also may focus too much energy on producing foliage instead of flowers and fruit.
For dwarf trees, prune them to a central leader system. Standard-size trees can be pruned to either a central leader system or a modified leader system, which is easier to maintain.
The central leader system features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
Use spreaders to help shape the branches of the trees. These help the branches to spread outward rather than upward. When the branches are small, you can use clothespins to push the branches away from the main trunk. For bigger branches, use wooden slats with a “V” shape notched into each end.
Prune your trees regularly, generally lightly. Remember to thin the fruit as well, leaving about 6 inches between each cluster of fruit per branch.
After your trees are established, water them regularly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Fire blight
Pear psylla
Aphids
Mites
Powdery mildew
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Biting into a juicy pear is one of the joys of the season. See how to plant, grow, and harvest pears in your own backyard. They are easy to fit into small yard spaces, and attractive, and require very little care once established.
Also, growing pears is generally easier than growing apples, as they have less pest and disease issues.
Most pear trees are not self-pollinating so plan for at least two trees to ensure consistent fruit.
There are many different types of pears; some are best eaten raw and some are best for cooking.
You can also grow pears in containers—and plant at any time of the year. (Make sure you purchase pears specifically bred for containers.)
Be aware that pears can take from 3 to 10 years to bear fruit. Once they start producing, pear trees are prolific and long-lasting!
PLANTING
If you live outside of the dry western regions, you should choose fire blight–resistant types and rootstocks.
Plan to plant at least two varieties of pear trees, as they will need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. Make sure the varieties are compatible with each other.
Plant in any fertile, well-drained soil in full sun in a place with good air circulation in the winter or early spring.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 12 to 15 feet apart.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Do not add fertilizer or topsoil to the hole.
CARE
Water the young trees well during dry spells to help establish the roots.
Apply a small amount of fertilizer early in the year. Add ⅛ pound of ammonium nitrate per tree multiplied by the number of years the tree has been set in moderately fertile soil. If you have highly fertile soil, use less fertilizer.
If the leaves are pale green or yellowish during the summer, use a little more fertilizer the next year.
If the tree grows more than 12 inches in one season, use less fertilizer the next year.
Be very careful when applying fertilizer! If you give your trees too much nitrogen, they will become more susceptible to fire blight and also may focus too much energy on producing foliage instead of flowers and fruit.
For dwarf trees, prune them to a central leader system. Standard-size trees can be pruned to either a central leader system or a modified leader system, which is easier to maintain.
The central leader system features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
Use spreaders to help shape the branches of the trees. These help the branches to spread outward rather than upward. When the branches are small, you can use clothespins to push the branches away from the main trunk. For bigger branches, use wooden slats with a “V” shape notched into each end.
Prune your trees regularly, generally lightly. Remember to thin the fruit as well, leaving about 6 inches between each cluster of fruit per branch.
After your trees are established, water them regularly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Fire blight
Pear psylla
Aphids
Mites
Powdery mildew
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus persica
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Peaches are a well-known, delicious fruit that can be grown right at home. The trick to growing your very own peaches is to choose a type that will fit with your specific climate.
PLANTING
Peach trees can grow in USDA Zones 5 to 8, but do especially well in Zones 6 and 7.
If you live in one of these zones, you can focus on choosing a variety based on its flavor and harvest-time. If you live in colder regions, there are some varieties that are more cold tolerant that you can choose.
Choose a site with well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Be sure to avoid low areas because frost can more easily settle there and destroy your peaches.
Plant the trees in spring. It is best to plant the trees the day you get them (if possible). Pick a tree that is about 1 year old.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
If you are planting standard-size trees, space them 15 to 20 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 10 to 12 feet apart. However, most types of peach trees are self-fertile, so planting one tree at a time is fine.
AN ALTERNATIVE PLANTING METHOD
If your circumstances are suitable, you might want to try a technique practiced in England. It involves planting a peach tree—ideally a dwarf variety—on the south side of the home or other building, under the eaves of the it. Over time, the gardener prunes and trains the peach tree to espalier in a fan-shape against or very near to the wall of the house. Plastic sheeting is attached to the eaves and draped to cover but not touch the tree, similar to a lean-to. This keeps the tree dry in winter, and the tree enjoys the warms of the sun, directly and as reflected off the house, year round. The plastic should be opened or lifted during bloom time to welcome pollinating insects and on hot, sunny days to ventilate the tree and prevent foliage burn.
CARE
About 6 weeks after planting, fertilize the young trees with 1 pound of a nitrogen fertilizer.
During the second year, add ¾ pound of nitrogen fertilizer once in the spring and once in the early summer.
After the third year, add about 1 pound of actual nitrogen per year to the mature trees in the spring.
To help make the tree hardier, do not fertilize it within 2 months of the first fall frost date or when the fruits are maturing.
Be sure to prune the tree to an open center shape. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
Be sure to prune the tree annually to encourage production. Pruning is usually done mid to late April. Pinching the trees in the summer is also helpful.
Prune and fertilize to accomplish 10-18 inches of new growth each season.
Thin the fruits so that they are 6 to 8 inches apart on the branch after the tree blooms (about 4 to 6 weeks). This ensures that the fruits will be larger.
To help increase resistance to fruit diseases, be sure to prune the trees, thin the fruit, and pick the fruit when it is ripe.
PESTS/DISEASES
Borers
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leaf hoppers
Brown rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Mosaic viruses
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Peaches are a well-known, delicious fruit that can be grown right at home. The trick to growing your very own peaches is to choose a type that will fit with your specific climate.
PLANTING
Peach trees can grow in USDA Zones 5 to 8, but do especially well in Zones 6 and 7.
If you live in one of these zones, you can focus on choosing a variety based on its flavor and harvest-time. If you live in colder regions, there are some varieties that are more cold tolerant that you can choose.
Choose a site with well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Be sure to avoid low areas because frost can more easily settle there and destroy your peaches.
Plant the trees in spring. It is best to plant the trees the day you get them (if possible). Pick a tree that is about 1 year old.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
If you are planting standard-size trees, space them 15 to 20 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 10 to 12 feet apart. However, most types of peach trees are self-fertile, so planting one tree at a time is fine.
AN ALTERNATIVE PLANTING METHOD
If your circumstances are suitable, you might want to try a technique practiced in England. It involves planting a peach tree—ideally a dwarf variety—on the south side of the home or other building, under the eaves of the it. Over time, the gardener prunes and trains the peach tree to espalier in a fan-shape against or very near to the wall of the house. Plastic sheeting is attached to the eaves and draped to cover but not touch the tree, similar to a lean-to. This keeps the tree dry in winter, and the tree enjoys the warms of the sun, directly and as reflected off the house, year round. The plastic should be opened or lifted during bloom time to welcome pollinating insects and on hot, sunny days to ventilate the tree and prevent foliage burn.
CARE
About 6 weeks after planting, fertilize the young trees with 1 pound of a nitrogen fertilizer.
During the second year, add ¾ pound of nitrogen fertilizer once in the spring and once in the early summer.
After the third year, add about 1 pound of actual nitrogen per year to the mature trees in the spring.
To help make the tree hardier, do not fertilize it within 2 months of the first fall frost date or when the fruits are maturing.
Be sure to prune the tree to an open center shape. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
Be sure to prune the tree annually to encourage production. Pruning is usually done mid to late April. Pinching the trees in the summer is also helpful.
Prune and fertilize to accomplish 10-18 inches of new growth each season.
Thin the fruits so that they are 6 to 8 inches apart on the branch after the tree blooms (about 4 to 6 weeks). This ensures that the fruits will be larger.
To help increase resistance to fruit diseases, be sure to prune the trees, thin the fruit, and pick the fruit when it is ripe.
PESTS/DISEASES
Borers
Aphids
Japanese beetles
Leaf hoppers
Brown rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf curl
Mosaic viruses
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus spp
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Standard-size grapefruit and orange trees can grow 18 to 22 feet tall, whereas dwarf varieties only grow 8 to 12 feet tall.
Most citrus varieties are self-fertile, so only one tree is needed for fruit production. On average, fruit bearing begins when the trees are between 3 and 6 years old; however, exact timing will depend on the type of citrus (lemons, oranges, grapefruit, etc.), the cultivar, your climate, the health of the plant and its care, and other factors. Flowering is not seasonal, but occurs during warm weather and regular rainfall. Flowers and fruits may coincide.
PLANTING
Citrus trees should be planted in a sunny and wind-protected area.
In the citrus belt (a loosely defined area stretching from southern California to Florida), trees can be planted at any time, however, spring is the best time for container-grown plants.
Standard-size citrus trees should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart and dwarf citrus trees should be set 6 to 10 feet apart. The exact distance depends on the variety. The bigger the fruit, the farther the distance.
If the soil is not well-drained, plant the trees on a slight mound to prevent waterlogging.
To plant citrus trees inside from seeds, remove the seeds from the desired fruit. Soak the seeds overnight in water and plant them ½ inch deep in moist potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or wrap and let it sit in a warm and sunny spot for a few weeks until the seeds start to grow. Then, remove the plastic but keep the pot near a warm and sunny window.
CARE
A few weeks after planting, and for the first few years (before bearing age), feed the tree a balanced (such as 6-6-6) fertilizer. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
For newly bearing trees, provide nutrients to continue branch and leaf growth, but also to replace nutrients lost by fruit forming. A citrus blend is ideal.
Check manufacturer’s directions, ask a garden nursery, or consult your local cooperative extension as to how often and how much fertilizer to apply during each year of a tree’s growth.
Mulches are not recommended for citrus trees, but if trees are located in a cultivated plant bed where mulch is used, keep at least 12 inches of bare ground between the tree trunk and the mulch. Pre-emergent herbicides may be used to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Fruit thinning is unnecessary for citrus trees, as they typically experience something called the “June drop.” In late spring or early summer (May or June for most of the country), citrus trees naturally drop a number of their immature fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Spider Mites
Root and Crown Rots
Fungal Leaf Spots
Fruit Flies
Tristeza Virus spread by Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Standard-size grapefruit and orange trees can grow 18 to 22 feet tall, whereas dwarf varieties only grow 8 to 12 feet tall.
Most citrus varieties are self-fertile, so only one tree is needed for fruit production. On average, fruit bearing begins when the trees are between 3 and 6 years old; however, exact timing will depend on the type of citrus (lemons, oranges, grapefruit, etc.), the cultivar, your climate, the health of the plant and its care, and other factors. Flowering is not seasonal, but occurs during warm weather and regular rainfall. Flowers and fruits may coincide.
PLANTING
Citrus trees should be planted in a sunny and wind-protected area.
In the citrus belt (a loosely defined area stretching from southern California to Florida), trees can be planted at any time, however, spring is the best time for container-grown plants.
Standard-size citrus trees should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart and dwarf citrus trees should be set 6 to 10 feet apart. The exact distance depends on the variety. The bigger the fruit, the farther the distance.
If the soil is not well-drained, plant the trees on a slight mound to prevent waterlogging.
To plant citrus trees inside from seeds, remove the seeds from the desired fruit. Soak the seeds overnight in water and plant them ½ inch deep in moist potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or wrap and let it sit in a warm and sunny spot for a few weeks until the seeds start to grow. Then, remove the plastic but keep the pot near a warm and sunny window.
CARE
A few weeks after planting, and for the first few years (before bearing age), feed the tree a balanced (such as 6-6-6) fertilizer. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
For newly bearing trees, provide nutrients to continue branch and leaf growth, but also to replace nutrients lost by fruit forming. A citrus blend is ideal.
Check manufacturer’s directions, ask a garden nursery, or consult your local cooperative extension as to how often and how much fertilizer to apply during each year of a tree’s growth.
Mulches are not recommended for citrus trees, but if trees are located in a cultivated plant bed where mulch is used, keep at least 12 inches of bare ground between the tree trunk and the mulch. Pre-emergent herbicides may be used to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Fruit thinning is unnecessary for citrus trees, as they typically experience something called the “June drop.” In late spring or early summer (May or June for most of the country), citrus trees naturally drop a number of their immature fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Spider Mites
Root and Crown Rots
Fungal Leaf Spots
Fruit Flies
Tristeza Virus spread by Aphids
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Vitis
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Grape vines not only produce sweet and versatile fruits, they add an element of drama to a garden or landscape. They are vigorous growers, and with the proper pruning, they will produce fruit with ease and can last longer than 30 years.
There are three different types of grapes: American (V. labrusca), European (V. viniferia), and North American native Muscadine (V. rotundifolia). American grapes are the most cold-hardy, while European grapes, usually more for wine than the table, do well in warm, dry, Mediterranean type zones. Hybrids are available. Thick skinned Muscadines thrive in the South.
Make sure you purchase grape vines from a reputable nursery. Vigorous, 1-year-old plants are best. Smaller, sometimes weaker, 1-year-old plants are often held over by the nursery to grow another year and are then sold as 2-year-old stock. Obtain certified virus-free stock when possible.
PLANTING
Plant dormant, bare-root grape vines in the early spring.
Construct a trellis or arbor before planting. Grape vines will need to be trained to some sort of support to grow upward. This will also cut the risk of disease.
Most grape varieties are self-fertile. To be sure, ask when you are buying vines if you will need more than one plant for pollination.
Before planting grapevines, soak their roots in water for two or three hours.
Select a site with full sun. If you don’t have a spot with full sun, make sure it at least gets morning sun. A small amount of afternoon shade won’t hurt. Your soil needs to be deep, well-drained, and loose. You also need good air circulation.
Space vines 6 to 10 feet apart (16 feet for muscadines).
For each vine, dig a planting hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill with 4 inches of topsoil. Trim off broken roots and set the vine into the hole slightly deeper than it grew in the nursery. Cover the roots with 6 inches of soil and tamp down. Fill with the remaining soil, but don’t tamp this down.
Prune the top back to two or three buds at planting time.
Water at time of planting.
CARE
In the first couple of years, the vine should not be allowed to produce fruit. It needs to strengthen its root system before it can support the extra weight of fruit.
Pruning is important. Not only would vines run rampant without control, but canes will only produce fruit once. Prune annually when vines are dormant, in March or April. This is before the buds start to swell, but when winter damage is apparent.
Don’t be afraid to remove at least 90 percent of the previous season’s growth. This will ensure a higher quality product. Remember, the more you prune, the more grapes you will have.
In the first year, cut back all buds except for 2 or 3. Then, select a couple of strong canes and cut back the rest. Make sure the remaining canes are fastened to the support.
In the second year, prune back all canes. Leave a couple of buds on each of the arms. Remove flower clusters as they form.
Do not fertilize in the first year unless you have problem soil. Fertilize lightly in the second year of growth.
Use mulch to keep an even amount of moisture around the vines.
A mesh net is useful in keeping birds away from budding fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Japanese Beetles
Powdery Mildew
Black Rot
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Grape vines not only produce sweet and versatile fruits, they add an element of drama to a garden or landscape. They are vigorous growers, and with the proper pruning, they will produce fruit with ease and can last longer than 30 years.
There are three different types of grapes: American (V. labrusca), European (V. viniferia), and North American native Muscadine (V. rotundifolia). American grapes are the most cold-hardy, while European grapes, usually more for wine than the table, do well in warm, dry, Mediterranean type zones. Hybrids are available. Thick skinned Muscadines thrive in the South.
Make sure you purchase grape vines from a reputable nursery. Vigorous, 1-year-old plants are best. Smaller, sometimes weaker, 1-year-old plants are often held over by the nursery to grow another year and are then sold as 2-year-old stock. Obtain certified virus-free stock when possible.
PLANTING
Plant dormant, bare-root grape vines in the early spring.
Construct a trellis or arbor before planting. Grape vines will need to be trained to some sort of support to grow upward. This will also cut the risk of disease.
Most grape varieties are self-fertile. To be sure, ask when you are buying vines if you will need more than one plant for pollination.
Before planting grapevines, soak their roots in water for two or three hours.
Select a site with full sun. If you don’t have a spot with full sun, make sure it at least gets morning sun. A small amount of afternoon shade won’t hurt. Your soil needs to be deep, well-drained, and loose. You also need good air circulation.
Space vines 6 to 10 feet apart (16 feet for muscadines).
For each vine, dig a planting hole 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Fill with 4 inches of topsoil. Trim off broken roots and set the vine into the hole slightly deeper than it grew in the nursery. Cover the roots with 6 inches of soil and tamp down. Fill with the remaining soil, but don’t tamp this down.
Prune the top back to two or three buds at planting time.
Water at time of planting.
CARE
In the first couple of years, the vine should not be allowed to produce fruit. It needs to strengthen its root system before it can support the extra weight of fruit.
Pruning is important. Not only would vines run rampant without control, but canes will only produce fruit once. Prune annually when vines are dormant, in March or April. This is before the buds start to swell, but when winter damage is apparent.
Don’t be afraid to remove at least 90 percent of the previous season’s growth. This will ensure a higher quality product. Remember, the more you prune, the more grapes you will have.
In the first year, cut back all buds except for 2 or 3. Then, select a couple of strong canes and cut back the rest. Make sure the remaining canes are fastened to the support.
In the second year, prune back all canes. Leave a couple of buds on each of the arms. Remove flower clusters as they form.
Do not fertilize in the first year unless you have problem soil. Fertilize lightly in the second year of growth.
Use mulch to keep an even amount of moisture around the vines.
A mesh net is useful in keeping birds away from budding fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Japanese Beetles
Powdery Mildew
Black Rot
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