文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tulipa
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: GreenMulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Long live the tulip! This brightly colored jewel of spring is a perennial flower that grows best in areas with cold winters and dry summers.
There’s a tulip for every setting, from small “species” tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders.
The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet.
By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors. Most are excellent for cut flowers, too.
Although tulips are a perennial, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can’t replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in our western mountain regions come closest to this climate.
PLANTING
Plant tulip bulbs in the fall, 6 to 8 weeks before a hard frost is expected and when soils are below 60 degrees F. (See our frost dates.) This is usually during September and October in the north, and October and November in the south. To find the best dates, see our fall bulb planting chart.
Nature never intended for bulbs to loll about above ground, so don’t delay planting the bulbs after purchase.
In southern climates with mild winters, you need to buy pre-chilled bulbs or chill them yourself in the refrigerator for about 12 weeks before planting.
When selecting a site: Tulips prefer a site with full or afternoon sun. In Zones 7 and 8, choose a shady site or one with morning sun only. Soil must be well-draining, neutral to slightly acidic, fertile, and dry or sandy. All tulips dislike areas with excessive moisture. Tall varieties should be sheltered from strong winds.
Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
You’ll want to space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart, so choose an appropriate plot size.
Plant bulbs deep—at least 8 inches, measuring from the base of the bulb. And that means digging even deeper, to loosen the soil and allow for drainage, or creating raised beds. Remember, the bigger the bulb, the deeper the hole it needs.
Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up. Cover with soil and press soil firmly.
Water bulbs right after planting. Although they can’t bear wet feet, bulbs need water to trigger growth.
To deter mice and moles—if they have been a problem—put holly or any other thorny leaves in the planting holes. Some gardeners use kitty litter or crushed gravel. If ravenous voles and rodents are a real problem, you may need to take stronger measures, such as planting bulbs in a buried wire cages.
If you’re planning to raise perennial tulips, feed them when you plant them in the fall. Bulbs are their own complete storage system and contain all of the nutrients they need for one year. Use organic material, compost, or a balanced time-release bulb food.
Don’t lose hope if you’re planting your tulips late in the season—just use these tips.
CARE
Water tulips during dry spells in the fall; otherwise, do not water.
Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or anything to foster swift drainage.
Compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms.
Deadhead tulips after flowering.
Allow the foliage to yellow for about 6 weeks after flowering before removing it.
Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Slugs
Snails
Aphids
Nematodes
Bulb rot
Squirrels, rabbits, mice, and voles are especially fond of tulip bulbs.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: GreenMulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Long live the tulip! This brightly colored jewel of spring is a perennial flower that grows best in areas with cold winters and dry summers.
There’s a tulip for every setting, from small “species” tulips in naturalized woodland areas to larger tulips that fit formal garden plantings from beds to borders.
The upright flowers may be single or double, and vary in shape from simple cups, bowls, and goblets to more complex forms. Height ranges from 6 inches to 2 feet.
By planting varieties with different bloom times, you can have tulips blooming from early to late spring. Some types are good for forcing into bloom indoors. Most are excellent for cut flowers, too.
Although tulips are a perennial, many gardeners treat them as annuals, planting new bulbs every autumn. The North American climate and soil can’t replicate the ancient Anatolian and southern Russian conditions of their birth. Gardeners in our western mountain regions come closest to this climate.
PLANTING
Plant tulip bulbs in the fall, 6 to 8 weeks before a hard frost is expected and when soils are below 60 degrees F. (See our frost dates.) This is usually during September and October in the north, and October and November in the south. To find the best dates, see our fall bulb planting chart.
Nature never intended for bulbs to loll about above ground, so don’t delay planting the bulbs after purchase.
In southern climates with mild winters, you need to buy pre-chilled bulbs or chill them yourself in the refrigerator for about 12 weeks before planting.
When selecting a site: Tulips prefer a site with full or afternoon sun. In Zones 7 and 8, choose a shady site or one with morning sun only. Soil must be well-draining, neutral to slightly acidic, fertile, and dry or sandy. All tulips dislike areas with excessive moisture. Tall varieties should be sheltered from strong winds.
Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
You’ll want to space bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart, so choose an appropriate plot size.
Plant bulbs deep—at least 8 inches, measuring from the base of the bulb. And that means digging even deeper, to loosen the soil and allow for drainage, or creating raised beds. Remember, the bigger the bulb, the deeper the hole it needs.
Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up. Cover with soil and press soil firmly.
Water bulbs right after planting. Although they can’t bear wet feet, bulbs need water to trigger growth.
To deter mice and moles—if they have been a problem—put holly or any other thorny leaves in the planting holes. Some gardeners use kitty litter or crushed gravel. If ravenous voles and rodents are a real problem, you may need to take stronger measures, such as planting bulbs in a buried wire cages.
If you’re planning to raise perennial tulips, feed them when you plant them in the fall. Bulbs are their own complete storage system and contain all of the nutrients they need for one year. Use organic material, compost, or a balanced time-release bulb food.
Don’t lose hope if you’re planting your tulips late in the season—just use these tips.
CARE
Water tulips during dry spells in the fall; otherwise, do not water.
Rainy summers, irrigation systems, and wet soil are death to tulips. Never deliberately water a bulb bed. Wet soil leads to fungus and disease and can rot bulbs. Add shredded pine bark, sand, or anything to foster swift drainage.
Compost annually to provide nutrients needed for future blooms.
Deadhead tulips after flowering.
Allow the foliage to yellow for about 6 weeks after flowering before removing it.
Large varieties may need replanting every few years; small types usually multiply and spread on their own.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Slugs
Snails
Aphids
Nematodes
Bulb rot
Squirrels, rabbits, mice, and voles are especially fond of tulip bulbs.
1
1
早起的虫儿：可以说点能听懂的吗
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Lathyrus odoratus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With their fragile, seductive fragrance, Sweet peas make great flowers for gardens and bouquets. These pea-like flowering annuals grow in many lovely colors and are suitable for a border, a woodland garden, and a trellis or arch.
Cultivated sweet peas go back at least 300 years. In their native Sicily, these ornamental peas have weak stems and an intense orange-jasmine-honey scent. Modern hybrids are stronger-stalked and have larger blooms.
Growing sweet peas is akin to making a pie crust. Some people have the knack, others don’t. Sweet peas are quite hardy, growing from large, easy-to-handle, pea-like seeds. Still, they’re a bit tricky because they are slow to germinate. It’s worth experimenting with different seeds each year.
PLANTING
Early sowing is one of the secrets of sweet peas. In Zone 7 or colder, plant them in very late winter or early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. (Do not wait until last frost.) In the coldest parts of the country, get a jump on the season by starting sweet peas indoors in six-packs or Jiffy pots. Harden seedlings off for at least a week, and then set them out into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. If you garden in mild winter climates (Zones 8, 9, or 10), plant sweet peas in the late fall so they can develop and bloom in late winter and early spring.
Sweet peas are happiest with their heads in the sun and their roots deep in cool, moist soil. When possible, plant low-growing annuals in front of them to shade their roots.
Choose a well-drained site. Alkaline soil is best; sprinkle some powdered lime on the surface if your soil tends to be acidic.
Prepare a rich soil by mixing in generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure to a depth of 2 feet. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Prior to planting, you’re going to want to dig a nice deep trench of about 4 inches in depth.
After you dig the trench, make holes with a pencil, drop in the seeds, and press down on the soil to firm it and shut out any light.
Before planting, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Then nick the seeds with a nail file before planting to speed sprouting. You do not need to soak seeds in a temperate climate.
CARE
Once planted, germination can take 7 to 15 days, depending on the soil temperature.
As seedlings emerge and grow, gradually fill in the trench. Hoe more soil up to them.
Keep soil moist. Summer rain may be ample. If you put your finger into the soil bed to its first joint and the soil is dry: water them at the soil level and do so in the morning; sweet peas can suffer from bud drop.
If you use plenty of aged manure and compost when planting, you do not need to fertilize. If you do want to add nourishment, use high potash feeds, as nitrogen feeds encourage too much top growth.
Sweet peas prefer cool days and nights and will start to fade when temperatures go above 65°F.
Except for the bush types, sweet peas are real climbers. Give them at least 6 feet of good support. Some varieties may climb to 9 or 10 feet. If you don’t have a fence or trellis, provide brush or chicken wire or bushy, stubbly twigs that they can cling to.
When plants become established, mulch well to keep the soil cool and moist. If you mulch, you may not need to water your sweet peas unless the soil gets dry.
To encourage bushy growth, pinch off the tops when plants are 6 inches tall—not before or you’ll encourage premature side-shoot development.
Pick the flowers for bouquets often and the plant will put energy into more blooms instead of going to seed. Harvest the stems when the lowest blossom is just beginning to open.
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails may attack young growth.
Pythium root rot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, and various leaf spots are common.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With their fragile, seductive fragrance, Sweet peas make great flowers for gardens and bouquets. These pea-like flowering annuals grow in many lovely colors and are suitable for a border, a woodland garden, and a trellis or arch.
Cultivated sweet peas go back at least 300 years. In their native Sicily, these ornamental peas have weak stems and an intense orange-jasmine-honey scent. Modern hybrids are stronger-stalked and have larger blooms.
Growing sweet peas is akin to making a pie crust. Some people have the knack, others don’t. Sweet peas are quite hardy, growing from large, easy-to-handle, pea-like seeds. Still, they’re a bit tricky because they are slow to germinate. It’s worth experimenting with different seeds each year.
PLANTING
Early sowing is one of the secrets of sweet peas. In Zone 7 or colder, plant them in very late winter or early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. (Do not wait until last frost.) In the coldest parts of the country, get a jump on the season by starting sweet peas indoors in six-packs or Jiffy pots. Harden seedlings off for at least a week, and then set them out into the garden as soon as the soil can be worked. If you garden in mild winter climates (Zones 8, 9, or 10), plant sweet peas in the late fall so they can develop and bloom in late winter and early spring.
Sweet peas are happiest with their heads in the sun and their roots deep in cool, moist soil. When possible, plant low-growing annuals in front of them to shade their roots.
Choose a well-drained site. Alkaline soil is best; sprinkle some powdered lime on the surface if your soil tends to be acidic.
Prepare a rich soil by mixing in generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure to a depth of 2 feet. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Prior to planting, you’re going to want to dig a nice deep trench of about 4 inches in depth.
After you dig the trench, make holes with a pencil, drop in the seeds, and press down on the soil to firm it and shut out any light.
Before planting, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Then nick the seeds with a nail file before planting to speed sprouting. You do not need to soak seeds in a temperate climate.
CARE
Once planted, germination can take 7 to 15 days, depending on the soil temperature.
As seedlings emerge and grow, gradually fill in the trench. Hoe more soil up to them.
Keep soil moist. Summer rain may be ample. If you put your finger into the soil bed to its first joint and the soil is dry: water them at the soil level and do so in the morning; sweet peas can suffer from bud drop.
If you use plenty of aged manure and compost when planting, you do not need to fertilize. If you do want to add nourishment, use high potash feeds, as nitrogen feeds encourage too much top growth.
Sweet peas prefer cool days and nights and will start to fade when temperatures go above 65°F.
Except for the bush types, sweet peas are real climbers. Give them at least 6 feet of good support. Some varieties may climb to 9 or 10 feet. If you don’t have a fence or trellis, provide brush or chicken wire or bushy, stubbly twigs that they can cling to.
When plants become established, mulch well to keep the soil cool and moist. If you mulch, you may not need to water your sweet peas unless the soil gets dry.
To encourage bushy growth, pinch off the tops when plants are 6 inches tall—not before or you’ll encourage premature side-shoot development.
Pick the flowers for bouquets often and the plant will put energy into more blooms instead of going to seed. Harvest the stems when the lowest blossom is just beginning to open.
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails may attack young growth.
Pythium root rot, powdery mildew, rust, gray mold, and various leaf spots are common.
3
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Helianthus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/BasicNeutral
FLOWER COLOR: Yellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
An annual plant, sunflowers have big, daisy-like flower faces of bright yellow petals (and occasionally red) and brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds.
Tall and coarse, the plants have creeping or tuberous roots and large, bristly leaves. Some sunflowers grow to over 16 feet in height, though there are also varieties today that have been developed for small spaces and containers.
Most sunflowers are remarkably tough and easy to grow as long as the soil is not waterlogged. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant. They make excellent cut flowers and many are attractive to bees and birds.
PLANTING
Sunflowers grow best in locations with direct sun (6 to 8 hours per day); they prefer long, hot summers to flower well.
Sunflowers have long tap roots which need to stretch out so the plants prefer well-dug, loose, well-draining soil; in preparing a bed, dig down 2 feet in depth and about 3 feet across to ensure the soil isn’t too compact.
Find a well-drained location, and prepare your soil by digging an area of about 2-3 feet in circumference to a depth of about 2 feet.
Though they’re not too fussy, sunflowers thrive in slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline (pH 6.0 to 7.5).
Sunflowers are heavy feeders so the soil needs to be nutrient-rich with organic matter or composted (aged) manure. Or, work in a slow release granular fertilizer 8 inches deep into your soil.
If possible, put seeds in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building.
Before planting, decide whether or not you want to grow a fun sunflower tower.
PLANTING SUNFLOWER SEEDS
It’s best to sow sunflower seeds directly into the soil after the danger of spring frost is past. Ideally, the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees F.
Give plants plenty of room, especially for low-growing varieties that will branch out. Make rows about 30 inches apart. (For very small varieties, plant closer together.)
Plant the large seeds no more than 1 inch deep about 6 inches apart after it has thoroughly warmed, from mid-April to late May. You can plant multiple seeds and thin them to the strongest contenders when the plants are six inches tall.
A light application of fertilizer mixed in at planting time will encourage strong root growth to protect them from blowing over in the wind.
Experiment with plantings staggered over 5 to 6 weeks to keep enjoying continuous blooms.
If you see birds scratching around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until seeds germinate. See more ways to keep birds away from your garden.
CARE
While the plant is small, water around the root zone, about 3 to 4 in. from the plant. To protect the plant, it may help to put snail or slug bait around the stem.
Once the plant is established, water deeply though infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Unless the weather is exceptionally wet or dry, water once a week with several gallons of water.
Feed plants only sparingly; overfertilization can cause stems to break in the fall. You can add diluted fertilizer into the water, though avoid getting the fertilizer near the plant’s base; it may help to build a moat in a circle around the plant about 18 inches out.
Tall species and cultivars require support. Bamboo stakes are a good choice for any plant that has a strong, single stem and needs support for a short period of time.
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds and squirrels will show interest in the seeds. If you plan to use the seeds, deter critters with barrier devices. As seed heads mature and flowers droop, you can cover each one with white polyspun garden fleece.
If you have deer, keep them at bay with a tall wire barrier.
Sunflowers are relatively insect-free. A small gray moth sometimes lays its eggs in the blossoms. Pick the worms from the plants.
Downy mildew, rust, and powdery mildew can also affect the plants. If fungal diseases are spotted early, spray with a general garden fungicide
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/BasicNeutral
FLOWER COLOR: Yellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
An annual plant, sunflowers have big, daisy-like flower faces of bright yellow petals (and occasionally red) and brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds.
Tall and coarse, the plants have creeping or tuberous roots and large, bristly leaves. Some sunflowers grow to over 16 feet in height, though there are also varieties today that have been developed for small spaces and containers.
Most sunflowers are remarkably tough and easy to grow as long as the soil is not waterlogged. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant. They make excellent cut flowers and many are attractive to bees and birds.
PLANTING
Sunflowers grow best in locations with direct sun (6 to 8 hours per day); they prefer long, hot summers to flower well.
Sunflowers have long tap roots which need to stretch out so the plants prefer well-dug, loose, well-draining soil; in preparing a bed, dig down 2 feet in depth and about 3 feet across to ensure the soil isn’t too compact.
Find a well-drained location, and prepare your soil by digging an area of about 2-3 feet in circumference to a depth of about 2 feet.
Though they’re not too fussy, sunflowers thrive in slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline (pH 6.0 to 7.5).
Sunflowers are heavy feeders so the soil needs to be nutrient-rich with organic matter or composted (aged) manure. Or, work in a slow release granular fertilizer 8 inches deep into your soil.
If possible, put seeds in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building.
Before planting, decide whether or not you want to grow a fun sunflower tower.
PLANTING SUNFLOWER SEEDS
It’s best to sow sunflower seeds directly into the soil after the danger of spring frost is past. Ideally, the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees F.
Give plants plenty of room, especially for low-growing varieties that will branch out. Make rows about 30 inches apart. (For very small varieties, plant closer together.)
Plant the large seeds no more than 1 inch deep about 6 inches apart after it has thoroughly warmed, from mid-April to late May. You can plant multiple seeds and thin them to the strongest contenders when the plants are six inches tall.
A light application of fertilizer mixed in at planting time will encourage strong root growth to protect them from blowing over in the wind.
Experiment with plantings staggered over 5 to 6 weeks to keep enjoying continuous blooms.
If you see birds scratching around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until seeds germinate. See more ways to keep birds away from your garden.
CARE
While the plant is small, water around the root zone, about 3 to 4 in. from the plant. To protect the plant, it may help to put snail or slug bait around the stem.
Once the plant is established, water deeply though infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Unless the weather is exceptionally wet or dry, water once a week with several gallons of water.
Feed plants only sparingly; overfertilization can cause stems to break in the fall. You can add diluted fertilizer into the water, though avoid getting the fertilizer near the plant’s base; it may help to build a moat in a circle around the plant about 18 inches out.
Tall species and cultivars require support. Bamboo stakes are a good choice for any plant that has a strong, single stem and needs support for a short period of time.
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds and squirrels will show interest in the seeds. If you plan to use the seeds, deter critters with barrier devices. As seed heads mature and flowers droop, you can cover each one with white polyspun garden fleece.
If you have deer, keep them at bay with a tall wire barrier.
Sunflowers are relatively insect-free. A small gray moth sometimes lays its eggs in the blossoms. Pick the worms from the plants.
Downy mildew, rust, and powdery mildew can also affect the plants. If fungal diseases are spotted early, spray with a general garden fungicide
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Leucanthemum x superbum
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: White
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
The cheerful shasta daisy is a classic perennial. It looks similar to the familiar roadside daisy but has larger and more robust blooms. Here’s how to grow shasta daisies in your garden!
Shasta daisies tend to bloom in clumps from 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. They bear all-white daisy petals, yellow disk florets, and contrasting glossy, dark green leaves.
Like clockwork, shasta daisies return every spring or early summer and bloom until early fall. They are never invasive (like some consider roadside daisies to be) and they are terrific for cutting.
PLANTING
Grow in full sun.
Soil should be moderately fertile, not overly rich, and moist but well-drained.
Sow seeds in containers in a cold frame in autumn or spring. Divide perennials in early spring or late summer.
If you seed directly, expect blooms the following spring after one season’s growth.
If purchasing a plant in a container, plant in spring.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Space plants 1 to 2 feet apart. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the container.
When placing plant in the hole, make sure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Fill around the root ball and firm the soil.
Water thoroughly.
Many of the taller plants need support/staking.
CARE
Water during the summer only if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above the soil line. (See local frost dates.)
Every spring, apply some compost and mulch to help control weeds.
Every 3 to 4 years, divide perennials again in early spring or late summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids, slugs, earwigs, chrysanthemum nematode, and leaf spots may be troublesome. However, daisies are generally low maintenance.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: White
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
The cheerful shasta daisy is a classic perennial. It looks similar to the familiar roadside daisy but has larger and more robust blooms. Here’s how to grow shasta daisies in your garden!
Shasta daisies tend to bloom in clumps from 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. They bear all-white daisy petals, yellow disk florets, and contrasting glossy, dark green leaves.
Like clockwork, shasta daisies return every spring or early summer and bloom until early fall. They are never invasive (like some consider roadside daisies to be) and they are terrific for cutting.
PLANTING
Grow in full sun.
Soil should be moderately fertile, not overly rich, and moist but well-drained.
Sow seeds in containers in a cold frame in autumn or spring. Divide perennials in early spring or late summer.
If you seed directly, expect blooms the following spring after one season’s growth.
If purchasing a plant in a container, plant in spring.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Space plants 1 to 2 feet apart. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the container.
When placing plant in the hole, make sure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Fill around the root ball and firm the soil.
Water thoroughly.
Many of the taller plants need support/staking.
CARE
Water during the summer only if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above the soil line. (See local frost dates.)
Every spring, apply some compost and mulch to help control weeds.
Every 3 to 4 years, divide perennials again in early spring or late summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids, slugs, earwigs, chrysanthemum nematode, and leaf spots may be troublesome. However, daisies are generally low maintenance.
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Sedum
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
There are many varieties of sedum plants, which makes them suitable for almost all types of garden designs. Use low–growing sedum varieties as ground covers and in rock gardens, and taller varieties for back borders. Sedums are hardy, easy to care for, and make great cut flowers, too.img src="1000305683_1000013406_1501995887.jpg">
PLANTING
Plant sedum seeds in early spring in well-drained, average to rich soil. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Space plants between 6 inches and 2 feet apart, depending on the variety.
Low-growing and vigorous species will tolerate partial shade, but most sedum do best in full sun.
You can also plant divisions or cuttings instead of seeds.
For divisions: Dig a hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the surface, then place the plant in the hole and fill it in.
For cuttings: Simply place the cut end into soil and the cutting should have no trouble rooting under proper lighting and watering conditions.
CARE
Once established, sedum plants require little care. Check your plants regularly to make sure they are not too dry and water when needed.
After flowering, cut back the plants to maintain their shape or contain them in one area.
Remember to divide your plants in the spring or fall to control their spread. Throughout the summer, divisions and cuttings root readily.
PESTS/DISEASES
Mealybugs
Scale insects
Slugs
Snails
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
There are many varieties of sedum plants, which makes them suitable for almost all types of garden designs. Use low–growing sedum varieties as ground covers and in rock gardens, and taller varieties for back borders. Sedums are hardy, easy to care for, and make great cut flowers, too.img src="1000305683_1000013406_1501995887.jpg">
PLANTING
Plant sedum seeds in early spring in well-drained, average to rich soil. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Space plants between 6 inches and 2 feet apart, depending on the variety.
Low-growing and vigorous species will tolerate partial shade, but most sedum do best in full sun.
You can also plant divisions or cuttings instead of seeds.
For divisions: Dig a hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the surface, then place the plant in the hole and fill it in.
For cuttings: Simply place the cut end into soil and the cutting should have no trouble rooting under proper lighting and watering conditions.
CARE
Once established, sedum plants require little care. Check your plants regularly to make sure they are not too dry and water when needed.
After flowering, cut back the plants to maintain their shape or contain them in one area.
Remember to divide your plants in the spring or fall to control their spread. Throughout the summer, divisions and cuttings root readily.
PESTS/DISEASES
Mealybugs
Scale insects
Slugs
Snails
4
3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
Rose bushes come in a variety of forms, from climbing roses to miniature rose plants, blooming mainly in early summer and fall.. One way to group roses into classes is according to their date of introduction:
Old roses—also called “old-fashioned roses” and “heirloom roses”—are those introduced prior to 1867. These are the lush, invariably fragrant roses found in old masters’ paintings. There are hundreds of old rose varieties—whose hardiness varies—providing choices for both warm and mild climates.
Modern hybrid roses are sturdy, long-blooming, extremely hardy and disease-resistant, and bred for color, shape, size, and fragrance.
Species, or wild, are those that have been growing wild for many thousands of years. These wild roses have been adapted to modern gardens and usually bloom in the spring.
PLANTING
Preparing the Soil
Roses prefer a near-neutral pH range of 5.5–7.0. A pH of 6.5 is just about right for most home gardens (slightly acidic to neutral).
An accurate soil test will tell you where your pH currently stands. Acidic (sour) soil is counteracted by applying finely ground limestone, and alkaline (sweet) soil is treated with ground sulfur.
Before you plant, be sure that you choose varieties proven in your climate. When in doubt, All-America Rose Selections winners are good bets. Or check with your local nursery.
Ordering Plants
If you order roses from a mail-order company, order early, in January or February (March at the latest). They are usually shipped in the spring as bare roots when plants are fully dormant, well before they have leafed out. They’ll look like a bundle of sticks on arrival. Note that they are not dead—simply dormant.
If you are buying container-grown roses (vs. bare-root roses), plant them by May or early June for best results.
Planting Tips
Plant roses where they will receive a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun per day. Roses grown in weak sun may not die at once, but they weaken gradually. Give them plenty of organic matter when planting and don’t crowd them.
Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from prickly thorns. Have a hose or bucket of water and all your planting tools nearby. Keep your bare-root rose in water until you are ready to place it in the ground.
Roses can be cut back and moved in either spring or fall, but not in midsummer, as they might suffer and die in the heat. Large rose canes can be cut back by as much as two thirds, and smaller ones to within 6 to 12 inches of the ground.
When you transplant your roses, be sure to dig a much bigger hole than you think you need (for most types, the planting hole should be about 15 to 18 inches wide) and add plenty of organic matter such as compost or aged manure.
Some old-timers recommend placing a 4-inch square of gypsum wallboard and a 16-penny nail in the hole to provide calcium and iron, both appreciated by roses.
CARE
Watering Roses
Diligently water your roses. Soak the entire root zone at least twice a week in dry summer weather. Avoid frequent shallow sprinklings, which won’t reach the deeper roots and may encourage fungus. Roses do best with 90 inches of rain per year, so unless you live in a rain forest, water regularly.
Roses love water—but don’t drown them. That is, they don’t like to sit in water, and they’ll die if the soil is too wet in winter. The ideal soil is rich and loose, with good drainage. One of the worst mistakes you can make is to not provide adequate drainage.
Use mulch. To help conserve water, reduce stress, and encourage healthy growth, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of chopped and shredded leaves, grass clippings, or shredded bark around the base of your roses. Allow about an inch of space between the mulch and the base stem of the plant.
Feeding Roses
Feed roses on a regular basis before and throughout the blooming cycle (avoid chemical fertilizers and pesticides if you’re harvesting for the kitchen).
Once a month between April and July, apply a balanced granular fertilizer (5-10-5 or 5-10-10). Allow ¾ to 1 cup for each bush, and sprinkle it around the drip line, not against the stem. See our fertilizer guide for more information.
In May and June, scratch in an additional tablespoon of Epsom salts along with your fertilizer; the magnesium sulfate will encourage new growth from the bottom of the bush.
Pruning Roses
Prune roses every spring and destroy all old or diseased plant material. Wear elbow-length gloves that are thick enough to protect your hands from thorns or a clumsy slip, but flexible enough to allow you to hold your tools. Always wear safety goggles; branches can whip back when released.
Start with pruning shears for smaller growth. Use loppers, which look like giant, long-handle shears, for growth that is more than half an inch thick. A small pruning saw is handy, as it cuts on both the push and the pull.
Deadhead religiously and keep beds clean. Every leaf has a growth bud, so removing old flower blossoms encourages the plant to make more flowers instead of using the energy to make seeds. Clean away from around the base of the rosebushes any trimmed debris that can harbor disease and insects.
Late in the season, stop deadheading rugosas so that hips will form on the plants; these can be harvested and dried on screens, away from sunlight, then stored in an airtight container. Stop deadheading all your rose plants 3 to 4 weeks before the first hard frost so as not to encourage new growth at a time when new shoots may be damaged by the cold.
Winterizing Roses
Do not prune roses in the fall. Simply cut off any dead or diseased canes.
Stop fertilizing 6 weeks before the first frost but continue watering during dry autumn weather to help keep plants fortified during the dry winter.
Mound, mulch, or add compost after a few frosts but before the ground freezes. Where temperatures stay below freezing during winter, enclose the plant with a sturdy mesh cylinder, filling the enclosure with compost, mulch, dry wood chips, pine needles, or chopped leaves.
Don’t use heavy, wet, maple leaves for mulch. Mulch instead with oak leaves, pine needles, compost, or straw.
Clean up the rose beds to prevent overwintering of diseases. One last spray for fungus with a dormant spray is a good idea.
PESTS/DISEASES
Good gardening practices such as removing dead leaves and canes will help reduce pests. Find out which pests are most prevalent in your area by checking with your local nursery. Here are some of the more common problems:
Japanese Beetles
Aphids: To keep aphids away from roses, plant garlic and mint around the roses.
Black Spot: Rose plant leaves with black spots that eventually turn yellow have black spot, often caused by water splashing on leaves, especially in rainy weather. Leaves may require a protective fungicide coating, which would start in the summer before leaf spots started until first frost. Thoroughly clean up debris in the fall, and prune out all diseased canes.
Powdery Mildew: If leaves, buds, and stems are covered with a white powdery coating, this is a mildew disease; mildew develops rapidly during warm, humid weather. During new growth, prevent mildew by spraying or dusting canes and leaf surfaces with fungicide. Prevent mildew by pruning out all dead or diseased canes in the spring. Destroy all diseased parts during the growing season.
Botrytis Blight: If the rose’s flower buds droop, stay closed, or turn brown, it has this grey fungus. Prune off all infected blossoms and remove any dead material. Fungicide application may be necessary.
Spider Mites
Thrips
Rust
Stem Borers
Deer: Roses are a delectable tidbit, so try planting lavender near your roses. Not only will you have the makings of a nice potpourri, but the scent of lavender will discourage browsers. You can also spread human or dog hair around the garden area or check our list of deer-resistant plants to protect your roses.
In general, avoid rose issues by buying disease-resistant varieties and cleaning up debris, weeds, fallen leaves and any diseased plant material as soon as possible.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Phlox
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
Phlox are perennials and a favorite choice among wildflowers. These plants sport many star-shaped, colorful flowers when in bloom.
Because there are so many varieties, you can find a type of phlox for almost any garden. Phlox make great ground cover, and you can compliment them with other varieties of ground cover. They are easy to care for and low maintenance. Add some phlox to any bouquet for some nice fragrance, too.
PLANTING
Use a garden fork or tiller to prepare your garden bed. Loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
It is easier to grow phlox from cuttings/transplants than seeds.
Plant phlox in the spring and space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. If you are moving a plant from a pot, dig a hole about twice the size of the pot’s diameter and place the plant so that the top of the root ball is even with the soil’s surface. Fill in around the root ball and remember to water it thoroughly.
There are three different categories for growth requirements:
Border phlox (like Carolina phlox, Meadow phlox, and Garden phlox) like moist, well-drained, and average to rich soil, and full to partial sun.
Low, mounding phlox (like Sand phlox and Chattahoochee) like average, well-drained, sandy or loamy soil, and full sun.
Woodland species (like Blue phlox and Creeping phlox) like evenly moist, humus-rich soil, and full to partial sun.
CARE
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week, remember to regularly water your plants throughout the summer.
Each spring, put a thin layer of compost and a 2-inch layer of mulch around the plants to help keep the soil moist and control weeds.
Remember to remove the dead/faded flowers so that your plants can rebloom.
If you have tall phlox, cut the stems back to about 1 to 2 inches above the soil after the first killing frost. (See local frost dates.) Divide tall garden phlox every 2 to 3 years to ensure healthy and disease-free plants.
PESTS/DISEASES
Powdery mildew
Stem canker
Rust
Southern blight
Stem nematodes
Leaf spots
Leaf miners
Caterpillars
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
Phlox are perennials and a favorite choice among wildflowers. These plants sport many star-shaped, colorful flowers when in bloom.
Because there are so many varieties, you can find a type of phlox for almost any garden. Phlox make great ground cover, and you can compliment them with other varieties of ground cover. They are easy to care for and low maintenance. Add some phlox to any bouquet for some nice fragrance, too.
PLANTING
Use a garden fork or tiller to prepare your garden bed. Loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
It is easier to grow phlox from cuttings/transplants than seeds.
Plant phlox in the spring and space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. If you are moving a plant from a pot, dig a hole about twice the size of the pot’s diameter and place the plant so that the top of the root ball is even with the soil’s surface. Fill in around the root ball and remember to water it thoroughly.
There are three different categories for growth requirements:
Border phlox (like Carolina phlox, Meadow phlox, and Garden phlox) like moist, well-drained, and average to rich soil, and full to partial sun.
Low, mounding phlox (like Sand phlox and Chattahoochee) like average, well-drained, sandy or loamy soil, and full sun.
Woodland species (like Blue phlox and Creeping phlox) like evenly moist, humus-rich soil, and full to partial sun.
CARE
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week, remember to regularly water your plants throughout the summer.
Each spring, put a thin layer of compost and a 2-inch layer of mulch around the plants to help keep the soil moist and control weeds.
Remember to remove the dead/faded flowers so that your plants can rebloom.
If you have tall phlox, cut the stems back to about 1 to 2 inches above the soil after the first killing frost. (See local frost dates.) Divide tall garden phlox every 2 to 3 years to ensure healthy and disease-free plants.
PESTS/DISEASES
Powdery mildew
Stem canker
Rust
Southern blight
Stem nematodes
Leaf spots
Leaf miners
Caterpillars
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Paeonia
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Peony flowers are perennials that come back every spring to take your breath away. The plants may live longer than you do—some have been known to thrive for 100 years.
Peony plants require little maintenance as long as they are planted properly and establish themselves; they do not respond well to transplanting.
They’re hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. In most of the country, the rules for success are simply full sun and well-drained soil. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for bud formation.
Peonies make fine sentinels lining walkways and a lovely low hedge. After its stunning bloom, the peony’s bushy clump of handsome glossy green leaves lasts all summer, and then turns purplish or gold in the fall, as stately and dignified as any shrub.
In mixed borders, peonies bloom with columbines, baptisias, and veronicas, and combine well with irises and roses. Plant white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots; set off pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.
PLANTING
When to Plant Peonies
Plant peonies in the fall: in late September and October in most of the country, and even later in the South. (If you must move an established plant, this is the time.)
Peonies should be settled into place before the first hard frost. Spring-planted peonies just don’t do as well, experts agree; they generally lag about a year behind those planted in the fall.
How to Plant Peonies
Grow peonies in deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist soil that drains well. Soil pH should be neutral.
The soil will benefit from the addition of organic material in the planting hole. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about 1 cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp soil firmly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Peonies are not fussy, but choose your location wisely, as they resent disturbance. Provide shelter from strong winds. Plant away from trees or shrubs as peonies don’t like to compete for food and moisture. Space them three to four feet apart for good air circulation.
Peonies like full sun, and though they can manage with half a day, they bloom best in a sunny spot.
Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with three to five eyes, divisions of a three- or four-year-old plant.
Dig a generous-sized hole, about two feet deep and two feet across in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about one cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp it firmly.
Set the root so the eyes face upward on top of the firmed soil, placing the root just 2 inches below the soil surface. (In southern states, choose early-blooming varieties, plant them about an inch deep, and provide some shade.)
Don’t plant too deep! In most of the country, the peony’s eyes (buds) should be no deeper than 1-½ to 2 inches below the soil line.
Then, backfill the hole, taking care that the soil doesn’t settle and bury the root deeper than 2 inches.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Like children, young peonies take time to develop. They usually need a few years to establish themselves, bloom, and grow.
Peonies thrive on benign neglect. Unlike most perennials, they don’t need to be dug and divided.
Spare the fertilizer. Work the soil well before you plant, mixing in a little fertilizer, and that should be enough.
If your soil is poor, the time to apply fertilizer (bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) is early summer, after the peonies have bloomed and you have deadheaded. Don’t fertilize more than every few years.
Help the stems. If peonies have any structural weakness, it is their stems, which are sometimes not strong enough to support their gigantic blossoms. Consider three-legged metal peony rings that allow the plant to grow through the center of the rings.
Deadhead peony blossoms as soon as they begin to fade, cutting to a strong leaf so that the stem doesn’t stick out of the foliage. Cut the foliage to the ground in the fall to avoid any overwintering disease.
Don’t smother peonies with mulch. Where cold temperatures are severe, for the first winter after planting you can mulch VERY loosely with pine needles or shredded bark. Remove mulch in the spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Peonies are generally very hardy. They are susceptible to Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot, Botrytis blight, leaf blotch, Japanese beetle, and nematodes.
Many gardeners wonder why so many ants crawl on the peony buds. They are eating nectar in exchange for attacking bud-eating pests. Never spray the ants; they’re helping you nurture peonies to bloom!
Luckily, peonies are also one of many deer-resistant plants you can grow in your garden.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Peony flowers are perennials that come back every spring to take your breath away. The plants may live longer than you do—some have been known to thrive for 100 years.
Peony plants require little maintenance as long as they are planted properly and establish themselves; they do not respond well to transplanting.
They’re hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. In most of the country, the rules for success are simply full sun and well-drained soil. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for bud formation.
Peonies make fine sentinels lining walkways and a lovely low hedge. After its stunning bloom, the peony’s bushy clump of handsome glossy green leaves lasts all summer, and then turns purplish or gold in the fall, as stately and dignified as any shrub.
In mixed borders, peonies bloom with columbines, baptisias, and veronicas, and combine well with irises and roses. Plant white peonies with yellow irises and a froth of forget-me-nots; set off pink peonies with blue Nepeta or violets.
PLANTING
When to Plant Peonies
Plant peonies in the fall: in late September and October in most of the country, and even later in the South. (If you must move an established plant, this is the time.)
Peonies should be settled into place before the first hard frost. Spring-planted peonies just don’t do as well, experts agree; they generally lag about a year behind those planted in the fall.
How to Plant Peonies
Grow peonies in deep, fertile, humus-rich, moist soil that drains well. Soil pH should be neutral.
The soil will benefit from the addition of organic material in the planting hole. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about 1 cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp soil firmly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Peonies are not fussy, but choose your location wisely, as they resent disturbance. Provide shelter from strong winds. Plant away from trees or shrubs as peonies don’t like to compete for food and moisture. Space them three to four feet apart for good air circulation.
Peonies like full sun, and though they can manage with half a day, they bloom best in a sunny spot.
Peonies are usually sold as bare-root tubers with three to five eyes, divisions of a three- or four-year-old plant.
Dig a generous-sized hole, about two feet deep and two feet across in well-drained soil in a sunny spot. If the soil is heavy or very sandy, enrich it with compost. Incorporate about one cup of bonemeal into the soil. Tamp it firmly.
Set the root so the eyes face upward on top of the firmed soil, placing the root just 2 inches below the soil surface. (In southern states, choose early-blooming varieties, plant them about an inch deep, and provide some shade.)
Don’t plant too deep! In most of the country, the peony’s eyes (buds) should be no deeper than 1-½ to 2 inches below the soil line.
Then, backfill the hole, taking care that the soil doesn’t settle and bury the root deeper than 2 inches.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Like children, young peonies take time to develop. They usually need a few years to establish themselves, bloom, and grow.
Peonies thrive on benign neglect. Unlike most perennials, they don’t need to be dug and divided.
Spare the fertilizer. Work the soil well before you plant, mixing in a little fertilizer, and that should be enough.
If your soil is poor, the time to apply fertilizer (bonemeal, compost, or well-rotted manure) is early summer, after the peonies have bloomed and you have deadheaded. Don’t fertilize more than every few years.
Help the stems. If peonies have any structural weakness, it is their stems, which are sometimes not strong enough to support their gigantic blossoms. Consider three-legged metal peony rings that allow the plant to grow through the center of the rings.
Deadhead peony blossoms as soon as they begin to fade, cutting to a strong leaf so that the stem doesn’t stick out of the foliage. Cut the foliage to the ground in the fall to avoid any overwintering disease.
Don’t smother peonies with mulch. Where cold temperatures are severe, for the first winter after planting you can mulch VERY loosely with pine needles or shredded bark. Remove mulch in the spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Peonies are generally very hardy. They are susceptible to Verticillium wilt, ringspot virus, tip blight, stem rot, Botrytis blight, leaf blotch, Japanese beetle, and nematodes.
Many gardeners wonder why so many ants crawl on the peony buds. They are eating nectar in exchange for attacking bud-eating pests. Never spray the ants; they’re helping you nurture peonies to bloom!
Luckily, peonies are also one of many deer-resistant plants you can grow in your garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Ipomoea
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
Morning glories are annual climbers with slender stems, heart-shaped leaves, and trumpet-shaped flowers of pink, purple-blue, magenta, or white. They have a beautiful shape before they unfold in the sun and romantic tendrils that lend old-fashioned charm.
In warmer areas, train climbers over a pergola or arch, or use as dense groundcover. The vine grows quickly—up to 15 feet in one season—and can self-seed fairly easily, too. Therefore, choose where you put this plant wisely!
The flowers bloom from early summer to the first frost. Their big, fragrant, colorful flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
PLANTING
Grow annuals in a sunny, sheltered site. They need a lot of sun.
Plant in moderately fertile, well-drained soil.
Choose a site that is sheltered from cold or drying winds.
Sow Morning Glory seeds early in the season once the ground has warmed to 64°F.
File the seeds just long enough to break the coat and soak them for 24 hours before planting them. (They look like little worms.)
Cover lightly with ¼-inch of soil. Space about 6 inches apart. Water thoroughly.
CARE
Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer after planting and at monthly intervals.
Support climbers and trailing species with structures like trellises, pergolas, or arches.
Morning glories are low-maintenance. Water during dry periods.
Mulch to retain moisture and avoid weeds.
PESTS/DISEASES
Pests: Aphids, leaf miner, spider mites, caterpillar (leaf cutter)
Disease/Fungus: Rust, fungal leaf spots, and Fusarium Wilt
Critters: Deer can be a nuisance.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
Morning glories are annual climbers with slender stems, heart-shaped leaves, and trumpet-shaped flowers of pink, purple-blue, magenta, or white. They have a beautiful shape before they unfold in the sun and romantic tendrils that lend old-fashioned charm.
In warmer areas, train climbers over a pergola or arch, or use as dense groundcover. The vine grows quickly—up to 15 feet in one season—and can self-seed fairly easily, too. Therefore, choose where you put this plant wisely!
The flowers bloom from early summer to the first frost. Their big, fragrant, colorful flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
PLANTING
Grow annuals in a sunny, sheltered site. They need a lot of sun.
Plant in moderately fertile, well-drained soil.
Choose a site that is sheltered from cold or drying winds.
Sow Morning Glory seeds early in the season once the ground has warmed to 64°F.
File the seeds just long enough to break the coat and soak them for 24 hours before planting them. (They look like little worms.)
Cover lightly with ¼-inch of soil. Space about 6 inches apart. Water thoroughly.
CARE
Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer after planting and at monthly intervals.
Support climbers and trailing species with structures like trellises, pergolas, or arches.
Morning glories are low-maintenance. Water during dry periods.
Mulch to retain moisture and avoid weeds.
PESTS/DISEASES
Pests: Aphids, leaf miner, spider mites, caterpillar (leaf cutter)
Disease/Fungus: Rust, fungal leaf spots, and Fusarium Wilt
Critters: Deer can be a nuisance.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tagetes
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: ClayLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
No annual is more cheerful or easier to grow than marigolds. These flowers are the spendthrifts among annuals, showing a wealth of gold, copper, and brass into our summer and autumn gardens. The flower’s popularity probably derives in part from its ability to bloom brightly all summer long.
Marigolds have daisy-like or double, carnation-like flowerheads and are produced singly or in clusters. Although there are some 50 species, most marigolds we know come from just three:
Tagetes erecta are the tallest and most upright, at three to five feet. They are sometimes known as African, or American, marigolds. They thrive under hot, dry conditions.
Bushy T. patula, or French marigolds, are somewhat smaller and more compact. They are often wider than they are tall. Elegant and eye-catching, they have relatively demure flowers and usually grow from 6 inches to 2 feet tall.
The dainty T. tenuifolia are the signet, or rock-garden, marigolds that like hot, dry sites and make a wonderful edging. Their flowers are edible.
Marigolds have been sterotyped, but they offer tremendous variety. Both the African and French marigolds are generally aromatic, too.
French and signet types can be planted anytime through midsummer, but the tall American marigolds are best planted right away in the spring (after danger of frost is past) because they are slower to mature.
PLANTING
Marigolds thrive in full sunshine and can often withstand very hot summers.
Though they grow in almost any soil, marigolds thrive in moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by digging down about 6 inches to loosen it. Remove stones.
Optional: Add some granular fertilizer in the planting hole. A 5-10-5 works fine.
Sow them directly into the garden once the soil is warm. You can start seeds indoors but they germinate so easily outside that there’s really no advantage. Marigolds sprout within days in warm weather and plants bloom in about 8 weeks.
Sow seed 1-inch apart. While still small, thin the seedlings. Space French and Signet types 8 to 10 inches apart. Larger American varieties should be at least 10 to 12 inches apart.
After planting, thoroughly water each plant.
Separate seedlings when they are about 2 inches tall. Plant them in flats of loose soil, or transplant them into the garden.
If planting in containers, use a soil-based potting mix. Either mix in slow-acting granular fertilizer at planting time or plan to water in diluted liquid fertilizer periodically. Take care to space properly; marigolds grown in containers can become crowded.
CARE
Germination from large, easily handled seeds is rapid, and blooms should appear within a few weeks of sowing.
Marigolds don’t require deadheading, but if the spent blossoms of the American type are clipped, the plants will continue to bloom profusely.
When you water marigolds, allow the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, then water well and repeat the process. Water in high heat.
Do not water marigolds from overhead. Water at the base of the plant.
Do not fertilize marigolds during growth. Too rich a diet stimulates lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
The densely double flowerheads of the African marigolds tend to rot in wet weather.
Add a layer of mulch between plants to suppress weeds and keep soil moist, especially when plants are young.
PESTS/DISEASES
Farmers and gardeners have long known that marigolds make important companion plants all over the garden. The underground workings of the marigold will repel nematodes (microscopic worms) and other pests for up to 3 years.
Marigolds have few pests or problems. Mites and aphids sometimes infest marigolds. Usually a spray of water or an insecticidal soap, repeated every other day for a week or two, will solve the problem
Occasionally marigolds will get a fungal infection if it’s often wet. Avoid watering on the leaves, keep weeds down, and plant in well-drained soil.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: ClayLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
No annual is more cheerful or easier to grow than marigolds. These flowers are the spendthrifts among annuals, showing a wealth of gold, copper, and brass into our summer and autumn gardens. The flower’s popularity probably derives in part from its ability to bloom brightly all summer long.
Marigolds have daisy-like or double, carnation-like flowerheads and are produced singly or in clusters. Although there are some 50 species, most marigolds we know come from just three:
Tagetes erecta are the tallest and most upright, at three to five feet. They are sometimes known as African, or American, marigolds. They thrive under hot, dry conditions.
Bushy T. patula, or French marigolds, are somewhat smaller and more compact. They are often wider than they are tall. Elegant and eye-catching, they have relatively demure flowers and usually grow from 6 inches to 2 feet tall.
The dainty T. tenuifolia are the signet, or rock-garden, marigolds that like hot, dry sites and make a wonderful edging. Their flowers are edible.
Marigolds have been sterotyped, but they offer tremendous variety. Both the African and French marigolds are generally aromatic, too.
French and signet types can be planted anytime through midsummer, but the tall American marigolds are best planted right away in the spring (after danger of frost is past) because they are slower to mature.
PLANTING
Marigolds thrive in full sunshine and can often withstand very hot summers.
Though they grow in almost any soil, marigolds thrive in moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by digging down about 6 inches to loosen it. Remove stones.
Optional: Add some granular fertilizer in the planting hole. A 5-10-5 works fine.
Sow them directly into the garden once the soil is warm. You can start seeds indoors but they germinate so easily outside that there’s really no advantage. Marigolds sprout within days in warm weather and plants bloom in about 8 weeks.
Sow seed 1-inch apart. While still small, thin the seedlings. Space French and Signet types 8 to 10 inches apart. Larger American varieties should be at least 10 to 12 inches apart.
After planting, thoroughly water each plant.
Separate seedlings when they are about 2 inches tall. Plant them in flats of loose soil, or transplant them into the garden.
If planting in containers, use a soil-based potting mix. Either mix in slow-acting granular fertilizer at planting time or plan to water in diluted liquid fertilizer periodically. Take care to space properly; marigolds grown in containers can become crowded.
CARE
Germination from large, easily handled seeds is rapid, and blooms should appear within a few weeks of sowing.
Marigolds don’t require deadheading, but if the spent blossoms of the American type are clipped, the plants will continue to bloom profusely.
When you water marigolds, allow the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, then water well and repeat the process. Water in high heat.
Do not water marigolds from overhead. Water at the base of the plant.
Do not fertilize marigolds during growth. Too rich a diet stimulates lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
The densely double flowerheads of the African marigolds tend to rot in wet weather.
Add a layer of mulch between plants to suppress weeds and keep soil moist, especially when plants are young.
PESTS/DISEASES
Farmers and gardeners have long known that marigolds make important companion plants all over the garden. The underground workings of the marigold will repel nematodes (microscopic worms) and other pests for up to 3 years.
Marigolds have few pests or problems. Mites and aphids sometimes infest marigolds. Usually a spray of water or an insecticidal soap, repeated every other day for a week or two, will solve the problem
Occasionally marigolds will get a fungal infection if it’s often wet. Avoid watering on the leaves, keep weeds down, and plant in well-drained soil.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Lilium
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Varies
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
These hearty bulbs are easy to grow and require minimal care, provided that you plant them in the right place.
At home in both formal and naturalistic settings, most lilies also take readily to containers. Plus, they make wonderful cut flowers, coming in pink, gold, red, orange, and white colors.
Lilies bloom tend to bloom from early summer to fall, depending on the type. By carefully blending early, mid-season, and late varieties into your garden, you will enjoy their magnificent blooms from spring through frost.
PLANTING
Plant lily bulbs in spring or autumn.
Note: Lilies do not thrive in Zones 9 to 10 without a period of refrigeration; they need a cold, dormant period.
Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the scales may rot the bulb, so a well-drained site is essential.
Also, select a site that gets full sun. For dependable blooms, lilies need six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. If it’s too shady, the stems will attempt to lean towards the sun or get spindly and fall over.
Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils (e.g., Madonna lilies).
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. The deep planting encourages the developing stem to send out roots to help stabilize the plant and perhaps eliminate the need for staking. Also, deep planting keeps lily bulbs cool when temperatures soar.
Enrich the soil with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter to encourage good drainage. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Dig a hole 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulbs are high and set the bulb in the hole pointy side up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp gently.
Space bulbs at a distance equal to 3 times the bulb’s diameter (usually about 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety).
For a good effect, plant lilies in groups of 3 to 5 bulbs.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
In active growth, water freely especially if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Keep lilies mulched so that their roots are cool. The mulch should feel moist, but not wet.
Apply a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from early spring until 6 weeks after flowering.
Keep moist in winter.
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch.
Stake tall lilies.
Lilies do not rebloom, but you can remove the faded flowers so that the plants don’t waste energy making seeds.
Leave the foliage until it turns brown in the fall. This is important so that the plant stores energy for next year’s flowering. Cut down the dead stalks in the late fall or early spring.
Before winter, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch, simply to delay the ground freeze and allow the roots to keep growing. Leave the mulch until spring once the last hard frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring. Just lift them and divide into clumps. Replant using compost and bonemeal.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold is sometimes a problem, especially in a wet, cool spring or summer. Make sure lilies are not crowded and have plenty of air circulation.
Viruses, spread by aphids, may be troublesome, although some cultivars are virus-tolerant.
Red lily beetles, slugs, and snails may occur.
Deer, rabbits, voles, and groundhogs may eat entire plants. If these critters are a problem, plant the bulbs in buried wire cages to protect them from getting eaten.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Varies
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
These hearty bulbs are easy to grow and require minimal care, provided that you plant them in the right place.
At home in both formal and naturalistic settings, most lilies also take readily to containers. Plus, they make wonderful cut flowers, coming in pink, gold, red, orange, and white colors.
Lilies bloom tend to bloom from early summer to fall, depending on the type. By carefully blending early, mid-season, and late varieties into your garden, you will enjoy their magnificent blooms from spring through frost.
PLANTING
Plant lily bulbs in spring or autumn.
Note: Lilies do not thrive in Zones 9 to 10 without a period of refrigeration; they need a cold, dormant period.
Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the scales may rot the bulb, so a well-drained site is essential.
Also, select a site that gets full sun. For dependable blooms, lilies need six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. If it’s too shady, the stems will attempt to lean towards the sun or get spindly and fall over.
Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils (e.g., Madonna lilies).
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. The deep planting encourages the developing stem to send out roots to help stabilize the plant and perhaps eliminate the need for staking. Also, deep planting keeps lily bulbs cool when temperatures soar.
Enrich the soil with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter to encourage good drainage. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Dig a hole 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulbs are high and set the bulb in the hole pointy side up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp gently.
Space bulbs at a distance equal to 3 times the bulb’s diameter (usually about 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety).
For a good effect, plant lilies in groups of 3 to 5 bulbs.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
In active growth, water freely especially if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Keep lilies mulched so that their roots are cool. The mulch should feel moist, but not wet.
Apply a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from early spring until 6 weeks after flowering.
Keep moist in winter.
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch.
Stake tall lilies.
Lilies do not rebloom, but you can remove the faded flowers so that the plants don’t waste energy making seeds.
Leave the foliage until it turns brown in the fall. This is important so that the plant stores energy for next year’s flowering. Cut down the dead stalks in the late fall or early spring.
Before winter, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch, simply to delay the ground freeze and allow the roots to keep growing. Leave the mulch until spring once the last hard frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring. Just lift them and divide into clumps. Replant using compost and bonemeal.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold is sometimes a problem, especially in a wet, cool spring or summer. Make sure lilies are not crowded and have plenty of air circulation.
Viruses, spread by aphids, may be troublesome, although some cultivars are virus-tolerant.
Red lily beetles, slugs, and snails may occur.
Deer, rabbits, voles, and groundhogs may eat entire plants. If these critters are a problem, plant the bulbs in buried wire cages to protect them from getting eaten.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Iris germanica
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: BlueMulticolorOrangePinkPurpleWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Every gardener wants this perennial. Despite its divine origins, it is hardy, reliable, and easy to grow. Irises also attract butterflies and hummingbirds and make lovely cut flowers.
There are some 300 species in the genus Iris. The most familiar irises are the tall (at least 28 inches) bearded irises (Iris germanica).
The distinctive flowers have three large outer petals called “falls” and three inner upright petals called “standards.” The falls may have beards or crests. Bearded iris are so-called because they have soft hairs along the center of the falls. In crested iris, the hairs form a comb or ridge.
Most irises flower in early summer. Some, mostly bearded hybrids, are remontant, flowering again later in the summer.
PLANTING
Irises need at least half a day of sun and well-drained soil. Without enough sun, they won’t bloom.
They prefer fertile, neutral to slightly acidic soil. If your soil is very acidic, sweeten it with a bit of lime, and forbear summer watering, which can lead to rot. Learn more about preparing soil for planting.
Bearded irises must not be shaded by other plants; many do best in a special bed on their own.
Soil drainage is very important. Loosen the soil with a tiller or garden fork to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Plant iris in mid- to late summer.
Bearded irises have rhizomes (fleshy roots) that should be partially exposed, or thinly covered with soil in hot climates.
Plant rhizomes singly or in groups of three with the fans outermost, 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on the size.
Dig a shallow hole 10 inches in diameter and 4 inches deep. Make a ridge of soil down the middle and place the rhizome on the ridge, spreading roots down both sides. Fill the hole with soil and firm it gently.
Water thoroughly.
When planting, top-dress with a low-nitrogen fertilizer, and again in early spring.
CARE
Avoid applying high-nitrogen fertilizers to the surface or carelessly mulching with organic matter, which may encourage rhizome rot.
Keep rhizomes exposed. Unlike bulbs, which thrive deep underground, iris rhizomes need a bit of sun and air to dry them out. If they’re covered with soil or crowded by other plants, they’ll rot. Irises may benefit from shallow mulching in the spring.
Don’t trim iris leaves. Leaves carry on photosynthesis for next year’s growth. Cut off brown tips—and cut the flowering stalk down to the rhizome to discourage rot.
If iris foliage is hit with heavy frost, remove and destroy it to eliminate borer eggs. See your local frost dates.
After 2 to 5 years, when clumps become congested or lose vitality and stop blooming, divide and replant sound rhizomes in fresh soil. The best time to replant irises is soon after bloom. Transplant them to places where they will have “wet feet, but dry knees.”
PESTS/DISEASES
Irises are deer-resistant and drought-tolerant. However, they are susceptible to borers, so check the rhizomes (fleshy roots) yearly for holes, discarding any infested ones.
Verbena bud moth, whiteflies, iris weevil, thrips, slugs and snails, aphids, and nematodes may also be troublesome.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: BlueMulticolorOrangePinkPurpleWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Every gardener wants this perennial. Despite its divine origins, it is hardy, reliable, and easy to grow. Irises also attract butterflies and hummingbirds and make lovely cut flowers.
There are some 300 species in the genus Iris. The most familiar irises are the tall (at least 28 inches) bearded irises (Iris germanica).
The distinctive flowers have three large outer petals called “falls” and three inner upright petals called “standards.” The falls may have beards or crests. Bearded iris are so-called because they have soft hairs along the center of the falls. In crested iris, the hairs form a comb or ridge.
Most irises flower in early summer. Some, mostly bearded hybrids, are remontant, flowering again later in the summer.
PLANTING
Irises need at least half a day of sun and well-drained soil. Without enough sun, they won’t bloom.
They prefer fertile, neutral to slightly acidic soil. If your soil is very acidic, sweeten it with a bit of lime, and forbear summer watering, which can lead to rot. Learn more about preparing soil for planting.
Bearded irises must not be shaded by other plants; many do best in a special bed on their own.
Soil drainage is very important. Loosen the soil with a tiller or garden fork to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Plant iris in mid- to late summer.
Bearded irises have rhizomes (fleshy roots) that should be partially exposed, or thinly covered with soil in hot climates.
Plant rhizomes singly or in groups of three with the fans outermost, 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on the size.
Dig a shallow hole 10 inches in diameter and 4 inches deep. Make a ridge of soil down the middle and place the rhizome on the ridge, spreading roots down both sides. Fill the hole with soil and firm it gently.
Water thoroughly.
When planting, top-dress with a low-nitrogen fertilizer, and again in early spring.
CARE
Avoid applying high-nitrogen fertilizers to the surface or carelessly mulching with organic matter, which may encourage rhizome rot.
Keep rhizomes exposed. Unlike bulbs, which thrive deep underground, iris rhizomes need a bit of sun and air to dry them out. If they’re covered with soil or crowded by other plants, they’ll rot. Irises may benefit from shallow mulching in the spring.
Don’t trim iris leaves. Leaves carry on photosynthesis for next year’s growth. Cut off brown tips—and cut the flowering stalk down to the rhizome to discourage rot.
If iris foliage is hit with heavy frost, remove and destroy it to eliminate borer eggs. See your local frost dates.
After 2 to 5 years, when clumps become congested or lose vitality and stop blooming, divide and replant sound rhizomes in fresh soil. The best time to replant irises is soon after bloom. Transplant them to places where they will have “wet feet, but dry knees.”
PESTS/DISEASES
Irises are deer-resistant and drought-tolerant. However, they are susceptible to borers, so check the rhizomes (fleshy roots) yearly for holes, discarding any infested ones.
Verbena bud moth, whiteflies, iris weevil, thrips, slugs and snails, aphids, and nematodes may also be troublesome.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Impatiens
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Birds
Impatiens is a beautiful annual that makes an excellent houseplant or summer bedding plant.
Impatiens is also known as “Busy Lizzie,” and its name is a Latin word that describes the way its seeds shoot out of its pods when ripe (the slightest touch can make a ripe impatiens seed pod burst open and scatter its seeds). Impatiens like shade and moisture.
PLANTING
Plant impatiens transplants after the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Impatiens prefer humus-rich, moist, and well-drained soil. Make sure the plants have some shelter from the wind.
The closer impatiens plants are, the taller they will grow, so space accordingly (impatiens plants can grown anywhere between 6 and 30 inches tall). For flower beds, plant 8 to 12 inches apart so the plants will stay low to the ground.
You can mix in compost or a slow-release fertilizer before transplanting to help the plants.
If you have impatiens plants in containers, like window boxes, use a sterile or soil-less growing mixture to ensure better drainage for the plants.
Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
CARE
The most important thing to remember about impatiens plants is to water them regularly. Keep them moist, but not too wet. If the plants dry out, they will lose their leaves. If you over-water the plants, this could encourage fungal diseases.
Remember container plants will need more water.
PESTS/DISEASES
Spider mites
Impatiens Downy Mildew (IDM): Get tips on how to treat mildew on impatiens.
Flower thrips
Root knot nematode
Whiteflies
Aphids
Caterpillars
Gray mold
Fungal leaf spot
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Birds
Impatiens is a beautiful annual that makes an excellent houseplant or summer bedding plant.
Impatiens is also known as “Busy Lizzie,” and its name is a Latin word that describes the way its seeds shoot out of its pods when ripe (the slightest touch can make a ripe impatiens seed pod burst open and scatter its seeds). Impatiens like shade and moisture.
PLANTING
Plant impatiens transplants after the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Impatiens prefer humus-rich, moist, and well-drained soil. Make sure the plants have some shelter from the wind.
The closer impatiens plants are, the taller they will grow, so space accordingly (impatiens plants can grown anywhere between 6 and 30 inches tall). For flower beds, plant 8 to 12 inches apart so the plants will stay low to the ground.
You can mix in compost or a slow-release fertilizer before transplanting to help the plants.
If you have impatiens plants in containers, like window boxes, use a sterile or soil-less growing mixture to ensure better drainage for the plants.
Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
CARE
The most important thing to remember about impatiens plants is to water them regularly. Keep them moist, but not too wet. If the plants dry out, they will lose their leaves. If you over-water the plants, this could encourage fungal diseases.
Remember container plants will need more water.
PESTS/DISEASES
Spider mites
Impatiens Downy Mildew (IDM): Get tips on how to treat mildew on impatiens.
Flower thrips
Root knot nematode
Whiteflies
Aphids
Caterpillars
Gray mold
Fungal leaf spot
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3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Hyacinthus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: BlueOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Hyacinth bulbs are planted in the fall and borne in spring. The Victorians revered hyacinths for their sweet, lingering fragrance, and carefully massed them in low beds, planting in rows of one color each.
The loose to dense racemes of strongly fragrant flowers are closely packed with tubular-bell-shaped, single or double flowers. As well as growing in the ground, colorful hyacinths are excellent for forcing in containers and some are available for early flowering indoors.
PLANTING
Plant hyacinth bulbs in autumn.
Plant the bulbs 4 inches deep and a minimum of 3 inches apart. At the northern limits of their hardiness, plant 6 to 8 inches deep.
Grow in any well-drained, moderately fertile soil in sun or partial shade.
Loosen soil and work in compost or bonemeal for fertility.
Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up.
After planting and covering with soil, water thoroughly.
If you are transplanting, water sparingly and then do not water again until flower buds appear the following year.
FORCING BULBS
Bulbs may be forced into early growth for indoor display in winter. Plant them with the tips just showing, in soil-based potting mix in containers with drainage holes.
Keep in a dark place at temperatures above freezing but no higher than 45 degrees F, for at least 10 weeks to allow roots to develop.
When shoots are about 1 inch long, increase light and temperature gradually.
Water carefully, avoiding wetting the shoots or waterlogging the soil.
After flowering, forced hyacinths may be planted in the garden and they will flower again in subsequent years.
CARE
Water hyacinths in the event of a dry autumn.
Protect container-grown plants from excessive winter moisture.
After plants are finished flowering in spring, cut back flower stalks but allow the leaves to die back naturally.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to gray mold and bulb rot.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: BlueOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Hyacinth bulbs are planted in the fall and borne in spring. The Victorians revered hyacinths for their sweet, lingering fragrance, and carefully massed them in low beds, planting in rows of one color each.
The loose to dense racemes of strongly fragrant flowers are closely packed with tubular-bell-shaped, single or double flowers. As well as growing in the ground, colorful hyacinths are excellent for forcing in containers and some are available for early flowering indoors.
PLANTING
Plant hyacinth bulbs in autumn.
Plant the bulbs 4 inches deep and a minimum of 3 inches apart. At the northern limits of their hardiness, plant 6 to 8 inches deep.
Grow in any well-drained, moderately fertile soil in sun or partial shade.
Loosen soil and work in compost or bonemeal for fertility.
Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up.
After planting and covering with soil, water thoroughly.
If you are transplanting, water sparingly and then do not water again until flower buds appear the following year.
FORCING BULBS
Bulbs may be forced into early growth for indoor display in winter. Plant them with the tips just showing, in soil-based potting mix in containers with drainage holes.
Keep in a dark place at temperatures above freezing but no higher than 45 degrees F, for at least 10 weeks to allow roots to develop.
When shoots are about 1 inch long, increase light and temperature gradually.
Water carefully, avoiding wetting the shoots or waterlogging the soil.
After flowering, forced hyacinths may be planted in the garden and they will flower again in subsequent years.
CARE
Water hyacinths in the event of a dry autumn.
Protect container-grown plants from excessive winter moisture.
After plants are finished flowering in spring, cut back flower stalks but allow the leaves to die back naturally.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to gray mold and bulb rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Gladiolus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: MulticolorOrangePinkWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Gladiolus is a classic perennial known for its tall flower spikes. A great cutting flower, gladioli look beautiful in midsummer bouquets.
Available in a multitude of colors, gladioli grow between 2 to 6 feet in height.
The taller varieties, which should be staked, are often placed in the back of a garden to nicely complement shorter plants.
In zones 7 and colder, gladioli corms need to be lifted—and replanted in the spring.
PLANTING
Plant gladiolus bulbs in the spring once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. See your local frost dates here.
Ready your garden by using a garden fork or tiller and loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep. After loosening the soil, mix in a 2– to 4–inch layer of compost.
Set the corm in the hole about 4 inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Cover with soil and press firmly.
Space the corms 3 to 6 inches apart. Water the corms thoroughly.
Gladioli like well-drained, light soil and full sun.
If you’re planting tall varieties, be sure to stake them at planting time. Be careful not to damage the corms with the stakes.
It takes about 90 days from the time gladioli are planted to root, grow, bloom, and store enough energy for the next season.
CARE
Put a 2– to 4–inch layer of mulch around your gladioli to keep your soil moist and help prevent weeds.
If you get less than 1 inch of rain a week, water your plants regularly throughout the summer. Otherwise, water them moderately when in growth to keep the soil moist.
Remove the faded/dead flowers to ensure continuous growth. Once all the flowers on a stalk have gone, cut off the stalk.
Be sure to leave the plant intact so it can mature and rejuvenate the corms for the next season.
If you live in zones 7 or 8, put down a layer of hay or straw for winter protection.
Corms should be dug before the first frost if you live in zone 7 or ones colder. See instructions below.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gladiolus corm rot (Fusarium wilt)
Gray mold
Viruses
Aster yellows
Spider mites
Thrips
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: MulticolorOrangePinkWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Gladiolus is a classic perennial known for its tall flower spikes. A great cutting flower, gladioli look beautiful in midsummer bouquets.
Available in a multitude of colors, gladioli grow between 2 to 6 feet in height.
The taller varieties, which should be staked, are often placed in the back of a garden to nicely complement shorter plants.
In zones 7 and colder, gladioli corms need to be lifted—and replanted in the spring.
PLANTING
Plant gladiolus bulbs in the spring once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. See your local frost dates here.
Ready your garden by using a garden fork or tiller and loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep. After loosening the soil, mix in a 2– to 4–inch layer of compost.
Set the corm in the hole about 4 inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Cover with soil and press firmly.
Space the corms 3 to 6 inches apart. Water the corms thoroughly.
Gladioli like well-drained, light soil and full sun.
If you’re planting tall varieties, be sure to stake them at planting time. Be careful not to damage the corms with the stakes.
It takes about 90 days from the time gladioli are planted to root, grow, bloom, and store enough energy for the next season.
CARE
Put a 2– to 4–inch layer of mulch around your gladioli to keep your soil moist and help prevent weeds.
If you get less than 1 inch of rain a week, water your plants regularly throughout the summer. Otherwise, water them moderately when in growth to keep the soil moist.
Remove the faded/dead flowers to ensure continuous growth. Once all the flowers on a stalk have gone, cut off the stalk.
Be sure to leave the plant intact so it can mature and rejuvenate the corms for the next season.
If you live in zones 7 or 8, put down a layer of hay or straw for winter protection.
Corms should be dug before the first frost if you live in zone 7 or ones colder. See instructions below.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gladiolus corm rot (Fusarium wilt)
Gray mold
Viruses
Aster yellows
Spider mites
Thrips
Aphids
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