文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Mentha
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Mint is a perennial with very fragrant, toothed leaves and tiny purple, pink, or white flowers. It has a fruity, aromatic taste.
There are many varieties of mint—all fragrant, whether shiny or fuzzy, smooth or crinkled, bright green or variegated. However, you can always tell a member of the mint family by its square stem. Rolling it between your fingers, you’ll notice a pungent scent and think of candy, sweet teas, or maybe even mint juleps.
As well as kitchen companions, mints are used as garden accents, ground covers, air fresheners, and herbal medicines. They’re as beautiful as they are functional, and they’re foolproof to grow, thriving in sun and shade all over North America. In fact, mint can be vigorous spreaders, so be careful where you plant it.
PLANTING
Mints are vigorous perennials that thrive in light soil with good drainage.
Ideally, they prefer a moist but well-drained site, something like their native habitat along stream banks.
Most will tolerate some shade, and the variegated types may require some protection from direct sun.
For growing outdoors, plant one or two purchased plants (or one or two cuttings from a friend) about 2 feet apart in moist soil. One or two plants will easily cover the ground. Mint should grow to be 1 or 2 feet tall.
For the best growth in confined areas such as containers, topdress plants with a thin layer of compost or organic fertilizer every few months. Aboveground pots will need winter protection in cold climates.
In the garden, plant mint near cabbage and tomatoes.
CARE
Minimal care is needed for mint. For outdoor plants, use a light mulch. This will help keep the soil moist and keep the leaves clean.
For indoor plants, be sure to water them regularly to keep the soil evenly moist.
At first, mints develop into well-behaved–looking, bushy, upright clumps, but they soon set out to conquer new territory with horizontal runners and underground rhizomes. Unless you block the advance, a pert peppermint plant can turn into a sprawling 4-foot giant in just 1 year. It’s not the stuff of horror movies, however. Mints benefit from picking and pruning. They are shallow-rooted and easy to pull out, so there’s no reason to worry, as long as you provide physical barriers such as walls, walkways, or containers.
PESTS/DISEASES
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf spot
Anthracnose
Stem canker
Mice dislike the smell of peppermint. Spread it liberally where you suspect the critters. Mint is also considered a deer-resistant plant.
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Mint is a perennial with very fragrant, toothed leaves and tiny purple, pink, or white flowers. It has a fruity, aromatic taste.
There are many varieties of mint—all fragrant, whether shiny or fuzzy, smooth or crinkled, bright green or variegated. However, you can always tell a member of the mint family by its square stem. Rolling it between your fingers, you’ll notice a pungent scent and think of candy, sweet teas, or maybe even mint juleps.
As well as kitchen companions, mints are used as garden accents, ground covers, air fresheners, and herbal medicines. They’re as beautiful as they are functional, and they’re foolproof to grow, thriving in sun and shade all over North America. In fact, mint can be vigorous spreaders, so be careful where you plant it.
PLANTING
Mints are vigorous perennials that thrive in light soil with good drainage.
Ideally, they prefer a moist but well-drained site, something like their native habitat along stream banks.
Most will tolerate some shade, and the variegated types may require some protection from direct sun.
For growing outdoors, plant one or two purchased plants (or one or two cuttings from a friend) about 2 feet apart in moist soil. One or two plants will easily cover the ground. Mint should grow to be 1 or 2 feet tall.
For the best growth in confined areas such as containers, topdress plants with a thin layer of compost or organic fertilizer every few months. Aboveground pots will need winter protection in cold climates.
In the garden, plant mint near cabbage and tomatoes.
CARE
Minimal care is needed for mint. For outdoor plants, use a light mulch. This will help keep the soil moist and keep the leaves clean.
For indoor plants, be sure to water them regularly to keep the soil evenly moist.
At first, mints develop into well-behaved–looking, bushy, upright clumps, but they soon set out to conquer new territory with horizontal runners and underground rhizomes. Unless you block the advance, a pert peppermint plant can turn into a sprawling 4-foot giant in just 1 year. It’s not the stuff of horror movies, however. Mints benefit from picking and pruning. They are shallow-rooted and easy to pull out, so there’s no reason to worry, as long as you provide physical barriers such as walls, walkways, or containers.
PESTS/DISEASES
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf spot
Anthracnose
Stem canker
Mice dislike the smell of peppermint. Spread it liberally where you suspect the critters. Mint is also considered a deer-resistant plant.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Dill is an annual, self-seeding plant with feathery green leaves. It is used most commonly in soups and stews and for pickling. Dill weed is easy to grow and attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply!
To create a permanent dill weed patch, allow some of the seeds to self-sow each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the season.
PLANTING
Sow dill seeds about ¼-inch deep and 18 inches apart in rich soil, then gently rake the seeds into the soil. The soil should be between 60 and 70ºF for best results.
Dill weed does not grow well when transplanted, so start the seeds fresh in the garden in early summer. Make sure to shelter the plants from strong winds.
After 10 to 14 days, the plants should appear in the soil. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
In your garden, plant dill next to cabbage or onions, but keep it away from carrots.
CARE
Water the plants freely during the growing season.
In order to ensure a season-long fresh supply of dill, continue sowing seeds every few weeks. For an extended harvest, do not allow flowers to grow on the plants.
If the soil remains undisturbed throughout the growing season, more dill plants will grow the next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf spot and occasionally a few other types of fungal leaf and root diseases
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Dill is an annual, self-seeding plant with feathery green leaves. It is used most commonly in soups and stews and for pickling. Dill weed is easy to grow and attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply!
To create a permanent dill weed patch, allow some of the seeds to self-sow each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the season.
PLANTING
Sow dill seeds about ¼-inch deep and 18 inches apart in rich soil, then gently rake the seeds into the soil. The soil should be between 60 and 70ºF for best results.
Dill weed does not grow well when transplanted, so start the seeds fresh in the garden in early summer. Make sure to shelter the plants from strong winds.
After 10 to 14 days, the plants should appear in the soil. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
In your garden, plant dill next to cabbage or onions, but keep it away from carrots.
CARE
Water the plants freely during the growing season.
In order to ensure a season-long fresh supply of dill, continue sowing seeds every few weeks. For an extended harvest, do not allow flowers to grow on the plants.
If the soil remains undisturbed throughout the growing season, more dill plants will grow the next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf spot and occasionally a few other types of fungal leaf and root diseases
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Coriander/cilantro is a fast-growing, aromatic, annual herb that grows best in the cooler weather of spring and fall. Here’s how to grow coriander and cilantro in your garden.
This herb is used to flavor many recipes and the entire plant is edible, though the leaves and seeds are used most often.
CORIANDER VS CILANTRO
Cilantro and coriander are in fact different parts of the same plant. Cilantro refers to the leaves of the plant, which are used as an herb, while coriander refers to the seeds, which are typically ground and used as a spice. Here’s the difference between an herb and a spice.
PLANTING
Plant cilantro in the spring after the last frost date or in the fall. In the Southwestern US, a fall planting may last through spring until the weather heats up again.
Do not grow in summer heat as the plants will bolt (such that it will be past harvesting). The leaves that grow on bolted plants tend to be bitter in flavor.
It is best to choose a sunny site that will allow cilantro to self-seed as it is ought to do. Plant in an herb garden or the corner of a vegetable garden. When the weather gets warm, the plant will quickly finish its life cycle and send up a long stalk which will produce blossoms and later seeds. Little plants will sprout during the season and the next spring.
Plant the seeds in light, well-drained soil and space them 1 to 2 inches apart. Sow the seeds at 3-week intervals for continued harvest.
Space rows about 12 inches apart.
It is important to keep the seeds moist during their germination, so remember to water the plants regularly.
CARE
Water the seedlings regularly throughout the growing season. They require about 1 inch of water per week for best growth.
Thin seedlings to 6 inches apart so that they have room to develop healthy leaves.
Once the plants are established, they do not need as much water per week. Keep them moist, but be careful not to overwater them.
Fertilize once or twice during the growing season with nitrogen fertilizer. Apply ¼ cup of fertilizer per 25 feet of row. Be sure not to over-fertilizer the plants.
To help prevent weeds, mulch around the plants as soon as they are visible above the soil. You can also till shallowly to help prevent root damage from weeds.
PESTS/DISEASES
Fungal wilt
Leaf hoppers
Aphids
Mildew
To control for insects, use insecticidal soap once they are spotted under leaves.
Clean up debris and spent plants to avoid wilt and mildew.
A common problem with cilantro is its fast growing cycle. As mentioned above, it will not grow properly in the heat of summer. Grow so that you harvest in spring, fall, or winter (in mild climates).
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Coriander/cilantro is a fast-growing, aromatic, annual herb that grows best in the cooler weather of spring and fall. Here’s how to grow coriander and cilantro in your garden.
This herb is used to flavor many recipes and the entire plant is edible, though the leaves and seeds are used most often.
CORIANDER VS CILANTRO
Cilantro and coriander are in fact different parts of the same plant. Cilantro refers to the leaves of the plant, which are used as an herb, while coriander refers to the seeds, which are typically ground and used as a spice. Here’s the difference between an herb and a spice.
PLANTING
Plant cilantro in the spring after the last frost date or in the fall. In the Southwestern US, a fall planting may last through spring until the weather heats up again.
Do not grow in summer heat as the plants will bolt (such that it will be past harvesting). The leaves that grow on bolted plants tend to be bitter in flavor.
It is best to choose a sunny site that will allow cilantro to self-seed as it is ought to do. Plant in an herb garden or the corner of a vegetable garden. When the weather gets warm, the plant will quickly finish its life cycle and send up a long stalk which will produce blossoms and later seeds. Little plants will sprout during the season and the next spring.
Plant the seeds in light, well-drained soil and space them 1 to 2 inches apart. Sow the seeds at 3-week intervals for continued harvest.
Space rows about 12 inches apart.
It is important to keep the seeds moist during their germination, so remember to water the plants regularly.
CARE
Water the seedlings regularly throughout the growing season. They require about 1 inch of water per week for best growth.
Thin seedlings to 6 inches apart so that they have room to develop healthy leaves.
Once the plants are established, they do not need as much water per week. Keep them moist, but be careful not to overwater them.
Fertilize once or twice during the growing season with nitrogen fertilizer. Apply ¼ cup of fertilizer per 25 feet of row. Be sure not to over-fertilizer the plants.
To help prevent weeds, mulch around the plants as soon as they are visible above the soil. You can also till shallowly to help prevent root damage from weeds.
PESTS/DISEASES
Fungal wilt
Leaf hoppers
Aphids
Mildew
To control for insects, use insecticidal soap once they are spotted under leaves.
Clean up debris and spent plants to avoid wilt and mildew.
A common problem with cilantro is its fast growing cycle. As mentioned above, it will not grow properly in the heat of summer. Grow so that you harvest in spring, fall, or winter (in mild climates).
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME:
Allium schoenoprasum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
Chives are a perennial member of the onion family that sport beautiful purple flowers. Here’s how to grow chives in your garden!
Chives are cool-season, cold-tolerant perennials that are planted in early spring.
Be mindful when planting this herb, as it will take over your garden if the flowers are left to ripen (the flowers scatter the seeds). However, this plant is easy to dig up and moved if it overwhelms your garden.
PLANTING
Chives prefer full sun.
Soil needs to be moist, fertile, rich, and well-draining. Before planting, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of well-composted organic matter. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot of planting area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (Read more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
For a head start, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) Transplants need good growth before being set in the garden.
If you are growing from seed, sow as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. For the best growth, the soil should be around 60º to 70ºF.
Plant seeds ¼ inch deep and final plant spacing should be 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions.
CARE
It is important to give chives consistent watering throughout the growing season for high yields. Moisten the soil thoroughly when watering.
Use mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds down.
For good production, sidedress with fertilizer in May and July with 1 teaspoon of 21-0-0 per square foot.
Minimal care is needed for fully grown plants.
After the flowers bloom, be sure to remove them so that the seeds aren’t spread throughout your garden.
Plants grow to be 12 to 24 inches tall and may spread a foot across.
Remember to divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Chives are much more productive if divided regularly. Allow divided plants to grow for several weeks before harvesting.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bulb rots (caused by soilborne fungi)
White rot
Mildew
Rust
Smut
Various fungal leaf spots (such as purple blotch and gray mold)
Onion fly
Thrips
Allium schoenoprasum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
Chives are a perennial member of the onion family that sport beautiful purple flowers. Here’s how to grow chives in your garden!
Chives are cool-season, cold-tolerant perennials that are planted in early spring.
Be mindful when planting this herb, as it will take over your garden if the flowers are left to ripen (the flowers scatter the seeds). However, this plant is easy to dig up and moved if it overwhelms your garden.
PLANTING
Chives prefer full sun.
Soil needs to be moist, fertile, rich, and well-draining. Before planting, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of well-composted organic matter. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot of planting area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (Read more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
For a head start, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) Transplants need good growth before being set in the garden.
If you are growing from seed, sow as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. For the best growth, the soil should be around 60º to 70ºF.
Plant seeds ¼ inch deep and final plant spacing should be 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions.
CARE
It is important to give chives consistent watering throughout the growing season for high yields. Moisten the soil thoroughly when watering.
Use mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds down.
For good production, sidedress with fertilizer in May and July with 1 teaspoon of 21-0-0 per square foot.
Minimal care is needed for fully grown plants.
After the flowers bloom, be sure to remove them so that the seeds aren’t spread throughout your garden.
Plants grow to be 12 to 24 inches tall and may spread a foot across.
Remember to divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Chives are much more productive if divided regularly. Allow divided plants to grow for several weeks before harvesting.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bulb rots (caused by soilborne fungi)
White rot
Mildew
Rust
Smut
Various fungal leaf spots (such as purple blotch and gray mold)
Onion fly
Thrips
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME:
Ocimum basilicum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Basil is a warm-weather, fragrant herb that tastes great in Italian dishes—and let’s not forget homemade pesto! When growing basil, be sure to keep harvesting the leaves to keep the plant going strong.
The most common type of basil is sweet basil; other types include purple basil (less sweet than common basil), Lemon basil (lemon flavor), and Thai basil (licorice flavor).
Basil is easy to grow but it only grows outdoors in the summer—and only once the soil has warmed up nicely—so plan accordingly.
If you’re planning on making pesto, grow several plants. Otherwise one or two basil plants yields plenty.
PLANTING
To get a head start, start the seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
To plant outside, wait until the soil is at least 50 degrees—preferably around 70ºF for best growth. Don’t rush basil. Without heat, the plant won’t grow.
Basil needs to be in a location that gets 6 to 8 hours of full Sun daily; soil should be moist and well-drained.
Plant seeds/seedlings about ¼-inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. They should grow to about 12 to 24 inches in height. For smaller plants, plant farther apart (about 16 to 24 inches).
During the dry periods in summer, water the plants freely.
Remember to pinch out the flower heads as soon as they appear to make sure that the leaves will continue growing.
If you’re planning on cooking with these plants, plant in clean soil (don’t use fertilizers that leave harmful residues) and grow them away from driveways and busy streets so that exhaust won’t settle on the plants.
Tomatoes make great neighbors for basil plants in the garden.
CARE
Make sure that the soil is moist. Basil plants like moisture. If you live in a hot area, use mulch around the basil plants (the mulch will help keep the soil moist).
After the seedlings have their first six leaves, prune to above the second set.
Every time a branch has six to eight leaves, repeat pruning the branches back to their first set of leaves.
After 6 weeks, pinch off the center shoot to prevent early flowering. If flowers do grow, just cut them off.
If the weather is going to be cold, be sure to harvest your basil beforehand, as the cold weather will destroy your plants.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Variety of bacterial and fungal leaf, stem, and root diseases
Ocimum basilicum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Basil is a warm-weather, fragrant herb that tastes great in Italian dishes—and let’s not forget homemade pesto! When growing basil, be sure to keep harvesting the leaves to keep the plant going strong.
The most common type of basil is sweet basil; other types include purple basil (less sweet than common basil), Lemon basil (lemon flavor), and Thai basil (licorice flavor).
Basil is easy to grow but it only grows outdoors in the summer—and only once the soil has warmed up nicely—so plan accordingly.
If you’re planning on making pesto, grow several plants. Otherwise one or two basil plants yields plenty.
PLANTING
To get a head start, start the seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
To plant outside, wait until the soil is at least 50 degrees—preferably around 70ºF for best growth. Don’t rush basil. Without heat, the plant won’t grow.
Basil needs to be in a location that gets 6 to 8 hours of full Sun daily; soil should be moist and well-drained.
Plant seeds/seedlings about ¼-inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. They should grow to about 12 to 24 inches in height. For smaller plants, plant farther apart (about 16 to 24 inches).
During the dry periods in summer, water the plants freely.
Remember to pinch out the flower heads as soon as they appear to make sure that the leaves will continue growing.
If you’re planning on cooking with these plants, plant in clean soil (don’t use fertilizers that leave harmful residues) and grow them away from driveways and busy streets so that exhaust won’t settle on the plants.
Tomatoes make great neighbors for basil plants in the garden.
CARE
Make sure that the soil is moist. Basil plants like moisture. If you live in a hot area, use mulch around the basil plants (the mulch will help keep the soil moist).
After the seedlings have their first six leaves, prune to above the second set.
Every time a branch has six to eight leaves, repeat pruning the branches back to their first set of leaves.
After 6 weeks, pinch off the center shoot to prevent early flowering. If flowers do grow, just cut them off.
If the weather is going to be cold, be sure to harvest your basil beforehand, as the cold weather will destroy your plants.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Variety of bacterial and fungal leaf, stem, and root diseases
0
1
成长记
Ueca
2017年08月05日
A little shoot found when changing the soil. You can just barely see it popping out of the soil at about 7 'o' clock (bottom left).
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Fertilizer
All plants need fertilizer to live. In traditional gardening and farming, plants get their nutrients from soil and additive such as compost, manure, and chemical fertilizers. In hydroponics, plants are not grown in soil so nutrients must be delivered directly through the solution they are watered with.
These nutrients are divided into two categories – macronutrients and micronutrients. Macronutrients are those that plants need in large amounts, including carbon, phosphorous, hydrogen, nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, potassium, magnesium and calcium.
Micronutrients are needed in tiny amounts but are essential. These include zinc, nickel, boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, boron, and chlorine.
Without these essential elements, plants are unable to build molecules, undergo enzymatic reactions, and complete the life cycle. For hydroponic gardeners, this means that without proper nutrients they cannot produce fruit or vegetables or that what they do produce would be sub par.
PH
PH is also an essential element to consider. The pH value of a nutrient solution has a huge impact on the amount of nutrition a plant can absorb. It is essential to check pH levels on a regular basis, preferably daily even if you are careful about measuring and mixing your nutrient solution correctly.
Different plants have slightly different requirements for pH value and nutrient concentration. If you are going to be growing a large variety of plants in your system make sure to research the requirements for each so that you can group them in terms of their needs.
Temperature
A single plant’s needs may also change under different environmental conditions such as weather, season, and temperature. This isn’t an issue for indoor setups that have a controlled environment but is something to consider if your system is located outside.
Nutrient solution must be kept at a steady temperature.
The ideal is at room temperature, between 70-78 degrees Fahrenheit. Again this is more of a concern for outdoor systems that are exposed to the weather. For winter, you can buy miniature water heaters that go inside of your reservoir to keep the nutrient solution warm. For summer, keeping the reservoir in a shaded area and periodically topping it off with cool water is generally sufficient to keep it from getting too hot.
Pre-Made Nutrient Solutions vs. Homemade
You can either buy a pre-made nutrient solution, or you can formulate your own. Small farms and hobbyists generally purchase pre-mixed liquid or powder concentrates that are added to water. Large-scale farms generally mix their own to the specific needs of whatever they are growing using bulk concentrates of the individual chemical compounds.
Pre-mixed concentrates usually come in two separate bottles, one for macro- and one for micro-nutrients. They are separated because some elements are incompatible with each other when concentrated and cause precipitation when they are combined. Once diluted, they do not form precipitates and can be used together without issue. Some manufacturers have managed to hold the incompatible nutrients in a chemical complex so that they do not mix –- these are sold in a single pack.
For hydroponics, twin or triple pack solutions are usually the best options. They are simple to mix and only require a few materials – a container to mix them in, a dedicated measuring cup and a stirrer. If your mixing container has a lid, you don’t even need a stirrer as you can just shake it up. The measurement is usually 3.5 mL of each concentrate per liter. Make sure to double-check the mixing instructions on the bottle, though.
Depending on the size of your system, for example with a large scale Ebb and Flow setup, you may want to mix your nutrient solution in very large quantities. 55-gallon drums make ideal mixing buckets for large systems and can store enough nutrient solution to replenish your reservoir for weeks. For smaller systems or if you do not have space for a large mixing container it is perfectly OK to mix your solution on an as-needed basis.
After mixing your solution let it sit for a few minutes and settle, then check the pH and adjust as necessary. Starting off with a perfect pH will make it easier to maintain. You can even measure the number of drops of pH Up or pH Down needed every time you mix your solution, and just add that amount to the water before mixing in your concentrate.
All plants need fertilizer to live. In traditional gardening and farming, plants get their nutrients from soil and additive such as compost, manure, and chemical fertilizers. In hydroponics, plants are not grown in soil so nutrients must be delivered directly through the solution they are watered with.
These nutrients are divided into two categories – macronutrients and micronutrients. Macronutrients are those that plants need in large amounts, including carbon, phosphorous, hydrogen, nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur, potassium, magnesium and calcium.
Micronutrients are needed in tiny amounts but are essential. These include zinc, nickel, boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, boron, and chlorine.
Without these essential elements, plants are unable to build molecules, undergo enzymatic reactions, and complete the life cycle. For hydroponic gardeners, this means that without proper nutrients they cannot produce fruit or vegetables or that what they do produce would be sub par.
PH
PH is also an essential element to consider. The pH value of a nutrient solution has a huge impact on the amount of nutrition a plant can absorb. It is essential to check pH levels on a regular basis, preferably daily even if you are careful about measuring and mixing your nutrient solution correctly.
Different plants have slightly different requirements for pH value and nutrient concentration. If you are going to be growing a large variety of plants in your system make sure to research the requirements for each so that you can group them in terms of their needs.
Temperature
A single plant’s needs may also change under different environmental conditions such as weather, season, and temperature. This isn’t an issue for indoor setups that have a controlled environment but is something to consider if your system is located outside.
Nutrient solution must be kept at a steady temperature.
The ideal is at room temperature, between 70-78 degrees Fahrenheit. Again this is more of a concern for outdoor systems that are exposed to the weather. For winter, you can buy miniature water heaters that go inside of your reservoir to keep the nutrient solution warm. For summer, keeping the reservoir in a shaded area and periodically topping it off with cool water is generally sufficient to keep it from getting too hot.
Pre-Made Nutrient Solutions vs. Homemade
You can either buy a pre-made nutrient solution, or you can formulate your own. Small farms and hobbyists generally purchase pre-mixed liquid or powder concentrates that are added to water. Large-scale farms generally mix their own to the specific needs of whatever they are growing using bulk concentrates of the individual chemical compounds.
Pre-mixed concentrates usually come in two separate bottles, one for macro- and one for micro-nutrients. They are separated because some elements are incompatible with each other when concentrated and cause precipitation when they are combined. Once diluted, they do not form precipitates and can be used together without issue. Some manufacturers have managed to hold the incompatible nutrients in a chemical complex so that they do not mix –- these are sold in a single pack.
For hydroponics, twin or triple pack solutions are usually the best options. They are simple to mix and only require a few materials – a container to mix them in, a dedicated measuring cup and a stirrer. If your mixing container has a lid, you don’t even need a stirrer as you can just shake it up. The measurement is usually 3.5 mL of each concentrate per liter. Make sure to double-check the mixing instructions on the bottle, though.
Depending on the size of your system, for example with a large scale Ebb and Flow setup, you may want to mix your nutrient solution in very large quantities. 55-gallon drums make ideal mixing buckets for large systems and can store enough nutrient solution to replenish your reservoir for weeks. For smaller systems or if you do not have space for a large mixing container it is perfectly OK to mix your solution on an as-needed basis.
After mixing your solution let it sit for a few minutes and settle, then check the pH and adjust as necessary. Starting off with a perfect pH will make it easier to maintain. You can even measure the number of drops of pH Up or pH Down needed every time you mix your solution, and just add that amount to the water before mixing in your concentrate.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Materials
Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden
Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you?
Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though.
How to Plant Roses
Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it.
To plant bareroot roses:
1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour.
2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem).
3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide.
4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden.
5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole.
6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound.
7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly.
8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil.
9.Water thoroughly.
To plant roses that come in containers:
1.Remove rose plant from the pot.
2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball.
3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide.
4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.)
5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist.
7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses
Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season.
For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days.
For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water.
Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant.
How to Fertilize Roses
First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Roses
Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant.
Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses.
Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant.
Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests
Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment.
How to Grow Roses: Recap
Select the best type of rose for your garden location.
Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown).
Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season.
Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food.
Prune roses when dormant.
Watch out for pests and disease.
Spade, hand pruners, loppers, gloves, garden hose and watering wand or nozzle, Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers or Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix, Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food, garden rake, bucket, measuring tape.
How to Choose the Right Roses for Your Garden
Roses are not one size fits all—there are multiple types, from shrub roses to hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and groundcover roses. The first step in growing roses is selecting the right rose bush or rose plant for your yard or garden. Roses, regardless of the type, grow best in full sun in well-drained soil. Putting the right plant in the right place goes a long way toward growing healthy plants. So which rose is right for you?
Shrub roses are great choices for landscape beds and foundation plantings next to the house. They tend to bloom a few times during the season. There are many new options that are pest and disease resistant. Groundcover roses add a bit of color to hot, dry, sunny areas. They’re drought-tolerant and beautiful when allowed to spill over a wall. Climbing roses are a little less cold hardy than shrub roses, so check the plant information carefully when purchasing. Hybrid teas are the classic ?bouquet? rose, and require the most hands-on care. They’ll reward you with gorgeous cut flowers, though.
How to Plant Roses
Once you’ve selected the sunny, well-drained spot for planting, it’s time to prepare the soil. The way you plant a rose depends on whether it is bareroot (usually sold with roots in a bag with some moist wood chips but no soil) or growing in a pot (container-grown) when you get it.
To plant bareroot roses:
1.Remove plants from their packaging and soak their roots in a bucket of tepid water for an hour.
2.Use a measuring tape to measure the length of the roots (from the tip of the roots to where the roots meet the stem).
3.Dig a hole that is two inches shallower than the length of the roots and twice as wide.
4.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole. If planting in a container, use with Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix. Either way, you are helping ensure that roses receive ample nutrition while establishing new roots in the garden.
5.Using the soil mixture (or potting mix for containers), build a mound in the planting hole that almost reaches to top of the hole.
6.Spread the roots evenly over the mound.
7.Fill in the hole completely with more of the soil mixture, covering the roots. Pack it firmly.
8.Spread a 2-inch layer of mulch on the surface of the planting hole, to help conserve moisture in the soil.
9.Water thoroughly.
To plant roses that come in containers:
1.Remove rose plant from the pot.
2.Use measuring tape to measure the height of the root ball.
3.Dig a planting hole that is two inches shallower than the height of the root ball, and twice as wide.
4.Place the plant in the planting hole. The top of the root ball should be about an inch above the edge of the hole. (Soil will settle over time, so you don’t want to plant the rose too deep.)
5.Mix equal parts of Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Roses (or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Flowers) and the soil removed from the planting hole, and fill in around the shrub. Cover the top of the root ball with an inch of the soil mixture. If planting in a pot, use Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix.
6.Cover the surface of the planting hole with 2 inches of mulch, to help keep soil moist.
7.Water thoroughly.
How to Water Roses
Roses need well-drained soil to flourish, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need water. Regular watering is especially important as roses are establishing new roots in the landscape. Roses are fairly drought-tolerant after the first growing season.
For the first 2 months after you first plant a rosebush, give the plant a deep, thorough soaking 2-3 times per week with a hose. If you reach your finger into the soil and the top 2 inches are still moist, however, wait a few days.
For the remainder of the first growing season, water thoroughly a couple of times per week.. Once plants are established in the landscape, you will only need to water roses during drought conditions. If the leaves take on a greyish cast or being to curl, you’ll know the plants need water.
Whenever you water, void getting water on the leaves (an invitation to disease) by directly aiming the water stream at the roots of each plant.
How to Fertilize Roses
First, allow the plants to get settled in the garden. Then, after the first month, feed plants with Miracle-Gro® Shake ’n Feed® Rose & Bloom Plant Food to help replace the nutrition your growing roses have taken up from the soil, so your plant will produce beautiful blooms. Be sure to follow label directions.
How to Prune Roses
Prune roses in very early spring, while they are still dormant.
Prune to reduce overall size by cutting each branch back to an outward-facing bud. Roses can be cut back hard, but we don’t recommend removing more than one-third to one-half of the overall growth. Wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands, and use loppers or hand pruners. Do not shear roses.
Remove old, diseased, or dead wood by cutting the affected branches down to the bottom of the plant.
Promote airflow within the shrub by removing crossing or rubbing branches within the center of the shrub. Always cut back to an outward-facing bud. You can remove up to one-half of the growth from within the center of the shrub to promote air movement.
How to Control Rose Pests
Roses can be affected by a variety of fungal, bacterial, and insect issues. Providing the plants with the good care outlined above goes a long way toward preventing these problems, but it isn’t fail-safe. Treat problems with aphids, Japanese beetles, and other pests with Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use. For diseases such as black spot and rust, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect & Disease Control. Or, consult with your local cooperative extension service for the best course of treatment.
How to Grow Roses: Recap
Select the best type of rose for your garden location.
Prepare the soil and plant the rose bush according to instructions (bareroot or container-grown).
Water regularly while the plant is getting established, and in times of drought after the first growing season.
Feed roses regularly with Miracle-Gro® plant food.
Prune roses when dormant.
Watch out for pests and disease.
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成长记
stureburk
2017年07月27日
Finally in a terracotta pot. Feel a bit bad about putting in a pot without proper draining soil for a while. Hopefully it will be fine.
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成长记
stureburk
2017年07月21日
Reported in a terracotta pot. Didn't have enough soil, but I think it will do.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月08日
The growth habit of black eyed Susan
The black eyed Susan needs well drained soil in the breeding time. It has a strong natural disposition and prefers a hot and humid environment. The temperature is between 20 and 28 degrees Celsius, and the temperature should be kept high in winter, which is better than 8 degrees celsius.
The distribution of black eyed Susan
The black eyed Susan originating from Africa in the western region.
Ornamental function
The black eyed Susan, the most important is its ornamental function when it blossoms color golden, very bright, suitable for potted cultivation, it can also be planted climbing flowers, climbing on the windowsill or near the flower shed.
The black eyed Susan needs well drained soil in the breeding time. It has a strong natural disposition and prefers a hot and humid environment. The temperature is between 20 and 28 degrees Celsius, and the temperature should be kept high in winter, which is better than 8 degrees celsius.
The distribution of black eyed Susan
The black eyed Susan originating from Africa in the western region.
Ornamental function
The black eyed Susan, the most important is its ornamental function when it blossoms color golden, very bright, suitable for potted cultivation, it can also be planted climbing flowers, climbing on the windowsill or near the flower shed.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月02日
Growth habit of Huo Xue Dan
Huoxuedan love damp environment compared to the soil, the demand is not high, usually loose fertile soil with good drainage is more suitable for the growth of.
Herbs perennial, with stolons, ascending, rooting by nodes. Stem height 10-20 (30) cm, four prism, base usually love it is warm and humid climate.
Life force is tenacious, without too much pruning.
A few pale purple red, glabrous, young parts are sparsely villous. Leaves herbaceous, lower part smaller, leaf blade heart-shaped or near kidney shaped, petiole 1-2 times as long as the leaf blade; upper part larger, leaf blade heart-shaped, 1 longer. 8-2. 7 cm, 2-3 cm wide, apex acute or obtuse triangular, base cordate, margin crenate or coarse serrate crenate, sparsely appressed hairs are coarse or puberulent, veins not obvious, often purplish, puberulous or hirsute, often only veins, veins bulge for the 1 leaf petiole length. 5 times villous.
Umbel usually 2 flowered, sparse, with 4-6 flowers; bracts and bracteoles linear, to 4 mm, ciliate. Calyx tubular, 9-11 mm long, outside pilose, especially along the rib on the inner surface of how much more, puberulent, 5 teeth, 3 teeth of upper lip, lower lip slightly longer, 2 teeth, teeth ovate triangular, short, long as calyx 1/2, apex aristate, margin ciliate.
Corolla blue, blue and purple, lower lip with dark spots, the upper corolla tube erect, gradually dilated into a bell, a long tube and the short tube type two, long barrel length 1. 7-2. 2 cm, short, usually in calyx, 1-1. 4 cm, somewhat villous outside, puberulent, inner surface only lower lip, throat sparsely pilose or glabrous, crown two lipped. Upper lip erect, 2 lobed, lobes near kidney shaped, lower lip elongate, oblique spreading, 3 cleft, middle lobe largest, kidney shaped, larger than upper lip, 1-2 times, apex concave, bilateral lobes oblong, broad, half middle lobe. Stamens 4, inside glabrous, upper lip, when born, long before facing the middle of corolla tube below lobes on both sides in short; anther locules 2, slightly apart.
Ovary 4 - lobed, glabrous. Disk cup-shaped, slightly oblique, anterior inflated. Style slender, glabrous, slightly extending, apex nearly 2, cleft. Mature nutlets dark brown, oblong ovate, ca. 1. 5 mm, ca. 1 mm wide, apex rounded, base slightly into three prism, is not obvious.
Huoxuedan love damp environment compared to the soil, the demand is not high, usually loose fertile soil with good drainage is more suitable for the growth of.
Herbs perennial, with stolons, ascending, rooting by nodes. Stem height 10-20 (30) cm, four prism, base usually love it is warm and humid climate.
Life force is tenacious, without too much pruning.
A few pale purple red, glabrous, young parts are sparsely villous. Leaves herbaceous, lower part smaller, leaf blade heart-shaped or near kidney shaped, petiole 1-2 times as long as the leaf blade; upper part larger, leaf blade heart-shaped, 1 longer. 8-2. 7 cm, 2-3 cm wide, apex acute or obtuse triangular, base cordate, margin crenate or coarse serrate crenate, sparsely appressed hairs are coarse or puberulent, veins not obvious, often purplish, puberulous or hirsute, often only veins, veins bulge for the 1 leaf petiole length. 5 times villous.
Umbel usually 2 flowered, sparse, with 4-6 flowers; bracts and bracteoles linear, to 4 mm, ciliate. Calyx tubular, 9-11 mm long, outside pilose, especially along the rib on the inner surface of how much more, puberulent, 5 teeth, 3 teeth of upper lip, lower lip slightly longer, 2 teeth, teeth ovate triangular, short, long as calyx 1/2, apex aristate, margin ciliate.
Corolla blue, blue and purple, lower lip with dark spots, the upper corolla tube erect, gradually dilated into a bell, a long tube and the short tube type two, long barrel length 1. 7-2. 2 cm, short, usually in calyx, 1-1. 4 cm, somewhat villous outside, puberulent, inner surface only lower lip, throat sparsely pilose or glabrous, crown two lipped. Upper lip erect, 2 lobed, lobes near kidney shaped, lower lip elongate, oblique spreading, 3 cleft, middle lobe largest, kidney shaped, larger than upper lip, 1-2 times, apex concave, bilateral lobes oblong, broad, half middle lobe. Stamens 4, inside glabrous, upper lip, when born, long before facing the middle of corolla tube below lobes on both sides in short; anther locules 2, slightly apart.
Ovary 4 - lobed, glabrous. Disk cup-shaped, slightly oblique, anterior inflated. Style slender, glabrous, slightly extending, apex nearly 2, cleft. Mature nutlets dark brown, oblong ovate, ca. 1. 5 mm, ca. 1 mm wide, apex rounded, base slightly into three prism, is not obvious.
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