文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Broccoli is a cool-season crop that, like spinach, can be grown in the spring or fall. Here’s how to grow broccoli in your garden.
With broccoli, you may even be able to get a continual harvest throughout the summer and fall if you practice succession gardening. A member of the cabbage family, broccoli is rich in vitamins.
PLANTING
Broccoli can germinate in soil with temperatures as low as 40ºF.
Broccoli requires full sun and moist, fertile soil that’s slightly acidic. Work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost or a thin layer of manure before planting.For spring plantings, seed or set transplants 2 to 3 weeks before last spring frost date. (See local frost dates.) If you transplant, assume 10 less days for growth or the “days to maturity” on the seed packet.
For fall plantings, seed 85 to 100 days before your average first fall frost. If you live in a warm climate, a fall planting is best, as broccoli thrives in cool weather. Plant seeds in mid- to late-summer in most places.
Plant seeds ½ inch deep, or set transplants slightly deeper than they were grown originally.
Within a row, space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart with 36 inches between each row.
Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the side heads you want to harvest.
If you overseed, you will need to thin seedlings to 12 inches apart to give room for the broccoli to grow.
CARE
Fertilize three weeks after transplanting.
Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Some varieties of broccoli are heat tolerant, but all need moisture.
Do not get developing heads wet when watering.
Roots are very shallow, do not cultivate. Suffocate weeds with mulch.
Mulch will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea Beetles
Aphids: Curling leaves may mean that the plant’s sap is being sucked by insects. Apply soapy water to all sides of leaves whenever you see aphids.
Downy mildew: Yellow patches on leaves are usually caused by moist weather. Keep leaves as dry as possible with good air circulation. Buy resistant varieties.
Cabbage loopers: Small holes on the leaves between the veins mean small green caterpillars are present. Look at the undersides of the leaves. Hand pick if the problem is small or control with Bacillus thuringiensis. Use a floating row cover just after planting through harvest to prevent caterpillars.
Cabbageworms and other worm pests: Treat same as loopers.
Cabbage root maggots
Whiteflies
Nitrogen deficiency: If the bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant, the plants need a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.
Clubroot: Quickly wilting plants may be due to this fungus in the soil. The entire plant, including all roots and root tendrils, must be gently dug up and removed. If the roots are gnarled and misshapen, then clubroot is the problem. Act quickly to remove the plants so that the fungus doesn’t continue to live in the soil. Do not compost the plants. Raise the pH of your soil to above 7.2. You may need to sterilize your soil, too.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Broccoli is a cool-season crop that, like spinach, can be grown in the spring or fall. Here’s how to grow broccoli in your garden.
With broccoli, you may even be able to get a continual harvest throughout the summer and fall if you practice succession gardening. A member of the cabbage family, broccoli is rich in vitamins.
PLANTING
Broccoli can germinate in soil with temperatures as low as 40ºF.
Broccoli requires full sun and moist, fertile soil that’s slightly acidic. Work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost or a thin layer of manure before planting.For spring plantings, seed or set transplants 2 to 3 weeks before last spring frost date. (See local frost dates.) If you transplant, assume 10 less days for growth or the “days to maturity” on the seed packet.
For fall plantings, seed 85 to 100 days before your average first fall frost. If you live in a warm climate, a fall planting is best, as broccoli thrives in cool weather. Plant seeds in mid- to late-summer in most places.
Plant seeds ½ inch deep, or set transplants slightly deeper than they were grown originally.
Within a row, space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart with 36 inches between each row.
Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the side heads you want to harvest.
If you overseed, you will need to thin seedlings to 12 inches apart to give room for the broccoli to grow.
CARE
Fertilize three weeks after transplanting.
Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Some varieties of broccoli are heat tolerant, but all need moisture.
Do not get developing heads wet when watering.
Roots are very shallow, do not cultivate. Suffocate weeds with mulch.
Mulch will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea Beetles
Aphids: Curling leaves may mean that the plant’s sap is being sucked by insects. Apply soapy water to all sides of leaves whenever you see aphids.
Downy mildew: Yellow patches on leaves are usually caused by moist weather. Keep leaves as dry as possible with good air circulation. Buy resistant varieties.
Cabbage loopers: Small holes on the leaves between the veins mean small green caterpillars are present. Look at the undersides of the leaves. Hand pick if the problem is small or control with Bacillus thuringiensis. Use a floating row cover just after planting through harvest to prevent caterpillars.
Cabbageworms and other worm pests: Treat same as loopers.
Cabbage root maggots
Whiteflies
Nitrogen deficiency: If the bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant, the plants need a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.
Clubroot: Quickly wilting plants may be due to this fungus in the soil. The entire plant, including all roots and root tendrils, must be gently dug up and removed. If the roots are gnarled and misshapen, then clubroot is the problem. Act quickly to remove the plants so that the fungus doesn’t continue to live in the soil. Do not compost the plants. Raise the pH of your soil to above 7.2. You may need to sterilize your soil, too.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Capsicum annuum
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Peppers resist most garden pests and offer something for everyone: spicy, sweet, or hot; and a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. For this page, we will focus on sweet bell peppers.
PLANTING
Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before last spring frost date.
The temperature must be at least 70° F for seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results.
Start pepper seeds three to a pot, and thin out the weakest seedling. Let the remaining two pepper plants spend their entire lives together as one plant. The leaves of two plants help protect peppers against sunscald and the yield is often twice as good as two segregated plants.
Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting.
A week before transplanting, introduce fertilizer or aged compost into your garden soil.
After the danger of frost has passed, transplant seedlings outdoors, 18 to 24 inches apart (but keep paired plants close to touching.)
Soil should be at least 65° F, as peppers will not survive transplanting at temps any colder. Northern gardeners can warm up the soil by covering it with black plastic.
Put two or three match sticks in the hole with each plant, along with about a teaspoon of fertilizer. These give the plants a bit of sulfur, which they like.
CARE
Soil should be well drained, but be sure to maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering.
Water one to two inches per week, but remember that peppers are extremely heat sensitive. If you live in a warm or desert climate, watering everyday may be necessary.
Fertilize after the first fruit set.
Weed carefully around plants.
If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.
For larger fruit, spray the plants with a solution of one tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water, once when it begins to bloom, and once ten days later.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Flea Beetles
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Blossom-End Rot appears as a soft, sunken area which turns darker in color.
Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60° F and above 90° F.
Too much nitrogen will reduce fruit from setting.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Peppers resist most garden pests and offer something for everyone: spicy, sweet, or hot; and a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. For this page, we will focus on sweet bell peppers.
PLANTING
Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before last spring frost date.
The temperature must be at least 70° F for seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results.
Start pepper seeds three to a pot, and thin out the weakest seedling. Let the remaining two pepper plants spend their entire lives together as one plant. The leaves of two plants help protect peppers against sunscald and the yield is often twice as good as two segregated plants.
Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting.
A week before transplanting, introduce fertilizer or aged compost into your garden soil.
After the danger of frost has passed, transplant seedlings outdoors, 18 to 24 inches apart (but keep paired plants close to touching.)
Soil should be at least 65° F, as peppers will not survive transplanting at temps any colder. Northern gardeners can warm up the soil by covering it with black plastic.
Put two or three match sticks in the hole with each plant, along with about a teaspoon of fertilizer. These give the plants a bit of sulfur, which they like.
CARE
Soil should be well drained, but be sure to maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering.
Water one to two inches per week, but remember that peppers are extremely heat sensitive. If you live in a warm or desert climate, watering everyday may be necessary.
Fertilize after the first fruit set.
Weed carefully around plants.
If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.
For larger fruit, spray the plants with a solution of one tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water, once when it begins to bloom, and once ten days later.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Flea Beetles
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Blossom-End Rot appears as a soft, sunken area which turns darker in color.
Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60° F and above 90° F.
Too much nitrogen will reduce fruit from setting.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Beta vulgaris
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Beets are a cool season vegetable crop. This root veggie grows quickly and has many different varieties, which showcase deep red, yellow, or white bulbs of different shapes.
Beets can survive frost and almost freezing temperatures, which makes them a great choice for northern gardeners and an excellent long-season crop.
PLANTING
A soil pH above 5.5–6 is best, otherwise growth will be stunted. Beets are a good indicator of soil pH.
Till in aged manure before planting. Beets require especially good nutrition and a high phosphorus level to germinate. Go easy on nitrogen however, an excess will cause sprawling greens and tiny bulbs beneath the soil. Wait until soil reaches 50°F before planting.
Plant seeds ½ inch deep and 1-2 inches apart.
Make sure soil remains moist for germination.
In zones with low moisture and rainfall, soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting.
Early crop can be planted in March/April, and late crop anytime from June to September. Successive plantings are also possible as long as the weather doesn’t exceed 75°F. Space plantings about 20 days apart.
Winter crops are a definite possibility in Zone 9 and above.
CARE
Thinning is necessary, as you may get more than one seedling out of each seed. Thin when they reach about 2 inches high by pinching them off. Pulling them out of the ground may disturb the roots of nearby seedlings.
Established plants should be thinned to 3–4 inches between plants.
Mulch and water well. Beets need to maintain plenty of moisture.
Any necessary cultivation should be gentle, beets have shallow roots that are easily disturbed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea Beetles
Leaf Hoppers
Mexican Bean Beetles
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Beets are a cool season vegetable crop. This root veggie grows quickly and has many different varieties, which showcase deep red, yellow, or white bulbs of different shapes.
Beets can survive frost and almost freezing temperatures, which makes them a great choice for northern gardeners and an excellent long-season crop.
PLANTING
A soil pH above 5.5–6 is best, otherwise growth will be stunted. Beets are a good indicator of soil pH.
Till in aged manure before planting. Beets require especially good nutrition and a high phosphorus level to germinate. Go easy on nitrogen however, an excess will cause sprawling greens and tiny bulbs beneath the soil. Wait until soil reaches 50°F before planting.
Plant seeds ½ inch deep and 1-2 inches apart.
Make sure soil remains moist for germination.
In zones with low moisture and rainfall, soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting.
Early crop can be planted in March/April, and late crop anytime from June to September. Successive plantings are also possible as long as the weather doesn’t exceed 75°F. Space plantings about 20 days apart.
Winter crops are a definite possibility in Zone 9 and above.
CARE
Thinning is necessary, as you may get more than one seedling out of each seed. Thin when they reach about 2 inches high by pinching them off. Pulling them out of the ground may disturb the roots of nearby seedlings.
Established plants should be thinned to 3–4 inches between plants.
Mulch and water well. Beets need to maintain plenty of moisture.
Any necessary cultivation should be gentle, beets have shallow roots that are easily disturbed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea Beetles
Leaf Hoppers
Mexican Bean Beetles
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Phaseolus vulgaris
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Green beans are delicious eaten fresh off the plant or incorporated into a recipe.
The main difference between bush and pole beans is the plants’ growing styles: bush beans tend to grow more compactly and do not require support, while pole beans will vine and need to be grown up stakes or trellises. Bush beans generally require less maintenance and are easier to grow, but pole beans typically yield more beans and are very disease resistant.
PLANTING
Pole beans will grow as a climbing vine that may reach up to 15 feet tall. Therefore, pole beans require a trellis or staking. Bush beans will spread up to 2 feet, but do not require support. Watch this video to learn how to support beans properly.
Do not start seeds indoors; they may not survive transplanting.
Seeds can be sown outdoors anytime after the last spring frost; minimum soil temperature is 48 degrees F. Plant 1 inch deep in normal soil, and a little deeper for sandier soils. Cover soil to warm if necessary.
Bush beans: Plant 2 inches apart.
Pole beans: Set up trellises, or “cattle panels,” and plant 3 inches apart.
If you like pole beans, an easy support for them is a “cattle panel”—a portable section of wire fence—16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease and you won’t have to get into contorted positions to pick them.
For a harvest that lasts all summer, sow beans every 2 weeks. If you’re going to be away, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone.
Rotate crops each year.
CARE
Mulch soil to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-drained.
Water regularly, from start of pod to set. Water on sunny days so foliage will not remain soaked.
Beans require normal soil fertility. Only fertilize where levels are low. Begin after heavy bloom and set of pods.
Use a light hand when applying high-nitrogen fertilizer, or you will get lush foliage and few beans.
Weed diligently and use shallow cultivation to prevent disturbing the root systems.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Mexican Bean Beetles
Japanese Beetles
Cucumber Beetles
White Mold
Mosaic Viruses
Woodchucks
Cutworms
Bean blossoms will drop from the plant if the weather is too hot, and too much nitrogen in the soil will prevent pods from setting.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Green beans are delicious eaten fresh off the plant or incorporated into a recipe.
The main difference between bush and pole beans is the plants’ growing styles: bush beans tend to grow more compactly and do not require support, while pole beans will vine and need to be grown up stakes or trellises. Bush beans generally require less maintenance and are easier to grow, but pole beans typically yield more beans and are very disease resistant.
PLANTING
Pole beans will grow as a climbing vine that may reach up to 15 feet tall. Therefore, pole beans require a trellis or staking. Bush beans will spread up to 2 feet, but do not require support. Watch this video to learn how to support beans properly.
Do not start seeds indoors; they may not survive transplanting.
Seeds can be sown outdoors anytime after the last spring frost; minimum soil temperature is 48 degrees F. Plant 1 inch deep in normal soil, and a little deeper for sandier soils. Cover soil to warm if necessary.
Bush beans: Plant 2 inches apart.
Pole beans: Set up trellises, or “cattle panels,” and plant 3 inches apart.
If you like pole beans, an easy support for them is a “cattle panel”—a portable section of wire fence—16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease and you won’t have to get into contorted positions to pick them.
For a harvest that lasts all summer, sow beans every 2 weeks. If you’re going to be away, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone.
Rotate crops each year.
CARE
Mulch soil to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-drained.
Water regularly, from start of pod to set. Water on sunny days so foliage will not remain soaked.
Beans require normal soil fertility. Only fertilize where levels are low. Begin after heavy bloom and set of pods.
Use a light hand when applying high-nitrogen fertilizer, or you will get lush foliage and few beans.
Weed diligently and use shallow cultivation to prevent disturbing the root systems.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Mexican Bean Beetles
Japanese Beetles
Cucumber Beetles
White Mold
Mosaic Viruses
Woodchucks
Cutworms
Bean blossoms will drop from the plant if the weather is too hot, and too much nitrogen in the soil will prevent pods from setting.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Asparagus officinalis
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Asparagus is a perennial bulb and stem vegetable that greets us every spring. Here’s how to grow asparagus in your garden.
Asparagus plants may take 2 to 3 years to truly get started and produce, so patience is needed! But then again, the plant can be productive up to 20 years, so we think it’s worth the wait.
Asparagus has male and female plants, with the female plants producing berries. Regions with cool winters are best for this cool-season crop.
PLANTING
Asparagus is planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. The plant is grown from “crowns” (1-year-old plants).
Eliminate all weeds from the bed, digging it over and working in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost, manure or soil mix. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Dig trenches of about 6 inches wide and 6 to 12 inches deep. Some experts believe shallow trenches of 6 inches are best.
Asparagus does not like to have its feet “wet,” so be sure your bed has good drainage. For that reason, raised beds can be a good place to plant asparagus. Learn how to make a raised garden bed.
Create a mound in the trench and plant the crowns 15 to 18 inches apart, spreading the roots over the ridge.
Cover the roots and crowns with soil 2 inches deep and water thoroughly.
As the stems grow, fill in the rest of the trench with soil, leaving 3 to 4 inches of the stem exposed.
For more planting tips, see our page on growing asparagus from seed.
CARE
When the trench is filled, add a 4 to 8 inch layer of mulch and water regularly.
Do not harvest the spears in the first year, but cut down dead foliage in late fall and side-dress with compost.
During the second year, keep the bed thickly mulched, side-dress in spring and early fall, and cut down dead foliage in late fall.
PESTS/DISEASES
Asparagus beetles
Cutworms
Slugs
Crown rot
Rust
Asparagus is considered a deer-resistant plant, so plant it near more susceptible crops.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Asparagus is a perennial bulb and stem vegetable that greets us every spring. Here’s how to grow asparagus in your garden.
Asparagus plants may take 2 to 3 years to truly get started and produce, so patience is needed! But then again, the plant can be productive up to 20 years, so we think it’s worth the wait.
Asparagus has male and female plants, with the female plants producing berries. Regions with cool winters are best for this cool-season crop.
PLANTING
Asparagus is planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. The plant is grown from “crowns” (1-year-old plants).
Eliminate all weeds from the bed, digging it over and working in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost, manure or soil mix. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Dig trenches of about 6 inches wide and 6 to 12 inches deep. Some experts believe shallow trenches of 6 inches are best.
Asparagus does not like to have its feet “wet,” so be sure your bed has good drainage. For that reason, raised beds can be a good place to plant asparagus. Learn how to make a raised garden bed.
Create a mound in the trench and plant the crowns 15 to 18 inches apart, spreading the roots over the ridge.
Cover the roots and crowns with soil 2 inches deep and water thoroughly.
As the stems grow, fill in the rest of the trench with soil, leaving 3 to 4 inches of the stem exposed.
For more planting tips, see our page on growing asparagus from seed.
CARE
When the trench is filled, add a 4 to 8 inch layer of mulch and water regularly.
Do not harvest the spears in the first year, but cut down dead foliage in late fall and side-dress with compost.
During the second year, keep the bed thickly mulched, side-dress in spring and early fall, and cut down dead foliage in late fall.
PESTS/DISEASES
Asparagus beetles
Cutworms
Slugs
Crown rot
Rust
Asparagus is considered a deer-resistant plant, so plant it near more susceptible crops.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Chlorophytum Comosum
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: White
Spider Plants or Airplane Plants produce arched green and pale yellow stems that extend to be 12-18 inches long. When less than a year old, Spider Plants may produce tiny white flowers during the summer. These easy-to-grow plants look especially nice in a hanging basket.
PLANTING
Grow in soil-based potting mix in bright to moderate sunlight, but not directly facing hot sun.
Maintain average room temperature and humidity.
CARE
During growth, water occasionally; once fully developed (within one year), water moderately.
In the spring and summer months keep the soil moist. Do not let soil dry out.
Fertilize twice a month in the spring and summer, however, avoid overfertilization.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to tip burn from dry soil or salt and fluoride found in some public water. Keep the soil slightly moist. Avoid using fluoridated water.
To rid of the brown discs on leaves, use your fingernail to remove the brown residue every few days.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: White
Spider Plants or Airplane Plants produce arched green and pale yellow stems that extend to be 12-18 inches long. When less than a year old, Spider Plants may produce tiny white flowers during the summer. These easy-to-grow plants look especially nice in a hanging basket.
PLANTING
Grow in soil-based potting mix in bright to moderate sunlight, but not directly facing hot sun.
Maintain average room temperature and humidity.
CARE
During growth, water occasionally; once fully developed (within one year), water moderately.
In the spring and summer months keep the soil moist. Do not let soil dry out.
Fertilize twice a month in the spring and summer, however, avoid overfertilization.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to tip burn from dry soil or salt and fluoride found in some public water. Keep the soil slightly moist. Avoid using fluoridated water.
To rid of the brown discs on leaves, use your fingernail to remove the brown residue every few days.
3
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pelargonium
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: Multicolor
Geraniums are a longtime favorite of Almanac gardeners. They are easy to grow, colorful, and many add a lovely scent to the home. Although, they are also an outdoor plant, they can be kept indoors to overwinter. Or, they can bloom indoors all year long with enough light.
PLANTING
When buying geraniums, look for color and size. Healthy leaves will have no discoloration on or below them and stems will be sturdy, not straggly. Be sure to avoid any plants with obvious signs of pests as well.
Place plants in pots with drainage holes to avoid root rot. Do not use a saucer beneath your pot unless filled with pebbles.
Use soil-less potting mixture (not dirt) when planting in containers.
For maximum bloom, place the plants in an area where they will get 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
CARE
Allow to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly.
During the winter water much less, but do not let the roots dry out.
To encourage blooming, deadhead spent flowers.
To promote bushiness and avoid legginess, pinch the stems.
During active growing months, fertilize every 2 weeks. Use a water-soluable fertilizer at half strength. Don’t fertilize in winter.
Geraniums can be re-potted as needed during the spring to be refreshed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Common problems can be low light or too much or too little water. The leaves will turn yellow as an indication you are watering too little or too much in which case, try to even the watering out and move the geraniums to a brighter place.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: Multicolor
Geraniums are a longtime favorite of Almanac gardeners. They are easy to grow, colorful, and many add a lovely scent to the home. Although, they are also an outdoor plant, they can be kept indoors to overwinter. Or, they can bloom indoors all year long with enough light.
PLANTING
When buying geraniums, look for color and size. Healthy leaves will have no discoloration on or below them and stems will be sturdy, not straggly. Be sure to avoid any plants with obvious signs of pests as well.
Place plants in pots with drainage holes to avoid root rot. Do not use a saucer beneath your pot unless filled with pebbles.
Use soil-less potting mixture (not dirt) when planting in containers.
For maximum bloom, place the plants in an area where they will get 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
CARE
Allow to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly.
During the winter water much less, but do not let the roots dry out.
To encourage blooming, deadhead spent flowers.
To promote bushiness and avoid legginess, pinch the stems.
During active growing months, fertilize every 2 weeks. Use a water-soluable fertilizer at half strength. Don’t fertilize in winter.
Geraniums can be re-potted as needed during the spring to be refreshed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Common problems can be low light or too much or too little water. The leaves will turn yellow as an indication you are watering too little or too much in which case, try to even the watering out and move the geraniums to a brighter place.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Saintpaulia
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rhododendron
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Acidic
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Birds
Rhododendrons and azaleas, both from the genus Rhododendron, have long been mainstays of late spring because of their spectacular clusters of showy blooms—plus, largeThe flowers are usually tubular-, funnel-, or bell-shaped—and often fragrant. The leaves of the smaller azalea are usually pointed and narrow; the leaves of the rhododendron are generally large and leathery.
These shrubs prefer climates with adequate rainfall and moist summers. The two main azalea groups, evergreen and deciduous (varieties that drop their leaves in the fall) can be found in nearly every part of North America, from the frosty Canadian plains to tropical Florida. The rhododendron types are fussier, preferring environments where it is neither too hot nor too cold (Zones 5 to 8). They need a certain amount of chilling to develop strong flower buds.
With thousands of varieties, there are rhododendrons and azaleas for just about every landscape situation. There are low-growing ground cover azaleas, plants that grow from 1 to 2 feet, as well as plants that can grow up to 25 feet tall. They come in many flower colors, including pink, red, white, yellow, and purple. Though most plants flower in the spring, there are also summer-blooming varieties that add color and charm to the garden. green leaves that often stay green through winter.
PLANTING
Plant in spring or early fall.
Most large-leafed varieties require dappled shade; avoid deep shade or full sun. A sunny spot that receives a few hours of shade is perfect.
Soil should be well-drained, humus-rich, moist, and acidic (pH 4.5–6).
Amend planting areas with compost, peat moss, or a substitute, only if your soil is poor. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Azaleas and rhododendrons have shallow root systems and need moist soil and mulch to keep them from drying out.
When shopping for plants, pay attention to when they flower. Early varieties can blossom in March, late ones into July or even the fall.
Buy plants that are a deep green (not yellowed), not wilted, and well watered. Check the soil in the container with your finger and avoid plants that are bone dry.
Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 times as wide.
Set new plants so that their top roots are at soil level or slightly below. If you plant them any deeper, the roots may rot.
Fill the hole half full with soil, then water it well to settle the soil before filling with remainder of soil.
CARE
Mulch plants every spring with 2 to 5 inches of pine bark chips or pine needles to protect shallow roots, retain soil moisture, and keep the soil damp. A lack of water reduces flower-bud formation. (Keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk.)
Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons sparingly and only when flower buds swell in the early spring, even if they are fall bloomers. Heavy applications of fertilizer will burn the plants.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
After flowering, deadhead where practical, to promote vegetative growth rather than seed production. Remove dead flowers from rhododendrons carefully; next year’s buds are just under the old heads.
In regions with severe winters, wrap evergreen rhododendrons with burlap in the fall.
Transplant azaleas and rhododendrons whenever the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
Warm-Weather Advisory (Zones 7 to 11)
If your weather heats to above 90°F in spring, avoid white-flowered azaleas. Their thin petals shatter in the heat.
Plant in a site that receives afternoon shade, especially in hot areas. In tropical zones, azaleas will bloom in full shade.
Buy plants in 3-gallon cans rather than 1-gallon cans. They’re a better bargain in hot climates. Small plants, with their fewer roots, struggle in the hot late spring and summer.
Cold-Zone Reminders (Zones 3 to 6)
Plant in full sun to increase flowers and avoid mildew problems. Shrubs need a minimum of 6 hours of full sun daily.
Plant on the sheltered side of a windbreak. If subjected to cold, dry winds, their leaves and buds dry out and die.
Pruning
In general, do not prune spring-flowering shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons. If you need to reduce height, prune after flowering in the spring.
Otherwise, just remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches anytime.
On young and old plants, simply snap off spent flower stalks by bending them over until they break away from their stems. Be careful not to damage growth buds at the base of each flower stalk.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to vine weevil, whiteflies, leafhoppers, lacebugs, scale insects, caterpillars, aphids, powdery mildew, bud blast, rust, leafy gall, petal blight.
If soil is not sufficiently acidic, root rot and lime-induced chlorosis could occur.
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Acidic
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Birds
Rhododendrons and azaleas, both from the genus Rhododendron, have long been mainstays of late spring because of their spectacular clusters of showy blooms—plus, largeThe flowers are usually tubular-, funnel-, or bell-shaped—and often fragrant. The leaves of the smaller azalea are usually pointed and narrow; the leaves of the rhododendron are generally large and leathery.
These shrubs prefer climates with adequate rainfall and moist summers. The two main azalea groups, evergreen and deciduous (varieties that drop their leaves in the fall) can be found in nearly every part of North America, from the frosty Canadian plains to tropical Florida. The rhododendron types are fussier, preferring environments where it is neither too hot nor too cold (Zones 5 to 8). They need a certain amount of chilling to develop strong flower buds.
With thousands of varieties, there are rhododendrons and azaleas for just about every landscape situation. There are low-growing ground cover azaleas, plants that grow from 1 to 2 feet, as well as plants that can grow up to 25 feet tall. They come in many flower colors, including pink, red, white, yellow, and purple. Though most plants flower in the spring, there are also summer-blooming varieties that add color and charm to the garden. green leaves that often stay green through winter.
PLANTING
Plant in spring or early fall.
Most large-leafed varieties require dappled shade; avoid deep shade or full sun. A sunny spot that receives a few hours of shade is perfect.
Soil should be well-drained, humus-rich, moist, and acidic (pH 4.5–6).
Amend planting areas with compost, peat moss, or a substitute, only if your soil is poor. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Azaleas and rhododendrons have shallow root systems and need moist soil and mulch to keep them from drying out.
When shopping for plants, pay attention to when they flower. Early varieties can blossom in March, late ones into July or even the fall.
Buy plants that are a deep green (not yellowed), not wilted, and well watered. Check the soil in the container with your finger and avoid plants that are bone dry.
Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 times as wide.
Set new plants so that their top roots are at soil level or slightly below. If you plant them any deeper, the roots may rot.
Fill the hole half full with soil, then water it well to settle the soil before filling with remainder of soil.
CARE
Mulch plants every spring with 2 to 5 inches of pine bark chips or pine needles to protect shallow roots, retain soil moisture, and keep the soil damp. A lack of water reduces flower-bud formation. (Keep mulch a few inches away from the trunk.)
Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons sparingly and only when flower buds swell in the early spring, even if they are fall bloomers. Heavy applications of fertilizer will burn the plants.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
After flowering, deadhead where practical, to promote vegetative growth rather than seed production. Remove dead flowers from rhododendrons carefully; next year’s buds are just under the old heads.
In regions with severe winters, wrap evergreen rhododendrons with burlap in the fall.
Transplant azaleas and rhododendrons whenever the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
Warm-Weather Advisory (Zones 7 to 11)
If your weather heats to above 90°F in spring, avoid white-flowered azaleas. Their thin petals shatter in the heat.
Plant in a site that receives afternoon shade, especially in hot areas. In tropical zones, azaleas will bloom in full shade.
Buy plants in 3-gallon cans rather than 1-gallon cans. They’re a better bargain in hot climates. Small plants, with their fewer roots, struggle in the hot late spring and summer.
Cold-Zone Reminders (Zones 3 to 6)
Plant in full sun to increase flowers and avoid mildew problems. Shrubs need a minimum of 6 hours of full sun daily.
Plant on the sheltered side of a windbreak. If subjected to cold, dry winds, their leaves and buds dry out and die.
Pruning
In general, do not prune spring-flowering shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons. If you need to reduce height, prune after flowering in the spring.
Otherwise, just remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches anytime.
On young and old plants, simply snap off spent flower stalks by bending them over until they break away from their stems. Be careful not to damage growth buds at the base of each flower stalk.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to vine weevil, whiteflies, leafhoppers, lacebugs, scale insects, caterpillars, aphids, powdery mildew, bud blast, rust, leafy gall, petal blight.
If soil is not sufficiently acidic, root rot and lime-induced chlorosis could occur.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Syringa
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Lilacs do come in seven colors, but most are familiar with the common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, which blooms in the northern states for 2 weeks in late May. However, there are early-, mid-, and late-season lilacs, which, when grown together, ensure a steady bloom for at least 6 weeks.
Lilacs are hardy, easy to grow, and low maintenance. They can grow from 5 to 15 feet tall, depending on the variety. The fragrant flowers are good for cutting and attractive to butterflies.
PLANTING
Grow lilacs in fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil (at a pH near 7.0). If your soil is in poor condition, add compost to enrich. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Select a site where your lilac will get full sun—at least 6 hours. If lilacs don’t get enough sun, they will not bloom well.
Make sure the site drains well. Lilacs don’t like wet feet and will not bloom with too much water.
Plant in either spring or fall, although the latter is preferred.
If you’re lucky, a friend will give you a sucker, or offshoot, of the root system of one of his plants. Your sucker will look pathetic at first but just dig a hole, backfill it with soil, and stick the sucker in. Then water and wait. In 4 or 5 years, you’ll be rewarded with huge, fragrant blossoms.
Transplanting lilacs from a nursery is also easy. If it’s container-grown, spread out the roots as you settle the plant into the ground; if it’s balled or burlapped, gently remove the covering and any rope before planting. Set the plant 2 or 3 inches deeper than it grew in the nursery, and work topsoil in around the roots. Water in. Then fill in the hole with more topsoil.
Space multiple lilac bushes 5 to 15 feet apart, depending on the variety.
CARE
Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant, followed by mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Lilacs won’t bloom if they’re overfertilized. They can handle a handful of 10-10-10 in late winter, but no more.
After your lilac bush has finished blooming, spread some lime and well-rotted manure around the base. Trim the bush to shape it, and remove suckers at the same time.
Pruning Lilacs
Lilacs bloom on old wood, so it’s critical to prune in the spring right after they bloom. If you prune later in the summer, you may be removing the wood. Here’s a tip: If your lilac flower clusters are getting smaller, time to prune!
Every year after bloom, remove any dead wood. Prune out the oldest canes (down to the ground). Remove the small suckers. Cut back weak branches to a strong shoot. Cut back tall canes to eye height.
If your lilac is old and in really bad shape, remove one-third of the oldest canes (down to the ground) in year one, half of the remaining old wood in year two, and the rest of the old wood in year three. Another option for old lilacs is to chop the whole thing back to about 6 or 8 inches high. It sounds drastic, but lilacs are very hardy. The downside to this option is that it takes a few years to grow back. The upside is less work and more reward, as the lilac will grow back bursting with blooms.
It must be recognized that severe pruning results in the loss of blooms for one to three years. For these reasons, a wise pruning program aims to avoid severe and drastic cuts by giving the bushes annual attention.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to attack by slugs and snails.
Powdery white mildew may appear after a summer of hot, humid weather. It may be unsightly, but it does no harm. Ignore it.
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Lilacs do come in seven colors, but most are familiar with the common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, which blooms in the northern states for 2 weeks in late May. However, there are early-, mid-, and late-season lilacs, which, when grown together, ensure a steady bloom for at least 6 weeks.
Lilacs are hardy, easy to grow, and low maintenance. They can grow from 5 to 15 feet tall, depending on the variety. The fragrant flowers are good for cutting and attractive to butterflies.
PLANTING
Grow lilacs in fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil (at a pH near 7.0). If your soil is in poor condition, add compost to enrich. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Select a site where your lilac will get full sun—at least 6 hours. If lilacs don’t get enough sun, they will not bloom well.
Make sure the site drains well. Lilacs don’t like wet feet and will not bloom with too much water.
Plant in either spring or fall, although the latter is preferred.
If you’re lucky, a friend will give you a sucker, or offshoot, of the root system of one of his plants. Your sucker will look pathetic at first but just dig a hole, backfill it with soil, and stick the sucker in. Then water and wait. In 4 or 5 years, you’ll be rewarded with huge, fragrant blossoms.
Transplanting lilacs from a nursery is also easy. If it’s container-grown, spread out the roots as you settle the plant into the ground; if it’s balled or burlapped, gently remove the covering and any rope before planting. Set the plant 2 or 3 inches deeper than it grew in the nursery, and work topsoil in around the roots. Water in. Then fill in the hole with more topsoil.
Space multiple lilac bushes 5 to 15 feet apart, depending on the variety.
CARE
Each spring, apply a layer of compost under the plant, followed by mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Lilacs won’t bloom if they’re overfertilized. They can handle a handful of 10-10-10 in late winter, but no more.
After your lilac bush has finished blooming, spread some lime and well-rotted manure around the base. Trim the bush to shape it, and remove suckers at the same time.
Pruning Lilacs
Lilacs bloom on old wood, so it’s critical to prune in the spring right after they bloom. If you prune later in the summer, you may be removing the wood. Here’s a tip: If your lilac flower clusters are getting smaller, time to prune!
Every year after bloom, remove any dead wood. Prune out the oldest canes (down to the ground). Remove the small suckers. Cut back weak branches to a strong shoot. Cut back tall canes to eye height.
If your lilac is old and in really bad shape, remove one-third of the oldest canes (down to the ground) in year one, half of the remaining old wood in year two, and the rest of the old wood in year three. Another option for old lilacs is to chop the whole thing back to about 6 or 8 inches high. It sounds drastic, but lilacs are very hardy. The downside to this option is that it takes a few years to grow back. The upside is less work and more reward, as the lilac will grow back bursting with blooms.
It must be recognized that severe pruning results in the loss of blooms for one to three years. For these reasons, a wise pruning program aims to avoid severe and drastic cuts by giving the bushes annual attention.
PESTS/DISEASES
Prone to attack by slugs and snails.
Powdery white mildew may appear after a summer of hot, humid weather. It may be unsightly, but it does no harm. Ignore it.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Hydrangea
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: AcidicNeutralNeutral to Slightly AlkalineSlightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Colors also beguile with clear blues, vibrant pinks, frosty whites, lavender, and rose—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!
The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
Unrivaled in the shrub world, these elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce flowers in mid-summer through fall (when little else may be in bloom). Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers.
PLANTING
Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas (see Recommended Varieties below).
Plant in spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly.
Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.
CARE
For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions are about pruning a hydrangea. And no wonder it’s confusing! It depends on the variety of hydrangea.
Common Hydrangea Shrubs
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, H. macrophylla). One type of Bigleaf is the “Mophead” with the big snowball-size blooms. The other type of Bigleaf is the “Lacecap” with the pretty flowers almost hanging down from a flat center of tiny blooms.
The Bigleaf variety, or H. macrophylla, as well as H. paniculata and H. quercifolia are pruned AFTER the flowers fade.
Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old or neglected or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also renovate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
Other Hydrangeas
Oakleaf, panicle, and smooth hydrangeas are treated differently. They blossom on the current season’s wood. They should be pruned in the later winter when the plant is dormant BEFORE bloom. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, they will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
PESTS/DISEASES
Click links for common pest pages:
Gray mold
Slugs
Powdery mildew
Rust
Ringspot virus
Leaf spots
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: AcidicNeutralNeutral to Slightly AlkalineSlightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
With immense flower heads, hydrangeas flaunt an old-fashioned charm that is hard to resist. Colors also beguile with clear blues, vibrant pinks, frosty whites, lavender, and rose—sometimes all blooming on the same plant!
The colors of some hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap—can change color based on the soil pH, which affects relative availability of aluminum ions. Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 5.5 product pink flowers. White flowers are not affected by pH.
Unrivaled in the shrub world, these elegant ladies are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce flowers in mid-summer through fall (when little else may be in bloom). Hydrangeas are excellent for a range of garden sites from group plantings to shrub borders to containers.
PLANTING
Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. Add compost to enrich poor soil.
They prefer full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade; however, many will grow and bloom in partial shade. This is especially true for the bigleaf hydrangeas (see Recommended Varieties below).
Plant in spring or fall.
Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
Water thoroughly.
Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.
CARE
For the first year or two after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to feed the plants once a year in late winter or spring. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Learn more about soil amendments.
In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves, pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire, and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they will break down too quickly.)
How to Prune a Hydrangea
Many of our readers’ questions are about pruning a hydrangea. And no wonder it’s confusing! It depends on the variety of hydrangea.
Common Hydrangea Shrubs
The most common garden hydrangea shrub is the Bigleaf variety, H. macrophylla). One type of Bigleaf is the “Mophead” with the big snowball-size blooms. The other type of Bigleaf is the “Lacecap” with the pretty flowers almost hanging down from a flat center of tiny blooms.
The Bigleaf variety, or H. macrophylla, as well as H. paniculata and H. quercifolia are pruned AFTER the flowers fade.
Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterwards the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
If the plant is old or neglected or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also renovate the plant for future years.
It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
Other Hydrangeas
Oakleaf, panicle, and smooth hydrangeas are treated differently. They blossom on the current season’s wood. They should be pruned in the later winter when the plant is dormant BEFORE bloom. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, they will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
PESTS/DISEASES
Click links for common pest pages:
Gray mold
Slugs
Powdery mildew
Rust
Ringspot virus
Leaf spots
3
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Buddleia davidii
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
The Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) is a beautiful, fast-growing, deciduous shrub with masses of blossoms—long, seductively spiked trusses—that bloom from summer to autumn.
The flowers come in many colors, though butterflies prefer the lavenderpink (mauve) of the species to the white and dark purple cultivars.
Butterfly bushes are hardy to zone 5 and remains evergreen from zone 8 south. The shrub is also low-maintenance, only requiring dead-heading and annual pruning in later winter to encourage flowers and a compact shape.
INVASIVE CONCERNS
Please note that the popular Butterfly Bush, imported from China, is now being classified as an invasive species in most regions, which means it’s crowding out native food that is essential to wildlife, including butterflies and birds. In more gentle climates, it can become a noxious weed. In other climates, it seems to stay contained within a garden’s cultivated soil if gardeners deadhead the flowers once spent.
Also, despite the “butterfly” name, keep in mind that this shrub is not a “host plant” for butterflies in that it does not support butterfly reproduction and lifecycle. Rather, it provides nectar to adult butterflies; think of nectar as their favorite adult beverage! If you do have a Butterfly Bush, be sure to add native host plants such as milkweed if you want the butterflies to stay. See plants that attract butterflies.
PLANTING
Buddleias need full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant in spring or fall. See your local frost dates.
Loosen the soil, mix in compost, and dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant container.
When placing the plant in the hole, the top of the rootball should be level with the soil surface
Space plants 5 to 10 feet apart, depending on the variety.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Water freely when in growth and sparingly otherwise. In the summer, water if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Avoid fertilizing butterfly bush; too much fertility promotes leaf growth over flower production.
Remove spent flower spikes to encourage new shoots and flower buds.
In addition, it is important to deadhead the flowers just as they start to wither so that this invasive plant doesn’t spread volunteer seeds. Deadheading of this invasive is now required in many states.
Each spring, apply a thin layer of compost and mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
In cold, Northern climates, spread mulch up to 6 inches deep around the trunk to nurture it through the winter.
Buddleias are very late to break dormancy, so don’t be in a hurry to assess winter damage.
The bush should bloom abundantly even in its first year. In warmer climates, the bushes will grow into trees and develop rugged trunks that peel; peeling is normal.
In the northern limit of their range, they behave as herbaceous perennials, dying back to the root in cold winters.
Since they bloom on new wood, even if there is no die-back, cut them back to the ground every spring. Yes, hack to the ground!
Even where winters are mild enough for the stems to survive, prune severely to stimulate abundant growth on which flowers are borne.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to capsid bug, caterpillars, weevils, mullein moth, and spider mites.
Fungal leaf spots and die-backs can occur.
Butterfly bushes are one of many deer-resistant plants.
PLANT TYPE: Shrub
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
The Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) is a beautiful, fast-growing, deciduous shrub with masses of blossoms—long, seductively spiked trusses—that bloom from summer to autumn.
The flowers come in many colors, though butterflies prefer the lavenderpink (mauve) of the species to the white and dark purple cultivars.
Butterfly bushes are hardy to zone 5 and remains evergreen from zone 8 south. The shrub is also low-maintenance, only requiring dead-heading and annual pruning in later winter to encourage flowers and a compact shape.
INVASIVE CONCERNS
Please note that the popular Butterfly Bush, imported from China, is now being classified as an invasive species in most regions, which means it’s crowding out native food that is essential to wildlife, including butterflies and birds. In more gentle climates, it can become a noxious weed. In other climates, it seems to stay contained within a garden’s cultivated soil if gardeners deadhead the flowers once spent.
Also, despite the “butterfly” name, keep in mind that this shrub is not a “host plant” for butterflies in that it does not support butterfly reproduction and lifecycle. Rather, it provides nectar to adult butterflies; think of nectar as their favorite adult beverage! If you do have a Butterfly Bush, be sure to add native host plants such as milkweed if you want the butterflies to stay. See plants that attract butterflies.
PLANTING
Buddleias need full sun and fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant in spring or fall. See your local frost dates.
Loosen the soil, mix in compost, and dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant container.
When placing the plant in the hole, the top of the rootball should be level with the soil surface
Space plants 5 to 10 feet apart, depending on the variety.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Water freely when in growth and sparingly otherwise. In the summer, water if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Avoid fertilizing butterfly bush; too much fertility promotes leaf growth over flower production.
Remove spent flower spikes to encourage new shoots and flower buds.
In addition, it is important to deadhead the flowers just as they start to wither so that this invasive plant doesn’t spread volunteer seeds. Deadheading of this invasive is now required in many states.
Each spring, apply a thin layer of compost and mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.
In cold, Northern climates, spread mulch up to 6 inches deep around the trunk to nurture it through the winter.
Buddleias are very late to break dormancy, so don’t be in a hurry to assess winter damage.
The bush should bloom abundantly even in its first year. In warmer climates, the bushes will grow into trees and develop rugged trunks that peel; peeling is normal.
In the northern limit of their range, they behave as herbaceous perennials, dying back to the root in cold winters.
Since they bloom on new wood, even if there is no die-back, cut them back to the ground every spring. Yes, hack to the ground!
Even where winters are mild enough for the stems to survive, prune severely to stimulate abundant growth on which flowers are borne.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to capsid bug, caterpillars, weevils, mullein moth, and spider mites.
Fungal leaf spots and die-backs can occur.
Butterfly bushes are one of many deer-resistant plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Zinnia elegans
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: MulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Zinnias are one of the easiest plants to grow, as they grow quickly and bloom heavily. Zinnia flowers make a massive burst of color in your garden, and they attract butterflies.
Zinnias are annuals, so they grow for one season and make great cutting flowers, but do not come back in subsequent years. They have bright, solitary, daisy-like flowerheads on a single, erect stem. The most common zinnia is “dahlia-flowered” and grows up to three feet tall. Other types are “cactus-flowered.”
Use in an annual or mixed border garden. Smaller zinnias are suitable for edging, windowboxes, or other containers. The narrow-leaf zinnia also works well in hanging baskets.
PLANTING
You should really grow zinnia from seed, as they do not like to be transplanted as nursery plants and do not often thrive. From seed, they will grow very quickly in the right conditions.
Do not seed until the last frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Choosing a location that gets full sun is essential. Zinnias can stand a minimum daytime temperature of 60 degrees F, and a range of 74 to 84 degrees F is preferred.
Zinnias are adaptable, but the ideal soil is nice and fertile, humus-rich, and well-drained. Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7.5. If soil is amended with compost, the flowers will grow more quickly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Sow zinnia seeds only ¼-inch deep.
Space plants 4 to 24 inches apart, depending on variety. (Many common varieties are planted 6 inches apart within the row and 2 feet in between rows.) See back of seed package for variety-specific advice.
You’ll see zinnia seedlings in only 4 to 7 days for most varieties.
When seedlings reach three inches tall, thin them so that they’re 6 to 18 inches apart to maximize air circulation.
Sow in succession for a longer flowering display.
CARE
Deadhead zinnia flowers to prolong flowering.
Maintain moderate soil moisture and fertilize lightly.
Zinnias are annuals and will die with the first frost.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bacterial and fungal spots, powdery mildew, and bacterial wilt may affect zinnias. Minimize wetting of foliage to avoid disease.
Caterpillars, mealybugs, and spider mites also cause problems. Avoid spraying and tolerate some leaf damage unless the situation is uncontrolled.
Luckily, zinnias are deer-resistant, so they might help keep nearby flowers from being eaten.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: MulticolorOrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Zinnias are one of the easiest plants to grow, as they grow quickly and bloom heavily. Zinnia flowers make a massive burst of color in your garden, and they attract butterflies.
Zinnias are annuals, so they grow for one season and make great cutting flowers, but do not come back in subsequent years. They have bright, solitary, daisy-like flowerheads on a single, erect stem. The most common zinnia is “dahlia-flowered” and grows up to three feet tall. Other types are “cactus-flowered.”
Use in an annual or mixed border garden. Smaller zinnias are suitable for edging, windowboxes, or other containers. The narrow-leaf zinnia also works well in hanging baskets.
PLANTING
You should really grow zinnia from seed, as they do not like to be transplanted as nursery plants and do not often thrive. From seed, they will grow very quickly in the right conditions.
Do not seed until the last frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Choosing a location that gets full sun is essential. Zinnias can stand a minimum daytime temperature of 60 degrees F, and a range of 74 to 84 degrees F is preferred.
Zinnias are adaptable, but the ideal soil is nice and fertile, humus-rich, and well-drained. Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7.5. If soil is amended with compost, the flowers will grow more quickly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Sow zinnia seeds only ¼-inch deep.
Space plants 4 to 24 inches apart, depending on variety. (Many common varieties are planted 6 inches apart within the row and 2 feet in between rows.) See back of seed package for variety-specific advice.
You’ll see zinnia seedlings in only 4 to 7 days for most varieties.
When seedlings reach three inches tall, thin them so that they’re 6 to 18 inches apart to maximize air circulation.
Sow in succession for a longer flowering display.
CARE
Deadhead zinnia flowers to prolong flowering.
Maintain moderate soil moisture and fertilize lightly.
Zinnias are annuals and will die with the first frost.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bacterial and fungal spots, powdery mildew, and bacterial wilt may affect zinnias. Minimize wetting of foliage to avoid disease.
Caterpillars, mealybugs, and spider mites also cause problems. Avoid spraying and tolerate some leaf damage unless the situation is uncontrolled.
Luckily, zinnias are deer-resistant, so they might help keep nearby flowers from being eaten.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Achillea
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Yarrow is a native plant that’s practically care-free, making it perfect for borders, ground covers, and open meadows.
Sold as a hardy and versatile perennial, yarrow has showy flower heads composed of many tiny, tightly-packed flowers rising above clusters of ferny foliage. The flowers may be yellow, red, pink, or a number of shades in between.
Yarrow is pest-resistant, drought-resistant, attracts butterflies, and is excellent for cutting and drying.
It’s also an aromatic herb which has many healing properties!PLANTING
Use a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil in your garden to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Plant in the spring in well-drained, average to poor soil. Yarrow thrives in hot, dry conditions; they will not tolerate wet soil. If you grow yarrow in rich soil, the plants may require stalking due to overenthusiastic growth.
Space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. They are quick to establish and spread, though some species, like Achillea millefolium, are invasive, so be careful when choosing your plants. Most kinds grow to be about 2 to 4 feet tall.
CARE
Remember to add a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2–inch layer of mulch around your plants each spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, remember to water your plants regularly.
Divide yarrow plants every 3 to 5 years. Lift the clumps of flowers in early spring or fall and remove any dead stems from the center of the clump. You can replant the divisions in well-prepared soil.
If you plant yarrows from tip cuttings, plant them in spring or early summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Powdery mildew
Rust
Stem rot
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Yarrow is a native plant that’s practically care-free, making it perfect for borders, ground covers, and open meadows.
Sold as a hardy and versatile perennial, yarrow has showy flower heads composed of many tiny, tightly-packed flowers rising above clusters of ferny foliage. The flowers may be yellow, red, pink, or a number of shades in between.
Yarrow is pest-resistant, drought-resistant, attracts butterflies, and is excellent for cutting and drying.
It’s also an aromatic herb which has many healing properties!PLANTING
Use a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil in your garden to about 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Plant in the spring in well-drained, average to poor soil. Yarrow thrives in hot, dry conditions; they will not tolerate wet soil. If you grow yarrow in rich soil, the plants may require stalking due to overenthusiastic growth.
Space the plants 1 to 2 feet apart. They are quick to establish and spread, though some species, like Achillea millefolium, are invasive, so be careful when choosing your plants. Most kinds grow to be about 2 to 4 feet tall.
CARE
Remember to add a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2–inch layer of mulch around your plants each spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, remember to water your plants regularly.
Divide yarrow plants every 3 to 5 years. Lift the clumps of flowers in early spring or fall and remove any dead stems from the center of the clump. You can replant the divisions in well-prepared soil.
If you plant yarrows from tip cuttings, plant them in spring or early summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Powdery mildew
Rust
Stem rot
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Veronica
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
This attractive plant grows in clusters from 1 to 3 feet tall, and blooms from spring to autumn.
There is also a bushy ground cover variety (Veronica prostrata), which features dense clusters of flowers and grows to only about 10 inches tall.
PLANTING
Grow in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun.
Plant in the spring. (Veronica can be sowed by seed in containers in a cold frame in autumn, but most people start this perennial as a transplant from the nursery.)
Loosen the soil and mix in compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant’s container.
When placing the plant in the hole, ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Water in the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Stake tall varieties.
Keep covered with a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture.
Deadhead to extend bloom time.
After the first killing frost, cut back stems to an inch or two above the soil line.
Divide perennials in autumn or spring every few years.
PESTS/DISEASES
Scale insects
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf smut
Root rot
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
This attractive plant grows in clusters from 1 to 3 feet tall, and blooms from spring to autumn.
There is also a bushy ground cover variety (Veronica prostrata), which features dense clusters of flowers and grows to only about 10 inches tall.
PLANTING
Grow in moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun.
Plant in the spring. (Veronica can be sowed by seed in containers in a cold frame in autumn, but most people start this perennial as a transplant from the nursery.)
Loosen the soil and mix in compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant’s container.
When placing the plant in the hole, ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
Water in the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Stake tall varieties.
Keep covered with a thin layer of compost, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture.
Deadhead to extend bloom time.
After the first killing frost, cut back stems to an inch or two above the soil line.
Divide perennials in autumn or spring every few years.
PESTS/DISEASES
Scale insects
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Rust
Leaf smut
Root rot
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