文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are remarkably durable and low in maintenance. The succulents need little more than sun, well drained soil and rare moisture. The pests and problems common to the plant group are minimal and usually easy to surmount. Cactus problems may range from sucking pests, like whitefly, to common rots from bacteria or fungal disease. One of the telltale signs of a problem is a soft, mushy cactus.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are one of my favorite types of plants to grow inside all year and outside in summer. Unfortunately, the ambient air tends to stay moist during most seasons, a condition which makes cacti unhappy. Cactus potting soil can enhance drainage, increase evaporation and provide the dry conditions that cacti favor. What is cactus mix? This medium promotes optimum health for your cactus and mimics the natural gritty, arid and low nutrient soils they grow in naturally. You can purchase the mixture or learn how to make cactus soil yourself.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
When you think cactus, you generally think arid, desert plant. This is not always the case, as cacti range from many different environments. While it is true the plants in this group usually prefer soil on the dry side, they still require moisture, especially during the growing season. How often do you need to water a cactus plant? There is more to how to water a cactus than the timing. You also need the correct soil porosity, container drainage, site conditions and time of year.
How Often Do You Need to Water Cactus?
Cactus plants are actually quite juicy. Think of an aloe when you cut it open and the mucilaginous goo that is inside the leaves. Cactus plants actually hoard moisture in their plant cells so they have some water during extremely dry, drought-like conditions. They are remarkably tolerant to water neglect but certain signs in the leaves, pads or stems will indicate that the plant is becoming stressed due to a lack in moisture. Recognizing these signs, along with some education on your plant’s native region and climate, can help indicate the best time for watering cactus plants.
There are many factors influencing the timing of watering cactus plants. Are the plants in ground or in containers? What is the lighting exposure, air temperature, soil type, size of plant, wind or draft exposure and time of year? No matter the time of year, one constant among any type of cactus is its inability to tolerate standing water. To this end, soil type is very important. Loose, well-draining soil is essential to cactus health. If the soil is porous enough, occasionally overwatering is not much of an issue, as excess will easily drain away. Heavy compact, clay soils or those with heavy amounts of organic material tend to capture water and can cause rot in cactus roots and lower stems. Plants in full sun tend to dry out more than those in lower light conditions, as do windy or drafty sites.
Cactus Plant Watering
Cactus plants tend to do the majority of their growth in the warmer seasons. This is when they need supplemental moisture to fuel that growth. Spring and summer plants need to be irrigated enough to avoid wrinkled leaves, pads and stems and promote new cell production, flowering and fruiting if applicable. In late fall and winter, plants are in their resting state and need just enough water to get them through the season. During this period, potting soil or in-ground soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. However, plants located just by the hot, dry air of a furnace or in full sun will dry more quickly than those in other locations and may require a bit more moisture to withstand those drying conditions. In spring and summer, plants need more moisture and average cactus plant watering should take place once per week or more frequently. This is why well-draining soil is important because any extra moisture can move away from sensitive roots.
How to Water a Cactus
There are several schools of thought on how to water these plants, but one fact is clear. Don’t mist desert cactus. They are not native to regions where surface moisture and humidity is prevalent. Instead, they reach deep into soil to harvest moisture left over from the rainy season. Jungle cacti are a bit different and thrive with some misting. An example of this type of cactus is the Christmas cactus. In general, most cultivated cacti will be desert denizens, so watering overhead should be avoided. Potted plants can be set in a saucer of water to intake moisture through the roots. Remove the plant from the saucer after the soil is saturated halfway up. Another method of cactus plant watering is to simply apply it to the surface of the soil. In this case, several factors influence the amount of water such as heat, direct light and planting situation. In general, a slow, deep watering is sufficient once per week. This may translate to soaking a container until moisture runs out the drainage holes or using a garden hose set low to steadily drip water to the root zone of the plant for several hours. Just remember, be sensible when watering cactus plants and find out what type you have and from whence they hail. This can make decisions on plant irrigation much easier.
How Often Do You Need to Water Cactus?
Cactus plants are actually quite juicy. Think of an aloe when you cut it open and the mucilaginous goo that is inside the leaves. Cactus plants actually hoard moisture in their plant cells so they have some water during extremely dry, drought-like conditions. They are remarkably tolerant to water neglect but certain signs in the leaves, pads or stems will indicate that the plant is becoming stressed due to a lack in moisture. Recognizing these signs, along with some education on your plant’s native region and climate, can help indicate the best time for watering cactus plants.
There are many factors influencing the timing of watering cactus plants. Are the plants in ground or in containers? What is the lighting exposure, air temperature, soil type, size of plant, wind or draft exposure and time of year? No matter the time of year, one constant among any type of cactus is its inability to tolerate standing water. To this end, soil type is very important. Loose, well-draining soil is essential to cactus health. If the soil is porous enough, occasionally overwatering is not much of an issue, as excess will easily drain away. Heavy compact, clay soils or those with heavy amounts of organic material tend to capture water and can cause rot in cactus roots and lower stems. Plants in full sun tend to dry out more than those in lower light conditions, as do windy or drafty sites.
Cactus Plant Watering
Cactus plants tend to do the majority of their growth in the warmer seasons. This is when they need supplemental moisture to fuel that growth. Spring and summer plants need to be irrigated enough to avoid wrinkled leaves, pads and stems and promote new cell production, flowering and fruiting if applicable. In late fall and winter, plants are in their resting state and need just enough water to get them through the season. During this period, potting soil or in-ground soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. However, plants located just by the hot, dry air of a furnace or in full sun will dry more quickly than those in other locations and may require a bit more moisture to withstand those drying conditions. In spring and summer, plants need more moisture and average cactus plant watering should take place once per week or more frequently. This is why well-draining soil is important because any extra moisture can move away from sensitive roots.
How to Water a Cactus
There are several schools of thought on how to water these plants, but one fact is clear. Don’t mist desert cactus. They are not native to regions where surface moisture and humidity is prevalent. Instead, they reach deep into soil to harvest moisture left over from the rainy season. Jungle cacti are a bit different and thrive with some misting. An example of this type of cactus is the Christmas cactus. In general, most cultivated cacti will be desert denizens, so watering overhead should be avoided. Potted plants can be set in a saucer of water to intake moisture through the roots. Remove the plant from the saucer after the soil is saturated halfway up. Another method of cactus plant watering is to simply apply it to the surface of the soil. In this case, several factors influence the amount of water such as heat, direct light and planting situation. In general, a slow, deep watering is sufficient once per week. This may translate to soaking a container until moisture runs out the drainage holes or using a garden hose set low to steadily drip water to the root zone of the plant for several hours. Just remember, be sensible when watering cactus plants and find out what type you have and from whence they hail. This can make decisions on plant irrigation much easier.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
There are many “footed” ferns which produce fuzzy rhizomes that grow outside the pot. These are generally grown as indoor plants. Rabbit’s foot fern doesn’t mind being pot bound but you should give it fresh soil every couple years. Repotting can be a challenge with all the little feet hanging around the original pot so read here for a step-by-step tutorial on how to repot a rabbit’s foot fern. Davallia fejeensis is the botanical name of the rabbit’s foot fern (Humata tyermanii or white paw fern, is a similar plant). These charming plants produce soft silvery growth off the base of the plant that stream down the outside of the pot. The growths are actually above ground rhizomes and can be used to start entirely new ferns. In mature plants, these rhizomes will literally coat the outside of a container and cascade down over a hanging pot. Don’t worry if you break one off during rabbit’s foot fern repotting, as you can simply root it for another of these wonderful plants.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The rabbit’s foot fern plant gets its name from the furry rhizomes that grow on top of the soil and resemble a rabbit’s foot. The rhizomes often grow over the side of the pot, adding an extra dimension to the plant. Functional as well as decorative, the rhizomes absorb moisture and nutrients as they crawl across the moist soil. Growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant in a hanging basket shows off the furry rhizomes to their best advantage. The rhizomes can grow quite long and over time they take on a spider-like appearance. Never bury the rhizomes under the soil however, as this encourages rot.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Care
As with any houseplant, care of rabbit’s foot fern includes providing adequate light, proper moisture and temperature, and regular fertilization. Even with the best of care, you may occasionally lose some of the older fronds. This is normal and not an indication that you have done anything wrong. Rabbit’s foot ferns like bright but indirect sunlight, such as that found near a window with an eastern exposure. During the day they like temperatures between 70 and 75 F. (21-24 C.), and slightly cooler temperatures at night. Water the plants lightly but often to keep the surface of the soil lightly moist. Daily misting helps keep the surface rhizomes from drying out. Every two weeks, your rabbit’s foot fern care should also include watering the plant with a liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength. Rabbit’s foot ferns need repotting about every two years, and the best time to repot is in spring. Mix regular potting soil half-and-half with sand to create an ideal medium for rabbit’s foot ferns. This is an excellent time to divide large plants.
Special Needs for Rabbit’s Foot Fern Plant
Known botanically as Davallia fejeensis ferns, rabbit’s foot ferns have light, airy foliage compared to their cousins, the deer’s foot ferns (D. canariensis) and the squirrel’s foot ferns (D. trichomanoides). Light foliage doesn’t hold moisture as well as thick foliage, so the plants need frequent misting and an occasional shower to keep them from drying out.
A rabbit’s foot fern plant is very sensitive to chemicals. Avoid using leaf shine products and insecticides on the plant. A gentle shower keeps the fronds looking clean and fresh and also removes many of the insects that feed on the foliage. Tobacco smoke, scented candles and most forms of air pollution also harm the plant.
Though it may need a little more maintenance than other plants in the home, growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant is a great way to enjoy this unusual, furry-footed oddity.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Care
As with any houseplant, care of rabbit’s foot fern includes providing adequate light, proper moisture and temperature, and regular fertilization. Even with the best of care, you may occasionally lose some of the older fronds. This is normal and not an indication that you have done anything wrong. Rabbit’s foot ferns like bright but indirect sunlight, such as that found near a window with an eastern exposure. During the day they like temperatures between 70 and 75 F. (21-24 C.), and slightly cooler temperatures at night. Water the plants lightly but often to keep the surface of the soil lightly moist. Daily misting helps keep the surface rhizomes from drying out. Every two weeks, your rabbit’s foot fern care should also include watering the plant with a liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength. Rabbit’s foot ferns need repotting about every two years, and the best time to repot is in spring. Mix regular potting soil half-and-half with sand to create an ideal medium for rabbit’s foot ferns. This is an excellent time to divide large plants.
Special Needs for Rabbit’s Foot Fern Plant
Known botanically as Davallia fejeensis ferns, rabbit’s foot ferns have light, airy foliage compared to their cousins, the deer’s foot ferns (D. canariensis) and the squirrel’s foot ferns (D. trichomanoides). Light foliage doesn’t hold moisture as well as thick foliage, so the plants need frequent misting and an occasional shower to keep them from drying out.
A rabbit’s foot fern plant is very sensitive to chemicals. Avoid using leaf shine products and insecticides on the plant. A gentle shower keeps the fronds looking clean and fresh and also removes many of the insects that feed on the foliage. Tobacco smoke, scented candles and most forms of air pollution also harm the plant.
Though it may need a little more maintenance than other plants in the home, growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant is a great way to enjoy this unusual, furry-footed oddity.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Nematodes are tiny, microscopic roundworms that live in the soil and feed on plants. While some are nitrogen fixing and actually beneficial, others can cause serious damage and open up pathways in plants for harmful bacteria and disease. Root knot nematodes are very common among most cactus species. Keep reading to learn more about how to detect cactus root nematodes and the best methods for managing nematodes in cactus roots.
Cactus Root Knot Nematodes
Nematodes feed on plant roots by digging into the root’s cell walls with a sharp, pointed feeding tool called a sytlet. The puncture wound created by the stylet is usually more of a problem than the presence of the nematode itself, because it creates an opening that allows bacteria and fungi to enter easily into the plant, infecting it from within. Root knot nematodes are a specific kind of nematodes that feed on roots and usually create telltale fleshy masses, or “galls” on the roots. These galls make it difficult for the cactus to draw up water and nutrients properly. Since the galls form underground, it’s necessary to look for aboveground signs that your cactus is infected. The lack of adequate water and nutrients can make for a plant that’s yellowed, shriveled and stunted looking.
Treating Nematodes of Cactus
The best method for root knot nematode control is prevention. If you’re planting your cacti in containers, always use new, sterile potting medium and clean any used containers thoroughly. If cactus root knot nematodes are already in your soil, it’s possible to treat with nematicides. These chemicals usually come in either granular or liquid form, and can be applied in a few different ways. Always follow the application instructions on the label exactly. It’s easier on the plant to treat soil before planting, but you can treat the soil around your established cactus this way as well.
Cactus Root Knot Nematodes
Nematodes feed on plant roots by digging into the root’s cell walls with a sharp, pointed feeding tool called a sytlet. The puncture wound created by the stylet is usually more of a problem than the presence of the nematode itself, because it creates an opening that allows bacteria and fungi to enter easily into the plant, infecting it from within. Root knot nematodes are a specific kind of nematodes that feed on roots and usually create telltale fleshy masses, or “galls” on the roots. These galls make it difficult for the cactus to draw up water and nutrients properly. Since the galls form underground, it’s necessary to look for aboveground signs that your cactus is infected. The lack of adequate water and nutrients can make for a plant that’s yellowed, shriveled and stunted looking.
Treating Nematodes of Cactus
The best method for root knot nematode control is prevention. If you’re planting your cacti in containers, always use new, sterile potting medium and clean any used containers thoroughly. If cactus root knot nematodes are already in your soil, it’s possible to treat with nematicides. These chemicals usually come in either granular or liquid form, and can be applied in a few different ways. Always follow the application instructions on the label exactly. It’s easier on the plant to treat soil before planting, but you can treat the soil around your established cactus this way as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Unlike typical desert cacti, Christmas cactus is native to the tropical rain forest. Although the climate is damp for much of the year, the roots dry quickly because the plants grow not in soil, but in decayed leaves in the branches of trees. Christmas cactus problems are usually caused by improper watering or poor drainage.
Christmas Cactus Fungal Issues
Rots, including basal stem rot and root rot, are the most common problems affecting Christmas cactus. Stem rot – Basal stem rot, which generally develops in cool, damp soil, is easily recognized by the formation of a brown, water-soaked spot at the base of the stem. The lesions eventually travel up the stem of the plant. Unfortunately, basal stem rot is usually deadly because treatment involves cutting the diseased area from the base of the plant, which removes the supportive structure. The best recourse is to start a new plant with a healthy leaf. Root rot – Similarly, plants with root rot are difficult to save. The disease, which causes the plants to wilt and eventually die, is identified by a wilted appearance and soggy, black or reddish brown roots. You may be able to save the plant if you catch the disease early. Remove the cactus from its pot. Rinse the roots to remove the fungus and trim rotten areas. Repot the plant in a pot filled with a potting mix formulated for cacti and succulents. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Fungicides are often ineffective because specific pathogens are difficult to identify, and each pathogen requires a different fungicide. To prevent rot, water the plant thoroughly, but only when the potting soil feels slightly dry. Let the pot drain and don’t allow the plant to stand in water. Water sparingly during the winter, but never let the potting mix become bone dry.
Other Diseases of Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus diseases also include botrytis blight and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Botrytis blight – Suspect botrytis blight, also known as grey mold, if the blooms or stem are covered with silvery gray fungus. If you catch the disease early, removal of infected plant parts may save the plant. Improve ventilation and reduce humidity to prevent future outbreaks. Necrotic spot virus – Plants with impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) display spotted, yellow or wilted leaves and stems. Use appropriate insect control, as the disease is usually transmitted by thrips. You may be able to save diseased plants by moving them into a clean container filled with fresh, pathogen-free potting mix.
Christmas Cactus Fungal Issues
Rots, including basal stem rot and root rot, are the most common problems affecting Christmas cactus. Stem rot – Basal stem rot, which generally develops in cool, damp soil, is easily recognized by the formation of a brown, water-soaked spot at the base of the stem. The lesions eventually travel up the stem of the plant. Unfortunately, basal stem rot is usually deadly because treatment involves cutting the diseased area from the base of the plant, which removes the supportive structure. The best recourse is to start a new plant with a healthy leaf. Root rot – Similarly, plants with root rot are difficult to save. The disease, which causes the plants to wilt and eventually die, is identified by a wilted appearance and soggy, black or reddish brown roots. You may be able to save the plant if you catch the disease early. Remove the cactus from its pot. Rinse the roots to remove the fungus and trim rotten areas. Repot the plant in a pot filled with a potting mix formulated for cacti and succulents. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Fungicides are often ineffective because specific pathogens are difficult to identify, and each pathogen requires a different fungicide. To prevent rot, water the plant thoroughly, but only when the potting soil feels slightly dry. Let the pot drain and don’t allow the plant to stand in water. Water sparingly during the winter, but never let the potting mix become bone dry.
Other Diseases of Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus diseases also include botrytis blight and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Botrytis blight – Suspect botrytis blight, also known as grey mold, if the blooms or stem are covered with silvery gray fungus. If you catch the disease early, removal of infected plant parts may save the plant. Improve ventilation and reduce humidity to prevent future outbreaks. Necrotic spot virus – Plants with impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) display spotted, yellow or wilted leaves and stems. Use appropriate insect control, as the disease is usually transmitted by thrips. You may be able to save diseased plants by moving them into a clean container filled with fresh, pathogen-free potting mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Burro’s tail cactus (Sedum morganianum) is not technically a cactus but a succulent. Although all cacti are succulents, not all succulents are cactus. Both do have similar requirements such as gritty soil, good drainage, sunshine and protection from extreme cold temperatures. Growing burro’s tail provides fascinating texture as a graceful houseplant or lush green exterior plant in many landscape situations.
Burro’s Tail Information
Burro’s tail is a heat and drought tolerant plant well suited for warm to temperate regions. The thick stems appear woven or plaited with leaves. The succulent is green to gray green or even blue green and may have a slight chalky look. Try a burro’s tail houseplant or use it on the patio or full sun garden bed.
Burro’s Tail Houseplant
The misnamed burro’s tail cactus produces long, sweeping stems that are arrayed with thick, fleshy green leaves. The succulent thrives indoors in a well-drained container where bright sunlight bathes the plant. A burro’s tail houseplant will grow equally well in a mixed succulent container or as a hanging specimen. Slowly introduce the plant to full sun once purchased to allow it to acclimate first, as light conditions vary from nursery to nursery, etc. Provide even moisture and fertilize with cactus food during the growing season. Divide the plant when it gets too large for a container and transplant it every couple of years to provide it with fresh nutrient-rich soil. Burro’s tail care is easy and makes it an excellent plant for the novice gardener.
Burro’s Tail Propagation
Burro’s tail features long stems laden with small, rounded leaves. The leaves fall off at the slightest touch and will litter the ground after transplanting or repotting. Gather the leaves and insert them partway into a moist soilless medium. Burro’s tail plants can tolerate periods of drought, but the new potential plants need to be kept lightly moist until they root and establish. Propagating burro’s tail will ensure multiple enough of this versatile plant to play with and apply to many different indoor or outdoor landscaping situations. Propagating will also make numerous starts to share with friends and family or spread around the garden. Growing Burro’s Tail Outdoors One of the most fun plants around, this succulent is simple to grow. Outdoor plants may need winter protection with a light layer of mulch to protect them from cold. Plant the burro’s tail in full sun where there is shelter from drying and damaging winds.
Growing Burro’s Tail Outdoors
One of the most fun plants around, this succulent is simple to grow. Outdoor plants may need winter protection with a light layer of mulch to protect them from cold. Plant the burro’s tail in full sun where there is shelter from drying and damaging winds.
Burro’s Tail Care and Uses
The frequent traveler or green thumb-challenged garden will find burro’s tail care ideal. Water carefully when growing burro’s tail. Keep the plant moderately and evenly moist. Excess water can cause the stems to rot and even kill the succulent. Burro’s tail works well in a hanging basket and decorates a mixed cactus and succulent container. It will flourish in rockery cracks and makes a unique ground cover. Try planting the bushy stems in a bed with mixed seasonal color or bright flowering perennials. It is a perfect choice for large leaved plants and useful as part of a xeriscape garden.
Burro’s Tail Information
Burro’s tail is a heat and drought tolerant plant well suited for warm to temperate regions. The thick stems appear woven or plaited with leaves. The succulent is green to gray green or even blue green and may have a slight chalky look. Try a burro’s tail houseplant or use it on the patio or full sun garden bed.
Burro’s Tail Houseplant
The misnamed burro’s tail cactus produces long, sweeping stems that are arrayed with thick, fleshy green leaves. The succulent thrives indoors in a well-drained container where bright sunlight bathes the plant. A burro’s tail houseplant will grow equally well in a mixed succulent container or as a hanging specimen. Slowly introduce the plant to full sun once purchased to allow it to acclimate first, as light conditions vary from nursery to nursery, etc. Provide even moisture and fertilize with cactus food during the growing season. Divide the plant when it gets too large for a container and transplant it every couple of years to provide it with fresh nutrient-rich soil. Burro’s tail care is easy and makes it an excellent plant for the novice gardener.
Burro’s Tail Propagation
Burro’s tail features long stems laden with small, rounded leaves. The leaves fall off at the slightest touch and will litter the ground after transplanting or repotting. Gather the leaves and insert them partway into a moist soilless medium. Burro’s tail plants can tolerate periods of drought, but the new potential plants need to be kept lightly moist until they root and establish. Propagating burro’s tail will ensure multiple enough of this versatile plant to play with and apply to many different indoor or outdoor landscaping situations. Propagating will also make numerous starts to share with friends and family or spread around the garden. Growing Burro’s Tail Outdoors One of the most fun plants around, this succulent is simple to grow. Outdoor plants may need winter protection with a light layer of mulch to protect them from cold. Plant the burro’s tail in full sun where there is shelter from drying and damaging winds.
Growing Burro’s Tail Outdoors
One of the most fun plants around, this succulent is simple to grow. Outdoor plants may need winter protection with a light layer of mulch to protect them from cold. Plant the burro’s tail in full sun where there is shelter from drying and damaging winds.
Burro’s Tail Care and Uses
The frequent traveler or green thumb-challenged garden will find burro’s tail care ideal. Water carefully when growing burro’s tail. Keep the plant moderately and evenly moist. Excess water can cause the stems to rot and even kill the succulent. Burro’s tail works well in a hanging basket and decorates a mixed cactus and succulent container. It will flourish in rockery cracks and makes a unique ground cover. Try planting the bushy stems in a bed with mixed seasonal color or bright flowering perennials. It is a perfect choice for large leaved plants and useful as part of a xeriscape garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
One of the trickier diseases of cacti is pythium rot. It most commonly affects barrel cactus and can be difficult to detect before it is too late to save the cactus. Pythium rot symptoms start at the soil level and generally begin in roots. This makes it one of the hardest diseases of barrel cactus to diagnose, as most of the damage is under ground. To add insult to injury, the soil is the host of the pathogen. If soil is infected, the plant will certainly become ill. There are no effective methods of control of pythium rot but some prevention can be undertaken.
What is Pythium Rot in Barrel Cactus?
Pythium is an internal soft rot that affects cactus and many other types of plants. In barrel cactus, it occurs when conditions are moist, when the plant is too deep in soil and when the cactus sustains injury. For this reason, clean, sterile soil and proper planting methods must be observed to prevent the pathogen from invading your cactus.
Once the plant has the disease, there is no effective pythium root rot treatment. The cactus is best removed and destroyed. There are, however, preventative treatments for susceptible species. The disease stems from a soil borne fungus-like organism. Once the roots are contaminated, the disease works its way up the cambium of the cactus and eventually will infect the entire plant. Once this happens, there is nothing to be done and the plant must be discarded. There are several common species of Pythium, each with favorite plant targets. While the disease is rarely found in commercial soil, it is easy to introduce through contaminated tools, old dirty pots and from animal activities. Even the use of dirty garden gloves can pass the pathogen into fresh, sterile soil.
Pythium Rot Symptoms
Pythium disease is almost impossible to detect until it is too late. This is because it starts in soil at the plant’s roots. If you were to remove the plant, you could see that roots are mushy, discolored and rotten. Pythium rot in barrel cactus will also produce brown lesions on the roots. Once this occurs, the plant cannot uptake adequate nutrition and the whole core begins to die. The disease progresses upward, developing soft spots and decay as the whole stem turns yellow. If you watch the base of the plant for yellowing at the soil line, you might still be able to save it. Once the stem becomes squishy, however, the cactus is a lost cause. Pythium rot in barrel cactus is usually fatal.
Pythium Root Rot Treatment
Of all the diseases of barrel cactus, this is a particularly insidious variety. Because there are no adequate methods of control of pythium rot, the best defense is prevention. Avoid burying the plant in soil to the fleshy part of the stem. If the plant gets wounded at the soil line, keep water off the area and let it callus over. Preventative treatments can be applied by professionals to valuable specimens. These include mefanoxam and phosphytl-Al. Such treatments can be costly and are spotty in their effectiveness. Plants in containers should have only sterile soil and all tools need to be cleaned before using them with the cactus. With a little care and some luck, you can prevent a barrel cactus from ever getting infected and possibly losing this beautiful plant.
What is Pythium Rot in Barrel Cactus?
Pythium is an internal soft rot that affects cactus and many other types of plants. In barrel cactus, it occurs when conditions are moist, when the plant is too deep in soil and when the cactus sustains injury. For this reason, clean, sterile soil and proper planting methods must be observed to prevent the pathogen from invading your cactus.
Once the plant has the disease, there is no effective pythium root rot treatment. The cactus is best removed and destroyed. There are, however, preventative treatments for susceptible species. The disease stems from a soil borne fungus-like organism. Once the roots are contaminated, the disease works its way up the cambium of the cactus and eventually will infect the entire plant. Once this happens, there is nothing to be done and the plant must be discarded. There are several common species of Pythium, each with favorite plant targets. While the disease is rarely found in commercial soil, it is easy to introduce through contaminated tools, old dirty pots and from animal activities. Even the use of dirty garden gloves can pass the pathogen into fresh, sterile soil.
Pythium Rot Symptoms
Pythium disease is almost impossible to detect until it is too late. This is because it starts in soil at the plant’s roots. If you were to remove the plant, you could see that roots are mushy, discolored and rotten. Pythium rot in barrel cactus will also produce brown lesions on the roots. Once this occurs, the plant cannot uptake adequate nutrition and the whole core begins to die. The disease progresses upward, developing soft spots and decay as the whole stem turns yellow. If you watch the base of the plant for yellowing at the soil line, you might still be able to save it. Once the stem becomes squishy, however, the cactus is a lost cause. Pythium rot in barrel cactus is usually fatal.
Pythium Root Rot Treatment
Of all the diseases of barrel cactus, this is a particularly insidious variety. Because there are no adequate methods of control of pythium rot, the best defense is prevention. Avoid burying the plant in soil to the fleshy part of the stem. If the plant gets wounded at the soil line, keep water off the area and let it callus over. Preventative treatments can be applied by professionals to valuable specimens. These include mefanoxam and phosphytl-Al. Such treatments can be costly and are spotty in their effectiveness. Plants in containers should have only sterile soil and all tools need to be cleaned before using them with the cactus. With a little care and some luck, you can prevent a barrel cactus from ever getting infected and possibly losing this beautiful plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Can agave grow in pots? You bet! With so many varieties of agave available, container grown agave plants are an excellent choice for the gardener with limited space, less than perfect soil conditions, and a lack of abundant sunlight. Since most agaves thrive year round in warmer climates, container plants are also a wonderful choice for gardeners living in climates that experience colder temperatures.Potted agave also provide the flexibility of being mobile. Growing agave plants in pots allows you to move the containers to the location that provides the light, temperature and weather conditions that will help your agave thrive.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
With their showy flowers and low-maintenance needs, bottlebrush trees (Callistemon spp.) are often chosen in warm growing zones for hedges or statement plants. They grow best in full sun and soil with low alkalinity, but other than that aren't very picky about where you plant them.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Some cockscomb flowers (Celosia argentea var. cristata) are feathery plumes, some are spikes and some look like wrinkled brains or tangled yarn, but all thrive in well-drained, moist soil in full sun. The four cockscomb groups are Plumosa, Spicata, Cristata and Childsii. Cockscombs usually grow as annual plants, but in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12 they're short-lived perennials. Garden centers and nurseries sell cockscombs in plant cell packs in spring.
Hardening Off
Cockscomb flowers need to adjust outdoor conditions, or harden off, before they're planted in the garden. If you bought your cockscombs from a supplier or grew them yourself from seed indoors, your plants will be too tender to transplant right away. Leaving them outdoors for increasing amounts of time toughens the leaves and stems and reduces transplantation stress. After the final frost date has passed, place the cockscombs outside in a sheltered spot in the morning and bring them indoors at night for one week. Leave them outdoors overnight for the following week, and plant them in your garden in the third week. Plants usually require more water when they go outside.
Planting Out
Warm, cloudy, still days are best for planting cockscomb flowers. Plant tall varieties in locations sheltered from strong winds. If the soil in the planting site is dry and thin, dig 3 inches of garden compost or well-rotted manure into the top 6 inches of soil with a garden fork. Gently ease the cockscombs out of their containers by pushing on the bases or tapping the packs on the ground and sliding the plants out. Don't pull cockscombs out by their stems because this can damage them. Plant the cockscombs at the same level in the ground they were growing in their containers, spaced 10 to 12 inches apart or according to the instructions on the label or seed packet. Water the plants thoroughly. Cockscombs look best planted in large groups.
Caring for Cockscombs
With regular watering and feeding, cockscomb flowers are usually trouble free. Spread a 2-inch layer of compost, leaf mold or another fine organic mulch over the cockscomb bed, avoiding plant stems, to help conserve moisture in the soil. Water cockscombs whenever the soil surface is dry, and feed them with a water-soluble 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Apply 1/2 gallon of fertilizer solution to every 5 square feet of garden bed every two weeks, or according to the directions on the product label. Support tall cockscombs with stakes. Push 3-foot bamboo canes into the soil behind the plants, and tie the main stems to the canes with garden twine. You can also use specialized plant supports from your local garden center. Cockscombs rarely suffer from serious pests or diseases.
Buying Cockscombs
Cockscombs with crowded roots often grow and flower poorly. Check the bases of cockscomb packs before you buy, and don't buy plants that have roots growing through the drainage holes. Also avoid plants that are already flowering because this may be due to crowding or other stresses. Buy plants with healthy, completely green leaves, growing in moist potting soil. Buy plants two or three weeks before the final frost date and no earlier, or the plants will become crowded in their packs before it's safe to plant them outside. If you've already bought plants with crowded roots, cut 1/4 inch vertically into the root ball bases when planting them to encourage the plants to form new roots. Sterilize your pruning shears by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after using them.
Hardening Off
Cockscomb flowers need to adjust outdoor conditions, or harden off, before they're planted in the garden. If you bought your cockscombs from a supplier or grew them yourself from seed indoors, your plants will be too tender to transplant right away. Leaving them outdoors for increasing amounts of time toughens the leaves and stems and reduces transplantation stress. After the final frost date has passed, place the cockscombs outside in a sheltered spot in the morning and bring them indoors at night for one week. Leave them outdoors overnight for the following week, and plant them in your garden in the third week. Plants usually require more water when they go outside.
Planting Out
Warm, cloudy, still days are best for planting cockscomb flowers. Plant tall varieties in locations sheltered from strong winds. If the soil in the planting site is dry and thin, dig 3 inches of garden compost or well-rotted manure into the top 6 inches of soil with a garden fork. Gently ease the cockscombs out of their containers by pushing on the bases or tapping the packs on the ground and sliding the plants out. Don't pull cockscombs out by their stems because this can damage them. Plant the cockscombs at the same level in the ground they were growing in their containers, spaced 10 to 12 inches apart or according to the instructions on the label or seed packet. Water the plants thoroughly. Cockscombs look best planted in large groups.
Caring for Cockscombs
With regular watering and feeding, cockscomb flowers are usually trouble free. Spread a 2-inch layer of compost, leaf mold or another fine organic mulch over the cockscomb bed, avoiding plant stems, to help conserve moisture in the soil. Water cockscombs whenever the soil surface is dry, and feed them with a water-soluble 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Apply 1/2 gallon of fertilizer solution to every 5 square feet of garden bed every two weeks, or according to the directions on the product label. Support tall cockscombs with stakes. Push 3-foot bamboo canes into the soil behind the plants, and tie the main stems to the canes with garden twine. You can also use specialized plant supports from your local garden center. Cockscombs rarely suffer from serious pests or diseases.
Buying Cockscombs
Cockscombs with crowded roots often grow and flower poorly. Check the bases of cockscomb packs before you buy, and don't buy plants that have roots growing through the drainage holes. Also avoid plants that are already flowering because this may be due to crowding or other stresses. Buy plants with healthy, completely green leaves, growing in moist potting soil. Buy plants two or three weeks before the final frost date and no earlier, or the plants will become crowded in their packs before it's safe to plant them outside. If you've already bought plants with crowded roots, cut 1/4 inch vertically into the root ball bases when planting them to encourage the plants to form new roots. Sterilize your pruning shears by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after using them.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Wave petunias are popular for their full spreading habit and ample bloom counts. They can tolerate heat and long periods between watering, but only under optimal conditions. If they're packed in close on soil that doesn't hold any water during hot, windy, dry months while insects are sucking every drop from their leaves, well, you'll need to give them some extra attention. Look at the specifics of the environment they're growing in before deciding you have a black thumb.
Spacing
Petunias can handle a crowd, but only if there is ample soil and a good watering schedule. If petunias are packed into a garden or, worse, packed into a planter, they will need frequent, deep watering to compete. Wave petunias spread, so plant them at least 1 1/2 feet from other plants. The roots spread, too. The roots need this space for root surface area to absorb more water.
Soil
Sandy soils drain and transpire quickly. This means water will get too low in the ground or rise to the surface and evaporate before the thirsty petunias can get to it. Loamy soils are better, and clay soils hold water best. A soil with a balance of all of these is ideal, since sand will keep the ground from getting soggy and hard-packed, loam will provide nutrients, and clay will hold water. Beware of super-light potting soil: it loses water very quickly.
Disease and Insect Issues
Look for other signs of problems with your wave petunias other than dry leaves and blooms. Are there spots or insects on the plant? Are some areas yellowing, turning brown or discoloring faster than others? If you can't identify the culprit, take one of your problem plants to a garden center. Be sure to take the entire plant, including the roots and a 3-inch by 3-inch section of the soil the roots are growing in. Many diseases or insect problems can be spotted easily by professionals who're used to seeing them.
Watering Habits
Often it's the simplest problem that's overlooked. It may seem like you're watering your petunias all the time, but check the top 2 to 3 inches of soil. If it's dry, then the petunias need a good, deep watering. You may have to boost your watering regime. Watch out for windy days or low humidity. Weather like this can suck the moisture out of the plants much more quickly, and you'll have to water sooner than you usually do.
Considerations
Invest in good, water-retaining soil before planting. If your petunias are already in the ground, mulch about 2 inches around the plants and water it in well. Dry mulch pulls moisture from the soil, too. Choose planting containers that are deep and wide to accommodate plenty of moisture-storing soil, and they should be made from a material such as durable plastic or ceramic that will not transpire easily. Don't overfertilize your petunias. The more you fertilize, the more they'll grow, and the more water those thirsty plants will need.
Spacing
Petunias can handle a crowd, but only if there is ample soil and a good watering schedule. If petunias are packed into a garden or, worse, packed into a planter, they will need frequent, deep watering to compete. Wave petunias spread, so plant them at least 1 1/2 feet from other plants. The roots spread, too. The roots need this space for root surface area to absorb more water.
Soil
Sandy soils drain and transpire quickly. This means water will get too low in the ground or rise to the surface and evaporate before the thirsty petunias can get to it. Loamy soils are better, and clay soils hold water best. A soil with a balance of all of these is ideal, since sand will keep the ground from getting soggy and hard-packed, loam will provide nutrients, and clay will hold water. Beware of super-light potting soil: it loses water very quickly.
Disease and Insect Issues
Look for other signs of problems with your wave petunias other than dry leaves and blooms. Are there spots or insects on the plant? Are some areas yellowing, turning brown or discoloring faster than others? If you can't identify the culprit, take one of your problem plants to a garden center. Be sure to take the entire plant, including the roots and a 3-inch by 3-inch section of the soil the roots are growing in. Many diseases or insect problems can be spotted easily by professionals who're used to seeing them.
Watering Habits
Often it's the simplest problem that's overlooked. It may seem like you're watering your petunias all the time, but check the top 2 to 3 inches of soil. If it's dry, then the petunias need a good, deep watering. You may have to boost your watering regime. Watch out for windy days or low humidity. Weather like this can suck the moisture out of the plants much more quickly, and you'll have to water sooner than you usually do.
Considerations
Invest in good, water-retaining soil before planting. If your petunias are already in the ground, mulch about 2 inches around the plants and water it in well. Dry mulch pulls moisture from the soil, too. Choose planting containers that are deep and wide to accommodate plenty of moisture-storing soil, and they should be made from a material such as durable plastic or ceramic that will not transpire easily. Don't overfertilize your petunias. The more you fertilize, the more they'll grow, and the more water those thirsty plants will need.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Dwarf snapdragon cultivars (Antirrhinum majus) grow 8 to 12 inches tall, significantly shorter than standard snapdragons, which grow 1 1/2 to 3 1/2 feet tall. With full sun and well-draining soil, these little perennials brighten up the landscape with colorful white, yellow, peach, pink, purple, red and bi-colored flowers. Through dwarf snapdragons are technically perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10, you can also treat them as annuals in USDA zones 7 and lower.
Continuous-Release Fertilizer
Fertilize dwarf snapdragons once in spring, right after planting, in USDA zones 2 through 7. In USDA zones 8 through 10, fertilize in fall after planting to provide nutrients for the winter growing season. Use a continuous-release fertilizer, such as a 12-4-8 product, to provide sustained nutrients. Use 4 tablespoons per 4 square feet or bed around the dwarf snapdragons. Scatter the dry fertilizer evenly over the soil, then water the area until the soil is damp 6 inches deep.
Water Regularly
Water dwarf snapdragons when the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the soil starts to feel dry, giving the bed enough water to dampen the soil 6 inches deep. Caring for dwarf snapdragons successfully requires a delicate balance of regular water, without watering too much. Constantly wet, muddy soil can cause them to grow poorly.
Removing the Flowers
As dwarf snapdragons bloom and go to seed, remove the dead and fading flowers. This encourages the plants to bloom more abundantly through the season. To remove the dead flowers, a process called deadheading, pinch the stalk directly below the flower using your fingernails. Wash your hands with soap and water after.
Pests and Problems
Check dwarf snapdragons for aphids through the growing season. Aphids, small, soft-bodied insects that can be green, black or pink, feed on the leaves and flowers. Also keep an eye out for spider mites, which are minuscule white pests that form a fine webbing over the leaves where they are feeding. Start by washing aphids and spider mites off with a strong stream of water, then check daily and follow up with additional water. If the pests keep coming back, mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap with 1 quart of water in a clean garden sprayer or spray bottle. Use the mixture to spray the insects and affected leaves, until the area is wet. Repeat every four to seven days until the pests are eradicated.
Continuous-Release Fertilizer
Fertilize dwarf snapdragons once in spring, right after planting, in USDA zones 2 through 7. In USDA zones 8 through 10, fertilize in fall after planting to provide nutrients for the winter growing season. Use a continuous-release fertilizer, such as a 12-4-8 product, to provide sustained nutrients. Use 4 tablespoons per 4 square feet or bed around the dwarf snapdragons. Scatter the dry fertilizer evenly over the soil, then water the area until the soil is damp 6 inches deep.
Water Regularly
Water dwarf snapdragons when the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the soil starts to feel dry, giving the bed enough water to dampen the soil 6 inches deep. Caring for dwarf snapdragons successfully requires a delicate balance of regular water, without watering too much. Constantly wet, muddy soil can cause them to grow poorly.
Removing the Flowers
As dwarf snapdragons bloom and go to seed, remove the dead and fading flowers. This encourages the plants to bloom more abundantly through the season. To remove the dead flowers, a process called deadheading, pinch the stalk directly below the flower using your fingernails. Wash your hands with soap and water after.
Pests and Problems
Check dwarf snapdragons for aphids through the growing season. Aphids, small, soft-bodied insects that can be green, black or pink, feed on the leaves and flowers. Also keep an eye out for spider mites, which are minuscule white pests that form a fine webbing over the leaves where they are feeding. Start by washing aphids and spider mites off with a strong stream of water, then check daily and follow up with additional water. If the pests keep coming back, mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap with 1 quart of water in a clean garden sprayer or spray bottle. Use the mixture to spray the insects and affected leaves, until the area is wet. Repeat every four to seven days until the pests are eradicated.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Marigolds are annual flowering plants. Native to Mexico, marigolds prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Marigolds are related to asters and grow easily from seed or transplanted bedding plants. These plants bloom in summer with colors in shades of yellow, orange and red with solid, bi-color and striped flowers. Choose varieties from 6 to 36 inches in height. Cut back marigolds to encourage healthy foliage and prolific flowering.
Pinching
Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers.
Deadheading
Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing
Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost.
Pest Control
Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
Pinching
Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers.
Deadheading
Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing
Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost.
Pest Control
Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
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