文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Jatropha (Jatropha curcas) was once touted as the new wunderkind plant for biofuel. What is a Jatropha curcas tree? The tree or bush grows in any type of soil at a rapid rate, is toxic and produces fuel fit for diesel engines. Read on for more Jatropha tree info and see how you rate this plant.
What is a Jatropha Curcas Tree?
Jatropha is a perennial shrub or tree. It is drought resistant and easy to grow in tropical to semi-tropical locations. The plant lives for up to 50 years and may grow nearly 20 feet tall. It has a deep thick taproot which makes it adaptable to poor dry soil. The leaves are oval and lobed and deciduous. Overall, the plant is not particularly visually appealing but it does get attractive green cymes of flowerets which turn into a tri-compartment fruit with large black seeds. These large black seeds are the reason for all the hullaballoo, because they are high in burnable oil. An interesting piece of Jatropha tree info is that it is listed as a weed in Brazil, Fiji, Honduras, India, Jamaica, Panama, Puerto Rico and Salvador. This proves how adaptable and hardy the plant is even when introduced to a new region.
Jatropha curcas cultivation can produce oil that is a good substitute for current biofuel. Its usefulness has been challenged but it is true the plant can produce seeds with an oil content of 37%. Unfortunately, it is still a part of the food vs. fuel debate, as it requires land that could go into food production. Scientists are trying to develop a “super Jatropha” with bigger seeds and, therefore, bigger oil yields.
Jatropha Curcas Cultivation
Jatropha uses are rather limited. Most parts of the plant are toxic to eat due to the latex sap, but is used as a medicinal. It is useful in treating snakebite, paralysis, dropsy and apparently some cancers. The plant may have originated in Central to South America but has been introduced around the world and flourishes wild in places like India, Africa and Asia. Chief among Jatropha uses is its potential as a clean burning fuel to replace fossil fuels. Plantation cultivation in certain areas has been attempted, but overall Jatropha curcas cultivation has been a dismal failure. This is because the production mass of oil cannot equal the land use by cropping Jatropha.
Jatropha Plant Care and Growth
The plant is easy to grow from cuttings or seed. Cuttings result in faster maturity and quicker seed production. It prefers warm climates but can survive a light frost. The deep taproot makes it drought tolerant, although best growth will be achieved with supplemental water occasionally. It doesn’t have any major disease or pest issues in its natural regions. It may be pruned, but flowers and fruit form on terminal growth, so it is best to wait until after flowering. No other Jatropha plant care is necessary.
This plant is useful as a hedge or living fence, or just as an ornamental stand alone specimen.
What is a Jatropha Curcas Tree?
Jatropha is a perennial shrub or tree. It is drought resistant and easy to grow in tropical to semi-tropical locations. The plant lives for up to 50 years and may grow nearly 20 feet tall. It has a deep thick taproot which makes it adaptable to poor dry soil. The leaves are oval and lobed and deciduous. Overall, the plant is not particularly visually appealing but it does get attractive green cymes of flowerets which turn into a tri-compartment fruit with large black seeds. These large black seeds are the reason for all the hullaballoo, because they are high in burnable oil. An interesting piece of Jatropha tree info is that it is listed as a weed in Brazil, Fiji, Honduras, India, Jamaica, Panama, Puerto Rico and Salvador. This proves how adaptable and hardy the plant is even when introduced to a new region.
Jatropha curcas cultivation can produce oil that is a good substitute for current biofuel. Its usefulness has been challenged but it is true the plant can produce seeds with an oil content of 37%. Unfortunately, it is still a part of the food vs. fuel debate, as it requires land that could go into food production. Scientists are trying to develop a “super Jatropha” with bigger seeds and, therefore, bigger oil yields.
Jatropha Curcas Cultivation
Jatropha uses are rather limited. Most parts of the plant are toxic to eat due to the latex sap, but is used as a medicinal. It is useful in treating snakebite, paralysis, dropsy and apparently some cancers. The plant may have originated in Central to South America but has been introduced around the world and flourishes wild in places like India, Africa and Asia. Chief among Jatropha uses is its potential as a clean burning fuel to replace fossil fuels. Plantation cultivation in certain areas has been attempted, but overall Jatropha curcas cultivation has been a dismal failure. This is because the production mass of oil cannot equal the land use by cropping Jatropha.
Jatropha Plant Care and Growth
The plant is easy to grow from cuttings or seed. Cuttings result in faster maturity and quicker seed production. It prefers warm climates but can survive a light frost. The deep taproot makes it drought tolerant, although best growth will be achieved with supplemental water occasionally. It doesn’t have any major disease or pest issues in its natural regions. It may be pruned, but flowers and fruit form on terminal growth, so it is best to wait until after flowering. No other Jatropha plant care is necessary.
This plant is useful as a hedge or living fence, or just as an ornamental stand alone specimen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Cypress trees are fast-growing North American natives that deserve a prominent place in the landscape. Many gardeners don’t consider planting cypress because they believe it only grows in wet, boggy soil. While it’s true that their native environment is constantly wet, once they’re established, cypress trees grow well on dry land and can even withstand occasional drought. The two types of cypress trees found in the U.S. are bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) and pond cypress (T. distichum).
Cypress Tree Info
Cypress trees have a straight trunk that tapers at the base, giving it a soaring perspective. In cultivated landscapes, they grow 50 to 80 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. These deciduous conifers have short needles with a feathery appearance. Most varieties have needles that turn brown in winter, but a few have lovely yellow or gold fall color. Bald cypress has a tendency to form “knees,” which are pieces of root that grow above the ground in odd and sometimes mysterious shapes. Knees are more common for trees grown in water, and the deeper the water, the taller the knees. Some knees reach a height of 6 feet. Although no one is sure about the function of knees, they may help the tree get oxygen when they are underwater. These projections are sometimes unwelcome in the home landscape because they make mowing difficult and they can trip passers-by.
Where Cypress Trees Grow
Both types of cypress trees grow well in areas with lots of water. Bald cypress grows naturally near springs, on lake banks, in swamps or in bodies of water that flow at a slow to moderate rate. In cultivated landscapes, you can grow them in almost any soil. Pond cypress prefers still water and doesn’t grow well on land. This variety is rarely used in home landscapes because it needs boggy soil that is low in both nutrients and oxygen. It grows naturally in Southeastern wetlands, including the Everglades.
How to Care for Cypress Trees
Growing cypress trees successfully depends on planting the in the right location. Choose a site with full sun or partial shade and rich, acid soil. Cypress trees are hardy is USDA zones 5 through 10. Drench the soil around the tree after planting and cover the root zone with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch. Give the tree a good soaking every week for the first few months. Cypress trees need water most in spring when they enter a growth spurt and in fall just before they go dormant. They can withstand occasional drought once established, but it’s best to water them if you haven’t had a drenching rain for more than a month.
Wait a year after planting before fertilizing a cypress tree for the first time. Cypress trees growing in a regularly fertilized lawn don’t generally need additional fertilizer once established. Otherwise, fertilize the tree every year or two with a balanced fertilizer or a thin layer of compost in fall. Spread a pound of balanced fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter over an area approximately equal to the spread of the canopy.
Cypress Tree Info
Cypress trees have a straight trunk that tapers at the base, giving it a soaring perspective. In cultivated landscapes, they grow 50 to 80 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. These deciduous conifers have short needles with a feathery appearance. Most varieties have needles that turn brown in winter, but a few have lovely yellow or gold fall color. Bald cypress has a tendency to form “knees,” which are pieces of root that grow above the ground in odd and sometimes mysterious shapes. Knees are more common for trees grown in water, and the deeper the water, the taller the knees. Some knees reach a height of 6 feet. Although no one is sure about the function of knees, they may help the tree get oxygen when they are underwater. These projections are sometimes unwelcome in the home landscape because they make mowing difficult and they can trip passers-by.
Where Cypress Trees Grow
Both types of cypress trees grow well in areas with lots of water. Bald cypress grows naturally near springs, on lake banks, in swamps or in bodies of water that flow at a slow to moderate rate. In cultivated landscapes, you can grow them in almost any soil. Pond cypress prefers still water and doesn’t grow well on land. This variety is rarely used in home landscapes because it needs boggy soil that is low in both nutrients and oxygen. It grows naturally in Southeastern wetlands, including the Everglades.
How to Care for Cypress Trees
Growing cypress trees successfully depends on planting the in the right location. Choose a site with full sun or partial shade and rich, acid soil. Cypress trees are hardy is USDA zones 5 through 10. Drench the soil around the tree after planting and cover the root zone with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch. Give the tree a good soaking every week for the first few months. Cypress trees need water most in spring when they enter a growth spurt and in fall just before they go dormant. They can withstand occasional drought once established, but it’s best to water them if you haven’t had a drenching rain for more than a month.
Wait a year after planting before fertilizing a cypress tree for the first time. Cypress trees growing in a regularly fertilized lawn don’t generally need additional fertilizer once established. Otherwise, fertilize the tree every year or two with a balanced fertilizer or a thin layer of compost in fall. Spread a pound of balanced fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter over an area approximately equal to the spread of the canopy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Pachysandra is a favorite ground cover plant in hard-to-plant areas such as under trees, or in shady areas with poor or acidic soil. Unlike other plants, pachysandra ground cover does not mind competing for its nutrients, and growing pachysandra plants is easy if you have an abundance of shade in your landscape. Learn more about how to plant pachysandra and its care so you can enjoy the small white, fragrant flowers (which appear in the spring) of this low maintenance plant.
How to Plant Pachysandra
There are several varieties of pachysandra available to choose from. The recommended pachysandra growing zone for U.S. Department of Agriculture is 4 through 7.
Pachysandra is easily transplanted from garden flats or divisions in the spring. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart to accommodate their spread. Pachysandra prefers soil that is moist and amended with rich organic matter. Make sure the planting area is clear from debris before planting and that the soil is loose. Holes for new plants should be 4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pachysandra ground cover has evergreen leaves that will burn in the sun. It is always best to plant on an overcast day and in shady locations. Water new plants thoroughly and provide 2 inches of mulch to help with water retention.
Pachysandra Plant Care
Pachysandra requires only minimal care to look its best. New plants can be pinched back for several years to encourage bushiness. Keep areas of pachysandra free from weeds and monitor young plants during dry weather. Once plants are established, they can handle some period of drought; however, young plants require adequate moisture in order to become established.
Now that you know a little more about pachysandra plant care, you can enjoy this low-growing beauty in the shady spots of your landscape.
How to Plant Pachysandra
There are several varieties of pachysandra available to choose from. The recommended pachysandra growing zone for U.S. Department of Agriculture is 4 through 7.
Pachysandra is easily transplanted from garden flats or divisions in the spring. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart to accommodate their spread. Pachysandra prefers soil that is moist and amended with rich organic matter. Make sure the planting area is clear from debris before planting and that the soil is loose. Holes for new plants should be 4 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Pachysandra ground cover has evergreen leaves that will burn in the sun. It is always best to plant on an overcast day and in shady locations. Water new plants thoroughly and provide 2 inches of mulch to help with water retention.
Pachysandra Plant Care
Pachysandra requires only minimal care to look its best. New plants can be pinched back for several years to encourage bushiness. Keep areas of pachysandra free from weeds and monitor young plants during dry weather. Once plants are established, they can handle some period of drought; however, young plants require adequate moisture in order to become established.
Now that you know a little more about pachysandra plant care, you can enjoy this low-growing beauty in the shady spots of your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
What is Japanese butterbur? Also known as Japanese sweet coltsfoot, Japanese butterbur plant (Petasites japonicus) is a gigantic perennial plant that grows in soggy soil, primarily around streams and ponds. The plant is native to China, Korea and Japan, where it thrives in woodland areas or beside moist streambanks. Still wondering exactly what is Japanese butterbur? Keep reading to find out more.
Japanese Butterbur Information
Japanese butterbur is a dramatic plant with sturdy, pencil-size rhizomes, yard-long stalks and round leaves that can measure as much as 48 inches across, depending on the variety. The stalks are edible and often known as “Fuki.” Spikes of small, sweet-smelling white flowers decorate the plant in late winter, just before the leaves make an appearance in early spring.
Growing Japanese Butterbur
Growing Japanese butterbur is a decision that shouldn’t be taken lightly, as the plant spreads vigorously and, once established, is extremely difficult to eradicate. If you decide to give it a try, plant Japanese butterbur where it can spread freely without bothering you or your neighbors, or be sure it’s in an area where you can maintain control by implementing some type of root barrier. You can also control Japanese butterbur by planting it in a large container or tub (without drainage holes), then sink the container into the mud, a solution that works well around small ponds or boggy areas of your garden. Japanese butterbur prefers partial or full shade. The plant tolerates nearly any type of soil, as long as the ground is consistently wet. Be careful about locating Japanese butterbur in windy areas, as wind may damage the huge leaves.
Caring for Japanese Butterbur
Caring for Japanese butterbur plants can be summed up in a sentence or two. Basically, just divide the plant in early spring, if needed. Be sure to keep the soil wet at all times. That’s it! Now just sit back and enjoy this unusual, exotic plant.
Japanese Butterbur Information
Japanese butterbur is a dramatic plant with sturdy, pencil-size rhizomes, yard-long stalks and round leaves that can measure as much as 48 inches across, depending on the variety. The stalks are edible and often known as “Fuki.” Spikes of small, sweet-smelling white flowers decorate the plant in late winter, just before the leaves make an appearance in early spring.
Growing Japanese Butterbur
Growing Japanese butterbur is a decision that shouldn’t be taken lightly, as the plant spreads vigorously and, once established, is extremely difficult to eradicate. If you decide to give it a try, plant Japanese butterbur where it can spread freely without bothering you or your neighbors, or be sure it’s in an area where you can maintain control by implementing some type of root barrier. You can also control Japanese butterbur by planting it in a large container or tub (without drainage holes), then sink the container into the mud, a solution that works well around small ponds or boggy areas of your garden. Japanese butterbur prefers partial or full shade. The plant tolerates nearly any type of soil, as long as the ground is consistently wet. Be careful about locating Japanese butterbur in windy areas, as wind may damage the huge leaves.
Caring for Japanese Butterbur
Caring for Japanese butterbur plants can be summed up in a sentence or two. Basically, just divide the plant in early spring, if needed. Be sure to keep the soil wet at all times. That’s it! Now just sit back and enjoy this unusual, exotic plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) produces a colorful spring carpet of soft pastel hues. Little expert knowledge is needed on how to plant and care for creeping phlox. Growing creeping phlox over a rockery or in tough soil conditions provides a nearly carefree ground cover or cascading plant. Consider growing it in between pavers, in a planter or just as a part of a bright spring bed as well.
About Creeping Phlox
A perennial nature and semi-evergreen habit are important facts about creeping phlox. These plants have needle-like foliage with small starry, five-pointed flowers in red, lavender, pink, white or bluish-purple. Creeping phlox blooms in spring and produces long, spreading stems, which become woody with age. These thicker growths cease to produce flowers over time and may be cut out of the plant to encourage the newer, softer stems that do bloom. In addition, the plant has a moderate growth rate and can get 4 to 6 inches high with a 2 foot spread.
Creeping Phlox Planting Instructions
Learning how to plant and care for creeping phlox is quite simple. The plant has an easy going nature and thrives in a variety of conditions. Almost any soil is suitable for growing creeping phlox as long as it is in full sun to partial shade. For best results, however, plant it in a sunny location where soils are moist but well drained. Dig in some organic soil amendments to enrich the soil and water the plant until it is established. Plant creeping phlox at soil level and avoid burying the stem in the earth. Follow these easy creeping phlox planting instructions for years of early spring color.
Care of Creeping Phlox
Little special care or maintenance is necessary when growing creeping phlox. The plant benefits from an early spring application of fertilizer to encourage new growth and flowering. Even established plants should have supplemental watering in hot summer periods and plants along rockeries may show signs of scorching due to the hot surroundings. The stems can be cut back after flowering to promote a second bloom. Care of creeping phlox may also include cutting the plant back in late winter to allow for rejuvenation and to produce young, more compact stems. Watching for mites and other pests and dealing with these infestations as soon as they are spotted using an organic insecticidal soap is also important for the plant’s care.
Creeping Phlox Propagation
The plant can also be divided to provide more growing creeping phlox plants. Simply dig the plant up, preserving the root ball. Cut through the center of the plant and through the roots with a sharp soil knife or even a spade. Replant one-half of the phlox in the original hole and plant the other anywhere you want more of the colorful ground cover. The process can be done every few years to create healthier plants. You can also take stem cuttings for rooting in summer or fall. Dip these in a plant hormone and plant in a soil-less medium to take root.
About Creeping Phlox
A perennial nature and semi-evergreen habit are important facts about creeping phlox. These plants have needle-like foliage with small starry, five-pointed flowers in red, lavender, pink, white or bluish-purple. Creeping phlox blooms in spring and produces long, spreading stems, which become woody with age. These thicker growths cease to produce flowers over time and may be cut out of the plant to encourage the newer, softer stems that do bloom. In addition, the plant has a moderate growth rate and can get 4 to 6 inches high with a 2 foot spread.
Creeping Phlox Planting Instructions
Learning how to plant and care for creeping phlox is quite simple. The plant has an easy going nature and thrives in a variety of conditions. Almost any soil is suitable for growing creeping phlox as long as it is in full sun to partial shade. For best results, however, plant it in a sunny location where soils are moist but well drained. Dig in some organic soil amendments to enrich the soil and water the plant until it is established. Plant creeping phlox at soil level and avoid burying the stem in the earth. Follow these easy creeping phlox planting instructions for years of early spring color.
Care of Creeping Phlox
Little special care or maintenance is necessary when growing creeping phlox. The plant benefits from an early spring application of fertilizer to encourage new growth and flowering. Even established plants should have supplemental watering in hot summer periods and plants along rockeries may show signs of scorching due to the hot surroundings. The stems can be cut back after flowering to promote a second bloom. Care of creeping phlox may also include cutting the plant back in late winter to allow for rejuvenation and to produce young, more compact stems. Watching for mites and other pests and dealing with these infestations as soon as they are spotted using an organic insecticidal soap is also important for the plant’s care.
Creeping Phlox Propagation
The plant can also be divided to provide more growing creeping phlox plants. Simply dig the plant up, preserving the root ball. Cut through the center of the plant and through the roots with a sharp soil knife or even a spade. Replant one-half of the phlox in the original hole and plant the other anywhere you want more of the colorful ground cover. The process can be done every few years to create healthier plants. You can also take stem cuttings for rooting in summer or fall. Dip these in a plant hormone and plant in a soil-less medium to take root.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Given ideal planting locations of full sun and well-drained soil, Knock Out roses (Rosa spp.) offer near-continuous blooms in exchange for minimal maintenance. From the original Knock Out rose (Rosa "Radrazz") to later varieties in the Knock Out group, simple, basic care keeps these roses looking their best.
Water Requirements
During their first year in the ground, Knock Out roses need regular water as roots become established. One inch of water per week from rainfall or supplemental watering sets a starting point, but a hands-on approach keeps watering on track. Test the soil about 3 inches down from the surface; it should be cool and damp. For established bushes, let the soil dry at that depth before you water. Knock Out leaves also give clear tips on when these drought-tolerant shrubs need a drink. Normally glossy, thirsty leaves lose their luster. Infrequent, thorough waterings suit these roses. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch helps keep roots cool and retains soil moisture.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizers are optional when it comes to Knock Out roses. Proper planting avoids added fertilizer in the hole, and normal garden soil meets their needs in future years. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost added each spring provides gentle, long-lasting nutrition. If desired, a slow-release rose fertilizer can be used. For example, apply 3/4 cup of a granular, 3-4-3 rose fertilizer per Knock Out rose every six weeks during the active growing season. Gently work the fertilizer into the soil around the shrub's base, and water the area well. Avoid fast-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers; they spur lanky growth and reduce blooms. Stop fertilizing two months before your area's first frost so the roses prepare for winter.
Pruning Procedures
Known as self-cleaning roses, Knock Outs drop old blossoms on their own after blooming, eliminating the need for deadheading and preparing the way for the next flush of flowers. Knock Outs grow 3 to 4 feet tall and wide in most climates, tripling in height after an annual pruning. The roses aren't fussy about techniques. Cut them back to 12 inches in height or one-third of your desired size, just as new growth begins. Use sharp, bypass pruners or bypass loppers -- even hedging shears work with these roses. Sterilize your pruner blades with household disinfectant before and after each bush, and wear protective clothing, including gloves, long sleeves and safety eyewear.
Pest and Disease Control
Diseases and insects rarely trouble Knock Out roses. The shrubs resist common rose diseases, including black spot and mildew, and eliminate the need for disease control beyond proper siting and care. Common garden pests, such as aphids and spider mites, occasionally may appear. A strong burst of water from your garden hose dislodges these pests and sends them on their way. Aphids generally cluster on stems below the blossoms, while spider mites stay hidden on the undersides of leaves. Target your spray where the intruders lie, and that's all the pest control Knock Outs generally need.
Winter Protection
Knock Out roses are reliably hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, with Sunny Knock Out (Rosa "Radsunny") hardy in USDA zone 4 as well. For gardeners pushing the envelope in cold climates with the Knock Out group, extra winter insulation helps protect the roses' crowns from winter damage. After the ground has frozen and the shrubs are dormant, mound mulch or oak leaves over their crowns to a depth of about 8 inches. Remove the mulch as soil warms in spring. Knock Out roses are grown on their own roots, so even when they die back to the ground in harsh winters, they spring back from the roots in their hardiness zones.
Water Requirements
During their first year in the ground, Knock Out roses need regular water as roots become established. One inch of water per week from rainfall or supplemental watering sets a starting point, but a hands-on approach keeps watering on track. Test the soil about 3 inches down from the surface; it should be cool and damp. For established bushes, let the soil dry at that depth before you water. Knock Out leaves also give clear tips on when these drought-tolerant shrubs need a drink. Normally glossy, thirsty leaves lose their luster. Infrequent, thorough waterings suit these roses. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch helps keep roots cool and retains soil moisture.
Fertilizer Needs
Fertilizers are optional when it comes to Knock Out roses. Proper planting avoids added fertilizer in the hole, and normal garden soil meets their needs in future years. A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost added each spring provides gentle, long-lasting nutrition. If desired, a slow-release rose fertilizer can be used. For example, apply 3/4 cup of a granular, 3-4-3 rose fertilizer per Knock Out rose every six weeks during the active growing season. Gently work the fertilizer into the soil around the shrub's base, and water the area well. Avoid fast-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers; they spur lanky growth and reduce blooms. Stop fertilizing two months before your area's first frost so the roses prepare for winter.
Pruning Procedures
Known as self-cleaning roses, Knock Outs drop old blossoms on their own after blooming, eliminating the need for deadheading and preparing the way for the next flush of flowers. Knock Outs grow 3 to 4 feet tall and wide in most climates, tripling in height after an annual pruning. The roses aren't fussy about techniques. Cut them back to 12 inches in height or one-third of your desired size, just as new growth begins. Use sharp, bypass pruners or bypass loppers -- even hedging shears work with these roses. Sterilize your pruner blades with household disinfectant before and after each bush, and wear protective clothing, including gloves, long sleeves and safety eyewear.
Pest and Disease Control
Diseases and insects rarely trouble Knock Out roses. The shrubs resist common rose diseases, including black spot and mildew, and eliminate the need for disease control beyond proper siting and care. Common garden pests, such as aphids and spider mites, occasionally may appear. A strong burst of water from your garden hose dislodges these pests and sends them on their way. Aphids generally cluster on stems below the blossoms, while spider mites stay hidden on the undersides of leaves. Target your spray where the intruders lie, and that's all the pest control Knock Outs generally need.
Winter Protection
Knock Out roses are reliably hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, with Sunny Knock Out (Rosa "Radsunny") hardy in USDA zone 4 as well. For gardeners pushing the envelope in cold climates with the Knock Out group, extra winter insulation helps protect the roses' crowns from winter damage. After the ground has frozen and the shrubs are dormant, mound mulch or oak leaves over their crowns to a depth of about 8 inches. Remove the mulch as soil warms in spring. Knock Out roses are grown on their own roots, so even when they die back to the ground in harsh winters, they spring back from the roots in their hardiness zones.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose (Rosa spp.) cuttings root slowly and with little indication on top of the soil that there's anything going on below it. The first sign that the process is progressing – the appearance of new foliage -- comes months after you plant the cutting. It will be several more months until the cutting has taken root enough to be transplanted outdoors. It can be a frustrating wait for the impatient, but it's the best way to get a new rosebush that's identical to the parent plant.
The Best of Times
Roses, depending on the species, cultivar or variety, are hardy in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones. Know the zones for your particular plant, because the best time to take a rose cutting depends largely on climate. Typically, cuttings are ready in late fall, just after the last of the season's flowers fade and the weather cools. Cuttings can be taken in spring, as long as you wait until the stem is no longer soft and green.
Plan Ahead
Once the cutting is removed from the bush, work quickly so it doesn't dry out. Prepare in advance before you head out to the garden: Be sure your pruning shears are razor sharp and disinfected. Soak them for five minutes in a solution of 1 part bleach and 3 parts water; rinse them with water and allow them to air dry before using them. Fill a 4-inch nursery pot that has drainage holes in the bottom with a combination of 3 parts sand and 1 part peat moss and pour water over the mixture until it is saturated. Use your finger or a pencil to create a 3- to 4-inch deep planting hole, and set the pot aside to drain. Grab a moist paper towel and a plastic produce bag as you head out to the garden.
Be Choosy
Look for a rose stem that has recently bloomed. Measure 6 inches, from the tip of the stem back toward the main stem, and make a 45-degree angled cut to remove it from the bush. Immediately wrap the stem in the moist paper towel and enclose it in the bag. Do not allow the cutting to dry out for even a short amount of time.
Plant It
Remove all the foliage from the bottom part of the stem, and allow three or four leaves to remain at the top. If there are hips or faded flowers, remove those as well. Use a small, sharp knife to scrape the outer layer of bark from the bottom inch of stem. Dip that portion of the stem in water, and then roll it in rooting hormone powder until it's covered. Immediately stick the hormone-tipped end of the cutting into the prepared hole in the planting medium and use your hands to pack the medium around the cutting.
Care While Rooting
Rose cuttings require humidity to produce roots, so mist the plant with water from a spray bottle. Insert four wood craft sticks, equally spaced, into the planting medium around the inside perimeter of the pot. Slide the pot into a plastic bag, adjusting the plastic so that the sticks hold it away from the cutting. Secure the bag and place the pot in an outdoor area where there's filtered sunlight. Open the bag for about 15 minutes every other day to allow air to circulate. Remove the bag when you notice new foliage. Water the soil to keep it moist but otherwise do not disturb the cutting until it's ready to be planted in a permanent spot outdoors -- typically one year from taking the cutting.
The Best of Times
Roses, depending on the species, cultivar or variety, are hardy in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones. Know the zones for your particular plant, because the best time to take a rose cutting depends largely on climate. Typically, cuttings are ready in late fall, just after the last of the season's flowers fade and the weather cools. Cuttings can be taken in spring, as long as you wait until the stem is no longer soft and green.
Plan Ahead
Once the cutting is removed from the bush, work quickly so it doesn't dry out. Prepare in advance before you head out to the garden: Be sure your pruning shears are razor sharp and disinfected. Soak them for five minutes in a solution of 1 part bleach and 3 parts water; rinse them with water and allow them to air dry before using them. Fill a 4-inch nursery pot that has drainage holes in the bottom with a combination of 3 parts sand and 1 part peat moss and pour water over the mixture until it is saturated. Use your finger or a pencil to create a 3- to 4-inch deep planting hole, and set the pot aside to drain. Grab a moist paper towel and a plastic produce bag as you head out to the garden.
Be Choosy
Look for a rose stem that has recently bloomed. Measure 6 inches, from the tip of the stem back toward the main stem, and make a 45-degree angled cut to remove it from the bush. Immediately wrap the stem in the moist paper towel and enclose it in the bag. Do not allow the cutting to dry out for even a short amount of time.
Plant It
Remove all the foliage from the bottom part of the stem, and allow three or four leaves to remain at the top. If there are hips or faded flowers, remove those as well. Use a small, sharp knife to scrape the outer layer of bark from the bottom inch of stem. Dip that portion of the stem in water, and then roll it in rooting hormone powder until it's covered. Immediately stick the hormone-tipped end of the cutting into the prepared hole in the planting medium and use your hands to pack the medium around the cutting.
Care While Rooting
Rose cuttings require humidity to produce roots, so mist the plant with water from a spray bottle. Insert four wood craft sticks, equally spaced, into the planting medium around the inside perimeter of the pot. Slide the pot into a plastic bag, adjusting the plastic so that the sticks hold it away from the cutting. Secure the bag and place the pot in an outdoor area where there's filtered sunlight. Open the bag for about 15 minutes every other day to allow air to circulate. Remove the bag when you notice new foliage. Water the soil to keep it moist but otherwise do not disturb the cutting until it's ready to be planted in a permanent spot outdoors -- typically one year from taking the cutting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original cherry red-flowered Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radrazz') and its varieties produce showy flowers and are relatively disease-resistant. The shrubs grow up to 5 feet high and wide, thriving in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH level between 6.0 and 6.5.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Chameleon plants (Houittuynia) are a colorful ground cover in areas that might otherwise remain bare because of poor or wet soil. Chameleon ground cover is adaptable to many areas and can be useful in the landscape. However, chameleon plant care includes containing the plant and keeping its invasive tendencies within bounds. Chameleon ground cover, of the Lizard’s-Tail family, is attractive. Colors of red, bronze, cream, and yellow border green leaves when growing chameleon plants. Chameleon ground cover is an herbaceous perennial, dying back in winter. In June and July, inconspicuous flowers bloom, but are most often not noticeable.
Containing Growing Chameleon Plants
If you’re interested in having the chameleon plant growing in your yard, pond or bog, look at ways to minimize chameleon plant care by planting in containers and contained areas. Learning how to grow chameleon ground cover is not hard, once you’ve learned how to keep it under control. Growing chameleon plants need little encouragement. They can quickly cover an area. Just as easily, chameleon ground cover can get out of hand. Plant rhizomes into a large container and sink it into a hole in the ground in the area where coverage is desired. Get the chameleon plant growing near a buried fence or sidewalk that may limit growth and spread. Sprigs growing out of the designated area should be removed at the rhizome.
How to Grow Chameleon Ground Cover
Plant chameleon ground cover in a full sun or a partially shaded area. Best color develops in a sunny spot, but the plant remains vigorous in a shaded area. Have the chameleon plant growing in large areas where it can be mowed, if desired. You don’t want this plant growing near landscaped areas that it might invade. Avoid growing it near the porch or deck, as growing chameleon plants emit a fragrance similar to diesel fuel. Chameleon ground cover is useful around ponds and boggy areas where color is needed in wet soil. Pot chameleon plants as you would any other water plant and get them going for sensational interest in the water garden or bog.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow chameleon ground cover and it’s pros and cons, plant it responsibly, so that it doesn’t invade forests and destroy native plants. Take advantage of this useful ground cover while keeping it under control.
Containing Growing Chameleon Plants
If you’re interested in having the chameleon plant growing in your yard, pond or bog, look at ways to minimize chameleon plant care by planting in containers and contained areas. Learning how to grow chameleon ground cover is not hard, once you’ve learned how to keep it under control. Growing chameleon plants need little encouragement. They can quickly cover an area. Just as easily, chameleon ground cover can get out of hand. Plant rhizomes into a large container and sink it into a hole in the ground in the area where coverage is desired. Get the chameleon plant growing near a buried fence or sidewalk that may limit growth and spread. Sprigs growing out of the designated area should be removed at the rhizome.
How to Grow Chameleon Ground Cover
Plant chameleon ground cover in a full sun or a partially shaded area. Best color develops in a sunny spot, but the plant remains vigorous in a shaded area. Have the chameleon plant growing in large areas where it can be mowed, if desired. You don’t want this plant growing near landscaped areas that it might invade. Avoid growing it near the porch or deck, as growing chameleon plants emit a fragrance similar to diesel fuel. Chameleon ground cover is useful around ponds and boggy areas where color is needed in wet soil. Pot chameleon plants as you would any other water plant and get them going for sensational interest in the water garden or bog.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow chameleon ground cover and it’s pros and cons, plant it responsibly, so that it doesn’t invade forests and destroy native plants. Take advantage of this useful ground cover while keeping it under control.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Red clover is a common soil amendment and green manure. The plant fixes nitrogen in soil, enhancing fertility for better growth in other plants. If you are thinking about using red clover, why not try ornamental clover plants. Red feather foxtail clover has spectacular tufted flowers that are attractive and useful. Red feather clover not only adds nitrogen to soil but has other benefits after providing a colorful floral display.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
What is Red Feather Clover?
Growing red clover to enhance soil is a time honored tradition amongst organic gardeners and traditional farmers. Trifolium rubens is an ornamental form of white clover, valued for its nutrient benefits and its lovely blooms. Ornamental red clover performs the same functions as standard red clovers while enhancing the natural landscape. Red feather foxtail clover is easy to grow from seed and needs little care or maintenance.
This clover provides the most arresting floral display of all the species and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Bees love the flowers too! The plant grows 15 inches tall and has fuzzy purple to red flowers from early to late summer. It is an herbaceous perennial with characteristic clover leaves and a spreading stolen system that allows the plant to clamber over and cover large spaces.
Red clover is even edible and can be used as a tea, animal browse, or sprouted for salads. If you are growing red clover for its edible or medicinal properties, make sure no chemicals are used in the area. Other benefits of growing red clover include its ability to break up soil and prevent erosion.
How to Grow Ornamental Clover Plants
Clover thrives in moist or dry conditions but drainage should be good. Slightly acidic soils with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5 are preferred. You can plant the clover in full sun or partial shade, although full sun provides the best yields. Sow the tiny seeds in a well-prepared bed from January to April or August to November. Plant seeds at ¼ inch deep or even scatter them on the surface of the soil and lightly dust them with earth. Keep them moderately moist until germination, which is generally 14 to 21 days. You may also choose to start plants indoors in flats. Transplant them outside when there are 6 true leaves and soil has warmed. Water established plants regularly. Choose your site carefully, as red clover has a tendency to spread and become invasive.
Red Clover Care
You may choose to cut back seed heads to prevent over-sowing of seeds and invasion of other beds. Otherwise, you can opt to till late summer planted clover in spring to increase soil fertility. Plants sown in late winter to early summer may be allowed to persist as a ground cover and cover crop to combat weeds and enhance soil properties. If you choose to harvest the plant for consumption, take fresh flowers and leaves at any time. Ornamental red clover can be harvested up to three times in the season. You may dry them or use them fresh.
Sprouted clover seeds add a unique texture and flavor to salads and sandwiches. Soak seeds in warm water for 6 hours and then put them in a shallow bowl or seed sprouter. Place the container in a dark location for 3 days, rinsing and draining the seed twice per day. By the fourth day, you should seed sprouts and it is time to move them to a light location to develop green color and maximum nutrients. Use them as you would any sprout.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If your breakfast includes bananas and a cup of joe, you'll have enough nutritional scraps to feed your roses (Rosa spp.) too. Banana fruits and peels, composted first or not, add phosphorus and potassium to rose soil, and coffee grounds provide pinches of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium.
Rosy Dreams
Vibrant, healthy rose bushes fight off diseases and produce the best blossoms, so a gardener does what she can to make her roses strong. You give your roses some of the ingredients for healthy living, like sunlight and air, by selecting a good planting site. Mother nature provides both water and nutrients, but just as you add irrigation when needed, you can supplement nutrients by adding fertilizer to the soil. Consider both coffee grounds and banana peels in that category.
Feeding Soil
When you add compost or fertilizer, you feed the soil, not the rose plant growing in it. Plants produce their own food, taking up nutrients in the soil and converting them into sugars by the magic of photosynthesis. When you add material to the soil, you replace the nutrients your roses have used, providing them with a steady supply. This should be done every month or so throughout the growing season. The three primary nutrients required for rose growth and health are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Between coffee grounds and bananas, you'll add all three to the soil.
Coffee Grounds for Nitrogen
Coffee grounds are 2 percent nitrogen, so from the get-go they increase the nitrogen level of the soil. According to the Oregon State University Extension service, they are an excellent source of nitrogen for composting. Keep the grounds to 25 percent or less of the pile. Rose gardeners can also spread several inches of coffee grounds directly on the rose bed soil. Either work the grounds into the soil or else cover a thin layer with several inches of dried leaves to prevent them from drying out.
Banana Peels
Banana fruit and peels are rich in phosphorus and the peels in potassium as well. Roses need potassium for vigor and phosphorus to bloom, so bananas and roses are a match made in plant heaven. Some gardeners prefer to chop up bananas and compost them in the bin but other simply bury fruit or peels at the base of the plants. If you add uncomposted organic material directly to the soil, it's a good idea to toss in a few tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer at the same time, since it takes nitrogen to break down the material.
Rosy Dreams
Vibrant, healthy rose bushes fight off diseases and produce the best blossoms, so a gardener does what she can to make her roses strong. You give your roses some of the ingredients for healthy living, like sunlight and air, by selecting a good planting site. Mother nature provides both water and nutrients, but just as you add irrigation when needed, you can supplement nutrients by adding fertilizer to the soil. Consider both coffee grounds and banana peels in that category.
Feeding Soil
When you add compost or fertilizer, you feed the soil, not the rose plant growing in it. Plants produce their own food, taking up nutrients in the soil and converting them into sugars by the magic of photosynthesis. When you add material to the soil, you replace the nutrients your roses have used, providing them with a steady supply. This should be done every month or so throughout the growing season. The three primary nutrients required for rose growth and health are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Between coffee grounds and bananas, you'll add all three to the soil.
Coffee Grounds for Nitrogen
Coffee grounds are 2 percent nitrogen, so from the get-go they increase the nitrogen level of the soil. According to the Oregon State University Extension service, they are an excellent source of nitrogen for composting. Keep the grounds to 25 percent or less of the pile. Rose gardeners can also spread several inches of coffee grounds directly on the rose bed soil. Either work the grounds into the soil or else cover a thin layer with several inches of dried leaves to prevent them from drying out.
Banana Peels
Banana fruit and peels are rich in phosphorus and the peels in potassium as well. Roses need potassium for vigor and phosphorus to bloom, so bananas and roses are a match made in plant heaven. Some gardeners prefer to chop up bananas and compost them in the bin but other simply bury fruit or peels at the base of the plants. If you add uncomposted organic material directly to the soil, it's a good idea to toss in a few tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer at the same time, since it takes nitrogen to break down the material.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea) is a true grass native to Eurasia and found in moist, fertile, acidic soil. It has excellent use as an ornamental due to its neat tufting habit and charming, persistent inflorescence. The flowers may soar 5 to 8 feet above the basal foliage, producing an architectural appearance that stands out in the garden. Try growing ornamental moor grass in a massed planting for maximum effect.
How to Grow Moor Grass
Ornamental grass lovers should not pass up the opportunity to acquire autumn moor grass. Also, called purple moor grass, this attractive plant has appeal as a single specimen in a combined planter, an accent in the perennial garden or even perched in the rockery. Moor grasses come in many cultivars and are commercially represented by 12 commonly available names. Each has a slightly different foliage trait, height and inflorescence but the basic mounding habit and fine blades recognize them as part of the family.
Moor grass is seasonally interesting from summer to winter. The plant is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 4 and adaptable to many types of soils as long as they are moist but well draining.
Some partner plants with similar moisture needs to try growing with moor grass are:
Epimediums
Coreopsis
Salix or willow
Evergreen ornamental grasses
The plant produces numerous seeds, so remove the seed head in fall to prevent spread. Spread mulch around the grass to a depth of at least 2 inches of good organic material to prevent weed competitors and conserve moisture. Keep mulch away from direct contact with the base of the plant to prevent mold issues.
Moor Grass Care
One of the most important aspects of moor grass care is water. While the plant may rot out in boggy soils, it needs consistent moisture. Water the grass deeply once per week. Overhead watering may promote rust and other fungal diseases, so it is advised to water from the base of the plant. This is a deciduous grass, which will die back in winter. This means there is no need to cut back the plant. In fact, the spent grass is attractive for nesting material to wild birds and helps form a protective nest around the root zone. Simply rake it away in early spring so new blade emergence is not impeded.
Dividing Moor Grass
Division of ornamental grasses is undertaken to prevent center die out, increase vigor, and best of all, to make more of these attractive ornamentals. Moor grass can be divided every 3 to 4 years. The optimum time for division is late winter to very early spring. Dig out around the root zone and deeply into soil to remove the entire plant. Use a root saw to cut it into 2 or 3 sections. Make sure each has plenty of sprouting leaves and a good healthy clump of roots. Plant each section separately. Keep them watered as the plant sprouts and spreads out new roots. This easy step guarantees healthier grasses and increases the number of the regal moor grass.
How to Grow Moor Grass
Ornamental grass lovers should not pass up the opportunity to acquire autumn moor grass. Also, called purple moor grass, this attractive plant has appeal as a single specimen in a combined planter, an accent in the perennial garden or even perched in the rockery. Moor grasses come in many cultivars and are commercially represented by 12 commonly available names. Each has a slightly different foliage trait, height and inflorescence but the basic mounding habit and fine blades recognize them as part of the family.
Moor grass is seasonally interesting from summer to winter. The plant is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 4 and adaptable to many types of soils as long as they are moist but well draining.
Some partner plants with similar moisture needs to try growing with moor grass are:
Epimediums
Coreopsis
Salix or willow
Evergreen ornamental grasses
The plant produces numerous seeds, so remove the seed head in fall to prevent spread. Spread mulch around the grass to a depth of at least 2 inches of good organic material to prevent weed competitors and conserve moisture. Keep mulch away from direct contact with the base of the plant to prevent mold issues.
Moor Grass Care
One of the most important aspects of moor grass care is water. While the plant may rot out in boggy soils, it needs consistent moisture. Water the grass deeply once per week. Overhead watering may promote rust and other fungal diseases, so it is advised to water from the base of the plant. This is a deciduous grass, which will die back in winter. This means there is no need to cut back the plant. In fact, the spent grass is attractive for nesting material to wild birds and helps form a protective nest around the root zone. Simply rake it away in early spring so new blade emergence is not impeded.
Dividing Moor Grass
Division of ornamental grasses is undertaken to prevent center die out, increase vigor, and best of all, to make more of these attractive ornamentals. Moor grass can be divided every 3 to 4 years. The optimum time for division is late winter to very early spring. Dig out around the root zone and deeply into soil to remove the entire plant. Use a root saw to cut it into 2 or 3 sections. Make sure each has plenty of sprouting leaves and a good healthy clump of roots. Plant each section separately. Keep them watered as the plant sprouts and spreads out new roots. This easy step guarantees healthier grasses and increases the number of the regal moor grass.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Mondo grass is also known as monkey grass. It is an evergreen perennial that makes a great groundcover or standalone grass-like plant. These plants perform well in almost any soil and lighting condition. Mondo grass is a slow growing plant that can be divided to make more of them and requires minimal care once established. A truly attractive and outstanding landscape plant with a multitude of uses, it is well worth the gardener’s time to learn how to grow mondo grass.
Mondo Grass Information
Mondo grass can tolerate almost anything, including deer, but fails without adequate moisture. What is mondo grass? It is not a true grass but does have strappy leaves and a clumping habit. In summer it brightens up the area with lavender or white flowers that develop into glossy black fruit.
Growing mondo grass is easy, as the plant withstands neglect in regions where plentiful moisture is naturally available. Once established, you can pretty much forget about the plant unless you want to go check out its seasonal beauty, or it is time to divide it.
Imagine great grassy tussocks shrunk down to fairly land size and you can envision mondo grass. These small plants grow only 6 to 10 inches tall (15 to 25 cm.) and have a clumping or mounding nature depending upon variety. Ophiopogon japonicus is the scientific name and refers to the plant’s native region of Asia. The components of the name are derived from the Latin words for snake and beard, a reference to the spiky flowers. As a lawn substitute in shady to partially sunny locations, it is a great sod alternative that never needs mowing. Mondo grass spreads by stolons, or underground stems, and can slowly form dense colonies. Leaves are ½ inch wide (1.3 cm.) and glossy green or even variegated.
How to Grow Mondo Grass
Mondo grass care is extremely minimal but you do need to choose the correct site and prepare the bed for best results. Plants are light green in full sun but deeper green in shade. Either location works well provided soil is well draining and free of competitive weeds. You can separate clumps into sections, each with several stolons and plant 4 to 12 inches (10-30 cm.) apart depending on how quickly you want the area to fill in. Dwarf mondo should be planted 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) apart. Cover roots and stolons with loose soil but avoid covering the crown of the plant. Keep soil moderately moist during establishment.
Mondo Grass Care
If you are growing mondo grass as a lawn, there is little you need to maintain it. Remove any weeds as they appear and keep the area moist in the dry season. After winter storms, leaves may be ragged and can be trimmed back a bit for best appearance. Divide clumps every 3 years if grown as standalone plants. Mondo grass needs very little fertilizing. A once annual feeding in spring with a diluted grass feed is sufficient. Any mondo grass information should list its pest and disease issues. Snailsand slugsmay be a problem as can the pest scale. Disease issues are fungal and form during wet, warm periods. Serious damage by any of these is unlikely. There are numerous cultivars from which to choose, with variant flower colors and size. There is even a black-leaved mondo, which is an excellent foil for both green-leaved plants and brightly colored flora.
Mondo Grass Information
Mondo grass can tolerate almost anything, including deer, but fails without adequate moisture. What is mondo grass? It is not a true grass but does have strappy leaves and a clumping habit. In summer it brightens up the area with lavender or white flowers that develop into glossy black fruit.
Growing mondo grass is easy, as the plant withstands neglect in regions where plentiful moisture is naturally available. Once established, you can pretty much forget about the plant unless you want to go check out its seasonal beauty, or it is time to divide it.
Imagine great grassy tussocks shrunk down to fairly land size and you can envision mondo grass. These small plants grow only 6 to 10 inches tall (15 to 25 cm.) and have a clumping or mounding nature depending upon variety. Ophiopogon japonicus is the scientific name and refers to the plant’s native region of Asia. The components of the name are derived from the Latin words for snake and beard, a reference to the spiky flowers. As a lawn substitute in shady to partially sunny locations, it is a great sod alternative that never needs mowing. Mondo grass spreads by stolons, or underground stems, and can slowly form dense colonies. Leaves are ½ inch wide (1.3 cm.) and glossy green or even variegated.
How to Grow Mondo Grass
Mondo grass care is extremely minimal but you do need to choose the correct site and prepare the bed for best results. Plants are light green in full sun but deeper green in shade. Either location works well provided soil is well draining and free of competitive weeds. You can separate clumps into sections, each with several stolons and plant 4 to 12 inches (10-30 cm.) apart depending on how quickly you want the area to fill in. Dwarf mondo should be planted 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) apart. Cover roots and stolons with loose soil but avoid covering the crown of the plant. Keep soil moderately moist during establishment.
Mondo Grass Care
If you are growing mondo grass as a lawn, there is little you need to maintain it. Remove any weeds as they appear and keep the area moist in the dry season. After winter storms, leaves may be ragged and can be trimmed back a bit for best appearance. Divide clumps every 3 years if grown as standalone plants. Mondo grass needs very little fertilizing. A once annual feeding in spring with a diluted grass feed is sufficient. Any mondo grass information should list its pest and disease issues. Snailsand slugsmay be a problem as can the pest scale. Disease issues are fungal and form during wet, warm periods. Serious damage by any of these is unlikely. There are numerous cultivars from which to choose, with variant flower colors and size. There is even a black-leaved mondo, which is an excellent foil for both green-leaved plants and brightly colored flora.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Wild, native grasses are excellent sources to reclaim land, halt soil erosion, provide fodder and habitat for animals, and enhance the natural landscape. Prairie junegrass (Koeleria macrantha) is a widely distributed North American native. Junegrass in landscapes is primarily used as part of green rooftops and in dry, sandy situations. It has excellent drought tolerance and provides food for livestock, elk, deer and antelope. If you want to attract wildlife, you can’t ask for a better easily managed plant.
What is Junegrass?
Prairie junegrass grows natively in most parts of North America. Where does Junegrass grow? It is found from Ontario to British Columbia, south to Delaware, California and Mexico. This hardy, adaptable grass grows in Plains Mountains, meadow foothills and forests. Its primary habitat is open rocky sites. This makes junegrass in landscapes that are challenging a perfect addition.
Junegrass is a perennial, cool season, tufting true grass. It can reach ½ to 2 feet in height (15 to 60 cm.) and has narrow flat leaves. The seeds are in dense spikes which are pale green to light purple. The grass is so adaptable it can thrive in its preferred lightly sandy soils but also heavily compacted soil. This grass flowers earlier than most of the other prairie grasses. Flowers appear in June and July in the U.S., and seeds are produced through September. Prairie junegrass reproduces through its prodigious seed or from tillers. The plant is tolerant of a wide variety of conditions but prefers a sunny, open area with moderate rainfall.
Junegrass Information
In widespread plantings, junegrass comes back well when managed by grazing. It is one of the earliest native grasses to green up in spring and stays green well into fall. The plant doesn’t spread vegetatively but rather by seed. This means junegrass in landscapes does not pose an invasion problem. In the wild, it combines in communities of Columbian, Letterman Needle and Kentucky bluegrasses. The plant is broadly tolerant of cold, heat and drought but does prefer deep to moderately fine textured soil. Not only does the plant provide forage for wild and domestic animals, but the seeds feed small mammals and bird, and provides cover and nesting material.
Growing Junegrass
To sow a stand of junegrass, till the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches (15 cm.). Seed should be stored in a cold, dry location until ready to use. Germination is most responsive in the cool seasons. Sow seeds on the surface of the soil with just a light dusting of soil to protect the tiny seeds from wind. Alternatively, cover the area with a light cotton sheet until germination. Keep the area evenly moist until the seedlings are established. You can also start plants in pots. Water from the bottom when in containers. Space plants 10 to 12 inches (25-30 cm.) apart once they have hardened off. Junegrass does best in full sun but can also tolerate partial shade.
What is Junegrass?
Prairie junegrass grows natively in most parts of North America. Where does Junegrass grow? It is found from Ontario to British Columbia, south to Delaware, California and Mexico. This hardy, adaptable grass grows in Plains Mountains, meadow foothills and forests. Its primary habitat is open rocky sites. This makes junegrass in landscapes that are challenging a perfect addition.
Junegrass is a perennial, cool season, tufting true grass. It can reach ½ to 2 feet in height (15 to 60 cm.) and has narrow flat leaves. The seeds are in dense spikes which are pale green to light purple. The grass is so adaptable it can thrive in its preferred lightly sandy soils but also heavily compacted soil. This grass flowers earlier than most of the other prairie grasses. Flowers appear in June and July in the U.S., and seeds are produced through September. Prairie junegrass reproduces through its prodigious seed or from tillers. The plant is tolerant of a wide variety of conditions but prefers a sunny, open area with moderate rainfall.
Junegrass Information
In widespread plantings, junegrass comes back well when managed by grazing. It is one of the earliest native grasses to green up in spring and stays green well into fall. The plant doesn’t spread vegetatively but rather by seed. This means junegrass in landscapes does not pose an invasion problem. In the wild, it combines in communities of Columbian, Letterman Needle and Kentucky bluegrasses. The plant is broadly tolerant of cold, heat and drought but does prefer deep to moderately fine textured soil. Not only does the plant provide forage for wild and domestic animals, but the seeds feed small mammals and bird, and provides cover and nesting material.
Growing Junegrass
To sow a stand of junegrass, till the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches (15 cm.). Seed should be stored in a cold, dry location until ready to use. Germination is most responsive in the cool seasons. Sow seeds on the surface of the soil with just a light dusting of soil to protect the tiny seeds from wind. Alternatively, cover the area with a light cotton sheet until germination. Keep the area evenly moist until the seedlings are established. You can also start plants in pots. Water from the bottom when in containers. Space plants 10 to 12 inches (25-30 cm.) apart once they have hardened off. Junegrass does best in full sun but can also tolerate partial shade.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Herb growing problems tend to be relatively few as long as you pay attention to a few golden rules. Most herbs are sun loving and require at least six hours each day. Herbs also like well drained soil with a pH of 6 to 7 and amended with some good organic compost. Regular pruning and by virtue of that, removal of any weak or infested growth are the final components to protecting herbs from pests and diseases. That said, there are some common pests and diseases of herbs that may afflict the herb garden.
Protecting Herbs from Pests
The essential fragrant oils of most herbs are a natural repellent to many insects. Despite this, at some time pests like slugs encroach the herb garden and ravage your plants. The good news is that most of these pests are really just that; they do not usually cause severe damage and are mostly a nuisance.
Aphids – Aphids love the tender new leaves of herbs and, in large numbers, may cause curling of the foliage. The resulting honeydew secretion may promote sooty mold as well as attract ants. Aphids are most commonly found among crowded and rapidly growing herbs. Horticultural soaps and neem oil may aid in exterminating these pests. Spider mites – Spider mites prefer hot, dry conditions and are often spotted on the underside of the herb leaves. Protecting the herb garden from these pests is as simple as a strong stream of water aimed at the foliage and regular irrigation. Whiteflies – Whiteflies will also appear on the underside of the leaves.
Leafhoppers – Leafhoppers rarely do much damage but do feed on basil, oregano, and parsley. Leaf miners – Leaf miners will also attack succulent basil, leaving tunneling trails between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Parsley worms – Black swallowtail caterpillars morph into spectacular butterflies. Hence, many gardeners refrain from eliminating them and simply plant plenty of the parsley, dill and fennel these guy love to munch on. Flea beetles – Yet another pest, the flea beetle is again just that, chewing pinprick holes in the leaves of herbs but sustaining no serious damage. Weevils – Weevils, such as the carrot weevil, will feed on parsley roots but inflict no lasting damage. Spittle bugs – And finally, spittle bugs while leaving a rather unsightly spit-like froth on foliage, can easily be washed off with water and cause little damage.
Diseases of Herbs
Very few herbs (mints and lemon grass) thrive in wet soil. Waterlogged soils encourage fungal diseases such as fusarium root rot. Symptoms appear as brown streaks on the herb stems with an end result often of the general collapse of the plant. Rust plagues many members of the mint family and presents itself as rusty orange lesions on the underside of the leaves. Defenses against diseases of herbs are proper growing conditions, sanitation, removal of weak or otherwise infested foliage and regular pruning. Raised beds will foster good drainage and watering in the morning to give the herb plenty of time to dry out will also retard the spread of fungal spores which could result in disease.
Troubleshooting the Herb Garden
The best defense, as they say, is a good offense, so when troubleshooting the herb garden, remember to follow the golden rules as outlined below:
Choose healthy herbs to plant. Plant the healthy herb in the correct environment, either moist and humid or sunny and dry. Do your research and find out the best spot for each type of herb. Do not overcrowd your herb plants. Allow for growth, spread and general aeration between plants. Practice proper irrigation and fertilization. Irrigate and fertilize (preferably with an organic food like compost tea) on a schedule and allow to dry between watering. Also, weed between plants to discourage pests and encourage healthy foliage and root systems. Prune, prune, prune. Prune your herb, or in other words, harvest the herb plant frequently. This will not only automatically prod you to remove any sick foliage and observe any marauding insects for removal, but promote a lusher, bushier specimen. Harvesting will also remove blossoms, which will keep the plant producing since flowering is a signal to the plant that it’s about time to die back for the season. Follow these rules and you will be less likely to resort to chemical controls for your herb garden which in turn would mean you are ingesting chemicals.
Protecting Herbs from Pests
The essential fragrant oils of most herbs are a natural repellent to many insects. Despite this, at some time pests like slugs encroach the herb garden and ravage your plants. The good news is that most of these pests are really just that; they do not usually cause severe damage and are mostly a nuisance.
Aphids – Aphids love the tender new leaves of herbs and, in large numbers, may cause curling of the foliage. The resulting honeydew secretion may promote sooty mold as well as attract ants. Aphids are most commonly found among crowded and rapidly growing herbs. Horticultural soaps and neem oil may aid in exterminating these pests. Spider mites – Spider mites prefer hot, dry conditions and are often spotted on the underside of the herb leaves. Protecting the herb garden from these pests is as simple as a strong stream of water aimed at the foliage and regular irrigation. Whiteflies – Whiteflies will also appear on the underside of the leaves.
Leafhoppers – Leafhoppers rarely do much damage but do feed on basil, oregano, and parsley. Leaf miners – Leaf miners will also attack succulent basil, leaving tunneling trails between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Parsley worms – Black swallowtail caterpillars morph into spectacular butterflies. Hence, many gardeners refrain from eliminating them and simply plant plenty of the parsley, dill and fennel these guy love to munch on. Flea beetles – Yet another pest, the flea beetle is again just that, chewing pinprick holes in the leaves of herbs but sustaining no serious damage. Weevils – Weevils, such as the carrot weevil, will feed on parsley roots but inflict no lasting damage. Spittle bugs – And finally, spittle bugs while leaving a rather unsightly spit-like froth on foliage, can easily be washed off with water and cause little damage.
Diseases of Herbs
Very few herbs (mints and lemon grass) thrive in wet soil. Waterlogged soils encourage fungal diseases such as fusarium root rot. Symptoms appear as brown streaks on the herb stems with an end result often of the general collapse of the plant. Rust plagues many members of the mint family and presents itself as rusty orange lesions on the underside of the leaves. Defenses against diseases of herbs are proper growing conditions, sanitation, removal of weak or otherwise infested foliage and regular pruning. Raised beds will foster good drainage and watering in the morning to give the herb plenty of time to dry out will also retard the spread of fungal spores which could result in disease.
Troubleshooting the Herb Garden
The best defense, as they say, is a good offense, so when troubleshooting the herb garden, remember to follow the golden rules as outlined below:
Choose healthy herbs to plant. Plant the healthy herb in the correct environment, either moist and humid or sunny and dry. Do your research and find out the best spot for each type of herb. Do not overcrowd your herb plants. Allow for growth, spread and general aeration between plants. Practice proper irrigation and fertilization. Irrigate and fertilize (preferably with an organic food like compost tea) on a schedule and allow to dry between watering. Also, weed between plants to discourage pests and encourage healthy foliage and root systems. Prune, prune, prune. Prune your herb, or in other words, harvest the herb plant frequently. This will not only automatically prod you to remove any sick foliage and observe any marauding insects for removal, but promote a lusher, bushier specimen. Harvesting will also remove blossoms, which will keep the plant producing since flowering is a signal to the plant that it’s about time to die back for the season. Follow these rules and you will be less likely to resort to chemical controls for your herb garden which in turn would mean you are ingesting chemicals.
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