文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Delphinium
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Delphiniums are perennials grown for their showy spikes of colorful summer flowers in gorgeous shades of blue, pink, white, and purple. They are popular in cottage-style gardens and cutting gardens.
Delphiniums are a favorite of many gardeners, but can sometimes be a challenge. They prefer moist, cool summers and do not fare well in hot, dry weather. The plants also dislike sudden wind or rain.
Except for the dwarf perennials, most delphiniums need staking.
PLANTING
Grow in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun to light shade, with shelter from strong winds.
Plant in the spring. Prepare the soil, mixing in 2 to 4 inches of compost.
Delphinium is a genus consisting of over 300 species—some are annuals, others are biennials or perennials. Some grow easily from seed, others don’t.
Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant’s container. When planting, ensure that the top of the root ball is level with the soil.
In the spring, broadcast lime, wood ashes, or a mixture of the two over this alkaline-loving perennial. Learn more about soil amendments.
CARE
Insert supports no later than midspring or when the plants reach 12 inches high. Stake the low-growing perennials with twiggy, brushwood support. The taller, large-flowered delphiniums need sturdy stakes.
Soil should not dry out. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
For good-quality flower spikes, thin shoots when 3 inches high; leave a minimum of 2 or 3 shoots on young plants, and 5 to 7 shoots on well-established ones.
In growth, water all plants freely, applying a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks.
Deadhead by cutting spent flower spikes back to small, flowering side shoots.
After delphiniums have finished blooming, cut flower stalks to the ground, and new, though smaller, flower stalks will develop. The flowers will survive the coming cold days and even light frosts. (See local frost dates.)
If delphiniums need to be divided in the spring, remove and replant the new little plants growing around the outside of the clump. Discard the hard old heart.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to slugs and snails as well as cyclamen mites.
Powdery mildew, Southern blight, bacterial and fungal spots, gray mold, crown and root rot, white rot, rust, white smut, leaf smut, and damping off occur.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Alkaline/Basic
FLOWER COLOR: BluePinkPurpleWhite
BLOOM TIME: Summer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Delphiniums are perennials grown for their showy spikes of colorful summer flowers in gorgeous shades of blue, pink, white, and purple. They are popular in cottage-style gardens and cutting gardens.
Delphiniums are a favorite of many gardeners, but can sometimes be a challenge. They prefer moist, cool summers and do not fare well in hot, dry weather. The plants also dislike sudden wind or rain.
Except for the dwarf perennials, most delphiniums need staking.
PLANTING
Grow in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun to light shade, with shelter from strong winds.
Plant in the spring. Prepare the soil, mixing in 2 to 4 inches of compost.
Delphinium is a genus consisting of over 300 species—some are annuals, others are biennials or perennials. Some grow easily from seed, others don’t.
Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant’s container. When planting, ensure that the top of the root ball is level with the soil.
In the spring, broadcast lime, wood ashes, or a mixture of the two over this alkaline-loving perennial. Learn more about soil amendments.
CARE
Insert supports no later than midspring or when the plants reach 12 inches high. Stake the low-growing perennials with twiggy, brushwood support. The taller, large-flowered delphiniums need sturdy stakes.
Soil should not dry out. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
For good-quality flower spikes, thin shoots when 3 inches high; leave a minimum of 2 or 3 shoots on young plants, and 5 to 7 shoots on well-established ones.
In growth, water all plants freely, applying a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks.
Deadhead by cutting spent flower spikes back to small, flowering side shoots.
After delphiniums have finished blooming, cut flower stalks to the ground, and new, though smaller, flower stalks will develop. The flowers will survive the coming cold days and even light frosts. (See local frost dates.)
If delphiniums need to be divided in the spring, remove and replant the new little plants growing around the outside of the clump. Discard the hard old heart.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to slugs and snails as well as cyclamen mites.
Powdery mildew, Southern blight, bacterial and fungal spots, gray mold, crown and root rot, white rot, rust, white smut, leaf smut, and damping off occur.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Dahlia
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Dahlias are colorful spiky flowers which generally bloom from midsummer to first frost, when many other plants are past their best.
In the cold climates of North America, dahlias are known as tuberous-rooted tender perennials, grown from small, brown, biennial tubers planted in the spring.
Dahlias come in a rainbow of colors and even range in size, from the giant 10-inch “dinnerplate” blooms to the 2-inch lollipop-style pompons. Most varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall.
Though not well suited to extremely hot and humid climates, such as much of Texas and Florida, dahlias brighten up any sunny garden with a growing season that’s at least 120 days long. Dahlias thrive in the cool, moist climates of the Pacific Coast, where blooms may be an inch larger and deeper.
PLANTING
Don’t be in a hurry to plant; dahlias will struggle in cold soil. Ground temperature should reach 60°F. Wait until all danger of spring frost is past before planting. (We plant them a little after the tomato plants go in.)
Select a planting site with full sun. Dahlias grow more blooms with 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. They love the morning sunlight best. Choose a location with a bit of protection from the wind.
Dahlias thrive in rich, well-drained soil. The pH level of your soil should be 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic.If you have a heavier soil, add in sand, peat moss or bagged steer manure to lighten and loosen the soil texture for better drainage.
Bedding dahlias can be planted 9 to 12 inches apart. The smaller flowering types, which are usually about three feet tall, should be spaced two feet apart. The taller, larger-flowered dahlias should be spaced three feet apart.
The planting hole should be slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and incorporate some compost or sphagnum peat moss into the soil. It also helps to mix a handful of bonemeal into the planting hole. Otherwise, do not fertilize at planting.
Avoid dahlia tubers that appear wrinkled or rotten. A little bit of green growth is a good sign. Don’t break or cut individual dahlia tubers as you would potatoes.
Plant them whole, with the growing points, or “eyes,” facing up, about 6 to 8 inches deep. The crowns should be just above soil level.
Tall, large-flowered cultivars will require support. Place stakes (five to six feet tall) around plants at planting time and tie stems to them as the plants grow.
Large dahlias and those grown solely for cut flowers are best grown in a dedicated plot in rows on their own, free from competition from other plants. Dahlias of medium to low height mix well with other summer flowers. If you only have a vegetable garden, it’s the perfect place to put a row of dahlias for cutting (and something to look at while you’re weeding!).
Dahlias start blooming about 8 weeks after planting, starting in mid-July.
Some gardeners start tubers indoors a month ahead to get a jump on the season.
Do not water the tubers right after planting; this encourages rot. Wait until the sprouts have appeared above the soil to water.
Do not cover the dahlias with mulch or bark or sprouting is more challenging; apply slug and snail bait to avoid garden pests.
CARE
There’s no need to water the soil until the dahlia plants appear; in fact, overwatering can cause tubers to rot. After dahlias are established, provide a deep watering 2 to 3 times a week for at least 30 minutes with a sprinkler (and more in dry, hot climates).
Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer (similar to what you would use for vegetables) such as a 5-10-10 or 10-20-20. Fertilize after sprouting and then every 3 to 4 weeks from mid-summer until early Autumn. Do NOT overfertilize, especially with nitrogen, or you risk small/no blooms, weak tubers, or rot.
Like many large-flower hybrid plants, the big dahlias may need extra attention before or after rain, when open blooms tend to fill up with water or take a beating from the wind.
Bedding dahlias need no staking or disbudding; simply pinch out the growing point to encourage bushiness, and deadhead as the flowers fade. Pinch the center shoot just above the third set of leaves.
For the taller dahlias, insert stakes at planting time. Moderately pinch, disbranch, and disbud, and deadhead to produce a showy display for 3 months or more.
Dahlia foliage blackens with the first frost.
Dahlias are hearty to zone 8 and can be cut back and left in the ground to overwinter; cover with a deep, dry mulch. Elsewhere, the tuberous roots should be lifted and stored during the winter. (Some readers find, however, that dahlias will survive in zone 7 if the winter isn’t too severe.)
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails: Bait 2 weeks after planting and continue to bait throughout the season.
Mites: To avoid spider mites, spray beginning in late July and continue to spray through September. Speak to your garden center about recommended sprays for your area.
Earwigs and Cucumber Beetle: They can eat the petals though they do not hurt the plant itself.
Aphids
Deer: Find a list of deer-resistant plants to grow around your dahlias.
Powdery Mildew: This commonly shows up in the fall. You can preventatively spray before this issue arises from late July to August.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkPurpleRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Dahlias are colorful spiky flowers which generally bloom from midsummer to first frost, when many other plants are past their best.
In the cold climates of North America, dahlias are known as tuberous-rooted tender perennials, grown from small, brown, biennial tubers planted in the spring.
Dahlias come in a rainbow of colors and even range in size, from the giant 10-inch “dinnerplate” blooms to the 2-inch lollipop-style pompons. Most varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall.
Though not well suited to extremely hot and humid climates, such as much of Texas and Florida, dahlias brighten up any sunny garden with a growing season that’s at least 120 days long. Dahlias thrive in the cool, moist climates of the Pacific Coast, where blooms may be an inch larger and deeper.
PLANTING
Don’t be in a hurry to plant; dahlias will struggle in cold soil. Ground temperature should reach 60°F. Wait until all danger of spring frost is past before planting. (We plant them a little after the tomato plants go in.)
Select a planting site with full sun. Dahlias grow more blooms with 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. They love the morning sunlight best. Choose a location with a bit of protection from the wind.
Dahlias thrive in rich, well-drained soil. The pH level of your soil should be 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic.If you have a heavier soil, add in sand, peat moss or bagged steer manure to lighten and loosen the soil texture for better drainage.
Bedding dahlias can be planted 9 to 12 inches apart. The smaller flowering types, which are usually about three feet tall, should be spaced two feet apart. The taller, larger-flowered dahlias should be spaced three feet apart.
The planting hole should be slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and incorporate some compost or sphagnum peat moss into the soil. It also helps to mix a handful of bonemeal into the planting hole. Otherwise, do not fertilize at planting.
Avoid dahlia tubers that appear wrinkled or rotten. A little bit of green growth is a good sign. Don’t break or cut individual dahlia tubers as you would potatoes.
Plant them whole, with the growing points, or “eyes,” facing up, about 6 to 8 inches deep. The crowns should be just above soil level.
Tall, large-flowered cultivars will require support. Place stakes (five to six feet tall) around plants at planting time and tie stems to them as the plants grow.
Large dahlias and those grown solely for cut flowers are best grown in a dedicated plot in rows on their own, free from competition from other plants. Dahlias of medium to low height mix well with other summer flowers. If you only have a vegetable garden, it’s the perfect place to put a row of dahlias for cutting (and something to look at while you’re weeding!).
Dahlias start blooming about 8 weeks after planting, starting in mid-July.
Some gardeners start tubers indoors a month ahead to get a jump on the season.
Do not water the tubers right after planting; this encourages rot. Wait until the sprouts have appeared above the soil to water.
Do not cover the dahlias with mulch or bark or sprouting is more challenging; apply slug and snail bait to avoid garden pests.
CARE
There’s no need to water the soil until the dahlia plants appear; in fact, overwatering can cause tubers to rot. After dahlias are established, provide a deep watering 2 to 3 times a week for at least 30 minutes with a sprinkler (and more in dry, hot climates).
Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer (similar to what you would use for vegetables) such as a 5-10-10 or 10-20-20. Fertilize after sprouting and then every 3 to 4 weeks from mid-summer until early Autumn. Do NOT overfertilize, especially with nitrogen, or you risk small/no blooms, weak tubers, or rot.
Like many large-flower hybrid plants, the big dahlias may need extra attention before or after rain, when open blooms tend to fill up with water or take a beating from the wind.
Bedding dahlias need no staking or disbudding; simply pinch out the growing point to encourage bushiness, and deadhead as the flowers fade. Pinch the center shoot just above the third set of leaves.
For the taller dahlias, insert stakes at planting time. Moderately pinch, disbranch, and disbud, and deadhead to produce a showy display for 3 months or more.
Dahlia foliage blackens with the first frost.
Dahlias are hearty to zone 8 and can be cut back and left in the ground to overwinter; cover with a deep, dry mulch. Elsewhere, the tuberous roots should be lifted and stored during the winter. (Some readers find, however, that dahlias will survive in zone 7 if the winter isn’t too severe.)
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs and snails: Bait 2 weeks after planting and continue to bait throughout the season.
Mites: To avoid spider mites, spray beginning in late July and continue to spray through September. Speak to your garden center about recommended sprays for your area.
Earwigs and Cucumber Beetle: They can eat the petals though they do not hurt the plant itself.
Aphids
Deer: Find a list of deer-resistant plants to grow around your dahlias.
Powdery Mildew: This commonly shows up in the fall. You can preventatively spray before this issue arises from late July to August.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
PLANT TYPE: FlowerSUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Sunny, yellow daffodils are a wonderful sign that spring has arrived! Plant the bulbs in the fall and they will bloom in late winter or early spring. Daffodils are hardy and easy perennials to grow in most areas in North America, except Southern Florida.
Their attractive flowers usually bear showy yellow or white flowers with six petals and a trumpet-shape central corona. Leafless stems bear between 1 and 20 flowers; sometimes the flowers need to be staked so that they don’t weigh down the stems.
Daffodils are suitable for planting between shrubs or in a border, or for forcing blooms indoors. They also look wonderful in a woodland garden and in large groves. You’ll find that many gardeners plant the bulbs not just by the dozens but by the hundreds! Their flowers are excellent for cutting.
PLANTING
Select a site that offers full sun or part shade. Most daffodils tolerate a range of soils but grow best in moderately fertile, well-drained soil that is moist during the growing season. Many of the popular species prefer neutral to acidic soils, but some prefer slightly alkaline soils, so consult your nursery.
Select high-quality daffodil bulbs that have not dried out. The larger the bulb, the better.
Plant bulbs in the fall—about 2 to 4 weeks before the ground freezes. Get tips on dates for planting fall bulbs.
Plant bulbs 1-½ to 5 times their own depth. Where winters are severe, make sure there is at least 3 inches of soil covering the bulb.
Daffodils will tolerate some crowding but prefer to be spaced 3 to 6 inches apart.
It may help to sprinkle a little bulb fertilizer in the hole during planting.
Resist the temptation to uncover spring-flowering plants such as daffodils and tulips. You can loosen mulch, but the shoots will still benefit from protection against cold, drying winds.
Get more tips for growing bulbs.
CARE
Apply a low-nitrogen, high-potash fertilizer after flowering if bulbs are not performing.
Water late-flowering daffodils in dry spring weather (flowers may abort in dry conditions).
Deadhead plants as flowers fade (for neater garden appearance) and allow leaves to remain for at least 6 weeks.
Lift and divide the clumps when flowering becomes sparse or the clumps congested.
After they bloom in the spring, allow the plants to grow until they die off. They need time after blooming to store energy in the bulbs for next year.
To remove the dead plants, either snip them off at the base, or twist the leaves while pulling lightly.
Once daffodils and tulips have gone by, add bonemeal to the soil for next year’s blooms.
PESTS/DISEASES
Daffodils are both deer-resistant and rodent-proof, as these animals do not like the taste of the bulbs in the Narcissus family.
Daffodils are also poisonous to pets, so make sure your animals don’t munch on them.
The most common problems include large narcissus bulb fly, bulb scale mite, narcissus nematode, slugs, narcissus basal rot and other fungal infections, and viruses.
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Spring
Sunny, yellow daffodils are a wonderful sign that spring has arrived! Plant the bulbs in the fall and they will bloom in late winter or early spring. Daffodils are hardy and easy perennials to grow in most areas in North America, except Southern Florida.
Their attractive flowers usually bear showy yellow or white flowers with six petals and a trumpet-shape central corona. Leafless stems bear between 1 and 20 flowers; sometimes the flowers need to be staked so that they don’t weigh down the stems.
Daffodils are suitable for planting between shrubs or in a border, or for forcing blooms indoors. They also look wonderful in a woodland garden and in large groves. You’ll find that many gardeners plant the bulbs not just by the dozens but by the hundreds! Their flowers are excellent for cutting.
PLANTING
Select a site that offers full sun or part shade. Most daffodils tolerate a range of soils but grow best in moderately fertile, well-drained soil that is moist during the growing season. Many of the popular species prefer neutral to acidic soils, but some prefer slightly alkaline soils, so consult your nursery.
Select high-quality daffodil bulbs that have not dried out. The larger the bulb, the better.
Plant bulbs in the fall—about 2 to 4 weeks before the ground freezes. Get tips on dates for planting fall bulbs.
Plant bulbs 1-½ to 5 times their own depth. Where winters are severe, make sure there is at least 3 inches of soil covering the bulb.
Daffodils will tolerate some crowding but prefer to be spaced 3 to 6 inches apart.
It may help to sprinkle a little bulb fertilizer in the hole during planting.
Resist the temptation to uncover spring-flowering plants such as daffodils and tulips. You can loosen mulch, but the shoots will still benefit from protection against cold, drying winds.
Get more tips for growing bulbs.
CARE
Apply a low-nitrogen, high-potash fertilizer after flowering if bulbs are not performing.
Water late-flowering daffodils in dry spring weather (flowers may abort in dry conditions).
Deadhead plants as flowers fade (for neater garden appearance) and allow leaves to remain for at least 6 weeks.
Lift and divide the clumps when flowering becomes sparse or the clumps congested.
After they bloom in the spring, allow the plants to grow until they die off. They need time after blooming to store energy in the bulbs for next year.
To remove the dead plants, either snip them off at the base, or twist the leaves while pulling lightly.
Once daffodils and tulips have gone by, add bonemeal to the soil for next year’s blooms.
PESTS/DISEASES
Daffodils are both deer-resistant and rodent-proof, as these animals do not like the taste of the bulbs in the Narcissus family.
Daffodils are also poisonous to pets, so make sure your animals don’t munch on them.
The most common problems include large narcissus bulb fly, bulb scale mite, narcissus nematode, slugs, narcissus basal rot and other fungal infections, and viruses.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Crocus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy
FLOWER COLOR: BlueOrangePinkPurpleWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringWinter
When it seems like winter will never lose its icy grip, the dainty goblet-shaped crocus pushes through the snow to put on a show of colorful revival. If you are not planting this perennial bulb, you are missing an early season of delight.
From snow crocuses (the first to bloom) to giant Dutch crocuses, all just 2 to 4 inches tall, these blooms offer a variety in color (pinks, reds, oranges, yellows, purples, blues, and more) that stand out against the bleak late-winter landscape. Many have strong perfumes that lure bees out of their hives in February or March.
Small bulbs like crocus not only provide winter garden color, but they naturalize, meaning that they spread and come back year after year—with minimum care—for an ever-larger display. As a bonus, deer, squirrels, and rabbits rarely bother early little bulbs.
PLANTING
Before the ground freezes in the fall, early bulbs can be planted most anywhere, except in the dense shade on the north side of buildings.
Ideally, plant crocus corms 6 to 8 weeks before a hard frost is expected and when soils are below 60 degrees F. This is usually during September and October in the North, and October and November in the South.
Make sure the soil drains well, because bulbs will rot in soggy ground.
Work in organic matter such as compost, peat or a substitute, such as shredded leaves to a depth of at least 10 inches.
Plant crocus bulbs 3 to 4 inches deep (with the pointy end up). After planting, water well.
Plant bulbs in groups or clusters rather than spacing them in a single line along a walkway or border. Single flowers get lost in the landscape.Plant a few inches apart, and plant in groups of 10 or more.
Consider planting crocuses in lawns and meadows where they can form carpets, or mass them in the front of flower beds along the edge.
Plant taller bulbs and spring-flowering shrubs behind the early bulbs for color contrast.
CARE
Apply a balanced fertilizer in early autumn if your spring is short and the days heat up fast; or, apply fertilizer after bulbs flower if your spring is long and temperate; bulbs will have a chance to use the extra nutrients to produce bigger carbohydrate stores.
Through the autumn, keep crocus beds watered if weather gets dry but do not waterlog. Cover the beds with mulch before the winter.
In late February, remove mulches from snowdrops and crocuses so the shoots can come through.
In February and March, keep plastic milk jugs or other coverings on hand to protect the flowers of crocuses and other early bloomers against the return of severe weather.
If you have crocuses growing in your lawn in mid-Spring, don't mow until their leaves have died down.
PESTS/DISEASES
Mice, voles, and squirrels may feed on the corms. If they are a problem, consider planting crocus bulbs in buried wire cages.
Birds sometimes pick off the flowers.
Corms in storage are prone to rots and molds.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy
FLOWER COLOR: BlueOrangePinkPurpleWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringWinter
When it seems like winter will never lose its icy grip, the dainty goblet-shaped crocus pushes through the snow to put on a show of colorful revival. If you are not planting this perennial bulb, you are missing an early season of delight.
From snow crocuses (the first to bloom) to giant Dutch crocuses, all just 2 to 4 inches tall, these blooms offer a variety in color (pinks, reds, oranges, yellows, purples, blues, and more) that stand out against the bleak late-winter landscape. Many have strong perfumes that lure bees out of their hives in February or March.
Small bulbs like crocus not only provide winter garden color, but they naturalize, meaning that they spread and come back year after year—with minimum care—for an ever-larger display. As a bonus, deer, squirrels, and rabbits rarely bother early little bulbs.
PLANTING
Before the ground freezes in the fall, early bulbs can be planted most anywhere, except in the dense shade on the north side of buildings.
Ideally, plant crocus corms 6 to 8 weeks before a hard frost is expected and when soils are below 60 degrees F. This is usually during September and October in the North, and October and November in the South.
Make sure the soil drains well, because bulbs will rot in soggy ground.
Work in organic matter such as compost, peat or a substitute, such as shredded leaves to a depth of at least 10 inches.
Plant crocus bulbs 3 to 4 inches deep (with the pointy end up). After planting, water well.
Plant bulbs in groups or clusters rather than spacing them in a single line along a walkway or border. Single flowers get lost in the landscape.Plant a few inches apart, and plant in groups of 10 or more.
Consider planting crocuses in lawns and meadows where they can form carpets, or mass them in the front of flower beds along the edge.
Plant taller bulbs and spring-flowering shrubs behind the early bulbs for color contrast.
CARE
Apply a balanced fertilizer in early autumn if your spring is short and the days heat up fast; or, apply fertilizer after bulbs flower if your spring is long and temperate; bulbs will have a chance to use the extra nutrients to produce bigger carbohydrate stores.
Through the autumn, keep crocus beds watered if weather gets dry but do not waterlog. Cover the beds with mulch before the winter.
In late February, remove mulches from snowdrops and crocuses so the shoots can come through.
In February and March, keep plastic milk jugs or other coverings on hand to protect the flowers of crocuses and other early bloomers against the return of severe weather.
If you have crocuses growing in your lawn in mid-Spring, don't mow until their leaves have died down.
PESTS/DISEASES
Mice, voles, and squirrels may feed on the corms. If they are a problem, consider planting crocus bulbs in buried wire cages.
Birds sometimes pick off the flowers.
Corms in storage are prone to rots and molds.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cosmos
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
Cosmos are annuals, grown for their showy flowers. The flowerheads may be bowl– or open cup–shaped and sit atop long stems. Here’s how to grow cosmos flowers in your garden.
Cosmos are easy to grow and make good border or container plants. Cosmos flowers make for good decorations in flower arrangements and also attract birds, bees, and butterflies to your garden.
Cosmos produce 3- to 5-inch daisy-like flowers in various colors, including pink, orange, red and yellow, white, and maroon. These beautiful plants can reach 6 feet tall.
PLANTING
If you want a head start, you can plant cosmos indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost in trays or pots with a good seed-starting mixture. Seedlings grow fast, so move them into 5-inch pots as soon as they’re 3 or 4 inches tall.
Plant seeds in moist, well-drained soil about ¼-inch deep and 12–18 inches apart after the danger of frost has passed. You can also plant transplants instead of seeds. These also like soil that is not too rich, as rich soil will encourage foliage at the expense of bloom.
Cosmos flowers can tolerate warm, dry weather.
Depending on the type of flower, cosmos can grow anywhere between 18–60 inches tall.
If you are growing cosmos from seeds, be mindful that it takes about 7 weeks to first bloom. After that, though, your flowers should continue to bloom until the next frost.
If you let the spiky-brown seed heads blow away during the fall, cosmos might sow themselves throughout your garden.
CARE
In order to prolong flowering, you should deadhead the plants (remove the dead/faded flowers). This speeds up flower development and aids branching.
Because some of these plants can grow really tall, staking may be necessary. Offer them protection from strong winds, encourage balanced branching by pinching out central shoots or stem tips, or stake them. Growing them against a fence can also provide the necessary support.
Water regularly, but make sure you don’t over-water the plants. Over-watering and over-fertilization can lead to plants with fewer flowers. Cosmos can tolerate dry soil, even in a hot, arid, sunbaked spot.
Cosmos beds may become weedy due to the fact that they self-seed, so remember to check them.
PESTS/DISEASES
Stem canker
Powdery mildew
Gray mold
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts BirdsAttracts Butterflies
Cosmos are annuals, grown for their showy flowers. The flowerheads may be bowl– or open cup–shaped and sit atop long stems. Here’s how to grow cosmos flowers in your garden.
Cosmos are easy to grow and make good border or container plants. Cosmos flowers make for good decorations in flower arrangements and also attract birds, bees, and butterflies to your garden.
Cosmos produce 3- to 5-inch daisy-like flowers in various colors, including pink, orange, red and yellow, white, and maroon. These beautiful plants can reach 6 feet tall.
PLANTING
If you want a head start, you can plant cosmos indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost in trays or pots with a good seed-starting mixture. Seedlings grow fast, so move them into 5-inch pots as soon as they’re 3 or 4 inches tall.
Plant seeds in moist, well-drained soil about ¼-inch deep and 12–18 inches apart after the danger of frost has passed. You can also plant transplants instead of seeds. These also like soil that is not too rich, as rich soil will encourage foliage at the expense of bloom.
Cosmos flowers can tolerate warm, dry weather.
Depending on the type of flower, cosmos can grow anywhere between 18–60 inches tall.
If you are growing cosmos from seeds, be mindful that it takes about 7 weeks to first bloom. After that, though, your flowers should continue to bloom until the next frost.
If you let the spiky-brown seed heads blow away during the fall, cosmos might sow themselves throughout your garden.
CARE
In order to prolong flowering, you should deadhead the plants (remove the dead/faded flowers). This speeds up flower development and aids branching.
Because some of these plants can grow really tall, staking may be necessary. Offer them protection from strong winds, encourage balanced branching by pinching out central shoots or stem tips, or stake them. Growing them against a fence can also provide the necessary support.
Water regularly, but make sure you don’t over-water the plants. Over-watering and over-fertilization can lead to plants with fewer flowers. Cosmos can tolerate dry soil, even in a hot, arid, sunbaked spot.
Cosmos beds may become weedy due to the fact that they self-seed, so remember to check them.
PESTS/DISEASES
Stem canker
Powdery mildew
Gray mold
Aphids
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Echinacea
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Purple coneflowers, also known as Echinacea, are attractive and rugged flowers that draw butterflies and songbirds to the garden! Here’s how to grow coneflowers.
Bright and colorful, these perennials are daisy-like with raised centers, and it’s the seeds found in the dried flower heads that attract birds as well as butterflies.
They tend to bloom midsummer, are relatively drought-tolerant, and can take the heat! Coneflowers also make great cut flowers!
PLANTING
Loosen the soil in your garden using a garden fork or tiller to 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. (Learn more about preparing soil for planting.)
Plant the seeds in the spring in humus-rich, well-drained soil about 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the type, in full sun. Coneflowers can tolerate some shade.
If you are moving a potted plant outside from inside, dig a hole about twice the pot’s diameter and carefully place the plant in the soil. Bury the plant to the top of the root ball, but make sure the root ball is level with the soil surface. Water it thoroughly.
CARE
In the spring, put a thin layer of compost around the plants, then a 2–inch layer of mulch to help keep the plants moist and prevent weeds.
If you receive less than an inch of rain a week, water your plants regularly during the summer.
If your plants are floppy, cut them to the ground after they flower.
Remember to cut off the dead/faded flowers to prolong the blooming season and prevent excessive self-seeding. To attract birds, keep the late-season flowers on the plants to mature.
Divide your plants into clumps every 3 to 4 years in spring or autumn, although coneflowers do not like excessive disturbance.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf miners
Powdery mildew
Bacterial spots
Gray mold
Vine weevils
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Purple coneflowers, also known as Echinacea, are attractive and rugged flowers that draw butterflies and songbirds to the garden! Here’s how to grow coneflowers.
Bright and colorful, these perennials are daisy-like with raised centers, and it’s the seeds found in the dried flower heads that attract birds as well as butterflies.
They tend to bloom midsummer, are relatively drought-tolerant, and can take the heat! Coneflowers also make great cut flowers!
PLANTING
Loosen the soil in your garden using a garden fork or tiller to 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. (Learn more about preparing soil for planting.)
Plant the seeds in the spring in humus-rich, well-drained soil about 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the type, in full sun. Coneflowers can tolerate some shade.
If you are moving a potted plant outside from inside, dig a hole about twice the pot’s diameter and carefully place the plant in the soil. Bury the plant to the top of the root ball, but make sure the root ball is level with the soil surface. Water it thoroughly.
CARE
In the spring, put a thin layer of compost around the plants, then a 2–inch layer of mulch to help keep the plants moist and prevent weeds.
If you receive less than an inch of rain a week, water your plants regularly during the summer.
If your plants are floppy, cut them to the ground after they flower.
Remember to cut off the dead/faded flowers to prolong the blooming season and prevent excessive self-seeding. To attract birds, keep the late-season flowers on the plants to mature.
Divide your plants into clumps every 3 to 4 years in spring or autumn, although coneflowers do not like excessive disturbance.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf miners
Powdery mildew
Bacterial spots
Gray mold
Vine weevils
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Canna x generalis
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyClayLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Cannas are among the most colorful summer bulbs—as flamboyant as their tropical American ancestry—with ruffled spikes tapering to refined buds.
hese perennials come in a vast variety of color and boast immense, often-veined, paddle-shaped leaves and sheathing leafstalks in shades of green or bronze.
With their great reedy canes and palmy foliage, canna lilies would be magnificent even if they never bloomed. However, they keep blossoming from late spring or early summer to frost.
Turn-of-the-century gardeners so loved cannas that they grew them from seed, but this isn’t easy; better to leave propagation to experts and buy the tubers.
PLANTING
Exotic, tropical creatures, cannas need lots of sunshine and fertile, moist soil—but you don’t have to pamper them.
Cannas can be started in the house in small pots if your gardening season is short.
Where not hardy, plant outdoors in early summer—around the same time you’d put in tomato plants.
To plant, loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Dig a hole 2 to 3 inches deep and set the rhizome in the hole, eyes up.
Cover with soil and tamp firmly. Water thoroughly.
Space rhizomes 1 to 4 feet apart.
If you grow from seed, note that the germination rate is low and the seeds need to be filed or given an acid bath to break down their hard coat.
CARE
Cannas do best with a good supply of water, so water the plants during the summer if the rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Water freely in a dry spell.
Keep a thin layer of mulch around cannas to help retain moisture as well.
Stake tall varieties if needed.
As flowers fade, deadhead to promote continued flowering.
After the flower stem has been deadheaded several times and is no longer producing flowers, cut the flower stem and any attached foliage to the ground, as this can help nearby cannas get more light and flower themselves. (If you prefer, just cut the stem back to the foliage, which will last until the first frost.)
After autumn frost blackens the foliage, remove the stems and leaves. See your local frost dates.
Cannas are winter hardy in zones 7 to 10. Otherwise, you need to lift the rhizomes for winter storage. Store in barely-moist peat or leaf mold in frost-free conditions. Space rhizomes so that they are not touching. See more details below.
In the deep South, let cannas grow without moving them, until the clumps grow very matted. Every 3 to 4 years in the winter, dig up the clumps, separate the roots, and plant them in well-enriched soil.
Some gardeners as low as zone 7 have reported that their cannas are getting through the winter without being dug up; just be sure to protect the tubers with a heavy layer of mulch.
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs, snails, spider mites, and caterpillars may be problems.
Rust, fungal leaf spot, and bacterial blight are common.
Bean yellow mosaic and tomato spotted wilt viruses can occur.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyClayLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkRedWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Cannas are among the most colorful summer bulbs—as flamboyant as their tropical American ancestry—with ruffled spikes tapering to refined buds.
hese perennials come in a vast variety of color and boast immense, often-veined, paddle-shaped leaves and sheathing leafstalks in shades of green or bronze.
With their great reedy canes and palmy foliage, canna lilies would be magnificent even if they never bloomed. However, they keep blossoming from late spring or early summer to frost.
Turn-of-the-century gardeners so loved cannas that they grew them from seed, but this isn’t easy; better to leave propagation to experts and buy the tubers.
PLANTING
Exotic, tropical creatures, cannas need lots of sunshine and fertile, moist soil—but you don’t have to pamper them.
Cannas can be started in the house in small pots if your gardening season is short.
Where not hardy, plant outdoors in early summer—around the same time you’d put in tomato plants.
To plant, loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
Dig a hole 2 to 3 inches deep and set the rhizome in the hole, eyes up.
Cover with soil and tamp firmly. Water thoroughly.
Space rhizomes 1 to 4 feet apart.
If you grow from seed, note that the germination rate is low and the seeds need to be filed or given an acid bath to break down their hard coat.
CARE
Cannas do best with a good supply of water, so water the plants during the summer if the rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Water freely in a dry spell.
Keep a thin layer of mulch around cannas to help retain moisture as well.
Stake tall varieties if needed.
As flowers fade, deadhead to promote continued flowering.
After the flower stem has been deadheaded several times and is no longer producing flowers, cut the flower stem and any attached foliage to the ground, as this can help nearby cannas get more light and flower themselves. (If you prefer, just cut the stem back to the foliage, which will last until the first frost.)
After autumn frost blackens the foliage, remove the stems and leaves. See your local frost dates.
Cannas are winter hardy in zones 7 to 10. Otherwise, you need to lift the rhizomes for winter storage. Store in barely-moist peat or leaf mold in frost-free conditions. Space rhizomes so that they are not touching. See more details below.
In the deep South, let cannas grow without moving them, until the clumps grow very matted. Every 3 to 4 years in the winter, dig up the clumps, separate the roots, and plant them in well-enriched soil.
Some gardeners as low as zone 7 have reported that their cannas are getting through the winter without being dug up; just be sure to protect the tubers with a heavy layer of mulch.
PESTS/DISEASES
Slugs, snails, spider mites, and caterpillars may be problems.
Rust, fungal leaf spot, and bacterial blight are common.
Bean yellow mosaic and tomato spotted wilt viruses can occur.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Astilbe
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Part SunShade
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Astilbe is a perennial with beautiful, showy flowers atop glossy, fern-like foliage. Here’s how to grow and care for astilbes in your garden.
Astilbes’ flower clusters vary in size from 6 inches to 2 feet and their height ranges from 6 inches to 5 feet, depending on the variety.
If you have a shady area, try astilbes. They are a great way to add color and texture to a place where other flowers won’t thrive.
PLANTING
Astilbes prefer a site that receives light to moderate shade; they will burn in full sun.
Astilbes prefer soils that provide average to slightly below average moisture. Make sure your soil drains well and does not puddle or get water-logged in rain. Amend soil, especially clay types, with peat moss, perlite, and coarse sand to improve the drainage.
You can plant astilbe seeds, but they are short–lived and difficult to germinate. It is easier to plant divisions from other astilbe plants.
Plant divisions in the spring or fall about 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the type.
If you are planting bare-root plants, make sure the holes are twice as wide as the plants and 4 to 6 inches deep. Place the plants so that the roots are fanned slightly and pointing downwards, with the crown planted 1 to 2 inches below the ground level. Cover the roots with soil and press firmly.
Make sure to plant the divisions in consistently moist, humus-rich soil. Dry soil can be fatal to your plants.
To prolong the foliage, provide shade from hot afternoon sun. Astilbes can grow in deep shade, but will not flower as much.
CARE
Remember to regularly check your astilbes to make sure they are moist. Water accordingly if rain does not occur. It’s best to water deeply when you water (not everyday sprinkling).
Astilbes spread quickly and form broad clumps. Their crowns often rise above the soil as they grow, so make sure to cover them with humus-rich soil or lift and replant the clumps.
Your astilbes will benefit from a balanced organic fertilizer applied in the spring. (Learn more about soil amendments here.)
Be sure to divide the overgrown clumps every 3 to 4 years in the spring. You can either replant the divisions immediately or put them in pots to be planted out in the early summer when they are re-established.
Astilbe do fine as cutting flowers if you wish to clip some blooms to bring inside.
Removing the flower heads will not promote continued flowering.
After blooming has finished for the season, feel free to clip off any spent flower stems. Your astilbes will continue to provide attractive foliage until fall.
After the first frost, the leaves may yellow; trim leaves if you wish and fresh growth will come next spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Tarnished plant bug
Powdery mildew
Bacterial leaf spots
Luckily, astilbe are deer-resistant.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Part SunShade
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummer
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Astilbe is a perennial with beautiful, showy flowers atop glossy, fern-like foliage. Here’s how to grow and care for astilbes in your garden.
Astilbes’ flower clusters vary in size from 6 inches to 2 feet and their height ranges from 6 inches to 5 feet, depending on the variety.
If you have a shady area, try astilbes. They are a great way to add color and texture to a place where other flowers won’t thrive.
PLANTING
Astilbes prefer a site that receives light to moderate shade; they will burn in full sun.
Astilbes prefer soils that provide average to slightly below average moisture. Make sure your soil drains well and does not puddle or get water-logged in rain. Amend soil, especially clay types, with peat moss, perlite, and coarse sand to improve the drainage.
You can plant astilbe seeds, but they are short–lived and difficult to germinate. It is easier to plant divisions from other astilbe plants.
Plant divisions in the spring or fall about 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the type.
If you are planting bare-root plants, make sure the holes are twice as wide as the plants and 4 to 6 inches deep. Place the plants so that the roots are fanned slightly and pointing downwards, with the crown planted 1 to 2 inches below the ground level. Cover the roots with soil and press firmly.
Make sure to plant the divisions in consistently moist, humus-rich soil. Dry soil can be fatal to your plants.
To prolong the foliage, provide shade from hot afternoon sun. Astilbes can grow in deep shade, but will not flower as much.
CARE
Remember to regularly check your astilbes to make sure they are moist. Water accordingly if rain does not occur. It’s best to water deeply when you water (not everyday sprinkling).
Astilbes spread quickly and form broad clumps. Their crowns often rise above the soil as they grow, so make sure to cover them with humus-rich soil or lift and replant the clumps.
Your astilbes will benefit from a balanced organic fertilizer applied in the spring. (Learn more about soil amendments here.)
Be sure to divide the overgrown clumps every 3 to 4 years in the spring. You can either replant the divisions immediately or put them in pots to be planted out in the early summer when they are re-established.
Astilbe do fine as cutting flowers if you wish to clip some blooms to bring inside.
Removing the flower heads will not promote continued flowering.
After blooming has finished for the season, feel free to clip off any spent flower stems. Your astilbes will continue to provide attractive foliage until fall.
After the first frost, the leaves may yellow; trim leaves if you wish and fresh growth will come next spring.
PESTS/DISEASES
Tarnished plant bug
Powdery mildew
Bacterial leaf spots
Luckily, astilbe are deer-resistant.
2
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Aster
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Varies
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Asters are daisy-like perennials with starry-shaped flower heads. They bring delightful color to the garden in late summer and autumn when many of your other summer blooms may be fading.
The plant’s height ranges from 8 inches to 8 feet, depending on the type. You can find an aster for almost any garden and they have many uses, such as in borders, rock gardens, or wildflower gardens. Asters also attract butterflies to your garden!
PLANTING
Asters prefer climates with cool, moist summers—especially cool night temperatures.
Select a site with full sun to partial sun.
Soil should be moist, well-drained, and average to humus-rich.
Plant asters in early to mid-spring. Fertilize soil prior to planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
While the plant can be grown from seed, germination can be uneven. You can start the seeds indoors during the winter by sowing seeds in pots or flats and keeping them in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 weeks. After 4 to 6 weeks, put the seeds in a sunny spot.
Set seeds one inch deep.
Many gardeners opt for purchasing a potted plant from the nursery instead.
Space asters 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the type.
Give plants plenty of water at planting. Add mulch after planting to keep soil cool and prevent weeds. If you’re replanting shoots, use vigorous, young shoots to ensure best growth.
CARE
Add a thin layer of compost with a 2–inch layer of mulch around the plants every spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week, remember to water your plants regularly during the summer. However, many asters are moisture-sensitive; if your plants have too much moisture or too little moisture, they will often lose their lower foliage or not flower well. Keep an eye out for any stressed plants and try a different watering method if your plants are losing flowers.
Stake the tall varieties in order to keep them upright and remember to pinch the young shoots to encourage bushiness.
Cut asters back in winter after the foliage has died.
Divide every 2 to 3 years in the spring to maintain your plant’s vigor and flower quality.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to:
Powdery mildew
Rusts
White smut
Leaf spots
Stem cankers
Aphids
Tarsonemid mites
Slugs and snails
Nematodes
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Varies
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleRedWhite
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
Asters are daisy-like perennials with starry-shaped flower heads. They bring delightful color to the garden in late summer and autumn when many of your other summer blooms may be fading.
The plant’s height ranges from 8 inches to 8 feet, depending on the type. You can find an aster for almost any garden and they have many uses, such as in borders, rock gardens, or wildflower gardens. Asters also attract butterflies to your garden!
PLANTING
Asters prefer climates with cool, moist summers—especially cool night temperatures.
Select a site with full sun to partial sun.
Soil should be moist, well-drained, and average to humus-rich.
Plant asters in early to mid-spring. Fertilize soil prior to planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
While the plant can be grown from seed, germination can be uneven. You can start the seeds indoors during the winter by sowing seeds in pots or flats and keeping them in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 weeks. After 4 to 6 weeks, put the seeds in a sunny spot.
Set seeds one inch deep.
Many gardeners opt for purchasing a potted plant from the nursery instead.
Space asters 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the type.
Give plants plenty of water at planting. Add mulch after planting to keep soil cool and prevent weeds. If you’re replanting shoots, use vigorous, young shoots to ensure best growth.
CARE
Add a thin layer of compost with a 2–inch layer of mulch around the plants every spring.
If you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week, remember to water your plants regularly during the summer. However, many asters are moisture-sensitive; if your plants have too much moisture or too little moisture, they will often lose their lower foliage or not flower well. Keep an eye out for any stressed plants and try a different watering method if your plants are losing flowers.
Stake the tall varieties in order to keep them upright and remember to pinch the young shoots to encourage bushiness.
Cut asters back in winter after the foliage has died.
Divide every 2 to 3 years in the spring to maintain your plant’s vigor and flower quality.
PESTS/DISEASES
Susceptible to:
Powdery mildew
Rusts
White smut
Leaf spots
Stem cankers
Aphids
Tarsonemid mites
Slugs and snails
Nematodes
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Thyme is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. Here’s how to grow thyme in your own garden.
Thyme is aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavor. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking.
PLANTING
It’s hard to grow thyme from seeds because of slow, uneven germination. It’s easier to buy the plants or take some cuttings from a friend.
For a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in well-drained soil about 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.
The plants should grow 6 to 12 inches in height.
In the garden, plant thyme near cabbage or tomatoes.
CARE
Water normally and remember to trim the plants when they get leggy.
Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too.
If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Root rot
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Thyme is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. Here’s how to grow thyme in your own garden.
Thyme is aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavor. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking.
PLANTING
It’s hard to grow thyme from seeds because of slow, uneven germination. It’s easier to buy the plants or take some cuttings from a friend.
For a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in well-drained soil about 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.
The plants should grow 6 to 12 inches in height.
In the garden, plant thyme near cabbage or tomatoes.
CARE
Water normally and remember to trim the plants when they get leggy.
Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too.
If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Root rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Artemisia dracunculus
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunFull SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Tarragon is a perennial herb with long, light green leaves and tiny greenish or yellowish white flowers. For cooking, use French tarragon. Russian tarragon can easily be mistaken for French, but Russian tarragon is coarser and less flavorful than French tarragon.
PLANTING
You can’t grow French tarragon from seeds. You must purchase the plants or take an established plant from a friend’s garden. Get the transplants in the spring or fall.
Plant the transplants in well-drained soil about 2 to 3 feet apart in order to give each plant room to grow. A full-grown plant should cover about 12 inches of soil.
The plants should grow to around 2 or 3 feet in height.
Tarragon is a good companion to most vegetables in the garden.
CARE
Be sure to prune the plant regularly to prevent flowering and to keep the height to around 2 feet (otherwise the plant will fall over).
If you live in a colder climate, be sure to put mulch around the plants in late fall in order to protect the roots during the winter.
To help keep your plants healthy, divide them every 3 to 4 years in the spring or fall. New plants can grow from stem cuttings or root cuttings.
PESTS/DISEASES
Many rusts, including white rust
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Various fungal leaf and stem diseases
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunFull SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Tarragon is a perennial herb with long, light green leaves and tiny greenish or yellowish white flowers. For cooking, use French tarragon. Russian tarragon can easily be mistaken for French, but Russian tarragon is coarser and less flavorful than French tarragon.
PLANTING
You can’t grow French tarragon from seeds. You must purchase the plants or take an established plant from a friend’s garden. Get the transplants in the spring or fall.
Plant the transplants in well-drained soil about 2 to 3 feet apart in order to give each plant room to grow. A full-grown plant should cover about 12 inches of soil.
The plants should grow to around 2 or 3 feet in height.
Tarragon is a good companion to most vegetables in the garden.
CARE
Be sure to prune the plant regularly to prevent flowering and to keep the height to around 2 feet (otherwise the plant will fall over).
If you live in a colder climate, be sure to put mulch around the plants in late fall in order to protect the roots during the winter.
To help keep your plants healthy, divide them every 3 to 4 years in the spring or fall. New plants can grow from stem cuttings or root cuttings.
PESTS/DISEASES
Many rusts, including white rust
Downy mildew
Powdery mildew
Various fungal leaf and stem diseases
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Sage is a hardy perennial with soft, grayish green leaves. Here’s how to grow sage in your garden!
Sage produces a variety of flower colors; they can be purple, pink, blue, or white. Common sage is used most commonly for cooking; it’s a classic in stuffing!
PLANTING
Sage can be grown from seeds, but the best way to grow high-quality sage is from cuttings from an established plant.
You can start the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil 1 to 2 weeks before the last spring frost.
Plant the seeds/cuttings 24 to 30 inches apart.
For best growth, the soil should be between 60º and 70ºF.
Plants should grow to be between 12 and 30 inches in height.
In the garden, plant near rosemary, cabbage, and carrots, but keep sage away from cucumbers.
CARE
Be sure to water the young plants regularly until they are fully grown so that they don’t dry out.
Prune the heavier, woody stems every spring.
It’s best to replace the plants every 4 to 5 years to ensure the best quality.
PESTS/DISEASES
Rust
Powdery mildew
Stem rot
Fungal leaf spots
Whiteflies
Aphids
Spider mites
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Sage is a hardy perennial with soft, grayish green leaves. Here’s how to grow sage in your garden!
Sage produces a variety of flower colors; they can be purple, pink, blue, or white. Common sage is used most commonly for cooking; it’s a classic in stuffing!
PLANTING
Sage can be grown from seeds, but the best way to grow high-quality sage is from cuttings from an established plant.
You can start the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil 1 to 2 weeks before the last spring frost.
Plant the seeds/cuttings 24 to 30 inches apart.
For best growth, the soil should be between 60º and 70ºF.
Plants should grow to be between 12 and 30 inches in height.
In the garden, plant near rosemary, cabbage, and carrots, but keep sage away from cucumbers.
CARE
Be sure to water the young plants regularly until they are fully grown so that they don’t dry out.
Prune the heavier, woody stems every spring.
It’s best to replace the plants every 4 to 5 years to ensure the best quality.
PESTS/DISEASES
Rust
Powdery mildew
Stem rot
Fungal leaf spots
Whiteflies
Aphids
Spider mites
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rosmarinus officinalis
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Blue
Rosemary is a perennial evergreen shrub with blue flowers. It is a pungent and distinctive herb with a sweet, resinous flavor. Here’s how to grow your own rosemary plants.
Rosemary is ideal for a rock garden or the top of a dry wall. It is often used for seasoning poultry, lamb, stews, and soups.
PLANTING
For a head start, plant the seeds or cuttings indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil. For best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.
Be sure to give your plants enough room to grow. Rosemary grows to about 4 feet tall and spreads about 4 feet as well.
In the garden, plant near beans, cabbage, carrots, and sage. Learn more about companion planting with herbs.
CARE
After the rosemary plant flowers, remember to trim the plant.
For fresh rosemary in the winter, grow the plant indoors in a pot. Be sure to put it in bright light and cool temperatures.
Prune regularly so that the plant won’t get lanky.
Water the plants evenly throughout the growing season.
Be sure to get cuttings or divide the plant for next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aerial blight
Bacterial leaf spots
Several types of root rot
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Blue
Rosemary is a perennial evergreen shrub with blue flowers. It is a pungent and distinctive herb with a sweet, resinous flavor. Here’s how to grow your own rosemary plants.
Rosemary is ideal for a rock garden or the top of a dry wall. It is often used for seasoning poultry, lamb, stews, and soups.
PLANTING
For a head start, plant the seeds or cuttings indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil. For best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.
Be sure to give your plants enough room to grow. Rosemary grows to about 4 feet tall and spreads about 4 feet as well.
In the garden, plant near beans, cabbage, carrots, and sage. Learn more about companion planting with herbs.
CARE
After the rosemary plant flowers, remember to trim the plant.
For fresh rosemary in the winter, grow the plant indoors in a pot. Be sure to put it in bright light and cool temperatures.
Prune regularly so that the plant won’t get lanky.
Water the plants evenly throughout the growing season.
Be sure to get cuttings or divide the plant for next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aerial blight
Bacterial leaf spots
Several types of root rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Parsley is a biennial plant with bright green, feather-like leaves and is in the same family as dill. Here’s how to grow parsley in your own garden.
This popular herb is used in sauces, salads, and especially soups, as it lessens the need for salt. Not only is parsley the perfect garnish, it’s also good for you; it’s rich in iron and vitamins A and C.
PLANTING
For a head start, plant seeds in individual pots indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. For better germination, you can soak the seeds overnight.
Plant the seeds 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost because parsley is a slow starter. (The plants can handle the cold weather.) It can take up to 3 weeks for the plants to sprout.
Plant the seeds in moist, rich soil about 6 to 8 inches apart. For thinner plants, plant about 6 to 10 inches apart. Try to pick an area that is weed-free; that way, you’ll be able to see the parsley sprouting after about 3 weeks.
You can use a fluorescent light to help the seedlings grow. Make sure it remains at least two inches above the leaves at all times.
To ensure the best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.
Plant parsley near asparagus, corn, and tomatoes in your garden.
CARE
Be sure to water the seeds often while they germinate so that they don’t dry out.
Throughout the summer, be sure to water the plants evenly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Stem rot
Leaf spots
Black swallowtail larvae
Carrot fly and celery fly larvae
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Parsley is a biennial plant with bright green, feather-like leaves and is in the same family as dill. Here’s how to grow parsley in your own garden.
This popular herb is used in sauces, salads, and especially soups, as it lessens the need for salt. Not only is parsley the perfect garnish, it’s also good for you; it’s rich in iron and vitamins A and C.
PLANTING
For a head start, plant seeds in individual pots indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. For better germination, you can soak the seeds overnight.
Plant the seeds 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost because parsley is a slow starter. (The plants can handle the cold weather.) It can take up to 3 weeks for the plants to sprout.
Plant the seeds in moist, rich soil about 6 to 8 inches apart. For thinner plants, plant about 6 to 10 inches apart. Try to pick an area that is weed-free; that way, you’ll be able to see the parsley sprouting after about 3 weeks.
You can use a fluorescent light to help the seedlings grow. Make sure it remains at least two inches above the leaves at all times.
To ensure the best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.
Plant parsley near asparagus, corn, and tomatoes in your garden.
CARE
Be sure to water the seeds often while they germinate so that they don’t dry out.
Throughout the summer, be sure to water the plants evenly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Stem rot
Leaf spots
Black swallowtail larvae
Carrot fly and celery fly larvae
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.
PLANTING
Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.
CARE
Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root and stem rots
Aphids
Spider mites
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.
PLANTING
Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.
CARE
Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root and stem rots
Aphids
Spider mites
0
0
