文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
What you do with paperwhites (Narcissus tazetta ssp. papyraceus) after they bloom is largely a function of what you do with them before they bloom. Paperwhites are bulb plants that are hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 but also are used for forcing indoors during winter. The outdoor plants stay outdoors after they finishing flowering to bloom the next year while spent indoor paperwhites either are tossed in the garbage or planted outside. Their flowers' pure-white coronas and petals distinguish paperwhites from their relatives.
In the Garden
If you plant paperwhite bulbs in your garden one year -- September through December, they should produce their pale flowers for many springs to come. Paperwhites need only well-drained soil and a sunny site to thrive and even naturalize. Plant the bulbs so that their pointed tops are 3 inches below the soil surface, spacing four bulbs per 1 square foot.
Don't cut back the foliage after the flowers fade; wait until the leaves have withered to allow the plants to restock their food supply. At that point, cut the foliage to the ground, and wait for next year's floral display.
Forcing in Winter
The term "forcing bulbs" may sound harsh, but it simply means tricking bulbs into blooming when it is not their normal time to bloom. Most bulbs require a period of refrigeration to bloom in winter, but paperwhites do not. Plant them close together, pointy ends up, in soil, stones or sea glass, with the top one-half of each bulb sticking out of the material. Keep the soil moist, or, if you use stones or shells, maintain a water level up to 3/4 inch from the top of that material. The flowers should bloom in about one month.
Indoors
If you force your paperwhite bulbs one year, don't try the same trick the following winter; it usually won't work because the bulbs have not been able to replenish their energy. Many people toss out forced paperwhite bulbs when the blooms are off the plants, but an option is to transplant the bulbs, yellowing foliage and all, into a sunny garden site. If you forced the bulbs in material such as stones or shells, then the bulbs may take two years to restock their reserves and flower again.
Origin of Genus Name
In Greek mythology, Narcissus was the beautiful youth who spent his life admiring his own reflection in a pool of water; after death, a flower of astonishing beauty grew in his place. It is from this legend that paperwhites get their genus name, and paperwhites often attract attention whether they bloom in pots indoors or in fields of white in a garden.
In the Garden
If you plant paperwhite bulbs in your garden one year -- September through December, they should produce their pale flowers for many springs to come. Paperwhites need only well-drained soil and a sunny site to thrive and even naturalize. Plant the bulbs so that their pointed tops are 3 inches below the soil surface, spacing four bulbs per 1 square foot.
Don't cut back the foliage after the flowers fade; wait until the leaves have withered to allow the plants to restock their food supply. At that point, cut the foliage to the ground, and wait for next year's floral display.
Forcing in Winter
The term "forcing bulbs" may sound harsh, but it simply means tricking bulbs into blooming when it is not their normal time to bloom. Most bulbs require a period of refrigeration to bloom in winter, but paperwhites do not. Plant them close together, pointy ends up, in soil, stones or sea glass, with the top one-half of each bulb sticking out of the material. Keep the soil moist, or, if you use stones or shells, maintain a water level up to 3/4 inch from the top of that material. The flowers should bloom in about one month.
Indoors
If you force your paperwhite bulbs one year, don't try the same trick the following winter; it usually won't work because the bulbs have not been able to replenish their energy. Many people toss out forced paperwhite bulbs when the blooms are off the plants, but an option is to transplant the bulbs, yellowing foliage and all, into a sunny garden site. If you forced the bulbs in material such as stones or shells, then the bulbs may take two years to restock their reserves and flower again.
Origin of Genus Name
In Greek mythology, Narcissus was the beautiful youth who spent his life admiring his own reflection in a pool of water; after death, a flower of astonishing beauty grew in his place. It is from this legend that paperwhites get their genus name, and paperwhites often attract attention whether they bloom in pots indoors or in fields of white in a garden.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) produce flamboyant blooms over outsize bulbs. The tropical plants grow outdoors only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but they also make a splash as houseplants where they brighten winter holidays. How many times they'll bloom indoors or how long they'll last in the garden depends on how you treat them after they're finished blooming.
The Perennial Bulb
Like other bulbs, the amaryllis nurtures next year's plant and bloom as this year's flowers fade. It is also perennial, which means that it lives for three years or longer. How many years your amaryllis lives depends on its ability to gather nutrients, a process fueled by photosynthesis in its leaves.
Unlike many bulbs, amaryllis leaves follow flowers and persist for several months after the plant has bloomed in the spring. Whether outdoors or in a container, do not cut the amaryllis plant's long, straplike leaves until they whither. In this way, you've given the perennial bulb another year of life.
Indoor Bulbs
Gift amaryllis bulbs typically arrive eight to 10 weeks before the winter holidays with instructions to begin watering them immediately. Depending on the age of the bulb, it will produce one or more scapes typically topped by three trumpet-shaped flowers in shades of red, pink, white or bicolor combinations. Indoors, with bright light and moderate temperatures, each scape of flowers lasts up to a month. Plants kept in a cool room, around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, bloom longest.
In the Garden
Plant amaryllis bulbs in the garden in September or October in USDA zones 8 through 10. Use purchased bulbs or gift bulbs that have faded. Plant the bulbs in organic, well-draining soil with the wide side down so that the narrow neck sits above the soil.
Beginning when scapes begin growing in February or March, fertilize with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12. Work 1 to 1.5 pounds into the soil for every 100-foot of row or for 100 square feet of bed. Fertilize when the bulbs break dormancy, when scapes reach 6 to 8 inches tall and again after the flowers fade in April. Remove faded flower scapes to stop energy-robbing seed formation.
Bulbs and Dormancy
Whether indoors or out, the secret to long-lived amaryllis lies in their ability to build new embryos while their leaves fade throughout the summer. Dormancy allows them to rest before entering the "home stretch" of bloom. After this period of rapid growth, bulbs need a period of 2 to 3 months of dormancy. Stop watering plants and put potted bulbs in a cool, dry basement or plant them with garden bulbs in fall.
Begin watering plants again as they emerge from dormancy in February or March and keep the soil evenly moist as bulbs bloom. Within two to three years, bulbs may produce offsets -- bulblets that, when removed during dormancy and planted in pots or garden, may produce flowers within three to four years, prolonging the bloom of your amaryllis collection.
The Perennial Bulb
Like other bulbs, the amaryllis nurtures next year's plant and bloom as this year's flowers fade. It is also perennial, which means that it lives for three years or longer. How many years your amaryllis lives depends on its ability to gather nutrients, a process fueled by photosynthesis in its leaves.
Unlike many bulbs, amaryllis leaves follow flowers and persist for several months after the plant has bloomed in the spring. Whether outdoors or in a container, do not cut the amaryllis plant's long, straplike leaves until they whither. In this way, you've given the perennial bulb another year of life.
Indoor Bulbs
Gift amaryllis bulbs typically arrive eight to 10 weeks before the winter holidays with instructions to begin watering them immediately. Depending on the age of the bulb, it will produce one or more scapes typically topped by three trumpet-shaped flowers in shades of red, pink, white or bicolor combinations. Indoors, with bright light and moderate temperatures, each scape of flowers lasts up to a month. Plants kept in a cool room, around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, bloom longest.
In the Garden
Plant amaryllis bulbs in the garden in September or October in USDA zones 8 through 10. Use purchased bulbs or gift bulbs that have faded. Plant the bulbs in organic, well-draining soil with the wide side down so that the narrow neck sits above the soil.
Beginning when scapes begin growing in February or March, fertilize with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12. Work 1 to 1.5 pounds into the soil for every 100-foot of row or for 100 square feet of bed. Fertilize when the bulbs break dormancy, when scapes reach 6 to 8 inches tall and again after the flowers fade in April. Remove faded flower scapes to stop energy-robbing seed formation.
Bulbs and Dormancy
Whether indoors or out, the secret to long-lived amaryllis lies in their ability to build new embryos while their leaves fade throughout the summer. Dormancy allows them to rest before entering the "home stretch" of bloom. After this period of rapid growth, bulbs need a period of 2 to 3 months of dormancy. Stop watering plants and put potted bulbs in a cool, dry basement or plant them with garden bulbs in fall.
Begin watering plants again as they emerge from dormancy in February or March and keep the soil evenly moist as bulbs bloom. Within two to three years, bulbs may produce offsets -- bulblets that, when removed during dormancy and planted in pots or garden, may produce flowers within three to four years, prolonging the bloom of your amaryllis collection.
0
0
Nathaniel Ziering
2017年11月30日
Impatiens growing better indoors than they did all spring/summer outdoors. Go figure! I have it near humidifier and direct southeast sunlight.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) originated in the Mediterranean region, where it adapted to warm temperatures, sandy soil and a dry environment. In warmer areas (zones 7 to 11) it is a perennial and can grow outdoors. Plant rosemary in a pot in colder areas (zones 6 to 2) so it can be brought inside during winter to protect it from the cold. Rosemary prefers slightly alkaline, sandy, well-drained soil so that the roots do not stay wet and it can live up to 20 years when well cared for.
Starting from a Cutting
The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots.
Starting by Layering
Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed
Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting.
Growing Conditions
Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
Starting from a Cutting
The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots.
Starting by Layering
Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed
Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting.
Growing Conditions
Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
Answers to frequently asked questions about starting seeds indoors
I’VE talked to so many gardeners who are experienced at growing plants outdoors but hesitate to start seeds indoors. To me, starting seeds is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening. It gets my hands in the soil (or at least the seed-starting mix) during the dark, cold days of late winter and early spring. And it's so amazing and rewarding to plant a seemingly lifeless seed and watch it sprout and grow. Here are answers to some of the hundreds of questions I've been asked about seed starting. When you see how easy it is, I hope you'll give it a try!
Why start seeds indoors?
Gardeners start their own seeds for all sorts of reasons. First of all, if you start your own seeds, you can plant hard-to-find varieties. You'll likely find fewer than a dozen varieties available as plants at your local garden center, but hundreds more are available as seeds.You can save money, too; a packet of seeds costs a few dollars and usually contains a dozen or more seeds — a single plant often costs more than an entire packet. Nurturing a little patch of green indoors is a great way to beat the winter blues, and I think it's particularly rewarding to grow a plant from seed to harvest.
What seeds are easiest to start indoors?
If you're new to seed starting, begin with easy, reliable seeds, including tomato, pepper, basil, zinnia, marigold, cosmos. These all germinate readily and grow quickly. Once you've mastered these, you can try your hand at more challenging plants.
When should I sow my seeds?
When you're starting seeds indoors, timing is everything. The goal is to grow seedlings that are the ideal size for transplanting into the garden at the proper time. Sowing dates depend on:
your average last spring frost date;
whether the plant prefers cool or warm growing conditions;
how quickly the seed germinates and grows.
Most seed packets suggest a planting time, such as "sow seeds indoors six weeks before your average last frost date." To calculate your planting date, start by determining your average last spring frost date, mark it on a calendar, and count back in one-week increments. Learn more: When to Start Your Seeds
How do I know my last frost date in spring?
The easiest way to find out is to ask a neighbor who's an experienced gardener. You can also contact a local Master Gardener program (part of your state's Cooperative Extension) or ask staff at your local garden center. The date of the actual last spring frost varies from year to year so the "average last spring frost date" is just an approximation, but it gives you a starting point.
Can I grow on a windowsill or do I need special grow lights?
Although it's possible to grow seedlings on a sunny windowsill, you'll get much better results if you grow them under lights. That's because the sunlight in early spring isn't nearly as intense as summer sun, and the days are shorter, too. Seedlings growing on a windowsill will reach for the sun, resulting in long, weak stems that bend toward the light. Plants grown under the consistent, bright fluorescent lights of a light garden, on the other hand, will have strong, stocky stems that will adapt better once they're transplanted into the garden. Learn more: Gardening Under Lights
Can I use garden soil to start seeds?
Garden soil tends to drain poorly, especially when it's used in small seed-starting trays. It can also harbor disease organisms that can damage or kill young seedlings. You'll get the best results by starting seeds in a lightweight mix formulated specially for seed starting, such as Germinating Mix. These mixes drain freely yet retain enough water for seedling roots, and they're free of fungi and other disease-causing organisms. Learn more: Choosing the Right Soil for Seed Starting.
What type of pot should I use?
While you can start seeds in any container that has drainage holes, specially designed seed-starting pots and trays provide optimal conditions. They let you start lots of seeds in a small space, and they drain freely to prevent rot. Some people prefer biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots; others prefer reusable trays. Self-watering, all-in-one seed-starting systems are convenient and foolproof. Learn more: How to Select the Right Seed Starting System
How deep do I plant the seeds?
Most seed packets tell you how deep to plant. A rule of thumb is to sow seeds two or three times as deep as they are wide. Take care not to plant seeds too deep. A seed contains a limited supply of stored food to nourish it during germination. If you plant it too deep, it will run out of food before it reaches the light and grows big enough to start producing its own. Some seeds require light to germinate; the seed packet should say this. Sow these seeds on the surface of the planting mix.
Which is better, watering from the top or from the bottom?
Bottom watering is usually preferable because it keeps the soil surface dryer, helping prevent disease problems. For small seeds or surface-sown seeds, top misting keeps the surface moist for better germination. Self-watering seed-starting systems, such as our GrowEase Seed Starter Kit, use a wicking fabric to supply water from the bottom, providing a steady supply of just the right amount of water to plant roots. You just fill the reservoir and don't need to worry about over- or under-watering.
When do I remove the greenhouse cover on my seed starter?
The greenhouse cover holds in moisture, raising the humidity for fast germination. As soon as you see the first tiny sprout, remove the cover. This allows air to circulate around seedlings, minimizing disease problems.
How close should the grow lights be to the seedlings?
Keep the lights a few inches from the tops of the seedlings to promote strong, stocky growth. Our light gardens have adjustable lights that are easy to raise as the seedlings grow.
Do I leave the lights on all the time?
Most seedlings grow best when lights are kept on for about 14 to 16 hours per day. They need a period of darkness (as they would in nature) to rest and prepare for active growth when the lights are back on. An automatic timer makes this easy.
Do I need to thin my seedlings?
A few weeks after seeds start growing, they may start crowding each other. When that happens, it will be time to thin the seedlings. This is the hardest part of seed starting for most gardeners. Choose the strongest seedling and removing the others nearby. This gives the remaining seedling room to grow. Although you can try to separate seedlings and replant, invariably you'll damage some roots, setting back growth. The best way to thin is to snip off extra seedlings at the soil line.
When should I start fertilizing my seedlings?
The first set of leaf-like structures aren't leaves at all, but are the seed's food storage structures, called cotyledons. The second and subsequent sets are true leaves, and they resemble the mature plant's leaves. Begin fertilizing seedlings when they're an inch or two tall, or when they have their second set of true leaves.
How do I know when it's time to transplant into larger pots?
Tomatoes and other fast-growing plants may outgrow their pots before it's time to move them into the garden. About a month after sowing or when seedlings are about 4" tall, gently remove one of the seedlings from its pot. If the roots are beginning to fill the space, then it's time to transplant them into a larger pot. Avoid waiting too long, because root crowding can stunt plant growth and make it difficult for plants to recover after transplanting.
What is "hardening off" and how do I do it?
Hardening off is simply acclimating plants to outdoor conditions. Seedlings grown indoors have been coddled — you've been giving them just the right amount of light, moisture and nutrients. Outdoor conditions are more challenging, with fluctuating temperatures and light levels, more variable soil moisture, and wind. About a week before you plan to set the seedlings into the garden, start hardening them off. Place them in a protected spot outdoors (partly shaded, out of the wind) for a few hours, bringing them in at night. Gradually, over the course of a week or 10 days, expose them to more and more sunshine and wind. A cold frame is a great place to harden off plants.
What Went Wrong?
EVEN the most experienced seed starters occasionally have problems. Here are some symptoms, and possible causes.
Poor germination. Although most common vegetables and annual flowers germinate readily, some types of plants have notoriously poor germination rates. Often, this is indicated on the seed packet (with the suggestion to sow extra seed). First of all, be sure you've given plants enough time to germinate. At sowing time, mark the pots with the type of plant, date of sowing, and days to germination (found on the seed packet). Some seeds take two weeks or more to sprout. Poor germination can be caused by overly wet or cold soil, which causes seeds to rot. (The latter can be remedied with a Heat Mat.) If the soil was too dry, the seeds may not have been able to absorb enough moisture to sprout. And if the soil dried out even once after they began growing, the fragile new roots may have died before the shoot even emerged above the soil. Poor germination can also be caused by out-dated seed, and seed that hasn't been properly stored.
Damping off. If, after a few days, some of your seedlings keel over, as though a tiny lumberjack felled them at the soil line, then you're probably seeing the effects of damping off. This is caused by soil-borne fungi attacking the stem. There's no cure, and the seeds won't resprout. Start over with clean containers and sterile seed-starting mix. Allow the soil surface to dry out slightly between waterings, and place a fan in the room for good air circulation. To disinfect used containers, sterilize them in a 10 percent bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water.) To learn more, read the article Damping Off
Mold and algae growth. If you see fuzzy white growth or slimy green patches on the surface of the planting mix, or on the outside of biodegradable pots, it's probably mold or algae. Although generally harmless to the seedling, they both indicate that the seed-starting mix is too wet. Allow it to dry out slightly between waterings and use a small fan in the room to increase air circulation.
Pale, stretched-out seedlings with weak stems. "Leggy" seedlings are often the result of inadequate light, both in intensity and duration. Place plants under grow lights, arranging them so the lights are a few inches above the tops of the plants, and keep the lights on for about 14 to 16 hours per day. Leggy plants can also result from too-warm room temperatures and overcrowding. Inadequate fertilizing can lead to pale, weak-stemmed plants.
Discolored leaves. If seedling foliage is pale green, yellowish green, or has a purple cast to it, the plants may need a nutrient boost. Begin fertilizing seedlings when they're an inch or two tall, or when they have their second set of true leaves. Use a water-soluble fertilizer that's diluted to half-strength, applying weekly for the first few weeks. After that, you can go up to full strength applied weekly. (Be sure to follow the label directions for dilution rates.)
I’VE talked to so many gardeners who are experienced at growing plants outdoors but hesitate to start seeds indoors. To me, starting seeds is one of the most rewarding parts of gardening. It gets my hands in the soil (or at least the seed-starting mix) during the dark, cold days of late winter and early spring. And it's so amazing and rewarding to plant a seemingly lifeless seed and watch it sprout and grow. Here are answers to some of the hundreds of questions I've been asked about seed starting. When you see how easy it is, I hope you'll give it a try!
Why start seeds indoors?
Gardeners start their own seeds for all sorts of reasons. First of all, if you start your own seeds, you can plant hard-to-find varieties. You'll likely find fewer than a dozen varieties available as plants at your local garden center, but hundreds more are available as seeds.You can save money, too; a packet of seeds costs a few dollars and usually contains a dozen or more seeds — a single plant often costs more than an entire packet. Nurturing a little patch of green indoors is a great way to beat the winter blues, and I think it's particularly rewarding to grow a plant from seed to harvest.
What seeds are easiest to start indoors?
If you're new to seed starting, begin with easy, reliable seeds, including tomato, pepper, basil, zinnia, marigold, cosmos. These all germinate readily and grow quickly. Once you've mastered these, you can try your hand at more challenging plants.
When should I sow my seeds?
When you're starting seeds indoors, timing is everything. The goal is to grow seedlings that are the ideal size for transplanting into the garden at the proper time. Sowing dates depend on:
your average last spring frost date;
whether the plant prefers cool or warm growing conditions;
how quickly the seed germinates and grows.
Most seed packets suggest a planting time, such as "sow seeds indoors six weeks before your average last frost date." To calculate your planting date, start by determining your average last spring frost date, mark it on a calendar, and count back in one-week increments. Learn more: When to Start Your Seeds
How do I know my last frost date in spring?
The easiest way to find out is to ask a neighbor who's an experienced gardener. You can also contact a local Master Gardener program (part of your state's Cooperative Extension) or ask staff at your local garden center. The date of the actual last spring frost varies from year to year so the "average last spring frost date" is just an approximation, but it gives you a starting point.
Can I grow on a windowsill or do I need special grow lights?
Although it's possible to grow seedlings on a sunny windowsill, you'll get much better results if you grow them under lights. That's because the sunlight in early spring isn't nearly as intense as summer sun, and the days are shorter, too. Seedlings growing on a windowsill will reach for the sun, resulting in long, weak stems that bend toward the light. Plants grown under the consistent, bright fluorescent lights of a light garden, on the other hand, will have strong, stocky stems that will adapt better once they're transplanted into the garden. Learn more: Gardening Under Lights
Can I use garden soil to start seeds?
Garden soil tends to drain poorly, especially when it's used in small seed-starting trays. It can also harbor disease organisms that can damage or kill young seedlings. You'll get the best results by starting seeds in a lightweight mix formulated specially for seed starting, such as Germinating Mix. These mixes drain freely yet retain enough water for seedling roots, and they're free of fungi and other disease-causing organisms. Learn more: Choosing the Right Soil for Seed Starting.
What type of pot should I use?
While you can start seeds in any container that has drainage holes, specially designed seed-starting pots and trays provide optimal conditions. They let you start lots of seeds in a small space, and they drain freely to prevent rot. Some people prefer biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots; others prefer reusable trays. Self-watering, all-in-one seed-starting systems are convenient and foolproof. Learn more: How to Select the Right Seed Starting System
How deep do I plant the seeds?
Most seed packets tell you how deep to plant. A rule of thumb is to sow seeds two or three times as deep as they are wide. Take care not to plant seeds too deep. A seed contains a limited supply of stored food to nourish it during germination. If you plant it too deep, it will run out of food before it reaches the light and grows big enough to start producing its own. Some seeds require light to germinate; the seed packet should say this. Sow these seeds on the surface of the planting mix.
Which is better, watering from the top or from the bottom?
Bottom watering is usually preferable because it keeps the soil surface dryer, helping prevent disease problems. For small seeds or surface-sown seeds, top misting keeps the surface moist for better germination. Self-watering seed-starting systems, such as our GrowEase Seed Starter Kit, use a wicking fabric to supply water from the bottom, providing a steady supply of just the right amount of water to plant roots. You just fill the reservoir and don't need to worry about over- or under-watering.
When do I remove the greenhouse cover on my seed starter?
The greenhouse cover holds in moisture, raising the humidity for fast germination. As soon as you see the first tiny sprout, remove the cover. This allows air to circulate around seedlings, minimizing disease problems.
How close should the grow lights be to the seedlings?
Keep the lights a few inches from the tops of the seedlings to promote strong, stocky growth. Our light gardens have adjustable lights that are easy to raise as the seedlings grow.
Do I leave the lights on all the time?
Most seedlings grow best when lights are kept on for about 14 to 16 hours per day. They need a period of darkness (as they would in nature) to rest and prepare for active growth when the lights are back on. An automatic timer makes this easy.
Do I need to thin my seedlings?
A few weeks after seeds start growing, they may start crowding each other. When that happens, it will be time to thin the seedlings. This is the hardest part of seed starting for most gardeners. Choose the strongest seedling and removing the others nearby. This gives the remaining seedling room to grow. Although you can try to separate seedlings and replant, invariably you'll damage some roots, setting back growth. The best way to thin is to snip off extra seedlings at the soil line.
When should I start fertilizing my seedlings?
The first set of leaf-like structures aren't leaves at all, but are the seed's food storage structures, called cotyledons. The second and subsequent sets are true leaves, and they resemble the mature plant's leaves. Begin fertilizing seedlings when they're an inch or two tall, or when they have their second set of true leaves.
How do I know when it's time to transplant into larger pots?
Tomatoes and other fast-growing plants may outgrow their pots before it's time to move them into the garden. About a month after sowing or when seedlings are about 4" tall, gently remove one of the seedlings from its pot. If the roots are beginning to fill the space, then it's time to transplant them into a larger pot. Avoid waiting too long, because root crowding can stunt plant growth and make it difficult for plants to recover after transplanting.
What is "hardening off" and how do I do it?
Hardening off is simply acclimating plants to outdoor conditions. Seedlings grown indoors have been coddled — you've been giving them just the right amount of light, moisture and nutrients. Outdoor conditions are more challenging, with fluctuating temperatures and light levels, more variable soil moisture, and wind. About a week before you plan to set the seedlings into the garden, start hardening them off. Place them in a protected spot outdoors (partly shaded, out of the wind) for a few hours, bringing them in at night. Gradually, over the course of a week or 10 days, expose them to more and more sunshine and wind. A cold frame is a great place to harden off plants.
What Went Wrong?
EVEN the most experienced seed starters occasionally have problems. Here are some symptoms, and possible causes.
Poor germination. Although most common vegetables and annual flowers germinate readily, some types of plants have notoriously poor germination rates. Often, this is indicated on the seed packet (with the suggestion to sow extra seed). First of all, be sure you've given plants enough time to germinate. At sowing time, mark the pots with the type of plant, date of sowing, and days to germination (found on the seed packet). Some seeds take two weeks or more to sprout. Poor germination can be caused by overly wet or cold soil, which causes seeds to rot. (The latter can be remedied with a Heat Mat.) If the soil was too dry, the seeds may not have been able to absorb enough moisture to sprout. And if the soil dried out even once after they began growing, the fragile new roots may have died before the shoot even emerged above the soil. Poor germination can also be caused by out-dated seed, and seed that hasn't been properly stored.
Damping off. If, after a few days, some of your seedlings keel over, as though a tiny lumberjack felled them at the soil line, then you're probably seeing the effects of damping off. This is caused by soil-borne fungi attacking the stem. There's no cure, and the seeds won't resprout. Start over with clean containers and sterile seed-starting mix. Allow the soil surface to dry out slightly between waterings, and place a fan in the room for good air circulation. To disinfect used containers, sterilize them in a 10 percent bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water.) To learn more, read the article Damping Off
Mold and algae growth. If you see fuzzy white growth or slimy green patches on the surface of the planting mix, or on the outside of biodegradable pots, it's probably mold or algae. Although generally harmless to the seedling, they both indicate that the seed-starting mix is too wet. Allow it to dry out slightly between waterings and use a small fan in the room to increase air circulation.
Pale, stretched-out seedlings with weak stems. "Leggy" seedlings are often the result of inadequate light, both in intensity and duration. Place plants under grow lights, arranging them so the lights are a few inches above the tops of the plants, and keep the lights on for about 14 to 16 hours per day. Leggy plants can also result from too-warm room temperatures and overcrowding. Inadequate fertilizing can lead to pale, weak-stemmed plants.
Discolored leaves. If seedling foliage is pale green, yellowish green, or has a purple cast to it, the plants may need a nutrient boost. Begin fertilizing seedlings when they're an inch or two tall, or when they have their second set of true leaves. Use a water-soluble fertilizer that's diluted to half-strength, applying weekly for the first few weeks. After that, you can go up to full strength applied weekly. (Be sure to follow the label directions for dilution rates.)
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Crassula ovata, commonly called Jade Plant, is among the most common houseplants, although they are hardy outdoors to United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Native to southern Africa, this plant is easily recognized by its smooth, stubby, succulent leaves. They propagate easily from cuttings and because they are so tolerant of neglect, newly propagated Jade Plants make excellent gifts for new gardeners.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
1
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, also known as Flaming Katy is a tropical succulent that is native to Madagascar. This flowering plant is most commonly grown as a houseplant but grows well outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. A short-day plant, Flaming Katy produces blooms during the winter months. Young Flaming Katy plants have smooth stems and thick leaves. The plant roots readily from a vegetative shoot and many growers use this type of propagation for Kalanchoe blossfeldiana production. Commercial growers use intermittent mist and heat mats to propagate Flaming Katy, but you can make Flaming Katy cuttings without a professional setup.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings.
4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings.
4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. They sense the shorter days of winter and provide your garden with clustered red, yellow, orange, pink, purple, white and variant of these blooms in both winter and spring. Although these succulents can be propagated by seed in both indoor containers and outdoor gardens, growing new Kalanchoe plants from leaves is much simpler and less time-consuming. The ability of a new Kalanchoe to grow from a leaf allows the plant to reproduce successfully without developing energy-consuming seed pods, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Aloe vera plant grows on kitchen windowsills across the United States. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 11, Aloe vera is grown outdoors in mild winter locations along the West Coast, the Southwest and the South. A native of Africa, it thrives in warm, mild climates outdoors or as a houseplant in brightly lit windows and sunrooms. With sufficient light, water and fertilizer, a mature Aloe vera may produce a spike, up to 3 foot (90 cm) tall with yellow flowers in late winter. The real Aloe vera has yellow flowers, but many of the clones available have orange flowers.
Remove the babies, or pups, from your Aloe vera plant. Cut the connection between the mother plant and babies with a sharp knife if necessary. Allow the cut edges to dry for 24 hours before planting the babies in fresh potting soil. The baby plants take energy that the mother plant will now put into blooming.
Repot your mature Aloe vera in the fall. Select a new flowerpot three to four times the width of the old flowerpot. Remove the Aloe vera from the flowerpot and nestle it into a new planting mix of 1 part perlite and 2 parts potting soil. Tamp the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.
Place the Aloe vera in a brightly lit, south-facing window. Your Aloe vera requires as much light as possible to bloom.
Soak the soil with water when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering; allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Aloe vera are succulents and require sufficient water to bloom.
Fertilize in December or January with a diluted 10-40-10 liquid fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer with double the recommended amount of water. Water the plant as usual, then drench the soil with the fertilizer solution. Fertilize after watering rather than during watering to avoid damaging the plant’s root system.
Maintain a daytime temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 30 degrees Celsius). Aloe vera are subtropical plants, blooming in the summer in their native habitat. They require warmth to produce flower stalks.
Fill a tray with pebbles and water. Place the Aloe vera‘s flowerpot onto the tray to maintain the humidity around the plant. If your home is dry due to central heating, run a warm steam humidifier to raise the humidity in the room.
Place a small fan in the room to keep the air circulating. Good air circulation discourages mold, mildew and some pests, such as spider mites, from infesting your houseplants.
Tips
A mature Aloe vera plant is 4 or more years old. A cactus potting mix is a suitable substitute for the perlite and potting soil mixture. If the fleshy leaves begin to shrivel, water thoroughly and monitor the plant to ensure it’s receiving enough water.
Warnings
Aloe vera have spines on the ends of their fleshy leaves. Work cautiously when repotting to avoid puncture wounds. Never allow your Aloe vera to stand in water; the roots will rot and the plant will die.
Remove the babies, or pups, from your Aloe vera plant. Cut the connection between the mother plant and babies with a sharp knife if necessary. Allow the cut edges to dry for 24 hours before planting the babies in fresh potting soil. The baby plants take energy that the mother plant will now put into blooming.
Repot your mature Aloe vera in the fall. Select a new flowerpot three to four times the width of the old flowerpot. Remove the Aloe vera from the flowerpot and nestle it into a new planting mix of 1 part perlite and 2 parts potting soil. Tamp the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.
Place the Aloe vera in a brightly lit, south-facing window. Your Aloe vera requires as much light as possible to bloom.
Soak the soil with water when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering; allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Aloe vera are succulents and require sufficient water to bloom.
Fertilize in December or January with a diluted 10-40-10 liquid fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer with double the recommended amount of water. Water the plant as usual, then drench the soil with the fertilizer solution. Fertilize after watering rather than during watering to avoid damaging the plant’s root system.
Maintain a daytime temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 30 degrees Celsius). Aloe vera are subtropical plants, blooming in the summer in their native habitat. They require warmth to produce flower stalks.
Fill a tray with pebbles and water. Place the Aloe vera‘s flowerpot onto the tray to maintain the humidity around the plant. If your home is dry due to central heating, run a warm steam humidifier to raise the humidity in the room.
Place a small fan in the room to keep the air circulating. Good air circulation discourages mold, mildew and some pests, such as spider mites, from infesting your houseplants.
Tips
A mature Aloe vera plant is 4 or more years old. A cactus potting mix is a suitable substitute for the perlite and potting soil mixture. If the fleshy leaves begin to shrivel, water thoroughly and monitor the plant to ensure it’s receiving enough water.
Warnings
Aloe vera have spines on the ends of their fleshy leaves. Work cautiously when repotting to avoid puncture wounds. Never allow your Aloe vera to stand in water; the roots will rot and the plant will die.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’, commonly called Black Rose, is an ornamental succulent grown for its purplish-black foliage, which is arranged in a rosette shape. It grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it adds year-round visual interest to garden beds. Although typically problem-free, Black Rose plants may sometimes drop leaves. Most causes are temporary or avoidable, although some may indicate a serious issue that must be addressed to save the plant’s life.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Agave americana, commonly called the Century Plant, is a succulent desert plant native to Mexico. It can grow outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 to 10. The largest of the Agaves, mature plants range from 5 to 7 feet (1.5 to 2.1 m) tall with 8- to 12-foot (20 to 30 cm) spreads. Century Plant makes a dramatic accent plant with its blue or blue-gray leaves, black spines and showy, yellow-green flowers. Despite its renowned hardiness, Century Plant can still suffer from a few cultural, disease and pest problems.
Cultural Problems
Century Plant can tolerate various cultural conditions as long as it is planted in fast-draining soils. Poor-draining soils make the plant susceptible to the fungal pathogens that cause root rot. This Agave can survive down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius), but the broad, fleshy leaves will suffer from freeze damage if the temperature drops below freezing for several hours. Freeze-damaged tissue turns black, dries out and looks unsightly. The damage can’t be repaired, but most Century Plants will recover. Prevent freeze damage by covering the plant with a light, cotton sheet when your area is expecting a freeze.
Diseases
Although Century Plant isn’t associated with any serious disease problems, root rot can be problematic in poor-draining or overly moist soils. Root rot causes wilting, stunted growth and discolored leaves. Unfortunately, this fungal infection cannot be treated once it occurs. Anthracnose is another occasional problem that occurs when fungal pathogens thrive in overly moist soil conditions. This disease causes lesions to form on the leaves, with red or orange spore masses developing inside the sores. Remove any anthracnose-infected plant tissue promptly to prevent the disease from spreading.
Pest Problems
For the most part, Century Plant doesn’t have serious pest problems, but there is one exception. Root rot typically goes hand-in-hand with agave snout weevil infestations. Adult females chew through to the base of the plant to lay their eggs in the infected plant tissue. The larvae hatch and burrow their way into the heart of the plant. Severely infected Century Plants look wrinkled or shriveled and emit a foul odor. The rotting plant tissue eventually collapses and the plant dies. Controlling Agave snout weevil is difficult, but spraying the base of the plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide in the spring often helps prevent infestations from occurring.
Recommendations
Avoid Century Plant problems by providing your plant with the best possible growing conditions. These succulents perform best when planted in fully sunny areas, although they can handle some light shade. Century Plant grows best in sandy or gritty soils with dry to medium moisture. These drought-tolerant plants only need occasional watering in dry summer weather to remain healthy. Give the plant plenty of room to grow and make sure it is planted away from foot traffic. The sharp spines can poke you and cause your skin to swell painfully.
Cultural Problems
Century Plant can tolerate various cultural conditions as long as it is planted in fast-draining soils. Poor-draining soils make the plant susceptible to the fungal pathogens that cause root rot. This Agave can survive down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius), but the broad, fleshy leaves will suffer from freeze damage if the temperature drops below freezing for several hours. Freeze-damaged tissue turns black, dries out and looks unsightly. The damage can’t be repaired, but most Century Plants will recover. Prevent freeze damage by covering the plant with a light, cotton sheet when your area is expecting a freeze.
Diseases
Although Century Plant isn’t associated with any serious disease problems, root rot can be problematic in poor-draining or overly moist soils. Root rot causes wilting, stunted growth and discolored leaves. Unfortunately, this fungal infection cannot be treated once it occurs. Anthracnose is another occasional problem that occurs when fungal pathogens thrive in overly moist soil conditions. This disease causes lesions to form on the leaves, with red or orange spore masses developing inside the sores. Remove any anthracnose-infected plant tissue promptly to prevent the disease from spreading.
Pest Problems
For the most part, Century Plant doesn’t have serious pest problems, but there is one exception. Root rot typically goes hand-in-hand with agave snout weevil infestations. Adult females chew through to the base of the plant to lay their eggs in the infected plant tissue. The larvae hatch and burrow their way into the heart of the plant. Severely infected Century Plants look wrinkled or shriveled and emit a foul odor. The rotting plant tissue eventually collapses and the plant dies. Controlling Agave snout weevil is difficult, but spraying the base of the plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide in the spring often helps prevent infestations from occurring.
Recommendations
Avoid Century Plant problems by providing your plant with the best possible growing conditions. These succulents perform best when planted in fully sunny areas, although they can handle some light shade. Century Plant grows best in sandy or gritty soils with dry to medium moisture. These drought-tolerant plants only need occasional watering in dry summer weather to remain healthy. Give the plant plenty of room to grow and make sure it is planted away from foot traffic. The sharp spines can poke you and cause your skin to swell painfully.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
We have touched on specific ways to care for certain types of succulents in Ultimate Guide to Succulents: Types of Succulents. Some care instructions depend on your zone or whether the plant is outdoors or in a container. General guidelines for succulent care are below.
How Often To Water
Most succulents don’t need a lot of water. The general rule is to let the top half of the soil dry out before you water it again. In the summer, outdoor succulents generally need to be watered once a week. Water container plants two or three times a week.
You’ll usually reduce irrigation in lower temperatures even for indoor houseplants. However, different varieties of succulents require different amounts of water. Check with a local nursery or the company from which you bought the plant for specific watering instructions.
Propagating
Succulents are best grown from offsets or propagated leaves. If your plant sends out “pups”, you can remove those smaller “babies” and replant them.
You can also propagate the plants from leaves. Snap off a few of the lower leaves from the plant. To do this, hold the leaf close to the base. Wiggle and twist it until it separates from the stem. Choose healthy leaves, and propagate a few at a time. Not all of them will propagate. Leave the leaves in a cool, dry place for up to a week. The cut end should end up developing a hard callous that resembles a scab. Once that happens, you can begin to sprout new roots. Fill a shallow container with soil designed for potted succulents. Lay the leaves horizontally on top of the soil. The calloused end shouldn’t touch the soil.
Leave the container in indirect sunlight. Spray the top of the soil with water every day. It should be damp, but not wet. Don’t mist the soil if you live in a humid climate. In about a month, you’ll see roots growing from the cut end of the leaf toward the soil. You can lightly cover the roots with soil to prevent them from drying out. A miniature version of the plant will begin to grow upward from the cut end of the leaf. When that small plant develops its own root system and the original leaf begins to noticeably deteriorate, remove the leaf from the new plant in the same manner that you removed it from the mother plant. Be careful not to disturb the new roots. Replant the new succulent in its own pot. Use a small pot at first, and make sure to use cactus or succulent soil.
Soil
Succulents grow best in soil that drains well. Some types prefer nutrient-dense soil, but most do well as long as the soil isn’t too moist. Most garden stores sell soil that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you’re growing succulents in containers, you can use a mix of equal parts sand, potting soil, and perlite. Outdoor succulents should be fed with a low-balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) in spring and late summer. Use about half the recommended ratio of fertilizer to water. Only fertilize when the soil is dry.
Sunlight
Nearly all succulents flourish with a lot of light. Your plants should get approximately six hours of direct sunlight every day. Depending on your planting zone and the plant type, you may need to shade your succulents during the hottest part of the day.
Indoor succulents should be placed near a window. However, they shouldn’t get burned by direct sunlight. Succulents are relatively resilient when it comes to their sunlight needs. Less light may cause the colors to become dull. The plants may not bloom without sufficient UV light. However, they will survive in many lighting conditions.
Where to Buy Succulents
Once you start looking for succulents, you’ll notice that they’re sold in many different places. A local supplier may be able to provide you with succulents that are better for your area. Succulent plant groups can provide you with cuttings, succulent seeds or mature plants. Local botanical gardens may also sell succulents.
Many garden shops, from large chain stores to smaller local nurseries, carry succulents. However, it may be difficult to find rare or unusual species here. Succulents sold in garden shops are often already potted.
Some of the most beautiful, unique and vibrant succulents are difficult to find locally. Thank goodness for the internet. Many online vendors will ship these plants directly to you. You can choose the specific variety that you purchase. You can also often get a discount if you buy large sets of mixed varieties. Buying succulents in bulk online may be preferable if you’re trying to fill up a vertical garden or a large space. The plants are often sold in plugs that you can replant in the final destination.
Succulents are not expensive. You can get plants for anywhere from $2 to $10 on average. The price is often determined by the size and rareness of the plant. You can get them even more affordably by trading with other growers, propagating the leaves or replanting offsets.
Succulents have become increasingly more popular due to their ease of maintenance and unique style. There is a wide range of succulents to choose from so you should not have any trouble finding one to match your garden or style. This succulent guide was put together to make sure you have all the information possible that you could need before you get started.
How Often To Water
Most succulents don’t need a lot of water. The general rule is to let the top half of the soil dry out before you water it again. In the summer, outdoor succulents generally need to be watered once a week. Water container plants two or three times a week.
You’ll usually reduce irrigation in lower temperatures even for indoor houseplants. However, different varieties of succulents require different amounts of water. Check with a local nursery or the company from which you bought the plant for specific watering instructions.
Propagating
Succulents are best grown from offsets or propagated leaves. If your plant sends out “pups”, you can remove those smaller “babies” and replant them.
You can also propagate the plants from leaves. Snap off a few of the lower leaves from the plant. To do this, hold the leaf close to the base. Wiggle and twist it until it separates from the stem. Choose healthy leaves, and propagate a few at a time. Not all of them will propagate. Leave the leaves in a cool, dry place for up to a week. The cut end should end up developing a hard callous that resembles a scab. Once that happens, you can begin to sprout new roots. Fill a shallow container with soil designed for potted succulents. Lay the leaves horizontally on top of the soil. The calloused end shouldn’t touch the soil.
Leave the container in indirect sunlight. Spray the top of the soil with water every day. It should be damp, but not wet. Don’t mist the soil if you live in a humid climate. In about a month, you’ll see roots growing from the cut end of the leaf toward the soil. You can lightly cover the roots with soil to prevent them from drying out. A miniature version of the plant will begin to grow upward from the cut end of the leaf. When that small plant develops its own root system and the original leaf begins to noticeably deteriorate, remove the leaf from the new plant in the same manner that you removed it from the mother plant. Be careful not to disturb the new roots. Replant the new succulent in its own pot. Use a small pot at first, and make sure to use cactus or succulent soil.
Soil
Succulents grow best in soil that drains well. Some types prefer nutrient-dense soil, but most do well as long as the soil isn’t too moist. Most garden stores sell soil that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you’re growing succulents in containers, you can use a mix of equal parts sand, potting soil, and perlite. Outdoor succulents should be fed with a low-balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) in spring and late summer. Use about half the recommended ratio of fertilizer to water. Only fertilize when the soil is dry.
Sunlight
Nearly all succulents flourish with a lot of light. Your plants should get approximately six hours of direct sunlight every day. Depending on your planting zone and the plant type, you may need to shade your succulents during the hottest part of the day.
Indoor succulents should be placed near a window. However, they shouldn’t get burned by direct sunlight. Succulents are relatively resilient when it comes to their sunlight needs. Less light may cause the colors to become dull. The plants may not bloom without sufficient UV light. However, they will survive in many lighting conditions.
Where to Buy Succulents
Once you start looking for succulents, you’ll notice that they’re sold in many different places. A local supplier may be able to provide you with succulents that are better for your area. Succulent plant groups can provide you with cuttings, succulent seeds or mature plants. Local botanical gardens may also sell succulents.
Many garden shops, from large chain stores to smaller local nurseries, carry succulents. However, it may be difficult to find rare or unusual species here. Succulents sold in garden shops are often already potted.
Some of the most beautiful, unique and vibrant succulents are difficult to find locally. Thank goodness for the internet. Many online vendors will ship these plants directly to you. You can choose the specific variety that you purchase. You can also often get a discount if you buy large sets of mixed varieties. Buying succulents in bulk online may be preferable if you’re trying to fill up a vertical garden or a large space. The plants are often sold in plugs that you can replant in the final destination.
Succulents are not expensive. You can get plants for anywhere from $2 to $10 on average. The price is often determined by the size and rareness of the plant. You can get them even more affordably by trading with other growers, propagating the leaves or replanting offsets.
Succulents have become increasingly more popular due to their ease of maintenance and unique style. There is a wide range of succulents to choose from so you should not have any trouble finding one to match your garden or style. This succulent guide was put together to make sure you have all the information possible that you could need before you get started.
1
2
ZENizJEN：2085158243
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Narrow brown, white or opaque snaking trails in leaves often with round blistered patches. There may be clusters of white dots on leaves where the adults have been feeding.
Plants affected
A wide range of vegetable crops growing indoors or outdoors, especially tomatoes and peppers.
About Leaf miner flies
There are many species of leaf miner flies in the UK.
Adults are usually small, dark-coloured flies around 5mm long.
Some of the more destructive species have a characteristic yellow spot on their backs, and others have dark-patterned wings.
Eggs are laid on or into the upper or lower surfaces of leaves and hatch about a week later.
Larvae are grubs about 1cm long, usually white in colour, and feed on the tissue between the leaf surfaces. This creates the distinctive mined trails across the leaf surface.
As larvae grow the mined trails become wider.
Larvae feed for two to three weeks before pupating.
Pupation sites vary with species, either within or on leaves, or in the soil.
Some species over-winter as pupae whereas others feed continuously until spring.
There may be one or many generations per year depending on the species.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Leaf miner flies
Methiocarb
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regularly inspect plants all year round.
Remove and destroy infested leaves.
Crush larvae at the end of tunnels in leaves by hand.
In greenhouses, release the parasitic wasps Dacnusa sibirica and Diglyphus isaea.
Prevention
Remove any heavily infested plants.
Hang yellow sticky traps to monitor the fist sign of the flies.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging bird boxes and feeders.
Keep weeds under control, particularly groundsel and sowthistle as these are wild hosts.
Plants affected
A wide range of vegetable crops growing indoors or outdoors, especially tomatoes and peppers.
About Leaf miner flies
There are many species of leaf miner flies in the UK.
Adults are usually small, dark-coloured flies around 5mm long.
Some of the more destructive species have a characteristic yellow spot on their backs, and others have dark-patterned wings.
Eggs are laid on or into the upper or lower surfaces of leaves and hatch about a week later.
Larvae are grubs about 1cm long, usually white in colour, and feed on the tissue between the leaf surfaces. This creates the distinctive mined trails across the leaf surface.
As larvae grow the mined trails become wider.
Larvae feed for two to three weeks before pupating.
Pupation sites vary with species, either within or on leaves, or in the soil.
Some species over-winter as pupae whereas others feed continuously until spring.
There may be one or many generations per year depending on the species.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Leaf miner flies
Methiocarb
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regularly inspect plants all year round.
Remove and destroy infested leaves.
Crush larvae at the end of tunnels in leaves by hand.
In greenhouses, release the parasitic wasps Dacnusa sibirica and Diglyphus isaea.
Prevention
Remove any heavily infested plants.
Hang yellow sticky traps to monitor the fist sign of the flies.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging bird boxes and feeders.
Keep weeds under control, particularly groundsel and sowthistle as these are wild hosts.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Springtails are tiny, wingless, moisture-loving creatures that seek dampness outdoors and in. They are frequently found clustered together in dense swarms. When disturbed, they spring into the air, as high as several inches, creating easily visible clouds.
Outside, they’re found in wet soil, decaying straw, rotting leaves and other damp organic material. They feed on molds, fungi and algae.
As soils dry, the insects search out more moist conditions, a move that often brings them inside homes where they gather in garages, basements and greenhouses as well in damp floorboards, carpets, under kitchen sinks and in the soil of potted houseplants.
No longer considered true insects because of their internal chewing mechanism — insects have external chewing parts — springtails make up the order Collembola. They can be as much as 1/16 inch long but before reaching maturity are just a fraction this size. They come in all shades of brown and gray as well as black and white.
Springtails become conspicuous as they gather in large clusters that resemble balls or swatches of fabric. Springing into the air, seemingly all at once, when exposed or disturbed, makes them even more conspicuous. This leaping is done by means of an external body part known as a furcula which is folded under its abdomen. When released, the furcula pops the tiny bug a few inches into the air.
Life Cycle
Springtails reproduce quickly, going from egg to adult stage in as little as four to six weeks. Mature males leave packets of sperm cells in the soil where they live. These are picked up by females as they lay their eggs, either in packets or singly. Depending on temperature conditions, the eggs hatch within five to ten days.
Nymphs resemble the adults. During the five or six weeks they spend as nymphs, they go through several stages before becoming adults, molting and becoming larger in each. Outdoors, springtails can survive through an entire season, reproducing a number of times. Indoors, they can live as long as a year.
Damage
Springtails are mostly a nuisance pest, doing little damage to plants. They will chew roots in the soil where they’re located, and can inhibit plant hardiness. But they seldom do major damage.
These nearly invisible bugs do not bite or sting and are generally harmless to humans. But they are an unpleasant house guest and finding a swarm of them under a carpet or around a basement drain requires cleanup to prevent ongoing populations or masses of dead insects that are less than sanitary.
The presence of springtails in your bathroom or carpets is an indication of dampness that provides clues to possible larger problems such as leaky pipes or roofs, poorly sealed tubs and sinks and porous basement walls. Treating pest infestations often requires house repairs and other fixes.
Springtails will cluster inside the walls of newly built homes that were exposed to rain or high humidity during framing and not allowed to completely dry. The pests presence inside walls can be an indication that mold and fungus might be present.
Springtails can be a major nuisance around outdoor swimming pools where they will often cover the water’s surface as they die off. Though they hold no danger to humans, this bug scum makes for a poor pool experiences. The creature’s tiny size and great numbers can make them difficult to skim.
Hydroponics and Indoor Garden Control
Because of their moisture levels, indoor growing spaces are particularly susceptible to springtail infestations. In hydroponic growing systems, the pests will cluster at the edge of grow-tank and in exposed root crowns of plants. Careful periodic inspections and removal can help keep populations down.
While it’s often claimed that springtails do little noticeable damage, they will feed on roots and moist plant matter, causing “leaf stipling” (yellowing) and cause other harm to growth and vigor. Still, many growers choose to tolerate them rather than treat them. If you choose to co-exist with them, make sure you’ve positively identified them and aren’t mistaking them for some pest like spider mites that can cause extensive damage.
Wipe up pest colonies around the rims of trays, near drains and other damp places in your grow space. Large colonies on floors or on stands can be vacuumed with a shop-vac.
If springtails have become such a nuisance they must be sprayed, use an OMRI listed for organic production compound such as azadirachtin, an anti-feedant and insect growth regulator (IGR) that controls pests through starvation and growth disruption.
Potted Plants
Springtails enter homes through window screens, open doors and windows, vent pipes or in potted plants. They are attracted to indoor moisture, especially as the outdoors dries. They may be attracted to light, entering through windows, under doors or through cracks in the foundation.
Keep springtails away from your home by keeping leaves, grass and other organic matter away from the foundation. Fill every crack the foundation may have, even beneath the soil line as possible. Make sure seals around windows and doors are tight.
Use crawling insect killers with diatomaceous earth to repel the pests around places where they might enter.
Springtails frequently occur in the soil of potted plants. Inspect the potting mixture of every plant you intend to bring home by testing it with your thumbs and watching for springing. Lichen or other soil covers that are organic food sources for the pests should be examined carefully. Be especially cautious if plants show signs of excess moisture. If you suspect insect activity, quarantine house plants, preferably outside, to allow the soil to completely dry before bringing them in.
Letting soil dry completely as possible is the best way to deal with infested pots already in the home.
Sprinkle Safer Brand diatomaceous earth on potted soils to help them dry and to repel springtails.
If infestations in potted plants persist, use a non-toxic, biodegradable soil drench to kill and repel the bugs. (More than one application may be required.)
After a hot day, they may congregate on the side of a building in tremendous numbers, increasing the chance of indoor infestation. If you spot an infestation inside or out, use a wet -dry shop-vac with a small amount of soapy water in its collection tank to vacuum them up.
Use fans to thoroughly dry any area of the house, including inside walls (as possible) where springtails have been found. Repair roof leaks, cracks in siding and any other places where moisture might enter the house.
Keep areas around sink faucets and drains clear and clean of molds and other growth that might used as a food source. Remove scum and hair from beneath sink drains. If you suspect springtails in your drain pipes, clean as thoroughly as possible and rinse them with vinegar. (Never pour any type of pesticide down a drain.)
House plant soil, especially those with lichen or moss, can be a hotbed of springtail reproduction. Inspect any potted houseplants you buy for signs of infestation before bringing them inside. Once inside the house, don’t over water. Allowing soil to dry completely between watering discourages them from staying around.
Outdoor Control
Because they only infrequently damage plants, there’s little reason to control springtails outdoors unless their numbers become a nuisance. The comprehensive Integrated Pest Management website at the University of California says outdoor use of pesticides aren’t effective against this pest and won’t provide long-term control by themselves.
To discourage the bugs in gardens and landscapes, remove their favored habitat, namely damp, organic matter. Compacted mulch protects colonies that thrive beneath it. Refrain from adding compost and other organic material to the soil until the pests have disappeared.
Allowing soils to dry completely before watering prevents them from getting established, sending them away in search of wetter territory. Reduce watering in vegetable or ornamental gardens that host springtails and allow soils to dry completely before watering.
Don’t expect to eliminate them entirely where moist conditions naturally persist. Frequent turning of straw mulches and compost heaps, disturbs eggs and exposes nymphs to drier surface conditions helping to keep their numbers down. But because of their size, many will escape.
Outside, they’re found in wet soil, decaying straw, rotting leaves and other damp organic material. They feed on molds, fungi and algae.
As soils dry, the insects search out more moist conditions, a move that often brings them inside homes where they gather in garages, basements and greenhouses as well in damp floorboards, carpets, under kitchen sinks and in the soil of potted houseplants.
No longer considered true insects because of their internal chewing mechanism — insects have external chewing parts — springtails make up the order Collembola. They can be as much as 1/16 inch long but before reaching maturity are just a fraction this size. They come in all shades of brown and gray as well as black and white.
Springtails become conspicuous as they gather in large clusters that resemble balls or swatches of fabric. Springing into the air, seemingly all at once, when exposed or disturbed, makes them even more conspicuous. This leaping is done by means of an external body part known as a furcula which is folded under its abdomen. When released, the furcula pops the tiny bug a few inches into the air.
Life Cycle
Springtails reproduce quickly, going from egg to adult stage in as little as four to six weeks. Mature males leave packets of sperm cells in the soil where they live. These are picked up by females as they lay their eggs, either in packets or singly. Depending on temperature conditions, the eggs hatch within five to ten days.
Nymphs resemble the adults. During the five or six weeks they spend as nymphs, they go through several stages before becoming adults, molting and becoming larger in each. Outdoors, springtails can survive through an entire season, reproducing a number of times. Indoors, they can live as long as a year.
Damage
Springtails are mostly a nuisance pest, doing little damage to plants. They will chew roots in the soil where they’re located, and can inhibit plant hardiness. But they seldom do major damage.
These nearly invisible bugs do not bite or sting and are generally harmless to humans. But they are an unpleasant house guest and finding a swarm of them under a carpet or around a basement drain requires cleanup to prevent ongoing populations or masses of dead insects that are less than sanitary.
The presence of springtails in your bathroom or carpets is an indication of dampness that provides clues to possible larger problems such as leaky pipes or roofs, poorly sealed tubs and sinks and porous basement walls. Treating pest infestations often requires house repairs and other fixes.
Springtails will cluster inside the walls of newly built homes that were exposed to rain or high humidity during framing and not allowed to completely dry. The pests presence inside walls can be an indication that mold and fungus might be present.
Springtails can be a major nuisance around outdoor swimming pools where they will often cover the water’s surface as they die off. Though they hold no danger to humans, this bug scum makes for a poor pool experiences. The creature’s tiny size and great numbers can make them difficult to skim.
Hydroponics and Indoor Garden Control
Because of their moisture levels, indoor growing spaces are particularly susceptible to springtail infestations. In hydroponic growing systems, the pests will cluster at the edge of grow-tank and in exposed root crowns of plants. Careful periodic inspections and removal can help keep populations down.
While it’s often claimed that springtails do little noticeable damage, they will feed on roots and moist plant matter, causing “leaf stipling” (yellowing) and cause other harm to growth and vigor. Still, many growers choose to tolerate them rather than treat them. If you choose to co-exist with them, make sure you’ve positively identified them and aren’t mistaking them for some pest like spider mites that can cause extensive damage.
Wipe up pest colonies around the rims of trays, near drains and other damp places in your grow space. Large colonies on floors or on stands can be vacuumed with a shop-vac.
If springtails have become such a nuisance they must be sprayed, use an OMRI listed for organic production compound such as azadirachtin, an anti-feedant and insect growth regulator (IGR) that controls pests through starvation and growth disruption.
Potted Plants
Springtails enter homes through window screens, open doors and windows, vent pipes or in potted plants. They are attracted to indoor moisture, especially as the outdoors dries. They may be attracted to light, entering through windows, under doors or through cracks in the foundation.
Keep springtails away from your home by keeping leaves, grass and other organic matter away from the foundation. Fill every crack the foundation may have, even beneath the soil line as possible. Make sure seals around windows and doors are tight.
Use crawling insect killers with diatomaceous earth to repel the pests around places where they might enter.
Springtails frequently occur in the soil of potted plants. Inspect the potting mixture of every plant you intend to bring home by testing it with your thumbs and watching for springing. Lichen or other soil covers that are organic food sources for the pests should be examined carefully. Be especially cautious if plants show signs of excess moisture. If you suspect insect activity, quarantine house plants, preferably outside, to allow the soil to completely dry before bringing them in.
Letting soil dry completely as possible is the best way to deal with infested pots already in the home.
Sprinkle Safer Brand diatomaceous earth on potted soils to help them dry and to repel springtails.
If infestations in potted plants persist, use a non-toxic, biodegradable soil drench to kill and repel the bugs. (More than one application may be required.)
After a hot day, they may congregate on the side of a building in tremendous numbers, increasing the chance of indoor infestation. If you spot an infestation inside or out, use a wet -dry shop-vac with a small amount of soapy water in its collection tank to vacuum them up.
Use fans to thoroughly dry any area of the house, including inside walls (as possible) where springtails have been found. Repair roof leaks, cracks in siding and any other places where moisture might enter the house.
Keep areas around sink faucets and drains clear and clean of molds and other growth that might used as a food source. Remove scum and hair from beneath sink drains. If you suspect springtails in your drain pipes, clean as thoroughly as possible and rinse them with vinegar. (Never pour any type of pesticide down a drain.)
House plant soil, especially those with lichen or moss, can be a hotbed of springtail reproduction. Inspect any potted houseplants you buy for signs of infestation before bringing them inside. Once inside the house, don’t over water. Allowing soil to dry completely between watering discourages them from staying around.
Outdoor Control
Because they only infrequently damage plants, there’s little reason to control springtails outdoors unless their numbers become a nuisance. The comprehensive Integrated Pest Management website at the University of California says outdoor use of pesticides aren’t effective against this pest and won’t provide long-term control by themselves.
To discourage the bugs in gardens and landscapes, remove their favored habitat, namely damp, organic matter. Compacted mulch protects colonies that thrive beneath it. Refrain from adding compost and other organic material to the soil until the pests have disappeared.
Allowing soils to dry completely before watering prevents them from getting established, sending them away in search of wetter territory. Reduce watering in vegetable or ornamental gardens that host springtails and allow soils to dry completely before watering.
Don’t expect to eliminate them entirely where moist conditions naturally persist. Frequent turning of straw mulches and compost heaps, disturbs eggs and exposes nymphs to drier surface conditions helping to keep their numbers down. But because of their size, many will escape.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
The Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis) is a beautiful tree, native to the warm Canary Islands. You can consider planting a Canary Island date palm outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, or indoors in a container anywhere. With its shiny, feathery fronds, arching branches and ornamental fruit, this tree is not of the low-maintenance school. You’ll want to read up on care of Canary Island palm trees to be sure the plant stays healthy and happy.
Information on Canary Date Palms
If you are dreaming of Canary palm trees growing in your backyard, you’ll need lots of room. Information on Canary date palms lists these trees as growing up to 65 feet tall with a potential spread of 40 feet. However, planting a Canary Island date palm is not entirely out of the question if you have a small backyard. Canary palm trees growing speed is slow, and your specimen will only get to 10 feet tall during its first 15 years in the backyard. Other information on Canary date palms notes the long leaves of the species – from 8 to 20 feet long – and the extremely sharp spines at the frond base. The trunk can grow to 4 feet in diameter. Small white or gray blossoms produce showy ornamental date-like fruits in the summer.
Care of Canary Island Palm Trees
Planting a Canary Island date palm requires a full sun location and plenty of irrigation when the palm is young. As far as Canary palm tree care, think about providing water every week to help the plant establish deep roots. Once the tree is mature, you can reduce irrigation. Canary palm tree care includes feeding the tree. You’ll want to fertilize it every spring just before new growth appears. These trees need high levels of potassium and magnesium as part of Canary palm tree care. They can easily come down with deficiencies of these nutrients under landscape conditions. You’ll identify potassium deficiency by the pale color or spotting of the oldest fronds. As the deficiency progresses, the frond tips get brown and brittle.
Your tree has a magnesium deficiency if you see lemon yellow bands along the outer margins of older leaves. Sometimes, the trees have both potassium and magnesium deficiencies at the same time. Fortunately, the palm usually has few disease or pest issues.
Information on Canary Date Palms
If you are dreaming of Canary palm trees growing in your backyard, you’ll need lots of room. Information on Canary date palms lists these trees as growing up to 65 feet tall with a potential spread of 40 feet. However, planting a Canary Island date palm is not entirely out of the question if you have a small backyard. Canary palm trees growing speed is slow, and your specimen will only get to 10 feet tall during its first 15 years in the backyard. Other information on Canary date palms notes the long leaves of the species – from 8 to 20 feet long – and the extremely sharp spines at the frond base. The trunk can grow to 4 feet in diameter. Small white or gray blossoms produce showy ornamental date-like fruits in the summer.
Care of Canary Island Palm Trees
Planting a Canary Island date palm requires a full sun location and plenty of irrigation when the palm is young. As far as Canary palm tree care, think about providing water every week to help the plant establish deep roots. Once the tree is mature, you can reduce irrigation. Canary palm tree care includes feeding the tree. You’ll want to fertilize it every spring just before new growth appears. These trees need high levels of potassium and magnesium as part of Canary palm tree care. They can easily come down with deficiencies of these nutrients under landscape conditions. You’ll identify potassium deficiency by the pale color or spotting of the oldest fronds. As the deficiency progresses, the frond tips get brown and brittle.
Your tree has a magnesium deficiency if you see lemon yellow bands along the outer margins of older leaves. Sometimes, the trees have both potassium and magnesium deficiencies at the same time. Fortunately, the palm usually has few disease or pest issues.
1
1
