文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Few things evoke the tropics like a palm tree. Growing palm trees outdoors in northern climates can be challenging due to their frost intolerance but some, like cabbage palm and Chinese fan palms, will survive temperatures to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9 C.) when mature. Warm climates get their pick of palm tree choices. No matter where you have the plant, knowledge on how to take care of palm trees will help you have a healthy specimen standing proudly in your garden.
Palm Tree Choices
Palm tree care starts with proper selection of species. Choose one that is hardy in your region and situate it where it gets adequate light and has excellent drainage. There are many varieties of palms from which to choose, but consideration should also be taken as to the plants mature size. Some are towering plants and don’t fit into many home landscape situations.
Hardy palms are those that can withstand light freezes and even a bit of snow. In addition to Chinese and cabbage palms, the following palms are all good choices for temperate regions with some cold weather:
Bismarck
Mexican fan
Needle
Sago
Pindo
Windmill
The classic varieties found in places like California and Florida would be:
Palmetto
Mediterranean fan
California fan
Coconut
Queen palm
Royal palm
You can also select the cold hardy varieties for warm season growing. Larger trees should be grown in ground while smaller varieties, such as sago, are useful for growing palm trees outdoors in containers.
How to Take Care of Palm Trees
Once you have your selection site, preparation is crucial to a healthy plant. Excessively alkaline soil should be amended with sulfur. The area should have organic nutrients over a large area since palm tree roots will spread and should have access to these nutrients many feet from the trunk. Take care not to bury the trunk in soil when planting a palm tree, as this could cause rot. Water the root ball before back filling the hole. Spread mulch several feet from the trunk out around the root zone to provide supplemental nourishment over time as it composts. Replace the mulch annually.
Palm Tree Care Over the Years
After planting a palm tree, it needs supplemental watering until it establishes. Do not let the soil dry out completely for the first several months, but also do not let it stand soggy or you will invite fungal issues. In the first year, do a foliar feeding in spring and a time release granular feeding with a 3-1-3 ratio every 4 months. Once the plant has been in the ground a year, apply only the granular feed. Prune off dead fronds as they occur. If you need to prune to maintain size, only prune off the bottom to middle fronds. Topping a tree is not recommended which is why it is important at purchase to consider the mature size.
With very little palm tree care, these majestic plants will live in your landscape for a generation or more, providing shade, dimension and exotic beauty.
Palm Tree Choices
Palm tree care starts with proper selection of species. Choose one that is hardy in your region and situate it where it gets adequate light and has excellent drainage. There are many varieties of palms from which to choose, but consideration should also be taken as to the plants mature size. Some are towering plants and don’t fit into many home landscape situations.
Hardy palms are those that can withstand light freezes and even a bit of snow. In addition to Chinese and cabbage palms, the following palms are all good choices for temperate regions with some cold weather:
Bismarck
Mexican fan
Needle
Sago
Pindo
Windmill
The classic varieties found in places like California and Florida would be:
Palmetto
Mediterranean fan
California fan
Coconut
Queen palm
Royal palm
You can also select the cold hardy varieties for warm season growing. Larger trees should be grown in ground while smaller varieties, such as sago, are useful for growing palm trees outdoors in containers.
How to Take Care of Palm Trees
Once you have your selection site, preparation is crucial to a healthy plant. Excessively alkaline soil should be amended with sulfur. The area should have organic nutrients over a large area since palm tree roots will spread and should have access to these nutrients many feet from the trunk. Take care not to bury the trunk in soil when planting a palm tree, as this could cause rot. Water the root ball before back filling the hole. Spread mulch several feet from the trunk out around the root zone to provide supplemental nourishment over time as it composts. Replace the mulch annually.
Palm Tree Care Over the Years
After planting a palm tree, it needs supplemental watering until it establishes. Do not let the soil dry out completely for the first several months, but also do not let it stand soggy or you will invite fungal issues. In the first year, do a foliar feeding in spring and a time release granular feeding with a 3-1-3 ratio every 4 months. Once the plant has been in the ground a year, apply only the granular feed. Prune off dead fronds as they occur. If you need to prune to maintain size, only prune off the bottom to middle fronds. Topping a tree is not recommended which is why it is important at purchase to consider the mature size.
With very little palm tree care, these majestic plants will live in your landscape for a generation or more, providing shade, dimension and exotic beauty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
While most types of brugmansia, or angel trumpets, can thrive year round outdoors in warmer climates, they need to be protected from freezing temperatures, especially when growing brugmansia in cold climates. Therefore, wintering brugmansia indoors is oftentimes recommended. Follow these tips for over-wintering brugmansia in your home.
Growing Brugmansia in Cold Climates
Over-wintering brugmansia indoors is an important part of brugmansia maintenance in cold climates. To make this endeavor easier, it’s better to grow brugmansia plants in containers. Container grown plants can be easily moved indoors for brugmansia winter care.
Brugmansia Winter Care Preparation
Prior to bringing brugmansia indoors for winter dormancy, it’s a good idea to cut the plant back. Likewise, outdoor brugmansia plants in warmer climates should also be cut back to the ground and mulched generously. To ensure continuous plants, in the event something goes wrong, you may also want to consider rooting the cuttings taken during pruning. Once temperatures drop below 50 F. (10 C.). outside, it is time to take steps for wintering brugmansia. Place the plant in a dark, poorly lit location, such as the basement or even a closet, for winter storage. Less light and cooler temperatures (40-50 F./5-10 C.) are important for dormancy. Continue to water brugmansia sparingly about once a month to prevent the plant from drying out completely. However, do not fertilize it. Allow brugmansia to enter dormancy as normal. Complete leaf drop during this time is normal for brugmansia over winter.
Wintering Brugmansia as Houseplants
Some people prefer to grow brugmansia over winter as houseplants rather than allowing them to go dormant. This is fine. While some species of brugmansia may continue to develop buds throughout winter, in order to encourage blooming, the brugmansia will require significant light. Place brugmansia in a south-facing window where it will receive plenty of sunlight and treat it as a houseplant throughout winter, watering about once a week. Likewise, they can be placed in a greenhouse. While the plant may begin dropping leaves once it’s brought indoors, this is a normal response and nothing to be concerned about.
Growing brugmansia in cold climates requires a little extra effort, but it is well worth it in order to have these lovely plants in your garden year after year.
Growing Brugmansia in Cold Climates
Over-wintering brugmansia indoors is an important part of brugmansia maintenance in cold climates. To make this endeavor easier, it’s better to grow brugmansia plants in containers. Container grown plants can be easily moved indoors for brugmansia winter care.
Brugmansia Winter Care Preparation
Prior to bringing brugmansia indoors for winter dormancy, it’s a good idea to cut the plant back. Likewise, outdoor brugmansia plants in warmer climates should also be cut back to the ground and mulched generously. To ensure continuous plants, in the event something goes wrong, you may also want to consider rooting the cuttings taken during pruning. Once temperatures drop below 50 F. (10 C.). outside, it is time to take steps for wintering brugmansia. Place the plant in a dark, poorly lit location, such as the basement or even a closet, for winter storage. Less light and cooler temperatures (40-50 F./5-10 C.) are important for dormancy. Continue to water brugmansia sparingly about once a month to prevent the plant from drying out completely. However, do not fertilize it. Allow brugmansia to enter dormancy as normal. Complete leaf drop during this time is normal for brugmansia over winter.
Wintering Brugmansia as Houseplants
Some people prefer to grow brugmansia over winter as houseplants rather than allowing them to go dormant. This is fine. While some species of brugmansia may continue to develop buds throughout winter, in order to encourage blooming, the brugmansia will require significant light. Place brugmansia in a south-facing window where it will receive plenty of sunlight and treat it as a houseplant throughout winter, watering about once a week. Likewise, they can be placed in a greenhouse. While the plant may begin dropping leaves once it’s brought indoors, this is a normal response and nothing to be concerned about.
Growing brugmansia in cold climates requires a little extra effort, but it is well worth it in order to have these lovely plants in your garden year after year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knock Out roses are hardy down to USDA Zone 5. They can be planted outdoors in USDA Zone 7 (average annual minimum temperature range of 0 degrees F to 10 degrees F) in the spring after the last hard frost and in the fall, up to six weeks before the first hard frost. There are advantages and disadvantages to be weighed for the timing of planting that largely depend on your climate. In any case, it's best to avoid the heat stress of the peak of summer or the cold temperatures and hard-to-work soil of winter in most climates.
Spring Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in Zone 7 in early spring, after the last hard frost has passed. Spring soil is often wet and muddy, and rainy conditions weigh against spring planting. In climates where there are minimal spring rains, this is of little concern; in climates where spring rains are heavy, planting can be done on a dry day. Spring planting as early as possible (without frost) makes for a long growing and blooming season for Knock Outs, which will continue to bloom in cycles until the first hard frost of winter. Spring-planted Knock Outs will begin to grow again in two to three weeks after planting and come into bloom in six to eight weeks after that. Because spring-planted Knock Outs have the entire summer and fall to establish their root systems, they're well poised to survive winter undamaged.
Fall Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in the early fall in Zone 7. Planting Knock Outs in September, October and even the first week of November can be done safely. This allows the roots to become settled before the cold of winter. Fall planting also holds the advantage of a drier climate and better soil condition, which can reduce mildew and rust on the rose--though Knock Outs are known to be fairly disease resistant anyway. Roses planted in the fall are also more likely to bloom earlier in the spring because they're already well established. The downside of fall planting can be that the selection of roses available in your garden center and direct from growers is much smaller, unless you reserved or pre-ordered them.
Spring Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in Zone 7 in early spring, after the last hard frost has passed. Spring soil is often wet and muddy, and rainy conditions weigh against spring planting. In climates where there are minimal spring rains, this is of little concern; in climates where spring rains are heavy, planting can be done on a dry day. Spring planting as early as possible (without frost) makes for a long growing and blooming season for Knock Outs, which will continue to bloom in cycles until the first hard frost of winter. Spring-planted Knock Outs will begin to grow again in two to three weeks after planting and come into bloom in six to eight weeks after that. Because spring-planted Knock Outs have the entire summer and fall to establish their root systems, they're well poised to survive winter undamaged.
Fall Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in the early fall in Zone 7. Planting Knock Outs in September, October and even the first week of November can be done safely. This allows the roots to become settled before the cold of winter. Fall planting also holds the advantage of a drier climate and better soil condition, which can reduce mildew and rust on the rose--though Knock Outs are known to be fairly disease resistant anyway. Roses planted in the fall are also more likely to bloom earlier in the spring because they're already well established. The downside of fall planting can be that the selection of roses available in your garden center and direct from growers is much smaller, unless you reserved or pre-ordered them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Have you ever thought about growing hosta indoors? Typically, hostas are grown outdoors in shady or semi-shady areas, either in the ground or in containers. However, just because growing hosta as an indoor plant isn’t the norm, that doesn’t mean it can’t be done – beautifully! Read on to learn how to grow hosta indoors.
Can I Grow Hosta Inside?
Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.
How to Grow Hosta Indoors
Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or other organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry.
Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.
Can I Grow Hosta Inside?
Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.
How to Grow Hosta Indoors
Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or other organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry.
Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Can I grow coleus indoors? Sure, why not? Although coleus is typically grown outdoors as an annual, its vibrant leaves provide many months of enjoyment indoors if growing conditions are just right. In fact, coleus plants respond well to potted environments. Read on to learn more about growing coleus as an indoor plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The autumn frost signals the end to the garden for the year, as well as the end of fresh-grown herbs picked from outdoors and brought in for food and teas. Creative gardeners are asking, “Can you grow herbs in water?” Instead of dealing with potting soil and planters, why not find some herbs that can grow in water and set up a row of attractive vases on your windowsill? Stems of perennial herbs will grow roots in glasses or jars of plain water, adding to your kitchen décor as well as producing new leaves and buds for use in fresh dishes through the cold winter months.
Herbs That Root in Water
Herbs that root in water and grow through the winter months are perennial herbs. Annual herbs are designed by nature to grow one season, produce seeds, and then die. Perennials will keep coming back and producing more leaves as long as you keep pinching off the older leaves as they grow to full size.
Some of the easiest and most popular herbs grown in water are:
Sage
Stevia
Thyme
Mint
Basil
Oregano
Lemon balm
The basic rule is if you like to use it and it’s a perennial, it will likely grow in water over the winter.
How to Grow Herb Plants in Water
This project is simple enough that you can teach your children how to grow herb plants in water and use this as an educational bit of entertainment. Begin with stems of herb plants from your garden, or even some perennial herbs from the grocery store. Clip stems about 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom 4 inches of the stems. If you’re using grocery store herbs, cut off the bottom of each stem to allow it to absorb the most water. Fill a large-mouthed jar or glass with clear water from the tap or bottle, but avoid distilled water. Distilling removes some essential minerals that allow the herbs to grow. If you use a clear glass container, you’ll have to change the water more frequently, as algae will form more rapidly in a clear glass. Opaque glass is best. If you are determined to use that great-looking clear jar, tape construction paper to one side of the jar to keep sunlight from the water.
Herbs that root in water do so partly by absorbing moisture through the bottom of the stem, so clip each stem end at an angle to increase the area for the stem to use. Place the herb stems in the jars filled with water and place them in a spot where they get at least six hours of sunlight each day. Growing herbs in water will give you a small but steady supply through the winter. Clip each leaf as it grows to full size. This will encourage the stem to produce more leaves at the top. The stem will grow for months in this way, long enough to keep your kitchen in fresh herbs until the next generation of plants grows in the spring.
Herbs That Root in Water
Herbs that root in water and grow through the winter months are perennial herbs. Annual herbs are designed by nature to grow one season, produce seeds, and then die. Perennials will keep coming back and producing more leaves as long as you keep pinching off the older leaves as they grow to full size.
Some of the easiest and most popular herbs grown in water are:
Sage
Stevia
Thyme
Mint
Basil
Oregano
Lemon balm
The basic rule is if you like to use it and it’s a perennial, it will likely grow in water over the winter.
How to Grow Herb Plants in Water
This project is simple enough that you can teach your children how to grow herb plants in water and use this as an educational bit of entertainment. Begin with stems of herb plants from your garden, or even some perennial herbs from the grocery store. Clip stems about 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom 4 inches of the stems. If you’re using grocery store herbs, cut off the bottom of each stem to allow it to absorb the most water. Fill a large-mouthed jar or glass with clear water from the tap or bottle, but avoid distilled water. Distilling removes some essential minerals that allow the herbs to grow. If you use a clear glass container, you’ll have to change the water more frequently, as algae will form more rapidly in a clear glass. Opaque glass is best. If you are determined to use that great-looking clear jar, tape construction paper to one side of the jar to keep sunlight from the water.
Herbs that root in water do so partly by absorbing moisture through the bottom of the stem, so clip each stem end at an angle to increase the area for the stem to use. Place the herb stems in the jars filled with water and place them in a spot where they get at least six hours of sunlight each day. Growing herbs in water will give you a small but steady supply through the winter. Clip each leaf as it grows to full size. This will encourage the stem to produce more leaves at the top. The stem will grow for months in this way, long enough to keep your kitchen in fresh herbs until the next generation of plants grows in the spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Did you know that you can grow your own tea? Tea (Camellia sinensis) is an evergreen shrub native to China that can be grown outdoors in USDA zones 7-9. For those in cooler zones, consider growing tea plants in pots. Camellia sinensis makes an excellent container grown tea plant as it is a smaller shrub that when contained will only reach a height of about 6 feet (under 2 meters). Read on to find out about growing tea at home and tea plant container care.
About Growing Tea at Home
Tea is grown in 45 countries and is worth billions of dollars to the world’s economy annually. While tea plants are adapted to tropical areas and lowland areas of the subtropics, growing tea plants in pots allows the gardener to control temperatures. Although tea plants are hardy and will generally survive to just under freezing temperatures, they may still be damaged or killed. This means that in cooler climates, tea lovers can grow plants inside provided they give plenty of light and warm temps. Tea plant harvesting is done in the spring with the new flush of leaves. Only the young green leaves are used to make tea. Winter pruning will not only keep the plant a manageable size for containers, but engender a new burst of young leaves.
Tea Plant Container Care
Container grown tea plants should be planted in a pot with plenty of drainage holes, that is 2 times the size of the root ball. Fill the bottom third of the pot with well-draining, acidic potting soil. Place the tea plant atop the soil and fill in around it with more soil, leaving the crown of the plant just above the soil. Place the plant in an area with bright, indirect light and with temperatures about 70 F. (21 C.). Keep the plant well watered but do not allow the roots to become water logged. Water until the water runs out of the drainage holes. Allow the soil to drain and don’t let the container sit in water. Let the top few inches of soil dry between watering.
Fertilize the container grown tea plant during its active growing season, from spring through fall. At this time, apply an acidic plant fertilizer every 3 weeks, diluted to half the strength according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Prune the tea plant yearly after it blooms. Also remove any dead or damaged branches. To restrict the height of the plant and/or to facilitate new growth, prune the shrub back by about half its height. If the roots begin to outgrow the container, repot the plant into a larger container or trim the roots to fit the pot. Repot as needed, usually every 2-4 years.
About Growing Tea at Home
Tea is grown in 45 countries and is worth billions of dollars to the world’s economy annually. While tea plants are adapted to tropical areas and lowland areas of the subtropics, growing tea plants in pots allows the gardener to control temperatures. Although tea plants are hardy and will generally survive to just under freezing temperatures, they may still be damaged or killed. This means that in cooler climates, tea lovers can grow plants inside provided they give plenty of light and warm temps. Tea plant harvesting is done in the spring with the new flush of leaves. Only the young green leaves are used to make tea. Winter pruning will not only keep the plant a manageable size for containers, but engender a new burst of young leaves.
Tea Plant Container Care
Container grown tea plants should be planted in a pot with plenty of drainage holes, that is 2 times the size of the root ball. Fill the bottom third of the pot with well-draining, acidic potting soil. Place the tea plant atop the soil and fill in around it with more soil, leaving the crown of the plant just above the soil. Place the plant in an area with bright, indirect light and with temperatures about 70 F. (21 C.). Keep the plant well watered but do not allow the roots to become water logged. Water until the water runs out of the drainage holes. Allow the soil to drain and don’t let the container sit in water. Let the top few inches of soil dry between watering.
Fertilize the container grown tea plant during its active growing season, from spring through fall. At this time, apply an acidic plant fertilizer every 3 weeks, diluted to half the strength according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Prune the tea plant yearly after it blooms. Also remove any dead or damaged branches. To restrict the height of the plant and/or to facilitate new growth, prune the shrub back by about half its height. If the roots begin to outgrow the container, repot the plant into a larger container or trim the roots to fit the pot. Repot as needed, usually every 2-4 years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Popular in Asian cuisine, lemongrass is a very low maintenance plant that can be grown outdoors in USDA zone 9 and above, and in an indoor/outdoor container in colder zones. It’s fast growing though, and can get a little unruly if not pruned back regularly. Keep reading to learn more about how to cut back lemongrass.
How to Cut Back Lemongrass Plants
If given plenty of sun, water, and fertilizer, lemongrass can grow to as big as 6 feet (1.8 m.) high and 4 feet (1.2 m.) wide. Pruning lemongrass plants is a good idea for keeping them a manageable size as well as encouraging new growth.
Cutting lemongrass stalks for cooking will keep the plant somewhat in check, but lemongrass grows so quickly that extra pruning is often necessary. The best time for trimming lemongrass is early spring, when the plant is still dormant. If your lemongrass has been left untended for a while, it has probably accumulated some dead material. The first thing to do is get rid of that.
Rake away anything that’s unattached underneath, then pull out any dead stalks that are still in the ground. These are probably mostly around the outside of the plant. Once all that remains of your plant is green, you can cut down the tops of the stalks to make it a more manageable size. Lemongrass is very forgiving and can be cut back quite drastically. Cut it down to as little as 3 feet (.9 m.) high and prune it regularly to keep it that size if you so desire.
Pruning Lemongrass in Colder Climates
If you live in a colder climate, your lemongrass may go dormant over the winter, with all of its leaves turning brown. If this is the case, wait until early spring for lemongrass pruning and cut all the leaves away, right down to the tender white part of the stalk. This may look extreme when you do it, but before long, fresh growth should come in to replace all that lost material.
How to Cut Back Lemongrass Plants
If given plenty of sun, water, and fertilizer, lemongrass can grow to as big as 6 feet (1.8 m.) high and 4 feet (1.2 m.) wide. Pruning lemongrass plants is a good idea for keeping them a manageable size as well as encouraging new growth.
Cutting lemongrass stalks for cooking will keep the plant somewhat in check, but lemongrass grows so quickly that extra pruning is often necessary. The best time for trimming lemongrass is early spring, when the plant is still dormant. If your lemongrass has been left untended for a while, it has probably accumulated some dead material. The first thing to do is get rid of that.
Rake away anything that’s unattached underneath, then pull out any dead stalks that are still in the ground. These are probably mostly around the outside of the plant. Once all that remains of your plant is green, you can cut down the tops of the stalks to make it a more manageable size. Lemongrass is very forgiving and can be cut back quite drastically. Cut it down to as little as 3 feet (.9 m.) high and prune it regularly to keep it that size if you so desire.
Pruning Lemongrass in Colder Climates
If you live in a colder climate, your lemongrass may go dormant over the winter, with all of its leaves turning brown. If this is the case, wait until early spring for lemongrass pruning and cut all the leaves away, right down to the tender white part of the stalk. This may look extreme when you do it, but before long, fresh growth should come in to replace all that lost material.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chamomile is a fantastic herb to grow. Its foliage and flowers are bright, its fragrance is sweet, and the tea that can be brewed from the leaves is relaxing and easy to make. While it will thrive outdoors, chamomile will also grow very well indoors in a pot. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow chamomile indoors.
How to Grow Chamomile Indoors
One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still be healthy and the flowers fragrant. Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot. Choose a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good drainage. Wet your potting soil so that it’s moist but not sodden, and press the seeds into the surface of the soil so that they’re still visible – chamomile seeds need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of 68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After they’ve developed their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big pot.
Chamomile Care Indoors
Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a south-facing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be ready to harvest for tea.
How to Grow Chamomile Indoors
One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still be healthy and the flowers fragrant. Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot. Choose a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good drainage. Wet your potting soil so that it’s moist but not sodden, and press the seeds into the surface of the soil so that they’re still visible – chamomile seeds need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of 68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After they’ve developed their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big pot.
Chamomile Care Indoors
Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a south-facing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be ready to harvest for tea.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While basil is a commonly grown herb outdoors, this easy-care plant can also be grown indoors. In fact, you can grow basil inside much the same as you would in the garden. This wonderfully fragrant herb can be grown for use in the kitchen, making aromatic oils, or simply for aesthetic purposes. Let’s look at how to grow basil indoors.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used. As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting. If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used. As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting. If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is often referred to as the king of herbs. Basil plants are certainly one of the most popular herbs grown in the home garden. Growing basil outdoors or in a container is very easy to do if you follow these simple steps for how to grow basil.
Tips for Growing Basil
Choose a location with great drainage. Whether you’re growing basil outdoors in the ground or in a container, the drainage needs to be excellent.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors. If you choose growing basil seeds, scatter the seeds over the location that you have chosen and lightly cover with dirt. Water thoroughly. Thin to 6 inches apart once the seedling come up. If you choose growing basil plants, dig a small hole, tease out the root ball some and plant the basil plant in the ground. Water thoroughly. Wait till the temperature is right. When growing basil outdoors, it is very important to remember that basil is very sensitive to cold and even a light frost will kill it. Do not plant seeds or basil plants until all danger of frost has passed.
Harvest often. The trick to how to grow basil that is large and abundant is to harvest often. The more you harvest basil, the more the plant will grow. When harvesting, pinch off the stem right above where a pair of leaves are growing. After you harvest, two more stems will start to grow, which means twice the leaves next time you harvest! Remove flowers. Once a basil plant flowers, the leaves start to lose their good flavor. If you remove any flowers, the leaves will get their good flavor back in just a day or so. As you can see, proper basil plant care is easy. Knowing how to grow basil will provide you with large amounts of this tasty herb.
Tips for Growing Basil
Choose a location with great drainage. Whether you’re growing basil outdoors in the ground or in a container, the drainage needs to be excellent.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors. If you choose growing basil seeds, scatter the seeds over the location that you have chosen and lightly cover with dirt. Water thoroughly. Thin to 6 inches apart once the seedling come up. If you choose growing basil plants, dig a small hole, tease out the root ball some and plant the basil plant in the ground. Water thoroughly. Wait till the temperature is right. When growing basil outdoors, it is very important to remember that basil is very sensitive to cold and even a light frost will kill it. Do not plant seeds or basil plants until all danger of frost has passed.
Harvest often. The trick to how to grow basil that is large and abundant is to harvest often. The more you harvest basil, the more the plant will grow. When harvesting, pinch off the stem right above where a pair of leaves are growing. After you harvest, two more stems will start to grow, which means twice the leaves next time you harvest! Remove flowers. Once a basil plant flowers, the leaves start to lose their good flavor. If you remove any flowers, the leaves will get their good flavor back in just a day or so. As you can see, proper basil plant care is easy. Knowing how to grow basil will provide you with large amounts of this tasty herb.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Oxalis, also known as shamrock or sorrel, is a popular indoor plant around the St. Patrick’s Day holiday. This diminutive little plant is also suitable for growing outdoors with minimal attention, although it may need a little help getting through chilly winters. Read on to learn about growing oxalis outdoors.
How to Grow Oxalis in the Garden
Plant oxalis where the soil is moist and well drained, but never soggy. Slightly acidic soil is best. Additionally, improve soil quality and drainage by digging in a little well-rotted manure or compost before planting. Oxalis needs a few hours of sunlight every day, but plant in afternoon shade if you live in a hot climate. Oxalis leaves may wilt during hot afternoons, but they usually bounce back when the temperature drops in the evening. Keep in mind that species with darker leaves tolerate more sunlight.
Oxalis Outdoor Care
Oxalis plant care in gardens isn’t too demanding nut may include winter protection in cooler climates. Provide enough water to keep the soil evenly moist. Beware of overwatering, however, as the bulbs will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. On the other hand, be careful the soil doesn’t get completely dry, especially during hot weather. Feed oxalis regularly during the growing season using a liquid fertilizer mixed at half strength. If you live in a warmer climate, don’t be surprised when your oxalis plant turns brown and drops its leaves in late summer. The plant is going into a period of dormancy. Withhold water during this time and resume when new shoots appear in spring.
Take steps to protect your oxalis plant if you live in a chilly climate. Hardiness varies depending on the species, and some, including purple shamrock (Oxalis triangularis), tolerate winters in USDA plant hardiness zone 6. However, most are frost-tender and won’t survive frosty weather. One option when caring for oxalis plants in winter is to pot them up before freezing temperatures arrive in fall, then bring indoors to a sunny location. You can also put the plants in a pot and allow them to go completely dormant, which means no watering. Store in a cool, unheated (but non-freezing) room. Move the oxalis plants to a well-lit location in spring, resume watering, and then move back outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, dig the bulbs and store them until spring. Gently brush off the excess dirt and place the bulbs loosely into a cardboard box. Bring them into the house until the foliage dries up, which takes about a week. Move the bulbs into a container filled with sphagnum moss, peat moss or sawdust, and store them where it’s dark and cool but not freezing.
How to Grow Oxalis in the Garden
Plant oxalis where the soil is moist and well drained, but never soggy. Slightly acidic soil is best. Additionally, improve soil quality and drainage by digging in a little well-rotted manure or compost before planting. Oxalis needs a few hours of sunlight every day, but plant in afternoon shade if you live in a hot climate. Oxalis leaves may wilt during hot afternoons, but they usually bounce back when the temperature drops in the evening. Keep in mind that species with darker leaves tolerate more sunlight.
Oxalis Outdoor Care
Oxalis plant care in gardens isn’t too demanding nut may include winter protection in cooler climates. Provide enough water to keep the soil evenly moist. Beware of overwatering, however, as the bulbs will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. On the other hand, be careful the soil doesn’t get completely dry, especially during hot weather. Feed oxalis regularly during the growing season using a liquid fertilizer mixed at half strength. If you live in a warmer climate, don’t be surprised when your oxalis plant turns brown and drops its leaves in late summer. The plant is going into a period of dormancy. Withhold water during this time and resume when new shoots appear in spring.
Take steps to protect your oxalis plant if you live in a chilly climate. Hardiness varies depending on the species, and some, including purple shamrock (Oxalis triangularis), tolerate winters in USDA plant hardiness zone 6. However, most are frost-tender and won’t survive frosty weather. One option when caring for oxalis plants in winter is to pot them up before freezing temperatures arrive in fall, then bring indoors to a sunny location. You can also put the plants in a pot and allow them to go completely dormant, which means no watering. Store in a cool, unheated (but non-freezing) room. Move the oxalis plants to a well-lit location in spring, resume watering, and then move back outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, dig the bulbs and store them until spring. Gently brush off the excess dirt and place the bulbs loosely into a cardboard box. Bring them into the house until the foliage dries up, which takes about a week. Move the bulbs into a container filled with sphagnum moss, peat moss or sawdust, and store them where it’s dark and cool but not freezing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is a distinctive plant easily recognized by its upright growth habit and thick, glossy, deep green leaves. Rubber plant thrives outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, but it is grown as an indoor plant in most climates. Although the plant is relatively trouble-free, it can fall prey to various pests and diseases that can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. What causes rubber plant leaves to curl? There are several possible reasons.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Euphorbia plants (Euphorbia spp.) also go by the easier to say, but less elegant, name of Spurge. They are a family of plants that may be grown as houseplants or occasionally outdoors. There are many varieties of Euphorbia plants, with fascinating forms that range from shrubs, herbs, or cactus-like specimens. Growing Euphorbias is easy and some are hardy in temperate climates. These are easy to start from seed and propagate from cuttings. Learn how to cultivate a Euphorbia plant that will start conversations and cause second looks.
About Euphorbia Plants
Euphorbias occur naturally in many parts of the world, but most notably Africa, Asia, Europe and North and South America. The variation of form and size provide a spectacle of plant life. Some are as large as trees and others range as small ground covers. There are over 2,000 species, many of which you will find familiar from interior commercial plantings. Crown of thorns is recognizable by its spiky stems, and donkey spurge is aptly named with thick rope-like stems sprawling away from the plant. Poinsettias are a form of Euphorbia that is recognizable to almost everyone. Most varieties of Euphorbia plants produce weird and unusual flowers. Gardeners should be cautious when handling Spurge, as all varieties have a milky latex sap that can be irritating or even poisonous.
How to Cultivate a Euphorbia Plant
As a general rule, Spurge requires well-drained soil in full sun. A few tolerate shadier conditions, but none of the family is fussy about soil condition. They even thrive in very poor soils and can tolerate periods of drought. Euphorbia plant care is simple. Provide them light, moderate moisture and watch for annoying pests, like whitefly. Provide water under the plant’s leaves to prevent powdery mildew. You will not need to fertilize Spurge often. Wait until the bottom leaves become yellow before feeding with a water-soluble plant food. Prune when the plant gets out of hand. These plants are almost impossible to kill and are a perfect choice for the novice gardener. Growing Euphorbia to share with a friend is also a great beginner propagation project.
Additional Growing Tips for Euphorbia
Spurge grows quite well from seeds sown indoors in pots. You can propagate Euphorbia more quickly and easily by gathering up the “volunteers” around an established plant. You may also root stem cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat. Keep them lightly misted and enclose the pot in a bag to keep moisture in. Let the pot breathe once a day for an hour, so the soil does not mold. Once the cutting has rooted, you can pot it in regular soil or plant outdoors in moderate climates. One of the more important growing tips for Euphorbia is to let the stem cutting dry for a few days before planting. This allows the sap to form a callus on the cut end and prevents rotting. Whether you want a giant thornless cactus specimen 6 feet tall or a creeping, sweetly flowering ground cover, you should try growing Euphorbias. They reward the gardener with more than just good looks, but remind us all of the variety and beauty found in nature.
About Euphorbia Plants
Euphorbias occur naturally in many parts of the world, but most notably Africa, Asia, Europe and North and South America. The variation of form and size provide a spectacle of plant life. Some are as large as trees and others range as small ground covers. There are over 2,000 species, many of which you will find familiar from interior commercial plantings. Crown of thorns is recognizable by its spiky stems, and donkey spurge is aptly named with thick rope-like stems sprawling away from the plant. Poinsettias are a form of Euphorbia that is recognizable to almost everyone. Most varieties of Euphorbia plants produce weird and unusual flowers. Gardeners should be cautious when handling Spurge, as all varieties have a milky latex sap that can be irritating or even poisonous.
How to Cultivate a Euphorbia Plant
As a general rule, Spurge requires well-drained soil in full sun. A few tolerate shadier conditions, but none of the family is fussy about soil condition. They even thrive in very poor soils and can tolerate periods of drought. Euphorbia plant care is simple. Provide them light, moderate moisture and watch for annoying pests, like whitefly. Provide water under the plant’s leaves to prevent powdery mildew. You will not need to fertilize Spurge often. Wait until the bottom leaves become yellow before feeding with a water-soluble plant food. Prune when the plant gets out of hand. These plants are almost impossible to kill and are a perfect choice for the novice gardener. Growing Euphorbia to share with a friend is also a great beginner propagation project.
Additional Growing Tips for Euphorbia
Spurge grows quite well from seeds sown indoors in pots. You can propagate Euphorbia more quickly and easily by gathering up the “volunteers” around an established plant. You may also root stem cuttings in a soilless medium, such as peat. Keep them lightly misted and enclose the pot in a bag to keep moisture in. Let the pot breathe once a day for an hour, so the soil does not mold. Once the cutting has rooted, you can pot it in regular soil or plant outdoors in moderate climates. One of the more important growing tips for Euphorbia is to let the stem cutting dry for a few days before planting. This allows the sap to form a callus on the cut end and prevents rotting. Whether you want a giant thornless cactus specimen 6 feet tall or a creeping, sweetly flowering ground cover, you should try growing Euphorbias. They reward the gardener with more than just good looks, but remind us all of the variety and beauty found in nature.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Succulent plants are easy to love. Their ease of care, sunny dispositions and moderate growth habits make them perfect for warm seasons outdoors or well lit interiors. The Echeveria succulent plant is just such a specimen, thriving on brief periods of neglect and low water and nutrients. Echeveria care is practically foolproof and grows well in either containers or toasty garden beds. The many varieties and colors of Echeveria plants provide wonderful tones and texture for mixed beds and pots.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
Details on Echeveria Plants
Echeveria spp. stem from thick-leaved rosettes. The leaves are fleshy and have a waxy cuticle on the exterior. Often the leaves are colored and a firm touch can mar the skin and leave marks. The Echeveria succulent plant is slow growing and usually doesn’t exceed 12 inches in height or spread.
Native from Texas to Central America, the plants prefer desert conditions, but will tolerate periods of moisture as long as they are allowed to dry out before applying more water. Growing Echeveria in an unglazed clay pot, which will allow water to evaporate, is ideal. Otherwise, they need full sun and well drained soil. There are 150 cultivated varieties of the plants, one of which is probably right for you.
Growing Echeveria
These easy little succulents produce offsets or baby plants nestled against the mother rosette. These are easy to separate and grow. Just pull the little rosette away and replant in a cactus mixture or homemade blend of equal parts sand, topsoil and compost. You can also start new plants from leaf cuttings. Simply lay the leaf on the surface of the soil. It will root within a few weeks and soon a small rosette will grow next to the rooted leaf. The leaf will dry up and crumble off of the new plant.
Care Instructions for Echeveria
The most important part of good Echeveria care is watering. The biggest issue with the succulents is overwatering. Provide moderate amounts of water in the hot, dry season. Let the soil dry out completely before you irrigate again. Potted plants should not be left in a wet saucer. Soft rots and root rot issues occur when the plant is too wet. The only other issue of concern is the mealybug. Their feeding behavior can seriously minimize the plants vigor. Situate the plants in full sun and mulch around them with gravel or sand to help prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Protect the plants from freezing temperatures and store potted plants indoors in winter. The plants do not need pruning, but you may pinch off damaged or errant growth as needed.
How to Use Echeveria
The sheer variety of these plants and other succulents means they lend themselves well to group displays. Potted displays with several varieties or different types of succulents and cacti make attractive additions to the home interior or exterior. Mix and match colors and sizes for unique settings. Put the larger varieties in the center and the trailing or shorter types at the edges. Continue general care instructions for Echeveria, which will also work for most other types of succulents.
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