文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Can I plant my Christmas cactus outside, you ask? Can Christmas cactus be outside? The answer is yes, but you can only grow the plant outdoors year round if you live in a warm climate because Christmas cactus is definitely not cold hardy. Growing Christmas cactus outdoors is possible only in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and above.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
With broad, dark green, fan-shaped foliage on tall stalks, lady palm plants (Rhapis excelsa) have an oriental appeal. As stand-alone plants, they have a formal elegance and when planted in masses they lend a touch of the tropics to the landscape. Outdoors they can reach heights of 6 to 12 feet with a spread of 3 to 12 feet. When grown in the confines of a container, they stay much smaller.
Lady Palm Care Indoors
Place your lady palm plant near an east-facing window, out of direct sunlight. They thrive in comfortable indoor temperatures of between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Water the palm when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch in spring and summer. In fall and winter, allow the soil to dry to a depth of two inches. Drench the soil with water until it comes out the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and empty the saucer under the pot after 20 to 30 minutes. When the plant becomes so large and heavy that it is hard to empty the saucer, set it on top of a layer of pebbles to prevent the soil from reabsorbing the moisture.
Repot a lady palm plant every two years, increasing the size of the pot each time until it is as large as you want it to grow. After it has reached the desired size, repot every two years or so into the same pot or a pot of the same size to refresh the potting soil. African violet potting mix is ideal for growing lady palms. Take care not to over-fertilize a lady palm plant. Feed them only in summer using half-strength liquid houseplant fertilizer. With proper care, the plant should last for several years.
How to Care for a Lady Palm Outdoors
Outdoors, large plantings of lady finger palms may remind you of bamboo, but without the invasive tendencies. Plant them as you would hedges on 3- to 4-foot centers to form a screen or backdrop. They also make nice specimen plants. Outdoor plants produce fragrant, yellow flowers in spring. Lady palms are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 8b through 12. They need full or partial shade. Although they adapt well to a variety of soil types, they perform best in a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Water often enough to keep the soil lightly moist where practical. The plants tolerate moderate drought. Use a palm fertilizer, according to the label instructions, no more than once a year.
Lady Palm Care Indoors
Place your lady palm plant near an east-facing window, out of direct sunlight. They thrive in comfortable indoor temperatures of between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Water the palm when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch in spring and summer. In fall and winter, allow the soil to dry to a depth of two inches. Drench the soil with water until it comes out the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and empty the saucer under the pot after 20 to 30 minutes. When the plant becomes so large and heavy that it is hard to empty the saucer, set it on top of a layer of pebbles to prevent the soil from reabsorbing the moisture.
Repot a lady palm plant every two years, increasing the size of the pot each time until it is as large as you want it to grow. After it has reached the desired size, repot every two years or so into the same pot or a pot of the same size to refresh the potting soil. African violet potting mix is ideal for growing lady palms. Take care not to over-fertilize a lady palm plant. Feed them only in summer using half-strength liquid houseplant fertilizer. With proper care, the plant should last for several years.
How to Care for a Lady Palm Outdoors
Outdoors, large plantings of lady finger palms may remind you of bamboo, but without the invasive tendencies. Plant them as you would hedges on 3- to 4-foot centers to form a screen or backdrop. They also make nice specimen plants. Outdoor plants produce fragrant, yellow flowers in spring. Lady palms are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 8b through 12. They need full or partial shade. Although they adapt well to a variety of soil types, they perform best in a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Water often enough to keep the soil lightly moist where practical. The plants tolerate moderate drought. Use a palm fertilizer, according to the label instructions, no more than once a year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. The clusters of tiny flowers produce a large bloom held aloft on stems above the majority of the foliage. If you wish a second bloom, it is incumbent to know how to take care of a kalanchoe. These plants need short winter light periods to form new buds. Learn how to grow kalanchoe and the perennial can reward you with several seasons of the bright colorful flowers.
About Kalanchoe Plants
The deep green, scalloped leaves of the kalanchoe are just as attractive as the flowers. The sculpted foliage persists after bloom and provides for a handsome plant. The starry flowers are long lasting and bloom in winter to spring. Kalanchoe plants require well-drained soil and mild temperatures of at least 60 F. (16 C.). Little maintenance is necessary for kalanchoe care and the succulent has few disease or pest problems, especially when grown indoors.
How to Grow Kalanchoe Cuttings
Kalanchoe plants are fun to grow from cuttings. The vegetative stems produce the best plants and root quickest. Take a 2- to 3-inch section and strip off the bottom couple of leaves. Let the cutting sit out in a warm, dry location to form a callus on the end. Plant the cutting in pre-moistened peat and perlite up to the first leaf. Enclose the entire pot in plastic to form a little terrarium and conserve the moisture. Place the pot in a bright window with indirect light. Cuttings will root in 14 to 21 days and are then ready to transplant.
How to Take Care of a Kalanchoe
Plants may grow well in southern Florida year round or outside in USDA zones 8 to 10 during the summer months. Kalanchoe care is minimal but be cautious about light levels. Strong southern light can burn the tips of the leaves. Place pots in partial sun to light shade areas when growing kalachoe plants. The best planting mix is 60 percent peat moss and 40 percent perlite. Cut off spent flower stems and pinch back leggy growth to force a compact plant. Water the plant deeply and then allow it to dry out completely before you give it further moisture. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a houseplant food.
Kalanchoe Care for Second Bloom
Although the plant foliage of growing kalanchoe succulent plants is interesting even without blooms, the flowers make the most spectacular display. To force the plant to bloom again, you must fool it into believing it has experienced winter. During October and early March, the day lengths are short enough to naturally force flower buds. In other periods, you will have to put the plant in a closet or dim room for most of the day. Bring it out only for morning light and then put it away after a few hours. The plant needs six weeks of 12 to 14 hour darkness to form spectacular new flowers. The best temperatures for formation of flowers are 40-45 F. (4-7 C.) at night and 60 F. (16 C.) during the day. Kalanchoe care for plants that have begun to form buds is the same as that for flowering plants.
About Kalanchoe Plants
The deep green, scalloped leaves of the kalanchoe are just as attractive as the flowers. The sculpted foliage persists after bloom and provides for a handsome plant. The starry flowers are long lasting and bloom in winter to spring. Kalanchoe plants require well-drained soil and mild temperatures of at least 60 F. (16 C.). Little maintenance is necessary for kalanchoe care and the succulent has few disease or pest problems, especially when grown indoors.
How to Grow Kalanchoe Cuttings
Kalanchoe plants are fun to grow from cuttings. The vegetative stems produce the best plants and root quickest. Take a 2- to 3-inch section and strip off the bottom couple of leaves. Let the cutting sit out in a warm, dry location to form a callus on the end. Plant the cutting in pre-moistened peat and perlite up to the first leaf. Enclose the entire pot in plastic to form a little terrarium and conserve the moisture. Place the pot in a bright window with indirect light. Cuttings will root in 14 to 21 days and are then ready to transplant.
How to Take Care of a Kalanchoe
Plants may grow well in southern Florida year round or outside in USDA zones 8 to 10 during the summer months. Kalanchoe care is minimal but be cautious about light levels. Strong southern light can burn the tips of the leaves. Place pots in partial sun to light shade areas when growing kalachoe plants. The best planting mix is 60 percent peat moss and 40 percent perlite. Cut off spent flower stems and pinch back leggy growth to force a compact plant. Water the plant deeply and then allow it to dry out completely before you give it further moisture. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a houseplant food.
Kalanchoe Care for Second Bloom
Although the plant foliage of growing kalanchoe succulent plants is interesting even without blooms, the flowers make the most spectacular display. To force the plant to bloom again, you must fool it into believing it has experienced winter. During October and early March, the day lengths are short enough to naturally force flower buds. In other periods, you will have to put the plant in a closet or dim room for most of the day. Bring it out only for morning light and then put it away after a few hours. The plant needs six weeks of 12 to 14 hour darkness to form spectacular new flowers. The best temperatures for formation of flowers are 40-45 F. (4-7 C.) at night and 60 F. (16 C.) during the day. Kalanchoe care for plants that have begun to form buds is the same as that for flowering plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Ivy can make a wonderful, bright light houseplant. It can grow long and lush and bring a bit of the outdoors inside. Growing ivy indoors is easy as long as you know what makes an ivy plant happy. Let’s learn a little bit more about ivy and proper ivy plant care.
About Ivy Houseplants
Ivy houseplants can actually be one of several different varieties. These include:
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Irish ivy (Hedera hibernica)
Japanese ivy (Hedera rhombea)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis)
Persian ivy (Hedera colchica)
Nepal ivy (Hedera nepalensis)
Russian ivy (Hedera pastuchovii)
English ivy cultivars are the most common type of ivy grown in the home, but all can be found if you look hard enough. Each of the varieties of inside ivy plants also come in several different cultivars. This means that there is a dizzying array of ivies that you can choose for your home, depending on your preference for color (all shades of green or variegated with white, yellow, gray, black and cream), leaf shape and growth habits.
Growing Ivy Indoors
Growing ivy indoors isn’t difficult as long as you provide what the plant needs. The most important part of indoor ivy plant care is light. All true ivies need bright light. Variegated cultivars can take medium light, but be aware that their variegation will become less pronounced in less light. Without enough light, inside ivy plants will become leggy and sickly looking. They will also be more prone to pests.
Indoor Ivy Plant Care
When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivies prefer to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plant again. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage, as ivy does not like to be in standing water or overly wet soil. Caring for ivy plants should also include regular fertilizing. Fertilize your ivy about once a month in the spring, summer and fall with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the winter, as this is the ivy’s dormant period and the fertilizer may do more harm than good at this time. Ivy houseplants benefit from periodic washing to remove dust and pests from their leaves. To wash your ivy plant, simply place the plant in the shower and allow the water to run over the plant for a few minutes. If you find the plant has a serious pest infestation, you may need to bring the spray closer to the plant to help knock off all the pests. Caring for ivy plants is easy and rewarding. You will enjoy not only growing ivy indoors, but will also have fun with the wide selection of ivy plants available to do so.
About Ivy Houseplants
Ivy houseplants can actually be one of several different varieties. These include:
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Irish ivy (Hedera hibernica)
Japanese ivy (Hedera rhombea)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis)
Persian ivy (Hedera colchica)
Nepal ivy (Hedera nepalensis)
Russian ivy (Hedera pastuchovii)
English ivy cultivars are the most common type of ivy grown in the home, but all can be found if you look hard enough. Each of the varieties of inside ivy plants also come in several different cultivars. This means that there is a dizzying array of ivies that you can choose for your home, depending on your preference for color (all shades of green or variegated with white, yellow, gray, black and cream), leaf shape and growth habits.
Growing Ivy Indoors
Growing ivy indoors isn’t difficult as long as you provide what the plant needs. The most important part of indoor ivy plant care is light. All true ivies need bright light. Variegated cultivars can take medium light, but be aware that their variegation will become less pronounced in less light. Without enough light, inside ivy plants will become leggy and sickly looking. They will also be more prone to pests.
Indoor Ivy Plant Care
When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivies prefer to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plant again. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage, as ivy does not like to be in standing water or overly wet soil. Caring for ivy plants should also include regular fertilizing. Fertilize your ivy about once a month in the spring, summer and fall with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the winter, as this is the ivy’s dormant period and the fertilizer may do more harm than good at this time. Ivy houseplants benefit from periodic washing to remove dust and pests from their leaves. To wash your ivy plant, simply place the plant in the shower and allow the water to run over the plant for a few minutes. If you find the plant has a serious pest infestation, you may need to bring the spray closer to the plant to help knock off all the pests. Caring for ivy plants is easy and rewarding. You will enjoy not only growing ivy indoors, but will also have fun with the wide selection of ivy plants available to do so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Weeping figs (Ficus benjamina) are elegant trees with slender gray trunks and a profusion of green leaves. Weeping fig tree care depends on whether you are growing weeping fig trees indoors or outdoors. Let’s learn more about outdoor care for weeping figs.
Weeping Fig Plant Information
Growing weeping fig trees indoors and growing weeping fig trees outdoors are completely different endeavors. It is almost as if indoor and outdoor weeping figs are different species.
Indoors, weeping figs are attractive container plants that rarely grow above 6 to 8 feet. Outdoors, however, the trees grow into huge specimens (up to 100 feet tall and 50 feet wide) and are often used for hedges. That being said, weeping figs only thrive outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Therefore, most weeping figs are grown as indoor plants. If you are fortunate enough to live in one of these warm, tropical-like areas though, caring for weeping figs outdoors is something you need to know.
Weeping Fig Tree Care Outdoors
As indoor container plants, weeping figs grow quite slowly, but outside, it’s a different story. This plant can quickly become a monster of a tree if not kept pruned, which it tolerates well. In fact, with regards to weeping fig tree pruning, it readily accepts severe pruning, so don’t hesitate to remove any dead foliage when you see it. If you want to do weeping fig tree pruning to shape or reduce the size of the tree, you can take off up to one-third of the outer growth of the canopy at a time. Caring for weeping figs indoors is a matter of selecting an appropriate location. As its roots spread just as fast as it grows tall, the tree can potentially damage foundations. So, if choosing to grow outdoors, plant it well away from the home, at least 30 feet. If you read up on weeping fig plant information, you find that the plant prefers well-drained, moist, loamy soil and thrives in a location with bright, indirect sunlight indoors. Outdoors is pretty much the same with a few exceptions. The tree can grow well in full sun to shade.
Once established, creeping figs are fairly drought and heat tolerant. They are said to be hardy to 30 F. (-1 C.) but just one hard frost can cause severe damage to the tree. However, when grown in areas with less harsh winters, most will rebound provided the roots are protected. Adding a 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch can help. Outdoor problems with creeping figs include freezing temps; severe drought; high winds; and insect pests, especially thrips. Weeping fig tree care can be tricky since issues are often hard to diagnose. No matter what the problem, the tree reacts the same way: it drops leaves. Most experts agree that the number one cause of leaf drop in weeping fig is overwatering (especially indoors). A good rule of thumb is to keep your tree’s soil moist but never wet, backing off in the winter. You can provide the tree with liquid fertilizer about once a month during the growing season, but outdoors this isn’t usually necessary or advisable due to its faster growth.
Weeping Fig Plant Information
Growing weeping fig trees indoors and growing weeping fig trees outdoors are completely different endeavors. It is almost as if indoor and outdoor weeping figs are different species.
Indoors, weeping figs are attractive container plants that rarely grow above 6 to 8 feet. Outdoors, however, the trees grow into huge specimens (up to 100 feet tall and 50 feet wide) and are often used for hedges. That being said, weeping figs only thrive outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Therefore, most weeping figs are grown as indoor plants. If you are fortunate enough to live in one of these warm, tropical-like areas though, caring for weeping figs outdoors is something you need to know.
Weeping Fig Tree Care Outdoors
As indoor container plants, weeping figs grow quite slowly, but outside, it’s a different story. This plant can quickly become a monster of a tree if not kept pruned, which it tolerates well. In fact, with regards to weeping fig tree pruning, it readily accepts severe pruning, so don’t hesitate to remove any dead foliage when you see it. If you want to do weeping fig tree pruning to shape or reduce the size of the tree, you can take off up to one-third of the outer growth of the canopy at a time. Caring for weeping figs indoors is a matter of selecting an appropriate location. As its roots spread just as fast as it grows tall, the tree can potentially damage foundations. So, if choosing to grow outdoors, plant it well away from the home, at least 30 feet. If you read up on weeping fig plant information, you find that the plant prefers well-drained, moist, loamy soil and thrives in a location with bright, indirect sunlight indoors. Outdoors is pretty much the same with a few exceptions. The tree can grow well in full sun to shade.
Once established, creeping figs are fairly drought and heat tolerant. They are said to be hardy to 30 F. (-1 C.) but just one hard frost can cause severe damage to the tree. However, when grown in areas with less harsh winters, most will rebound provided the roots are protected. Adding a 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch can help. Outdoor problems with creeping figs include freezing temps; severe drought; high winds; and insect pests, especially thrips. Weeping fig tree care can be tricky since issues are often hard to diagnose. No matter what the problem, the tree reacts the same way: it drops leaves. Most experts agree that the number one cause of leaf drop in weeping fig is overwatering (especially indoors). A good rule of thumb is to keep your tree’s soil moist but never wet, backing off in the winter. You can provide the tree with liquid fertilizer about once a month during the growing season, but outdoors this isn’t usually necessary or advisable due to its faster growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Pet dogs and cats tend to get into things they shouldn't, whether indoors or out. Among the most unnerving concerns is knowing which plants in the yard or house are toxic to your furry companions. In the United States, native orchids grow outdoors in sunny fields and woodlands and in shade gardens. A wide array of tropical orchids are also grown as houseplants, and also used as cut flowers in bouquets. Generally speaking, orchids are not poisonous to cats or dogs.
Types
lovers. Over the centuries, both orchids and dogs have been extensively bred to create new breeds or genetic lines. While 25,000 orchid species are known worldwide, at least 100,000 hybrids or grexes are registered. The genetic lineages of modern orchid hybrids are complex and confusing. While orchids are not considered toxic to dogs and cats, there always is a chance that an orchid hybrid carries that one odd gene that creates a harmful compound in leaves or flowers that could cause sickness in a pet.
Plant Lists
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals currently publishes extensive lists of both known toxic and nontoxic plants for dogs and cats on its website. The lists are nonexhaustive, and include only the most commonly encountered plants in the United States. As of 2011, no orchids are listed as being toxic for either dogs or cats, with several orchids explicitly listed on the nontoxic list for both animals.
Prevention
animal -- its body mass -- and the amount of plant eaten affects the reaction seen. Smaller animals need to eat less plant material to be affected. Sometimes the fresh greenery upsets the stomach and leads to usual coughing and vomiting of hairballs. Even though there is some evidence from the ASPCA that most orchids aren't toxic to these critters, not all orchids are represented or tested. If possible, discourage or train your dog or cat to not eat orchids. Your first reaction should be identify the plant eaten, to be certain it truly is an orchid, especially if hiking in the wild. Assume the orchid isn't harmful, but monitor the pet and watch for symptoms of sickness such as foaming of the mouth, change in demeanor or other behavioral changes. Contact your veterinarian if symptoms arise and you suspect any plant was eaten.
Plant Names
The name "orchid" is not specific unless the plant is in the orchid family, Orchidaceae. Many non-orchid-family plants may be colloquially called orchids or superficially resemble an orchid. Plants that have a common name of orchid but are not in the orchid family may be toxic to dogs or cats. It depends on the precise identity of the plant. For example, the orchid tree is not a real orchid, but a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. Conversely, not all true orchids are commonly called orchids, but by more ambiguous names such as lady slippers or lady's tresses. This can add to the anxiety associated with a family dog or cat eating an unknown plant, or one that somebody referred to as an orchid or looks like an orchid.
Types
lovers. Over the centuries, both orchids and dogs have been extensively bred to create new breeds or genetic lines. While 25,000 orchid species are known worldwide, at least 100,000 hybrids or grexes are registered. The genetic lineages of modern orchid hybrids are complex and confusing. While orchids are not considered toxic to dogs and cats, there always is a chance that an orchid hybrid carries that one odd gene that creates a harmful compound in leaves or flowers that could cause sickness in a pet.
Plant Lists
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals currently publishes extensive lists of both known toxic and nontoxic plants for dogs and cats on its website. The lists are nonexhaustive, and include only the most commonly encountered plants in the United States. As of 2011, no orchids are listed as being toxic for either dogs or cats, with several orchids explicitly listed on the nontoxic list for both animals.
Prevention
animal -- its body mass -- and the amount of plant eaten affects the reaction seen. Smaller animals need to eat less plant material to be affected. Sometimes the fresh greenery upsets the stomach and leads to usual coughing and vomiting of hairballs. Even though there is some evidence from the ASPCA that most orchids aren't toxic to these critters, not all orchids are represented or tested. If possible, discourage or train your dog or cat to not eat orchids. Your first reaction should be identify the plant eaten, to be certain it truly is an orchid, especially if hiking in the wild. Assume the orchid isn't harmful, but monitor the pet and watch for symptoms of sickness such as foaming of the mouth, change in demeanor or other behavioral changes. Contact your veterinarian if symptoms arise and you suspect any plant was eaten.
Plant Names
The name "orchid" is not specific unless the plant is in the orchid family, Orchidaceae. Many non-orchid-family plants may be colloquially called orchids or superficially resemble an orchid. Plants that have a common name of orchid but are not in the orchid family may be toxic to dogs or cats. It depends on the precise identity of the plant. For example, the orchid tree is not a real orchid, but a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. Conversely, not all true orchids are commonly called orchids, but by more ambiguous names such as lady slippers or lady's tresses. This can add to the anxiety associated with a family dog or cat eating an unknown plant, or one that somebody referred to as an orchid or looks like an orchid.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Miniature potted roses accent a home's interior with beautiful rose blooms. Caring for mini roses indoors is similar to caring for full-size roses outdoors, only with less work. Indoors, the plant will typically be less prone to pests, and you won't have to worry about weather damage. Less care doesn't mean no care, of course. Keeping certain things in mind will help you maintain your mini roses.
Step 1
Keep your indoor mini roses in a sunny area of your home. The roses will not bloom unless they get enough sunshine.
Step 2
Check the rose's soil for dryness each day. If you stick your finger in the pot and the soil is dry an inch down, you need to water. Water your mini roses deeply so the roots get a good drink--continue until the water starts seeping out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the planter.
Step 3
Cut off old blooms with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Guide to Houseplants.com advises cutting the stem below the bloom at a 45-degree angle. This is a good time to check for insects on the roses. Deal with insects quickly by squishing them or spraying them with pesticide. Most houseplant pesticides will work fine for insects on mini rose plants.
Step 4
Fertilize mini indoor roses with the same fertilizer you use on outdoor roses. Many brands offer fertilizer geared towards roses. Only fertilize the roses when they're in their growing season (spring and summer). You shouldn't have to fertilize indoor potted roses as often as outdoor roses.
Step 5
Prune off dead stems and foliage, cutting the stems at a 45-degree angle. Grow-Roses.com suggests pruning the mini roses back, leaving only 3 inches in height, when the roses are dormant in winter.
Step 1
Keep your indoor mini roses in a sunny area of your home. The roses will not bloom unless they get enough sunshine.
Step 2
Check the rose's soil for dryness each day. If you stick your finger in the pot and the soil is dry an inch down, you need to water. Water your mini roses deeply so the roots get a good drink--continue until the water starts seeping out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the planter.
Step 3
Cut off old blooms with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Guide to Houseplants.com advises cutting the stem below the bloom at a 45-degree angle. This is a good time to check for insects on the roses. Deal with insects quickly by squishing them or spraying them with pesticide. Most houseplant pesticides will work fine for insects on mini rose plants.
Step 4
Fertilize mini indoor roses with the same fertilizer you use on outdoor roses. Many brands offer fertilizer geared towards roses. Only fertilize the roses when they're in their growing season (spring and summer). You shouldn't have to fertilize indoor potted roses as often as outdoor roses.
Step 5
Prune off dead stems and foliage, cutting the stems at a 45-degree angle. Grow-Roses.com suggests pruning the mini roses back, leaving only 3 inches in height, when the roses are dormant in winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The garden croton (Codiaeum variegatum) is a small shrub with big tropical-looking leaves. Crotons can grow outdoors in gardening zones 9 to 11, and some varieties also make great houseplants, though demanding ones. Their striking red, orange and yellow-striped leaves make the extra work worthwhile. Some varieties even have purple or white stripes and patches on the dark green leaves. But sometimes the bright colors on a croton fade, leaving them with ordinary-looking green leaves. It can be disappointing to notice a croton losing color because those vibrant leaves are this plant’s best feature.
Why is My Croton Losing its Color?
Color loss of croton is common in winter and in low light conditions. Croton plants are native to the tropics, growing wild in Indonesia and Malaysia, and they do best in full sun or bright indoor light. Most often, croton plants with faded leaves are simply not receiving enough light. Conversely, some colors may fade if crotons are exposed to excessive direct light. Each variety has its own light preferences, so check whether the variety you have does best in full sun or partial sun.
What to Do When Croton Leaves are Fading
If a croton’s colors fade in low light levels, you need to increase the amount of light it is receiving. Bring the croton outdoors during the warm part of the year to give it more light. Be sure to harden off the plant, bringing it outdoors for a few hours at a time and placing it in a shady spot at first, to allow the plant to adjust to the brighter light, wind, and less stable temperatures of the outdoors. Crotons are not cold hardy and shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 30 degrees F. (-1 degree C.). Bring your croton back indoors before the first frost in fall. If a croton develops fading leaves when it is exposed to excessively bright light, try moving it into the shade or farther away from the window. To keep your croton healthy during the winter when it has to be indoors, place it near the sunniest window in the house, within 3 to 5 feet (.91 to 1.52 m.) of the glass, or provide a grow light. Legginess is another sign that the plant is not getting enough light. To ward off other problems that could cause weak coloration in crotons, provide a balanced slow-release fertilizer two to three times a year, but avoid over fertilizing, especially during the winter when growth is slower. Keep soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogged or poorly drained soil, which may cause leaves to turn yellow. Crotons should be misted to keep them healthy indoors, since they prefer more humidity than most houses provide.
Why is My Croton Losing its Color?
Color loss of croton is common in winter and in low light conditions. Croton plants are native to the tropics, growing wild in Indonesia and Malaysia, and they do best in full sun or bright indoor light. Most often, croton plants with faded leaves are simply not receiving enough light. Conversely, some colors may fade if crotons are exposed to excessive direct light. Each variety has its own light preferences, so check whether the variety you have does best in full sun or partial sun.
What to Do When Croton Leaves are Fading
If a croton’s colors fade in low light levels, you need to increase the amount of light it is receiving. Bring the croton outdoors during the warm part of the year to give it more light. Be sure to harden off the plant, bringing it outdoors for a few hours at a time and placing it in a shady spot at first, to allow the plant to adjust to the brighter light, wind, and less stable temperatures of the outdoors. Crotons are not cold hardy and shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 30 degrees F. (-1 degree C.). Bring your croton back indoors before the first frost in fall. If a croton develops fading leaves when it is exposed to excessively bright light, try moving it into the shade or farther away from the window. To keep your croton healthy during the winter when it has to be indoors, place it near the sunniest window in the house, within 3 to 5 feet (.91 to 1.52 m.) of the glass, or provide a grow light. Legginess is another sign that the plant is not getting enough light. To ward off other problems that could cause weak coloration in crotons, provide a balanced slow-release fertilizer two to three times a year, but avoid over fertilizing, especially during the winter when growth is slower. Keep soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogged or poorly drained soil, which may cause leaves to turn yellow. Crotons should be misted to keep them healthy indoors, since they prefer more humidity than most houses provide.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Low maintenance plants are hard to find. Tillandsias offer unique form, ease of care and just a fun way to bring the outdoors in to your home. Tillandsia sky plant (Tillandsia ionantha) is a superior specimen which doesn’t require traditional pot and soil combinations. This member of the Bromeliad family will grow epiphytically on a variety of organic surfaces. Learn how to grow a Tillandsia for a family-friendly plant that will make you look differently at plant presentation and care.
Sky Plant Bromeliads
Bromeliads are found in most areas of the world, but are mostly tropical to subtropical plants. They grow without root support in soil and can even be found in habitat hanging from trees. Tillandsia sky plant is a member of this family and produces a rosette form of leaves that funnel to a central core. The plant is native from Mexico to Nicaragua and naturally grows on trees and even rock faces. Sky plant bromeliads are easy to grow and make interesting presentations on bark or logs. If you are lucky and provide a good climate and care of Tillandsia, it will reward you with purple flowers or bracts in winter.
Care of Tillandsia
Once you get your air plant mounted, Tillandsia sky plant is one of the easiest plants to maintain. They are usually sold already mounted, but if not, you can attach the plant at its base to a cork bark form, branch or even shell. You can also place it freely into a terrarium or wedged among some rocks. The key to growing sky plant is humidity. Mist the plant daily or place sky plant bromeliads in the kitchen or bathroom, where humidity is naturally high. Temperatures should be at least 60 F. (16 C.), but temps around 50 F. (10 C.). in winter will help force flowering. Fertilize weekly with a half dilution of household plant fertilizer applied as a foliar mist. These plants perform best in indirect but bright light.
How to Grow Tillandsia to Share
Propagation of Tillandsia is simple. Growing sky plant from offshoots or “pups” is the best way to create new plants. Pups grow at the base of the mother plant. When they are half the size of the parent, use a sharp knife to divide the pup from the original growth. Plant it in the same manner by fixing to a board, or baby it for a while in a peat mix until the plant is healthy and ready for mounting. You can mount plants with glue, wire or even just temporarily fix them with paperclips until roots grow into the substrate or mounting form.
Sky Plant Bromeliads
Bromeliads are found in most areas of the world, but are mostly tropical to subtropical plants. They grow without root support in soil and can even be found in habitat hanging from trees. Tillandsia sky plant is a member of this family and produces a rosette form of leaves that funnel to a central core. The plant is native from Mexico to Nicaragua and naturally grows on trees and even rock faces. Sky plant bromeliads are easy to grow and make interesting presentations on bark or logs. If you are lucky and provide a good climate and care of Tillandsia, it will reward you with purple flowers or bracts in winter.
Care of Tillandsia
Once you get your air plant mounted, Tillandsia sky plant is one of the easiest plants to maintain. They are usually sold already mounted, but if not, you can attach the plant at its base to a cork bark form, branch or even shell. You can also place it freely into a terrarium or wedged among some rocks. The key to growing sky plant is humidity. Mist the plant daily or place sky plant bromeliads in the kitchen or bathroom, where humidity is naturally high. Temperatures should be at least 60 F. (16 C.), but temps around 50 F. (10 C.). in winter will help force flowering. Fertilize weekly with a half dilution of household plant fertilizer applied as a foliar mist. These plants perform best in indirect but bright light.
How to Grow Tillandsia to Share
Propagation of Tillandsia is simple. Growing sky plant from offshoots or “pups” is the best way to create new plants. Pups grow at the base of the mother plant. When they are half the size of the parent, use a sharp knife to divide the pup from the original growth. Plant it in the same manner by fixing to a board, or baby it for a while in a peat mix until the plant is healthy and ready for mounting. You can mount plants with glue, wire or even just temporarily fix them with paperclips until roots grow into the substrate or mounting form.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The arrowhead plant goes by numerous names, including arrowhead vine, American evergreen, five fingers, and nephthytis. Although it may be grown outdoors in some regions, the arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum) is typically grown as a houseplant. The arrowhead plant can be grown alone or in a mixed planting for additional interest. As the plant ages, however, it will begin to vine; therefore, it may be a good idea to grow the arrowhead plant in a hanging basket. Likewise, the plant can be trained on a pole or trellis for support.
Arrowhead Plant Care
Overall, arrowhead plant care is quite easy. The arrowhead plant should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Although the plant enjoys some moisture, it should not be kept too wet, which may lead to root rot. It prefers temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16 and 24 C.) but can tolerate a wider range, if necessary. Proper arrowhead plant care requires humid conditions, especially during dry winter months. Mist the plant daily or place its container on a tray filled with pebbles and water to increase humidity for optimal growth. The arrowhead plant can be fertilized monthly with a balanced fertilizer. The leaves change shape as the plant matures, beginning as an arrowhead shape, and then changing into three to five finger-like sections. Leaves are generally green in color but there are many varieties that include variegated leaves of differing shades. The heavily variegated varieties require bright, filtered light. Average light is the norm for solid green varieties or those with less variegation. Keep them away from direct sunlight, as this will cause the arrowhead plant to burn or bleach. The arrowhead plant will tolerate low light levels on occasion.
Arrowhead Plant Root Structure
The arrowhead plant root structure is quite extensive, spreading and growing to the point of becoming invasive in the wild. Even within a contained environment, because of arrowhead plant root structure, the plant should be repotted every second spring. This plant can also be propagated through division, cuttings (which can be rooted easily in water), and air layering. Gloves should be worn when working with the arrowhead plant, as its sap can be irritating to sensitive individuals.
If the arrowhead-shaped foliage is preferred, simply cut off the climbing stems as they develop. The plant will take on a bushier appearance, with less climbing, and the leaves will remain more arrow shaped. Really, with a little diligence, arrowhead plant care is simple. Taking proper care of your arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum) will bring you many rewards.
Arrowhead Plant Care
Overall, arrowhead plant care is quite easy. The arrowhead plant should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Although the plant enjoys some moisture, it should not be kept too wet, which may lead to root rot. It prefers temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16 and 24 C.) but can tolerate a wider range, if necessary. Proper arrowhead plant care requires humid conditions, especially during dry winter months. Mist the plant daily or place its container on a tray filled with pebbles and water to increase humidity for optimal growth. The arrowhead plant can be fertilized monthly with a balanced fertilizer. The leaves change shape as the plant matures, beginning as an arrowhead shape, and then changing into three to five finger-like sections. Leaves are generally green in color but there are many varieties that include variegated leaves of differing shades. The heavily variegated varieties require bright, filtered light. Average light is the norm for solid green varieties or those with less variegation. Keep them away from direct sunlight, as this will cause the arrowhead plant to burn or bleach. The arrowhead plant will tolerate low light levels on occasion.
Arrowhead Plant Root Structure
The arrowhead plant root structure is quite extensive, spreading and growing to the point of becoming invasive in the wild. Even within a contained environment, because of arrowhead plant root structure, the plant should be repotted every second spring. This plant can also be propagated through division, cuttings (which can be rooted easily in water), and air layering. Gloves should be worn when working with the arrowhead plant, as its sap can be irritating to sensitive individuals.
If the arrowhead-shaped foliage is preferred, simply cut off the climbing stems as they develop. The plant will take on a bushier appearance, with less climbing, and the leaves will remain more arrow shaped. Really, with a little diligence, arrowhead plant care is simple. Taking proper care of your arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum) will bring you many rewards.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
While many people have both heard of and dealt with root rot in houseplants, most are not aware that this disease can also have an adverse effect on garden plants outdoors, including shrubs and trees. Learning more about the cause of root rot and how to look for early signs of root rot in garden plants will go a long way in its treatment. For root rot prevention and treatment info, keep reading. What is Root Rot? Root rot is a disease that attacks the roots of plants growing in wet soil. Since the disease spreads through the soil, the only root rot remedy for garden plants is often to remove and destroy the plant. However, you can try these corrective measures if you want to attempt to save a particularly valuable plant: Keep the soil as dry as possible. Don’t irrigate the plant unless the soil is almost completely dry. Pull back the soil to allow moisture to evaporate from the soil. The cause of root rot is a fungus. Species of the Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium fungi are the usual culprits. These fungi thrive in wet soil, and you can transfer them from one part of the garden to another when you transplant ailing plants.
When it comes to identifying root rot, look at the plants. Plants with root rot can’t absorb moisture and nourishment from the soil properly. The plants often resemble those suffering from drought and stress and mineral deficiencies. Signs of root rot in garden plants include stunting, wilting and discolored leaves. Foliage and shoots die back and the entire plant soon dies. If you pull up a plant with root rot, you will see that the roots are brown and soft instead of firm and white. Trees with root rot develop cankers, ooze reddish or black sap, and sometimes develop dark vertical streaks. Treatment for Root Rot The best root rot remedy for garden plants is prevention. Prevent root rot by filling in low parts of the garden and improving the soil with organic matter so that it drains freely. If you can’t improve the drainage, use raised beds where the where plant roots sit above the soil. Taking care not to overwater garden plants will also help. There are chemical fungicides and biological agents labeled as treatment for root rot disease; however, you should not use these products unless you know which fungus is causing the problem.
Once you know which fungus you are treating, your agricultural extension agent can recommend a product to treat that specific fungus. Fungicides are toxic chemicals that should be used with caution. Read the label and follow the instructions exactly. Store them in their original container and out of the reach of children. Even when all of the precautions are taken in the garden, root rot may still occasionally become an issue. However, if you pay attention to the signs of root rot in garden plants, you’ll have a better chance of saving your plants.
When it comes to identifying root rot, look at the plants. Plants with root rot can’t absorb moisture and nourishment from the soil properly. The plants often resemble those suffering from drought and stress and mineral deficiencies. Signs of root rot in garden plants include stunting, wilting and discolored leaves. Foliage and shoots die back and the entire plant soon dies. If you pull up a plant with root rot, you will see that the roots are brown and soft instead of firm and white. Trees with root rot develop cankers, ooze reddish or black sap, and sometimes develop dark vertical streaks. Treatment for Root Rot The best root rot remedy for garden plants is prevention. Prevent root rot by filling in low parts of the garden and improving the soil with organic matter so that it drains freely. If you can’t improve the drainage, use raised beds where the where plant roots sit above the soil. Taking care not to overwater garden plants will also help. There are chemical fungicides and biological agents labeled as treatment for root rot disease; however, you should not use these products unless you know which fungus is causing the problem.
Once you know which fungus you are treating, your agricultural extension agent can recommend a product to treat that specific fungus. Fungicides are toxic chemicals that should be used with caution. Read the label and follow the instructions exactly. Store them in their original container and out of the reach of children. Even when all of the precautions are taken in the garden, root rot may still occasionally become an issue. However, if you pay attention to the signs of root rot in garden plants, you’ll have a better chance of saving your plants.
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Gina
2017年05月23日
It’s tough finding a way to show off your creativity in the garden. But what better place to create some artistic vibe then in the biggest art studio on earth? Your garden is part of the great outdoors, and should be an inspiration! Here are five ways to make simple, creative and up-cycled (BTW) plant containers that look more like art than utility!
There you have it! Five creative, artsy plant containers that will make your garden the wow spot of the block!
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Micky
2017年05月23日
During the winter, you may think there is not much to be done outside. But I love the outdoors the whole year, and I think there is always a way to find happiness in the garden! So take advantage of those frigid outdoor temps, don some good gloves and a scarf, and head out to the garden to create these 7 crafty outdoor projects with ice! Our feature project, above, is from Kate at ‘Faceless 39’. She shows us how to make decorative ice gems for your garden with step by step photos… This is an easy project that’s lots of fun!
Learn to make ice lanterns, from ‘Willowday’! I love how the candle glows against the melting ice… these would be amazing along a walkway for a holiday party!
I have never seen a craft quite like these winter ice sun catchers from Tracy on ‘Hubpages’. Easy to follow tutorial, these are so cool! What if you just used all blues, to create a look of glowing ice?
hese DIY ice luminaries from Gabrielle at ‘Design Mom’ are the perfect way to light up a porch or add splash to a garden to be viewed from indoors, perhaps during a holiday get together? If it’s not quite cold enough to freeze them hard outdoors, and you are just using them for an event, you can freeze them on a cookie sheet in your freezer, then place outside just before use.
From ‘Queen Vanna Creations’, these ice balloons use food coloring to get that bright color. Fun!
Want to make an ice project that looks like you suddenly have the ability to craft your own giant snowflakes? Make lace and ice, with the help of ‘Resurrection Fern’. Easy and so pretty!
Lastly, if you want to make those great ice globes, and you want to do it the easy way… check out these ice globe luminary kits by ‘Gardeners Supply‘. For the amount of fun you get from them, they aren’t real expensive.
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Micky
2017年05月23日
Some of us really look forward to our outdoor Christmas lighting each year… to some of us it’s just an obligatory pain… That’s kind of sad, becasue it gives us a reason to celebrate the outdoors at a time of year when we don’t get out into the garden much. I think those who dread it only feel that way becasue they haven’t been inspired! So here are some great ideas for DIY Christmas outdoor lighting to really make you want to celebrate the season!
When I saw these Christmas light balls for the first time, all I could think was “wow”. Simple, using ordinary chicken wire and lights, and such an impact! Find out how to create these Christmas light balls from Christmas Lights Etc…
Rose Knows Coupons has a tutorial on creating these outdoor lighted holiday gift boxes. Much less expensive than the ones in the store!
Wanna know how to make these shooting star lights? Go see the tutorial here!
Write a message in lights to share with all who pass by. Here they used LED rope lighting. The rope lighting is secured to a grid of wire wreath forms with heavy-duty cable ties.
This is one of the most creative DIY lighting projects I’ve seen… net lights draped over an outdoor table, and lighted globes hung as a “chandelier”… Like party time for the Christmas creatures!
Love this message lighting sign by Little Bit Funky. Find out how they made this giant lighted star for less than $5. I would either use dark paint, or lights with white wires to make it a little neater looking during the day, but whatever you like!
This is a great idea for the patio…fill your hanging baskets with led lights, then push some through to the outside… Fill the basket with some garden goodies!
Lighted lanterns…just insert led lights into anything clear!
This last one is just plain old good inspiration…old fashioned bulb multi lights wrapped around an older bicycle… Charming!
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