文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Pumpkins are a popular vegetable for a reason: they are delicious, fun and easy to grow. It doesn't take all that much to cultivate pumpkins in your yard: soil, space, water and sunlight. But if you want to grow big pumpkins, the kind you might see winning the blue ribbon at a county fair, it takes a little extra effort, and some good old fashioned tricks. Feeding sugar to your pumpkins, for instance, can make them grow much bigger than just sun and water alone will.
Step 1
Choose a spot in your yard or garden with at least six hours of full sun per day, an even pH balance and well-draining soil.
Step 2
Buy a bag of compost, and mix two or three trowel-fulls into each square foot of growing space.
Step 3
Place a group of two to three seedlings 2 or 3 inches apart from each other and cover their roots with soil. If you want to grow more than one pumpkin, place another patch of one or two seedlings at least 5 feet away.
Step 4
Water your pumpkin plants between four and seven times a week, so that they are always damp, and get about 2 inches of water per week.
Step 5
Wait until a pumpkin develops, and has grown to be about 6 inches across.
Step 6
Fill a bowl with 50 percent water and 50 percent white granulated sugar. If you want to use milk instead of water, this will work well too. Dunk your cotton string into this mixture.
Step 7
Make a small slit with your knife in the base of the pumpkin's stem, about 4 inches above the pumpkin. Insert one end of your cotton string into the slit, and keep the other end in your sugar water mixture. The pumpkin will slowly suck up the sugar mixture, helping it grow bigger.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the sugar mixture, and replenish the bowl when it is empty. Keep this up for at least two weeks, or until you are ready to harvest your large pumpkin.
Step 1
Choose a spot in your yard or garden with at least six hours of full sun per day, an even pH balance and well-draining soil.
Step 2
Buy a bag of compost, and mix two or three trowel-fulls into each square foot of growing space.
Step 3
Place a group of two to three seedlings 2 or 3 inches apart from each other and cover their roots with soil. If you want to grow more than one pumpkin, place another patch of one or two seedlings at least 5 feet away.
Step 4
Water your pumpkin plants between four and seven times a week, so that they are always damp, and get about 2 inches of water per week.
Step 5
Wait until a pumpkin develops, and has grown to be about 6 inches across.
Step 6
Fill a bowl with 50 percent water and 50 percent white granulated sugar. If you want to use milk instead of water, this will work well too. Dunk your cotton string into this mixture.
Step 7
Make a small slit with your knife in the base of the pumpkin's stem, about 4 inches above the pumpkin. Insert one end of your cotton string into the slit, and keep the other end in your sugar water mixture. The pumpkin will slowly suck up the sugar mixture, helping it grow bigger.
Step 8
Keep an eye on the sugar mixture, and replenish the bowl when it is empty. Keep this up for at least two weeks, or until you are ready to harvest your large pumpkin.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
When grown in the ground, asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) needs plenty of room for its large root system. When garden space is at a premium, however, you can grow asparagus in a container, as long as you're prepared for a smaller plant and a less bountiful harvest than you'd get with in-ground asparagus. Asparagus also spreads. So growing it in a container can help keep it from getting into parts of the garden where you don't want it to be. Asparagus grows as a perennial plant in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, but some of its varieties are perennial in different USDA zones.
Choosing Varieties
Because container-grown asparagus plants do not produce as prolifically as asparagus grown in the ground, the best cultivars for container-growing are those that produce the highest yields per plant. 'Jersey Knight' is one such cultivar. It produces many large spears, which are the plant's edible, new shoots, and it is perennial in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Container-grown asparagus needs a fast start. So choose asparagus crowns -- 1-year-old, bare-root plants -- rather than trying to grow the plants from seeds.
Selecting a Container
Asparagus plants need a deep container that is wide enough not to crowd them. Each plant's container should be at least 18 inches deep and 1 foot wide, or give each plant that much width in a wider container. A ceramic, plastic or wooden container will work, and a large plastic storage bin is an option. The plants require good drainage, though. So if a container you choose does not have drainage holes in its base, then drill them yourself.
Planting Crowns
In spring, add organic potting soil to your container until the top of the soil is about 6 1/2 inches from the top of the container. Work about 1 ounce of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 3 square feet of soil surface area into the top few inches of the soil.
Set the asparagus crowns about 6 inches apart, and spread their roots on the top of the soil. Cover the crowns with 3 inches of soil, and water the soil thoroughly. Set the container in a spot that gets about eight hours of direct sunshine per day. When the crowns have grown to about 3 inches in height, cover them with 3 more inches of soil.
Fertilizing and Watering the Plants
Monitor the soil's moisture, and provide water whenever the soil dries out to a depth of about 2 inches. During hot, dry periods, the soil may need water daily.
Fertilize every spring with a handful of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer, scattering it around the crowns and lightly scratching it into the surface of the soil. Water thoroughly after applying the fertilizer.
Overwintering with Mulch
After the asparagus plants' foliage dies back in fall, cover the plants with mulch to protect them through winter. The plants' own die-back foliage can function as a convenient mulch.
Harvesting Spears
The plants probably will be ready for harvest in the third year after they were planted. In the third year, harvest the plants' spears one time after they reach 6 to 8 inches in height. In following years, you can harvest spears continuously for six to eight weeks. The spears emerge above ground from the root crowns.
Asparagus plants grown in the ground may continue to produce well for as long as 20 years, but container-grown plants will likely be productive for only three to five years.
Choosing Varieties
Because container-grown asparagus plants do not produce as prolifically as asparagus grown in the ground, the best cultivars for container-growing are those that produce the highest yields per plant. 'Jersey Knight' is one such cultivar. It produces many large spears, which are the plant's edible, new shoots, and it is perennial in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Container-grown asparagus needs a fast start. So choose asparagus crowns -- 1-year-old, bare-root plants -- rather than trying to grow the plants from seeds.
Selecting a Container
Asparagus plants need a deep container that is wide enough not to crowd them. Each plant's container should be at least 18 inches deep and 1 foot wide, or give each plant that much width in a wider container. A ceramic, plastic or wooden container will work, and a large plastic storage bin is an option. The plants require good drainage, though. So if a container you choose does not have drainage holes in its base, then drill them yourself.
Planting Crowns
In spring, add organic potting soil to your container until the top of the soil is about 6 1/2 inches from the top of the container. Work about 1 ounce of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer per 3 square feet of soil surface area into the top few inches of the soil.
Set the asparagus crowns about 6 inches apart, and spread their roots on the top of the soil. Cover the crowns with 3 inches of soil, and water the soil thoroughly. Set the container in a spot that gets about eight hours of direct sunshine per day. When the crowns have grown to about 3 inches in height, cover them with 3 more inches of soil.
Fertilizing and Watering the Plants
Monitor the soil's moisture, and provide water whenever the soil dries out to a depth of about 2 inches. During hot, dry periods, the soil may need water daily.
Fertilize every spring with a handful of granular 5-10-10 fertilizer, scattering it around the crowns and lightly scratching it into the surface of the soil. Water thoroughly after applying the fertilizer.
Overwintering with Mulch
After the asparagus plants' foliage dies back in fall, cover the plants with mulch to protect them through winter. The plants' own die-back foliage can function as a convenient mulch.
Harvesting Spears
The plants probably will be ready for harvest in the third year after they were planted. In the third year, harvest the plants' spears one time after they reach 6 to 8 inches in height. In following years, you can harvest spears continuously for six to eight weeks. The spears emerge above ground from the root crowns.
Asparagus plants grown in the ground may continue to produce well for as long as 20 years, but container-grown plants will likely be productive for only three to five years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月13日
Weeds are the bane of every gardener. They seem to flourish with no care or support while the plants the gardeners want require attention almost daily. Weeds steal water, nutrients, sunlight and space from vegetable plants and jeopardize the viability of the garden. Gardeners must take defensive measures to stop and control weeds to enjoy a plentiful harvest of vegetables.
Cultivation Method
Cultivating or tilling the soil around vegetable plants in a garden is an effective, nontoxic method for weed and grass removal. A day or two after a soaking rain is the best time to hand-pull weeds. Wear waterproof garden gloves; you might also want a small stool to sit on. Reach your fingers into the soil and grab the main root ball of the weed before pulling. Twist as you pull to break the weed's ancillary roots.
The use of a hoe or manual cultivator with a long handle trumps hand-pulling if weeding in the standing position is more comfortable. The tines of a cultivator loosen and turn soil, but the unwanted plants often require hand-pulling anyway.
While weeds typically grow roots near the surface of soil, some vegetable plants do as well. The closer the weed is to the vegetable plant, the greater the risk of damaging the vegetable plant's roots with cultivating tools. When working close to vegetable plants, pull weeds by hand.
The Old Farmer's Almanac reports that a German study found that cultivating soil at night resulted in a 78 percent reduction in new weed germination. Weed seeds often need only a flash of light, which turning soil provides, to start growing.
Mulching Method
Distributing a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulching materials around vegetable plants in your garden discourages the growth of weeds and unwanted grass. Mulch blocks the sun so new seeds cannot germinate. When spreading mulch, keep the material 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of the plants.
Keep in mind mulch modifies ground temperatures. Inorganic mulch materials such as plastic sheeting, old carpet or weed-blocking fabric can warm soil. Warm soil benefits seeds undergoing germination or newly transplanted seedlings.
However, when summer's heat arrives, organic mulch materials excel at cooling soil. Organic sources of mulch include mature compost, shredded wood, pecan shells, wood bark, grass clippings, straw, shredded leaves and newspaper.
Sawdust is a poor choice for mulch as the bacteria needed to break it down steals nitrogen from the soil and garden plants.
Vinegar Method
Weeds cannot stand up against a soaking spray of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid that lowers the pH to an intolerable level. Mix 4 ounces lemon juice concentrate with 1 quart white or apple cider vinegar in mixing bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Pour mixture into the spray bottle.
Spray vinegar mixture directly on the targeted weed. Coat the entire weed with the vinegar mixture. Wait to spray until the hottest part of the day. Take care to not let the spray drift over to garden plants. This vinegar mixture will kill the leaves and roots of young weeds. Established weeds with strong roots will likely require several applications. Spray established weeds daily until the roots die.
Cultivation Method
Cultivating or tilling the soil around vegetable plants in a garden is an effective, nontoxic method for weed and grass removal. A day or two after a soaking rain is the best time to hand-pull weeds. Wear waterproof garden gloves; you might also want a small stool to sit on. Reach your fingers into the soil and grab the main root ball of the weed before pulling. Twist as you pull to break the weed's ancillary roots.
The use of a hoe or manual cultivator with a long handle trumps hand-pulling if weeding in the standing position is more comfortable. The tines of a cultivator loosen and turn soil, but the unwanted plants often require hand-pulling anyway.
While weeds typically grow roots near the surface of soil, some vegetable plants do as well. The closer the weed is to the vegetable plant, the greater the risk of damaging the vegetable plant's roots with cultivating tools. When working close to vegetable plants, pull weeds by hand.
The Old Farmer's Almanac reports that a German study found that cultivating soil at night resulted in a 78 percent reduction in new weed germination. Weed seeds often need only a flash of light, which turning soil provides, to start growing.
Mulching Method
Distributing a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulching materials around vegetable plants in your garden discourages the growth of weeds and unwanted grass. Mulch blocks the sun so new seeds cannot germinate. When spreading mulch, keep the material 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of the plants.
Keep in mind mulch modifies ground temperatures. Inorganic mulch materials such as plastic sheeting, old carpet or weed-blocking fabric can warm soil. Warm soil benefits seeds undergoing germination or newly transplanted seedlings.
However, when summer's heat arrives, organic mulch materials excel at cooling soil. Organic sources of mulch include mature compost, shredded wood, pecan shells, wood bark, grass clippings, straw, shredded leaves and newspaper.
Sawdust is a poor choice for mulch as the bacteria needed to break it down steals nitrogen from the soil and garden plants.
Vinegar Method
Weeds cannot stand up against a soaking spray of vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid that lowers the pH to an intolerable level. Mix 4 ounces lemon juice concentrate with 1 quart white or apple cider vinegar in mixing bowl. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Pour mixture into the spray bottle.
Spray vinegar mixture directly on the targeted weed. Coat the entire weed with the vinegar mixture. Wait to spray until the hottest part of the day. Take care to not let the spray drift over to garden plants. This vinegar mixture will kill the leaves and roots of young weeds. Established weeds with strong roots will likely require several applications. Spray established weeds daily until the roots die.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月06日
Onions are ideally suited for container gardening. Even a 6- to 10-inch container is large enough to get started, and can fit easily on a balcony or doorstep. Growing onions in containers is a perfect solution for space-challenged gardeners. As an added bonus, container gardening is easy on sore knees and backs as very little bending and stooping is required. Plant onions in spring and in a few weeks you'll have fresh, delicious onions.
Step 1
Purchase onion sets at a nursery or garden center. Sets, which are small onions that were started the previous year, are the easiest and most effective way of planting onions in containers. Small sets, which are smaller than a dime, are best for growing large onions for use in cooking or for slicing. Sets larger than a dime are best for growing small green onions often used in salads, and will be ready for harvest very quickly. Sets can be planted in March or April.
Step 2
Prepare a container at least 6 to 10 inches in diameter. Any container with drainage holes in the bottom will work. Fill the container with any good quality commercial potting soil.
Step 3
Plant large onion sets about 1 inch below the surface of the soil. Plant the sets close enough to touch, as the green onions will be harvested before crowding becomes problematic. Small sets, which will be used for large, dry onions, should be planted with 2 to 4 inches between each set.
Step 4
Water the onions immediately. Check the moisture daily by poking your finger into the top of the soil. If the top inch of the soil is dry, water the onions until water runs through the drainage hole. Don't water again until the top inch of the soil is dry. During hot, dry weather, onions may need water every day.
Step 5
Fertilize the onions two to four weeks after planting and repeat every two to three weeks. Use a regular water-soluble fertilizer applied according to the directions on the package. Alternatively, use a time-release granular fertilizer that can be mixed into the soil at planting time.
Step 6
Begin harvesting green onions when the tops are at least 6 inches tall. Green onions are best harvested when they are small, as the onions will develop a stronger flavor as they get larger.
Step 7
Harvest large onions in July or August when the tops of the plants begin to fall over. Harvest in the morning and lay the onions on top of the soil to dry until afternoon. Braid the tops of the onions in bunches of six to eight onions and hang the bunches in a warm, dry place to dry for two to three weeks
Step 1
Purchase onion sets at a nursery or garden center. Sets, which are small onions that were started the previous year, are the easiest and most effective way of planting onions in containers. Small sets, which are smaller than a dime, are best for growing large onions for use in cooking or for slicing. Sets larger than a dime are best for growing small green onions often used in salads, and will be ready for harvest very quickly. Sets can be planted in March or April.
Step 2
Prepare a container at least 6 to 10 inches in diameter. Any container with drainage holes in the bottom will work. Fill the container with any good quality commercial potting soil.
Step 3
Plant large onion sets about 1 inch below the surface of the soil. Plant the sets close enough to touch, as the green onions will be harvested before crowding becomes problematic. Small sets, which will be used for large, dry onions, should be planted with 2 to 4 inches between each set.
Step 4
Water the onions immediately. Check the moisture daily by poking your finger into the top of the soil. If the top inch of the soil is dry, water the onions until water runs through the drainage hole. Don't water again until the top inch of the soil is dry. During hot, dry weather, onions may need water every day.
Step 5
Fertilize the onions two to four weeks after planting and repeat every two to three weeks. Use a regular water-soluble fertilizer applied according to the directions on the package. Alternatively, use a time-release granular fertilizer that can be mixed into the soil at planting time.
Step 6
Begin harvesting green onions when the tops are at least 6 inches tall. Green onions are best harvested when they are small, as the onions will develop a stronger flavor as they get larger.
Step 7
Harvest large onions in July or August when the tops of the plants begin to fall over. Harvest in the morning and lay the onions on top of the soil to dry until afternoon. Braid the tops of the onions in bunches of six to eight onions and hang the bunches in a warm, dry place to dry for two to three weeks
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
With container gardens, you can have fresh vegetables all year even when garden space is not available. Zucchini is a summer squash that grows best in full sun and warm conditions. As container culture gains popularity, many new dwarf or small growing varieties of vegetables are being developed; compact zucchini varieties are no exception, and include the culitvars Black Magic, Hybrid Jackpot, Gold Rush and Classic. Grow zucchini indoors all year round. In winter, place the pots in a south facing window where they will get the most sun.
Step 1
Fill 2-inch pots with soil-less seed starting mix. Use a pre-mixed formula available at garden centers or make your own by mixing equal parts vermiculite and peat moss. Dampen the mixture and fill the 2-inch pots.
Step 2
Place one zucchini seed in each pot and cover it with 1/2 inch of soil. Place the pots in dappled or filtered sun with a temperature range between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the soil around the seedlings damp with frequent light applications of water. The seedlings will germinate in five to seven days and be ready to transplant into a large, permanent container in three to four weeks.
Step 3
Fill one 5-gallon container for each zucchini plant. Use a well-draining soil-less potting mix and fill the pot to 1-inch below the lip of the container. Garden centers sell pre-formulated mixes for indoor vegetable container growing. Alternately, mix your own by combining equal parts loam, peat and coarse clean sand. Add a 14-14-14 liquid fertilizer to the mix. Check the back of the package to determine the correct amount.
Step 4
Dampen the potting mix with water until it is light and crumbly. Scoop out a shallow hole in the center of the pot large enough to accommodate the root ball of one zucchini plant. Select the strongest of the zucchini seedlings for planting.
Step 5
Slide the seedling out of the small pot and place it into the large container with the base of the stem planted at the same depth in the soil as it was in the seeding pot. Fill in around the roots and pat down the soil to secure the seedling in the pot. Place the potted zucchini in a sunny window where it will get at least five to six hours of sun each day.
Step 6
Fertilize once a week using a fertilizer formulated for complete nutrition. There are many combinations on the market for vegetable growing. A good, basic fertilizer formula like a 5-10-10 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer is suitable. Check the package for the correct application amount and method.
Step 7
Water when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, usually daily or every other day for container grown zucchini plants. Soak the soil thoroughly at each watering. Place the pot on a saucer or tray to catch water and protect surfaces. Empty the saucer after every watering to prevent water from sitting around the root system.
Step 8
Harvest the zucchini plants as when they are 3 to 4 inches long and still tender. Harvest continuously as the fruits ripen to encourage the plant to keep producing. Zucchini are ready to harvest 50 to 70 days after planting.
Step 1
Fill 2-inch pots with soil-less seed starting mix. Use a pre-mixed formula available at garden centers or make your own by mixing equal parts vermiculite and peat moss. Dampen the mixture and fill the 2-inch pots.
Step 2
Place one zucchini seed in each pot and cover it with 1/2 inch of soil. Place the pots in dappled or filtered sun with a temperature range between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the soil around the seedlings damp with frequent light applications of water. The seedlings will germinate in five to seven days and be ready to transplant into a large, permanent container in three to four weeks.
Step 3
Fill one 5-gallon container for each zucchini plant. Use a well-draining soil-less potting mix and fill the pot to 1-inch below the lip of the container. Garden centers sell pre-formulated mixes for indoor vegetable container growing. Alternately, mix your own by combining equal parts loam, peat and coarse clean sand. Add a 14-14-14 liquid fertilizer to the mix. Check the back of the package to determine the correct amount.
Step 4
Dampen the potting mix with water until it is light and crumbly. Scoop out a shallow hole in the center of the pot large enough to accommodate the root ball of one zucchini plant. Select the strongest of the zucchini seedlings for planting.
Step 5
Slide the seedling out of the small pot and place it into the large container with the base of the stem planted at the same depth in the soil as it was in the seeding pot. Fill in around the roots and pat down the soil to secure the seedling in the pot. Place the potted zucchini in a sunny window where it will get at least five to six hours of sun each day.
Step 6
Fertilize once a week using a fertilizer formulated for complete nutrition. There are many combinations on the market for vegetable growing. A good, basic fertilizer formula like a 5-10-10 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer is suitable. Check the package for the correct application amount and method.
Step 7
Water when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, usually daily or every other day for container grown zucchini plants. Soak the soil thoroughly at each watering. Place the pot on a saucer or tray to catch water and protect surfaces. Empty the saucer after every watering to prevent water from sitting around the root system.
Step 8
Harvest the zucchini plants as when they are 3 to 4 inches long and still tender. Harvest continuously as the fruits ripen to encourage the plant to keep producing. Zucchini are ready to harvest 50 to 70 days after planting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月28日
If you enjoy vegetable gardening, you can grow more in less space if you plant certain crops on a trellis. Many types of vining plants grow well when trained onto a trellis, which keeps vegetables off the ground, evenly exposes the entire plant to sun and makes harvesting easier by eliminating the need to bend over when picking the crop.
Vining Plants
Plants that are tendril-producing vines attach readily to a trellis, although gently winding young vines around the support can help get them started. These types include traditional, vining varieties of peas (Pisum sativum), which grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. Peas do best in cool spring weather and produce a crop in seven to ten weeks. If you like green beans, choose vining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), growing them on a trellis for a crop of free-hanging, straight beans easy to see among the vines. Pole beans are annual plants that twine readily as vines lengthen and yield two or three times as many beans as shorter, bush varieties of beans.
Heavy Producers
Plants that produce many fruits during the season can also benefit from trellising, which helps support the heavy crop. Most types of cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) do well on a trellis, with some varieties producing vines that can be up to 6 feet high. Cucumbers grow as annuals and thrive in warm weather for good production. Indeterminate types of tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) also do especially well on a trellis because they keep growing and producing until fall, with some vines becoming up to 6 feet high. Also annual plants, indeterminate tomatoes often produce large clusters of heavy fruit, so growing them on a trellis provides extra support while giving the entire plant good sun exposure. Use soft ties to attach tomato stems gently but securely to the trellis.
Other Vegetables
You can also use a trellis to grow any plant that has fruit smaller than a volleyball, or less than 8 1/2 inches in diameter, and weighs under about 3 pounds. For example, some varieties of summer squash (Cuccubita pepo) can thrive on a trellis -- use soft ties to attach smooth-stemmed varieties that lack tendrils. Smaller fruited varieties of winter squash (Curcubita moschata), such as the acorn type, are also appropriate choices for trellis-growing. If you see an especially large squash on one of these vines, use some netting or nylon cloth to construct a small "hammock" for support, tying the ends of the hammock to the trellis. Both summer and winter squash grow as annuals throughout the United States.
Trellis Types and Plant Choices
To construct a trellis, select two sturdy supports, such as 6-foot metal or wood stakes, spaced about 5 or 6 feet apart and pounded 1 foot deep into the ground. For a wider trellis, add a third stake, dividing the trellis' width into two sections, with the third stake in the middle. Suspend a 5-foot high length of plastic mesh or chicken wire between the stakes, or attach a length of wire across the tops of the stakes and tie 5-foot lengths of sturdy twine or wire at intervals along this vertical wire, allowing these to hang down to the ground. Once you've planted vegetables along the trellis, check young plants every few days and gently weave the growing tips into the mesh or around the wires as needed. When purchasing seeds or plants, check labels and only choose vining types, instead of nonvining, bushy varieties that won't grow well on a trellis.
Vining Plants
Plants that are tendril-producing vines attach readily to a trellis, although gently winding young vines around the support can help get them started. These types include traditional, vining varieties of peas (Pisum sativum), which grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. Peas do best in cool spring weather and produce a crop in seven to ten weeks. If you like green beans, choose vining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), growing them on a trellis for a crop of free-hanging, straight beans easy to see among the vines. Pole beans are annual plants that twine readily as vines lengthen and yield two or three times as many beans as shorter, bush varieties of beans.
Heavy Producers
Plants that produce many fruits during the season can also benefit from trellising, which helps support the heavy crop. Most types of cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) do well on a trellis, with some varieties producing vines that can be up to 6 feet high. Cucumbers grow as annuals and thrive in warm weather for good production. Indeterminate types of tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) also do especially well on a trellis because they keep growing and producing until fall, with some vines becoming up to 6 feet high. Also annual plants, indeterminate tomatoes often produce large clusters of heavy fruit, so growing them on a trellis provides extra support while giving the entire plant good sun exposure. Use soft ties to attach tomato stems gently but securely to the trellis.
Other Vegetables
You can also use a trellis to grow any plant that has fruit smaller than a volleyball, or less than 8 1/2 inches in diameter, and weighs under about 3 pounds. For example, some varieties of summer squash (Cuccubita pepo) can thrive on a trellis -- use soft ties to attach smooth-stemmed varieties that lack tendrils. Smaller fruited varieties of winter squash (Curcubita moschata), such as the acorn type, are also appropriate choices for trellis-growing. If you see an especially large squash on one of these vines, use some netting or nylon cloth to construct a small "hammock" for support, tying the ends of the hammock to the trellis. Both summer and winter squash grow as annuals throughout the United States.
Trellis Types and Plant Choices
To construct a trellis, select two sturdy supports, such as 6-foot metal or wood stakes, spaced about 5 or 6 feet apart and pounded 1 foot deep into the ground. For a wider trellis, add a third stake, dividing the trellis' width into two sections, with the third stake in the middle. Suspend a 5-foot high length of plastic mesh or chicken wire between the stakes, or attach a length of wire across the tops of the stakes and tie 5-foot lengths of sturdy twine or wire at intervals along this vertical wire, allowing these to hang down to the ground. Once you've planted vegetables along the trellis, check young plants every few days and gently weave the growing tips into the mesh or around the wires as needed. When purchasing seeds or plants, check labels and only choose vining types, instead of nonvining, bushy varieties that won't grow well on a trellis.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Spaghetti squash, one of the common and popular winter squash varieties, grows into a large oval squash with a yellow or orange skin. Most spaghetti squash varieties mature in three to four months. If you lack garden space, grow a vine variety of spaghetti squash on a trellis to conserve soil area. Because the spaghetti squash become quite large as they mature, rig a support system for the growing squash.
Step 1
Prepare a sunny growing location after the final spring frost. Cultivate the soil with the garden spade down to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Add 4 inches of compost to the top of the soil and work the compost and the soil completely to mix them. Rake the soil surface smooth.
Step 2
Insert the wood or metal trellis system into the soil. Pound the bottom of the trellis into the soil with a hammer to drive it at least 8 inches into the ground.
Step 3
Plant the spaghetti squash seeds along both sides of the trellis, positioning the seeds four to six inches from the trellis. Sow two seeds together about 1 inch deep, spacing the seeds about 12 inches apart. Cover the seeds lightly with soil.
Step 4
Water the seeds generously immediately after planting and keep the soil moist while the seeds germinate – about one to two weeks. Provide water for the growing spaghetti squash plants if less than 1 inch of rain falls in a one-week period.
Step 5
Thin the seedlings when they reach a height of 4 inches. Remove the weakest seedlings to leave one plant growing every 12 inches along the trellis.
Step 6
Apply the fertilizer to the seedlings by sprinkling 1/4 lb. of granular fertilizer for every 10 feet of seedlings. Apply the fertilizer approximately three weeks after you see the first blossoms and work the fertilizer into the soil well with a hand rake.
Step 7
Pull weeds as they appear, to keep the soil area free of competing plants.
Step 8
Tie the vines to the trellis with the stretchy plant ties to train the vines. Support the main vines by tying them loosely to the trellis.
Step 9
Cut a 2-foot length of cheesecloth for each spaghetti squash that begins to grow on the plants. Tie the cheesecloth so it acts as a sling for the squash and tie the ends of the cheesecloth to the trellis.
Step 10
Harvest spaghetti squash before the first autumn frost, when the skins turn yellow. The skin should feel firm to the touch. Use a sharp knife to cut the squash from the vines, leaving about 3 inches of vine protruding from the squashes.
Step 1
Prepare a sunny growing location after the final spring frost. Cultivate the soil with the garden spade down to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Add 4 inches of compost to the top of the soil and work the compost and the soil completely to mix them. Rake the soil surface smooth.
Step 2
Insert the wood or metal trellis system into the soil. Pound the bottom of the trellis into the soil with a hammer to drive it at least 8 inches into the ground.
Step 3
Plant the spaghetti squash seeds along both sides of the trellis, positioning the seeds four to six inches from the trellis. Sow two seeds together about 1 inch deep, spacing the seeds about 12 inches apart. Cover the seeds lightly with soil.
Step 4
Water the seeds generously immediately after planting and keep the soil moist while the seeds germinate – about one to two weeks. Provide water for the growing spaghetti squash plants if less than 1 inch of rain falls in a one-week period.
Step 5
Thin the seedlings when they reach a height of 4 inches. Remove the weakest seedlings to leave one plant growing every 12 inches along the trellis.
Step 6
Apply the fertilizer to the seedlings by sprinkling 1/4 lb. of granular fertilizer for every 10 feet of seedlings. Apply the fertilizer approximately three weeks after you see the first blossoms and work the fertilizer into the soil well with a hand rake.
Step 7
Pull weeds as they appear, to keep the soil area free of competing plants.
Step 8
Tie the vines to the trellis with the stretchy plant ties to train the vines. Support the main vines by tying them loosely to the trellis.
Step 9
Cut a 2-foot length of cheesecloth for each spaghetti squash that begins to grow on the plants. Tie the cheesecloth so it acts as a sling for the squash and tie the ends of the cheesecloth to the trellis.
Step 10
Harvest spaghetti squash before the first autumn frost, when the skins turn yellow. The skin should feel firm to the touch. Use a sharp knife to cut the squash from the vines, leaving about 3 inches of vine protruding from the squashes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Lack of garden space shouldn't stop you from growing a crop of Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea gemmifera). Simply pot them up in containers on a porch, patio or even an unheated, bright indoor area. Brussels sprouts are annual plants that take between 80 and 110 days to grow before harvest. Dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties, such as "Catskill" or "Long Island," work best for containers. Brussels sprouts grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10.
Selecting the Right Pot
Grow Brussels sprouts, one to a pot, in 12-inch-diameter containers or grow multiple plants in large planters, leaving 24 inches between plants. Only use planters with drainage holes in the bottom. Plastic, wood, metal and terra cotta all work well. If you use old, reclaimed wood such as window boxes or troughs as planters, make sure it's not made pressure-treated wood or painted with lead or other toxic paint.
Potting Soil, Compost and Water
Mix 2 parts standard potting soil with 1 part well seasoned compost to grow Brussels sprouts in pots. This compost-potting soil mix provides nutrients for the first part of the growing season.
Water the containers when the top of the soil starts to feel dry, adding enough to thoroughly soak the potting soil all the way through. When excess water starts to leak out the bottom, it indicates the soil is thoroughly damp.
Growing Season and Sun Needs
This cold-weather crop grows best when the air temperature is between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Grow container Brussels sprouts outdoors starting in late winter, four weeks before the last frost. Started in late summer, they grow well through the fall and early winter. In mild climates, grow Brussels sprouts outdoors in winter.
Grow Brussels sprouts in pots where they will get at least six hours of sun each day.
Mid-Season Fertilizer
Fertilize mid-season, when the plants stand about 12 inches tall. Select a water-soluble fertilizer for vegetables and herbs with high nitrogen content for strong leaf production. Nitrogen is the first number on the label. A general purpose vegetable fertilizer, for example a 24-8-16 formula, works well. Use 1/2 teaspoon mixed with 1 gallon of water for each plant. Pour the water over the soil, then add more water if needed to soak the soil all the way through.
Selecting the Right Pot
Grow Brussels sprouts, one to a pot, in 12-inch-diameter containers or grow multiple plants in large planters, leaving 24 inches between plants. Only use planters with drainage holes in the bottom. Plastic, wood, metal and terra cotta all work well. If you use old, reclaimed wood such as window boxes or troughs as planters, make sure it's not made pressure-treated wood or painted with lead or other toxic paint.
Potting Soil, Compost and Water
Mix 2 parts standard potting soil with 1 part well seasoned compost to grow Brussels sprouts in pots. This compost-potting soil mix provides nutrients for the first part of the growing season.
Water the containers when the top of the soil starts to feel dry, adding enough to thoroughly soak the potting soil all the way through. When excess water starts to leak out the bottom, it indicates the soil is thoroughly damp.
Growing Season and Sun Needs
This cold-weather crop grows best when the air temperature is between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Grow container Brussels sprouts outdoors starting in late winter, four weeks before the last frost. Started in late summer, they grow well through the fall and early winter. In mild climates, grow Brussels sprouts outdoors in winter.
Grow Brussels sprouts in pots where they will get at least six hours of sun each day.
Mid-Season Fertilizer
Fertilize mid-season, when the plants stand about 12 inches tall. Select a water-soluble fertilizer for vegetables and herbs with high nitrogen content for strong leaf production. Nitrogen is the first number on the label. A general purpose vegetable fertilizer, for example a 24-8-16 formula, works well. Use 1/2 teaspoon mixed with 1 gallon of water for each plant. Pour the water over the soil, then add more water if needed to soak the soil all the way through.
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成长记
cclecombe
2018年02月12日
I’ve read yellowing on this plant means there’s too much light! I thought the space she’s in was pretty shaded but i guess not! Time to move!
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月24日
A vegetable garden isn't complete without a tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) or two, if only for the pleasure of fresh tomatoes in midsummer. Even if you don't have the space for a large garden, tomato plants are suited to container gardening. Which means that if you have a 5-gallon bucket or two hanging around, you have the makings for a tomato garden.
Preparing the Buckets
Wash and sterilize buckets, even if they're new, with a solution of 2 tablespoons household bleach in 1 gallon of water, and allow them to air-dry. Drill 1/4- to 1/2-inch holes on the lower edge of the bucket for drainage, spacing them about 2 inches apart all the way around. Place a 2-inch layer of coarse gravel or small stones in the bottom to prevent water from pooling, should the holes get plugged with soil.
Soil Choices
Growing mixes specifically designed for tomatoes go a long way toward minimizing the risk of soil-borne diseases, and provide the right conditions for proper root development. Not all potting soils are alike: Some are dense and wet, while others are fluffy but low in nutrients. Your best bet is to make your own, using equal parts potting soil, sphagnum or peat moss, and well-aged compost or manure. Fill the buckets to halfway and set aside the extra soil to fill in around the plants.
Planting Properly
Dig a hole in the center of the growing mix to equal the size of the seedling's roots. Set it gently into the hole and bring the soil around the base of the stem. Add more soil until it comes up to just below the seedling's lowest leaves and pat gently. Fertilize with a starter solution of 3 to 4 tablespoons of an 8-8-8 blend in 1 gallon of water, adding no more than 1 cup of the mixture to each plant. Fertilize again when the fruit appears, and every four to six weeks through the growing season.
Support Systems
Tomato plants can get top-heavy once the fruit starts to set. Install support in the form of a stake or a tomato cage into the bucket right after planting. Poke the stake into the soil about 2 inches from the plant so you don't injure the roots. As the plant grows, attach it loosely to the stake with gardening twine or tomato clips. Insert a tomato cage into the soil up to the bottom rungs, and tuck the branches in as the plant grows.
General Care
Buy seedlings from a garden center, or start your own indoors in early spring. Transfer them outside when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and when it is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit with no chance of frost. Place the buckets in a sunny spot, and inspect your tomato plants routinely for signs of fungal disease. Symptoms include dark, dead plant tissue, spots on the leaves and fruit, and fuzzy mildews on leaves and stems. Treat the plants with a solution of 1/2 to 2 ounces of liquid copper and 1 gallon of water, or according to label instructions. Spray all parts of the tomoatoes, including both sides of the leaves, when the disease appears, and every seven to 10 days until symptoms disappear.
Preparing the Buckets
Wash and sterilize buckets, even if they're new, with a solution of 2 tablespoons household bleach in 1 gallon of water, and allow them to air-dry. Drill 1/4- to 1/2-inch holes on the lower edge of the bucket for drainage, spacing them about 2 inches apart all the way around. Place a 2-inch layer of coarse gravel or small stones in the bottom to prevent water from pooling, should the holes get plugged with soil.
Soil Choices
Growing mixes specifically designed for tomatoes go a long way toward minimizing the risk of soil-borne diseases, and provide the right conditions for proper root development. Not all potting soils are alike: Some are dense and wet, while others are fluffy but low in nutrients. Your best bet is to make your own, using equal parts potting soil, sphagnum or peat moss, and well-aged compost or manure. Fill the buckets to halfway and set aside the extra soil to fill in around the plants.
Planting Properly
Dig a hole in the center of the growing mix to equal the size of the seedling's roots. Set it gently into the hole and bring the soil around the base of the stem. Add more soil until it comes up to just below the seedling's lowest leaves and pat gently. Fertilize with a starter solution of 3 to 4 tablespoons of an 8-8-8 blend in 1 gallon of water, adding no more than 1 cup of the mixture to each plant. Fertilize again when the fruit appears, and every four to six weeks through the growing season.
Support Systems
Tomato plants can get top-heavy once the fruit starts to set. Install support in the form of a stake or a tomato cage into the bucket right after planting. Poke the stake into the soil about 2 inches from the plant so you don't injure the roots. As the plant grows, attach it loosely to the stake with gardening twine or tomato clips. Insert a tomato cage into the soil up to the bottom rungs, and tuck the branches in as the plant grows.
General Care
Buy seedlings from a garden center, or start your own indoors in early spring. Transfer them outside when they are about 4 to 6 inches tall and when it is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit with no chance of frost. Place the buckets in a sunny spot, and inspect your tomato plants routinely for signs of fungal disease. Symptoms include dark, dead plant tissue, spots on the leaves and fruit, and fuzzy mildews on leaves and stems. Treat the plants with a solution of 1/2 to 2 ounces of liquid copper and 1 gallon of water, or according to label instructions. Spray all parts of the tomoatoes, including both sides of the leaves, when the disease appears, and every seven to 10 days until symptoms disappear.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
If you'd like to grow grape tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) but don't have space for a vegetable garden, don't be discouraged. Instead, grow a few plants in containers on a sunny porch or patio. It's relatively easy to enjoy a bountiful harvest from just a few potted plants, if you give them just a bit of special attention to keep the harvest coming.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
A hanging basket offers an alternative that takes advantage of vertical space when you lack yard space for a strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa) patch. Compact day-neutral and alpine strawberry varieties work best for the smaller space in hanging baskets because they don't spread with runners like June-bearing strawberries. Try strawberry cultivars such as "Albion" or "Seascape," which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9 and 4 through 9, respectively.
Hanging baskets made from peat moss, coir or other natural materials work best for strawberry hanging baskets because they drain well and mimic the straw commonly used around strawberry plants. A 12-inch diameter basket can typically hold three to five strawberry plants, so you can increase or decrease the number of plants and holes according to the basket size and personal preference. You can place all three to five plants in the top of the basket, or you can plant two in the top and add the remaining ones around the outside of the basket to create a dramatic, cascading look that also gives each plant more room to grow. After deciding how many plants you want, cut evenly spaced, 2-inch diameter holes into the bottom half of the basket liner. Remove the basket liner from the basket frame and cut the holes with a simple kitchen knife.
Planting the Strawberries
Strawberries are typically sold as bare root plants that should go into the ground (or container) as soon as possible. If you chose to plant strawberries in holes along the outside of the basket, insert the root end of the plants through the holes and into the empty basket. The root crown should be even with the basket. Stuff straw, coir, or peat moss around the holes to hold the plants and soil in place. Fill the basket with a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. Instead of purchasing bagged potting mix, try your own blend, such as two parts sphagnum peat moss to one part finished compost and one part perlite. Leave about 2 inches of space to the basket edge so you can plant the remaining strawberry plants in the top. Mulch applied up to the top edge helps retain some moisture in the soil.
Care Requirements
Strawberries need full sunlight -- a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Soil in hanging baskets dries out much faster than ground soil. Daily watering might be required during the hottest, driest parts of the growing season to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Regular all-purpose fertilizer application every two weeks gives plants a boost during the flowering and fruiting stages, but is only necessary once monthly before flowering begins. Mix the fertilizer to approximately half strength for container strawberries. Mix a water-soluble, all-purpose fertilizer at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon of fertilizer to 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer until the soil is evenly moist, using the fertilizer in place of the regular watering routine. Pinch off all flowers from day-neutral and alpine strawberries until July to delay the fruiting period.
Overwintering Strawberry Baskets
With proper care, strawberries grown in hanging baskets can be overwintered and produce more fruit the following year. Bring the entire basket indoors before the first frost, placing it in a protected location such as a garage or basement for the the winter. A garden shed or other unheated space works for overwintering, but spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of straw over the soil and around the crown of each plant to provide insulation. Burlap or old blankets wrapped around the container provide extra insulation to keep the soil warm. Water the plants when the soil feels dry, which is typically only necessary a few times each month. Strawberries can return outdoors in spring after all frost danger has passed. Replace the soil in the hanging baskets with fresh soil before rehanging them.
Hanging baskets made from peat moss, coir or other natural materials work best for strawberry hanging baskets because they drain well and mimic the straw commonly used around strawberry plants. A 12-inch diameter basket can typically hold three to five strawberry plants, so you can increase or decrease the number of plants and holes according to the basket size and personal preference. You can place all three to five plants in the top of the basket, or you can plant two in the top and add the remaining ones around the outside of the basket to create a dramatic, cascading look that also gives each plant more room to grow. After deciding how many plants you want, cut evenly spaced, 2-inch diameter holes into the bottom half of the basket liner. Remove the basket liner from the basket frame and cut the holes with a simple kitchen knife.
Planting the Strawberries
Strawberries are typically sold as bare root plants that should go into the ground (or container) as soon as possible. If you chose to plant strawberries in holes along the outside of the basket, insert the root end of the plants through the holes and into the empty basket. The root crown should be even with the basket. Stuff straw, coir, or peat moss around the holes to hold the plants and soil in place. Fill the basket with a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. Instead of purchasing bagged potting mix, try your own blend, such as two parts sphagnum peat moss to one part finished compost and one part perlite. Leave about 2 inches of space to the basket edge so you can plant the remaining strawberry plants in the top. Mulch applied up to the top edge helps retain some moisture in the soil.
Care Requirements
Strawberries need full sunlight -- a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Soil in hanging baskets dries out much faster than ground soil. Daily watering might be required during the hottest, driest parts of the growing season to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Regular all-purpose fertilizer application every two weeks gives plants a boost during the flowering and fruiting stages, but is only necessary once monthly before flowering begins. Mix the fertilizer to approximately half strength for container strawberries. Mix a water-soluble, all-purpose fertilizer at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon of fertilizer to 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer until the soil is evenly moist, using the fertilizer in place of the regular watering routine. Pinch off all flowers from day-neutral and alpine strawberries until July to delay the fruiting period.
Overwintering Strawberry Baskets
With proper care, strawberries grown in hanging baskets can be overwintered and produce more fruit the following year. Bring the entire basket indoors before the first frost, placing it in a protected location such as a garage or basement for the the winter. A garden shed or other unheated space works for overwintering, but spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of straw over the soil and around the crown of each plant to provide insulation. Burlap or old blankets wrapped around the container provide extra insulation to keep the soil warm. Water the plants when the soil feels dry, which is typically only necessary a few times each month. Strawberries can return outdoors in spring after all frost danger has passed. Replace the soil in the hanging baskets with fresh soil before rehanging them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
In a small home garden, space is often at a premium. You may find yourself crowding together plants or allowing them to mingle with their neighbors just to fit them all in. Sometimes it can be difficult to balance the needs and match the effects of two plants on each other. However, cucumbers and tomatoes grow quite well together.
Compatibility
Cucumbers are considered compatible with tomatoes. The two plants are companion plants, mutually beneficial to each other. Companion plants help one another in several ways, including making it more difficult for pests to adapt to the defenses of a single plant and by providing food and shelter for beneficial insects. Both tomatoes and cucumbers dislike growing near potatoes.
Needs
Tomatoes and cucumbers share many of the same basic needs. Cucumbers require 50 to 70 days to reach maturity, while tomatoes need 55 to 105 days, depending on the variety. Both are warm-season crops that require good drainage and a soil pH of 5.8 to 6.5. Because both require deep watering and a consistent supply of water to help fruit develop properly, having the two share space in the garden makes sense.
Placement
When planting your tomatoes and cucumbers together, you can opt to let the cucumber vines grow along the ground in the space between tomato plants, or train the vines onto the same supports you use for tomatoes. This mingling of plants is called diversified planting, which the Alabama Cooperative Extension System suggests as a strategy to make it harder for insect pests to find and damage specific crops. Because either crop can develop mold problems under moist conditions and crowding, allow plenty of space for air to circulate between plants.
Disease
When growing these two crops together, you must consider the potential for disease. While cucumber mosaic virus does affect both tomatoes and cucumbers, the disease is not limited to these two crops -- it affects more than 40 families of plants. Phytophthora blight is a more serious issue, as it can ravage both cucumbers and tomatoes. Rotate crops to prevent infection, leaving a period of three years between repeat uses of a space for cucurbit and solanaceous crops. When you pair tomatoes and cucumbers in the same space in the same year, that effectively gives you double use of one susceptible area before you have to rotate in another crop.
Compatibility
Cucumbers are considered compatible with tomatoes. The two plants are companion plants, mutually beneficial to each other. Companion plants help one another in several ways, including making it more difficult for pests to adapt to the defenses of a single plant and by providing food and shelter for beneficial insects. Both tomatoes and cucumbers dislike growing near potatoes.
Needs
Tomatoes and cucumbers share many of the same basic needs. Cucumbers require 50 to 70 days to reach maturity, while tomatoes need 55 to 105 days, depending on the variety. Both are warm-season crops that require good drainage and a soil pH of 5.8 to 6.5. Because both require deep watering and a consistent supply of water to help fruit develop properly, having the two share space in the garden makes sense.
Placement
When planting your tomatoes and cucumbers together, you can opt to let the cucumber vines grow along the ground in the space between tomato plants, or train the vines onto the same supports you use for tomatoes. This mingling of plants is called diversified planting, which the Alabama Cooperative Extension System suggests as a strategy to make it harder for insect pests to find and damage specific crops. Because either crop can develop mold problems under moist conditions and crowding, allow plenty of space for air to circulate between plants.
Disease
When growing these two crops together, you must consider the potential for disease. While cucumber mosaic virus does affect both tomatoes and cucumbers, the disease is not limited to these two crops -- it affects more than 40 families of plants. Phytophthora blight is a more serious issue, as it can ravage both cucumbers and tomatoes. Rotate crops to prevent infection, leaving a period of three years between repeat uses of a space for cucurbit and solanaceous crops. When you pair tomatoes and cucumbers in the same space in the same year, that effectively gives you double use of one susceptible area before you have to rotate in another crop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Firm, tightly tied hay or straw bales make a quick and easy-to-use organic raised bed for growing strawberries. Gardening in bales allows you to transform rocky, uneven or clay soil — or even a paved parking spot — into fertile growing space. Though growing in a bale is most often recommended for annuals, it's possible to grow strawberries in them for two years, especially if you live in a more northern climate. Make sure your strawberry bed is near a water source, since you'll be watering often.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
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