文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Grown as landscaping plants in mild winter climates, columnar cacti can reach impressive sizes not possible when they’re grown in containers. When cacti outgrow their allotted space or are reaching toward pathways, they need trimming. This might seem like a formidable task, since stem diameters can be large and some cacti have sizable spines along their ridges. Try to tackle pruning jobs before the stems get too large. With the proper equipment and planning, you can remove the unwanted growth.
Preparing to Prune
1. Mix a container of 10 percent bleach solution by combining 1 part household bleach with 10 parts water. Select a container tall enough that you can immerse the cutting edges of your pruning tools in it.
2. Wear protective clothing that covers your arms and legs, closed-toe shoes and gloves. Add safety goggles if your face will come anywhere near the cactus during the pruning process.
3. Study your cactus plant to determine a plan of action. Identify the outermost branches you wish to prune, and decide on the order of pruning so that you have easy access to the stems with the pruning tools. Then move to inner branches. Remove long, heavy branches that would be hard to handle in sections, taking manageable cuttings from the top down.
4. Select the proper tool for the size of stem you’re working on. A serrated knife works well for smaller diameter cuttings and angled-blade pruning saws are best for larger diameter stems. Use a long-handled saw for hard-to-reach stems.
5. Dip the blades of saws or knives in the bleach, soaking all surfaces.
Making the Cuts
1. Grasp the stem in the middle of the intended cut location with cooking tongs if the stem is small in diameter. Put a piece of rope in the middle if the stem is larger. Continue to hold the stem with the tongs or rope while you make a clean slanting cut through the stem angled at 45 degrees. Get another person to hold the stem of big branches while you make the cut.
2. Remove the cutting and lay it on a clean tarp or piece of cardboard if you are going to propagate it. Place the cuttings in a garbage can or sturdy box for transport if you aren’t keeping the cuttings.
3. Check the cut on the mother plant if you are only removing one cutting. Remove any torn or jagged areas and make sure the slanted cut is smooth and will easily shed water to prevent rot on the parent plant.
4. Continue to make cuts on the stem if it is a large branch, supporting each cut section with the tongs or rope as you go. Lay each piece of cactus on the clean surface or put it in the garbage can. Make sure you can tell the bottom from the top of each cutting if you plan to root the cuttings. Use a permanent marker and put an X at the bottom edge of each cut.
5. Discard the cuttings, give them away, or make more plants by rooting the cuttings.
Preparing to Prune
1. Mix a container of 10 percent bleach solution by combining 1 part household bleach with 10 parts water. Select a container tall enough that you can immerse the cutting edges of your pruning tools in it.
2. Wear protective clothing that covers your arms and legs, closed-toe shoes and gloves. Add safety goggles if your face will come anywhere near the cactus during the pruning process.
3. Study your cactus plant to determine a plan of action. Identify the outermost branches you wish to prune, and decide on the order of pruning so that you have easy access to the stems with the pruning tools. Then move to inner branches. Remove long, heavy branches that would be hard to handle in sections, taking manageable cuttings from the top down.
4. Select the proper tool for the size of stem you’re working on. A serrated knife works well for smaller diameter cuttings and angled-blade pruning saws are best for larger diameter stems. Use a long-handled saw for hard-to-reach stems.
5. Dip the blades of saws or knives in the bleach, soaking all surfaces.
Making the Cuts
1. Grasp the stem in the middle of the intended cut location with cooking tongs if the stem is small in diameter. Put a piece of rope in the middle if the stem is larger. Continue to hold the stem with the tongs or rope while you make a clean slanting cut through the stem angled at 45 degrees. Get another person to hold the stem of big branches while you make the cut.
2. Remove the cutting and lay it on a clean tarp or piece of cardboard if you are going to propagate it. Place the cuttings in a garbage can or sturdy box for transport if you aren’t keeping the cuttings.
3. Check the cut on the mother plant if you are only removing one cutting. Remove any torn or jagged areas and make sure the slanted cut is smooth and will easily shed water to prevent rot on the parent plant.
4. Continue to make cuts on the stem if it is a large branch, supporting each cut section with the tongs or rope as you go. Lay each piece of cactus on the clean surface or put it in the garbage can. Make sure you can tell the bottom from the top of each cutting if you plan to root the cuttings. Use a permanent marker and put an X at the bottom edge of each cut.
5. Discard the cuttings, give them away, or make more plants by rooting the cuttings.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cotyledon orbiculata, also known as Pig’s Ear Plant, sometimes grow in an expansive pattern, which can impede on other plants. While they don’t take up too much water, they can still steal sunlight and root space for your other flora in your arid garden. You may just want to divide your Pig’s Ear because you want to have more of them. Either way, with the right tools and environment, you can get clippings to grow so you can have multiple Cotyledons in your possession.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting
When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off.
Step 2 – Get it to Root
Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot.
Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon
Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care
You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting
When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off.
Step 2 – Get it to Root
Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot.
Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon
Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care
You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Plants are a quick, inexpensive, and easy way to add something pretty and alive to your space. An indoor succulent garden fits the bill for all these things. Succulents go for a couple dollars a pop at your local nursery or home improvement store, and they are built to survive in the harshest of conditions — perfect for those who tend to forget the watering chore or who don’t have a green thumb.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents may be most commonly grown in containers. However, they’re ideal for outdoor rock gardens and sculptural gardens. They can even serve as ground cover in rocky or sandy soils. If you don’t have garden space, grow succulents vertically outdoors. Living wall planters can be made from old pallets, picture frames, fence slats or shutters. Below are some of the most popular succulents for growing outdoors.
Agave: Some people refer to Agave plants as “dinosaur plants”. They look like massive versions of the Aloe plant, except the Agave leaves are grayer. This standout succulent makes a fantastic focal point in any yard. Agave grows more quickly in the ground than in containers. It does best when you ignore it. It prefers rocky or sandy soil and isn’t picky about the soil’s pH. You don’t want to fertilize an Agave plant. If it gets too much nourishment, it will bloom. Although the flowers can be massive and beautiful, the plant dies after it blooms.
Watch Chain Plant (Crassula muscosa): This plant is referred to as a “Watch Chain” or “Zipper Plant” because of the way it creates intricate braid-like patterns as it grows. The small, green leaves are crowded around a narrow stem. This succulent is easy to grow. In fact, it can take over your garden if that’s what you want. It’s perfect for people who don’t want to spend a lot of time tending to their gardens.
Dasylirion: These stunning plants resemble a lion’s mane or palm tree. Many people are surprised to find out that the Dasylirion is a succulent. Dasylirion grows well in USDA plant hardiness zone 8 to 11. It develops into a bushy sphere up to 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter. The spiny leaves grow out of a trunk that grows into a thick cylinder. You can keep the plant from looking too unkempt by stripping the lower leaves around the trunk.
Agave: Some people refer to Agave plants as “dinosaur plants”. They look like massive versions of the Aloe plant, except the Agave leaves are grayer. This standout succulent makes a fantastic focal point in any yard. Agave grows more quickly in the ground than in containers. It does best when you ignore it. It prefers rocky or sandy soil and isn’t picky about the soil’s pH. You don’t want to fertilize an Agave plant. If it gets too much nourishment, it will bloom. Although the flowers can be massive and beautiful, the plant dies after it blooms.
Watch Chain Plant (Crassula muscosa): This plant is referred to as a “Watch Chain” or “Zipper Plant” because of the way it creates intricate braid-like patterns as it grows. The small, green leaves are crowded around a narrow stem. This succulent is easy to grow. In fact, it can take over your garden if that’s what you want. It’s perfect for people who don’t want to spend a lot of time tending to their gardens.
Dasylirion: These stunning plants resemble a lion’s mane or palm tree. Many people are surprised to find out that the Dasylirion is a succulent. Dasylirion grows well in USDA plant hardiness zone 8 to 11. It develops into a bushy sphere up to 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter. The spiny leaves grow out of a trunk that grows into a thick cylinder. You can keep the plant from looking too unkempt by stripping the lower leaves around the trunk.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
If you think your yard is too small for oak trees, think again. Columnar oak trees (Quercus robur ‘Fastigiata’) offer the magnificent green lobed foliage and ridged bark that other oaks have, without taking up all that space. What are columnar oak trees? They are slow-growing, slender oaks with a tight, upright and narrow profile. Read on for more columnar oak information.
What are Columnar Oak Trees?
These unusual and attractive trees, also called upright English oak trees, were first found growing wild in a forest in Germany. These types of columnar oaks were propagated by grafting.
Columnar oak tree growth is moderately slow and the trees grow up, not out. With these trees, you don’t have to worry about the spreading lateral branches you associate with other oaks. Columnar oak trees might grow to 60 feet tall, but the spread will remain about 15 feet. The dark green leaves turn brown or yellow in autumn and remain on the tree for months before they fall in winter. The trunk of the columnar oak is covered in dark brown bark, deeply ridged and very attractive. The tree has small acorns hanging on the branches most of the winter that attract squirrels.
Columnar Oak Information
These ‘fastigata’ types of columnar oaks are easy-care trees with outstanding ornamental qualities. Because the columnar oak tree growth direction is up, not out, they are useful in areas where you don’t have room for wide trees; the crown of the columnar oak remains tight and no branches break out of the crown and wander out from the trunk. Ideal columnar oak tree growth conditions include a sunny location. Plant these oaks in direct sun on well-drained acidic or slightly alkaline soil. They are extremely adaptable and very tolerant of urban conditions. They also tolerate drought and aerosol salt.
Caring for Columnar Oak Trees
You will find that caring for columnar oak trees is not difficult. The trees tolerate drought, but do best with occasional irrigation. These are good trees for cooler climates. They thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 or 5 through 8.
What are Columnar Oak Trees?
These unusual and attractive trees, also called upright English oak trees, were first found growing wild in a forest in Germany. These types of columnar oaks were propagated by grafting.
Columnar oak tree growth is moderately slow and the trees grow up, not out. With these trees, you don’t have to worry about the spreading lateral branches you associate with other oaks. Columnar oak trees might grow to 60 feet tall, but the spread will remain about 15 feet. The dark green leaves turn brown or yellow in autumn and remain on the tree for months before they fall in winter. The trunk of the columnar oak is covered in dark brown bark, deeply ridged and very attractive. The tree has small acorns hanging on the branches most of the winter that attract squirrels.
Columnar Oak Information
These ‘fastigata’ types of columnar oaks are easy-care trees with outstanding ornamental qualities. Because the columnar oak tree growth direction is up, not out, they are useful in areas where you don’t have room for wide trees; the crown of the columnar oak remains tight and no branches break out of the crown and wander out from the trunk. Ideal columnar oak tree growth conditions include a sunny location. Plant these oaks in direct sun on well-drained acidic or slightly alkaline soil. They are extremely adaptable and very tolerant of urban conditions. They also tolerate drought and aerosol salt.
Caring for Columnar Oak Trees
You will find that caring for columnar oak trees is not difficult. The trees tolerate drought, but do best with occasional irrigation. These are good trees for cooler climates. They thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 or 5 through 8.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Dogwoods are beautiful trees with striking spring flowers. They are impressive trees to have around, but not every gardener has the space or the means to take care of a large tree. Other gardeners may not live in a zone warm enough to overwinter a dogwood outside. With some skill and attention, though, you can keep a dogwood tree in a container. Keep reading to learn more about caring for potted dogwood trees.
Can I Grow Dogwood In a Container?
Can I grow dogwood in a container? Technically, yes. It’s possible, but there are certain requirements to be met, and it’s not for the casual gardener. Dogwood trees have very dense, fast growing root systems that are less than ideal for container growing. They also need extremely well-draining soil, but at the same time the plants need lots of water, particularly in the first few years of life. Containers dry out quickly, so you’ll probably have to mulch heavily and water it every day or so.
How to Grow Dogwoods in a Container
When growing dogwood trees in pots, it’s important to give the roots plenty of room. This means you should opt for as big of a container as you can manage. Even so, you’ll want to remove the tree from its container to prune the roots back on occasion to keep it from becoming root bound. Again, container grown dogwoods will require plenty of moisture so you’ll have to water the tree frequently. You can also add a bit of mulch to the top of the soil, which should help it retain some of that moisture.
Caring for potted dogwood trees in the winter is also tricky. The plants need cold temperatures in order to go dormant during the winter. If you want to bring it inside, it’s best to put it somewhere protected but unheated, like a shed or a garage.
Can I Grow Dogwood In a Container?
Can I grow dogwood in a container? Technically, yes. It’s possible, but there are certain requirements to be met, and it’s not for the casual gardener. Dogwood trees have very dense, fast growing root systems that are less than ideal for container growing. They also need extremely well-draining soil, but at the same time the plants need lots of water, particularly in the first few years of life. Containers dry out quickly, so you’ll probably have to mulch heavily and water it every day or so.
How to Grow Dogwoods in a Container
When growing dogwood trees in pots, it’s important to give the roots plenty of room. This means you should opt for as big of a container as you can manage. Even so, you’ll want to remove the tree from its container to prune the roots back on occasion to keep it from becoming root bound. Again, container grown dogwoods will require plenty of moisture so you’ll have to water the tree frequently. You can also add a bit of mulch to the top of the soil, which should help it retain some of that moisture.
Caring for potted dogwood trees in the winter is also tricky. The plants need cold temperatures in order to go dormant during the winter. If you want to bring it inside, it’s best to put it somewhere protected but unheated, like a shed or a garage.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Bismarck palm is a slow-growing, but ultimately massive palm tree, not for small yards. This is a landscaping tree for monumental scale, but in the right setting it can be a beautiful and regal tree to anchor a space and accent a building. Watering a new Bismarck palm is crucial for ensuring it grows and thrives.
About the Bismarck Palm
The Bismarck palm, Bismarckia nobilis, is a large sub-tropical palm tree. It is a solitary palm that is native to the island of Madagascar, but which does well in zones 9 through 11 in the U.S. thriving in areas like Florida and southern Texas. It grows slowly, but can go up to 50 feet (15 m.) high with a crown that can reach up to 20 feet (6 m.) across.
How to Water Newly Planted Bismarck Palms
A Bismarck palm is a big investment, both in time and money. The tree only grows one to two feet (30 to 60 cm.) per year, but over time it grows quite large. To ensure that it will be there for years to come, you need to know when to water Bismarck palms, and how. Not watering a new Bismarck palm could have disastrous consequences. Bismarck palm watering can be tricky. To get it right, you need to water your new palm so that its roots stay moist for the first four to six months, without letting it get waterlogged. Good drainage is crucial, so before you plant the tree, make sure the soil will drain well. A good basic guideline is to water the palm every day for the first month and then two to three times per week for the next several months. Continue watering once a week for about the first two years, until your palm is well established.
A good rule of thumb for the amount of water you should use at each watering is to go by the container the Bismarck palm came in. For example, if it arrived in a 25-gallon (95-liter) container, give your new tree 25 gallons of water each time, a little more in hotter weather or less in cooler weather. New Bismarck palm watering is a real commitment, but this is a grand tree that needs care to thrive, so don’t neglect it.
About the Bismarck Palm
The Bismarck palm, Bismarckia nobilis, is a large sub-tropical palm tree. It is a solitary palm that is native to the island of Madagascar, but which does well in zones 9 through 11 in the U.S. thriving in areas like Florida and southern Texas. It grows slowly, but can go up to 50 feet (15 m.) high with a crown that can reach up to 20 feet (6 m.) across.
How to Water Newly Planted Bismarck Palms
A Bismarck palm is a big investment, both in time and money. The tree only grows one to two feet (30 to 60 cm.) per year, but over time it grows quite large. To ensure that it will be there for years to come, you need to know when to water Bismarck palms, and how. Not watering a new Bismarck palm could have disastrous consequences. Bismarck palm watering can be tricky. To get it right, you need to water your new palm so that its roots stay moist for the first four to six months, without letting it get waterlogged. Good drainage is crucial, so before you plant the tree, make sure the soil will drain well. A good basic guideline is to water the palm every day for the first month and then two to three times per week for the next several months. Continue watering once a week for about the first two years, until your palm is well established.
A good rule of thumb for the amount of water you should use at each watering is to go by the container the Bismarck palm came in. For example, if it arrived in a 25-gallon (95-liter) container, give your new tree 25 gallons of water each time, a little more in hotter weather or less in cooler weather. New Bismarck palm watering is a real commitment, but this is a grand tree that needs care to thrive, so don’t neglect it.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
A banyan tree makes a great statement, provided that you have enough space in your yard and the appropriate climate. Otherwise, this interesting tree should be grown indoors. Read on to learn more.
Banyan Tree Info
The Banyan (Ficus benghalensis) is a fig tree that begins life as an epiphyte, germinating in the crevices of a host tree or other structure. As it grows, the banyan tree produces aerial roots that hang down and take root wherever they touch the ground. These thick roots actually make the tree appear to have several trunks.
Growing a Banyan Tree Outdoors
On average, these trees have high moisture needs; however, established trees are drought tolerant. They enjoy sun to partial shade as well. Banyan trees are easily damaged by frost and are, therefore, best grown in warmer climates such as those found in USDA plant hardiness zones 10-12. Growing a banyan tree requires a lot of space, as mature trees become quite large. This tree should not be planted near foundations, driveways, streets or even your home, as its canopy alone can spread quite far. In fact, a banyan tree can get up to about 100 feet tall and spread over several acres. The leaves of banyan trees can reach anywhere from 5-10 inches in size. One of the largest banyan trees on record is in Calcutta, India. Its canopy covers 420 meters and stands over 80 feet tall, with more than 2,000 roots.
Banyan Tree Houseplant
Banyan trees are commonly grown as houseplants and are well adapted to indoor environments. Although the banyan tree is better somewhat pot bound, it’s a good idea to repot this plant at least every two to three years. The shoot tips can be pinched back to promote branching and help control size. As a houseplant, banyan trees prefer well-drained but moderately moist soil. The soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings, at which time it needs to be thoroughly saturated. However, caution should be taken to ensure that it doesn’t sit in water; otherwise, leaves may yellow and drop. Provide the banyan tree with moderately bright light and maintain indoor temperatures around 70 F. (21 C.) during summer and at least 55-65 F. (10-18 C.) throughout winter.
Propagating Banyan Trees
Banyan trees can be propagated from softwood cuttings or seeds. Cuttings can be taken from the tips and rooted or by eye cuttings, which require a piece of stem about a half inch below and above a leaf. Insert cuttings into a suitable rooting medium, and within a couple of weeks, roots (or shoots) should begin to develop. As parts of the banyan tree plant are poisonous (if ingested), caution should be used while handling it, as sensitive individuals may be susceptible to skin irritations or allergic reactions.
If choosing to grow banyan from seed, allow seedheads to dry on the plant before collecting. Keep in mind, however, that a growing banyan tree from seed can take some time.
Banyan Tree Info
The Banyan (Ficus benghalensis) is a fig tree that begins life as an epiphyte, germinating in the crevices of a host tree or other structure. As it grows, the banyan tree produces aerial roots that hang down and take root wherever they touch the ground. These thick roots actually make the tree appear to have several trunks.
Growing a Banyan Tree Outdoors
On average, these trees have high moisture needs; however, established trees are drought tolerant. They enjoy sun to partial shade as well. Banyan trees are easily damaged by frost and are, therefore, best grown in warmer climates such as those found in USDA plant hardiness zones 10-12. Growing a banyan tree requires a lot of space, as mature trees become quite large. This tree should not be planted near foundations, driveways, streets or even your home, as its canopy alone can spread quite far. In fact, a banyan tree can get up to about 100 feet tall and spread over several acres. The leaves of banyan trees can reach anywhere from 5-10 inches in size. One of the largest banyan trees on record is in Calcutta, India. Its canopy covers 420 meters and stands over 80 feet tall, with more than 2,000 roots.
Banyan Tree Houseplant
Banyan trees are commonly grown as houseplants and are well adapted to indoor environments. Although the banyan tree is better somewhat pot bound, it’s a good idea to repot this plant at least every two to three years. The shoot tips can be pinched back to promote branching and help control size. As a houseplant, banyan trees prefer well-drained but moderately moist soil. The soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings, at which time it needs to be thoroughly saturated. However, caution should be taken to ensure that it doesn’t sit in water; otherwise, leaves may yellow and drop. Provide the banyan tree with moderately bright light and maintain indoor temperatures around 70 F. (21 C.) during summer and at least 55-65 F. (10-18 C.) throughout winter.
Propagating Banyan Trees
Banyan trees can be propagated from softwood cuttings or seeds. Cuttings can be taken from the tips and rooted or by eye cuttings, which require a piece of stem about a half inch below and above a leaf. Insert cuttings into a suitable rooting medium, and within a couple of weeks, roots (or shoots) should begin to develop. As parts of the banyan tree plant are poisonous (if ingested), caution should be used while handling it, as sensitive individuals may be susceptible to skin irritations or allergic reactions.
If choosing to grow banyan from seed, allow seedheads to dry on the plant before collecting. Keep in mind, however, that a growing banyan tree from seed can take some time.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas are popular with many gardeners because they are easy to grow and maintain. They are perennials, coming back year after year, and they tolerate shade. Hostas tend to grow large, but if your space is limited, growing the adorably mouse-ear hosta may be for you. If you want to know how to grow mouse-ear hosta, here’s what you need to know.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?
Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care
The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?
Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care
The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Having your own herb garden is a thing of beauty. There’s nothing better than fresh herbs to enliven even the most bland dish, but not everyone has garden space for an herb garden. Luckily, most herbs do very well grown together in containers. Mixing herbs in a pot isn’t as easy as it sounds, however. There are some general rules of thumb when growing herb plants together. Read on to find out what herbs will grow in one pot and other helpful information about growing herb plants together.
Herbs to Grow Together in a Pot
Consider height when selecting herbs to grow together in a pot. Tall herbs, like fennel, will look rather ridiculous for the scale of a smaller pot, and they may even become too top heavy, causing the container to fall over. If possible, mix in some trailing herbs to cascade over the container edges.
Be sure to choose plants with common irrigation needs when mixing herbs in a pot. While pretty much all herbs love sun, some have more water requirements than others. For instance, rosemary, thymeand sagelike it fairly dry, but tender basiland parsleyneed more consistent moisture. Also, if you know that you are forgetful and likely to miss a watering here and there, you might want to select only those herbs that are drought tolerant. Plant mintby itself. All mint has a tendency to rampantly grow over and into other plants’ space. Be careful about which mint varieties are grown together. For example, if you plant a lemon mint with spearmint, they might cross pollinate. While this might turn out to be an interesting experiment, the results might be less than palatable.
What Herbs will Grow in One Pot?
Quite a few culinary herbs hail from the Mediterranean and, thus, share a love of the sun and the need for fairly arid soil. Examples of Mediterranean herbs that will grow well together in containers are:
Sage
Thyme
Rosemary
Marjoram
Oregano
Lavender
Some of these herbs can get rather woody and large after a time and might do better if transplanted into the garden when they get too large. Creeping thyme looks lovely grown with prostrate rosemary and a variegated sage, a slower growing cultivar of sage.
Moisture loving herbs such as tarragon, cilantro, and basilshould be grouped together. Parsleyshould be included as well but be aware that parsley is a biennial and will die back after 2 years. For a truly aromatic pairing, try growing lemon verbena and lemon thyme together. The lemon thyme will spread around the roots of the verbena to help retain moisture, plus the combination of the two will smell divine.
Herbs to Grow Together in a Pot
Consider height when selecting herbs to grow together in a pot. Tall herbs, like fennel, will look rather ridiculous for the scale of a smaller pot, and they may even become too top heavy, causing the container to fall over. If possible, mix in some trailing herbs to cascade over the container edges.
Be sure to choose plants with common irrigation needs when mixing herbs in a pot. While pretty much all herbs love sun, some have more water requirements than others. For instance, rosemary, thymeand sagelike it fairly dry, but tender basiland parsleyneed more consistent moisture. Also, if you know that you are forgetful and likely to miss a watering here and there, you might want to select only those herbs that are drought tolerant. Plant mintby itself. All mint has a tendency to rampantly grow over and into other plants’ space. Be careful about which mint varieties are grown together. For example, if you plant a lemon mint with spearmint, they might cross pollinate. While this might turn out to be an interesting experiment, the results might be less than palatable.
What Herbs will Grow in One Pot?
Quite a few culinary herbs hail from the Mediterranean and, thus, share a love of the sun and the need for fairly arid soil. Examples of Mediterranean herbs that will grow well together in containers are:
Sage
Thyme
Rosemary
Marjoram
Oregano
Lavender
Some of these herbs can get rather woody and large after a time and might do better if transplanted into the garden when they get too large. Creeping thyme looks lovely grown with prostrate rosemary and a variegated sage, a slower growing cultivar of sage.
Moisture loving herbs such as tarragon, cilantro, and basilshould be grouped together. Parsleyshould be included as well but be aware that parsley is a biennial and will die back after 2 years. For a truly aromatic pairing, try growing lemon verbena and lemon thyme together. The lemon thyme will spread around the roots of the verbena to help retain moisture, plus the combination of the two will smell divine.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley is a very popular herb among gardeners. A classic garnish on so many dishes, it’s especially useful to have on hand, and since cutting stalks only encourages new growth, there’s no reason not to give parsley some space in your garden. It’s a well-known rule that some plants grow better next to others, however, and with parsley there’s no exception. Keep reading to learn more about plants that grow well with parsley, as well as those that don’t.
Parsley Companion Planting
Companion planting is the age old trick of knowing which plants grow better next to other plants. Some plants encourage certain others to grow, while others inhibit them. Plants that are mutually beneficial are called companions. Parsley is a great companion crop, encouraging the growth of plenty of plants around it. Of all the vegetables, asparagus benefits the most from having parsley nearby. Other plants that grow well with parsley include:
Tomatoes
Chives
Carrots
Corn
Peppers
Onions
Peas
All of these are mutually beneficial with parsley and should grow well nearby. Lettuce and mint don’t make good neighbors with parsley and should be kept far away from it. Maybe the most surprising parsley companion is the rose bush. Planting parsley around the base of the plant will actually make your flowers smell sweeter.
Specific pairings aside, parsley is good for all the plants in your garden because of the insects it attracts. Swallowtail butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves, encouraging a new generation of butterflies to grow up in your garden. Parsley flowers attract hoverflies, the larvae of which eat aphids, thrips, and other harmful insects. Some harmful beetles are also repelled by the presence of parsley. Companion planting with parsley is that easy. Get started today and enjoy the benefits of growing other plants with this wonderful herb.
Parsley Companion Planting
Companion planting is the age old trick of knowing which plants grow better next to other plants. Some plants encourage certain others to grow, while others inhibit them. Plants that are mutually beneficial are called companions. Parsley is a great companion crop, encouraging the growth of plenty of plants around it. Of all the vegetables, asparagus benefits the most from having parsley nearby. Other plants that grow well with parsley include:
Tomatoes
Chives
Carrots
Corn
Peppers
Onions
Peas
All of these are mutually beneficial with parsley and should grow well nearby. Lettuce and mint don’t make good neighbors with parsley and should be kept far away from it. Maybe the most surprising parsley companion is the rose bush. Planting parsley around the base of the plant will actually make your flowers smell sweeter.
Specific pairings aside, parsley is good for all the plants in your garden because of the insects it attracts. Swallowtail butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves, encouraging a new generation of butterflies to grow up in your garden. Parsley flowers attract hoverflies, the larvae of which eat aphids, thrips, and other harmful insects. Some harmful beetles are also repelled by the presence of parsley. Companion planting with parsley is that easy. Get started today and enjoy the benefits of growing other plants with this wonderful herb.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Companion planting is a centuries-old technique that by locating various plants in close proximity, creates conditions that enhance growing conditions by repelling pests, attracting pollinators, and making the best use of available space. When it comes to companion plants for dill, most of the following suggestions have not been tested in scientific labs, but are highly recommended by experienced gardeners – often by trial and error.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Given the right conditions, rosemary plants thrive, eventually reaching heights of 6 to 8 feet. They grow out as well as up, sending out stems that seem determined to explore their surroundings and invade the space of adjacent plants. If your rosemary plant has grown out of control, it’s time to take drastic action. Rejuvenation pruning of rosemary may be needed.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Companion planting is based on the idea that some plants perform better if they are located near a strategic plant partner. This partner may attract beneficial insects, improve soil quality, or even share root space in a mutually beneficial manner. Read on to learn about borage and companion planting.
Plants That Grow Well with Borage
Using borage (Borago officinalis) as a companion plant is good choice. Plants that grow well with borage include:
Tomatoes
Cabbage
Squash
Strawberries
The borage companion plant is said to repel tomato worms and cabbage worms because borage attracts beneficial insects, such as bees and tiny wasps. As we know these are great plant pollinators, but they also repel garden pests. Additionally, borage works well in the garden alongside many types of herbs and flowers. So bring on the borage as a companion plant!
Companion Planting with Borage
Companion planting with borage is a rich subject. Borage has a reputation for improving the flavor and growth of strawberries. This may be due to the fact that it adds trace minerals to the soil. Borage leaves are known to contain potassium, calcium and Vitamin C. Because borage leaves are rich in minerals and vitamins, the leaves make nice mulch for almost any vegetable. Use the older, larger, fading leaves for this purpose. Borage plant material is also a rich contributor of nutrients and bulk for your compost bin. Buy borage seeds to start your companion planting endeavor. The seeds germinate quite easily. You can also buy borage seedlings at your local nurseries or sometimes at farmers’ markets. Please note that borage reseeds itself vigorously. If borage pops up in places you don’t want, they are very easy to weed out of your planting beds.
Borage leaves are coarse, thick and hairy. The flowers are the star of the show with this plant. Tiny little lavender or blue colored star-shaped flowers bloom on and on throughout the growing season. In mild climates, borage sometimes blossoms throughout the winter. The borage companion plant takes sun or part shade and prefers moist soil. Borage flowers and immature borage leaves are edible. The flowers are a tiny bit spicy and very pretty in salads, iced lemonade, or stir-fry (add at the very end). Note of caution: Pregnant and nursing women should not eat borage. It isn’t good for their health or the health of their babies.
Plants That Grow Well with Borage
Using borage (Borago officinalis) as a companion plant is good choice. Plants that grow well with borage include:
Tomatoes
Cabbage
Squash
Strawberries
The borage companion plant is said to repel tomato worms and cabbage worms because borage attracts beneficial insects, such as bees and tiny wasps. As we know these are great plant pollinators, but they also repel garden pests. Additionally, borage works well in the garden alongside many types of herbs and flowers. So bring on the borage as a companion plant!
Companion Planting with Borage
Companion planting with borage is a rich subject. Borage has a reputation for improving the flavor and growth of strawberries. This may be due to the fact that it adds trace minerals to the soil. Borage leaves are known to contain potassium, calcium and Vitamin C. Because borage leaves are rich in minerals and vitamins, the leaves make nice mulch for almost any vegetable. Use the older, larger, fading leaves for this purpose. Borage plant material is also a rich contributor of nutrients and bulk for your compost bin. Buy borage seeds to start your companion planting endeavor. The seeds germinate quite easily. You can also buy borage seedlings at your local nurseries or sometimes at farmers’ markets. Please note that borage reseeds itself vigorously. If borage pops up in places you don’t want, they are very easy to weed out of your planting beds.
Borage leaves are coarse, thick and hairy. The flowers are the star of the show with this plant. Tiny little lavender or blue colored star-shaped flowers bloom on and on throughout the growing season. In mild climates, borage sometimes blossoms throughout the winter. The borage companion plant takes sun or part shade and prefers moist soil. Borage flowers and immature borage leaves are edible. The flowers are a tiny bit spicy and very pretty in salads, iced lemonade, or stir-fry (add at the very end). Note of caution: Pregnant and nursing women should not eat borage. It isn’t good for their health or the health of their babies.
0
0
