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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The schefflera, or umbrella tree, can make a large and attractive accent in a living room, office, or other generous space. Propagating cuttings from schefflera plants is a simple and inexpensive way to create a collection of impressive plants for gifts or home décor. Like with many other bushy plants, schefflera plant cuttings will create a perfect clone of the parent plant, with no chance of mutations as you would encounter with planting seeds. Propagate your schefflera with cuttings and you’ll have a collection of plants healthy and growing within a month or so.
How Can I Root Schefflera Cuttings?
How can I root schefflera cuttings? Rooting a schefflera cutting is pretty easy. Clean a sharp knife with an alcohol pad to prevent any possible spread of bacteria to your plants. Clip off a stem near the base of the plant and wrap the cut end in a damp paper towel. Cut each leaf in half horizontally to reduce the amount of moisture it loses during the rooting process.
Fill a 6-inch pot with fresh potting soil. Poke a 2-inch hole in the soil with a pencil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone powder, place it in the hole and gently pat the soil around the stem to secure it in place. Water the soil and place the pot in a place that gets steady light but not direct sunlight. The stem will begin to grow roots within a few weeks. When the plant begins to grow new green shoots on top, nip off the top of the shoots to encourage branching.
Additional Schefflera Plant Propagation
Rooting a schefflera cutting is not the only way to go about schefflera plant propagation. Some growers have better luck with layering when they want to produce one or two new plants. Layering creates new roots along the stem while it is still on the parent plant. Remove the bark in a ring around a flexible stem, near the end and below the leaves. Bend the stem down to force it into the soil in another nearby planter. Bury the cut part, but leave the leafy end above the soil. Hold the stem in place with a bent wire. Keep the soil moist and roots will form around the spot where you damaged the bark. Once new growth occurs, clip it from the original tree. If your stems aren’t long enough to bend into another pot, damage the bark in the same manner, then wrap the area in a clump of damp sphagnum moss. Cover the baseball-sized lump with plastic wrap, then secure it with tape. Roots will grow inside the moss. When you see them through the plastic, clip off the new plant below the plastic, remove the covering and plant it in a new pot.
How Can I Root Schefflera Cuttings?
How can I root schefflera cuttings? Rooting a schefflera cutting is pretty easy. Clean a sharp knife with an alcohol pad to prevent any possible spread of bacteria to your plants. Clip off a stem near the base of the plant and wrap the cut end in a damp paper towel. Cut each leaf in half horizontally to reduce the amount of moisture it loses during the rooting process.
Fill a 6-inch pot with fresh potting soil. Poke a 2-inch hole in the soil with a pencil. Dip the cut end of the cutting into rooting hormone powder, place it in the hole and gently pat the soil around the stem to secure it in place. Water the soil and place the pot in a place that gets steady light but not direct sunlight. The stem will begin to grow roots within a few weeks. When the plant begins to grow new green shoots on top, nip off the top of the shoots to encourage branching.
Additional Schefflera Plant Propagation
Rooting a schefflera cutting is not the only way to go about schefflera plant propagation. Some growers have better luck with layering when they want to produce one or two new plants. Layering creates new roots along the stem while it is still on the parent plant. Remove the bark in a ring around a flexible stem, near the end and below the leaves. Bend the stem down to force it into the soil in another nearby planter. Bury the cut part, but leave the leafy end above the soil. Hold the stem in place with a bent wire. Keep the soil moist and roots will form around the spot where you damaged the bark. Once new growth occurs, clip it from the original tree. If your stems aren’t long enough to bend into another pot, damage the bark in the same manner, then wrap the area in a clump of damp sphagnum moss. Cover the baseball-sized lump with plastic wrap, then secure it with tape. Roots will grow inside the moss. When you see them through the plastic, clip off the new plant below the plastic, remove the covering and plant it in a new pot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Adding a pitcher plant or three to your garden or interior space adds a touch of the unusual. Beyond being interesting carnivorous specimens, the pitcher plant produces a beautiful bloom as a reward to a gardener who has cared for it well. When your pitcher plant turns yellow or brown, it’s not time to panic; these hardy plants are hard to keep down for long.
Is My Pitcher Plant Dying?
More than likely, your pitcher plant is just getting older; browning or yellowing pitcher plants are perfectly normal even when plants have received excellent care. As individual pitchers age, they may start to yellow, then brown and collapse. If it’s only the oldest or largest pitchers doing this, it’s nothing to worry about; your plant is just shedding its oldest pitchers. As fall approaches, a normal plant will begin to go dormant and stop replacing the shed pitchers. If you’re unsure about pitcher plant care and the pitcher plant turning brown or yellow is discolored all over, you may have bigger problems. Although pitcher plants are bog natives, they don’t tolerate standing water like their carnivorous contemporaries, immediately reduce watering to dry out the soil around the plant’s crown. If you’re watering with tap water, this could be causing problems as well. Many fanciers believe the heavy minerals in tap water can cause injury, so stick to purified or filtered water.
Other Causes of Environmental Stress
Pitcher plants that are changing color may be trying to tell you that something is wrong in their environment. This requires a total evaluation of the system where they live; these plants are not the same as your philodendrons or gerbera daisies and they have very unique needs. Your growing medium should be loose but absorbent, like the bogs from which these plants hail. A slightly acidic pH is also beneficial. Try moving your plant into a sunny area; pitcher plants need full sun to do their best. However, if you place them in a window with bright, direct sunlight, they may burn, so choose your location carefully.
Humidity should be high, around 60 percent when possible. Moving your plant to a terrarium might improve its color. Remember that carnivorous plants thrive in poor soils and get most of their nutrition from consuming insects; fertilizer can be very damaging to these plants.
Is My Pitcher Plant Dying?
More than likely, your pitcher plant is just getting older; browning or yellowing pitcher plants are perfectly normal even when plants have received excellent care. As individual pitchers age, they may start to yellow, then brown and collapse. If it’s only the oldest or largest pitchers doing this, it’s nothing to worry about; your plant is just shedding its oldest pitchers. As fall approaches, a normal plant will begin to go dormant and stop replacing the shed pitchers. If you’re unsure about pitcher plant care and the pitcher plant turning brown or yellow is discolored all over, you may have bigger problems. Although pitcher plants are bog natives, they don’t tolerate standing water like their carnivorous contemporaries, immediately reduce watering to dry out the soil around the plant’s crown. If you’re watering with tap water, this could be causing problems as well. Many fanciers believe the heavy minerals in tap water can cause injury, so stick to purified or filtered water.
Other Causes of Environmental Stress
Pitcher plants that are changing color may be trying to tell you that something is wrong in their environment. This requires a total evaluation of the system where they live; these plants are not the same as your philodendrons or gerbera daisies and they have very unique needs. Your growing medium should be loose but absorbent, like the bogs from which these plants hail. A slightly acidic pH is also beneficial. Try moving your plant into a sunny area; pitcher plants need full sun to do their best. However, if you place them in a window with bright, direct sunlight, they may burn, so choose your location carefully.
Humidity should be high, around 60 percent when possible. Moving your plant to a terrarium might improve its color. Remember that carnivorous plants thrive in poor soils and get most of their nutrition from consuming insects; fertilizer can be very damaging to these plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
The Peperomia houseplant is an attractive addition to a desk, a table or as a member of your houseplant collection. Peperomia care is not difficult and Peperomia plants have a compact form that lets them occupy a small space wherever you choose to place them.
Types of Peperomias
More than 1,000 types of Peperomias exist, but not all are cultivated and grown for distribution to the public. Plant collectors may have an unusual variety, as may arboretums or indoor displays at botanical gardens. Several types of Peperomia houseplants can brighten your indoor displays. Following are some of the most widely available types of Peperomias: Heart shaped leaves and foliage texture similar to a waffle make growing a Peperomia like Peperomia caperata a pleasure. The attractive leaves and stems may have a silvery or burgundy tint peeking through the green. The watermelon Peperomia, P. argyreia, has silver stripes with elliptical shaped leaves. Both this and the previous Peperomia plant reach only 8 inches in height and width if planted in a container large enough to allow for root development. Plants have a mounding habit with draping leaves. Peperomia obtusifolia, the baby rubber plant, has a more upright demeanor. Some of these types of Peperomias have solid green, shiny leaves, while others are variegated with gold and white coloration. P. obtusifolia `Minima’ is a dwarf specimen, reaching about half the size of the standard.
Peperomia Care
When growing a Peperomia, locate the plant in a medium to low light situation away from direct sun. You may also grow Peperomia plants under fluorescent lighting. Grow Peperomia plants in a light houseplant mixture with perlite or coarse gravel included to allow roots to receive air circulation necessary for the health and development of your plant. If your peperomia plants are wilting, in spite of regular watering, the plant is likely not getting enough oxygen to the roots.
Water Peperomia houseplants sparingly and allow the soil to dry as deep as 5 inches between waterings. Fertilize occasionally with a balanced houseplant food after watering. Leach the plant in summer by flushing with water to remove the salts left behind by fertilization. Repot Peperomias in spring, but keep pots small unless you are growing Peperomia as part of a container combination.
Types of Peperomias
More than 1,000 types of Peperomias exist, but not all are cultivated and grown for distribution to the public. Plant collectors may have an unusual variety, as may arboretums or indoor displays at botanical gardens. Several types of Peperomia houseplants can brighten your indoor displays. Following are some of the most widely available types of Peperomias: Heart shaped leaves and foliage texture similar to a waffle make growing a Peperomia like Peperomia caperata a pleasure. The attractive leaves and stems may have a silvery or burgundy tint peeking through the green. The watermelon Peperomia, P. argyreia, has silver stripes with elliptical shaped leaves. Both this and the previous Peperomia plant reach only 8 inches in height and width if planted in a container large enough to allow for root development. Plants have a mounding habit with draping leaves. Peperomia obtusifolia, the baby rubber plant, has a more upright demeanor. Some of these types of Peperomias have solid green, shiny leaves, while others are variegated with gold and white coloration. P. obtusifolia `Minima’ is a dwarf specimen, reaching about half the size of the standard.
Peperomia Care
When growing a Peperomia, locate the plant in a medium to low light situation away from direct sun. You may also grow Peperomia plants under fluorescent lighting. Grow Peperomia plants in a light houseplant mixture with perlite or coarse gravel included to allow roots to receive air circulation necessary for the health and development of your plant. If your peperomia plants are wilting, in spite of regular watering, the plant is likely not getting enough oxygen to the roots.
Water Peperomia houseplants sparingly and allow the soil to dry as deep as 5 inches between waterings. Fertilize occasionally with a balanced houseplant food after watering. Leach the plant in summer by flushing with water to remove the salts left behind by fertilization. Repot Peperomias in spring, but keep pots small unless you are growing Peperomia as part of a container combination.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lily (Spathipnyllum) is happy when its roots are a little on the crowded side, but your plant will give you clear signals when it needs a little more space. Keep reading and we’ll give you the scoop on peace lily repotting.
Does My Peace Lily Need a New Pot?
Knowing when to repot a peace lily is important. If your plant is rootbound, it’s definitely time for repotting. For example, you may notice roots growing through the drainage hole or emerging on the surface of the soil. The easiest way to tell if your peace lily is rootbound is to slide the plant carefully from the pot so you can see the roots.
A severely rootbound plant is unable to absorb water because the roots are so tightly packed. The plant will wilt because even though you may water generously, liquid simply runs through the drainage hole. If your peace lily is severely rootbound, it’s best to repot as soon as possible. If your plant can wait a little longer, spring is the ideal time for repotting a peace lily.
Steps for Repotting Peace Lily Houseplants
Select a slightly larger pot with a diameter only 1 or 2 inches more than the current container. Avoid planting in a larger container, as the moisture retained in the excess potting soil may cause the roots to rot. Cover the drainage hole with a coffee filter or a small piece of mesh to keep potting mix from washing through the hole. Water the peace lily an hour or two before repotting. Place fresh potting mix in the container. Use just enough so that once repotted, the top of the plant’s root ball will be about ½ to 1 inch below the rim of the container. The goal is for the plant to sit at the same level it was situated in the old pot; burying the plant too deeply may cause the plant to rot. Slide the peace lily carefully from its current pot. Tease the rootball gently with your fingers to release the compacted roots. Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers. Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot.
Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers. Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot. Place the plant in a shady area for a couple of days. Don’t worry if the plant looks a little bedraggled for the first few days. Slight wilting often occurs when repotting peace lily houseplants. Withhold fertilizer for a couple of months after repotting a peace lily to give the plant time to settle into its new home. Note: Peace lily repotting is a perfect time to divide a mature plant into new, smaller plants. Once you’ve removed the plant from its old pot, remove offshoots carefully and plant each one into a small pot filled with fresh potting mix.
Does My Peace Lily Need a New Pot?
Knowing when to repot a peace lily is important. If your plant is rootbound, it’s definitely time for repotting. For example, you may notice roots growing through the drainage hole or emerging on the surface of the soil. The easiest way to tell if your peace lily is rootbound is to slide the plant carefully from the pot so you can see the roots.
A severely rootbound plant is unable to absorb water because the roots are so tightly packed. The plant will wilt because even though you may water generously, liquid simply runs through the drainage hole. If your peace lily is severely rootbound, it’s best to repot as soon as possible. If your plant can wait a little longer, spring is the ideal time for repotting a peace lily.
Steps for Repotting Peace Lily Houseplants
Select a slightly larger pot with a diameter only 1 or 2 inches more than the current container. Avoid planting in a larger container, as the moisture retained in the excess potting soil may cause the roots to rot. Cover the drainage hole with a coffee filter or a small piece of mesh to keep potting mix from washing through the hole. Water the peace lily an hour or two before repotting. Place fresh potting mix in the container. Use just enough so that once repotted, the top of the plant’s root ball will be about ½ to 1 inch below the rim of the container. The goal is for the plant to sit at the same level it was situated in the old pot; burying the plant too deeply may cause the plant to rot. Slide the peace lily carefully from its current pot. Tease the rootball gently with your fingers to release the compacted roots. Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers. Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot.
Place the peace lily in the new container. Fill in around the root ball with potting mix, then firm the mix gently with your fingers. Water lightly to settle the soil, and then add a little more potting soil, if needed. Again, it’s important to situate the plant at the same level it was planted in its old pot. Place the plant in a shady area for a couple of days. Don’t worry if the plant looks a little bedraggled for the first few days. Slight wilting often occurs when repotting peace lily houseplants. Withhold fertilizer for a couple of months after repotting a peace lily to give the plant time to settle into its new home. Note: Peace lily repotting is a perfect time to divide a mature plant into new, smaller plants. Once you’ve removed the plant from its old pot, remove offshoots carefully and plant each one into a small pot filled with fresh potting mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Because Christmas cactus plants are so easy to care for, it is not uncommon for a Christmas cactus to eventually grow to a monstrous size. While this is lovely to see, it can create problems for a homeowner with limited space. At this time, an owner may wonder if pruning a Christmas cactus is possible and exactly how to trim a Christmas cactus. Christmas cactus pruning is not just for large plants, either. Pruning a Christmas cactus, large or small, will help it to grow fuller and more bushier, which in turn results in more blooms in the future. So whether you are looking to simply reduce the size of your plant or are looking to make yours look even more beautiful, keep reading to learn more about how to trim a Christmas cactus.
When to Prune Christmas Cactus Plants
The best time to prune a Christmas cactus is right after it has bloomed. At this time, the Christmas cactus will be entering a growth period and will start to put out new leaves. Pruning a Christmas cactus right after it blooms will force it to branch out, which means the plant will grow more of its distinctive stems. If you are not able to do your Christmas cactus pruning right after it blooms, you can prune the plant any time from after it blooms until late spring without doing harm to the Christmas cactus plant.
How to Trim a Christmas Cactus
Because of the unique stems, pruning a Christmas cactus is perhaps one of the easiest pruning jobs there is. All you need to do to prune a Christmas cactus is give the stems a quick twist between one of the segments. If this seems a bit harsh on your plant, you can also use a sharp knife or scissors to remove the segments. If you are pruning a Christmas cactus to reduce its size, you can remove up to one-third of the plant per year. If you are trimming Christmas cactus plants to make them grow in more fully, you only need to trim the end one to two segments from the stems. The really fun thing about trimming a Christmas cactus is that you can easily root the Christmas cactus cuttings and give the new plants to friends and family.
When to Prune Christmas Cactus Plants
The best time to prune a Christmas cactus is right after it has bloomed. At this time, the Christmas cactus will be entering a growth period and will start to put out new leaves. Pruning a Christmas cactus right after it blooms will force it to branch out, which means the plant will grow more of its distinctive stems. If you are not able to do your Christmas cactus pruning right after it blooms, you can prune the plant any time from after it blooms until late spring without doing harm to the Christmas cactus plant.
How to Trim a Christmas Cactus
Because of the unique stems, pruning a Christmas cactus is perhaps one of the easiest pruning jobs there is. All you need to do to prune a Christmas cactus is give the stems a quick twist between one of the segments. If this seems a bit harsh on your plant, you can also use a sharp knife or scissors to remove the segments. If you are pruning a Christmas cactus to reduce its size, you can remove up to one-third of the plant per year. If you are trimming Christmas cactus plants to make them grow in more fully, you only need to trim the end one to two segments from the stems. The really fun thing about trimming a Christmas cactus is that you can easily root the Christmas cactus cuttings and give the new plants to friends and family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Can agave grow in pots? You bet! With so many varieties of agave available, container grown agave plants are an excellent choice for the gardener with limited space, less than perfect soil conditions, and a lack of abundant sunlight. Since most agaves thrive year round in warmer climates, container plants are also a wonderful choice for gardeners living in climates that experience colder temperatures.Potted agave also provide the flexibility of being mobile. Growing agave plants in pots allows you to move the containers to the location that provides the light, temperature and weather conditions that will help your agave thrive.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Gardeners who have an ugly wall or underused vertical space may want to try growing Arizona grape ivy. What is Arizona grape ivy? This attractive, ornamental vine can get between 15 and 30 feet in height and self-attaches with small tendrils that bear suction cups on the ends. These “feet” cement themselves to structures and can be damaging if removal is necessary. In some zones, this plant is considered invasive so check with your local extension office before purchase. Otherwise, throw caution to the wind and check out Arizona grape ivy plants (Cissus trifoliata).
What is Arizona Grape Ivy?
Vertical spaces with green vines spilling over them accent the garden and lend lushness that bare wall or trellis simply can’t fake. Arizona grape ivy plants are fast growing, easy care vines with tiny flowers and pretty lobed leaves. They are mostly herbaceous but develop a woody base and numerous stems. Another name for the plant is possum grape vine.
Those of us not from Mexico or the American South may wonder, what are Arizona grape ivy plants? This North American native is a fast-growing vine that climbs into trees in its wild range. The plant is remarkably adaptable to almost any lighting because of its nature as an understory tree. In the wild, the tree starts life either in a sunny clearing or in a crowded forest with no light. As the plant grows upward, it reaches brighter and brighter conditions. In cultivation, the vine thrives in partial to full sun or even shade. In its habitat, the plant grows in stream banks, rocky ravines, and roadsides.
Possum Grape Vine Info
Possum or grape ivy is a hardy, herbaceous vine. It has three-lobed rubbery leaves nearly 4 inches long with grayish green color. The plant produces 2-inch wide small greenish flat clusters of blooms which become tiny, grape-like fruits. These are green but mature to a rich bluish black. The stems have tendrils which coil around any object to help pull the plant up as it grows. Reportedly, the leaves produce a rather nasty odor when crushed. The plant is attractive to bees and butterflies. Birds eat the fruits. Basic possum grape vine info must include the fact that the plant is semi-evergreen. In warmer climates, the plant tends to keep its leaves, but in temperate zones it will drop leaves in fall.
Growing Arizona Grape Ivy
This is one of the easiest plants to grow and is suitable for USDA hardiness zones 6 to 11. Once established, care of Arizona grape ivy is negligible. Choose a well-drained site where soil has been loosened and amended with compost or other organic material. The plant can tolerate either acidic to mildly alkaline soil. Provide a vertical structure for support as the plant grows and help it along at the beginning with plant ties. Possum vine is drought tolerant and resistant to deer, but it will need water during establishment. It also self-sows, so you may wish to remove the seed heads before they ripen. Care of Arizona grape ivy may require occasional pruning to keep the plant in habit.
What is Arizona Grape Ivy?
Vertical spaces with green vines spilling over them accent the garden and lend lushness that bare wall or trellis simply can’t fake. Arizona grape ivy plants are fast growing, easy care vines with tiny flowers and pretty lobed leaves. They are mostly herbaceous but develop a woody base and numerous stems. Another name for the plant is possum grape vine.
Those of us not from Mexico or the American South may wonder, what are Arizona grape ivy plants? This North American native is a fast-growing vine that climbs into trees in its wild range. The plant is remarkably adaptable to almost any lighting because of its nature as an understory tree. In the wild, the tree starts life either in a sunny clearing or in a crowded forest with no light. As the plant grows upward, it reaches brighter and brighter conditions. In cultivation, the vine thrives in partial to full sun or even shade. In its habitat, the plant grows in stream banks, rocky ravines, and roadsides.
Possum Grape Vine Info
Possum or grape ivy is a hardy, herbaceous vine. It has three-lobed rubbery leaves nearly 4 inches long with grayish green color. The plant produces 2-inch wide small greenish flat clusters of blooms which become tiny, grape-like fruits. These are green but mature to a rich bluish black. The stems have tendrils which coil around any object to help pull the plant up as it grows. Reportedly, the leaves produce a rather nasty odor when crushed. The plant is attractive to bees and butterflies. Birds eat the fruits. Basic possum grape vine info must include the fact that the plant is semi-evergreen. In warmer climates, the plant tends to keep its leaves, but in temperate zones it will drop leaves in fall.
Growing Arizona Grape Ivy
This is one of the easiest plants to grow and is suitable for USDA hardiness zones 6 to 11. Once established, care of Arizona grape ivy is negligible. Choose a well-drained site where soil has been loosened and amended with compost or other organic material. The plant can tolerate either acidic to mildly alkaline soil. Provide a vertical structure for support as the plant grows and help it along at the beginning with plant ties. Possum vine is drought tolerant and resistant to deer, but it will need water during establishment. It also self-sows, so you may wish to remove the seed heads before they ripen. Care of Arizona grape ivy may require occasional pruning to keep the plant in habit.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
If you work in an office space or lack a window in your room at home, chances are your only light is the overhead fluorescent bulbs or incandescent lighting. Lack of windows and exposure to sunlight can be bad for humans as well as plants but finding plants to brighten your cubicle or windowless room may be just the touch of outdoors needed to perk you up. There are many plants for windowless rooms that will thrive in artificial light. Let’s take a look at a few good options.
Choosing Plants for a Windowless Room
Plants need sunlight to photosynthesize, produce flowers and fruit and for overall health. That being said, plants are also uniquely adaptable and many vigorous specimens are perfect windowless houseplants. Choose a tried and true indoor specimen that will green up your space, clean your air and lend an aura of nature to any sterile indoor setting.
You don’t have to work in a warehouse or deep inside a skyscraper to experience low light indoor conditions. And many homes have lighting issues due to the placement of the rooms or shading from trees outside. Windowless houseplants are suitable for fully shaded or semi-shady areas. When choosing plants, consider the size before purchasing. For instance, a dracaena can get quite tall as can parlor palms.
Growth rate is another factor to consider. If you want a good sized plant, pick one with a rapid growth rate that will fill your area with greenery. Vining plants usually work well. If you want a hanging or trailing plant, try a heart-leaved philodendron or golden pothos. If you just want a little guy to gaze at thoughtfully, try a container of hens and chicks.
Plants for Windowless Rooms
There are several foolproof, classic plants for offices and darker homes. Among these include: Snake plant, or mother-in-law’s tongue, with sword-like, stiff leaves bearing attractive green and often gold markings. Cast iron plant is a quirky plant that can get up to 24 inches tall. Its name says it all, as it is not only tolerant of low light but also dampness, dust and general neglect. Peace lily is another plant with sword-like leaves but it produces a creamy white spathe resembling a big cupped flower. It prefers moist soil and average interior temperatures. Dracaena and philodendrons come in many forms and sizes, often with variegated leaves or splashes of alternate color and are great options as indoor plants for artificial light areas. Some other choices might be Chinese evergreen, spider plant or ZZ plant.
Growing Indoor Plants for Artificial Light Spaces
Once you’ve chosen plants for a windowless room, there are some considerations on care. Interior plants that are not exposed to direct light do not tend to dry out as quickly as their counterparts. You may need to resort to a water meter to tell when it is time to water the container. Overwatering is a real danger if you are adhering to a schedule made for plants with sun exposure. Interior plants, especially those with big leaves, need to be dusted or rinsed under water to remove debris which can clog the plant’s respiration system. Repotting every few years is a good idea, to refresh soil and go up a size on plants that are growing quickly. Fertilizer is crucial to interior plant health since they are confined to soil with limited nutrient value and cannot rely upon sunlight to create plant carbohydrates. Use a good houseplant fertilizer at least every month for healthy low light plants.
Choosing Plants for a Windowless Room
Plants need sunlight to photosynthesize, produce flowers and fruit and for overall health. That being said, plants are also uniquely adaptable and many vigorous specimens are perfect windowless houseplants. Choose a tried and true indoor specimen that will green up your space, clean your air and lend an aura of nature to any sterile indoor setting.
You don’t have to work in a warehouse or deep inside a skyscraper to experience low light indoor conditions. And many homes have lighting issues due to the placement of the rooms or shading from trees outside. Windowless houseplants are suitable for fully shaded or semi-shady areas. When choosing plants, consider the size before purchasing. For instance, a dracaena can get quite tall as can parlor palms.
Growth rate is another factor to consider. If you want a good sized plant, pick one with a rapid growth rate that will fill your area with greenery. Vining plants usually work well. If you want a hanging or trailing plant, try a heart-leaved philodendron or golden pothos. If you just want a little guy to gaze at thoughtfully, try a container of hens and chicks.
Plants for Windowless Rooms
There are several foolproof, classic plants for offices and darker homes. Among these include: Snake plant, or mother-in-law’s tongue, with sword-like, stiff leaves bearing attractive green and often gold markings. Cast iron plant is a quirky plant that can get up to 24 inches tall. Its name says it all, as it is not only tolerant of low light but also dampness, dust and general neglect. Peace lily is another plant with sword-like leaves but it produces a creamy white spathe resembling a big cupped flower. It prefers moist soil and average interior temperatures. Dracaena and philodendrons come in many forms and sizes, often with variegated leaves or splashes of alternate color and are great options as indoor plants for artificial light areas. Some other choices might be Chinese evergreen, spider plant or ZZ plant.
Growing Indoor Plants for Artificial Light Spaces
Once you’ve chosen plants for a windowless room, there are some considerations on care. Interior plants that are not exposed to direct light do not tend to dry out as quickly as their counterparts. You may need to resort to a water meter to tell when it is time to water the container. Overwatering is a real danger if you are adhering to a schedule made for plants with sun exposure. Interior plants, especially those with big leaves, need to be dusted or rinsed under water to remove debris which can clog the plant’s respiration system. Repotting every few years is a good idea, to refresh soil and go up a size on plants that are growing quickly. Fertilizer is crucial to interior plant health since they are confined to soil with limited nutrient value and cannot rely upon sunlight to create plant carbohydrates. Use a good houseplant fertilizer at least every month for healthy low light plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Traditional healers have used plants medicinally since time began, and modern herbalists continue to rely on herbs for treating a number of maladies. If you’re interested in growing plants with medicinal properties but you lack growing space for an outdoor herb garden, you can grow a variety of medicinal houseplants. Read on for a short list of houseplants that heal.
Growing Houseplants for Medicine
Healing houseplants can be found in the most common of plant species. Below are five plants that can be grown indoors and used medicinally.
One of the most popular medicinal houseplants, aloe vera leaves are handy for soothing minor burns, sunburn, rashes, and other skin conditions, thanks to its generous anti-inflammatory properties. The juice of an aloe plant may even brighten the skin and help prevent wrinkles. Basil is appreciated for its beautiful, bright green leaves, but basil tea may be an effective treatment for fever, coughs, and stomach complaints, including nausea, stomach cramps, constipation and gas. Basil leaves and juice have significant insecticidal qualities; just rub them on your skin to keep pests away. You can also chew basil leaves to strengthen your immune system or minimize the duration of a cold.
Peppermint is aggressive and can be difficult to control outdoors, but this easy-to-grow plant is one of the best healing houseplants for minor digestive complaints, including infant colic. The flavorful tea made from fresh or dried peppermint leaves isn’t only good for the tummy; it also purifies the blood, and of course, freshens the breath. Traditionally, lemon balm has been used to calm the nerves, reduce tension, relieve headaches, and treat mild insomnia and minimize symptoms of cold and flu. Some herbalists believe lemon balm is an effective treatment for mild depression and anxiety.
Thyme is valued for its culinary benefits, but thyme tea may relieve coughs, asthma and bronchitis, as well as sore throat, heartburn, arthritis, bad breath and gum disease. Thyme has powerful antifungal properties and a lotion or poultice made of the leaves will sooth athlete’s foot, ringworm and insect bites. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
Growing Houseplants for Medicine
Healing houseplants can be found in the most common of plant species. Below are five plants that can be grown indoors and used medicinally.
One of the most popular medicinal houseplants, aloe vera leaves are handy for soothing minor burns, sunburn, rashes, and other skin conditions, thanks to its generous anti-inflammatory properties. The juice of an aloe plant may even brighten the skin and help prevent wrinkles. Basil is appreciated for its beautiful, bright green leaves, but basil tea may be an effective treatment for fever, coughs, and stomach complaints, including nausea, stomach cramps, constipation and gas. Basil leaves and juice have significant insecticidal qualities; just rub them on your skin to keep pests away. You can also chew basil leaves to strengthen your immune system or minimize the duration of a cold.
Peppermint is aggressive and can be difficult to control outdoors, but this easy-to-grow plant is one of the best healing houseplants for minor digestive complaints, including infant colic. The flavorful tea made from fresh or dried peppermint leaves isn’t only good for the tummy; it also purifies the blood, and of course, freshens the breath. Traditionally, lemon balm has been used to calm the nerves, reduce tension, relieve headaches, and treat mild insomnia and minimize symptoms of cold and flu. Some herbalists believe lemon balm is an effective treatment for mild depression and anxiety.
Thyme is valued for its culinary benefits, but thyme tea may relieve coughs, asthma and bronchitis, as well as sore throat, heartburn, arthritis, bad breath and gum disease. Thyme has powerful antifungal properties and a lotion or poultice made of the leaves will sooth athlete’s foot, ringworm and insect bites. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Growing flame violets (Episcia cupreata) is a great way to add color to an indoor space. Episcia flame violet houseplants have attractive, velvety foliage and flowers similar to their cousin, the African violet. Episcia flame violet care isn’t complicated when you understand the basics. Your reward is an elegant, indoor flowering specimen.
Flame Violet Plant Info
There are several cultivars of the flame violet plant. Many trail down the sides of hanging baskets. North and South American natives, foliage of Episcia flame violet houseplants is green to bronze, red or even chocolate. Oval shaped leaves may have silvery edges, veins or margins. Their habit is low-growing and they flower in colors of red, pink, orange, yellow, lavender, or white throughout the year.
Episcia Flame Violet Care
Plant the flame violet plant in well-draining soil and place it where humidity is high. The velvety leaves of Episcia flame violet houseplants do not take well to misting or any contact with water. Instead, provide humidity with a pebble tray, a small decorative fountain or a humidifier in the area. As with most houseplants, indoor humidity is a challenge in winter, but high humidity greatly improves plant appearance when growing flame violets.
Watering Flame Violet Plant
Soil of the flame violet plant should remain moist. Bottom watering is a means of making sure the roots get necessary moisture without the chance of damaging the delicate leaves. Fill the plant saucer with water, then add the potted flame violet plant. Keep the plant in the water filled saucer until all water is absorbed or 30 minutes. If water remains, pour it out. If the water is absorbed quickly, try adding a little more, but don’t exceed the 30 minute limit. Water this way once a month in combination with top watering. Use warm to lukewarm water, not cold, when watering this plant.
Blooms of Episcia Flame Violet Houseplants
The right lighting encourages blooms on the flame violet. Keep this plant in bright, indirect light for at least 8 hours a day. Avoid direct sunlight. Fluorescent lighting can also be used. When growing this houseplant for blooms under fluorescent lights, increase the time to 12 hours.
Flame Violet Plant Info
There are several cultivars of the flame violet plant. Many trail down the sides of hanging baskets. North and South American natives, foliage of Episcia flame violet houseplants is green to bronze, red or even chocolate. Oval shaped leaves may have silvery edges, veins or margins. Their habit is low-growing and they flower in colors of red, pink, orange, yellow, lavender, or white throughout the year.
Episcia Flame Violet Care
Plant the flame violet plant in well-draining soil and place it where humidity is high. The velvety leaves of Episcia flame violet houseplants do not take well to misting or any contact with water. Instead, provide humidity with a pebble tray, a small decorative fountain or a humidifier in the area. As with most houseplants, indoor humidity is a challenge in winter, but high humidity greatly improves plant appearance when growing flame violets.
Watering Flame Violet Plant
Soil of the flame violet plant should remain moist. Bottom watering is a means of making sure the roots get necessary moisture without the chance of damaging the delicate leaves. Fill the plant saucer with water, then add the potted flame violet plant. Keep the plant in the water filled saucer until all water is absorbed or 30 minutes. If water remains, pour it out. If the water is absorbed quickly, try adding a little more, but don’t exceed the 30 minute limit. Water this way once a month in combination with top watering. Use warm to lukewarm water, not cold, when watering this plant.
Blooms of Episcia Flame Violet Houseplants
The right lighting encourages blooms on the flame violet. Keep this plant in bright, indirect light for at least 8 hours a day. Avoid direct sunlight. Fluorescent lighting can also be used. When growing this houseplant for blooms under fluorescent lights, increase the time to 12 hours.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses add beauty to any living space, but when their blooms begin to droop you have to act fast to prevent further damage to your plants. As beautiful as roses may be, they are not without problems. Roses are susceptible to pests and disease and even something as simple as an environmental change could seriously threaten the health of your roses.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca plants have tall blooming spikes and broad, sword-like leaves. Although native to desert climates, their hardiness and size have made them popular landscaping plants in other regions. If your yucca plants have grown too large for their space, you can cut them back while still maintaining their beauty.
Yucca Growth
Yuccas are drought-resistant and easy to take care of. Yucca plants grow by sending out rhizomes from the main stalk. The rhizomes sprout new baby plants, which is why yucca spreads so efficiently that some people consider it a pest. One way of propagating yuccas is to cut the rhizomes with baby plants from the main root. Dividing yuccas to control their growth works on the same principle. As the yucca plant grows, it's necessary to thin it out by dividing it because the plant can begin to crowd itself with too many clumps packed closely together.
Dividing Yucca
You might be able to divide the yucca plant without digging it up. If you look around the base of the plant, you will see the smaller clumps of baby plants on smaller rhizomes, called offsets. Rhizomes look more like twisted underground branches than roots, and you don't have to be as gentle with them as you do with exposed root systems. Use a saw, shovel or a strong knife, such as a machete, to break the offsets of the main rhizome. Don't be afraid to use force—rhizomes can be quite difficult to break apart, and it's unlikely you'll hurt the main plant.
Propagating Yucca From Divisions
Divide yuccas for propagation in late fall or early winter, when the plant is dormant. If you want to propagate your yucca plant with the divisions, be a little more careful when separating the offsets from the main plant. To better see where the offsets are attached, you should dig up the whole yucca plant. You will still need to use a shovel, saw or strong knife to detach the offshoots from the main stem, but take care to preserve as much of the offset rhizome as possible.
If your yucca plant has grown so large that it needs to be divided, you probably have several viable baby plants there. This means that even if you damage a few offsets, you will have plenty more that can be planted. Before planting the offsets, put them in a cool place to dry off for a few days. Plant them in sandy, well-drained soil. Bury the rhizome up to the base of the foliage, and water it in well. Keep the plant well-watered for at least three months until it's established.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Malus domestica
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Apples trees aren’t just for people with acres upon acres of land. Even in a small space, you can plant a hedge of dwarf apple trees or an apple espalier and yield a successful crop.
PLANTING
Spring planting is recommended in central and northern areas. Where fall and winter weather is generally mild and moist, fall planting is successful.
Climate Considerations
Not every apple grows everywhere. Each variety has a specific number of days needed for fruit maturity.
Tree tags don’t always tell you where the variety grows best, but many catalogs do. Also check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for a recommendation specific to your area.
As a general rule, if a tree is termed hardy, it grows best in Hardiness Zones 3 to 5. If termed long-season, apple quality will be best in Zones 5 to 8. Check your zone here.
Each variety has a number of chill hours needed to set fruit (i.e., the amount of time temperatures are between 32 and 45 degrees F). The farther north you go, the more chill hours an apple variety needs to avoid late spring freeze problems. Check tree tags for chill hour information or ask the seller.
Site and Soil
Take a soil test prior to planting your apple trees. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can instruct you in collecting the soil sample, help you interpret the results, and provide valuable information about the soil in your county. Results from the soil test will determine the soil amendments necessary to correct nutrient deficiencies and adjust soil pH. The amendments should be worked into the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches where the tree will root, not just the planting hole.
Apple trees need well-drained soil, nothing too wet. Soil needs to be moderately rich and retain moisture as well as air; mulch with straw, hay, or some other organic material to keep soil moist and provide nutrients as they decompose.
Choose a sunny site. For best fruiting, an apple tree needs “full sunlight,” which means six or more hours of direct summer sun daily. The best exposure for apples is a north- or east-facing slope.
Tree spacing is influenced by the rootstock, soil fertility, and pruning. Seedlings or full-size trees should be planted about 15 to 18 feet apart in a row. A dwarfing rootstock might be 4 to 8 feet apart in a row.
Dwarf apple trees are notoriously prone to uprooting under the weight of a heavy crop, so you should provide a support system for your hedge. You can grow your trees against a fence, or you can provide free-standing support in the form of a trellis.
Make sure the tree will not be planted in a “frost pocket” where cold air settles in low-lying areas. Choose a higher site with a slip if possible so that cold air will flow away from the trees.
Do not plant trees near wooded areas or trees.
Planting the Tree in the Ground
Before planting, remove all weeds and the grass in a 4-foot diameter circle.
After you purchase the tree, protect it from injury, drying out, freezing, or overheating. If the roots have dried out, soak them in water about 24 hours before planting.
Dig a hole approximately twice the diameter of the root system and 2 feet deep. Place some of the loose soil back into the hole and loosen the soil on the walls of the planting hole so the roots can easily penetrate the soil. Spread the tree roots on the loose soil, making sure they are not twisted or crowded in the hole. Continue to replace soil around the roots. As you begin to cover the roots, firm the soil to be sure it surrounds the roots and to remove air pockets.
Do not add fertilizer at planting time, as the roots can be “burned”. Fill the remainder of the hole with the loose soil, and press the soil down well.
Most apple trees are grafted. The graft union must be at least 2 inches above the soil line so that roots do not emerge from the scion. The graft union (where the scion is attached to the rootstock) can be recognized by the swelling at the junction.
CARE
Minimize Pruning of a Young Tree
Pruning slows a young tree’s overall growth and can delay fruiting, so don’t be in a hurry to prune, other than removing misplaced, broken, or dead branches. There are several techniques to direct growth without heavy pruning. For example:
Rub off misplaced buds before they grow into misplaced branches.
Bend a stem down almost horizontally for a few weeks to slow growth and promote branches and fruiting. Tie down with strings to stakes in the ground or to lower branches.
Prune a Mature Tree Annually
Once an apple tree has filled in and is bearing fruit, it requires regular, moderate pruning.
Prune your mature tree when it is dormant. Completely cut away overly vigorous, upright stems (most common high up in the tree).
Remove weak twigs (which often hang from the undersides of limbs.
Shorten stems that become too droopy, especially those low in the tree.
After about ten years, fruiting spurs (stubby branches that elongate only about a half-inch per year) become overcrowded and decrepit. Cut away some of them and shorten others.
When a whole limb of fruiting spurs declines with age, cut it back to make room for a younger replacement.
Thin Ruthlessly
Thin or remove excess fruit. This seems hard but this practice evens out production, prevents a heavy crop from breaking limbs, and ensures better-tasting, larger fruit crop.
Soon after fruit-set, remove the smallest fruits or damaged ones, leaving about four inches between those that remain.
PESTS/DISEASES
Apples are prone to pests. Here are some pointers:
Keep deer at bay with repellents, fencing, or deer-resistant plants; deter mice and rabbits with wire-mesh cylinders around the base of the tree.
Sprays may be needed for insects like Japanese beetles, although one of the worst culprits, the apple maggot, can be trapped simply enough by hanging one or two round, softball-size balls—painted red and coated with sticky “Tangle-Trap”—from a branch in June through the summer. Reapply the sticky goo a time or two, as necessary.
Fend off diseases by raking apple leaves, burying them beneath mulch, or grinding them with a lawnmower at season’s end.
Pruning reduces disease by letting in more light and air.
To keep insects away from apple trees, make a solution of 1 cup of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, and 1 quart of water. Pour this mixture into a widemouthed plastic jug. Hang the jug, uncovered, in your apple tree.
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Apples trees aren’t just for people with acres upon acres of land. Even in a small space, you can plant a hedge of dwarf apple trees or an apple espalier and yield a successful crop.
PLANTING
Spring planting is recommended in central and northern areas. Where fall and winter weather is generally mild and moist, fall planting is successful.
Climate Considerations
Not every apple grows everywhere. Each variety has a specific number of days needed for fruit maturity.
Tree tags don’t always tell you where the variety grows best, but many catalogs do. Also check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for a recommendation specific to your area.
As a general rule, if a tree is termed hardy, it grows best in Hardiness Zones 3 to 5. If termed long-season, apple quality will be best in Zones 5 to 8. Check your zone here.
Each variety has a number of chill hours needed to set fruit (i.e., the amount of time temperatures are between 32 and 45 degrees F). The farther north you go, the more chill hours an apple variety needs to avoid late spring freeze problems. Check tree tags for chill hour information or ask the seller.
Site and Soil
Take a soil test prior to planting your apple trees. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can instruct you in collecting the soil sample, help you interpret the results, and provide valuable information about the soil in your county. Results from the soil test will determine the soil amendments necessary to correct nutrient deficiencies and adjust soil pH. The amendments should be worked into the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches where the tree will root, not just the planting hole.
Apple trees need well-drained soil, nothing too wet. Soil needs to be moderately rich and retain moisture as well as air; mulch with straw, hay, or some other organic material to keep soil moist and provide nutrients as they decompose.
Choose a sunny site. For best fruiting, an apple tree needs “full sunlight,” which means six or more hours of direct summer sun daily. The best exposure for apples is a north- or east-facing slope.
Tree spacing is influenced by the rootstock, soil fertility, and pruning. Seedlings or full-size trees should be planted about 15 to 18 feet apart in a row. A dwarfing rootstock might be 4 to 8 feet apart in a row.
Dwarf apple trees are notoriously prone to uprooting under the weight of a heavy crop, so you should provide a support system for your hedge. You can grow your trees against a fence, or you can provide free-standing support in the form of a trellis.
Make sure the tree will not be planted in a “frost pocket” where cold air settles in low-lying areas. Choose a higher site with a slip if possible so that cold air will flow away from the trees.
Do not plant trees near wooded areas or trees.
Planting the Tree in the Ground
Before planting, remove all weeds and the grass in a 4-foot diameter circle.
After you purchase the tree, protect it from injury, drying out, freezing, or overheating. If the roots have dried out, soak them in water about 24 hours before planting.
Dig a hole approximately twice the diameter of the root system and 2 feet deep. Place some of the loose soil back into the hole and loosen the soil on the walls of the planting hole so the roots can easily penetrate the soil. Spread the tree roots on the loose soil, making sure they are not twisted or crowded in the hole. Continue to replace soil around the roots. As you begin to cover the roots, firm the soil to be sure it surrounds the roots and to remove air pockets.
Do not add fertilizer at planting time, as the roots can be “burned”. Fill the remainder of the hole with the loose soil, and press the soil down well.
Most apple trees are grafted. The graft union must be at least 2 inches above the soil line so that roots do not emerge from the scion. The graft union (where the scion is attached to the rootstock) can be recognized by the swelling at the junction.
CARE
Minimize Pruning of a Young Tree
Pruning slows a young tree’s overall growth and can delay fruiting, so don’t be in a hurry to prune, other than removing misplaced, broken, or dead branches. There are several techniques to direct growth without heavy pruning. For example:
Rub off misplaced buds before they grow into misplaced branches.
Bend a stem down almost horizontally for a few weeks to slow growth and promote branches and fruiting. Tie down with strings to stakes in the ground or to lower branches.
Prune a Mature Tree Annually
Once an apple tree has filled in and is bearing fruit, it requires regular, moderate pruning.
Prune your mature tree when it is dormant. Completely cut away overly vigorous, upright stems (most common high up in the tree).
Remove weak twigs (which often hang from the undersides of limbs.
Shorten stems that become too droopy, especially those low in the tree.
After about ten years, fruiting spurs (stubby branches that elongate only about a half-inch per year) become overcrowded and decrepit. Cut away some of them and shorten others.
When a whole limb of fruiting spurs declines with age, cut it back to make room for a younger replacement.
Thin Ruthlessly
Thin or remove excess fruit. This seems hard but this practice evens out production, prevents a heavy crop from breaking limbs, and ensures better-tasting, larger fruit crop.
Soon after fruit-set, remove the smallest fruits or damaged ones, leaving about four inches between those that remain.
PESTS/DISEASES
Apples are prone to pests. Here are some pointers:
Keep deer at bay with repellents, fencing, or deer-resistant plants; deter mice and rabbits with wire-mesh cylinders around the base of the tree.
Sprays may be needed for insects like Japanese beetles, although one of the worst culprits, the apple maggot, can be trapped simply enough by hanging one or two round, softball-size balls—painted red and coated with sticky “Tangle-Trap”—from a branch in June through the summer. Reapply the sticky goo a time or two, as necessary.
Fend off diseases by raking apple leaves, burying them beneath mulch, or grinding them with a lawnmower at season’s end.
Pruning reduces disease by letting in more light and air.
To keep insects away from apple trees, make a solution of 1 cup of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, and 1 quart of water. Pour this mixture into a widemouthed plastic jug. Hang the jug, uncovered, in your apple tree.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
The first step to setting up your first hydroponic garden is selecting a system that best fits your needs. Important factors to consider include, how much space you have, what you want to grow and how much, cost, and how much time you have to spend maintaining the system. The three most basic setups recommended for beginners are Wick, Water Culture, and Ebb & Flow. All 3 of these systems can be built from separate components or bought complete either online or in a hydroponics store.
Wick Systems
Wicke systems are by and large the most simple and easiest to set up because there are no moving parts. The system contains a reservoir filled with water and nutrients and above it, a container filled with growing medium. The two containers are connected by a wick, which draws the nutrient-filled water up into the growing medium where it is happily absorbed by your plants. This system is great for learning the basics, but may not work well with large or water-hungry plants such as lettuce, because the wick cannot supply water fast enough. This system works extremely well with micro greens, herbs, and peppers.
Water Culture
It is another extremely simple system to set up. In this system, the plants are placed into a Styrofoam platform that sits right on top of the reservoir. An air pump is added to the reservoir to deliver oxygen to the roots. This system is ideally suited for water-hungry plants, but not for more long-term plants such as tomatoes.
Ebb & Flow
Ebb & Flow systems are slightly more complex but are extremely versatile. This system works by flooding the growing medium with a solution and then draining it back into the reservoir. To do this, you need a submersible pump with a timer. One of the greatest advantages of Ebb & Flow is that you can use the timer to customize your plants’ watering schedule based on the plant size, number of plants, temperature, humidity, etc.
You also have the option of potting plants individually for easy customization or filling the entire tray with growing medium and planting directly in the tray.
Choosing What to Grow
Just about any plant can be grown hydroponically, but for beginners, it is best to start small. The best choices are herbs and vegetables that grow quickly, require little maintenance, and do not have a huge variety of nutrient needs. You want fast-growing plants so that you can assess how well your system works and tweak it as necessary. It would be a real letdown to wait months until harvest time only to find out your system is not working properly. Maintenance-free plants are great for beginners because they allow you to focus on learning about your system- you can move on to more complex veggies later. If you are growing a variety of plants, it is also important to make sure that they are similar in their nutrient requirements, so that they grow well together.
Good Starter Plants
Greens such as lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and kale.
Herbs such as basil, parsley, oregano, cilantro and mint
White palm
Epipremnum aureum
Chlorophytum
Wick Systems
Wicke systems are by and large the most simple and easiest to set up because there are no moving parts. The system contains a reservoir filled with water and nutrients and above it, a container filled with growing medium. The two containers are connected by a wick, which draws the nutrient-filled water up into the growing medium where it is happily absorbed by your plants. This system is great for learning the basics, but may not work well with large or water-hungry plants such as lettuce, because the wick cannot supply water fast enough. This system works extremely well with micro greens, herbs, and peppers.
Water Culture
It is another extremely simple system to set up. In this system, the plants are placed into a Styrofoam platform that sits right on top of the reservoir. An air pump is added to the reservoir to deliver oxygen to the roots. This system is ideally suited for water-hungry plants, but not for more long-term plants such as tomatoes.
Ebb & Flow
Ebb & Flow systems are slightly more complex but are extremely versatile. This system works by flooding the growing medium with a solution and then draining it back into the reservoir. To do this, you need a submersible pump with a timer. One of the greatest advantages of Ebb & Flow is that you can use the timer to customize your plants’ watering schedule based on the plant size, number of plants, temperature, humidity, etc.
You also have the option of potting plants individually for easy customization or filling the entire tray with growing medium and planting directly in the tray.
Choosing What to Grow
Just about any plant can be grown hydroponically, but for beginners, it is best to start small. The best choices are herbs and vegetables that grow quickly, require little maintenance, and do not have a huge variety of nutrient needs. You want fast-growing plants so that you can assess how well your system works and tweak it as necessary. It would be a real letdown to wait months until harvest time only to find out your system is not working properly. Maintenance-free plants are great for beginners because they allow you to focus on learning about your system- you can move on to more complex veggies later. If you are growing a variety of plants, it is also important to make sure that they are similar in their nutrient requirements, so that they grow well together.
Good Starter Plants
Greens such as lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and kale.
Herbs such as basil, parsley, oregano, cilantro and mint
White palm
Epipremnum aureum
Chlorophytum
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Think Outside the Pot
If you've got a postage stamp for a yard or you're such an avid gardener that you've filled all your space, it's time to explore new gardening territory with vertical gardening. Follow the tips below for a few traditional and innovative ways to add new foliage to your small or plant-packed garden.
The Traditional Way: Grow Vines
Vines are growing machines. Some of them can grow to 50 feet in length. If you have a fence or wall in need of livening up, try vines. Clematis is tame, while trumpet vines are more adventurous and can tear up your siding, so be sure to pick a variety that's suitable to your setting. You can put up a trellis on your wall or fence for your vine to follow, or build an arbor or pergola. Either way, you can create a stunning assortment of flowers and greenery with vines alone, and attracts birds and butterflies to your yard.
Grow Down
With planters, you can create your own version of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Put containers along balconies or ledges and add trailing plants such as petunias or million bells, which will create a green and flowery curtain that sways in the breeze. Your hanging garden can also provide some much-needed shade during a hot summer.
Make a Living Wall
Grow plants on your interior or exterior walls using a hanging structure like ELT's living walls. You can use just about any kind of plant that has shallow roots to create beautiful designs that look more like a tapestry than a garden. ELT's vertical garden system is a 20 by 24 inch rectangular plastic structure that has 25 containers in which to place your plants. You can fasten any number of rectangles together to cover any surface you want. They also make a vertical garden for interiors, either on the floor or as a frame on the wall. If you have a sloped roof that's exposed to sun all day, you can put some rectangles up to create an inexpensive green roof. Green roofs are becoming popular in Europe as a means of slowing down runoff and cooling buildings without air conditioning.
If you've got a postage stamp for a yard or you're such an avid gardener that you've filled all your space, it's time to explore new gardening territory with vertical gardening. Follow the tips below for a few traditional and innovative ways to add new foliage to your small or plant-packed garden.
The Traditional Way: Grow Vines
Vines are growing machines. Some of them can grow to 50 feet in length. If you have a fence or wall in need of livening up, try vines. Clematis is tame, while trumpet vines are more adventurous and can tear up your siding, so be sure to pick a variety that's suitable to your setting. You can put up a trellis on your wall or fence for your vine to follow, or build an arbor or pergola. Either way, you can create a stunning assortment of flowers and greenery with vines alone, and attracts birds and butterflies to your yard.
Grow Down
With planters, you can create your own version of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Put containers along balconies or ledges and add trailing plants such as petunias or million bells, which will create a green and flowery curtain that sways in the breeze. Your hanging garden can also provide some much-needed shade during a hot summer.
Make a Living Wall
Grow plants on your interior or exterior walls using a hanging structure like ELT's living walls. You can use just about any kind of plant that has shallow roots to create beautiful designs that look more like a tapestry than a garden. ELT's vertical garden system is a 20 by 24 inch rectangular plastic structure that has 25 containers in which to place your plants. You can fasten any number of rectangles together to cover any surface you want. They also make a vertical garden for interiors, either on the floor or as a frame on the wall. If you have a sloped roof that's exposed to sun all day, you can put some rectangles up to create an inexpensive green roof. Green roofs are becoming popular in Europe as a means of slowing down runoff and cooling buildings without air conditioning.
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