文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月13日
Cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) is a large flowering shrub with bright green, lobed, hairy leaves that stretch roughly 3 to 6 inches long and wide. The stems can grow tall and wide enough to become tree-like. But the plant's flowers are its real show-stopping feature.
They begin blooming in the summertime, starting off as a white or light pink color. Typically within one to three days, the color changes to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. The blooms then last for several more days. The shrub usually will have flowers at various stages of the color-change process on it all at once, providing exceptional visual interest. Fuzzy seed pods, whose cotton-like appearance gives the plant its common name, follow the flowers.
Cotton rose shrubs have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Name Cotton rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus mutabilis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall, 6–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, pink, red
Hardiness Zones 7–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Cotton Rose Care
Cotton rose can provide lots of drama in the landscape, yet it requires minimal maintenance. It’s not overly picky about its soil as long as there’s good drainage, and it can tolerate some drought. It’s even known to be deer-resistant.
You’ll typically have to prune annually, though the shrub usually doesn’t need extensive pruning. And plan to water and fertilize during the growing season.
Light
For best growth, plant your cotton rose in a spot that gets full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. The shrub also can tolerate partial shade, though it might not flower as profusely.
Soil
This shrub can grow in most soils with good drainage. But it does best in a loamy soil that’s rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH is ideal.
Water
While cotton rose can tolerate some drought, it’s best to maintain a moderate amount of moisture during the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Water minimally during the winter—just enough to prevent the soil from fully drying out. Try to avoid getting the foliage wet when watering, as this can promote fungal growth.
Temperature and Humidity
This is not a cold-hardy shrub. Frost will cause it to drop its leaves in the fall and enter dormancy. Then, it can tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing over the winter, but anything colder might damage or kill the shrub. Humidity typically isn’t a factor as long as adequate soil moisture and good air circulation around the shrub are maintained.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer isn't essential unless you have poor soil, but it can help to speed growth. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, following label instructions.
Types of Cotton Rose
There are several types of cotton rose, including:
'Cotton Rose Nagoya': This cultivar features white flowers.
'Plenus': This cultivar is known for its double blooms.
'Rubra': Red flowers are the trademark of this cultivar.
Pruning
Prune your cotton rose in the late winter or early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as they arise. Usually only a light pruning is necessary to shape growth. But if your shrub has become leggy and unsightly, you can cut it back almost to the ground. New shoots will quickly grow to fill in the space.
Propagating Cotton Rose
Cotton rose can be propagated by stem cuttings. Not only is this a cheap and easy way to get new plants, but it also allows you to put any stems that you pruned off to good use. The best time to take cuttings is in the late winter to early spring. Here’s how:
Trim off a piece of healthy stem that’s around 1 to 1.5 feet long. Cut just below a leaf node, and make your cut at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the cutting in a moist soilless potting mix. Use a 1-gallon container with drainage holes.
Place the container in a bright, south-facing window or in a sheltered area that gets partial sun outside if you live in a warmer climate.
Keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and roots should form in roughly four to six weeks.
How to Grow Cotton Rose From Seed
Direct sow cotton rose seeds in the spring; they germinate best when the temperatures are between roughly 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant them about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You should see germination within a week or two, and plants can even flower in their first year if they're started early enough.
Potting and Repotting Cotton Rose
It’s possible to grow cotton rose in a pot, but this likely will stunt the shrub’s growth and diminish its blooms. Also, note that container plants generally need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground.
Use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. And select a container that allows for at least a few inches of extra space on all sides of the plant’s root ball. The container also should have drainage holes. Unglazed clay is a good material to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. But you might want to consider using a grow bag because it will be lighter to move.
When you see roots coming out of the drainage holes and popping up from the soil line, it’s time to repot. It’s best to do this in the spring. Choose a container size up, and add fresh soil around the root ball.
Overwintering
In the colder parts of cotton rose's growing zones, the stems often naturally die back over the winter. But the shrub still should produce fresh growth in the spring. Plan to prune off the stems that have died back in the late winter to early spring. If you do it earlier as part of your garden's overwintering maintenance, this can damage the shrub.
If you’re growing your cotton rose in a container and live in the cooler parts of its growing zones, bring it into an unheated garage or shed over the winter. This will help to prevent the container soil from getting too cold and damaging the plant's roots.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cotton rose is susceptible to some common garden pests, including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and scale. Infestations often can be treated with insecticidal soaps or even a strong spray of water.
Common diseases include leaf spot, southern stem blight, and powdery mildew. Remove any stems with signs of fungal growth. Also, aim to prevent fungal diseases by watering only at the base of the plant and maintaining good air flow around it.
How to Get Cotton Rose to Bloom
Cotton rose flowers are a saucer shape with four to five petals each. They stretch around 3 to 6 inches across. Blooming typically begins in the late summer and stretches into fall. The flowers won't provide fragrance for your garden, but they will attract many beneficial pollinators.
It's not essential to deadhead, or remove the spent blooms, but it can help to promote further blooming. However, this plant will typically bloom profusely on its own as well. Just make sure it has sufficient sunlight, moisture, and organic matter in the soil to support flowering.
Common Problems With Cotton Rose
When grown in the conditions it likes, cotton rose isn’t prone to serious problems. However, an inadequate environment can lead to some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Make sure the soil is never waterlogged. But on the flip side, plan to water a little extra in hot weather.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
In the warmest parts of its growing zones, this shrub often holds onto its leaves year-round. But during the winter months in its cooler zones, it will naturally drop some or all of its leaves. This isn’t cause for concern, as it will regrow come spring. However, leaf drop during the growing season can be a sign of inadequate watering or disease.
FAQ
What's the difference between cotton roses and roses?
While they share a common name, cotton roses are actually members of the Hibiscus genus while roses are of the Rosa genus. However, both plants’ showy blooms do somewhat resemble each other.
Where should I place cotton rose outside my house?
The cotton rose can make for a dramatic specimen planting, providing a showy floral display toward the end of the growing season when many other plants have already wrapped up their blooming period. It also can be grown as a shrub border.
Can cotton rose be grown indoors?
It is not ideal to try to grow cotton rose shrubs indoors. They require direct sunlight to grow and bloom at their best. And they generally become too large to be a houseplant.
They begin blooming in the summertime, starting off as a white or light pink color. Typically within one to three days, the color changes to a magenta pink and then a dark pink to red. The blooms then last for several more days. The shrub usually will have flowers at various stages of the color-change process on it all at once, providing exceptional visual interest. Fuzzy seed pods, whose cotton-like appearance gives the plant its common name, follow the flowers.
Cotton rose shrubs have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Name Cotton rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus mutabilis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall, 6–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, pink, red
Hardiness Zones 7–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Cotton Rose Care
Cotton rose can provide lots of drama in the landscape, yet it requires minimal maintenance. It’s not overly picky about its soil as long as there’s good drainage, and it can tolerate some drought. It’s even known to be deer-resistant.
You’ll typically have to prune annually, though the shrub usually doesn’t need extensive pruning. And plan to water and fertilize during the growing season.
Light
For best growth, plant your cotton rose in a spot that gets full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. The shrub also can tolerate partial shade, though it might not flower as profusely.
Soil
This shrub can grow in most soils with good drainage. But it does best in a loamy soil that’s rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH is ideal.
Water
While cotton rose can tolerate some drought, it’s best to maintain a moderate amount of moisture during the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 inches of soil dry out. Water minimally during the winter—just enough to prevent the soil from fully drying out. Try to avoid getting the foliage wet when watering, as this can promote fungal growth.
Temperature and Humidity
This is not a cold-hardy shrub. Frost will cause it to drop its leaves in the fall and enter dormancy. Then, it can tolerate temperatures slightly below freezing over the winter, but anything colder might damage or kill the shrub. Humidity typically isn’t a factor as long as adequate soil moisture and good air circulation around the shrub are maintained.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer isn't essential unless you have poor soil, but it can help to speed growth. Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, following label instructions.
Types of Cotton Rose
There are several types of cotton rose, including:
'Cotton Rose Nagoya': This cultivar features white flowers.
'Plenus': This cultivar is known for its double blooms.
'Rubra': Red flowers are the trademark of this cultivar.
Pruning
Prune your cotton rose in the late winter or early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as they arise. Usually only a light pruning is necessary to shape growth. But if your shrub has become leggy and unsightly, you can cut it back almost to the ground. New shoots will quickly grow to fill in the space.
Propagating Cotton Rose
Cotton rose can be propagated by stem cuttings. Not only is this a cheap and easy way to get new plants, but it also allows you to put any stems that you pruned off to good use. The best time to take cuttings is in the late winter to early spring. Here’s how:
Trim off a piece of healthy stem that’s around 1 to 1.5 feet long. Cut just below a leaf node, and make your cut at a 45-degree angle.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
Plant the cutting in a moist soilless potting mix. Use a 1-gallon container with drainage holes.
Place the container in a bright, south-facing window or in a sheltered area that gets partial sun outside if you live in a warmer climate.
Keep the soil lightly moist but never waterlogged, and roots should form in roughly four to six weeks.
How to Grow Cotton Rose From Seed
Direct sow cotton rose seeds in the spring; they germinate best when the temperatures are between roughly 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant them about 1/4 inch deep, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You should see germination within a week or two, and plants can even flower in their first year if they're started early enough.
Potting and Repotting Cotton Rose
It’s possible to grow cotton rose in a pot, but this likely will stunt the shrub’s growth and diminish its blooms. Also, note that container plants generally need more frequent watering than those grown in the ground.
Use a quality all-purpose potting mix with good drainage. And select a container that allows for at least a few inches of extra space on all sides of the plant’s root ball. The container also should have drainage holes. Unglazed clay is a good material to allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls. But you might want to consider using a grow bag because it will be lighter to move.
When you see roots coming out of the drainage holes and popping up from the soil line, it’s time to repot. It’s best to do this in the spring. Choose a container size up, and add fresh soil around the root ball.
Overwintering
In the colder parts of cotton rose's growing zones, the stems often naturally die back over the winter. But the shrub still should produce fresh growth in the spring. Plan to prune off the stems that have died back in the late winter to early spring. If you do it earlier as part of your garden's overwintering maintenance, this can damage the shrub.
If you’re growing your cotton rose in a container and live in the cooler parts of its growing zones, bring it into an unheated garage or shed over the winter. This will help to prevent the container soil from getting too cold and damaging the plant's roots.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cotton rose is susceptible to some common garden pests, including aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, spider mites, and scale. Infestations often can be treated with insecticidal soaps or even a strong spray of water.
Common diseases include leaf spot, southern stem blight, and powdery mildew. Remove any stems with signs of fungal growth. Also, aim to prevent fungal diseases by watering only at the base of the plant and maintaining good air flow around it.
How to Get Cotton Rose to Bloom
Cotton rose flowers are a saucer shape with four to five petals each. They stretch around 3 to 6 inches across. Blooming typically begins in the late summer and stretches into fall. The flowers won't provide fragrance for your garden, but they will attract many beneficial pollinators.
It's not essential to deadhead, or remove the spent blooms, but it can help to promote further blooming. However, this plant will typically bloom profusely on its own as well. Just make sure it has sufficient sunlight, moisture, and organic matter in the soil to support flowering.
Common Problems With Cotton Rose
When grown in the conditions it likes, cotton rose isn’t prone to serious problems. However, an inadequate environment can lead to some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing leaves can often be a sign of overwatering or underwatering. Make sure the soil is never waterlogged. But on the flip side, plan to water a little extra in hot weather.
Plant Leaves Falling Off
In the warmest parts of its growing zones, this shrub often holds onto its leaves year-round. But during the winter months in its cooler zones, it will naturally drop some or all of its leaves. This isn’t cause for concern, as it will regrow come spring. However, leaf drop during the growing season can be a sign of inadequate watering or disease.
FAQ
What's the difference between cotton roses and roses?
While they share a common name, cotton roses are actually members of the Hibiscus genus while roses are of the Rosa genus. However, both plants’ showy blooms do somewhat resemble each other.
Where should I place cotton rose outside my house?
The cotton rose can make for a dramatic specimen planting, providing a showy floral display toward the end of the growing season when many other plants have already wrapped up their blooming period. It also can be grown as a shrub border.
Can cotton rose be grown indoors?
It is not ideal to try to grow cotton rose shrubs indoors. They require direct sunlight to grow and bloom at their best. And they generally become too large to be a houseplant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月07日
Cosmos are freely flowering annuals that are easy to grow by sprinkling some seeds in the garden after any danger of frost has passed. These quintessential cottage garden flowers reach full maturity in about two months. Cosmos can be slower to germinate, but it blooms quickly after that and continues to flower through the fall. The flowers sit atop long slender stems and form a cloud of attractive color all summer that attracts bees, butterflies, and birds to your garden. Cosmos flowers look a lot like daisies. They come in a broad range of colors, with more cultivars developed every year. The leaves grow opposite on stems and are deeply lobed, pinnate, or bipinnate and feathery-looking depending on the type. If you plan to have cosmos and live in the southern U.S., consider keeping them as potted plants since they tend to be invasive there.1
Common Name Cosmos, Mexican aster, cut-leaf cosmos
Botanical Name Cosmos sulphureus, Cosmos bipinnatus
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 1-6 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0–6.8 (Acidic)
Bloom Time Summer through fall
Flower Color Golden yellow, white, pink, magenta, orange, yellow, red, chocolate
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area northern South America, Central America, and southern North America
Cosmos Care
Cosmos grow easily in beds and make great cut flowers. When established, the plants can handle drought, poor soil conditions, and general neglect. They even self-sow. This is a truly low-maintenance plant.
While some pests, like aphids, flea beetles, and thrips feed on cosmos, they're easy to control with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Aster yellows, bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew may also affect cosmos.2 Space plants accordingly to ensure good airflow to avoid diseases.
Taller varieties look good in the middle or rear of the border with goat's beard, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Shorter varieties make very colorful, airy edging plants.
WARNING
Cosmos sulphureus is invasive in the southeast United States.1 Check with representatives from your local extension office to learn about any restrictions in your area.
Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall. Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pruning
The only real maintenance cosmos plants need is deadheading which will prolong the flowering season. If you fall behind, shear the plants by about one-third, when most flowers have faded. This kind of pruning produces a second flush of leaves and flowers. By the end of the season, you can cut off the plants at ground level or pull them up, roots and all. However, if you leave the plants in place, they may self-seed for the following growing season.
Propagating Cosmos
Cosmos plants readily self-seed. It's best to propagate these plants after the threat of frost is gone. Although sowing seeds is the best and easiest way to propagate this plant, you can also propagate via stem cutting. When you take stem trimmings, it stimulates more leaf and flower growth. Besides seed, stem cutting is the best way to propagate this plant. Here's how you do it:
You'll need sterile pruning shears or scissors and a pot of sterile, well-draining potting soil.
Fill a small 3-inch container with moistened potting soil. Using a pencil tip, push straight down in the soil about 1 to 2 inches deep, making a shallow hole.
Look for a cosmos shoot that has 3 to 5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut under the last leaf node. At the last leaf node, carefully cut off the leaves, leaving the node intact for new growth.
Bury the cut tip of the stem in the pencil-made hole. Make sure that the last leaf node is above the soil line. Push down the soil around the stem, compacting the soil to keep the stem upright and in place.
Water generously and keep moist. You should notice new leaf growth within three weeks. If you do, you can gently pull the root ball out of the container, Transplant the root ball to its new location.
How to Grow Cosmos From Seeds
Start seeds indoors, four to six weeks before the last frost. Or if you can sow cosmos outdoors directly in the garden well after the threat of frost is gone. Cosmos grow very quickly but can be killed by a late frost, so don't rush it. They typically germinate in 7 to 21 days at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by flowering in about 50 to 60 days.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Plant the seeds and cover them with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Seed packets usually recommend precise spacing, such as at 2-foot intervals, or you can scatter the seeds and let the plants support each other as they grow. You can always thin them out later, moving the extra plants to another part of the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cosmos
When growing cosmos in pots, make sure the container has bottom drainage holes. Cosmos can't handle overly wet, soggy soil. Plan on growing one cosmos plant per gallon of your container. If growing in pots, do not enrich the soil, it makes the plants grow tall, leggy, and droopy. Also, tall varieties will need staking in containers. At the very least, plan on using at least a heavy, 12-inch diameter container.
Overwintering
Cosmos is an annual. If left outside in frosty temperatures, they will die. However, at the end of the growing season, if you allow the dead flower heads to drop their seeds, cosmos seeds will go dormant and sprout when the soil warms up again in the spring.
If you have a potted cosmos in a container and want to keep your cosmos alive over the winter season, you will need a bright full sun growing lamp for at least 7 hours a day. You will need to snip off any blooms as they form. This plant's life cycle ends with flowering when it drops its seeds for the next growing season.
How to Get Cosmos to Bloom
Cosmos plants need full sun to bloom. Even the hint of shade, can restrict flowering. Also, to encourage more blooms, you need to deadhead the old blooms. For faster blooms, prune between the main stem and a leaf. The lower you cut in the stem, the longer it takes to grow more flowers.
Common Problems With Cosmos
Cosmos are easy to grow and maintain over the growing season. They are usually resistant to disease, and most insects; however, some pests can become a nuisance and affect their growth.3
Wilting or Leaf Discoloration
If your plant has ample water and is not wilting from a lack of hydration, there are two possible causes.
A plant that is wilting with leaf discoloration might have a common fusarium fungal infection.4 If you dig up the plant and notice a pink mass on the roots, then the plant likely has fusarium. The whole plant is beyond help, will die, and should be disposed of to stop the fungus spread.
If you dig up the roots and they look healthy, the plant may have a bacterial wilt infection.5 The bacteria cause the stems to wilt at their base. This plant will die and should be disposed of.
Yellowing Leaves and Leaf Drop
Powdery mildew mainly affects plants in the shade.6 Fungus spores fly through the air and attach to a host plant in a shady spot. It creates a powdery white coating on leaves and causes leaves to yellow and fall off. To prevent powdery mildew, provide your plants good circulation, bright light, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If your plant has fungus, use a horticultural fungicide according to the package instructions.
Flowers Distorting or Stunting in Growth
As a member of the aster family, cosmos can get aster yellows, a disease spread by leafhoppers (a tiny grasshopper-looking insect).7 The leaves will get yellow mottling on the leaves, and the flowers will appear distorted or stunted. Dispose of these plants since there is nothing you can do help them recover.
FAQ
Are cosmos easy to care for?
Cosmos are easy to care for, germinate, and will self-seed for the following growing season.
How fast do cosmos grow?
Cosmos generally take 7 to 21 days to germinate and will flower within 50 to 60 days of germination.
How long can cosmos live?
Cosmos is an annual that germinates, flowers, and drops seed in preparation for the following growing season. Cosmos will languish and eventually die after flowering.
What's the difference between a Cosmos sulphureus and Cosmos bipinnatus?
C. bipinnatus are bushy plants that grow to an average height of about 1 to 4 feet. The flowers come in red, pink, and white. The leaves are spaced apart along the stem and cut into thread-like segments. The outer rays of the flowers surround the yellow-colored, clustered central disc of florets. Meanwhile, C.sulphureus can grow to a height of 2 to 6 feet. The flowers come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. It has hairy stems, and the daisy-like flowers have yellow rays and discs.
Common Name Cosmos, Mexican aster, cut-leaf cosmos
Botanical Name Cosmos sulphureus, Cosmos bipinnatus
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 1-6 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0–6.8 (Acidic)
Bloom Time Summer through fall
Flower Color Golden yellow, white, pink, magenta, orange, yellow, red, chocolate
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area northern South America, Central America, and southern North America
Cosmos Care
Cosmos grow easily in beds and make great cut flowers. When established, the plants can handle drought, poor soil conditions, and general neglect. They even self-sow. This is a truly low-maintenance plant.
While some pests, like aphids, flea beetles, and thrips feed on cosmos, they're easy to control with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Aster yellows, bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew may also affect cosmos.2 Space plants accordingly to ensure good airflow to avoid diseases.
Taller varieties look good in the middle or rear of the border with goat's beard, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Shorter varieties make very colorful, airy edging plants.
WARNING
Cosmos sulphureus is invasive in the southeast United States.1 Check with representatives from your local extension office to learn about any restrictions in your area.
Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall. Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pruning
The only real maintenance cosmos plants need is deadheading which will prolong the flowering season. If you fall behind, shear the plants by about one-third, when most flowers have faded. This kind of pruning produces a second flush of leaves and flowers. By the end of the season, you can cut off the plants at ground level or pull them up, roots and all. However, if you leave the plants in place, they may self-seed for the following growing season.
Propagating Cosmos
Cosmos plants readily self-seed. It's best to propagate these plants after the threat of frost is gone. Although sowing seeds is the best and easiest way to propagate this plant, you can also propagate via stem cutting. When you take stem trimmings, it stimulates more leaf and flower growth. Besides seed, stem cutting is the best way to propagate this plant. Here's how you do it:
You'll need sterile pruning shears or scissors and a pot of sterile, well-draining potting soil.
Fill a small 3-inch container with moistened potting soil. Using a pencil tip, push straight down in the soil about 1 to 2 inches deep, making a shallow hole.
Look for a cosmos shoot that has 3 to 5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut under the last leaf node. At the last leaf node, carefully cut off the leaves, leaving the node intact for new growth.
Bury the cut tip of the stem in the pencil-made hole. Make sure that the last leaf node is above the soil line. Push down the soil around the stem, compacting the soil to keep the stem upright and in place.
Water generously and keep moist. You should notice new leaf growth within three weeks. If you do, you can gently pull the root ball out of the container, Transplant the root ball to its new location.
How to Grow Cosmos From Seeds
Start seeds indoors, four to six weeks before the last frost. Or if you can sow cosmos outdoors directly in the garden well after the threat of frost is gone. Cosmos grow very quickly but can be killed by a late frost, so don't rush it. They typically germinate in 7 to 21 days at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by flowering in about 50 to 60 days.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Plant the seeds and cover them with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Seed packets usually recommend precise spacing, such as at 2-foot intervals, or you can scatter the seeds and let the plants support each other as they grow. You can always thin them out later, moving the extra plants to another part of the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cosmos
When growing cosmos in pots, make sure the container has bottom drainage holes. Cosmos can't handle overly wet, soggy soil. Plan on growing one cosmos plant per gallon of your container. If growing in pots, do not enrich the soil, it makes the plants grow tall, leggy, and droopy. Also, tall varieties will need staking in containers. At the very least, plan on using at least a heavy, 12-inch diameter container.
Overwintering
Cosmos is an annual. If left outside in frosty temperatures, they will die. However, at the end of the growing season, if you allow the dead flower heads to drop their seeds, cosmos seeds will go dormant and sprout when the soil warms up again in the spring.
If you have a potted cosmos in a container and want to keep your cosmos alive over the winter season, you will need a bright full sun growing lamp for at least 7 hours a day. You will need to snip off any blooms as they form. This plant's life cycle ends with flowering when it drops its seeds for the next growing season.
How to Get Cosmos to Bloom
Cosmos plants need full sun to bloom. Even the hint of shade, can restrict flowering. Also, to encourage more blooms, you need to deadhead the old blooms. For faster blooms, prune between the main stem and a leaf. The lower you cut in the stem, the longer it takes to grow more flowers.
Common Problems With Cosmos
Cosmos are easy to grow and maintain over the growing season. They are usually resistant to disease, and most insects; however, some pests can become a nuisance and affect their growth.3
Wilting or Leaf Discoloration
If your plant has ample water and is not wilting from a lack of hydration, there are two possible causes.
A plant that is wilting with leaf discoloration might have a common fusarium fungal infection.4 If you dig up the plant and notice a pink mass on the roots, then the plant likely has fusarium. The whole plant is beyond help, will die, and should be disposed of to stop the fungus spread.
If you dig up the roots and they look healthy, the plant may have a bacterial wilt infection.5 The bacteria cause the stems to wilt at their base. This plant will die and should be disposed of.
Yellowing Leaves and Leaf Drop
Powdery mildew mainly affects plants in the shade.6 Fungus spores fly through the air and attach to a host plant in a shady spot. It creates a powdery white coating on leaves and causes leaves to yellow and fall off. To prevent powdery mildew, provide your plants good circulation, bright light, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If your plant has fungus, use a horticultural fungicide according to the package instructions.
Flowers Distorting or Stunting in Growth
As a member of the aster family, cosmos can get aster yellows, a disease spread by leafhoppers (a tiny grasshopper-looking insect).7 The leaves will get yellow mottling on the leaves, and the flowers will appear distorted or stunted. Dispose of these plants since there is nothing you can do help them recover.
FAQ
Are cosmos easy to care for?
Cosmos are easy to care for, germinate, and will self-seed for the following growing season.
How fast do cosmos grow?
Cosmos generally take 7 to 21 days to germinate and will flower within 50 to 60 days of germination.
How long can cosmos live?
Cosmos is an annual that germinates, flowers, and drops seed in preparation for the following growing season. Cosmos will languish and eventually die after flowering.
What's the difference between a Cosmos sulphureus and Cosmos bipinnatus?
C. bipinnatus are bushy plants that grow to an average height of about 1 to 4 feet. The flowers come in red, pink, and white. The leaves are spaced apart along the stem and cut into thread-like segments. The outer rays of the flowers surround the yellow-colored, clustered central disc of florets. Meanwhile, C.sulphureus can grow to a height of 2 to 6 feet. The flowers come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. It has hairy stems, and the daisy-like flowers have yellow rays and discs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月05日
Unlike most varieties of mint, which grow aggressively and often invasively, Corsican mint is somewhat challenging to grow. It is a low-growing herb, with tiny rounded glossy green leaves on very short stems, barely growing more than a quarter of an inch tall. In the right growing conditions, Corsican mint can be an effective, attractive ground cover. It can also be grown in containers with other herbs or flowers. Native to Corsica , Montecristo, and Sardinia, it has also been naturalized in other parts of Europe, including Portugal and the British Isles.
Corsican mint, also known as Mentha requienii, is perennial in warmer zones, from 7 to 11. It bears very tiny pale purple flowers in summer, somewhat similar in appearance to creeping thyme. Also like creeping thyme, the tiny leaves of this herb make it suitable for growing around stepping stones or walkways where it provides a fresh burst of scent when stepped on. Unlike creeping thyme, which likes full sun, Corsican mint thrives in shady spots. In addition to having a strong mint fragrance, Corsican mint is known to have a strong mint flavor and has traditionally been used to make creme de menthe, a bright green liqueur. It also has traditional medicinal uses for indigestion and as an antiseptic.
The strong scent of Corsican mint makes it a useful companion plant for brassicas, as it repels pests that like to munch on cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower. The smell of mint can also be a deterrent to rodents and planting it near entrances or in containers in the garden can help deter mice and other pests.
In the United States, Corsican mint is considered an invasive species in the southeast where it has naturalized as a perennial. Most gardeners are familiar with the aggressive, invasive qualities of mint plants, but Corsican mint has proved itself to be enough of a nuisance that its cultivation is prohibited in some areas.
Botanical Name Mentha requienii
Common Name Corsican mint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 1/4 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.0 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time June through August
Flower Color Light purple
Hardiness Zones 7 to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Sardinia, Corsica, Italy, France
Toxicity Toxic to dogs in large amounts
Coriscan Mint Care
Corsican mint needs a bit more effort and care than most garden varieties of mint, which are so low care they can become invasive with very little effort. Corsican mint is a good choice for those who like a strongly scented and flavored mint for culinary use. To help control spread grow this, and other mints, in containers. A pot on the patio or outside the kitchen door is also handy for the chef. If you are looking to cover a bare spot in the landscape or an area difficult to maintain such as a slope or bank, go ahead and plant in the ground but keep a close eye on continued spread.
WARNING
Corsican mint is classified as an invasive species in the southeastern part of the United States. Consult with your local extension office to determine if you can plant Corsican mint in your garden.
Light
This mint adapts to a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade. Partial shade may prove to be a better location where summers are hotter.
Soil
Corsican mint grows best in well-drained soil, with some organic matter to hold moisture. It also tolerates acidic soil.
Water
Corsican mint needs ample moisture to thrive, but too much water will lead to root rot. It does require regular watering, however, and is not very drought tolerant, so maintaining this balance can be somewhat tricky. The best approach to seasonal watering is to let the soil surface of the planting area dry out before watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Corsican mint is fairly sensitive to temperature and will only naturalize within the narrow growing zone range of 7 to 11 in the United States. It likes consistent but not constant moisture, and if it gets too wet its leaves may turn into a black and slimy unsightly mess.
Propagating
The easiest way to propagate Corsican mint is by division. In a suitable climate, it will self-seed and continue to spread, and can become invasive. Once established, you can easily divide the plants to share or plant elsewhere.
How to Grow Corsican Mint from Seed
If you can obtain seeds, Corsican mint can be planted indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. If sowing seeds outdoors, soil should have reached a consistent temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Press seeds lightly into the soil surface and mist lightly with water. They should germinate in 7 to 14 days.
Overwintering
This plant is not really suitable for overwintering outdoors if your growing zone is below 7. But you can grow it indoors in containers in the winter time. Give it plenty of indirect light near a sunny window.
Corsican mint, also known as Mentha requienii, is perennial in warmer zones, from 7 to 11. It bears very tiny pale purple flowers in summer, somewhat similar in appearance to creeping thyme. Also like creeping thyme, the tiny leaves of this herb make it suitable for growing around stepping stones or walkways where it provides a fresh burst of scent when stepped on. Unlike creeping thyme, which likes full sun, Corsican mint thrives in shady spots. In addition to having a strong mint fragrance, Corsican mint is known to have a strong mint flavor and has traditionally been used to make creme de menthe, a bright green liqueur. It also has traditional medicinal uses for indigestion and as an antiseptic.
The strong scent of Corsican mint makes it a useful companion plant for brassicas, as it repels pests that like to munch on cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower. The smell of mint can also be a deterrent to rodents and planting it near entrances or in containers in the garden can help deter mice and other pests.
In the United States, Corsican mint is considered an invasive species in the southeast where it has naturalized as a perennial. Most gardeners are familiar with the aggressive, invasive qualities of mint plants, but Corsican mint has proved itself to be enough of a nuisance that its cultivation is prohibited in some areas.
Botanical Name Mentha requienii
Common Name Corsican mint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 1/4 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.0 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time June through August
Flower Color Light purple
Hardiness Zones 7 to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Sardinia, Corsica, Italy, France
Toxicity Toxic to dogs in large amounts
Coriscan Mint Care
Corsican mint needs a bit more effort and care than most garden varieties of mint, which are so low care they can become invasive with very little effort. Corsican mint is a good choice for those who like a strongly scented and flavored mint for culinary use. To help control spread grow this, and other mints, in containers. A pot on the patio or outside the kitchen door is also handy for the chef. If you are looking to cover a bare spot in the landscape or an area difficult to maintain such as a slope or bank, go ahead and plant in the ground but keep a close eye on continued spread.
WARNING
Corsican mint is classified as an invasive species in the southeastern part of the United States. Consult with your local extension office to determine if you can plant Corsican mint in your garden.
Light
This mint adapts to a range of light conditions, from full sun to partial shade. Partial shade may prove to be a better location where summers are hotter.
Soil
Corsican mint grows best in well-drained soil, with some organic matter to hold moisture. It also tolerates acidic soil.
Water
Corsican mint needs ample moisture to thrive, but too much water will lead to root rot. It does require regular watering, however, and is not very drought tolerant, so maintaining this balance can be somewhat tricky. The best approach to seasonal watering is to let the soil surface of the planting area dry out before watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Corsican mint is fairly sensitive to temperature and will only naturalize within the narrow growing zone range of 7 to 11 in the United States. It likes consistent but not constant moisture, and if it gets too wet its leaves may turn into a black and slimy unsightly mess.
Propagating
The easiest way to propagate Corsican mint is by division. In a suitable climate, it will self-seed and continue to spread, and can become invasive. Once established, you can easily divide the plants to share or plant elsewhere.
How to Grow Corsican Mint from Seed
If you can obtain seeds, Corsican mint can be planted indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. If sowing seeds outdoors, soil should have reached a consistent temperature of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Press seeds lightly into the soil surface and mist lightly with water. They should germinate in 7 to 14 days.
Overwintering
This plant is not really suitable for overwintering outdoors if your growing zone is below 7. But you can grow it indoors in containers in the winter time. Give it plenty of indirect light near a sunny window.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月01日
Corn plants (Dracaena deremensis) are quite popular as houseplants thanks to their attractive foliage and hardy nature. They’re easy to grow in containers or in the garden in the right climate. These plants can grow quite tall in the wild, but they stay at a manageable size when kept indoors. They feature rosettes of sword-shaped green leaves that can grow to around 2 feet long. Tiny yellow flowers will bloom periodically, but flowers on indoor plants are rather rare. Spring is the best time for planting, though you can typically pot a nursery plant indoors at any time of year. These plants are fairly slow growers and will naturally lose their lower leaves over time while they send up new ones on top.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月22日
The coral bean shrub (Erythrina herbacea) is easy to grow, grows at a moderate rate, and requires little attention once established. It is attractive and showy with almost year-round interest. The coral bean is adorned with gorgeous ornamental, tubular flowers. In the summer and into the fall, the flowers turn into long pods with brilliant red seeds inside. The foliage of the coral bean is heart-shaped and glossy dark green. The trunk and branches are covered in small curved thorns. The tubular flowers are also highly attractive to hummingbirds drawn to the sweet nectar inside them. Only plant this shrub in the ground in hardiness zone 8 (Pacific Northwest or American South) or higher or else it will die. The best time to plant it is in the spring.
Botanical Name Erythrina herbacea
Common Name Coral bean, red cardinal, cardinal spear, mamou plant
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 8–10 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH 5.4 to 7.6 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 8–11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Coral Bean Care
The coral bean is native to Mexico and parts of the United States. It is a low-maintenance flowering perennial shrub that readily grows in warm-season climates around the world. Once established, the coral bean requires little maintenance. As a result, it makes a great addition to a garden bed or shrub border. The coral bean shrub is also salt-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for gardeners living on coastal landscapes.
For the winter, place the coral bean plants in a greenhouse and plant in late spring or early summer. If left out, the plant will die in hardiness zones cooler than 8, such as in the Northeast.
Light
The coral bean shrub blooms most profusely when grown in a full sun location. However, it can tolerate dappled sun, as it naturally occurs along the edge of woodlands and forests.
Soil
The coral bean is adaptable to a wide range of soil types but appreciates sandy, acidic soil. Ensure that the potting medium is well-draining as the coral bean’s roots cannot tolerate sitting in water.
Water
For the first growing season, water the coral bean once a week to help encourage growth. This shrub does not tolerate "wet feet" and should never be left waterlogged. Once established, the coral bean is considered to be a drought-tolerant shrub and may only require supplemental watering during abnormally long dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
To survive as a perennial, the coral bean requires warm temperatures and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 11. In regions that experience cold winters with freezing temperatures, the coral bean can be grown as an annual.
Fertilizer
Once established, the coral bean shrub does not require regular fertilizing. However, young plants benefit from fertilization in the spring to help boost growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. This shrub also benefits from annual mulching to help retain moisture and protect the sensitive root system from cold temperatures.
Pruning
The coral bean does not require heavy pruning but appreciates light yearly maintenance and general upkeep. Do not prune during the first growing season. In the spring of the second growing season, prune any dead or cold-damaged growth and trim to shape where necessary.
Propagating Coral Bean
You can propagate the coral bean shrub via semi-hardwood cuttings and division. Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken in the late summer or early fall, once the stems are almost fully mature. The shrub can technically be propagated by division of the root ball at any time, but it is best to do so once the coral bean is well established with excess growth that you can easily separate. At the same time, both methods can successfully propagate the coral bean. It is usually most efficient to start with a nursery-grown plant or well-established shrub as propagation success rates are variable.
How to Grow Coral Bean From Seed
Coral bean seeds can be purchased from a nursery or garden center or collected directly from the plant. You can collect the seeds in the late summer or early fall. Be sure to always wear protective gloves when handling coral bean seeds as the seeds are poisonous (primarily if ingested). To increase the germination rate, coral bean seeds benefit from scarification. Plant seeds in the ground after the threat of frost and once the temperatures are consistently warm. If you are planting several shrubs together, ensure the seeds are spaced between 3 to 5 feet apart when sowing.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bean
Coral bean may be grown in a container, usually in the northern states. It is best placed in full sun with southern exposure. Protect it from freezing.
Botanical Name Erythrina herbacea
Common Name Coral bean, red cardinal, cardinal spear, mamou plant
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 8–10 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH 5.4 to 7.6 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 8–11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Coral Bean Care
The coral bean is native to Mexico and parts of the United States. It is a low-maintenance flowering perennial shrub that readily grows in warm-season climates around the world. Once established, the coral bean requires little maintenance. As a result, it makes a great addition to a garden bed or shrub border. The coral bean shrub is also salt-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for gardeners living on coastal landscapes.
For the winter, place the coral bean plants in a greenhouse and plant in late spring or early summer. If left out, the plant will die in hardiness zones cooler than 8, such as in the Northeast.
Light
The coral bean shrub blooms most profusely when grown in a full sun location. However, it can tolerate dappled sun, as it naturally occurs along the edge of woodlands and forests.
Soil
The coral bean is adaptable to a wide range of soil types but appreciates sandy, acidic soil. Ensure that the potting medium is well-draining as the coral bean’s roots cannot tolerate sitting in water.
Water
For the first growing season, water the coral bean once a week to help encourage growth. This shrub does not tolerate "wet feet" and should never be left waterlogged. Once established, the coral bean is considered to be a drought-tolerant shrub and may only require supplemental watering during abnormally long dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
To survive as a perennial, the coral bean requires warm temperatures and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 11. In regions that experience cold winters with freezing temperatures, the coral bean can be grown as an annual.
Fertilizer
Once established, the coral bean shrub does not require regular fertilizing. However, young plants benefit from fertilization in the spring to help boost growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. This shrub also benefits from annual mulching to help retain moisture and protect the sensitive root system from cold temperatures.
Pruning
The coral bean does not require heavy pruning but appreciates light yearly maintenance and general upkeep. Do not prune during the first growing season. In the spring of the second growing season, prune any dead or cold-damaged growth and trim to shape where necessary.
Propagating Coral Bean
You can propagate the coral bean shrub via semi-hardwood cuttings and division. Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken in the late summer or early fall, once the stems are almost fully mature. The shrub can technically be propagated by division of the root ball at any time, but it is best to do so once the coral bean is well established with excess growth that you can easily separate. At the same time, both methods can successfully propagate the coral bean. It is usually most efficient to start with a nursery-grown plant or well-established shrub as propagation success rates are variable.
How to Grow Coral Bean From Seed
Coral bean seeds can be purchased from a nursery or garden center or collected directly from the plant. You can collect the seeds in the late summer or early fall. Be sure to always wear protective gloves when handling coral bean seeds as the seeds are poisonous (primarily if ingested). To increase the germination rate, coral bean seeds benefit from scarification. Plant seeds in the ground after the threat of frost and once the temperatures are consistently warm. If you are planting several shrubs together, ensure the seeds are spaced between 3 to 5 feet apart when sowing.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bean
Coral bean may be grown in a container, usually in the northern states. It is best placed in full sun with southern exposure. Protect it from freezing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月20日
Coral aloe (Aloe striata) is a strikingly beautiful, hardy and easy-to-grow succulent.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月18日
The namers of this coneflower cultivar got it right: The chief selling point of 'Firebird' coneflower is its fiery flower color. Its bright orange color makes it one of the best perennials to grow in full sun. The genus name Echinacea derives from the Greek word for "hedgehog," and its flowers' cones look like a network of tiny needles, much like the animal. The flower has a "shuttlecock" shape like a birdie in badminton. The leaves of this perennial are dark green and have a clumping habit. When the flowers first form, they, too, are green. The Firebird is fast-growing, germinating in about three weeks. However, it's a biennial, usually only blooming in its second growth year. It's best to plant it in the spring or fall.
Botanical Name Echinacea 'Firebird'
Common Name Coneflower, echinacea
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 36 inches in height with a 36-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-drained, sandy, clay, loamy
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.0
Bloom Time June through October
Flower Color Reddish-orange
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Fireball Coneflower Care
This orange coneflower cultivar looks much like a type of wildflower and is used in a meadow planting. As it is drought resistant, it is often used in rock gardens and is useful for xeriscaping. The plant is valued as a long-blooming perennial and works well with other sun-loving perennials. Its fiery color will attract hummingbirds and it's also a butterfly and rabbit magnet. It is deer resistant but may attract slugs, snails, and cutworms. Neem oil or another organic insecticide soap should keep the bugs at bay.
Light
Coneflowers of all kinds thrive in full or partial sun, tolerating the heat without a problem. These plants need at least five hours of sunlight a day.
Water
This plant is drought tolerant. It only needs about an inch of water every week.
Soil
Coneflowers prefer well-draining fertile soil. However, it's not a fussy plant and can still live in poor soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Most coneflowers are cold-hardy in zones 3 to 8, including the Firebird variety. This means that they can be grown in most areas of the USA. They love the hot, dry heat of summer and can handle some humidity but do not like moist, soggy soil.
Fertilizer
At planting, you can give it fertilizer or humus-rich compost but go light with it. You may end up with lush foliage but fewer flowers.
Pruning
Gardeners may deadhead the flowers for aesthetic reasons; it doesn't promote reblooming (they will rebloom on their own).
Propagating Firebird Coneflowers
If your plant looks to be losing its vitality or overcrowding in its container or spot, divide the plants in the spring. These plants can grow from seeds, division of existing plants, or root cuttings.
How to Grow Firebird Coneflowers From Seed
These plants propagate easily from seeds. They prefer cold stratification (or storing the seeds just below freezing for two to three months, such as a fridge or freezer door). Warming up triggers the growth cycle for the seeds. Plant the seeds in the spring well after the last frost with temperatures in the 60s. Plant the seeds 1 to 3 feet apart. Germination begins after about 4 weeks. After 12 weeks, you should start seeing several sets of leaves. Unfortunately, coneflowers usually do not flower the first growing season.
Potting and Repotting Firebird Coneflowers
Firebird coneflower is a good selection for planting in outdoor pots and containers. It can grow about 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. As far as the type of container, it makes a great thriller centerpiece. Plant it near the center of the pot surrounded by smaller plants that are "fillers" to fill in the spaces and "spillers" that spill over the pot. When growing plants in outdoor containers and baskets, they often require more frequent waterings than they would in the yard or garden.
Overwintering
You may need to give the plant some protection in the first winter in your garden, but after this, they are tough and rugged.
Botanical Name Echinacea 'Firebird'
Common Name Coneflower, echinacea
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 36 inches in height with a 36-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-drained, sandy, clay, loamy
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.0
Bloom Time June through October
Flower Color Reddish-orange
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Fireball Coneflower Care
This orange coneflower cultivar looks much like a type of wildflower and is used in a meadow planting. As it is drought resistant, it is often used in rock gardens and is useful for xeriscaping. The plant is valued as a long-blooming perennial and works well with other sun-loving perennials. Its fiery color will attract hummingbirds and it's also a butterfly and rabbit magnet. It is deer resistant but may attract slugs, snails, and cutworms. Neem oil or another organic insecticide soap should keep the bugs at bay.
Light
Coneflowers of all kinds thrive in full or partial sun, tolerating the heat without a problem. These plants need at least five hours of sunlight a day.
Water
This plant is drought tolerant. It only needs about an inch of water every week.
Soil
Coneflowers prefer well-draining fertile soil. However, it's not a fussy plant and can still live in poor soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Most coneflowers are cold-hardy in zones 3 to 8, including the Firebird variety. This means that they can be grown in most areas of the USA. They love the hot, dry heat of summer and can handle some humidity but do not like moist, soggy soil.
Fertilizer
At planting, you can give it fertilizer or humus-rich compost but go light with it. You may end up with lush foliage but fewer flowers.
Pruning
Gardeners may deadhead the flowers for aesthetic reasons; it doesn't promote reblooming (they will rebloom on their own).
Propagating Firebird Coneflowers
If your plant looks to be losing its vitality or overcrowding in its container or spot, divide the plants in the spring. These plants can grow from seeds, division of existing plants, or root cuttings.
How to Grow Firebird Coneflowers From Seed
These plants propagate easily from seeds. They prefer cold stratification (or storing the seeds just below freezing for two to three months, such as a fridge or freezer door). Warming up triggers the growth cycle for the seeds. Plant the seeds in the spring well after the last frost with temperatures in the 60s. Plant the seeds 1 to 3 feet apart. Germination begins after about 4 weeks. After 12 weeks, you should start seeing several sets of leaves. Unfortunately, coneflowers usually do not flower the first growing season.
Potting and Repotting Firebird Coneflowers
Firebird coneflower is a good selection for planting in outdoor pots and containers. It can grow about 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. As far as the type of container, it makes a great thriller centerpiece. Plant it near the center of the pot surrounded by smaller plants that are "fillers" to fill in the spaces and "spillers" that spill over the pot. When growing plants in outdoor containers and baskets, they often require more frequent waterings than they would in the yard or garden.
Overwintering
You may need to give the plant some protection in the first winter in your garden, but after this, they are tough and rugged.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月05日
If you are looking for a flower to add to a charming cottage garden, look no further than the common hollyhock (Alcea rosea). This traditional garden favorite can grow up to 8 feet tall with large, heart-shaped foliage and long-blooming ornamental flowers. This biennial herbaceous plant adds plenty of interest, and readily self-seeds to provide new growth year after year. You can plant hollyhocks in late summer when growing from seed, and they will bloom the following year.
Botanical Name Alcea rosea
Common Name Common hollyhock
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Biennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, Pink, Red, Yellow, Lavender
Hardiness Zones 2-10, USA
Native Area Turkey
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Common Hollyhock Care
These adaptable plants can grow in a range of conditions but aren't fans of wet winter soils. Hollyhocks grow on strong, sturdy stems which will stay upright without staking when planted in a sheltered spot. With large, showy blooms in a range of colors, this old-fashioned favorite is eye-catching when planted at the back of a border or along a fence or wall. Space your common hollyhocks far enough apart when planting to promote good air circulation and reduce problems with the fungal disease rust. Positioning them about 18 inches apart should be adequate.
Light
Although common hollyhocks can tolerate partial shade, they prefer a warm, full sun position. Too much shade will result in these tall plants flopping over, but excessively hot, dry weather can cause lower leaves to wither and die.
Soil
Part of the appeal of common hollyhocks is their ability to succeed in most soils. They prefer fertile, heavy soils, but, providing you enrich poor soils with organic matter, your plants should still do well.
Water
Common hollyhocks prefer evenly moist conditions, but wet winter soils are problematic. If your soil is not draining well during a wet winter, you could amend it with compost to improve air circulation and drainage. Water the roots and not the leaves of this plant, as wet leaves promote problems with the fungal diseases these plants are susceptible to.
Temperature and Humidity
Hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, hollyhocks are pretty cold tolerant. However, early frosts can damage the flowers. Ideal daytime temperatures for flowering plants are around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Excessive humidity can result in problems with the fungal disease hollyhock rust.
Fertilizer
In terms of maintenance, one of the most important considerations for common hollyhocks is their nutrient levels. These plants love fertile conditions and are heavy feeders. Adding organic matter to your soil in the spring and applying an organic flower fertilizer or fish emulsion that is high in nitrogen every few weeks during the bloom period will result in bigger flowers and healthier foliage. Poor nutrient levels can result in yellowing of the plant's leaves and disappointing blooms.
Propagating Common Hollyhock
You can propagate common hollyhocks through division in the fall or spring when the plants are not flowering. Take root cuttings in winter (around Decembe, and you can propagate basal cuttings at any time of the year. Make sure to select rust-free plants.
How to Grow Common Hollyhock From Seed
Common hollyhocks are easy to grow from seeds. Sow seeds around late spring or late summer. The ideal temperature for germination is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. After danger of frost, direct sow in the garden bed about 1/4 inch deep and 18 to 20 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. If you plan to start your seeds in pots, start about 2 weeks prior to the last frost. Select deep pots and transplant outdoors as soon as true leaves emerge. Hollyhocks have a deep taproot which, once established, may not transplant well. Regardless of where you start your hollyhock seeds, be patient: they typically take around two weeks to germinate.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The fungal disease rust can be a major problem for the foliage and it can quickly spread resulting in premature leaf drop and stunted growth. Removing the leaves on the lower part of the plant stem, cutting the plants back in the fall, and promptly removing the debris will help to minimize fungus problems and spread.
You might also find that Japanese beetles and spider mites are attracted to your common hollyhock, and young growth tends to be a tasty treat for slugs.
How to Get Common Hollyhocks to Bloom
The flowers of the common hollyhock are large (around 4 to 5 inches in diameter), face outwards on the long central stem, and come in various colors, including white, pink, red, yellow, and lavender. Some say the flowers resemble those of opium poppies (Papaver somniferum).
Although these plants are typically grown as biennials, meaning there will only be one flowering season, they have a long bloom period, lasting from mid-summer to early fall. A fertile soil with lots of nutrients, consistent moisture, and deadheading wilted blooms will encourage abundant, large, healthy blooms.
FAQ
Are common hollyhocks easy to grow?
Although the common hollyhock grows from seed easily, they need the right amount of nutrients, spacing, and moisture levels to encourage healthy blooms and minimize problems with the fungal disease rust.
How long can common hollyhocks live?
This species is a short-lived perennial that is typically grown as a biennial. This means the plant takes two years to complete it's life cycle. Look for a leafy rosette the first year, followed by a sturdy central stock with blooms the second year. With the right care and conditions, you may get an additional year of flowering from your common hollyhock.
Where can I grow common hollyhock in my garden?
These tall cottage garden favorites are well suited to be grown against walls or fences or as a stunning backdrop in beds and borders.
Botanical Name Alcea rosea
Common Name Common hollyhock
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Biennial, Herbaceous
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, Pink, Red, Yellow, Lavender
Hardiness Zones 2-10, USA
Native Area Turkey
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Common Hollyhock Care
These adaptable plants can grow in a range of conditions but aren't fans of wet winter soils. Hollyhocks grow on strong, sturdy stems which will stay upright without staking when planted in a sheltered spot. With large, showy blooms in a range of colors, this old-fashioned favorite is eye-catching when planted at the back of a border or along a fence or wall. Space your common hollyhocks far enough apart when planting to promote good air circulation and reduce problems with the fungal disease rust. Positioning them about 18 inches apart should be adequate.
Light
Although common hollyhocks can tolerate partial shade, they prefer a warm, full sun position. Too much shade will result in these tall plants flopping over, but excessively hot, dry weather can cause lower leaves to wither and die.
Soil
Part of the appeal of common hollyhocks is their ability to succeed in most soils. They prefer fertile, heavy soils, but, providing you enrich poor soils with organic matter, your plants should still do well.
Water
Common hollyhocks prefer evenly moist conditions, but wet winter soils are problematic. If your soil is not draining well during a wet winter, you could amend it with compost to improve air circulation and drainage. Water the roots and not the leaves of this plant, as wet leaves promote problems with the fungal diseases these plants are susceptible to.
Temperature and Humidity
Hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, hollyhocks are pretty cold tolerant. However, early frosts can damage the flowers. Ideal daytime temperatures for flowering plants are around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Excessive humidity can result in problems with the fungal disease hollyhock rust.
Fertilizer
In terms of maintenance, one of the most important considerations for common hollyhocks is their nutrient levels. These plants love fertile conditions and are heavy feeders. Adding organic matter to your soil in the spring and applying an organic flower fertilizer or fish emulsion that is high in nitrogen every few weeks during the bloom period will result in bigger flowers and healthier foliage. Poor nutrient levels can result in yellowing of the plant's leaves and disappointing blooms.
Propagating Common Hollyhock
You can propagate common hollyhocks through division in the fall or spring when the plants are not flowering. Take root cuttings in winter (around Decembe, and you can propagate basal cuttings at any time of the year. Make sure to select rust-free plants.
How to Grow Common Hollyhock From Seed
Common hollyhocks are easy to grow from seeds. Sow seeds around late spring or late summer. The ideal temperature for germination is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. After danger of frost, direct sow in the garden bed about 1/4 inch deep and 18 to 20 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. If you plan to start your seeds in pots, start about 2 weeks prior to the last frost. Select deep pots and transplant outdoors as soon as true leaves emerge. Hollyhocks have a deep taproot which, once established, may not transplant well. Regardless of where you start your hollyhock seeds, be patient: they typically take around two weeks to germinate.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
The fungal disease rust can be a major problem for the foliage and it can quickly spread resulting in premature leaf drop and stunted growth. Removing the leaves on the lower part of the plant stem, cutting the plants back in the fall, and promptly removing the debris will help to minimize fungus problems and spread.
You might also find that Japanese beetles and spider mites are attracted to your common hollyhock, and young growth tends to be a tasty treat for slugs.
How to Get Common Hollyhocks to Bloom
The flowers of the common hollyhock are large (around 4 to 5 inches in diameter), face outwards on the long central stem, and come in various colors, including white, pink, red, yellow, and lavender. Some say the flowers resemble those of opium poppies (Papaver somniferum).
Although these plants are typically grown as biennials, meaning there will only be one flowering season, they have a long bloom period, lasting from mid-summer to early fall. A fertile soil with lots of nutrients, consistent moisture, and deadheading wilted blooms will encourage abundant, large, healthy blooms.
FAQ
Are common hollyhocks easy to grow?
Although the common hollyhock grows from seed easily, they need the right amount of nutrients, spacing, and moisture levels to encourage healthy blooms and minimize problems with the fungal disease rust.
How long can common hollyhocks live?
This species is a short-lived perennial that is typically grown as a biennial. This means the plant takes two years to complete it's life cycle. Look for a leafy rosette the first year, followed by a sturdy central stock with blooms the second year. With the right care and conditions, you may get an additional year of flowering from your common hollyhock.
Where can I grow common hollyhock in my garden?
These tall cottage garden favorites are well suited to be grown against walls or fences or as a stunning backdrop in beds and borders.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月09日
Red Campion (Silene dioica) is an easy-to-grow herbaceous perennial. A native to Europe, and viewed as a weed in many native areas, this plant's commonly known cultivar in the United States is Clifford Moor1, although other varieties of Silene, such as Silene acaulis, Silene stellata, Silene caroliniana, and Silene coronaria, thrive throughout the U.S.
Red Campion is identifiable by its star-shaped, pink-red flowers and green and white variegated leaves. The plant is drought-tolerant, shade-loving, and grows approximately 24 inches tall with a three-foot spread.
This flower is a popular inclusion in the "spiller-filler-thriller" style of potted plant design, as the spiller feature. It also fares well when grown in clumps, as a border plant in rock gardens, or in meadow and cottage garden settings. Red campion is also known to be attractive to pollinators. When it is in bloom from May through July, in most zones, you will see bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds drawn to it.
Botanical Name Silene dioica
Common Name Clifford Moor, Variegated Catchfly, Morning Campion
Plant Type Herbaceous evergreen perennial
Mature Size Up to 24" high, 3' wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Clay, Loam, Sand
Soil pH 7-10
Bloom Time Late spring through early summer
Flower Color Pink-red
Hardiness Zones 5-8 USDA
Native Area Europe, United Kingdom
Red Campion Care
The first decision to be made is whether to grow Silene in the ground or as a potted plant. Campion has showcasing variability and can highlight the garden in pots or as an edging feature.
This is not a fickle plant and will grow well in drought and low-watering conditions, in a variety of soil types. Campion thrives in full sun to partial shade and is low maintenance with seasonal fertilization and minimal pruning.
The cultivated Clifford Moor variety of the Silene dioica is not considered invasive, however, the original species from Europe is categorized as invasive in some areas of the U.S. Check with your local Extension office to ensure the variety you select is approved. Just to be sure, it is always a good idea to plant it in an area where it won't negatively impact native plant habitats.
Light
Red campion varieties flourish in full to partial sun. When selecting placement locations, focus on an area with southern exposure where the plant can receive at least six hours of sunlight.
If you only have a partial shade location, though, not to worry. This plant will still grow in a more shady spot. In its native habitat, red campion is associated with growing along semi-shaded woodland edges and hedgerows.
Soil
Red campion grows best in dryer sandy and gravel-laden soils and it won't do well in heavy clay. While the plants prefer moisture, the soil must have excellent drainage. They can thrive in a range of soil pH levels. Once the plant has been established in the soil, it is best to leave it alone.
Water
Silene dioica is drought-tolerant but does prefer moist soil. However, it can succumb to root rot if left in standing water, so care needs to be taken not to over-water. This plant is a perfect addition to a xeriscape landscape due to its versatility for water needs.
Temperature and Humidity
Red campion is hardy in zones 5 through 8. It can tolerate cold but when temperatures are excessively hot this plant will need some type of shade and soil moisture.
Fertilizer
This plant can grow in a wide variety of soils and does not need any type of additional fertilizer to help it grow.
Pruning
Red Campion doesn't need much pruning. To keep it blooming, deadhead on a regular basis. Once this plant stops blooming gardeners can decide if they want to prune these evergreens down to the base.
Growing Red Campion From Seeds
Sow seeds six to 20 inches apart, and lightly cover with soil. If conditions are right, you should see good success as red campion germinates easily from seeds.
If started indoors, plant Red campion seedlings after the threat of frost has passed in early spring for late spring to summer blooms or in late autumn for early spring blooms. Dig for width, not depth, since this plant will spread and clump as it grows. Plant so the crown is even with the soil but do not cover the crown.
Red Campion is identifiable by its star-shaped, pink-red flowers and green and white variegated leaves. The plant is drought-tolerant, shade-loving, and grows approximately 24 inches tall with a three-foot spread.
This flower is a popular inclusion in the "spiller-filler-thriller" style of potted plant design, as the spiller feature. It also fares well when grown in clumps, as a border plant in rock gardens, or in meadow and cottage garden settings. Red campion is also known to be attractive to pollinators. When it is in bloom from May through July, in most zones, you will see bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds drawn to it.
Botanical Name Silene dioica
Common Name Clifford Moor, Variegated Catchfly, Morning Campion
Plant Type Herbaceous evergreen perennial
Mature Size Up to 24" high, 3' wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Clay, Loam, Sand
Soil pH 7-10
Bloom Time Late spring through early summer
Flower Color Pink-red
Hardiness Zones 5-8 USDA
Native Area Europe, United Kingdom
Red Campion Care
The first decision to be made is whether to grow Silene in the ground or as a potted plant. Campion has showcasing variability and can highlight the garden in pots or as an edging feature.
This is not a fickle plant and will grow well in drought and low-watering conditions, in a variety of soil types. Campion thrives in full sun to partial shade and is low maintenance with seasonal fertilization and minimal pruning.
The cultivated Clifford Moor variety of the Silene dioica is not considered invasive, however, the original species from Europe is categorized as invasive in some areas of the U.S. Check with your local Extension office to ensure the variety you select is approved. Just to be sure, it is always a good idea to plant it in an area where it won't negatively impact native plant habitats.
Light
Red campion varieties flourish in full to partial sun. When selecting placement locations, focus on an area with southern exposure where the plant can receive at least six hours of sunlight.
If you only have a partial shade location, though, not to worry. This plant will still grow in a more shady spot. In its native habitat, red campion is associated with growing along semi-shaded woodland edges and hedgerows.
Soil
Red campion grows best in dryer sandy and gravel-laden soils and it won't do well in heavy clay. While the plants prefer moisture, the soil must have excellent drainage. They can thrive in a range of soil pH levels. Once the plant has been established in the soil, it is best to leave it alone.
Water
Silene dioica is drought-tolerant but does prefer moist soil. However, it can succumb to root rot if left in standing water, so care needs to be taken not to over-water. This plant is a perfect addition to a xeriscape landscape due to its versatility for water needs.
Temperature and Humidity
Red campion is hardy in zones 5 through 8. It can tolerate cold but when temperatures are excessively hot this plant will need some type of shade and soil moisture.
Fertilizer
This plant can grow in a wide variety of soils and does not need any type of additional fertilizer to help it grow.
Pruning
Red Campion doesn't need much pruning. To keep it blooming, deadhead on a regular basis. Once this plant stops blooming gardeners can decide if they want to prune these evergreens down to the base.
Growing Red Campion From Seeds
Sow seeds six to 20 inches apart, and lightly cover with soil. If conditions are right, you should see good success as red campion germinates easily from seeds.
If started indoors, plant Red campion seedlings after the threat of frost has passed in early spring for late spring to summer blooms or in late autumn for early spring blooms. Dig for width, not depth, since this plant will spread and clump as it grows. Plant so the crown is even with the soil but do not cover the crown.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月05日
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a great addition to any herb garden. Not only is it a relatively easy plant to grow, but it actually boasts two cooking uses for the price of one. The name cilantro refers to the plant's thin, green stems and flat, lacy leaves, which are best eaten fresh. Its other common name, coriander, refers to the seeds, which are used as a common cooking spice, especially in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisines. Cilantro is best planted in the early spring but also can be started in fall. It grows quickly, often yielding its first harvest of leaves within 30 days. Its seeds will be ready for harvest closer to three months from planting.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月09日
A larger-than-life succulent, the century plant is a visually stunning agave species. It can grow up to ten feet wide and six feet tall with fleshy, arching leaves in grey-green or variegated colors. To protect itself, the leaves are tipped with sharp spines that ward off intruding pets or people. The sap of the plant is considered mildly toxic1.
Also known as the American aloe, the plant’s name is a misnomer. It was once believed that it took 100 years for this plant to bloom, but we now know that it blooms after two or three decades of storing up energy to send up a single stalk, topped with an inflorescence of small yellow blossoms. A monocarpic species, the flower display is the plant’s final act before dying.
Common Name Century plant, American aloe, maguey
Botanical Name Agave americana
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Three to six feet tall, six to ten feet wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 8-11, USDA
Native Area Texas and Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Century Plant Care
Hands-off care and patience are required for growing a century plant. These large agaves must have well-draining soil and will benefit from intermittent watering, depending on climate conditions. As you wait a decade (and likely more) for the flower stalk to emerge, you can expect these plants to produce plenty of offshoots, which can be left to grow as part of a large colony or transplanted to new locations. Be vigilant towards the appearance of agave snout weevils, which can damage a plant beyond recovery.
Light
Like other agave species, century plants do best with full sun, so plant them in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day. However, it is possible to grow these plants in light shade if your site doesn’t meet the requirements for full sun.
Soil
These plants do best in dry, sandy soil. They can tolerate a range of other soil types, including clay soil, but well-draining soil is an absolute requirement. Century plants in overly moist soil can develop root rot.
Water
The long and fleshy leaves of the century plant are designed to store water during times of drought, so don’t hover around these plants with a watering can. However, these plants appreciate regular watering during the spring and summer growing season. Water deeply but then allow the soil to dry thoroughly in between watering sessions; this might be an interval of a week to a month, depending on climate conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The century plant is native to Mexico and Texas, providing an insight into the plant’s preferred temperature and humidity conditions. Warm temperatures with low humidity levels make for ideal climate conditions. Take note that the century plant is hardy to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but is likely to suffer damage from frost.
Fertilizer
It’s typically not necessary to fertilize a century plant. They do fine in sandy, nutrient-sparse soil. Like other agave species, these plants die after blooming so feeding with a fertilizer and accelerating the process only serves to shorten the plant’s lifecycle.
Types of Century Plants
‘Marginata’: Also sometimes known as a variegated century plant, this variety has cream-to-yellow margins along each side of the leaves, providing visual interest.
‘Mediopicta alba’: A slightly smaller cultivar variety, ‘Mediopicta alba’ features gray-green leaf margins with a single central stripe of creamy-white. It typically matures to a height of three to four feet, with a four- to six-foot spread.
‘Mediopicta aurea’: Similar to other mediopicta varieties of Agave americana, this cultivar matures to a smaller size at six feet tall and wide. It features variegated leaves with a bright yellow central stripe. It is generally also considered to fare better in light shade than some other agave varieties.
Propagating Century Plants
Like other agave species, century plants are most easily propagated from offsets. Also known as pups, these clones of the parent plant can easily be separated and planted independently. You won’t need many tools, because you can pull away the pups from the parent plant by hand in most cases. However, a small trowel can be useful and gloves will protect your hands from the spines of the parent plant. You will want to have a container or garden site ready with well-draining soil. Then, follow these steps to propagate:
After protecting your hands and arms, locate a pup at the base of the parent plant. In some cases, there can be a few pups growing close together. Use the trowel to gently loosen and separate the pups.
Grasp the pup at the base and wiggle it loose from the parent plant and soil. If necessary, use the trowel to separate the plant from the soil and roots attached to the parent plant. Leave a portion of the stem that connected to the offset to the parent, along with the pup’s root bundle. A bare base on the pup will be a challenging start to generating root growth.
Pups can be planted directly in the ground or in a container. In both instances, be sure to use well-draining soil.
How to Grow Century Plants From Seed
Growing a century plant from seed is fairly uncommon because the plant only flowers once in its lifetime only after several decades of growth. The much more common way to propagate a century plant is from offshoots, which it will regularly produce throughout its lifetime.
Potting and Repotting Century Plants
Century plants can be grown in pots, but keep in mind that these plants will mature to a very large size. Some gardeners choose to keep them in pots until the size of the plant (and its spiky leaves) makes it more practical to plant it in a permanent location in the ground.
If you choose to plant Agave americana in a container, choose a large pot and soil that offers excellent drainage. A combination of soil materials, such as an even mixture of compost, potting soil, and gravel or sand, is a good blend. You could also use a pre-mixed blend of succulent potting soil.
Fortunately, century plants are relatively slow-growing. You likely will only need to repot the plant every other year or so. When it's time to replant, wear protective gear like gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and pants to protect your skin from sharp spines. Replace the potting soil with a fresh mixture and choose a larger pot that will allow for the continued growth of your century plant.
Overwintering
The century plant is not frost tolerant, so it must be brought indoors to survive winter weather outside of its growing zones. If you have cold but relatively dry winters, you can overwinter a mature agave plant by providing it with a measure of protection from the elements. Plant it in a location that is well-draining and sheltered from northern exposures. Another option is to situate the plant next to a large rock, which will radiate heat after the sun goes down. If overnight temperatures reach the lower limit of this plant’s tolerance, cover it with a cotton sheet for additional protection.
How to Get Century Plants to Bloom
The most challenging part of getting a century plant to bloom is waiting for it to happen. In most cases, it will take 20 to 30 years before the plant sends up a single branched stalk with blossoms, reaching 20 feet or more in height. Fertilized or rapidly maturing plants might blossom in as little as ten years, but this is the exception rather than the rule. These plants only bloom once in their lifecycle, after which the plant dies.
After the century plant blooms, the leaves will collapse and the parent plant will die. However, because these plants are prolific producers of pups, a colony of offshoots will continue to thrive in the location.
Common Problems With Century Plants
The century plant is a healthy, vigorous plant that grows well when provided with the right growing conditions. However, it can face challenges in overly-moist conditions and gardeners must be vigilant in warding off the plant’s primary nemesis: the agave snout weevil.
Wilting or discolored leaves
If the leaves of the century plant become squishy, wilted, or discolored, this is a likely indicator of the most common problem to affect century plants: root rot, which is caused by overly moist soil conditions due to excess rainfall or watering. If the plant is manageable in size to dig out of the ground, you can examine the roots and cut away any black, slimy parts. Treat the remaining roots with a copper fungicide. Replant it in a drier location or amend the soil to improve drainage, perhaps with pumice, gravel, or sand.
Weak or foul-smelling plant
Typically, the large-growing century plant is steady and won’t easily be budged from side-to-side. However, if you notice that your plant is tilting or leaning or if a foul smell is coming from the plant, these are indications of an agave snout weevil infestation. These species of weevil feasts on large agave species, like the century plant. They weaken the plant by burrowing into the leaves to lay eggs. Once hatched, the larvae feed on the plant’s tissue. Compounding the problem, bacteria enters the plant through the holes left by the weevil and the plant begins to decay, resulting in the foul smell. Once the visible signs of an agave snout weevil infestation are present, it’s often too late to save the plant. The best option is to protect century plants from weevils and other plants through a regular application of neem oil or other insecticide.
FAQ
Do century plants live for 100 years?
No. Despite the name, these plants have a lifespan of 25 to 30 years on average.
When does a century plant bloom?
A century plant will bloom once in its lifetime, usually between 25 and 30 years. Well-fertilized plants may bloom as soon as ten years, but most people avoid speeding up the blooming process, because the plant dies soon after blooming.
Are century plants easy to take care of?
These plants don't require regular maintenance and will grow with little hands-on care. It is important that they have well-draining soil and don’t receive too much moisture.
Also known as the American aloe, the plant’s name is a misnomer. It was once believed that it took 100 years for this plant to bloom, but we now know that it blooms after two or three decades of storing up energy to send up a single stalk, topped with an inflorescence of small yellow blossoms. A monocarpic species, the flower display is the plant’s final act before dying.
Common Name Century plant, American aloe, maguey
Botanical Name Agave americana
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Three to six feet tall, six to ten feet wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 8-11, USDA
Native Area Texas and Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Century Plant Care
Hands-off care and patience are required for growing a century plant. These large agaves must have well-draining soil and will benefit from intermittent watering, depending on climate conditions. As you wait a decade (and likely more) for the flower stalk to emerge, you can expect these plants to produce plenty of offshoots, which can be left to grow as part of a large colony or transplanted to new locations. Be vigilant towards the appearance of agave snout weevils, which can damage a plant beyond recovery.
Light
Like other agave species, century plants do best with full sun, so plant them in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day. However, it is possible to grow these plants in light shade if your site doesn’t meet the requirements for full sun.
Soil
These plants do best in dry, sandy soil. They can tolerate a range of other soil types, including clay soil, but well-draining soil is an absolute requirement. Century plants in overly moist soil can develop root rot.
Water
The long and fleshy leaves of the century plant are designed to store water during times of drought, so don’t hover around these plants with a watering can. However, these plants appreciate regular watering during the spring and summer growing season. Water deeply but then allow the soil to dry thoroughly in between watering sessions; this might be an interval of a week to a month, depending on climate conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The century plant is native to Mexico and Texas, providing an insight into the plant’s preferred temperature and humidity conditions. Warm temperatures with low humidity levels make for ideal climate conditions. Take note that the century plant is hardy to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but is likely to suffer damage from frost.
Fertilizer
It’s typically not necessary to fertilize a century plant. They do fine in sandy, nutrient-sparse soil. Like other agave species, these plants die after blooming so feeding with a fertilizer and accelerating the process only serves to shorten the plant’s lifecycle.
Types of Century Plants
‘Marginata’: Also sometimes known as a variegated century plant, this variety has cream-to-yellow margins along each side of the leaves, providing visual interest.
‘Mediopicta alba’: A slightly smaller cultivar variety, ‘Mediopicta alba’ features gray-green leaf margins with a single central stripe of creamy-white. It typically matures to a height of three to four feet, with a four- to six-foot spread.
‘Mediopicta aurea’: Similar to other mediopicta varieties of Agave americana, this cultivar matures to a smaller size at six feet tall and wide. It features variegated leaves with a bright yellow central stripe. It is generally also considered to fare better in light shade than some other agave varieties.
Propagating Century Plants
Like other agave species, century plants are most easily propagated from offsets. Also known as pups, these clones of the parent plant can easily be separated and planted independently. You won’t need many tools, because you can pull away the pups from the parent plant by hand in most cases. However, a small trowel can be useful and gloves will protect your hands from the spines of the parent plant. You will want to have a container or garden site ready with well-draining soil. Then, follow these steps to propagate:
After protecting your hands and arms, locate a pup at the base of the parent plant. In some cases, there can be a few pups growing close together. Use the trowel to gently loosen and separate the pups.
Grasp the pup at the base and wiggle it loose from the parent plant and soil. If necessary, use the trowel to separate the plant from the soil and roots attached to the parent plant. Leave a portion of the stem that connected to the offset to the parent, along with the pup’s root bundle. A bare base on the pup will be a challenging start to generating root growth.
Pups can be planted directly in the ground or in a container. In both instances, be sure to use well-draining soil.
How to Grow Century Plants From Seed
Growing a century plant from seed is fairly uncommon because the plant only flowers once in its lifetime only after several decades of growth. The much more common way to propagate a century plant is from offshoots, which it will regularly produce throughout its lifetime.
Potting and Repotting Century Plants
Century plants can be grown in pots, but keep in mind that these plants will mature to a very large size. Some gardeners choose to keep them in pots until the size of the plant (and its spiky leaves) makes it more practical to plant it in a permanent location in the ground.
If you choose to plant Agave americana in a container, choose a large pot and soil that offers excellent drainage. A combination of soil materials, such as an even mixture of compost, potting soil, and gravel or sand, is a good blend. You could also use a pre-mixed blend of succulent potting soil.
Fortunately, century plants are relatively slow-growing. You likely will only need to repot the plant every other year or so. When it's time to replant, wear protective gear like gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and pants to protect your skin from sharp spines. Replace the potting soil with a fresh mixture and choose a larger pot that will allow for the continued growth of your century plant.
Overwintering
The century plant is not frost tolerant, so it must be brought indoors to survive winter weather outside of its growing zones. If you have cold but relatively dry winters, you can overwinter a mature agave plant by providing it with a measure of protection from the elements. Plant it in a location that is well-draining and sheltered from northern exposures. Another option is to situate the plant next to a large rock, which will radiate heat after the sun goes down. If overnight temperatures reach the lower limit of this plant’s tolerance, cover it with a cotton sheet for additional protection.
How to Get Century Plants to Bloom
The most challenging part of getting a century plant to bloom is waiting for it to happen. In most cases, it will take 20 to 30 years before the plant sends up a single branched stalk with blossoms, reaching 20 feet or more in height. Fertilized or rapidly maturing plants might blossom in as little as ten years, but this is the exception rather than the rule. These plants only bloom once in their lifecycle, after which the plant dies.
After the century plant blooms, the leaves will collapse and the parent plant will die. However, because these plants are prolific producers of pups, a colony of offshoots will continue to thrive in the location.
Common Problems With Century Plants
The century plant is a healthy, vigorous plant that grows well when provided with the right growing conditions. However, it can face challenges in overly-moist conditions and gardeners must be vigilant in warding off the plant’s primary nemesis: the agave snout weevil.
Wilting or discolored leaves
If the leaves of the century plant become squishy, wilted, or discolored, this is a likely indicator of the most common problem to affect century plants: root rot, which is caused by overly moist soil conditions due to excess rainfall or watering. If the plant is manageable in size to dig out of the ground, you can examine the roots and cut away any black, slimy parts. Treat the remaining roots with a copper fungicide. Replant it in a drier location or amend the soil to improve drainage, perhaps with pumice, gravel, or sand.
Weak or foul-smelling plant
Typically, the large-growing century plant is steady and won’t easily be budged from side-to-side. However, if you notice that your plant is tilting or leaning or if a foul smell is coming from the plant, these are indications of an agave snout weevil infestation. These species of weevil feasts on large agave species, like the century plant. They weaken the plant by burrowing into the leaves to lay eggs. Once hatched, the larvae feed on the plant’s tissue. Compounding the problem, bacteria enters the plant through the holes left by the weevil and the plant begins to decay, resulting in the foul smell. Once the visible signs of an agave snout weevil infestation are present, it’s often too late to save the plant. The best option is to protect century plants from weevils and other plants through a regular application of neem oil or other insecticide.
FAQ
Do century plants live for 100 years?
No. Despite the name, these plants have a lifespan of 25 to 30 years on average.
When does a century plant bloom?
A century plant will bloom once in its lifetime, usually between 25 and 30 years. Well-fertilized plants may bloom as soon as ten years, but most people avoid speeding up the blooming process, because the plant dies soon after blooming.
Are century plants easy to take care of?
These plants don't require regular maintenance and will grow with little hands-on care. It is important that they have well-draining soil and don’t receive too much moisture.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月28日
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a herbaceous perennial that thrives in much of North America and is very easy to grow. It has a clump-forming growth habit with square stems and triangular to oval, gray-green leaves with toothed edges that stretch around 3 inches long. Flower spikes appear in the late spring to early fall, bearing clusters of small blooms that are white with light purple markings.
This plant is a fast grower and can quickly spread throughout the landscape if not kept in check. It will reach its mature size in a single season and should be planted in the spring. Note that, while many cats enjoy catnip, the oils of the plant are technically toxic to them.1
Common Name Catnip, catmint
Botanical Name Nepeta cataria
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.1 to 7.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones 3–7 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
Toxicity Oil is toxic to cats
How to Plant Catnip
When to Plant
Plant catnip in the spring after the threat of frost has passed in your area. Start catnip seeds indoors around six weeks prior to your projected last frost date.
Selecting a Planting Site
The ideal garden location for catnip will get lots of sunlight and have well-drained soil. Make sure no taller plants nearby are creating too much shade for the catnip throughout the day. However, if you live in a hot climate, catnip will appreciate some afternoon shade. Catnip also grows well in containers. In fact, a planting site with some kind of boundary, such as a pot, raised garden bed, or stone wall, will help to contain catnip's spread.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Space catnip plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the garden. Position nursery plants and seedlings at the same depth they were in their previous container. Lightly cover seeds with soil. A support structure is typically not necessary for catnip.
Catnip Plant Care
Light
Catnip prefers full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Too little light can cause leggy growth with sparse foliage. However, catnip does struggle in extreme heat. So if you live in a hot climate, give your catnip a little shade from the strong afternoon sun.
Soil
These plants aren’t fussy about their soil as long as they have good drainage. They can tolerate poor, rocky, and dry soils. A well-draining sandy or loamy soil is best with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Catnip is a very drought-tolerant plant, and sitting in waterlogged soil can kill it. Keep the soil of seedlings lightly moist but not soggy. Mature plants likely won’t need watering unless you have a prolonged period of drought. If the foliage is wilting, give your catnip a deep watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Catnip prefers temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees. The plant tends to struggle in hot, humid climates. Especially in high humidity, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal growth.
Fertilizer
Mix some compost into the soil at the time of planting to give your catnip a boost. After that, catnip typically won’t need additional feeding. But if you have very poor soil, you can use an all-purpose liquid plant food or a layer of compost each spring.
Pollination
Catnip is a self-pollinating plant. It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.
Types of Catnip
Besides Nepeta cataria, there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:
Nepeta citriodora: Known as lemon catnip, this plant grows slightly smaller than Nepeta cataria and has a lemony fragrance.
Nepeta camphorata: Commonly referred to as camphor catnip, this plant remains under 2 feet tall and wide.
Nepeta parnassica: Known as Greek catnip, this plant also remains smaller than 2 feet tall and wide and bears light pink flowers.
Catnip vs. Catmint
The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. And its flowers are purple while catnip’s are primarily white. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not. Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes.
Harvesting Catnip
Harvest catnip when it’s in bloom. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Once they’ve dried out, which usually takes two to three weeks, the leaves and flowers can be crumbled for use.
How to Grow Catnip in Pots
Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, and make sure it has a drainage hole. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.
Pruning
Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. To minimize its spread, prune off the flowers as they’re starting to degrade and before they go to seed. This also can encourage further blooming. Also, cut down new sprouts from underground runners as they appear if you don’t want the plant to spread. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil. They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth.
Propagating Catnip
Catnip will readily spread on its own. But it’s also easy to propagate the plant via cuttings. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Here’s how:
Cut off a 4- to 6-inch piece of stem at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Place the cutting either in a small container of water or moist soilless potting mix. A healthy root system will typically form in either scenario. Put the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the container water each day, or continue to keep the potting mix moist.
Roots should appear within a week. Once the plant has produced new foliage growth, it’s ready to be transplanted.
Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant. Here’s how:
Dig up the plant, aiming to keep its roots as intact as possible.
Use shears or a sharp spade to divide the clump in half.
Replant the separate clumps at the same depth they were previously growing.
How to Grow Catnip From Seed
Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Then, plant the seeds about 1/8 inch deep in a tray filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.
Potting and Repotting Catnip
Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line. Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Even if your plant doesn’t need a larger container, it’s ideal to refresh it with new potting mix every couple of years.
Overwintering
Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones. Cut back any tender new growth in the fall, so cold weather doesn’t damage it and weaken the plant. And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. Don’t water the plant over winter. Wet soil in the wintertime can be fatal.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Catnip isn’t prone to many pest or disease issues. If the plant sits in waterlogged soil for too long, it can succumb to rot. Another concern is the plant attracting cats, who will try to rub and roll on the foliage and potentially damage the stems. Placing some garden fencing or stakes around the plant can help to prevent this, as can growing the catnip in a container.
FAQ
Is catnip easy to grow?
Catnip plants are quite easy to grow and can tolerate many different growing conditions.
How long does it take to grow catnip?
Catnip is a fast grower and will reach its mature size within one growing season.
Does catnip come back every year?
Catnip is a perennial plant and will come back in the garden each year.
This plant is a fast grower and can quickly spread throughout the landscape if not kept in check. It will reach its mature size in a single season and should be planted in the spring. Note that, while many cats enjoy catnip, the oils of the plant are technically toxic to them.1
Common Name Catnip, catmint
Botanical Name Nepeta cataria
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.1 to 7.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones 3–7 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
Toxicity Oil is toxic to cats
How to Plant Catnip
When to Plant
Plant catnip in the spring after the threat of frost has passed in your area. Start catnip seeds indoors around six weeks prior to your projected last frost date.
Selecting a Planting Site
The ideal garden location for catnip will get lots of sunlight and have well-drained soil. Make sure no taller plants nearby are creating too much shade for the catnip throughout the day. However, if you live in a hot climate, catnip will appreciate some afternoon shade. Catnip also grows well in containers. In fact, a planting site with some kind of boundary, such as a pot, raised garden bed, or stone wall, will help to contain catnip's spread.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Space catnip plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the garden. Position nursery plants and seedlings at the same depth they were in their previous container. Lightly cover seeds with soil. A support structure is typically not necessary for catnip.
Catnip Plant Care
Light
Catnip prefers full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Too little light can cause leggy growth with sparse foliage. However, catnip does struggle in extreme heat. So if you live in a hot climate, give your catnip a little shade from the strong afternoon sun.
Soil
These plants aren’t fussy about their soil as long as they have good drainage. They can tolerate poor, rocky, and dry soils. A well-draining sandy or loamy soil is best with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Catnip is a very drought-tolerant plant, and sitting in waterlogged soil can kill it. Keep the soil of seedlings lightly moist but not soggy. Mature plants likely won’t need watering unless you have a prolonged period of drought. If the foliage is wilting, give your catnip a deep watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Catnip prefers temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees. The plant tends to struggle in hot, humid climates. Especially in high humidity, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal growth.
Fertilizer
Mix some compost into the soil at the time of planting to give your catnip a boost. After that, catnip typically won’t need additional feeding. But if you have very poor soil, you can use an all-purpose liquid plant food or a layer of compost each spring.
Pollination
Catnip is a self-pollinating plant. It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.
Types of Catnip
Besides Nepeta cataria, there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:
Nepeta citriodora: Known as lemon catnip, this plant grows slightly smaller than Nepeta cataria and has a lemony fragrance.
Nepeta camphorata: Commonly referred to as camphor catnip, this plant remains under 2 feet tall and wide.
Nepeta parnassica: Known as Greek catnip, this plant also remains smaller than 2 feet tall and wide and bears light pink flowers.
Catnip vs. Catmint
The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. And its flowers are purple while catnip’s are primarily white. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not. Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes.
Harvesting Catnip
Harvest catnip when it’s in bloom. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Once they’ve dried out, which usually takes two to three weeks, the leaves and flowers can be crumbled for use.
How to Grow Catnip in Pots
Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, and make sure it has a drainage hole. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.
Pruning
Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. To minimize its spread, prune off the flowers as they’re starting to degrade and before they go to seed. This also can encourage further blooming. Also, cut down new sprouts from underground runners as they appear if you don’t want the plant to spread. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil. They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth.
Propagating Catnip
Catnip will readily spread on its own. But it’s also easy to propagate the plant via cuttings. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Here’s how:
Cut off a 4- to 6-inch piece of stem at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Place the cutting either in a small container of water or moist soilless potting mix. A healthy root system will typically form in either scenario. Put the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the container water each day, or continue to keep the potting mix moist.
Roots should appear within a week. Once the plant has produced new foliage growth, it’s ready to be transplanted.
Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant. Here’s how:
Dig up the plant, aiming to keep its roots as intact as possible.
Use shears or a sharp spade to divide the clump in half.
Replant the separate clumps at the same depth they were previously growing.
How to Grow Catnip From Seed
Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Then, plant the seeds about 1/8 inch deep in a tray filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.
Potting and Repotting Catnip
Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line. Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Even if your plant doesn’t need a larger container, it’s ideal to refresh it with new potting mix every couple of years.
Overwintering
Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones. Cut back any tender new growth in the fall, so cold weather doesn’t damage it and weaken the plant. And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. Don’t water the plant over winter. Wet soil in the wintertime can be fatal.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Catnip isn’t prone to many pest or disease issues. If the plant sits in waterlogged soil for too long, it can succumb to rot. Another concern is the plant attracting cats, who will try to rub and roll on the foliage and potentially damage the stems. Placing some garden fencing or stakes around the plant can help to prevent this, as can growing the catnip in a container.
FAQ
Is catnip easy to grow?
Catnip plants are quite easy to grow and can tolerate many different growing conditions.
How long does it take to grow catnip?
Catnip is a fast grower and will reach its mature size within one growing season.
Does catnip come back every year?
Catnip is a perennial plant and will come back in the garden each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月19日
The popcorn plant is a tall shrub, and in its native African habitat it can grow up to 25 feet in height. When grown as a small shrub in colder climates as an annual, it usually doesn't get taller than 3 feet. The plant's common name comes, in part, from its distinctive scent, said to be uncannily like buttered popcorn. The smell comes not from the bright yellow flowers (which also look a bit like popped popcorn), but from the small oval leaves. The leaves grow to about 3 inches long in pairs up and down the stem. The plant is popular with children for its recognizable scent that must be coaxed by touching the leaves. However, since the plant is poisonous if ingested, it's best not to have it in reach of small children or curious pets.
Botanical Name Senna didymobotrya
Common Name Popcorn plant, cassia
Family Fabaceae
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature size 10-25 ft. (perennial), 2-3 ft. (annual)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 9
Native Areas Africa
Toxicity Toxic to Humans and Pets
Popcorn Plant Care
With proper care, plenty of water, and good fertilizer, popcorn plants will bloom all summer long and into the autumn but will be at their most floriferous in the hot humid days of summer. When other plants wilt in the heat, the popcorn plant flourishes. After flowering for a long season, the plant puts out brown seed pods that are a tasty snack for songbirds.
The popcorn plant's vibrant color makes it a dramatic sight in the summertime garden landscape. It is a heat-tolerant species, well suited to hot and humid regions.
Popcorn plants are somewhat invasive in their native Africa. One variety of the Senna genus can be quite weedy in some hot humid regions such as south Florida. Check the label and be sure to get Senna didymobotrya and not Senna pendula var. glabrata.
Light
The popcorn plant likes heat and light, so it's best to place your plants in direct sun. If the plant is getting too hot and dry, its leaves may close up during the day. They also tend to close up at night to conserve moisture.
Soil
This plant likes very fertile, rich, and well-drained soils. When grown in pots, potting mix with some sandy loam is a good combination. Potting mix alone may drain quickly and leave this moisture-loving plant too dry.
Water
Water your tropical popcorn plant regularly. Daily is the best bet if it's in a container. If the leaves close up during the day, that means it may be wanting some water. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Misting the leaves with water in a sprayer is advisable if the weather is hot and dry.
Temperature and Humidity
After daily temperatures fall below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the flowering and growth of your popcorn plants will slow down somewhat. This plant adores high humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Popcorn plants respond well to fertilizer throughout the growing season. Fertilize in late spring and again once or twice in middle and/or late summer with a fertilizer designed specifically for tropical plants.
Pruning
Deadheading spent blooms and trimming any dead or leafless branches will help to keep your popcorn plant looking healthy and full. There's no need for serious pruning.
Propagating Popcorn Plants
This plant can also be propagated from seeds or cuttings but is usually fairly inexpensive at a garden shop when purchased as an annual. Keep in mind that growing it from cuttings can take a long while and is often unsuccessful, which is why propagating via seed is usually the best bet.
How to Grow Popcorn Plants From Seed
The seed pots on popcorn plants are several inches long and contain at least a dozen seeds each. Pull the dried pods from the plant in late fall and collect the seeds. Before planting in the spring, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Sow them in containers filled with well-draining yet moist potting soil. Sow them in very early spring with the goal of planting healthy seedlings in the garden after all threat of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting Popcorn Plants
When growing these plants in containers, make sure the soil is well-draining, and ensure plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. It can also help to add a layer of pebbles to allow the water to drain even further. The container should be at least a few inches wider than the roots of the plant to allow for space to grow, as well as wide enough to handle the height of the growing plant without allowing it to topple over.
Overwintering
Popcorn plants can be overwintered if kept indoors. A greenhouse is preferable, but a garage is fine if the temperature stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. They will only need watering occasionally.
If kept in a dark place the plant will go dormant. Bring it back outside once all danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temps stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis.
If you are in a tropical zone, overwintering plants in the garden should not be an issue.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Fortunately, this plant doesn't have much trouble with pests or diseases. Aphids will sometimes sample it; they can be remedied by a strong jet of water to wash them away or horticultural oil to deter them. This plant can also experience fungal diseases if kept too wet. Avoid this by giving it excellent air circulation and keeping the soil moist, but not wet.
How to Get Popcorn Plants to Bloom
Popcorn plants should bloom readily in their proper zone. As a tropical plant, blooms can be severely stunted if the temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. To keep it blooming well, make sure it's inside and protected during the colder months. A popcorn plant that is kept in the garden soil will die back if the winters are too cold and will need to be replaced in the spring.
FAQ
Where should I place popcorn plants in my house?
These are tropical plants, so give them full sun on the hottest windowsill you can find. They also need good air circulation, so a room with a ceiling fan is ideal. Be sure to mist the plant on a regular basis.
How long does a popcorn plant live?
Though these are often planted as an annual in colder climates, when kept in a tropical climate and given proper care, the popcorn plant can live for up to 10 years.
Why did my popcorn plant suddenly turn brown?
These plants are very susceptible to frost. If there was a sudden dip in temperature overnight, or the plant was covered in frost, the demise can be surprisingly quick.
Botanical Name Senna didymobotrya
Common Name Popcorn plant, cassia
Family Fabaceae
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature size 10-25 ft. (perennial), 2-3 ft. (annual)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 9
Native Areas Africa
Toxicity Toxic to Humans and Pets
Popcorn Plant Care
With proper care, plenty of water, and good fertilizer, popcorn plants will bloom all summer long and into the autumn but will be at their most floriferous in the hot humid days of summer. When other plants wilt in the heat, the popcorn plant flourishes. After flowering for a long season, the plant puts out brown seed pods that are a tasty snack for songbirds.
The popcorn plant's vibrant color makes it a dramatic sight in the summertime garden landscape. It is a heat-tolerant species, well suited to hot and humid regions.
Popcorn plants are somewhat invasive in their native Africa. One variety of the Senna genus can be quite weedy in some hot humid regions such as south Florida. Check the label and be sure to get Senna didymobotrya and not Senna pendula var. glabrata.
Light
The popcorn plant likes heat and light, so it's best to place your plants in direct sun. If the plant is getting too hot and dry, its leaves may close up during the day. They also tend to close up at night to conserve moisture.
Soil
This plant likes very fertile, rich, and well-drained soils. When grown in pots, potting mix with some sandy loam is a good combination. Potting mix alone may drain quickly and leave this moisture-loving plant too dry.
Water
Water your tropical popcorn plant regularly. Daily is the best bet if it's in a container. If the leaves close up during the day, that means it may be wanting some water. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Misting the leaves with water in a sprayer is advisable if the weather is hot and dry.
Temperature and Humidity
After daily temperatures fall below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the flowering and growth of your popcorn plants will slow down somewhat. This plant adores high humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Popcorn plants respond well to fertilizer throughout the growing season. Fertilize in late spring and again once or twice in middle and/or late summer with a fertilizer designed specifically for tropical plants.
Pruning
Deadheading spent blooms and trimming any dead or leafless branches will help to keep your popcorn plant looking healthy and full. There's no need for serious pruning.
Propagating Popcorn Plants
This plant can also be propagated from seeds or cuttings but is usually fairly inexpensive at a garden shop when purchased as an annual. Keep in mind that growing it from cuttings can take a long while and is often unsuccessful, which is why propagating via seed is usually the best bet.
How to Grow Popcorn Plants From Seed
The seed pots on popcorn plants are several inches long and contain at least a dozen seeds each. Pull the dried pods from the plant in late fall and collect the seeds. Before planting in the spring, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Sow them in containers filled with well-draining yet moist potting soil. Sow them in very early spring with the goal of planting healthy seedlings in the garden after all threat of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting Popcorn Plants
When growing these plants in containers, make sure the soil is well-draining, and ensure plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. It can also help to add a layer of pebbles to allow the water to drain even further. The container should be at least a few inches wider than the roots of the plant to allow for space to grow, as well as wide enough to handle the height of the growing plant without allowing it to topple over.
Overwintering
Popcorn plants can be overwintered if kept indoors. A greenhouse is preferable, but a garage is fine if the temperature stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. They will only need watering occasionally.
If kept in a dark place the plant will go dormant. Bring it back outside once all danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temps stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis.
If you are in a tropical zone, overwintering plants in the garden should not be an issue.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Fortunately, this plant doesn't have much trouble with pests or diseases. Aphids will sometimes sample it; they can be remedied by a strong jet of water to wash them away or horticultural oil to deter them. This plant can also experience fungal diseases if kept too wet. Avoid this by giving it excellent air circulation and keeping the soil moist, but not wet.
How to Get Popcorn Plants to Bloom
Popcorn plants should bloom readily in their proper zone. As a tropical plant, blooms can be severely stunted if the temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. To keep it blooming well, make sure it's inside and protected during the colder months. A popcorn plant that is kept in the garden soil will die back if the winters are too cold and will need to be replaced in the spring.
FAQ
Where should I place popcorn plants in my house?
These are tropical plants, so give them full sun on the hottest windowsill you can find. They also need good air circulation, so a room with a ceiling fan is ideal. Be sure to mist the plant on a regular basis.
How long does a popcorn plant live?
Though these are often planted as an annual in colder climates, when kept in a tropical climate and given proper care, the popcorn plant can live for up to 10 years.
Why did my popcorn plant suddenly turn brown?
These plants are very susceptible to frost. If there was a sudden dip in temperature overnight, or the plant was covered in frost, the demise can be surprisingly quick.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月17日
'Casa Blanca' is a beloved hybrid Oriental lily which is part of the Lilium genus. Its gorgeous flowering bulbs bloom in mid to late summer after the Asiatic lilies, which earlier in the season. Both types of lilies are easy to grow. 'Casa Blanca' has firm leaves with very large and noticeably fragrant flowers.
Oriental cultivars like the 'Casa Blanca' thrive in cooler regions, can tolerate poorer soil conditions, and have larger flowers atop exceptionally tall stems that grow three to four feet tall. Each stem produces six to eight blooms.
Each "Casa Blanca' flower has six gleaming white petals with reddish-brown anthers. As it blooms, every large eight-inch broad petal curls outwards, beaming beautifully in the summer sun.
Very fragrant on strong, dark green stems, they make exceptional fresh cut flowers often used by florists and in bridal bouquets. Hardy in USDA Zones 5 through 8 ( and sometimes even 4 and 9), this bulbous perennial is grown widely and vigorously in containers and in garden beds.
Learn to care for the ravishing 'Casa Blanca' Lily and watch it add richness and texture to your landscape, perhaps even in a moon garden.
Botanical Name Lilium 'Casa Blanca'
Common Name Casa Blanca Lily
Plant Type Oriental hybrid lily (bulbous, herbaceous perennial)
Mature Size Three to four feet tall, one foot wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to light shade
Soil Type Organic, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic or neutral soil
Bloom Time Mid to late summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones USDA 4-9
Native Area Europe, North America and Asia south to the Philippines
Toxicity Toxic to cats
Planting Instructions
Plant 'Casa Blanca' bulbs in spring in colder zones (zones 4-7) and in the spring or fall in milder climates. Space bulbs ten inches apart and dig planting holes six to eight inches deep.
Plant in small groups of three bulbs for a beautiful display. These lilies are easy to grow in a perennial border and grow equally well in containers where they can tolerate crowding.
With proper care, 'Casa Blanca' lily bulbs will bloom in their first year.
Light
This lily prefers full sun but will also grow in part sun to part shade. Ideally, the top of the plant should receive plenty of sunlight, six to eight hours per day, while the lower part is shaded by other lower-growing plants to prevent the bulbs from drying out.
Plants might need staking if grown in too much shade, which produces weaker stems.
Soil
The 'Casa Blanca' lily grows in just about any average, well-drained but moist, garden soil. If soil is heavy and does not drain well, consider planting the bulbs in a raised bed. Mulch the area to keep roots cool and preserve moisture.
Water
Water plants regularly so that the soil stays moist, and don't let the soil dry out. Do not overwater; these plants do not tolerate boggy conditions.
Fertilizer
When new growth appears in spring, feed plants with a low-nitrogen, well-balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer. During the growing season, feed plants every two weeks.
Temperature
If an especially cold winter is expected, dig up the bulbs. Store them indoors and then replant them in spring.
Cut Flowers
When cutting flowers for bouquets, choose blooms that are just about open, and clip off no more than one-third of the stem. Doing so preserves enough foliage for photosynthesis to continue producing food for the bulb. Snip off the stamens so that the brown pollen does not stain your hands or clothing.
Propagating Casa Blanca Lily
Every three or four years, blooms will likely become so large that the plants will flop over. As this weakens the stem, stake plants until flowers are finished blooming. Then, in autumn, dig up the bulbs and divide each cluster. Transplant the bulbs and spread a few inches of organic mulch on the area.
Common Pests/Diseases
Avoid overwatering and creating a boggy condition as this could cause bulbs to rot. Excessively wet weather can also cause gray mold. Like all lilies, beware of aphids spreading the lily mosaic virus, which is not curable. Hand pick lily leaf beetles.
Oriental cultivars like the 'Casa Blanca' thrive in cooler regions, can tolerate poorer soil conditions, and have larger flowers atop exceptionally tall stems that grow three to four feet tall. Each stem produces six to eight blooms.
Each "Casa Blanca' flower has six gleaming white petals with reddish-brown anthers. As it blooms, every large eight-inch broad petal curls outwards, beaming beautifully in the summer sun.
Very fragrant on strong, dark green stems, they make exceptional fresh cut flowers often used by florists and in bridal bouquets. Hardy in USDA Zones 5 through 8 ( and sometimes even 4 and 9), this bulbous perennial is grown widely and vigorously in containers and in garden beds.
Learn to care for the ravishing 'Casa Blanca' Lily and watch it add richness and texture to your landscape, perhaps even in a moon garden.
Botanical Name Lilium 'Casa Blanca'
Common Name Casa Blanca Lily
Plant Type Oriental hybrid lily (bulbous, herbaceous perennial)
Mature Size Three to four feet tall, one foot wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to light shade
Soil Type Organic, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic or neutral soil
Bloom Time Mid to late summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones USDA 4-9
Native Area Europe, North America and Asia south to the Philippines
Toxicity Toxic to cats
Planting Instructions
Plant 'Casa Blanca' bulbs in spring in colder zones (zones 4-7) and in the spring or fall in milder climates. Space bulbs ten inches apart and dig planting holes six to eight inches deep.
Plant in small groups of three bulbs for a beautiful display. These lilies are easy to grow in a perennial border and grow equally well in containers where they can tolerate crowding.
With proper care, 'Casa Blanca' lily bulbs will bloom in their first year.
Light
This lily prefers full sun but will also grow in part sun to part shade. Ideally, the top of the plant should receive plenty of sunlight, six to eight hours per day, while the lower part is shaded by other lower-growing plants to prevent the bulbs from drying out.
Plants might need staking if grown in too much shade, which produces weaker stems.
Soil
The 'Casa Blanca' lily grows in just about any average, well-drained but moist, garden soil. If soil is heavy and does not drain well, consider planting the bulbs in a raised bed. Mulch the area to keep roots cool and preserve moisture.
Water
Water plants regularly so that the soil stays moist, and don't let the soil dry out. Do not overwater; these plants do not tolerate boggy conditions.
Fertilizer
When new growth appears in spring, feed plants with a low-nitrogen, well-balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer. During the growing season, feed plants every two weeks.
Temperature
If an especially cold winter is expected, dig up the bulbs. Store them indoors and then replant them in spring.
Cut Flowers
When cutting flowers for bouquets, choose blooms that are just about open, and clip off no more than one-third of the stem. Doing so preserves enough foliage for photosynthesis to continue producing food for the bulb. Snip off the stamens so that the brown pollen does not stain your hands or clothing.
Propagating Casa Blanca Lily
Every three or four years, blooms will likely become so large that the plants will flop over. As this weakens the stem, stake plants until flowers are finished blooming. Then, in autumn, dig up the bulbs and divide each cluster. Transplant the bulbs and spread a few inches of organic mulch on the area.
Common Pests/Diseases
Avoid overwatering and creating a boggy condition as this could cause bulbs to rot. Excessively wet weather can also cause gray mold. Like all lilies, beware of aphids spreading the lily mosaic virus, which is not curable. Hand pick lily leaf beetles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月04日
Despite its common name, the cardboard palm (Zamia furfuracea) is not a palm tree. Its name comes from its growth habit, which is similar to that of palms. Cardboard palms grow pinnate leaves (a leaf composed of many small leaflets on either side of a stem) much like a palm frond that you'd find on a lipstick palm. The leaflets are bright green and oval, and they have a slightly fuzzy feel similar to cardboard. The plant is generally shorter than it is wide, with a thick, partially subterranean trunk. It has a slow growth rate and is best planted in the spring. Outside of its tropical growing zones, it’s commonly kept as a houseplant.
Botanical Name Zamia furfuracea
Common Names Cardboard palm, cardboard plant, cardboard sago, cardboard cycad, Jamaican sago, Mexican cycad
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 4–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Cardboard Palm Care
Cardboard palms are hardy plants, and they generally don’t require a great deal of care. The key to growing them successfully is to provide them with well-drained soil and give them lots of sunlight, especially during the growing season (spring to fall) and when the plant is young. Other than that, you’ll have to water whenever the soil dries out and feed your cardboard palm twice a year.
These plants don’t have major problems with pests or diseases. However, overwatering and allowing water to collect on the plant foliage can cause fungal diseases. So be sure only to water the soil around the base of the plant. Regular pruning is not necessary, but you can prune off dead, diseased, or damaged leaves as they arise.
Light
Cardboard palms grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Indoors, place your plant by your brightest window, and be sure to rotate the pot regularly so all parts of the plant get an even amount of light. Otherwise the cardboard palm will start to grow lopsided.
Soil
These plants can tolerate a variety of soil types as long as they have good drainage. A loose, sandy soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best. Cardboard palms in containers will grow well in a potting mix made for cacti and palms.
Water
Only a moderate amount of water is required for cardboard palms. And overwatering can cause the roots to rot. From the spring to fall, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. But over the winter, reduce watering by about half of what you watered during the growing season.
Temperature and Humidity
Cardboard palms are fairly hardy plants. They can tolerate heat, but cold temperatures and frost can damage or kill them. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and they prefer low to average humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Feed your plant twice a year with a slow-release palm fertilizer. One application should be at the beginning of the spring and the other at the start of autumn.
Potting and Repotting Cardboard Palms
Growing cardboard palms from seed is especially difficult, so it’s recommended to select a nursery plant to pot. Pick a sturdy pot with ample drainage holes that’s slightly larger than your plant’s root ball, and plant the cardboard palm in quality potting mix.
This plant doesn’t like to have its roots disturbed, so only repot once the roots have outgrown the container and are poking out of it. This will typically occur every two to three years until the plant has reached its maximum size. Select one pot size up, gently remove the cardboard palm from its old container, and replant it in the new one with fresh potting mix at the same depth it was planted before.
Zamia Varieties
The cardboard palm is only one of more than 50 species within the Zamia genus. Most of these species grow in tropical environments, and many have palm-like features. Some Zamia species include:
Zamia integrifolia: This species can be found in the Southeastern United States and features dark green leaves that extend around 4 feet from the trunk.
Zamia pseudoparasitica: This species is epiphytic, meaning it generally grows on the surface of other plants.
Zamia splendens: This species is known for its glossy reddish-brown leaves and has good shade tolerance.
Zamia decumbens: This unusual species has trunks that run horizontally along the ground, rather than growing vertically.
Botanical Name Zamia furfuracea
Common Names Cardboard palm, cardboard plant, cardboard sago, cardboard cycad, Jamaican sago, Mexican cycad
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 4–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Cardboard Palm Care
Cardboard palms are hardy plants, and they generally don’t require a great deal of care. The key to growing them successfully is to provide them with well-drained soil and give them lots of sunlight, especially during the growing season (spring to fall) and when the plant is young. Other than that, you’ll have to water whenever the soil dries out and feed your cardboard palm twice a year.
These plants don’t have major problems with pests or diseases. However, overwatering and allowing water to collect on the plant foliage can cause fungal diseases. So be sure only to water the soil around the base of the plant. Regular pruning is not necessary, but you can prune off dead, diseased, or damaged leaves as they arise.
Light
Cardboard palms grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Indoors, place your plant by your brightest window, and be sure to rotate the pot regularly so all parts of the plant get an even amount of light. Otherwise the cardboard palm will start to grow lopsided.
Soil
These plants can tolerate a variety of soil types as long as they have good drainage. A loose, sandy soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best. Cardboard palms in containers will grow well in a potting mix made for cacti and palms.
Water
Only a moderate amount of water is required for cardboard palms. And overwatering can cause the roots to rot. From the spring to fall, water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. But over the winter, reduce watering by about half of what you watered during the growing season.
Temperature and Humidity
Cardboard palms are fairly hardy plants. They can tolerate heat, but cold temperatures and frost can damage or kill them. They thrive in temperatures ranging from 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and they prefer low to average humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Feed your plant twice a year with a slow-release palm fertilizer. One application should be at the beginning of the spring and the other at the start of autumn.
Potting and Repotting Cardboard Palms
Growing cardboard palms from seed is especially difficult, so it’s recommended to select a nursery plant to pot. Pick a sturdy pot with ample drainage holes that’s slightly larger than your plant’s root ball, and plant the cardboard palm in quality potting mix.
This plant doesn’t like to have its roots disturbed, so only repot once the roots have outgrown the container and are poking out of it. This will typically occur every two to three years until the plant has reached its maximum size. Select one pot size up, gently remove the cardboard palm from its old container, and replant it in the new one with fresh potting mix at the same depth it was planted before.
Zamia Varieties
The cardboard palm is only one of more than 50 species within the Zamia genus. Most of these species grow in tropical environments, and many have palm-like features. Some Zamia species include:
Zamia integrifolia: This species can be found in the Southeastern United States and features dark green leaves that extend around 4 feet from the trunk.
Zamia pseudoparasitica: This species is epiphytic, meaning it generally grows on the surface of other plants.
Zamia splendens: This species is known for its glossy reddish-brown leaves and has good shade tolerance.
Zamia decumbens: This unusual species has trunks that run horizontally along the ground, rather than growing vertically.
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