文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月21日
Cannas (Canna spp.) are a genus of beautiful, easy-to-grow tropical and sub-tropical plants with showy flowers that come in red, pink, yellow, orange, and cream. Their flowers are very attractive to hummingbirds. Canna leaves are wide and long (resembling banana leaves) in green, bronze, or multicolored patterns. Most cannas grow up to 6 feet tall and occasionally as tall as 8 feet. These plants grow from rhizomes, modified stems that store nutrients and send up shoots.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月15日
Donkey's tail (also commonly known as burro's tail or lamb's tail) is a popular and easy-to-grow succulent with rows of fleshy, tear-drop shaped leaves. Native to Honduras and Mexico, mature specimens grow slow and steady but can reach trailing lengths of up to four feet long in six years' time (though the average length is closer to 24 inches). Indoors, the succulent can be planted and propagated year-round, while outdoors it does best planted in early spring. Red, yellow, or white flowers can emerge in late summer, though the plant rarely blooms indoors.
Botanical name Sedum morganianum
Common name Donkey's tail, burro's tail, lamb's tail
Plant type Evergreen succulent
Mature size 1–4 ft. long, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Loamy, sandy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom time Late summer
Flower color Red, white, yellow
Hardiness zones 10, 11 (USDA)
Native area North America
Donkey's Tail Care
All things considered, donkey's tail succulents are pretty forgiving plants. Like most succulents, they do well if left slightly neglected—if you forget to water them once or twice, they'll still be just fine. Where you really have to treat your donkey's tail with care is while handling it. Its eye-catching beaded stems are actually extremely fragile and can break off with even the slightest touch. For that reason, it's best to choose a sunny spot to place or hang your donkey's tail succulent and then, quite literally, forget about it.
Light
As with many succulents, donkey's tail thrives best with lots of warm sunlight. If you're choosing to house your plant indoors, opt for a sunny windowsill that boasts several hours of daily light. If you're growing your succulent outdoors, place it in a pot or spot in your garden that gets plenty of morning sunlight but is partially shaded during the more aggressive afternoon hours to avoid scorching its beaded leaves. If you notice your plant turning grey or a very dull green (rather than its typical rich blue-green), that's probably a sign that it's getting too much harsh light. You may also notice a chalky white, waxy appearance on the beaded leaves of your donkey's tail succulent. Don't stress—it's a completely normal occurrence called epicuticular wax, which the plant produces to protect itself from too much harsh sun exposure.
Soil
In order for your donkey's tail succulent to grow successfully, it should be housed in well-draining, sandy soil. If you plan to plant your succulent in a container (either to keep outdoors or to live inside), opt for a gritty soil mixture suited specifically for cacti or succulents. If you're including it as part of a larger garden, be sure to choose a spot amongst other plants that prefer well-drained soil, as too much retained water will cause it to die (you can even consider mixing sand into your ground soil to aid in drainage). Additionally, donkey's tail thrives in soil with a neutral to acidic pH of around 6.0, but isn't too picky in this regard.
Water
When it comes to watering your donkey's tail succulent, less is more. Like many succulents, donkey's tail is drought resistant once established, so you'll want to water it more frequently during its spring and summer grow season, then taper off throughout the fall and winter months. Generally, opt for a single heavy watering each month if your plant is indoors, increasing to once every two or three weeks if you're housing your succulent outdoors. A good rule of thumb: The soil of your succulent should dry out completely in-between waterings. To aid in drainage, choose a pot with holes at its base; a terracotta or clay material can also help wick water from the soil. When it doubt, err on the side of less watering rather than more—donkey's tail holds moisture in its beaded leaves and can tolerate periods of drought but is not at all tolerant of over-watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Donkey's tail prefers warm weather, though it stands up better to cooler temperatures than some other succulents. On average, try to maintain an environment of 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit whether you keep your plant indoors or outdoors. It can survive when exposed to temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but only briefly, so be sure to bring it inside before the first frost or move it away from drafty windows in the winter months. When it comes to humidity, donkey's tail has no special needs. In fact, it prefers average levels of humidity and can rot if attempts are made to increase the humidity of its environment (so no need to mist its leaves or keep it somewhere more humid, like a bathroom).
Fertilizer
While fertilizing donkey's tail succulent isn't totally necessary to its successful growth, it also won't hurt and can be a great way to give the plant added nutrients. Focus on feeding your plant at the beginning of its grow season in spring, using a controlled release, balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer, which contains equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Mature succulents may prefer the fertilizer at one-quarter strength, while younger plants may prefer fertilizer with less nitrogen.
Propagating Donkey's Tail Succulents
Like most succulents, donkey's tail is easy to propagate through its leaves, which is good news, as they seem to fall off at the slightest touch. If you notice your plant has shed some of its beaded leaves recently, simply put them aside until the skin has scabbed over, about two to three days. From there, you can insert the leaves into a new pot filled with cacti or succulent soil mixture, leaving about half of each leaf exposed above the soil line. Water regularly (about once a week) until you see new growth start to emerge.
Repotting Donkey's Tail Succulents
Because of their fragile nature, great care should be taken to never repot a donkey's tail succulent unless absolutely necessary. Do so, and you risk losing many of your "tails" to jostling and replanting. However, if you must repot your succulent, you will find the most success in the warmer months. Make sure the soil is completely dry before beginning, then gently remove the succulent from its current vessel, knocking away any old soil from the roots of the plant. Place it in a new pot and backfill with soil, making sure to spread out the roots in the new, larger pot. Allow it to "rest" for a week or so before giving it its first watering in its new home.
Common Pests
The donkey's tail succulent is not particularly susceptible to pests, but if it does experience an infestation, it's likely to be from aphids. Though aphids can typically be hosed off a plant, that's not the best solution for donkey's tail succulents given their fragile nature. Instead, opt to mist them every few days with organic neem oil until the aphids disappear (typically around two to three weeks).
Botanical name Sedum morganianum
Common name Donkey's tail, burro's tail, lamb's tail
Plant type Evergreen succulent
Mature size 1–4 ft. long, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Loamy, sandy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom time Late summer
Flower color Red, white, yellow
Hardiness zones 10, 11 (USDA)
Native area North America
Donkey's Tail Care
All things considered, donkey's tail succulents are pretty forgiving plants. Like most succulents, they do well if left slightly neglected—if you forget to water them once or twice, they'll still be just fine. Where you really have to treat your donkey's tail with care is while handling it. Its eye-catching beaded stems are actually extremely fragile and can break off with even the slightest touch. For that reason, it's best to choose a sunny spot to place or hang your donkey's tail succulent and then, quite literally, forget about it.
Light
As with many succulents, donkey's tail thrives best with lots of warm sunlight. If you're choosing to house your plant indoors, opt for a sunny windowsill that boasts several hours of daily light. If you're growing your succulent outdoors, place it in a pot or spot in your garden that gets plenty of morning sunlight but is partially shaded during the more aggressive afternoon hours to avoid scorching its beaded leaves. If you notice your plant turning grey or a very dull green (rather than its typical rich blue-green), that's probably a sign that it's getting too much harsh light. You may also notice a chalky white, waxy appearance on the beaded leaves of your donkey's tail succulent. Don't stress—it's a completely normal occurrence called epicuticular wax, which the plant produces to protect itself from too much harsh sun exposure.
Soil
In order for your donkey's tail succulent to grow successfully, it should be housed in well-draining, sandy soil. If you plan to plant your succulent in a container (either to keep outdoors or to live inside), opt for a gritty soil mixture suited specifically for cacti or succulents. If you're including it as part of a larger garden, be sure to choose a spot amongst other plants that prefer well-drained soil, as too much retained water will cause it to die (you can even consider mixing sand into your ground soil to aid in drainage). Additionally, donkey's tail thrives in soil with a neutral to acidic pH of around 6.0, but isn't too picky in this regard.
Water
When it comes to watering your donkey's tail succulent, less is more. Like many succulents, donkey's tail is drought resistant once established, so you'll want to water it more frequently during its spring and summer grow season, then taper off throughout the fall and winter months. Generally, opt for a single heavy watering each month if your plant is indoors, increasing to once every two or three weeks if you're housing your succulent outdoors. A good rule of thumb: The soil of your succulent should dry out completely in-between waterings. To aid in drainage, choose a pot with holes at its base; a terracotta or clay material can also help wick water from the soil. When it doubt, err on the side of less watering rather than more—donkey's tail holds moisture in its beaded leaves and can tolerate periods of drought but is not at all tolerant of over-watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Donkey's tail prefers warm weather, though it stands up better to cooler temperatures than some other succulents. On average, try to maintain an environment of 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit whether you keep your plant indoors or outdoors. It can survive when exposed to temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but only briefly, so be sure to bring it inside before the first frost or move it away from drafty windows in the winter months. When it comes to humidity, donkey's tail has no special needs. In fact, it prefers average levels of humidity and can rot if attempts are made to increase the humidity of its environment (so no need to mist its leaves or keep it somewhere more humid, like a bathroom).
Fertilizer
While fertilizing donkey's tail succulent isn't totally necessary to its successful growth, it also won't hurt and can be a great way to give the plant added nutrients. Focus on feeding your plant at the beginning of its grow season in spring, using a controlled release, balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer, which contains equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Mature succulents may prefer the fertilizer at one-quarter strength, while younger plants may prefer fertilizer with less nitrogen.
Propagating Donkey's Tail Succulents
Like most succulents, donkey's tail is easy to propagate through its leaves, which is good news, as they seem to fall off at the slightest touch. If you notice your plant has shed some of its beaded leaves recently, simply put them aside until the skin has scabbed over, about two to three days. From there, you can insert the leaves into a new pot filled with cacti or succulent soil mixture, leaving about half of each leaf exposed above the soil line. Water regularly (about once a week) until you see new growth start to emerge.
Repotting Donkey's Tail Succulents
Because of their fragile nature, great care should be taken to never repot a donkey's tail succulent unless absolutely necessary. Do so, and you risk losing many of your "tails" to jostling and replanting. However, if you must repot your succulent, you will find the most success in the warmer months. Make sure the soil is completely dry before beginning, then gently remove the succulent from its current vessel, knocking away any old soil from the roots of the plant. Place it in a new pot and backfill with soil, making sure to spread out the roots in the new, larger pot. Allow it to "rest" for a week or so before giving it its first watering in its new home.
Common Pests
The donkey's tail succulent is not particularly susceptible to pests, but if it does experience an infestation, it's likely to be from aphids. Though aphids can typically be hosed off a plant, that's not the best solution for donkey's tail succulents given their fragile nature. Instead, opt to mist them every few days with organic neem oil until the aphids disappear (typically around two to three weeks).
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月28日
The showy bromeliad may look difficult to grow but it can easily adapt to average home conditions with its astonishing array of colors and textures. Although many do have very splashy flower displays, bromeliads are just as popular as beautiful foliage plants with leaves in red, green, purple, orange, and yellow colors and with bands, stripes, spots, and other features. Bromeliads are relatively slow-growing plants that take one to three years to mature into flowering plants.
Common Name Bromeliad
Botanical Name Bromeliaceae genera
Family Bromeliaceae
Plant Type Perennials; family includes both epiphyte ("air plant") and terrestrial species
Mature Size Varies by genera and species
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Fast-draining potting soil
Soil pH 5.0 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Blooms once; timing varies
Flower Color Red, green, purple, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); usually grown as houseplants
Native Area Tropical and subtropical Americas
Bromeliad Care
In general, bromeliads need a fairly specific set of conditions to bloom—and these conditions vary from genus to genus, and even from species to species in a single genus. Their bloom cycle is affected by day length, temperature, humidity, water, and feeding. You will need to research specific genera and species to determine how best to grow them.
Bromeliad species can either be terrestrial (grown in soil) or epiphytic (clinging to trees and absorbing nutrients through their leaves), but when grown as houseplants, both types are usually grown in a porous, well-draining potting mixture. As a general rule of thumb, bromeliads will thrive in the same conditions as epiphytic orchids. However, they are considerably more tolerant than orchids of fluctuations in temperature, drought, and careless feeding.
When cultivated as indoor plants, most bromeliads—both epiphytic and terrestrial species—are usually planted in a mixture of potting soil and sand. Watering is done either by moistening the soil or by filling the center depression ("cup") formed by the rosette of leaves.
Light
Different genera of bromeliads are tolerant of different levels of light. Some can withstand full tropical sun, while others will quickly scorch. In general, the varieties with soft, flexible, spineless leaves usually prefer lower light levels, while those with stiff, hard leaves prefer bright indirect light.
Plants that are yellowish might be receiving too much light, while plants that are dark green or elongated might be receiving too little light. Increasing light exposure can help the plant bloom, provided the other conditions are appropriate.1
Soil
Bromeliads grown indoors thrive in fast-draining potting soil that holds moisture but drains well. A mixture of two-thirds peat-based soil and one-third sand is often ideal. You can also use orchid mix, charcoal, or soilless potting mix. Many bromeliads that are epiphytic can be grown in containers, or you can try to grow them as authentic "air plants" mounted to boards or logs (typically secured with ties or glue).
Water
Bromeliads are very tolerant of drought conditions. In a typical house, it's usually not necessary to keep the central cup of the plant constantly filled with water. But this is an option if the light levels and temperature are high. If you do centrally water your bromeliad, make sure to flush the central cup every so often to remove any built-up salts. But in general, it's enough to water these plants very sparingly through the soil weekly during the growing season and reduce watering during the winter rest period. Never let the plant rest in standing water.1
Plants you are growing as epiphytes (as air plants without soil) need more consistent watering; drench them once a day, and give them a good soaking by submerging them in water once per week.
Temperature and Humidity
Bromeliads are also highly tolerant of temperature variations, but plants in hotter conditions need more humidity. Bromeliads prefer temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Though some cold-hardy types can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees, they should generally not be exposed to temperatures under 40 degrees.1 They grow well indoors at humidity levels between 40 percent and 60 percent. In many climates, bromeliads can be moved outdoors during the summer.
Fertilizer
Bromeliads are not heavy feeders. During the growing season, use a liquid fertilizer diluted at one-eighth or one-quarter strength, applied every two to four weeks. If you use a slow-release pellet fertilizer, apply a single pellet once each season when watering the central cup. Avoid feeding mature plants in winter or when the plant begins to flower.
Types of Bromeliads
Although houseplant bromeliads are usually grown in a blended potting mix, many species are epiphytic plants when found in their native range—the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas. Some common genera of bromeliads used as houseplants include:
Guzmania: This genus includes most of the most common and readily available species, including G. lingulata, G. zahnii , G. Guzmania sanguinea, and G. monostachia. These plants have long, flat glossy green leaves. The most common varieties have bracts that are bright red (one common name for this plant is scarlet star), but depending on species, there are some that are yellow, orange, purple, or pink. The blooms are very long-lasting, holding up for two to four months.
Neoregelia: This is the most diverse of all the bromeliad genera. Those species used as houseplants have some of the most colorful bracts, ranging from pink to deep purple. These plants form short, fairly flat rosettes of leaves; some miniatures are no more than 1 inch across while other plants can be as much as 40 inches wide.
Vriesea: The species in the Vriesea genus features tropical, feather-like blooms and variegated foliage. Among the popular varieties are V. splendens and the hybrid Vreisea' Fireworks'.
Ananas comosus 'Champaca':Ananas is the genus that includes the common pineapple, and the cultivar of one species, A. Comosus 'Champaca', is an ornamental pineapple often grown as a houseplant. This bromeliad features spidery leaves and miniature pineapples on top of the flower spike.
Propagating Bromeliads
Propagating bromeliads from shoots is preferred over the less common and difficult way of growing the plant from seeds. Bromeliads multiply by sending up offsets, or pups. In a natural growth cycle, a mature plant will send up a flower spike that includes small, sometimes insignificant flowers surrounded by showy bracts. (It's really the bracts that are most appealing in these plants). The flower bracts are often long-lasting—sometimes for months.
After the flower dies, the plant also begins to die over the next few months. However, the parent plant will send out one or several smaller pups at its base. These pups can be carefully cut off with sterile scissors and potted individually in their own containers. Pups should only be potted after they develop a few roots and begin to form the central cup that's characteristic of bromeliads.
Common Pests
Although sometimes susceptible to mealybugs, aphids, and scale, bromeliads are largely free of severe pests.1 You can eliminate mealybugs and aphids by spraying the plant with a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap. Dab scale bugs with a cotton swab doused with rubbing alcohol.
How to Get Bromeliads to Bloom
While it can be difficult to accurately replicate the conditions any particular bromeliad needs to bloom, some research has shown the plants can be forced to bloom by exposure to ethylene gas.2 So if you want to force your plant to spike, place it in a tightly sealed, clear plastic bag for up to 10 days with a ripe apple. The apple will give off ethylene gas as it decomposes. Make sure any water is drained from the bromeliad's central cup before attempting this.
Common Problems With Bromeliads
Though bromeliads are somewhat easy-going plants, they can be prone to some cultural issues. Stay aware of the following problems:
Overwatering
When you're watering, if you're over-saturating the potting soil rather than filling the central "cup" formed by the leaves, bromeliads can develop rot. These are plants that prefer relatively dry conditions.3
Hard Water
Water high in mineral content can cause water spots on the base of the plant and in the center cup. It is best to water with demineralized water.4
Improper Container
Bromeliads don't have a large root system, so plant them in small, well-draining pots that won't collect a lot of water. Planting them in a too large pot without drainage can lead to rot.
Common Name Bromeliad
Botanical Name Bromeliaceae genera
Family Bromeliaceae
Plant Type Perennials; family includes both epiphyte ("air plant") and terrestrial species
Mature Size Varies by genera and species
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Fast-draining potting soil
Soil pH 5.0 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Blooms once; timing varies
Flower Color Red, green, purple, orange, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10-11 (USDA); usually grown as houseplants
Native Area Tropical and subtropical Americas
Bromeliad Care
In general, bromeliads need a fairly specific set of conditions to bloom—and these conditions vary from genus to genus, and even from species to species in a single genus. Their bloom cycle is affected by day length, temperature, humidity, water, and feeding. You will need to research specific genera and species to determine how best to grow them.
Bromeliad species can either be terrestrial (grown in soil) or epiphytic (clinging to trees and absorbing nutrients through their leaves), but when grown as houseplants, both types are usually grown in a porous, well-draining potting mixture. As a general rule of thumb, bromeliads will thrive in the same conditions as epiphytic orchids. However, they are considerably more tolerant than orchids of fluctuations in temperature, drought, and careless feeding.
When cultivated as indoor plants, most bromeliads—both epiphytic and terrestrial species—are usually planted in a mixture of potting soil and sand. Watering is done either by moistening the soil or by filling the center depression ("cup") formed by the rosette of leaves.
Light
Different genera of bromeliads are tolerant of different levels of light. Some can withstand full tropical sun, while others will quickly scorch. In general, the varieties with soft, flexible, spineless leaves usually prefer lower light levels, while those with stiff, hard leaves prefer bright indirect light.
Plants that are yellowish might be receiving too much light, while plants that are dark green or elongated might be receiving too little light. Increasing light exposure can help the plant bloom, provided the other conditions are appropriate.1
Soil
Bromeliads grown indoors thrive in fast-draining potting soil that holds moisture but drains well. A mixture of two-thirds peat-based soil and one-third sand is often ideal. You can also use orchid mix, charcoal, or soilless potting mix. Many bromeliads that are epiphytic can be grown in containers, or you can try to grow them as authentic "air plants" mounted to boards or logs (typically secured with ties or glue).
Water
Bromeliads are very tolerant of drought conditions. In a typical house, it's usually not necessary to keep the central cup of the plant constantly filled with water. But this is an option if the light levels and temperature are high. If you do centrally water your bromeliad, make sure to flush the central cup every so often to remove any built-up salts. But in general, it's enough to water these plants very sparingly through the soil weekly during the growing season and reduce watering during the winter rest period. Never let the plant rest in standing water.1
Plants you are growing as epiphytes (as air plants without soil) need more consistent watering; drench them once a day, and give them a good soaking by submerging them in water once per week.
Temperature and Humidity
Bromeliads are also highly tolerant of temperature variations, but plants in hotter conditions need more humidity. Bromeliads prefer temperatures between 55 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Though some cold-hardy types can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees, they should generally not be exposed to temperatures under 40 degrees.1 They grow well indoors at humidity levels between 40 percent and 60 percent. In many climates, bromeliads can be moved outdoors during the summer.
Fertilizer
Bromeliads are not heavy feeders. During the growing season, use a liquid fertilizer diluted at one-eighth or one-quarter strength, applied every two to four weeks. If you use a slow-release pellet fertilizer, apply a single pellet once each season when watering the central cup. Avoid feeding mature plants in winter or when the plant begins to flower.
Types of Bromeliads
Although houseplant bromeliads are usually grown in a blended potting mix, many species are epiphytic plants when found in their native range—the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas. Some common genera of bromeliads used as houseplants include:
Guzmania: This genus includes most of the most common and readily available species, including G. lingulata, G. zahnii , G. Guzmania sanguinea, and G. monostachia. These plants have long, flat glossy green leaves. The most common varieties have bracts that are bright red (one common name for this plant is scarlet star), but depending on species, there are some that are yellow, orange, purple, or pink. The blooms are very long-lasting, holding up for two to four months.
Neoregelia: This is the most diverse of all the bromeliad genera. Those species used as houseplants have some of the most colorful bracts, ranging from pink to deep purple. These plants form short, fairly flat rosettes of leaves; some miniatures are no more than 1 inch across while other plants can be as much as 40 inches wide.
Vriesea: The species in the Vriesea genus features tropical, feather-like blooms and variegated foliage. Among the popular varieties are V. splendens and the hybrid Vreisea' Fireworks'.
Ananas comosus 'Champaca':Ananas is the genus that includes the common pineapple, and the cultivar of one species, A. Comosus 'Champaca', is an ornamental pineapple often grown as a houseplant. This bromeliad features spidery leaves and miniature pineapples on top of the flower spike.
Propagating Bromeliads
Propagating bromeliads from shoots is preferred over the less common and difficult way of growing the plant from seeds. Bromeliads multiply by sending up offsets, or pups. In a natural growth cycle, a mature plant will send up a flower spike that includes small, sometimes insignificant flowers surrounded by showy bracts. (It's really the bracts that are most appealing in these plants). The flower bracts are often long-lasting—sometimes for months.
After the flower dies, the plant also begins to die over the next few months. However, the parent plant will send out one or several smaller pups at its base. These pups can be carefully cut off with sterile scissors and potted individually in their own containers. Pups should only be potted after they develop a few roots and begin to form the central cup that's characteristic of bromeliads.
Common Pests
Although sometimes susceptible to mealybugs, aphids, and scale, bromeliads are largely free of severe pests.1 You can eliminate mealybugs and aphids by spraying the plant with a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap. Dab scale bugs with a cotton swab doused with rubbing alcohol.
How to Get Bromeliads to Bloom
While it can be difficult to accurately replicate the conditions any particular bromeliad needs to bloom, some research has shown the plants can be forced to bloom by exposure to ethylene gas.2 So if you want to force your plant to spike, place it in a tightly sealed, clear plastic bag for up to 10 days with a ripe apple. The apple will give off ethylene gas as it decomposes. Make sure any water is drained from the bromeliad's central cup before attempting this.
Common Problems With Bromeliads
Though bromeliads are somewhat easy-going plants, they can be prone to some cultural issues. Stay aware of the following problems:
Overwatering
When you're watering, if you're over-saturating the potting soil rather than filling the central "cup" formed by the leaves, bromeliads can develop rot. These are plants that prefer relatively dry conditions.3
Hard Water
Water high in mineral content can cause water spots on the base of the plant and in the center cup. It is best to water with demineralized water.4
Improper Container
Bromeliads don't have a large root system, so plant them in small, well-draining pots that won't collect a lot of water. Planting them in a too large pot without drainage can lead to rot.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月27日
Gaillardia, also known as blanket flower, is an easy-to-grow, short-lived perennial with richly colored, daisy-like flowers. The plant forms a slowly spreading mound and the common name may be a reference to how they can slowly spread and "blanket" an area. The plants grow to about 24 inches in height with about a 20-inch spread. Blanket flowers are fast-growers and will bloom in their first year. This garden favorite puts out large showy blossoms in shades of reds and yellows throughout the warm season months.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
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Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
FEATURED VIDEO
7 Tips for Every Gardener
Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月25日
Homegrown fruit always beats market fruit for freshness and taste, but not everyone has the space to grow a fruit tree or a melon vine. For that reason, berries are the gateway fruit for many gardeners, and none are easier to grow in the home garden than the blackberry. As native North American fruiting shrubs that can typically be harvested from June to August, blackberries are primed to grow in your yard with little extra maintenance. All you need to grow summer blackberries for your pies, jams, and smoothies is a spot with full sun and a good supply of soil amendments such as compost or leaf mold.
Blackberries are sold as dormant bare roots or as potted plants. They are best planted when the canes are dormant—generally in early spring. If you have the patience to grow blackberries from seed, plant them in the ground in the fall. Planted from seeds, blackberry canes generally will begin producing meaningful quantities of fruit in their second full year of growth.
Botanical Name Rubus Fruticosus
Common Name Blackberry
Plant Type Perennial
Size 3–5 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained loam
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0)
Hardiness Zones 5–8
Native Area North America, especially the Pacific Northwest
How to Plant Blackberries
As members of the Rosaceae family, the cultivation of blackberries resembles that of rose bushes. Fortunately, blackberries are closer to wild roses in their ease of care than they are to a hybrid tea rose. Blackberries will tolerate many growing conditions, but the harvest of a struggling blackberry plant will be disappointing compared to the harvest of a pampered plant. Plenty of sunshine, regular irrigation, and rich loamy soil will give plants the energy and nutrients they need to yield sweet, jumbo blackberries.
Plants should be spaced 5 to 6 feet apart; if planting in rows, space the rows 5 to 8 feet apart. If necessary, amend the soil before planting so it is rich, well-drained, and slightly acidic. Blackberries should be planted relatively shallow—about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in the nursery pot.
Trailing varieties of blackberries should have a trellis or other form of support to secure the canes.
Light
Sites with full sun are best for productive blackberry bushes. Some afternoon shade is tolerated, especially in areas with hot summers.
Soil
Careful site selection will ensure a long life for your blackberries, which usually live for about a decade with proper care. The ideal soil is slightly acidic with good drainage; these plants do not do well in clay soil. An elevated site or raised beds will not only help drainage but will also prevent late spring frosts from damaging flower buds. Remove all weeds that might draw nutrients or water away from your blackberries, as their shallow roots are susceptible to this competition.
Keep a good layer of mulch over the root zone at all times. This will feed the plants, conserve water moisture, and keep weeds down.
Water
Blackberries need moderate amounts of water, around 1 inch per week provided either by rainfall or from ground-level irrigation. Blackberries do not fare well in wet soils.
Temperature and Humidity
Blackberries require a period of cold dormancy to germinate, but because of their shallow root systems, they don't do well in areas where temperatures go below zero degrees routinely. Zones 5 to 8 provide the best environment for blackberries. Cold winter temperatures combined with wet spring soils may lead to plant death. The reverse environment of hot, dry winds is also unfavorable for blackberry growing and may result in stunted, seedy fruits.
Fertilizer
Fertilize your blackberries in the spring when plants are emerging from dormancy, using a balanced 10-10-10 formula. Fertilize plants again in the fall with an application of manure and compost, which will also suppress weeds and improve soil tilth.
Blackberry Varieties
Blackberries are usually categorized according to their growth habit:
Erect thorny blackberries grow upright and don't require support for the canes. They have very sharp spines on the canes—sharp enough to tear clothing.
Erect thornless blackberries are similar, but have canes without the prickly thorns. They, too, require no trellis supports.
Trailing thornless blackberries have sprawling canes that require a trellis or system of wires to hold them up above the ground.
'Shawnee' is resistant to cold, and has self-supporting thorny canes. 'Natchez' is thornless and erect, and will form a hedgerow as it spreads by suckers. Semi-erect thornless varieties like 'Chester' and 'Triple Crown' grow as a clump, and benefit from a trellis. Varieties like 'Prime-Ark Traveler' produce fruit on new and old canes throughout the season.
Blackberries vs. Raspberries
Both blackberries and raspberries belong to the Rubus genus. Blackberry and raspberry plants look very similar—both featuring thorny canes and compound leaves with toothed edges in groups of three or five. One key difference between the fruits of blackberries and raspberries is the way the fruits are formed. The tiny globes of the fruits, called drupelets, are attached to a white core in blackberries. Raspberries, including black raspberries, form drupelets with a hollow core.
Harvesting
Because they are highly perishable, it's important to follow the development of your ripening blackberries carefully. Immature blackberries start out green, then transition to red before maturing to a deep, glossy black. Blackberries do not continue to ripen after harvest, so pick the berries only after they have turned completely black. Berries last about seven days in the refrigerator after harvest.
Pruning
Blackberry roots are perennial but the canes are biennial. This means that second-year canes that have produced their fruit need to be trimmed away after harvesting.
For an established shrub, new canes that haven't yet fruited should be tip-pruned to about 3 feet in summer. This will cause the new canes to branch out, maximizing the fruit produced. Once these canes produce fruit, they should be removed to the ground immediately after the fruit harvest.
In early spring before new growth has started, remove any canes damaged by winter, and thin out the remaining canes to the four or five strongest canes.
Propagating Blackberries
It's easy to propagate blackberry plants from stem cuttings. Cut a 4-inch piece from the end of the stem in late spring when temperatures are mild and rainfall is plenty. Plant it in the soil, and keep it moist. Roots will form in two to four weeks. These newly started plants can be planted in the fall, or you can keep them in a sheltered location and plant them the following spring.
Common Pests and Diseases
Blackberries are prone to anthracnose, stem blight, and crown gall. Prevent disease by purchasing disease-free plant stock from reputable nurseries, and planting your blackberries away from areas with wild brambles, which may carry these diseases.
Insect pests include stink bugs and raspberry crown borers. Keeping your plants healthy and vigorous will make them less attractive to insect attack.
Blackberries are sometimes afflicted by viral diseases. Raspberry bushy dwarf virus and blackberry calico virus both cause bright yellow splotches to appear on leaves. Affected plants will need to be removed and destroyed.
How to Grow Blackberries in Pots
When growing blackberries in containers, choose a compact cultivar like Baby Cakes that does not need pruning. Choose large containers that hold at least five gallons of soil to prevent drying out.
Blackberries are sold as dormant bare roots or as potted plants. They are best planted when the canes are dormant—generally in early spring. If you have the patience to grow blackberries from seed, plant them in the ground in the fall. Planted from seeds, blackberry canes generally will begin producing meaningful quantities of fruit in their second full year of growth.
Botanical Name Rubus Fruticosus
Common Name Blackberry
Plant Type Perennial
Size 3–5 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, well-drained loam
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral (5.5 to 7.0)
Hardiness Zones 5–8
Native Area North America, especially the Pacific Northwest
How to Plant Blackberries
As members of the Rosaceae family, the cultivation of blackberries resembles that of rose bushes. Fortunately, blackberries are closer to wild roses in their ease of care than they are to a hybrid tea rose. Blackberries will tolerate many growing conditions, but the harvest of a struggling blackberry plant will be disappointing compared to the harvest of a pampered plant. Plenty of sunshine, regular irrigation, and rich loamy soil will give plants the energy and nutrients they need to yield sweet, jumbo blackberries.
Plants should be spaced 5 to 6 feet apart; if planting in rows, space the rows 5 to 8 feet apart. If necessary, amend the soil before planting so it is rich, well-drained, and slightly acidic. Blackberries should be planted relatively shallow—about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in the nursery pot.
Trailing varieties of blackberries should have a trellis or other form of support to secure the canes.
Light
Sites with full sun are best for productive blackberry bushes. Some afternoon shade is tolerated, especially in areas with hot summers.
Soil
Careful site selection will ensure a long life for your blackberries, which usually live for about a decade with proper care. The ideal soil is slightly acidic with good drainage; these plants do not do well in clay soil. An elevated site or raised beds will not only help drainage but will also prevent late spring frosts from damaging flower buds. Remove all weeds that might draw nutrients or water away from your blackberries, as their shallow roots are susceptible to this competition.
Keep a good layer of mulch over the root zone at all times. This will feed the plants, conserve water moisture, and keep weeds down.
Water
Blackberries need moderate amounts of water, around 1 inch per week provided either by rainfall or from ground-level irrigation. Blackberries do not fare well in wet soils.
Temperature and Humidity
Blackberries require a period of cold dormancy to germinate, but because of their shallow root systems, they don't do well in areas where temperatures go below zero degrees routinely. Zones 5 to 8 provide the best environment for blackberries. Cold winter temperatures combined with wet spring soils may lead to plant death. The reverse environment of hot, dry winds is also unfavorable for blackberry growing and may result in stunted, seedy fruits.
Fertilizer
Fertilize your blackberries in the spring when plants are emerging from dormancy, using a balanced 10-10-10 formula. Fertilize plants again in the fall with an application of manure and compost, which will also suppress weeds and improve soil tilth.
Blackberry Varieties
Blackberries are usually categorized according to their growth habit:
Erect thorny blackberries grow upright and don't require support for the canes. They have very sharp spines on the canes—sharp enough to tear clothing.
Erect thornless blackberries are similar, but have canes without the prickly thorns. They, too, require no trellis supports.
Trailing thornless blackberries have sprawling canes that require a trellis or system of wires to hold them up above the ground.
'Shawnee' is resistant to cold, and has self-supporting thorny canes. 'Natchez' is thornless and erect, and will form a hedgerow as it spreads by suckers. Semi-erect thornless varieties like 'Chester' and 'Triple Crown' grow as a clump, and benefit from a trellis. Varieties like 'Prime-Ark Traveler' produce fruit on new and old canes throughout the season.
Blackberries vs. Raspberries
Both blackberries and raspberries belong to the Rubus genus. Blackberry and raspberry plants look very similar—both featuring thorny canes and compound leaves with toothed edges in groups of three or five. One key difference between the fruits of blackberries and raspberries is the way the fruits are formed. The tiny globes of the fruits, called drupelets, are attached to a white core in blackberries. Raspberries, including black raspberries, form drupelets with a hollow core.
Harvesting
Because they are highly perishable, it's important to follow the development of your ripening blackberries carefully. Immature blackberries start out green, then transition to red before maturing to a deep, glossy black. Blackberries do not continue to ripen after harvest, so pick the berries only after they have turned completely black. Berries last about seven days in the refrigerator after harvest.
Pruning
Blackberry roots are perennial but the canes are biennial. This means that second-year canes that have produced their fruit need to be trimmed away after harvesting.
For an established shrub, new canes that haven't yet fruited should be tip-pruned to about 3 feet in summer. This will cause the new canes to branch out, maximizing the fruit produced. Once these canes produce fruit, they should be removed to the ground immediately after the fruit harvest.
In early spring before new growth has started, remove any canes damaged by winter, and thin out the remaining canes to the four or five strongest canes.
Propagating Blackberries
It's easy to propagate blackberry plants from stem cuttings. Cut a 4-inch piece from the end of the stem in late spring when temperatures are mild and rainfall is plenty. Plant it in the soil, and keep it moist. Roots will form in two to four weeks. These newly started plants can be planted in the fall, or you can keep them in a sheltered location and plant them the following spring.
Common Pests and Diseases
Blackberries are prone to anthracnose, stem blight, and crown gall. Prevent disease by purchasing disease-free plant stock from reputable nurseries, and planting your blackberries away from areas with wild brambles, which may carry these diseases.
Insect pests include stink bugs and raspberry crown borers. Keeping your plants healthy and vigorous will make them less attractive to insect attack.
Blackberries are sometimes afflicted by viral diseases. Raspberry bushy dwarf virus and blackberry calico virus both cause bright yellow splotches to appear on leaves. Affected plants will need to be removed and destroyed.
How to Grow Blackberries in Pots
When growing blackberries in containers, choose a compact cultivar like Baby Cakes that does not need pruning. Choose large containers that hold at least five gallons of soil to prevent drying out.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月18日
Bird's nest ferns (Asplenium nidus) are naturally epiphytic, meaning they grow on the surface of other plants. In their rainforest homes, they can be found growing high in the crooks of trees. They form a series of erect, spoon-shaped, bright green fronds that rise from a central rosette. Healthy plants can have fronds up to 5 feet long, but bird's nest ferns kept as houseplants typically have fronds that grow only about 2 feet long. These ferns have a slow growth rate. They're best planted in the spring, though houseplants generally can be started year-round.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
Common Name Bird's nest fern, nest fern
Botanical Name Asplenium nidus
Family Aspleniaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 3–5 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time None
Flower Color None
Hardiness Zones 11–12, USA
Native Area Asia, Australia, Africa
Bird's Nest Fern Care
The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing it with ample warmth, humidity, and moisture. When growing it as a houseplant, one of the best places to situate a bird's nest fern is near a shower or tub in a bathroom where it will receive optimal humidity and warmth, though it must have a light source as well.
New leaves will constantly emerge from the central area of the plant, which resembles a bird's nest. Do not touch, move, or handle the new, delicate fronds as they emerge from the center. They are extremely fragile, and if you touch them, there is a high chance of them becoming damaged or deformed.
Light
Bird’s nest ferns grow well in filtered sunlight to a moderate amount of shade. Don’t expose them to direct sunlight other than the very early morning sun. Harsh direct sunlight can burn the leaves. Indoors, an east- or north-facing window is ideal.
Soil
These plants like soil that’s loose and rich in organic matter with excellent drainage. A peat-based potting mix is good for container plants.
Water
The ferns prefer a consistent amount of soil moisture, but they don’t do well sitting in soggy soil. Water whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid watering directly into the center of the plant, as this can encourage mold growth and rot in the dense nest. Aim water at the soil to avoid wetting the fern's fronds.
Temperature and Humidity
The bird’s nest fern thrives in warmth with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It can tolerate temperatures down to 50 degrees, but anything colder than that can harm the plant, especially with prolonged exposure. Indoors, be sure to protect your plant from cool drafts, such as air blowing from an air-conditioning vent.
This fern prefers high humidity and moist environments, such as a bathroom, greenhouse, or terrarium. To raise the humidity around a bird’s nest fern, you can use a humidifier. Or you can set its pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. But make sure the bottom of the pot isn’t sitting in the water because that can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
During the fern's active growing season (April through September), fertilize once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer that's diluted to half strength. Make sure to apply the fertilizer to the soil and not the fronds, as direct contact with fertilizer can burn foliage. Withhold fertilizer for the rest of the year because too much food can cause the fronds to have an abnormal shape or take on a yellowish or brownish color.
Types of Bird's Nest Fern
There are only a handful of varieties of bird’s nest ferns, which typically feature different leaf shapes. They include:
Asplenium nidus 'Crispy Wave': Sword-shaped ruffled leaves
Asplenium nidus 'Osaka': Narrow, strap-like leaves with rippled edges
Asplenium nidus 'Antiquum': Wavy leaf margins
Asplenium nidus 'Victoria': Long, wavy, tongue-shaped fronds
Propagating Bird's Nest Fern
Bird’s nest ferns can be tricky to propagate for beginner gardeners. Many people opt to purchase nursery plants instead, though propagating them yourself will save you some money. Propagation occurs via spores, which look like fuzzy brown spots on the undersides of fronds. When they look especially plump and fuzzy, that's when it's time to propagate.
To collect the spores, cut off a frond with these spots and place it in a paper bag for a few days. The spores will drop into the bag. Next, add the spores on top of a container of sphagnum moss that’s placed in a water dish, so the moss will soak up the water. The moss should be moist throughout but not waterlogged. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep the environment moist, and place it in a warm, shaded spot. Keep the dish filled with water, and mist the moss if it doesn't feel moist. Germination should occur in a few weeks.
Potting and Repotting Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns must be potted in a container with ample drainage holes. As an epiphytic plant, bird's nest ferns are accustomed to growing with minimal potting media. So your plant generally won’t need repotting because its roots have run out of space. Instead, these ferns will need repotting once they’ve grown so large that they’re unstable in their pot and need a larger container to attach themselves to. This will typically occur every two to three years, and spring is the best time to repot. When it’s time to repot, select a container that's large enough to keep your plant stable. A clay container is often better than plastic to anchor the plant. Carefully loosen your plant from its previous pot, set it in the new pot at the same depth as it was before, and fill around it with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
No serious disease or pest problems affect bird's nest ferns, though they can be affected by some insects common to houseplants, such as scale. Natural insecticidal soaps are the best solution to combat pest issues, since chemical pesticides will damage this plant's fragile leaves.
Common Problems With Bird's Nest Fern
Bird's nest ferns are generally healthy plants, but they can be prone to a few issues that largely have to do with an improper environment.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Too much sun can cause the foliage of a bird's nest fern to turn yellow. Likewise, too much fertilizer also can cause yellowing. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure it's always in proper sunlight conditions. And adjust fertilization if necessary.
Browning Tips
Fronds naturally turn brown as they die and are replaced with fresh growth. But browning along the edges of a frond is often due to drafts hitting the plant. Move your fern away from air-conditioning vents and any drafty windows or doors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月16日
The distinctive bird of paradise (Strelitzia spp.) is one of the best-known tropical flowers. It is closely related to the banana plant. The bird of paradise plant is named for closely resembling the tropical bird of the same name. It is easier to grow than many tropical plants and makes for a vigorous, rapidly growing indoor plant. It can be moved outside in the summer and thrives outside for half the year. Bird of paradise typically flowers in the late winter or early spring, but it can flower at other times of the year when provided optimal conditions. These plants grow with upright leaves emerging directly from the soil and have no trunk. The large leaves range from 12 to 18 inches long and can get splits in the leaf when exposed to windy conditions or brushed against in a busy hallway. Strelitzia is toxic to cats and dogs.1
Common Name Bird of paradise, crane flower
Botanical Name Strelitzia reginae, Strelitzia nicolai
Family Strelitziaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3.5-6 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full to partial
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Late winter to early spring
Flower Color Orange or white
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa (South Africa)
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Bird of Paradise Care
Strelitzia are beautiful plants that can be successfully grown inside; however, the biggest drawbacks are their size; they can grow 5 to 6 feet tall. These plants need 3 to 5 years to mature before they flower. They work well in massed plantings outside or as a specimen plant in warm climates, where their flowers rise above the foliage for an impressive display.
The trick to successful growth indoors is bright light with direct sun, regular watering, and warmth. Feed the plant with compost early in spring before new growth begins and fertilize every week during the growing season. To increase survival rate, grow the plant in a container that can be moved outside in warm summer months and returned inside during the winter.
Light
This plant needs bright light, including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, it requires shielding in the direct midday summer sun, which can burn the leaves of younger plants.2 A good position is in a room with windows facing east or west. Avoid rooms with only a north-facing window.
Soil
Use rich, well-drained potting mix for potted plants or a compost mixture. If using a pot, make sure it has ample drainage holes to allow water to flow through the soil and out of the pot.
Water
Keep the soil continually moist throughout the year. While it should not be waterlogged, expect to water it daily in the spring and summer as it loses moisture through its big leaves. You can water it until you see the water draining from its drainage holes, but make sure it does not sit in a pool of water. If overwatered, the plant will develop crunchy brown leaves. If underwatered, the leaves farthest from the center will turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
Bird of paradise prefers high humidity. You might want to keep a spray bottle handy to mist it if your home is dry. Keep the air temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant, and it recovers slowly from frost damage.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder. Feed it in the springtime with slow-release pellets or weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer.
Types of Strelitzia
There are five Strelitzia species, but only two are commonly grown as indoor plants: S. reginae (orange bird of paradise) and S. nicolai (white bird of paradise).
Strelitzia reginae 'Glauca': This orange variety has powdery grayer foliage and stems.
Strelitzia reginae 'Humilis' or 'Pygmaea': This orange variety only grows to about 3 feet in size.
Strelitzia reginae 'Ovata': This orange variety features rounded leaf blades.
Strelitzia juncea: The leafless bird of paradise lacks leaf blades, so its stems and leaves look like reeds.
Strelitzia caudata: This 25-foot-tall species grows in the higher elevations of South Africa and is also called the mountain bird of paradise. It blooms with white-and-blue petalled flowers and is the rarest and hardest to obtain.
Pruning
Birds of paradise flowers last for about three weeks before dropping their petals and dying. Remove old or damaged plant matter. This is the best way to thin the leaves. Remove the leaves by pulling them off or use sharp cutting instruments. Sterilize the implements in between different plants. If a leaf appears mostly healthy, leave it intact. If your plant has grown really large, and you need to do significant cutting down, use loppers, hand pruners, or a pruning saw in the early spring. Do not use hedge trimmers, which leave ragged cuts. You can cut all leaves and stems down to just above the ground. If the plant remains too crowded, use long-handled pruners and remove selected stems and leaves.
Propagating Bird of Paradise
The best ways to propagate birds of paradise are division and sowing seeds. Division is easier and quicker than growing from seed. It's best to use mature plants that have been previously blooming for at least three years. Here's how to divide strelitzia.
To propagate by division:
Depending on the size of your plant (and its rhizome or underground root structure), you will need larger instruments like a shovel and saw for in-ground or large plants. For smaller plants, you can use a sharp knife. If potting the division, you will need a new pot and a well-draining potting mix.
You can also remove the new growth or offshoots at the base of the plant that has at least three leaves and divide the rhizome below ground with a shovel, saw, or knife.
Repot in a new container with a well-draining potting mix.
How to Grow Strelitzia From Seed
Be patient when growing strelitzia from seeds. It can take two months for the seeds to germinate. Soak seeds in room-temperature water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. Remove any orange stringy material. Nick the seed with a knife or nail file. Plant the seed in a well-draining potting mix about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and at least 3 inches apart from other seeds. Place the container in a warm, indirect sun location (at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit). Cover with a cloche or plastic wrap, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Once the seedling germinates and produces two to three leaves, transplant to a 6-inch pot. Once your plant reaches 6 inches, it is ready for a more permanent home.
Potting and Repotting Strelitzia
Bird of paradise is a rapidly-growing plant that needs to reach a certain size before it blooms. A bird of paradise that is 3 to 4 feet tall grows well in a 10-inch pot. A 5- to 6-foot plant usually thrives in a 14-inch pot. Repot it every spring into the next-size-up pot.
Once it reaches maturity, allow it to be pot-bound so that it will bloom. You can divide it by the time it has matured or bloomed at least once but do it infrequently since crowded clumps produce the most blooms. Repotting disrupts the bloom cycle.
Overwintering
If it gets below freezing where you live for a prolonged time, you might kill this plant if you do not take it inside for the winter. However, if you live in an area like zone 9, where it only dips low for short periods, you may be able to overwinter your plant outdoors; but it will need help to survive.
To overwinter outdoors, cut the stem and leaves down to just 12 inches above the ground. Cover the entire stem and rhizome area with a layer of mulch, then leaf litter, and straw. Cover that with breathable row cover material and stake it down. As soon as spring arrives and the threat of the last frost is gone, remove the toppings.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Monitor the plant for aphids, scale, and whiteflies.3 If you see them, use insecticidal soap for control and apply it to the undersides of the leaves. Systemic pesticide is also effective. If you use systemic pesticide, the plant will distribute it from its roots through to its leaves and flowers. Bird of paradise is also susceptible to Botrytis cinerea (gray mold).3 Flowers and leaves with this condition will develop dark spots followed by a layer of gray mold. Remove the affected parts of the plant and allow them to air out.
How to Get Strelitzia to Bloom
Once your plant is at least four to five years old, it is mature enough to bloom. To spur flowering, keep it pot-bound. Give it a lot of sun (at least 6 hours of full sunlight or bright light) and feed it on schedule. One of the most common reasons a bird of paradise fails to flower is insufficient light. These plants should also be kept evenly moist throughout summer, but allow them to dry out between watering.
Common Problems With Strelitzia
Strelizia is a relatively easy-going plant with very few issues. It is most prone to root rot and insects that prey on the plant when its optimal conditions are not met. But, if it's not overwatered, kept fed, and given ample light and air circulation—it can keep most problems at bay.
Wilting or Browning of Leaves
The most common disease affecting strelitzia is root rot. When the roots of the plant sit in water or the soil gets soggy for a prolonged amount of time, a fungus that causes root rot can overtake a plant. It can be avoided by letting the soil dry out between waterings. Another sign you have root rot includes a rotting smell. Some plants can be saved if caught early. To fix root rot, pull up the root ball, cutting away blackened, moldy parts of the rhizome, apply a fungicide according to the instructions, and repot in a sterilized container with fresh, well-draining soil.
Curling Leaves
Curling leaves are a sign of underwatering. You can avoid this problem by giving more water and making sure that the water runs freely from the bottom of the pot. This thorough watering ensures that all the roots have access to water, but make sure that the plant doesn't sit in that water. Soggy soil can cause other problems.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellowing leaves can mean several things. First, if the occasion leaf turns yellow, and the plant is a mature plant, it can be the normal life cycle of the leaf of that plant. However, if many leaves begin to yellow it can be a sign that the plant does not have ample humidity, it needs more nutrients, or if the yellowed leaves are toward the outside of the plant, it's not getting sufficiently watered. Increase each of those factors—one at a time—to see if that solves the problem.
Slits or Breaks in the Leaves
This plant's leaves are large. If your strelitzia develops slits or breaks in the leaves, especially if your plant lives outside for some part of the year, it's natural and normal. The plant develops slits to allow the plant to circulate air around its leaves and roots. Wind and breezes contribute to slitting. Air circulation keeps mold and other pests from settling in.
Common Name Bird of paradise, crane flower
Botanical Name Strelitzia reginae, Strelitzia nicolai
Family Strelitziaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3.5-6 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full to partial
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Late winter to early spring
Flower Color Orange or white
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa (South Africa)
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Bird of Paradise Care
Strelitzia are beautiful plants that can be successfully grown inside; however, the biggest drawbacks are their size; they can grow 5 to 6 feet tall. These plants need 3 to 5 years to mature before they flower. They work well in massed plantings outside or as a specimen plant in warm climates, where their flowers rise above the foliage for an impressive display.
The trick to successful growth indoors is bright light with direct sun, regular watering, and warmth. Feed the plant with compost early in spring before new growth begins and fertilize every week during the growing season. To increase survival rate, grow the plant in a container that can be moved outside in warm summer months and returned inside during the winter.
Light
This plant needs bright light, including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, it requires shielding in the direct midday summer sun, which can burn the leaves of younger plants.2 A good position is in a room with windows facing east or west. Avoid rooms with only a north-facing window.
Soil
Use rich, well-drained potting mix for potted plants or a compost mixture. If using a pot, make sure it has ample drainage holes to allow water to flow through the soil and out of the pot.
Water
Keep the soil continually moist throughout the year. While it should not be waterlogged, expect to water it daily in the spring and summer as it loses moisture through its big leaves. You can water it until you see the water draining from its drainage holes, but make sure it does not sit in a pool of water. If overwatered, the plant will develop crunchy brown leaves. If underwatered, the leaves farthest from the center will turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
Bird of paradise prefers high humidity. You might want to keep a spray bottle handy to mist it if your home is dry. Keep the air temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant, and it recovers slowly from frost damage.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder. Feed it in the springtime with slow-release pellets or weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer.
Types of Strelitzia
There are five Strelitzia species, but only two are commonly grown as indoor plants: S. reginae (orange bird of paradise) and S. nicolai (white bird of paradise).
Strelitzia reginae 'Glauca': This orange variety has powdery grayer foliage and stems.
Strelitzia reginae 'Humilis' or 'Pygmaea': This orange variety only grows to about 3 feet in size.
Strelitzia reginae 'Ovata': This orange variety features rounded leaf blades.
Strelitzia juncea: The leafless bird of paradise lacks leaf blades, so its stems and leaves look like reeds.
Strelitzia caudata: This 25-foot-tall species grows in the higher elevations of South Africa and is also called the mountain bird of paradise. It blooms with white-and-blue petalled flowers and is the rarest and hardest to obtain.
Pruning
Birds of paradise flowers last for about three weeks before dropping their petals and dying. Remove old or damaged plant matter. This is the best way to thin the leaves. Remove the leaves by pulling them off or use sharp cutting instruments. Sterilize the implements in between different plants. If a leaf appears mostly healthy, leave it intact. If your plant has grown really large, and you need to do significant cutting down, use loppers, hand pruners, or a pruning saw in the early spring. Do not use hedge trimmers, which leave ragged cuts. You can cut all leaves and stems down to just above the ground. If the plant remains too crowded, use long-handled pruners and remove selected stems and leaves.
Propagating Bird of Paradise
The best ways to propagate birds of paradise are division and sowing seeds. Division is easier and quicker than growing from seed. It's best to use mature plants that have been previously blooming for at least three years. Here's how to divide strelitzia.
To propagate by division:
Depending on the size of your plant (and its rhizome or underground root structure), you will need larger instruments like a shovel and saw for in-ground or large plants. For smaller plants, you can use a sharp knife. If potting the division, you will need a new pot and a well-draining potting mix.
You can also remove the new growth or offshoots at the base of the plant that has at least three leaves and divide the rhizome below ground with a shovel, saw, or knife.
Repot in a new container with a well-draining potting mix.
How to Grow Strelitzia From Seed
Be patient when growing strelitzia from seeds. It can take two months for the seeds to germinate. Soak seeds in room-temperature water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. Remove any orange stringy material. Nick the seed with a knife or nail file. Plant the seed in a well-draining potting mix about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and at least 3 inches apart from other seeds. Place the container in a warm, indirect sun location (at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit). Cover with a cloche or plastic wrap, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Once the seedling germinates and produces two to three leaves, transplant to a 6-inch pot. Once your plant reaches 6 inches, it is ready for a more permanent home.
Potting and Repotting Strelitzia
Bird of paradise is a rapidly-growing plant that needs to reach a certain size before it blooms. A bird of paradise that is 3 to 4 feet tall grows well in a 10-inch pot. A 5- to 6-foot plant usually thrives in a 14-inch pot. Repot it every spring into the next-size-up pot.
Once it reaches maturity, allow it to be pot-bound so that it will bloom. You can divide it by the time it has matured or bloomed at least once but do it infrequently since crowded clumps produce the most blooms. Repotting disrupts the bloom cycle.
Overwintering
If it gets below freezing where you live for a prolonged time, you might kill this plant if you do not take it inside for the winter. However, if you live in an area like zone 9, where it only dips low for short periods, you may be able to overwinter your plant outdoors; but it will need help to survive.
To overwinter outdoors, cut the stem and leaves down to just 12 inches above the ground. Cover the entire stem and rhizome area with a layer of mulch, then leaf litter, and straw. Cover that with breathable row cover material and stake it down. As soon as spring arrives and the threat of the last frost is gone, remove the toppings.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Monitor the plant for aphids, scale, and whiteflies.3 If you see them, use insecticidal soap for control and apply it to the undersides of the leaves. Systemic pesticide is also effective. If you use systemic pesticide, the plant will distribute it from its roots through to its leaves and flowers. Bird of paradise is also susceptible to Botrytis cinerea (gray mold).3 Flowers and leaves with this condition will develop dark spots followed by a layer of gray mold. Remove the affected parts of the plant and allow them to air out.
How to Get Strelitzia to Bloom
Once your plant is at least four to five years old, it is mature enough to bloom. To spur flowering, keep it pot-bound. Give it a lot of sun (at least 6 hours of full sunlight or bright light) and feed it on schedule. One of the most common reasons a bird of paradise fails to flower is insufficient light. These plants should also be kept evenly moist throughout summer, but allow them to dry out between watering.
Common Problems With Strelitzia
Strelizia is a relatively easy-going plant with very few issues. It is most prone to root rot and insects that prey on the plant when its optimal conditions are not met. But, if it's not overwatered, kept fed, and given ample light and air circulation—it can keep most problems at bay.
Wilting or Browning of Leaves
The most common disease affecting strelitzia is root rot. When the roots of the plant sit in water or the soil gets soggy for a prolonged amount of time, a fungus that causes root rot can overtake a plant. It can be avoided by letting the soil dry out between waterings. Another sign you have root rot includes a rotting smell. Some plants can be saved if caught early. To fix root rot, pull up the root ball, cutting away blackened, moldy parts of the rhizome, apply a fungicide according to the instructions, and repot in a sterilized container with fresh, well-draining soil.
Curling Leaves
Curling leaves are a sign of underwatering. You can avoid this problem by giving more water and making sure that the water runs freely from the bottom of the pot. This thorough watering ensures that all the roots have access to water, but make sure that the plant doesn't sit in that water. Soggy soil can cause other problems.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellowing leaves can mean several things. First, if the occasion leaf turns yellow, and the plant is a mature plant, it can be the normal life cycle of the leaf of that plant. However, if many leaves begin to yellow it can be a sign that the plant does not have ample humidity, it needs more nutrients, or if the yellowed leaves are toward the outside of the plant, it's not getting sufficiently watered. Increase each of those factors—one at a time—to see if that solves the problem.
Slits or Breaks in the Leaves
This plant's leaves are large. If your strelitzia develops slits or breaks in the leaves, especially if your plant lives outside for some part of the year, it's natural and normal. The plant develops slits to allow the plant to circulate air around its leaves and roots. Wind and breezes contribute to slitting. Air circulation keeps mold and other pests from settling in.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月07日
Beefsteak tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum "Beefsteak") are meaty, juicy fruits perfect for summer sandwiches or as sliced snacks with a sprinkle of sea salt. Large, thickly fleshed beefsteaks are the biggest type of tomatoes, weighing 1 pound or more. Growing quickly to at least 6 feet tall, the late-maturing tomato plant will produce a bountiful harvest in about 85 days. It needs a sturdy cage, trellis, or stake to support its fruit. Learn to grow and care for this abundant plant and welcome a plentiful harvest to your vegetable garden.
Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum "Beefsteak"
Common Name Beefsteak Tomatoes
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Mature Size 6 feet tall or more
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Bloom Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 2-11, USDA
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Foliage (not fruit) is toxic to humans and some pets
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Beefsteak Tomato Care and Trellising
Space tomato plants at least 18 to 36 inches apart. Beefsteak varieties are especially tall and require lots of space and training. For optimal growth and air circulation, space 5 feet or more apart. Tie the plant to a trellis, stake, or cage. They usually grow too tall for a typical tomato cage, so they will need extra support as their baseball-sized fruit can be quite heavy.
Dig a 10- to 12-inch deep hole for each plant and consider using a post-hole digger. Establish a post or stake down the center of the row between the two end posts at each end of the row if end posts are more than 20 feet apart. Posts that are 3 inches in diameter and 6 feet tall are ideal. Replace the dirt and pack it in firmly so that the posts do not fall over.
Wrap a 12-gauge wire around the top of one end post about 6 feet above the soil surface. Nail or staple the end of the wire to the post. Stretch the wire to make it taut, extend it to the next post, and keep the post anchored in place. Tie a second wire between the posts about 12 inches above the ground.
Tie twine to the bottom wire and stretch it to the top wire. Tie the other end to the top. Attach any additional lengths of twine for each plant and space the twine 36 inches apart on the length of the trellis.
Once the trellis system is ready, plant a seedling at the base of each length of twine. Plant each seedling deeper than it was growing in its starter pot. Establish deep enough so that the bottom leaf is just above the soil surface. Do this by planting it straight into the soil or sideways to encourage healthy rooting. Beefsteaks thrive most if planted deeper in the ground rather than being planted in containers.
As the plant grows, you should prune it regularly. As side branches form on the main stem, pinch out "suckers" or new growth when they are young and only 1/2 inch long that form in the crotch of the stronger branches. Do this weekly throughout the growing season to ensure that the plant develops no more than one or two main stems. This will make it easier for the plant to grow on the trellis, and it will slow upward growth and promote better branching. As the stem grows, wrap it around the twine in the same direction each time. Handle the stem carefully so that it doesn't break.
Light
Give beefsteak tomatoes full, direct sunlight 8 hours or more per day. Make sure no shadows are cast by nearby buildings or trees. For best results, grow them on a slight slope with southern or southeastern exposure. A well-drained raised garden bed is especially good in cooler climates because it will warm early in the season.
Soil
As for all tomato plants, provide beefsteaks with well-drained fertile soil that is high in organic matter. Fertile clay and loam produce high yields, while lighter soils drain and warm quickly and will produce earlier harvests. Maintain a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Keep the bed weeded, and mulch between rows of tomatoes to prevent weed overgrowth and to conserve moisture. Black plastic mulch will warm the soil and radiate heat.
Water
After planting, water immediately to moisten and settle the soil. Throughout the growing season, keep tomatoes consistently watered, especially as they begin to fruit. Moisture will prevent fruits from cracking and encourage deep rooting. If it rains less than one inch in a week, be sure to water them well. They will need one to two inches of water weekly. Never let the foliage begin to wilt.
Fertilizer
Before planting, work in compost or other organic amendments. Fertilize plants every three weeks with 1 pound per 100 square feet. Ideal NPK ratios are 8-32-16 or 6-24-24. For smaller gardens, use about one to two level tablespoons of fertilizer per plant every three weeks.
Temperature and Humidity
Plant tomatoes when temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit or ideally above 60 degrees. Since they are warm-weather crops, even a light frost can damage plants. In the event of a potential frost or temperature dip, cover the plants with a frost blanket.
Growing from Seed
Many beefsteak tomato varieties take at least 85 days to harvest. Since this is not possible in much of the United States, it's best to start your own seedlings. Start seedlings indoors six to eight weeks before the first frost of spring when they will be ready to transplant. To extend the fruit-producting season, especially in the southern states, start a second planting of seeds about two or three weeks later. Sow seeds in flats and care for them until they are at least 8 inches tall. Then harden off the seedlings and transplant them after the last spring frost. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can advise you on planting times in your growing zone.
Varieties of Beefsteak Tomato
Beefsteak varieties produce fruits in many colors, including red/burgundy, gold/yellow, green, orange, pink, purple/lavender, and variegated. 'Beefmaster,' 'Big Beef,' and 'Big Boy' are among the most popular and easy to find varieties that have adapted to southern heat. 'Mortgage Lifter' and 'Grosse Lisse' are good choices for very humid areas. if you enjoy heirloom varieties, try 'Red Brandywine', 'Pruden's Purple Tomato', also known as 'Prudence', or 'Chocolate Stripes'.
Common Pests and Diseases
All beefsteak tomato varieties are prone to various diseases and pests. Watch closely for any issues and take care of them as soon as possible. Some common pests are tomato hornworms, aphids, rodents such as squirrels, and flea beetles. Humid weather may cause fungal diseases like early blight and late blight.
To remove any aphids, apply a warm stream of water. You can also handpick and destroy beetles, eggs, and larvae. To protect plants from early flea beetle damage, use row covers. To prevent fungal diseases and blossom end rot, water early in the day at the base of the plant, not overhead, and maintain consistent moisture while avoiding waterlogging the soil. Weeding around beefsteak will also encourage good air circulation. Moving forward, the best way to prevent many of these issues is to practice proper crop rotation.
Botanical Name Solanum lycopersicum "Beefsteak"
Common Name Beefsteak Tomatoes
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Mature Size 6 feet tall or more
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Bloom Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 2-11, USDA
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Foliage (not fruit) is toxic to humans and some pets
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Beefsteak Tomato Care and Trellising
Space tomato plants at least 18 to 36 inches apart. Beefsteak varieties are especially tall and require lots of space and training. For optimal growth and air circulation, space 5 feet or more apart. Tie the plant to a trellis, stake, or cage. They usually grow too tall for a typical tomato cage, so they will need extra support as their baseball-sized fruit can be quite heavy.
Dig a 10- to 12-inch deep hole for each plant and consider using a post-hole digger. Establish a post or stake down the center of the row between the two end posts at each end of the row if end posts are more than 20 feet apart. Posts that are 3 inches in diameter and 6 feet tall are ideal. Replace the dirt and pack it in firmly so that the posts do not fall over.
Wrap a 12-gauge wire around the top of one end post about 6 feet above the soil surface. Nail or staple the end of the wire to the post. Stretch the wire to make it taut, extend it to the next post, and keep the post anchored in place. Tie a second wire between the posts about 12 inches above the ground.
Tie twine to the bottom wire and stretch it to the top wire. Tie the other end to the top. Attach any additional lengths of twine for each plant and space the twine 36 inches apart on the length of the trellis.
Once the trellis system is ready, plant a seedling at the base of each length of twine. Plant each seedling deeper than it was growing in its starter pot. Establish deep enough so that the bottom leaf is just above the soil surface. Do this by planting it straight into the soil or sideways to encourage healthy rooting. Beefsteaks thrive most if planted deeper in the ground rather than being planted in containers.
As the plant grows, you should prune it regularly. As side branches form on the main stem, pinch out "suckers" or new growth when they are young and only 1/2 inch long that form in the crotch of the stronger branches. Do this weekly throughout the growing season to ensure that the plant develops no more than one or two main stems. This will make it easier for the plant to grow on the trellis, and it will slow upward growth and promote better branching. As the stem grows, wrap it around the twine in the same direction each time. Handle the stem carefully so that it doesn't break.
Light
Give beefsteak tomatoes full, direct sunlight 8 hours or more per day. Make sure no shadows are cast by nearby buildings or trees. For best results, grow them on a slight slope with southern or southeastern exposure. A well-drained raised garden bed is especially good in cooler climates because it will warm early in the season.
Soil
As for all tomato plants, provide beefsteaks with well-drained fertile soil that is high in organic matter. Fertile clay and loam produce high yields, while lighter soils drain and warm quickly and will produce earlier harvests. Maintain a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Keep the bed weeded, and mulch between rows of tomatoes to prevent weed overgrowth and to conserve moisture. Black plastic mulch will warm the soil and radiate heat.
Water
After planting, water immediately to moisten and settle the soil. Throughout the growing season, keep tomatoes consistently watered, especially as they begin to fruit. Moisture will prevent fruits from cracking and encourage deep rooting. If it rains less than one inch in a week, be sure to water them well. They will need one to two inches of water weekly. Never let the foliage begin to wilt.
Fertilizer
Before planting, work in compost or other organic amendments. Fertilize plants every three weeks with 1 pound per 100 square feet. Ideal NPK ratios are 8-32-16 or 6-24-24. For smaller gardens, use about one to two level tablespoons of fertilizer per plant every three weeks.
Temperature and Humidity
Plant tomatoes when temperatures are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit or ideally above 60 degrees. Since they are warm-weather crops, even a light frost can damage plants. In the event of a potential frost or temperature dip, cover the plants with a frost blanket.
Growing from Seed
Many beefsteak tomato varieties take at least 85 days to harvest. Since this is not possible in much of the United States, it's best to start your own seedlings. Start seedlings indoors six to eight weeks before the first frost of spring when they will be ready to transplant. To extend the fruit-producting season, especially in the southern states, start a second planting of seeds about two or three weeks later. Sow seeds in flats and care for them until they are at least 8 inches tall. Then harden off the seedlings and transplant them after the last spring frost. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can advise you on planting times in your growing zone.
Varieties of Beefsteak Tomato
Beefsteak varieties produce fruits in many colors, including red/burgundy, gold/yellow, green, orange, pink, purple/lavender, and variegated. 'Beefmaster,' 'Big Beef,' and 'Big Boy' are among the most popular and easy to find varieties that have adapted to southern heat. 'Mortgage Lifter' and 'Grosse Lisse' are good choices for very humid areas. if you enjoy heirloom varieties, try 'Red Brandywine', 'Pruden's Purple Tomato', also known as 'Prudence', or 'Chocolate Stripes'.
Common Pests and Diseases
All beefsteak tomato varieties are prone to various diseases and pests. Watch closely for any issues and take care of them as soon as possible. Some common pests are tomato hornworms, aphids, rodents such as squirrels, and flea beetles. Humid weather may cause fungal diseases like early blight and late blight.
To remove any aphids, apply a warm stream of water. You can also handpick and destroy beetles, eggs, and larvae. To protect plants from early flea beetle damage, use row covers. To prevent fungal diseases and blossom end rot, water early in the day at the base of the plant, not overhead, and maintain consistent moisture while avoiding waterlogging the soil. Weeding around beefsteak will also encourage good air circulation. Moving forward, the best way to prevent many of these issues is to practice proper crop rotation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月05日
Becky shasta daisies (Leucanthemum x superbum 'Becky') are a cultivar of the hybrid shasta daisies. They grow larger than several of the other shasta cultivars, sporting many long-lasting, showy flowers that stretch roughly 3 to 4 inches across. The blooms have a classic daisy look with white petals around a central bright yellow disk. Becky shasta daisies rise up on rigid stems that bear leathery, lance-shaped green leaves. These flowers have a fast growth rate and can be aggressive spreaders in the garden if you let them freely sow their seeds. They can be planted in the spring or early fall.
Botanical Name Leucanthemum x superbum 'Becky'
Common Name Becky shasta daisy
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 3–4 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White with a yellow center
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Area Hybrid developed in North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Becky Shasta Daisy Care
When provided with the proper growing conditions, Becky shasta daisies don’t require much care. Even though these flowers grow fairly tall, they typically don’t require staking due to their rigid stems. They’re commonly used as borders, in mixed flower beds, and in cutting gardens (as they make a wonderfully long-lasting cut flower).
When the daisies are in bloom, deadheading (removing spent blooms) can help to promote additional flowering. Plus, removing the flower heads before they go to seed will prevent unwanted spread of the plants. Furthermore, every two to three years, plan to divide your plants to maintain their vigor. Simply dig up a clump and break it apart at its roots, keeping as many as possible intact. Then, replant the smaller clumps wherever you wish.
Light
Plant Becky shasta daisies in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. This will result in the best flowering on the plants. However, in climates with especially hot summers, some light shade in the afternoon can be beneficial for the daisies. But if they are starting to look leggy, that can mean they aren't getting enough sun.
Soil
These flowers aren’t picky about their soil type as long as it has good drainage. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot and ultimately be fatal to the plants.
Water
Becky shasta daisies have low to moderate water requirements, and they have fairly good drought tolerance. During their first growing season, water your daisies regularly to keep the soil lightly moist (but ensure that it doesn’t get soggy). After that, you typically will only need to water during prolonged periods of drought when your plants have noticeable signs of wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. But extremely high temperatures can stress the plants and hinder their blooming. Likewise, a late frost or freeze in the spring can injure the buds and prevent some blooming. A layer of mulch around the daisies can help to protect the roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. Humidity typically isn't an issue for Becky shasta daisies as long as they have good soil drainage.
Fertilizer
Becky shasta daisies typically don't need fertilizer unless you have very lean soil. But it can be beneficial to work some compost into the soil around your plants annually in the spring.
Shasta Daisy Varieties
There are multiple cultivars of shasta daisies besides 'Becky' including:
‘Esther Read’: This variety has pure white double flowers (having extra petals) with yellow centers.
‘Silberprinzesschen’: A compact plant, it only grows up to a foot tall but features profuse blooms that stretch about 3 inches across.
‘Snow Lady’: This is another compact variety that only reaches around a foot high and features the classic white daisy flowers, which stretch roughly 2.5 inches across.
‘Wirral Pride’: Double flowers adorn this variety which reaches around 1.5 to 2 feet tall.
Common Pests/Diseases
These daisies occasionally come down with a fungal disease called verticillium wilt, in which the plants quickly wilt and sometimes turn yellow first. It’s recommended to remove and destroy plants with this disease. They also are susceptible to leaf spot, a fungal disease that causes spots and damage to the foliage. This can be treated with a fungicide. Some common garden pests that might visit Becky shasta daisies include aphids and leaf miners, which can be treated with neem oil.
Botanical Name Leucanthemum x superbum 'Becky'
Common Name Becky shasta daisy
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 3–4 ft. tall, 2–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White with a yellow center
Hardiness Zones 5–9 (USDA)
Native Area Hybrid developed in North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Becky Shasta Daisy Care
When provided with the proper growing conditions, Becky shasta daisies don’t require much care. Even though these flowers grow fairly tall, they typically don’t require staking due to their rigid stems. They’re commonly used as borders, in mixed flower beds, and in cutting gardens (as they make a wonderfully long-lasting cut flower).
When the daisies are in bloom, deadheading (removing spent blooms) can help to promote additional flowering. Plus, removing the flower heads before they go to seed will prevent unwanted spread of the plants. Furthermore, every two to three years, plan to divide your plants to maintain their vigor. Simply dig up a clump and break it apart at its roots, keeping as many as possible intact. Then, replant the smaller clumps wherever you wish.
Light
Plant Becky shasta daisies in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. This will result in the best flowering on the plants. However, in climates with especially hot summers, some light shade in the afternoon can be beneficial for the daisies. But if they are starting to look leggy, that can mean they aren't getting enough sun.
Soil
These flowers aren’t picky about their soil type as long as it has good drainage. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot and ultimately be fatal to the plants.
Water
Becky shasta daisies have low to moderate water requirements, and they have fairly good drought tolerance. During their first growing season, water your daisies regularly to keep the soil lightly moist (but ensure that it doesn’t get soggy). After that, you typically will only need to water during prolonged periods of drought when your plants have noticeable signs of wilt.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants have fairly good heat and cold tolerance within their growing zones. But extremely high temperatures can stress the plants and hinder their blooming. Likewise, a late frost or freeze in the spring can injure the buds and prevent some blooming. A layer of mulch around the daisies can help to protect the roots from extreme temperature fluctuations. Humidity typically isn't an issue for Becky shasta daisies as long as they have good soil drainage.
Fertilizer
Becky shasta daisies typically don't need fertilizer unless you have very lean soil. But it can be beneficial to work some compost into the soil around your plants annually in the spring.
Shasta Daisy Varieties
There are multiple cultivars of shasta daisies besides 'Becky' including:
‘Esther Read’: This variety has pure white double flowers (having extra petals) with yellow centers.
‘Silberprinzesschen’: A compact plant, it only grows up to a foot tall but features profuse blooms that stretch about 3 inches across.
‘Snow Lady’: This is another compact variety that only reaches around a foot high and features the classic white daisy flowers, which stretch roughly 2.5 inches across.
‘Wirral Pride’: Double flowers adorn this variety which reaches around 1.5 to 2 feet tall.
Common Pests/Diseases
These daisies occasionally come down with a fungal disease called verticillium wilt, in which the plants quickly wilt and sometimes turn yellow first. It’s recommended to remove and destroy plants with this disease. They also are susceptible to leaf spot, a fungal disease that causes spots and damage to the foliage. This can be treated with a fungicide. Some common garden pests that might visit Becky shasta daisies include aphids and leaf miners, which can be treated with neem oil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月30日
The black bat flower is an exotic looking, unusual plant that is somewhat difficult to grow, but rewarding for its unusual shape, texture and color in the garden. True to its common name, the bat flower looks like a bat with its wing shaped bracts and seed pods that look a bit like bat faces. It is an understory plant native to the forests of Asia and Australia, and grows best in a semi-tropical environment.
It is sometimes also referred to as tiger beard, due to its long bracteoles which look like whiskers. The purple variety is a dark dusky color that ranges from maroon to purple, but often looks black. There is also a white flowering variety (Tacca integrifolia) that grows twice as large as the black one. Dramatic in the garden, bat flowers do not really survive long in a vase and so aren't really useful as cut flowers. The bat flower will bloom from late spring through early fall with new blooms appearing repeatedly throughout the season.
Botanical Name Tacca chantrieri
Common Name Bat flower
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 36 inches tall, 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Partial sun to dappled shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.1 to 7.5
Bloom Time Late summer through fall
Flower Color Black (dark purple), white (Tacca integrifolia))
Hardiness Zones 9b to 11
Native Areas Asia, Australia
How to Grow Bat Flower
While this is a fairly tropical plant, it does do well in some parts of the United States, and can be grown successfully in Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and parts of California, wherever a moist, warm environment can be found. It may be necessary to create a small micro climate that is hospitable to this somewhat delicate plant. The bat flower is generally not vulnerable to pests, other than the usual slugs and snails one finds in a tropical garden.
Light
The bat flower requires warm temperatures but prefers a shady location. Plant where it will get indirect light, on the north side of a house, preferably in a setting with additional tropical understory plants.
Soil
Bat flower needs a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Amending soil with peat moss, pine bark, and compost may prove necessary. For container growing, use a rich potting medium with 50 percent soil, 40 percent amendments and 10 percent sand for good drainage.
Water
After planting, keep the soil moist and water consistently. Bat flowers should not be allowed to dry out for too long. But make sure the planting location has good drainage.
Fertilizer
Black bat flowers benefit from fertilizing. Using a liquid fertilizer suitable for orchids is appropriate, applied every week, or use a general slow release fertilizer.
Temperature and Humidity
Since bat flowers are a semi-tropical plant, they do not withstand cold temperatures. If the temperature goes below 55F, bat flowers may die. They are happiest when the temperature is between 70 and 80 degrees. They can also be grown indoors but a consistently moist environment should be provided. Using a plant mister and having a humidifier will help ensure the bat flower gets the moisture it needs.
Propagating Bat Flower
The bat flower may be propagated from seeds that have been allowed to dry well, but they will take some time to germinate. Harvesting the seeds from the plant requires waiting until the seed pod has matured and split open. Bat flower can also be propagated from a tuberous root or rhizome cutting. Divide these rhizomes in the fall, and plant three feet apart. You can also order rhizomes from a catalog. Be patient when propagating, as the rhizomes need to reach a large enough size before they will form flowers.
Growing in Containers
It's possible to grow black bat flower in containers. If keeping them indoors, locate them near a window where the light is indirect. They also appreciate decent air circulation, as opposed to a closed greenhouse environment. Don't allow the plant to become root bound; keep an eye on it and repot into a bigger container as needed. Repotting once every year is a good rule of thumb. A wide shallow pot works best. You can put the containers outside in the summer, but avoid placing them in direct sunlight.
It is sometimes also referred to as tiger beard, due to its long bracteoles which look like whiskers. The purple variety is a dark dusky color that ranges from maroon to purple, but often looks black. There is also a white flowering variety (Tacca integrifolia) that grows twice as large as the black one. Dramatic in the garden, bat flowers do not really survive long in a vase and so aren't really useful as cut flowers. The bat flower will bloom from late spring through early fall with new blooms appearing repeatedly throughout the season.
Botanical Name Tacca chantrieri
Common Name Bat flower
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 36 inches tall, 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Partial sun to dappled shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.1 to 7.5
Bloom Time Late summer through fall
Flower Color Black (dark purple), white (Tacca integrifolia))
Hardiness Zones 9b to 11
Native Areas Asia, Australia
How to Grow Bat Flower
While this is a fairly tropical plant, it does do well in some parts of the United States, and can be grown successfully in Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and parts of California, wherever a moist, warm environment can be found. It may be necessary to create a small micro climate that is hospitable to this somewhat delicate plant. The bat flower is generally not vulnerable to pests, other than the usual slugs and snails one finds in a tropical garden.
Light
The bat flower requires warm temperatures but prefers a shady location. Plant where it will get indirect light, on the north side of a house, preferably in a setting with additional tropical understory plants.
Soil
Bat flower needs a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Amending soil with peat moss, pine bark, and compost may prove necessary. For container growing, use a rich potting medium with 50 percent soil, 40 percent amendments and 10 percent sand for good drainage.
Water
After planting, keep the soil moist and water consistently. Bat flowers should not be allowed to dry out for too long. But make sure the planting location has good drainage.
Fertilizer
Black bat flowers benefit from fertilizing. Using a liquid fertilizer suitable for orchids is appropriate, applied every week, or use a general slow release fertilizer.
Temperature and Humidity
Since bat flowers are a semi-tropical plant, they do not withstand cold temperatures. If the temperature goes below 55F, bat flowers may die. They are happiest when the temperature is between 70 and 80 degrees. They can also be grown indoors but a consistently moist environment should be provided. Using a plant mister and having a humidifier will help ensure the bat flower gets the moisture it needs.
Propagating Bat Flower
The bat flower may be propagated from seeds that have been allowed to dry well, but they will take some time to germinate. Harvesting the seeds from the plant requires waiting until the seed pod has matured and split open. Bat flower can also be propagated from a tuberous root or rhizome cutting. Divide these rhizomes in the fall, and plant three feet apart. You can also order rhizomes from a catalog. Be patient when propagating, as the rhizomes need to reach a large enough size before they will form flowers.
Growing in Containers
It's possible to grow black bat flower in containers. If keeping them indoors, locate them near a window where the light is indirect. They also appreciate decent air circulation, as opposed to a closed greenhouse environment. Don't allow the plant to become root bound; keep an eye on it and repot into a bigger container as needed. Repotting once every year is a good rule of thumb. A wide shallow pot works best. You can put the containers outside in the summer, but avoid placing them in direct sunlight.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月24日
Despite its name, bamboo palms (Chamaedorea seifrizii) are not bamboo at all but are a type of palm in the Araceae family. These tropical plants are native to Mexico and Central America and grow naturally as forest understory plants. They are ideal houseplants that can add a tropical feel to any room. Plus, they are listed on NASA's clean air varieties list
8 Palms Plants to Grow Indoors
Botanical Name Chamaedorea seifrizii
Common Name Bamboo palm
Plant Type Perennial, clustered parlour palm, reed palm, cane palm
Mature Size 4-12 ft. tall, 3-5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange
Hardiness Zones 10-11, USA
Native Area Central America
Bamboo Palm Care
Bamboo palms are popular houseplants because they are low-maintenance and they do well in a variety of lighting conditions. They do require consistent moisture, so if you tend to under-water your plants you may want to skip this palm.
Light
Bamboo palms are the perfect tropical plant for medium to low-light conditions. Unlike other palms, they do not require bright light in order to thrive. They do well in a variety of light conditions ranging from low light to bright light, and can even tolerate being placed in north-facing windows. Avoid hot, direct sunlight as it will burn their delicate leaves.
Soil
Moist but well-draining soil is best for bamboo palms. Soil that is porous but humus-rich is ideal. Amending standard potting soil with peat moss, orchid bark, and perlite is a great DIY soil mix for bamboo palms.
Water
The soil of bamboo palms should be kept evenly moist, but never waterlogged. Bamboo palms are sensitive to both overwatering and under-watering, but it is always best to under-water rather than overwater. Allow the top of the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical palms enjoy warm temperatures and humid environments and are hardy in USDA zones 10-11. They are not frost-tolerant. Bamboo palms do well in typical household temperature and humidity levels but appreciate extra humidity where possible. Placing your palm near a humidifier or on a pebble tray will help to increase the humidity around the plant.
Fertilizer
Bamboo palms should be fertilized during the growing season to help encourage healthy growth. Granular, time-release fertilizers work best. Spread the fertilizer on top of the potting medium and ensure that you water it in. Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter when the plant is in dormancy.
Pruning Bamboo Palms
These palms are low-maintenance and rarely need pruning. Consistently tidying up any dried, brown leaves or leaf tips will help keep the plant looking healthy and attractive.
Propagating Bamboo Palms
Bamboo palms are sensitive to trauma and can be tricky to propagate. Mature bamboo palms produce offshoots that can be separated and established as new plants.
Use a clean, sharp knife to separate offshoots from the mother plant. If the offshoots have their own root systems (which they should), ensure that you separate those as well. Pot the offshoots in loamy, well-draining soil and keep them in a consistently humid environment until established (approximately 2-3 months).
Potting and Repotting Bamboo Palms
Bamboo palms should be repotted once they have outgrown their previous container. They tend to be slow-growing so you should not need to repot them too often. Keep in mind that the plant will grow as large as the pot you give it—so if you want to keep your bamboo palm small, don’t increase the pot size very much when you repot. This will help to control the size of the palm.
Common Pests/Diseases
Bamboo palms are susceptible to a range of common houseplant pests such as mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies, fungus gnats, and scale. These pests can be mitigated with insecticide treatments if necessary. Be sure to regularly check over your bamboo palm for pests to help catch any infestations early.
8 Palms Plants to Grow Indoors
Botanical Name Chamaedorea seifrizii
Common Name Bamboo palm
Plant Type Perennial, clustered parlour palm, reed palm, cane palm
Mature Size 4-12 ft. tall, 3-5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange
Hardiness Zones 10-11, USA
Native Area Central America
Bamboo Palm Care
Bamboo palms are popular houseplants because they are low-maintenance and they do well in a variety of lighting conditions. They do require consistent moisture, so if you tend to under-water your plants you may want to skip this palm.
Light
Bamboo palms are the perfect tropical plant for medium to low-light conditions. Unlike other palms, they do not require bright light in order to thrive. They do well in a variety of light conditions ranging from low light to bright light, and can even tolerate being placed in north-facing windows. Avoid hot, direct sunlight as it will burn their delicate leaves.
Soil
Moist but well-draining soil is best for bamboo palms. Soil that is porous but humus-rich is ideal. Amending standard potting soil with peat moss, orchid bark, and perlite is a great DIY soil mix for bamboo palms.
Water
The soil of bamboo palms should be kept evenly moist, but never waterlogged. Bamboo palms are sensitive to both overwatering and under-watering, but it is always best to under-water rather than overwater. Allow the top of the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical palms enjoy warm temperatures and humid environments and are hardy in USDA zones 10-11. They are not frost-tolerant. Bamboo palms do well in typical household temperature and humidity levels but appreciate extra humidity where possible. Placing your palm near a humidifier or on a pebble tray will help to increase the humidity around the plant.
Fertilizer
Bamboo palms should be fertilized during the growing season to help encourage healthy growth. Granular, time-release fertilizers work best. Spread the fertilizer on top of the potting medium and ensure that you water it in. Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter when the plant is in dormancy.
Pruning Bamboo Palms
These palms are low-maintenance and rarely need pruning. Consistently tidying up any dried, brown leaves or leaf tips will help keep the plant looking healthy and attractive.
Propagating Bamboo Palms
Bamboo palms are sensitive to trauma and can be tricky to propagate. Mature bamboo palms produce offshoots that can be separated and established as new plants.
Use a clean, sharp knife to separate offshoots from the mother plant. If the offshoots have their own root systems (which they should), ensure that you separate those as well. Pot the offshoots in loamy, well-draining soil and keep them in a consistently humid environment until established (approximately 2-3 months).
Potting and Repotting Bamboo Palms
Bamboo palms should be repotted once they have outgrown their previous container. They tend to be slow-growing so you should not need to repot them too often. Keep in mind that the plant will grow as large as the pot you give it—so if you want to keep your bamboo palm small, don’t increase the pot size very much when you repot. This will help to control the size of the palm.
Common Pests/Diseases
Bamboo palms are susceptible to a range of common houseplant pests such as mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies, fungus gnats, and scale. These pests can be mitigated with insecticide treatments if necessary. Be sure to regularly check over your bamboo palm for pests to help catch any infestations early.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月22日
The common name bamboo is applied to over a thousand plant species. In the wild, several of these species can grow to towering heights of 50 feet or more. However, it is possible to grow certain types of bamboo in containers—even indoors. Golden bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea) is one of those species. This bamboo features bright green upright canes that turn to a golden color with age and sunlight exposure. Its narrow, lance-shaped leaves grow in clusters on short stems off of the canes. The plant grows quickly and can easily spread throughout a garden if you let it. Thus, planting it in a pot is ideal to keep it contained. It won’t grow as large, but that means it will be much more manageable. It’s best planted in the spring or early fall, though indoors you generally can plant it any time of year.
Botanical Name Phyllostachys aurea
Common Names Bamboo, golden bamboo, fishpole bamboo, monk’s belly bamboo, fairyland bamboo
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 15–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide (outdoors), 5–8 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Nonflowering
Flower Color Nonflowering
Hardiness Zones 6–10 (USDA)
Native Area China
Bamboo Care
Bamboo is usually a low-maintenance, hardy plant. It rarely has issues with pests or diseases, and it typically doesn’t require pruning. You can remove old canes at their base if they begin to look unsightly. And you also can remove new shoots as they pop up from the soil if you want to limit your plant’s growth.
Regular watering and feeding will make up the bulk of your plant maintenance. To maintain the soil moisture bamboo likes, you might have to water your container plant more than once a week. But especially for an indoor plant where the climate doesn’t change drastically, you should be able to establish a predictable care routine fairly easily.
Light
Bamboo prefers a spot that gets full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can result in a weak plant that does not grow to its fullest potential or develop its brilliant color. Indoors, keep your bamboo by your brightest window, and rotate the pot every week or so to be sure all sides of the plant get light.
Soil
This plant can tolerate a variety of soil types, but it prefers organically rich soil with good drainage. A quality commercial potting mix should be fine for container plants.
Water
Bamboo has some drought tolerance once it’s established, and it can handle soggy soil for a short time. However, sitting in pooled water can ultimately rot the roots and kill the plant. The plant ideally should have evenly moist soil. Test the soil by sticking your finger an inch or two in it and watering whenever it feels dry. Never let the soil dry out completely. But during the winter months, slightly cut back on watering.
Temperature and Humidity
This species of bamboo is known for its cold tolerance. It can survive temperatures even around 5 degrees Fahrenheit for short amounts of time. However, cold weather can cause the plant to drop foliage and might eventually kill it. The plant will thrive in typical indoor temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it away from cold drafts, such as those from an air conditioner, as well as from drying heat vents. These plants prefer fairly humid air but can tolerate some indoor dryness as long as you keep them well watered.
Fertilizer
To maintain an optimal amount of nutrients in your container plant’s soil, feed your bamboo with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month, following label instructions. It also can be helpful to mix some organic compost into the soil, especially in the spring, to promote healthy plant growth.
Potting and Repotting Bamboo
When starting with a small nursery bamboo plant, choose a container that is at least 12 inches wide and deep. Pick a pot made from a heavy material to anchor the weight of the bamboo canes. You can even add some rocks or gravel to the bottom if you feel the container isn’t sturdy enough to anchor the plant’s weight. Also, make sure the container has ample drainage holes.
Place the root ball in the pot, and fill in around it with a loose, nutrient-rich potting mix. If you wish, mix in some compost at this time to encourage growth. Then, water the bamboo well.
You likely will have to move your bamboo to a larger pot every year or two once the roots have spread through the entire pot and you see them coming out the holes in the bottom or poking up out of the soil on top. Don’t allow your plant to remain in a pot that’s too small for it for very long, as it won’t be able to get enough nutrients to remain healthy. An indoor plant typically will do fine being repotted at any time of year, but at the start of the growing season in the spring when the plant is revving up its growth is generally the best time for repotting.
Bamboo Varieties
There are several varieties of Phyllostachys aurea, including:
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Flavescens Inversa’: Some lower sections of the canes of this variety can have a yellow stripe.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Holochrysa’: The canes of this variety often turn golden faster than others of the species.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’: This variety has canes that turn yellow with green stripes.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Takemurai’: This variety tends to grow larger than other plants of the species.
Botanical Name Phyllostachys aurea
Common Names Bamboo, golden bamboo, fishpole bamboo, monk’s belly bamboo, fairyland bamboo
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 15–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide (outdoors), 5–8 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Nonflowering
Flower Color Nonflowering
Hardiness Zones 6–10 (USDA)
Native Area China
Bamboo Care
Bamboo is usually a low-maintenance, hardy plant. It rarely has issues with pests or diseases, and it typically doesn’t require pruning. You can remove old canes at their base if they begin to look unsightly. And you also can remove new shoots as they pop up from the soil if you want to limit your plant’s growth.
Regular watering and feeding will make up the bulk of your plant maintenance. To maintain the soil moisture bamboo likes, you might have to water your container plant more than once a week. But especially for an indoor plant where the climate doesn’t change drastically, you should be able to establish a predictable care routine fairly easily.
Light
Bamboo prefers a spot that gets full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can result in a weak plant that does not grow to its fullest potential or develop its brilliant color. Indoors, keep your bamboo by your brightest window, and rotate the pot every week or so to be sure all sides of the plant get light.
Soil
This plant can tolerate a variety of soil types, but it prefers organically rich soil with good drainage. A quality commercial potting mix should be fine for container plants.
Water
Bamboo has some drought tolerance once it’s established, and it can handle soggy soil for a short time. However, sitting in pooled water can ultimately rot the roots and kill the plant. The plant ideally should have evenly moist soil. Test the soil by sticking your finger an inch or two in it and watering whenever it feels dry. Never let the soil dry out completely. But during the winter months, slightly cut back on watering.
Temperature and Humidity
This species of bamboo is known for its cold tolerance. It can survive temperatures even around 5 degrees Fahrenheit for short amounts of time. However, cold weather can cause the plant to drop foliage and might eventually kill it. The plant will thrive in typical indoor temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it away from cold drafts, such as those from an air conditioner, as well as from drying heat vents. These plants prefer fairly humid air but can tolerate some indoor dryness as long as you keep them well watered.
Fertilizer
To maintain an optimal amount of nutrients in your container plant’s soil, feed your bamboo with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month, following label instructions. It also can be helpful to mix some organic compost into the soil, especially in the spring, to promote healthy plant growth.
Potting and Repotting Bamboo
When starting with a small nursery bamboo plant, choose a container that is at least 12 inches wide and deep. Pick a pot made from a heavy material to anchor the weight of the bamboo canes. You can even add some rocks or gravel to the bottom if you feel the container isn’t sturdy enough to anchor the plant’s weight. Also, make sure the container has ample drainage holes.
Place the root ball in the pot, and fill in around it with a loose, nutrient-rich potting mix. If you wish, mix in some compost at this time to encourage growth. Then, water the bamboo well.
You likely will have to move your bamboo to a larger pot every year or two once the roots have spread through the entire pot and you see them coming out the holes in the bottom or poking up out of the soil on top. Don’t allow your plant to remain in a pot that’s too small for it for very long, as it won’t be able to get enough nutrients to remain healthy. An indoor plant typically will do fine being repotted at any time of year, but at the start of the growing season in the spring when the plant is revving up its growth is generally the best time for repotting.
Bamboo Varieties
There are several varieties of Phyllostachys aurea, including:
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Flavescens Inversa’: Some lower sections of the canes of this variety can have a yellow stripe.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Holochrysa’: The canes of this variety often turn golden faster than others of the species.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’: This variety has canes that turn yellow with green stripes.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Takemurai’: This variety tends to grow larger than other plants of the species.
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Miss Chen
2021年09月21日
Balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus) are clump-forming perennials and members of the easy-to-grow bellflower family of plants although the blooms do not resemble bells. Instead, puffy, balloon-like buds swell up to produce the 2- to 3-inch star-shaped flowers. This easy-grower blooms all summer long with intense blue-violet flowers, but there are also cultivars with white and pink blooms. Balloon flowers are generally planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed, growing quickly to bloom in the first year.
Common Name Balloon flower, Chinese bellflower, Japanese bellflower
Botanical Name Platycodon grandiflorus
Family Campanulaceae (bellflower)
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1– 2 1/2 ft. tall, 1–1 1/2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, loamy, medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 5.5–7.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue-violet, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, Japan, Russia
Balloon Flower Care
Balloon flowers make excellent plants for border gardens or rock gardens and the blooms attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies thanks to their wide-open petals. These perennials will self-sow their seed, though they aren't aggressive spreaders. Overall, balloon flowers are fairly low-maintenance plants and are quite pest- and disease-resistant outside of root rot in areas with large amounts of rainfall.1
The taller varieties of balloon flowers can become a bit floppy. You can stake them or plant them in clumps to let them support one another. Start with nursery plants or grow your balloon flowers from seed.
Light
You will get the most flowers if you plant balloon flowers in full sun (at least six hours of sunlight on most days). However, they will be fine in part shade and might actually prefer some shade from where the afternoon sun is especially hot.
Soil
Balloon flowers prefer organically rich, loamy soil that has good drainage. They don’t grow well in dense soil, such as clay. They like a soil pH in the 5.5 to 7.5 range.
Water
Keep the soil of young plants consistently moist but not soggy. Once established, balloon flowers like a moderate amount of moisture in the soil, but they can tolerate short periods of drought. They won’t need a lot of supplemental watering unless you have a long period without rainfall that causes the soil to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
Balloon flowers are hardy and do well in USDA growing zones 3 to 8. Their ideal temperature range is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but they can withstand higher temperatures if they have some shade in the afternoon. Frost can kill young plants and will cause established plants to die back into the ground in the fall. Balloon flowers tolerate both humid and dry air conditions, provided they have the right amount of soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Balloon flowers typically don't need supplemental feeding if you have rich soil. But a layer of compost in the fall can help them replenish the energy they expend blooming during the growing season. If you have poor soil, use an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in early spring.
Types of Balloon Flowers
There are several popular varieties of balloon flowers, including:
Platycodon grandiflorus Astra series: This type grows double flowers with 10 petals in blue, pink, or white. They're an ideal choice to start from seeds.
P. grandiflorus Fuji series: This is the most commonly sold variety, as well as the tallest, with 30-inch stems and flowers in blue, pink, or white.
P. grandiflorus 'Komachi': The purple-blue flowers in this variety stay in their puffy pillow stage even after blooming.
P. 'Sentimental Blue': This dwarf variety grows about 6 inches tall with lots of 1- to 2-inch purple flowers.
Pruning
Pruning generally isn't necessary with balloon flowers, though you can do so for appearance. To achieve stockier plants, you can cut back tall stems by about half in the late spring. This can help to prevent the plants from flopping over. Also, deadheading your plants (removing spent blooms) will keep them looking good and repeatedly blooming. Don't remove the whole stem, just the faded flowers. The remaining buds on the stem will continue to open.
Propagating Balloon Flowers
Propagating by division is generally not recommended for balloon flowers because the deep taproots do not like being disturbed. Instead, you can propagate by taking stem cuttings.
Use sterile, sharp pruners to trim a 4-inch length of stem, and remove the lower foliage to expose the bare stem.
Use a rooting hormone on the bare stem if you wish, and then pot it in moist soil.
Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) as you wait for roots to take hold.
Once you see leaf growth and feel resistance when you give the cutting a gentle tug, you’ll know roots have grown. Then, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the garden.
How to Grow Balloon Flowers From Seed
Start seeds indoors in the early spring about six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, using seed starter mix or ordinary potting soil. Barely cover the seeds with 1/16 inch of soil. Place the container in a warm location until the seeds germinate. After the weather has warmed, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors. If you plant seeds directly in your garden, do so after your last frost date, but know they likely won't flower in their first year.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Balloon flowers generally attract slugs and snails, as do many other outdoor bloomers, which can be coaxed off the plants with bait. However, the plant may become afflicted with crown rot, root rot, botrytis gray mold, powdery mildew, or fungal leaf spot. Crown and root rot may cause plants to die over the winter. Leaves presenting powdery spots, mottling, or blotching can usually be treated with a fungicide. Quickly discard plants with gray mold so it doesn't spread, then use a preventative fungicide on remaining plants.
Common Name Balloon flower, Chinese bellflower, Japanese bellflower
Botanical Name Platycodon grandiflorus
Family Campanulaceae (bellflower)
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1– 2 1/2 ft. tall, 1–1 1/2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, loamy, medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 5.5–7.5 (acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue-violet, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area China, Korea, Japan, Russia
Balloon Flower Care
Balloon flowers make excellent plants for border gardens or rock gardens and the blooms attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies thanks to their wide-open petals. These perennials will self-sow their seed, though they aren't aggressive spreaders. Overall, balloon flowers are fairly low-maintenance plants and are quite pest- and disease-resistant outside of root rot in areas with large amounts of rainfall.1
The taller varieties of balloon flowers can become a bit floppy. You can stake them or plant them in clumps to let them support one another. Start with nursery plants or grow your balloon flowers from seed.
Light
You will get the most flowers if you plant balloon flowers in full sun (at least six hours of sunlight on most days). However, they will be fine in part shade and might actually prefer some shade from where the afternoon sun is especially hot.
Soil
Balloon flowers prefer organically rich, loamy soil that has good drainage. They don’t grow well in dense soil, such as clay. They like a soil pH in the 5.5 to 7.5 range.
Water
Keep the soil of young plants consistently moist but not soggy. Once established, balloon flowers like a moderate amount of moisture in the soil, but they can tolerate short periods of drought. They won’t need a lot of supplemental watering unless you have a long period without rainfall that causes the soil to dry out.
Temperature and Humidity
Balloon flowers are hardy and do well in USDA growing zones 3 to 8. Their ideal temperature range is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but they can withstand higher temperatures if they have some shade in the afternoon. Frost can kill young plants and will cause established plants to die back into the ground in the fall. Balloon flowers tolerate both humid and dry air conditions, provided they have the right amount of soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Balloon flowers typically don't need supplemental feeding if you have rich soil. But a layer of compost in the fall can help them replenish the energy they expend blooming during the growing season. If you have poor soil, use an all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in early spring.
Types of Balloon Flowers
There are several popular varieties of balloon flowers, including:
Platycodon grandiflorus Astra series: This type grows double flowers with 10 petals in blue, pink, or white. They're an ideal choice to start from seeds.
P. grandiflorus Fuji series: This is the most commonly sold variety, as well as the tallest, with 30-inch stems and flowers in blue, pink, or white.
P. grandiflorus 'Komachi': The purple-blue flowers in this variety stay in their puffy pillow stage even after blooming.
P. 'Sentimental Blue': This dwarf variety grows about 6 inches tall with lots of 1- to 2-inch purple flowers.
Pruning
Pruning generally isn't necessary with balloon flowers, though you can do so for appearance. To achieve stockier plants, you can cut back tall stems by about half in the late spring. This can help to prevent the plants from flopping over. Also, deadheading your plants (removing spent blooms) will keep them looking good and repeatedly blooming. Don't remove the whole stem, just the faded flowers. The remaining buds on the stem will continue to open.
Propagating Balloon Flowers
Propagating by division is generally not recommended for balloon flowers because the deep taproots do not like being disturbed. Instead, you can propagate by taking stem cuttings.
Use sterile, sharp pruners to trim a 4-inch length of stem, and remove the lower foliage to expose the bare stem.
Use a rooting hormone on the bare stem if you wish, and then pot it in moist soil.
Keep the soil moist (but not soggy) as you wait for roots to take hold.
Once you see leaf growth and feel resistance when you give the cutting a gentle tug, you’ll know roots have grown. Then, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the garden.
How to Grow Balloon Flowers From Seed
Start seeds indoors in the early spring about six to eight weeks before your area's projected last frost date, using seed starter mix or ordinary potting soil. Barely cover the seeds with 1/16 inch of soil. Place the container in a warm location until the seeds germinate. After the weather has warmed, you can transplant the seedlings outdoors. If you plant seeds directly in your garden, do so after your last frost date, but know they likely won't flower in their first year.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Balloon flowers generally attract slugs and snails, as do many other outdoor bloomers, which can be coaxed off the plants with bait. However, the plant may become afflicted with crown rot, root rot, botrytis gray mold, powdery mildew, or fungal leaf spot. Crown and root rot may cause plants to die over the winter. Leaves presenting powdery spots, mottling, or blotching can usually be treated with a fungicide. Quickly discard plants with gray mold so it doesn't spread, then use a preventative fungicide on remaining plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月19日
The Parodia magnifica genus includes a multitude of showy and easy-to-grow small ball cacti. Native to central South America, they are easy to care for, making them excellent beginner cacti. Their round appearance is to credit for their shapely name, and they can grow in clusters up to over a foot wide. While they prefer a warm and dry climate, they are more adaptable than some of their cacti cousins, able to withstand temperatures that hover around freezing as long as they're kept dry.
Ball cacti are moderate growers, adding about 4 inches to their height each year. Older plants will frequently produce flowers in beautiful shades of yellow, red, orange, or pink, and all varietals feature ridges of spikes that start out white and grow to a yellow-brown with age.
Botanical Name Parodia magnifica
Common Name Ball cactus, balloon cactus, silver ball cactus, blue ball cactus
Plant Type Cactus
Mature Size 3–12 in. tall, 3–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 9–12 (USDA)
Native Area South America
Ball Cactus Care
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular ball cactus without too much trouble. It's important to remember that the ball cactus doesn't like direct sunlight and is accustomed to more water than many other cacti species. Additionally, it's imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness or sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water, and take care to ensure its soil is very well-draining.
To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back on watering cadence. Lastly, make sure to fertilize during the growing season for the best results.
Light
Ball cacti like lots of light—just not too much of it. Don't let that confuse you, though—it's actually simpler than it seems. Essentially they can take direct sunlight in the softer hours of the mornings and afternoons but should be kept in partial shade throughout the hottest hours of the day. If your yard or garden can't account for both, consider planting your cactus in a pot that you can move into a shadier spot during high noon. If you're planting your cactus indoors and are sitting it at a window sill for sunlight, be sure to rotate it periodically to ensure even (not skewed or crooked) growth.
Soil
Like many cacti, the ball cactus prefers an airy, dry soil mixture. Drainage is especially important as well, so if you're opting for a store-bought blend (cacti or succulent-specific mix is your best bet), consider adding coarse sand, perlite, or pumice to the mixture to help aerate the soil. Overall, the pH level of the soil isn't terribly important to the ball cactus, but it does thrive best in a slightly acidic mixture with a pH between 6.1 and 6.5.
Water
Ball cacti are drought tolerant but do like water during their growing season. Provide regular water during the spring and summer months, but only when the soil is dry to the touch, thoroughly soaking the soil through when you do water. In the winter the cactus will go dormant and need very little water, so you can cease complete cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out. If planted in a container, make sure there are several holes in the bottom of the pot to aid in drainage.
Temperature and Humidity
True to their nature, ball cacti prefer warm, desert-like conditions. That being said, they can survive in below-freezing temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though it's not recommended that they're kept that cold for very long at all.
Dry heat is the key to keeping any cactus, and ball cacti will not do well if exposed to too much moisture—either from watering or in the form of humidity. Therefore, it is unnecessary to spritz them or increase the humidity in their environment.
Fertilizer
Though not necessary, the ball cactus will respond well to fertilizer. During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix, and suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagating Ball Cactus
Ball cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove an offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days–depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a cactus or succulent soil mixture and keep it in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the cactus is established, repot it into a regular-sized container.
Potting and Repotting Ball Cactus
Repot your ball cactus as needed, preferably during the warm season. Make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the cactus and surrounding soil from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Ball cacti are moderate growers, adding about 4 inches to their height each year. Older plants will frequently produce flowers in beautiful shades of yellow, red, orange, or pink, and all varietals feature ridges of spikes that start out white and grow to a yellow-brown with age.
Botanical Name Parodia magnifica
Common Name Ball cactus, balloon cactus, silver ball cactus, blue ball cactus
Plant Type Cactus
Mature Size 3–12 in. tall, 3–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 9–12 (USDA)
Native Area South America
Ball Cactus Care
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular ball cactus without too much trouble. It's important to remember that the ball cactus doesn't like direct sunlight and is accustomed to more water than many other cacti species. Additionally, it's imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness or sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water, and take care to ensure its soil is very well-draining.
To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back on watering cadence. Lastly, make sure to fertilize during the growing season for the best results.
Light
Ball cacti like lots of light—just not too much of it. Don't let that confuse you, though—it's actually simpler than it seems. Essentially they can take direct sunlight in the softer hours of the mornings and afternoons but should be kept in partial shade throughout the hottest hours of the day. If your yard or garden can't account for both, consider planting your cactus in a pot that you can move into a shadier spot during high noon. If you're planting your cactus indoors and are sitting it at a window sill for sunlight, be sure to rotate it periodically to ensure even (not skewed or crooked) growth.
Soil
Like many cacti, the ball cactus prefers an airy, dry soil mixture. Drainage is especially important as well, so if you're opting for a store-bought blend (cacti or succulent-specific mix is your best bet), consider adding coarse sand, perlite, or pumice to the mixture to help aerate the soil. Overall, the pH level of the soil isn't terribly important to the ball cactus, but it does thrive best in a slightly acidic mixture with a pH between 6.1 and 6.5.
Water
Ball cacti are drought tolerant but do like water during their growing season. Provide regular water during the spring and summer months, but only when the soil is dry to the touch, thoroughly soaking the soil through when you do water. In the winter the cactus will go dormant and need very little water, so you can cease complete cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out. If planted in a container, make sure there are several holes in the bottom of the pot to aid in drainage.
Temperature and Humidity
True to their nature, ball cacti prefer warm, desert-like conditions. That being said, they can survive in below-freezing temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though it's not recommended that they're kept that cold for very long at all.
Dry heat is the key to keeping any cactus, and ball cacti will not do well if exposed to too much moisture—either from watering or in the form of humidity. Therefore, it is unnecessary to spritz them or increase the humidity in their environment.
Fertilizer
Though not necessary, the ball cactus will respond well to fertilizer. During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix, and suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagating Ball Cactus
Ball cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove an offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days–depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a cactus or succulent soil mixture and keep it in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the cactus is established, repot it into a regular-sized container.
Potting and Repotting Ball Cactus
Repot your ball cactus as needed, preferably during the warm season. Make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the cactus and surrounding soil from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月10日
Is there a more welcome sight in spring than an azalea shrub in full bloom? These shade-loving plants can bring delightful color to all corners of the spring garden. Heirloom varieties can grow as high as twelve feet tall, with spectacular displays in spring. The range of colors is spectacular, from white to pale pink to a range of reds and purples. Most azaleas bloom in mid-spring (mid to late April), but some bloom earlier or later than others, and it's easy to choose a variety for your design needs. Like their larger cousins, the Rhododendron ferrugineum, the azalea's thick leaves can remain evergreen, though most varieties grown in the United States are deciduous.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
In the garden industry, the names "azalea" and "rhododendron" are often used interchangeably, which can become confusing. One way to tell them apart at first glance is the size and shape of the blooms: traditional rhododendrons have large round clusters of flowers, whereas azalea blooms are more evenly distributed on the entire shrub. Rhododendron leaves are also larger, fleshier and darker green than azalea leaves. There are numerous cultivars, so do a bit of research before you buy to make sure you get the plant best suited for your needs. For example, some varieties are more cold hardy than others. There are also now many azalea-rhododendron hybrids, which makes for very hardy plants that are a more manageable size and that have a wide range of flower colors.
Botanical Name Rhododendron
Common Name Azalea
Plant Type Deciduous or evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3' to 12'
Soil Type Acidic
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0
Bloom Time Early to late spring
Flower Color White, pink, red, orange
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (3 to 7, 5 to 9)
Native Areas Asia, Europe, North America
How to Grow Azaleas
Proper planting is key to success with these long-lived shrubs. Amending the soil will probably be necessary to ensure it gets a good start: have some peat moss and compost on hand to mix in with some good soil. Water in when planting and water daily for the first week until established.
Light
Azaleas flourish in shady spots, though they like a bit of sun: a few hours of morning sun is best, so the flowers don't wilt if a spring day becomes too hot. Most azaleas stay in bloom for about two weeks, barring rain or wind damage from a storm.
Soil
Azaleas love acidic soil; this explains why potted nursery plants usually have mostly peat moss for the planting medium. Soil should also have good drainage and good fertility with plenty of organic matter (compost, chopped leaves, etc.) and azaleas do best with a natural mulch such as pine bark mulch.
Water
Azaleas need water to bloom, and spring rain showers usually do the job. However, if the spring is dry, extra watering can be beneficial.
Temperature and Humidity
Azalea hardiness ranges between 3 and 9, with most of them having a narrower range at one end or the other (3 to 7 or 5 to 9). With ranges this narrow it's important the choose your plant and your planting site carefully. Too cold, and buds may not form; too hot, and flowers may burn from over exposure. Mildew can be a problem with azaleas; make sure they have plenty of air circulation and don't plant them too close to other large shrubs.
Garden Design Suggestions
Azaleas look great planted beneath trees or at the back of a border. They can make a great specimen planting in a prominent place by an entrance or patio also. Since the flowers are so showy, ideally you want your azaleas to bloom when your garden needs a boost of spring color. Maybe after your early blooming daffodils are fading, and before the peonies light up? You could also coordinate tulip plantings for striking color combinations. Consider orange tulips (like April-blooming "Orange Emperor" tulips) with pink azaleas, or purple tulips (like "Passionale" or "Negrita") with white or red azaleas. Having more than one variety of azalea with overlapping spring bloom times is an ideal scenario. There are some reblooming cultivars (the "Encore" series) that will give you blooms from spring through late summer.
Varieties to Choose
One can't flip through a garden catalog without seeing a new variety of azalea.Here are some tried and true ones, including newer hybrids.
"Rosy Lights" : This compact (4' to 6') deciduous cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) shrub blooms in late spring and features a sprightly flower in a rosy red color with hues of coral and blush. This is one of the "Northern Lights" azalea-rhododendron hybrids. The flowers are borne in "trusses" - not as round as traditional rhododendrons but not as diffused as traditional azaleas.
"Windbeam" : With smaller leaves and a tidy habit (3' to 4'), this popular cultivar features luminous pale pink flowers and olive green leaves that turn bronze in autumn. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it may need shelter from harsh winter winds, but it is more sun and heat tolerant than other azaleas. The spring display is stunning, beginning white and evolving to pink with tiny red freckles on the dorsal lobes.
"Golden Lights" : The bright golden-orange blooms on this "Northern Lights" cultivar offer a dramatic color for the spring landscape. Cold hardy (USDA 3 to 7) and compact (3' to 6'), the flower trusses are flat and contain ten flowers each, in shades ranging from butter yellow to orange with salmon pink highlights.
"Fragrant Star" : The pure white flowers on this small (3' to 4') mid-spring bloomer have a heady, spicy fragrance. The leaves are a pleasing bluish green. It is quite heat tolerant but not as cold hardy as others (USDA 5 to 9), though can withstand cold temperatures as low as -20F, if sheltered from harsh winds.
"Gibraltar" : This popular azalea boasts frilly, faintly fragrant, bright orange flowers that emerge from crimson buds. It is medium height (4' to 5') and relatively cold hardy (USDA 5 to 8). This variety is also very mildew resistant.
Care and Maintenance
Azaleas benefit from mild pruning. They start forming buds in summer, so the best time to prune is right after the flowers drop off in late spring. Azaleas also do well if given some fertilizer. Without knowing the nutrients in your soil, a basic 15-15-15 fertilizer containing equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is your best bet. But there are special products made just for azaleas: Espoma's "Azalea-Tone" is a good one. Fertilize in late winter or early spring, no later than the last week of March.
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