文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are one of my favorite types of plants to grow inside all year and outside in summer. Unfortunately, the ambient air tends to stay moist during most seasons, a condition which makes cacti unhappy. Cactus potting soil can enhance drainage, increase evaporation and provide the dry conditions that cacti favor. What is cactus mix? This medium promotes optimum health for your cactus and mimics the natural gritty, arid and low nutrient soils they grow in naturally. You can purchase the mixture or learn how to make cactus soil yourself.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
There are many “footed” ferns which produce fuzzy rhizomes that grow outside the pot. These are generally grown as indoor plants. Rabbit’s foot fern doesn’t mind being pot bound but you should give it fresh soil every couple years. Repotting can be a challenge with all the little feet hanging around the original pot so read here for a step-by-step tutorial on how to repot a rabbit’s foot fern. Davallia fejeensis is the botanical name of the rabbit’s foot fern (Humata tyermanii or white paw fern, is a similar plant). These charming plants produce soft silvery growth off the base of the plant that stream down the outside of the pot. The growths are actually above ground rhizomes and can be used to start entirely new ferns. In mature plants, these rhizomes will literally coat the outside of a container and cascade down over a hanging pot. Don’t worry if you break one off during rabbit’s foot fern repotting, as you can simply root it for another of these wonderful plants.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cereus tetragonus is native to North America but is only suited for cultivation outside in USDA zones 10 to 11. The fairy castle cactus is the colorful name by which the plant is marketed and refers to the numerous vertical stems of different heights that resemble spires and turrets. The plant is a succulent with spines that bloom yellow infrequently. Growing fairy castle cactus inside your home is an easy beginning gardener project. These delicately limbed cacti provide all the charm of the fairy tale castles for which they are named.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
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Succulentsister
2017年08月16日
My outside succulent garden outside is dying a little i think from the freezing cold weather can anyone help
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Can I plant my Christmas cactus outside, you ask? Can Christmas cactus be outside? The answer is yes, but you can only grow the plant outdoors year round if you live in a warm climate because Christmas cactus is definitely not cold hardy. Growing Christmas cactus outdoors is possible only in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and above.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lots of plants that we grow outside as ornamentals are actually warm weather perennials that can be grown year round indoors. As long as these plants receive plenty of sunlight, they can be kept as houseplants all year or just moved inside when the weather gets colder. Keep reading to learn more about ornamental plants you can grow indoors.
Indoor Ornamentals
Growing outdoor ornamentals as houseplants is often easy, as long as you pick a plant that thrives at room temperature and doesn’t need too much light. Some popular low-maintenance ornamental plants you can grow indoors are:
Asparagus fern – Asparagus fern grows quickly, making deep green foliage dotted with delicate flowers and bright red berries. It works very well in a container. Geranium – Geraniums will bloom all through the winter, as long as they’re in a bright window. Caladium – Caladium, also called elephant ear, grows well indoors and will remain colorful all winter in indirect sunlight. Ivy – Ivy does very well in the shade and can be planted to drape over the edge of a pot, creating a nice cascade effect from a tall shelf or table.
Some indoor ornamental plants require a little more care, however.
Begonias can be brought inside, but they need some maintenance. They like high humidity, but they also like their soil to dry out between waterings. To achieve this, line your plant’s saucer with pebbles – this will keep the pot’s runoff water from evaporating as quickly. Also, mist the plant between waterings to keep it moist. Hot pepper plants can be grown as interesting houseplant ornamentals. As summer winds down, dig up your plant and put it in a pot. The pot will need bright direct sunlight, possibly from a grow light. You’ll also need to watch the leaves for aphids, which can get out of hand.
Basically, as long as you can provide the plants with whatever they need to thrive, you should be able to grow nearly any type of ornamental garden plant indoors.
Indoor Ornamentals
Growing outdoor ornamentals as houseplants is often easy, as long as you pick a plant that thrives at room temperature and doesn’t need too much light. Some popular low-maintenance ornamental plants you can grow indoors are:
Asparagus fern – Asparagus fern grows quickly, making deep green foliage dotted with delicate flowers and bright red berries. It works very well in a container. Geranium – Geraniums will bloom all through the winter, as long as they’re in a bright window. Caladium – Caladium, also called elephant ear, grows well indoors and will remain colorful all winter in indirect sunlight. Ivy – Ivy does very well in the shade and can be planted to drape over the edge of a pot, creating a nice cascade effect from a tall shelf or table.
Some indoor ornamental plants require a little more care, however.
Begonias can be brought inside, but they need some maintenance. They like high humidity, but they also like their soil to dry out between waterings. To achieve this, line your plant’s saucer with pebbles – this will keep the pot’s runoff water from evaporating as quickly. Also, mist the plant between waterings to keep it moist. Hot pepper plants can be grown as interesting houseplant ornamentals. As summer winds down, dig up your plant and put it in a pot. The pot will need bright direct sunlight, possibly from a grow light. You’ll also need to watch the leaves for aphids, which can get out of hand.
Basically, as long as you can provide the plants with whatever they need to thrive, you should be able to grow nearly any type of ornamental garden plant indoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
You’re likely accustomed to leaving potted plants out over summer, but if some of your favorite perennial plants are frost tender where you live, they’ll be damaged or killed if you leave them outside during winter. But by bringing plants indoors for the winter, you can protect them against the harmful consequences of cold weather. After bringing plants indoors, however, the key to keeping plants alive over winter depends on what type of plants you have and the growing environment you provide them.
Winter Plant Care
How to keep plants alive over winter (by overwintering plants in pots indoors) means you first have to make room for the plants, which is sometimes easier said than done. Although you may have enough room in certain locations in your house, if the plants don’t receive enough light, they may begin to decline.
Tip: Before bringing plants indoors, install some hanging basket hooks or shelves in front of bright windows. You’ll have an overhead winter garden that keeps plants from cluttering your floor space. Other than giving your plants sufficient light while they’re indoors, a key to keeping plants alive through winter is providing the temperature and humidity they need. If you place the pots near a heating vent or a drafty window, the fluctuations in temperature may place too much stress on plants.
To increase the humidity around plants, set the pots on top of pebbles in a water-filled tray or dish, and keep the water level below the base of the containers.
When to Start Overwintering Plants in Pots
Most houseplants are tropical plants, which enjoy a little “summer vacation” in pots on your patio or deck. However, when the nighttime temperatures dip to 50 degrees F. (10 C.), it’s time to start bringing plants indoors to keep them alive during the winter. Caladiums, lilies and plants that grow from bulbs, tubers and other bulb-like structures, may go through a “resting period.” After an active growth period, some plant’s leaves and stems begin to fade or turn yellow, and the plant typically dies all the way to the ground. Even though these plants go through a dormant stage in winter, some (such as caladiums) need warm winter plant care while others (such as dahlias) respond better to chillier temperatures. A heated closet inside your home is suitable for overwintering caladium tubers, but an unheated location (40-50 degrees F. or 4-10 degrees C.) will work better for dahlias. Before bringing in your entire garden of plants for the winter, know your USDA plant hardiness zone. This determines the lowest temperature at which different plants will survive the winter outside. When you buy plants, look on the manufacturer’s tag to find the hardiness information.
Winter Plant Care
How to keep plants alive over winter (by overwintering plants in pots indoors) means you first have to make room for the plants, which is sometimes easier said than done. Although you may have enough room in certain locations in your house, if the plants don’t receive enough light, they may begin to decline.
Tip: Before bringing plants indoors, install some hanging basket hooks or shelves in front of bright windows. You’ll have an overhead winter garden that keeps plants from cluttering your floor space. Other than giving your plants sufficient light while they’re indoors, a key to keeping plants alive through winter is providing the temperature and humidity they need. If you place the pots near a heating vent or a drafty window, the fluctuations in temperature may place too much stress on plants.
To increase the humidity around plants, set the pots on top of pebbles in a water-filled tray or dish, and keep the water level below the base of the containers.
When to Start Overwintering Plants in Pots
Most houseplants are tropical plants, which enjoy a little “summer vacation” in pots on your patio or deck. However, when the nighttime temperatures dip to 50 degrees F. (10 C.), it’s time to start bringing plants indoors to keep them alive during the winter. Caladiums, lilies and plants that grow from bulbs, tubers and other bulb-like structures, may go through a “resting period.” After an active growth period, some plant’s leaves and stems begin to fade or turn yellow, and the plant typically dies all the way to the ground. Even though these plants go through a dormant stage in winter, some (such as caladiums) need warm winter plant care while others (such as dahlias) respond better to chillier temperatures. A heated closet inside your home is suitable for overwintering caladium tubers, but an unheated location (40-50 degrees F. or 4-10 degrees C.) will work better for dahlias. Before bringing in your entire garden of plants for the winter, know your USDA plant hardiness zone. This determines the lowest temperature at which different plants will survive the winter outside. When you buy plants, look on the manufacturer’s tag to find the hardiness information.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
I love a plant with a descriptive and evocative name. Cardboard palm plant (Zamia furfuracea) is one of those ancient plants with a lot of character that can grow inside or outside depending upon your gardening zone. What is a Zamia cardboard palm? In fact, it isn’t a palm at all but a cycad — like the sago palm plant. Knowing how to grow Zamia palms starts with knowing your USDA planting zone. This little guy is not winter hardy in the majority of North American regions, but it makes an excellent container or houseplant anywhere. Grow it outdoors in USDA zones 9 to 11 year round.
What is a Zamia Cardboard Palm?
We already ascertained that the plant is not a palm. Cycads, which have been around since the dinosaurs, form cones at the center of the plant. The cardboard palm plant is native to Mexico and has tropical tendencies in its preferred temperature and light levels. Zamia cardboard palm does have pinnate leaves like a palm tree, but they are rounded with a thick tuberous stem. The evergreen leaflets grow in opposing pairs of up to 12 per stem. It is a low growing plant that may spread 3 to 4 feet and an underground trunk. The trunk stores moisture in times of drought, which makes Zamia ideal for xeriscape gardens. Cardboard palm care requires enough moisture to keep the trunk fat and healthy. Never let it dry to the point that the trunk and stem are wrinkled or dry.
How to Grow Zamia Palms
Propagation of cardboard palm plants is inconsistent through seed. The plants come in male and female sexes. It may be difficult to tell which you have at first, but the male produces a large cone that protrudes from the core of the plant, while the female cone is smaller and flatter. Females may produce numerous bright red seeds when they are pollinated. They should be germinated in moist sand in flats indoors. Temperature range for germination is at least 65 F. (18 C.), but growing cardboard palms from seed is finicky business. Seeds should be sown immediately, as they are not viable for long. Once the seedling has emerged, it will look nothing like your adult plant. Young cardboard palm care includes moderate light until the second set of true leaves appears. Keep the sand moderately moist and transplant when the root base is robust.
Cardboard Palm Care
Maintenance is minimal when growing cardboard palms. Zamia thrives in moderate to bright light. It has a slow growth habit and does well in good potting soil as long as the container has excellent drainage. The plant is prone to some pests, such as spider mites, but its biggest problem is rot. Water deeply weekly in summer but reduce moisture in winter and fall by half. The thick underground trunk needs to be filled with stored water but over anxious growers may tend to overwater it and cause stem or crown rot. Once the crown is overtaken by fungal spores, it is nearly impossible to save. Prune off dead leaves as they occur and fertilize with a slow release palm food or a diluted household plant food once monthly during the growing season.
What is a Zamia Cardboard Palm?
We already ascertained that the plant is not a palm. Cycads, which have been around since the dinosaurs, form cones at the center of the plant. The cardboard palm plant is native to Mexico and has tropical tendencies in its preferred temperature and light levels. Zamia cardboard palm does have pinnate leaves like a palm tree, but they are rounded with a thick tuberous stem. The evergreen leaflets grow in opposing pairs of up to 12 per stem. It is a low growing plant that may spread 3 to 4 feet and an underground trunk. The trunk stores moisture in times of drought, which makes Zamia ideal for xeriscape gardens. Cardboard palm care requires enough moisture to keep the trunk fat and healthy. Never let it dry to the point that the trunk and stem are wrinkled or dry.
How to Grow Zamia Palms
Propagation of cardboard palm plants is inconsistent through seed. The plants come in male and female sexes. It may be difficult to tell which you have at first, but the male produces a large cone that protrudes from the core of the plant, while the female cone is smaller and flatter. Females may produce numerous bright red seeds when they are pollinated. They should be germinated in moist sand in flats indoors. Temperature range for germination is at least 65 F. (18 C.), but growing cardboard palms from seed is finicky business. Seeds should be sown immediately, as they are not viable for long. Once the seedling has emerged, it will look nothing like your adult plant. Young cardboard palm care includes moderate light until the second set of true leaves appears. Keep the sand moderately moist and transplant when the root base is robust.
Cardboard Palm Care
Maintenance is minimal when growing cardboard palms. Zamia thrives in moderate to bright light. It has a slow growth habit and does well in good potting soil as long as the container has excellent drainage. The plant is prone to some pests, such as spider mites, but its biggest problem is rot. Water deeply weekly in summer but reduce moisture in winter and fall by half. The thick underground trunk needs to be filled with stored water but over anxious growers may tend to overwater it and cause stem or crown rot. Once the crown is overtaken by fungal spores, it is nearly impossible to save. Prune off dead leaves as they occur and fertilize with a slow release palm food or a diluted household plant food once monthly during the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Dragon fruit is the edible fruit from the Pitaya cactus, a member of the Hylocereus genus. It is called dragon fruit for the scales on the outside of the fruit, which remind people of a dragon. While the cactus must be protected from freezing, it makes an attractive climbing houseplant in colder areas. It is easy to start from seed.
Step 1
Look online for seeds. If you can't find seeds, buy a dragon fruit, which can be found at many Asian markets. They come in yellow, red and magenta colors.
Step 2
Cut the fruit in half. Scoop out a teaspoon of pulp, making sure you get some of the black seeds. Mash the pulp in a small amount of water to separate the seeds.
Step 3
Clean the gelatinous pulp from the seeds. You won't need many seeds, because the germination rate is high. Enjoy the rest of the dragon fruit as a snack.
Step 4
Fill a shallow container with a planting medium made from equal parts seed-starting mix and sand. Moisten the mixture. Sprinkle the seeds on the top of the medium and barely cover them with sand. Seeds need light to germinate.
Step 5
Place the container in a plastic bag to retain moisture. Set it in a warm spot that gets plenty of light. Check daily; seeds start germinating anywhere from one to 14 days after planting. After germination, remove the plastic bag.
Step 6
Do not overwater the young cacti. After several months of growth, pot each small plant in its own container.
Step 1
Look online for seeds. If you can't find seeds, buy a dragon fruit, which can be found at many Asian markets. They come in yellow, red and magenta colors.
Step 2
Cut the fruit in half. Scoop out a teaspoon of pulp, making sure you get some of the black seeds. Mash the pulp in a small amount of water to separate the seeds.
Step 3
Clean the gelatinous pulp from the seeds. You won't need many seeds, because the germination rate is high. Enjoy the rest of the dragon fruit as a snack.
Step 4
Fill a shallow container with a planting medium made from equal parts seed-starting mix and sand. Moisten the mixture. Sprinkle the seeds on the top of the medium and barely cover them with sand. Seeds need light to germinate.
Step 5
Place the container in a plastic bag to retain moisture. Set it in a warm spot that gets plenty of light. Check daily; seeds start germinating anywhere from one to 14 days after planting. After germination, remove the plastic bag.
Step 6
Do not overwater the young cacti. After several months of growth, pot each small plant in its own container.
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成长记
MaryAnne Tran
2017年08月05日
Seem to have grown in the last week or so of being outside in the desert-like heat. Finally got a spray bottle so then I can water them without worrying about overwatering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Think Outside the Pot
If you've got a postage stamp for a yard or you're such an avid gardener that you've filled all your space, it's time to explore new gardening territory with vertical gardening. Follow the tips below for a few traditional and innovative ways to add new foliage to your small or plant-packed garden.
The Traditional Way: Grow Vines
Vines are growing machines. Some of them can grow to 50 feet in length. If you have a fence or wall in need of livening up, try vines. Clematis is tame, while trumpet vines are more adventurous and can tear up your siding, so be sure to pick a variety that's suitable to your setting. You can put up a trellis on your wall or fence for your vine to follow, or build an arbor or pergola. Either way, you can create a stunning assortment of flowers and greenery with vines alone, and attracts birds and butterflies to your yard.
Grow Down
With planters, you can create your own version of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Put containers along balconies or ledges and add trailing plants such as petunias or million bells, which will create a green and flowery curtain that sways in the breeze. Your hanging garden can also provide some much-needed shade during a hot summer.
Make a Living Wall
Grow plants on your interior or exterior walls using a hanging structure like ELT's living walls. You can use just about any kind of plant that has shallow roots to create beautiful designs that look more like a tapestry than a garden. ELT's vertical garden system is a 20 by 24 inch rectangular plastic structure that has 25 containers in which to place your plants. You can fasten any number of rectangles together to cover any surface you want. They also make a vertical garden for interiors, either on the floor or as a frame on the wall. If you have a sloped roof that's exposed to sun all day, you can put some rectangles up to create an inexpensive green roof. Green roofs are becoming popular in Europe as a means of slowing down runoff and cooling buildings without air conditioning.
If you've got a postage stamp for a yard or you're such an avid gardener that you've filled all your space, it's time to explore new gardening territory with vertical gardening. Follow the tips below for a few traditional and innovative ways to add new foliage to your small or plant-packed garden.
The Traditional Way: Grow Vines
Vines are growing machines. Some of them can grow to 50 feet in length. If you have a fence or wall in need of livening up, try vines. Clematis is tame, while trumpet vines are more adventurous and can tear up your siding, so be sure to pick a variety that's suitable to your setting. You can put up a trellis on your wall or fence for your vine to follow, or build an arbor or pergola. Either way, you can create a stunning assortment of flowers and greenery with vines alone, and attracts birds and butterflies to your yard.
Grow Down
With planters, you can create your own version of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Put containers along balconies or ledges and add trailing plants such as petunias or million bells, which will create a green and flowery curtain that sways in the breeze. Your hanging garden can also provide some much-needed shade during a hot summer.
Make a Living Wall
Grow plants on your interior or exterior walls using a hanging structure like ELT's living walls. You can use just about any kind of plant that has shallow roots to create beautiful designs that look more like a tapestry than a garden. ELT's vertical garden system is a 20 by 24 inch rectangular plastic structure that has 25 containers in which to place your plants. You can fasten any number of rectangles together to cover any surface you want. They also make a vertical garden for interiors, either on the floor or as a frame on the wall. If you have a sloped roof that's exposed to sun all day, you can put some rectangles up to create an inexpensive green roof. Green roofs are becoming popular in Europe as a means of slowing down runoff and cooling buildings without air conditioning.
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成长记
stureburk
2017年07月23日
Praise the sun little friend. ☀️ I put her outside in the sunshine during the day, and now the middle leaves stand almost straight up. The reason I take her inside during the night is that the dew keeps him from drying out. Succulents don't like wet feet. Peeking under the leaves I've seen some new roots forming from when I removed all the offshoots from her.
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成长记
stureburk
2017年07月22日
Took them outside to give them a brushing with a paintbrush to get rid of some dirt on the leaves. Found some babies as well!
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求助
haley
2017年07月09日
hi everyone, this is my plant Tony. I love him very much and I've had him for a couple of months. he was doing just fine in my dorm room but I brought him home and he started dying, I put it outside and it didn't get any better. I don't know what to do please help I love my plants
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rebeccamee：Your one seems to have elongated leaves and stem which is the result of lacking sunlight and overwatering it. You may put it outside to get more sunlight but it needs time to adapt to the new environment. Never overwater it again and if the root is still ok it will be getting better.
Ueca：I support the idea to give it more sun.
If the base of the stem starts showing bluish-black and gets mushy, perform a beheading.
sarajordan2993：Im a few days late in seeing this . As for watering ... i judge mine by the soil . I stick my finger into the soil to about an inch then take it out . If there is soil on your finger , or it feels damp ... its not quite ready for watering . If they are going to be placed outdoors , make sure to acclimate them into the sun . if this isnt done , it could result in a sunburnt succ . Give him a very good watering when he’s dry . to the point where the water is draining out of the bottom . let me know if you have any questions/concerns 😊 im always willing to help
AhhOh坏丫头：sorry I also don't know how to do.Maybe he needs more sunshine.
