文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Everyone knows what a cactus is, but they probably don’t know a lot about the history of a cactus and all the information as to the meaning of it. The word cactus was actually derived from the Greek word “Kaktos” and this word applied to a plant that they had which had spiny thistles on it. But, the cactus is also known by few other names, some people call it the “Mother-in-law’s Cushion” and you can imagine where that came from. A cactus actually symbolizes endurance as it is a plant that can really stand up to the test of time and the elements.
Description
There are so many different varieties of the cactus plant; you will see that depending on what is out there, you will have all kinds of different looks depending on the different species. You will see that there are some cacti that are extremely tall; there are other ones that are short, there ones that you can put in a little pot in your house. You have so many different choices, different colors, and different species that are going to look different and really have those distinct looks.
Uses
Generally, most people aren’t giving away a cactus for a Valentine’s Day gift, but they are using them as gifts. You will see a lot of people give a cactus to a friend or family member in a great little pot so that they can grow it. These plants symbolize endurance and to someone that is going through a hard time or even someone that is extremely determined, this is a great gift to give them with great meaning. Otherwise, most people that purchase a cactus are using it for a landscaping item, they are using it to jazz up the desert front yard that they have. Cacti are great for when you need to take up a lot of space in a yard and are in a climate where you just don’t have a lot of choices.
Why do People Plant the Cactus?
With a cactus, they are easy to grow; you just have to make sure that you know what you are doing. There are all kinds of different options out there and you need to make sure that the one you are growing is going to do ok in the area that you are located in. The important thing to remember with any cactus plant is that they are going to need to be grown in an extremely dry climate or area. If you are growing it in your home, you need to know when to water it and when to leave it alone, all of this is crucial and will make a huge difference in if it lives. With a cactus you want to make sure that it is extremely well drained, so that if it does get too much water it is able to drain out of wherever you are growing it. Too much water will actually kill a plant and will ruin all the work you’ve put into it.
Description
There are so many different varieties of the cactus plant; you will see that depending on what is out there, you will have all kinds of different looks depending on the different species. You will see that there are some cacti that are extremely tall; there are other ones that are short, there ones that you can put in a little pot in your house. You have so many different choices, different colors, and different species that are going to look different and really have those distinct looks.
Uses
Generally, most people aren’t giving away a cactus for a Valentine’s Day gift, but they are using them as gifts. You will see a lot of people give a cactus to a friend or family member in a great little pot so that they can grow it. These plants symbolize endurance and to someone that is going through a hard time or even someone that is extremely determined, this is a great gift to give them with great meaning. Otherwise, most people that purchase a cactus are using it for a landscaping item, they are using it to jazz up the desert front yard that they have. Cacti are great for when you need to take up a lot of space in a yard and are in a climate where you just don’t have a lot of choices.
Why do People Plant the Cactus?
With a cactus, they are easy to grow; you just have to make sure that you know what you are doing. There are all kinds of different options out there and you need to make sure that the one you are growing is going to do ok in the area that you are located in. The important thing to remember with any cactus plant is that they are going to need to be grown in an extremely dry climate or area. If you are growing it in your home, you need to know when to water it and when to leave it alone, all of this is crucial and will make a huge difference in if it lives. With a cactus you want to make sure that it is extremely well drained, so that if it does get too much water it is able to drain out of wherever you are growing it. Too much water will actually kill a plant and will ruin all the work you’ve put into it.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents are relatively pest-free plants, but, like any others, they occasionally fall prey to typical greenhouse pests like mealybug, scale, mites and white fly. Don’t worry. Plants and pests go hand-in-hand. You’ll constantly be bringing pests home with new plants and no matter what you do, you’ll NEVER be completely free of them. The goal is control. Thankfully there are some simple, relatively toxin-free ways to help deal with the little nasties.
Mealybug
Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home.
These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites
I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible.
Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants.
Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it!
Scale
After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell.
Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly
White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind).
Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
Mealybug
Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home.
These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites
I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible.
Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants.
Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it!
Scale
After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell.
Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly
White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind).
Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Cacti are flowering plants, so every kind of cactus is capable of blooming when it is mature. Whether or not an individual cactus plant blooms depends on its age and the care it gets. Some cacti don’t bloom until they are more than 30 years old. Others won’t bloom, even if they are old enough, unless they get proper light conditions, watering and fertilization. This is especially true for potted cacti. Holiday Cacti grown indoors, such as Christmas Cactus, won’t bloom unless they get long nights and short days.
Columnar Cacti
Tall-growing columnar cacti often take years before they bloom for the first time if grown from seed. If you root a branch from a mature, already-blooming columnar cactus, it will keep blooming after it is separated from the mother plant and rooted. However, some cacti, such as Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), native to Arizona in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, have branches that won’t root, so Saguaro has to be grown from seed, with a 40- to 55-year wait for the first flower. Some columnar cacti that produce flowers for the first time after 10 to 20 years and can live outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11 are Peruvian Apple (Cereus repandus) with blue stems and large white night-blooming flowers, Senita Cactus (Pachycereus schottii) with gray-green stems and small pink flowers produced amid an area of dense shaggy spines, and Mexican Fence Post (Pachycereus marginatus) with bright green stems that have white-defined stem ridges and smaller white flowers. Columnar cacti are effective landscaping plants even without flowers.
Short-stem Cacti
Short-columnar cacti with mature stems below 2 feet (60 cm) tall usually flower within five years from germination. Hedgehog Cacti (Echinocereus spp.) are native to the United States and Mexico, and make mounding clumps of many stems over time. Large pink, magenta or red flowers are abundant in spring. Depending on the species, Hedgehog Cactus grows in USDA zones 5, for red-flowered short claret cup (Echinocereus coccineus), through 11. Easter Lily Cactus (Echinopsis oxygona and hybrids) are hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11. They produce huge funnel-shaped flowers in white, pink, lavender, magenta or red. For the size of the plant, Peanut Cactus (Echinopsis chamaecereus) produces large flowers. Stems up to 6 inches (15 cm) long, covered with weak white spines, crawl along the ground and produce abundant bright orange flowers over 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide in spring. Peanut Cactus grows outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 11.
Round Cacti
Some of the most floriferous cacti belong here, such as Pincushion Cacti (Mammillaria spp. and hybrids) and Rebutias (Rebutia spp. and hybrids). They usually bloom within three to four years after sprouting. Pincushion Cacti are native to the United States and Mexico, producing star-shaped flowers in a ring around the top of the stem. Although round when young, some elongate to small columns. Flowers are white, pink, magenta, lavender, red, yellow or green, and plants grow outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 10. Rebutias are native to South America. Tidy low-growing plants cluster with age, and red, yellow, orange or purple flowers come from near the base of the stem. Rebutias are hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Conditions that Encourage Bloom
Since cacti grow as container plants in any USDA zone, give them proper care and they will reward you with blossoms. Most cacti need at least four hours of sunlight a day, preferably morning sunlight. Water them regularly during the growing season, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry before watering again until water comes through the pot’s drainage holes. Don’t let water remain in pot saucers. Use well-draining soilless potting mix. Fertilize them monthly from when they begin spring growth to the end of summer with a half-strength low-nitrogen high-phosphorus formula, which promotes bloom. Allow the cactus to become somewhat pot-bound for best bloom. Decrease watering in winter, and give your cacti a winter dormancy period with lower temperatures (50°F/10°C).
Holiday Cacti
Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) look so different than desert cacti that some people are surprised that they are cacti. They look different because they grow on Brazilian rain forest trees as epiphytes, and their stems are flattened and green, looking leaf-like. They need different care than desert cacti. Holiday Cacti are triggered to bloom in fall and winter by cooling temperatures, increasing night length and decreasing day length with only 8 to 10 hours of light. Most of the year they prefer partial shade, but in fall and winter they can be in sunlight.
Columnar Cacti
Tall-growing columnar cacti often take years before they bloom for the first time if grown from seed. If you root a branch from a mature, already-blooming columnar cactus, it will keep blooming after it is separated from the mother plant and rooted. However, some cacti, such as Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), native to Arizona in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, have branches that won’t root, so Saguaro has to be grown from seed, with a 40- to 55-year wait for the first flower. Some columnar cacti that produce flowers for the first time after 10 to 20 years and can live outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11 are Peruvian Apple (Cereus repandus) with blue stems and large white night-blooming flowers, Senita Cactus (Pachycereus schottii) with gray-green stems and small pink flowers produced amid an area of dense shaggy spines, and Mexican Fence Post (Pachycereus marginatus) with bright green stems that have white-defined stem ridges and smaller white flowers. Columnar cacti are effective landscaping plants even without flowers.
Short-stem Cacti
Short-columnar cacti with mature stems below 2 feet (60 cm) tall usually flower within five years from germination. Hedgehog Cacti (Echinocereus spp.) are native to the United States and Mexico, and make mounding clumps of many stems over time. Large pink, magenta or red flowers are abundant in spring. Depending on the species, Hedgehog Cactus grows in USDA zones 5, for red-flowered short claret cup (Echinocereus coccineus), through 11. Easter Lily Cactus (Echinopsis oxygona and hybrids) are hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11. They produce huge funnel-shaped flowers in white, pink, lavender, magenta or red. For the size of the plant, Peanut Cactus (Echinopsis chamaecereus) produces large flowers. Stems up to 6 inches (15 cm) long, covered with weak white spines, crawl along the ground and produce abundant bright orange flowers over 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide in spring. Peanut Cactus grows outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 11.
Round Cacti
Some of the most floriferous cacti belong here, such as Pincushion Cacti (Mammillaria spp. and hybrids) and Rebutias (Rebutia spp. and hybrids). They usually bloom within three to four years after sprouting. Pincushion Cacti are native to the United States and Mexico, producing star-shaped flowers in a ring around the top of the stem. Although round when young, some elongate to small columns. Flowers are white, pink, magenta, lavender, red, yellow or green, and plants grow outdoors in USDA zones 8 through 10. Rebutias are native to South America. Tidy low-growing plants cluster with age, and red, yellow, orange or purple flowers come from near the base of the stem. Rebutias are hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Conditions that Encourage Bloom
Since cacti grow as container plants in any USDA zone, give them proper care and they will reward you with blossoms. Most cacti need at least four hours of sunlight a day, preferably morning sunlight. Water them regularly during the growing season, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry before watering again until water comes through the pot’s drainage holes. Don’t let water remain in pot saucers. Use well-draining soilless potting mix. Fertilize them monthly from when they begin spring growth to the end of summer with a half-strength low-nitrogen high-phosphorus formula, which promotes bloom. Allow the cactus to become somewhat pot-bound for best bloom. Decrease watering in winter, and give your cacti a winter dormancy period with lower temperatures (50°F/10°C).
Holiday Cacti
Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) look so different than desert cacti that some people are surprised that they are cacti. They look different because they grow on Brazilian rain forest trees as epiphytes, and their stems are flattened and green, looking leaf-like. They need different care than desert cacti. Holiday Cacti are triggered to bloom in fall and winter by cooling temperatures, increasing night length and decreasing day length with only 8 to 10 hours of light. Most of the year they prefer partial shade, but in fall and winter they can be in sunlight.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents don’t always fare well when exposed to the hot sun day in and day out. In nature, succulents often grow under or near a shrub or tree where they receive bright light but not constant direct sunlight. Don’t automatically plant your succulent smack-dab in the middle of the garden, where it receives endless hours of direct sunlight, especially during the summer. Instead, carefully select its growing location where your succulent will receive enough sunlight, but not too much.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents are the perfect plant for forgetful and sometimes neglectful gardeners. They don’t require much care and are easy to grow inside as well as out. They come in a variety of colors and textures and look lovely potted or landscaped.
Succulents are a diverse group of plants that come in many colors and shapes. There are over 20,000 varieties with kinds suited for all growing conditions. They store water in their leaves which tend to be thick and plump, although some have thinner leaves. They often grow in dry climates without much humidity. They do need to be watered, but can stand periods of drought instead pulling water that is stored in the leaves. They do not do well in wet conditions as their roots will start to rot if sitting in water for too long. Succulents often prefer warm weather can will not survive freezing temperatures. The stored water in the leaves will freeze and destroy the plant. Some species, however, can survive a freezing winter.
The most common types of succulents that you’ll be able to find are Agave, Yucca, Aloe, cacti, Sedum, Sempervivum, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and even some orchids.
Succulent Care
As with all plants the four things to consider when caring for succulents are light, water, soil, and temperature.
Light
Both indoor and outdoor succulents generally need at least 3 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sunlight would be preferable as the afternoon sun can be too harsh. Some succulents that receive too much sun may be damaged and look sunburned with scars on their leaves or a washed out color. Especially in hot climates where the sun is the most direct be sure to keep your succulents in areas with filtered sunlight.
Alternatively, succulents that don’t receive enough sun may begin to grow or reach toward the sun. The plants may begin to grow tall with the leaves more spaced out. Succulents that are colored may also turn green if not receiving enough light.
Water
Succulents are made to grow in arid climates and as a result do not need much water. They instead store their water in their leaves or stems. When watering your succulents be sure the soil is dry before you water. Soak the soil around the plant and don’t water again until the soil is completely dry. If the roots stay wet for long periods of time they may begin to rot causing the plant to rot. You will be able to tell this is occurring because the leaves will turn black and mushy and may start to grow mold. Generally, most succulents need to be watered only once a week. This will vary depending on your climate and soil conditions. If you are unsure how often to water your succulents it is better to underwater rather than overwater.
Soil
Well-draining soil is vital for succulents. This is important as too much moisture will cause the plant to rot. Unlike typical plants, succulent roots don’t absorb water through direct contact, but instead they get their water from the air. That is why well-draining soil is important. If you grow your succulents in pots, but sure the pot has drainage holes.
When planting succulents look for cactus mix potting soil. This mix is designed to drain better than regular potting soil. If you are unable to find cactus mix you can make your own by mixing 1 part stone pebbles, 1 part wood mulch, and 1 part clay pebbles. The stone pebbles don’t absorb water and create pockets in the mix for the water to drain. The mulch and clay absorb moisture and slowly releases it allowing the roots to receive water.
Temperature
Most succulents are able to tolerate a large range of temperatures if they get the right amount of sun and water. However, the more delicate succulents should not be kept in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) or below freezing. These are the types with really thick leaves. The extreme heat will cause them to droop when the soil gets too hot and dry and below freezing will freeze the water in their leaves.
Propagating
One of the excellent qualities of succulents is their ability to propagate easily. You can often start a new plant from leaf or a plant cutting. Some types of succulents propagate better from a cutting rather than a leaf. The succulents with the thick, fleshy leaves are best suited to leaf propagation.
The best way to remove a leaf for propagation is to gently twist the leaf from the stem. You’ll want the entire leaf so nothing should be left on the stem. For succulents that propagate best from cuttings use sharp scissors or pruning shears and cut off a stem right above a leaf. This can be either the top of the succulent, or a new shoot.
After removing the leaf or cutting you’ll want the end to dry out and scab over a bit before planting. If you plant it freshly cut it may absorb too much moisture. Depending on your climate and humidity this may take 1 to 3 days. The leaf or cutting may shrivel slightly. You’ll want to plant it before it dries out too much.
When the end of the cutting is dry it is time to plant it. The leaf does not need to be planted and instead should be laid on top of soil. Mist the cutting or leaf with water whenever the soil is dry. You do not need to soak the soil. The leaves will begin to grow tiny roots within 4 to 6 weeks. When you begin to see roots cover them with soil so they don’t dry out. Propagating new plants from leaves and cuttings is not a quick process as it may take up to a year for the new plant to be fully grown.
Identifying
Often times when you buy a succulent at the store it may not be labeled. Or it will be labeled simply as “succulent” or “succulent variety”. This can be frustrating as different succulent have different growth requirements. There are many avenues you can take to help you identify your plant. The first may be to simply ask the seller. If they are unsure you may be able to identify your succulent with a photo using an online forum.
The more difficult way to identify your succulent is to look at the characteristics of the plant such as leaf shape and growing habits.
Leaf shape
Succulents come in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The leaf shapes of succulent can vary greatly among the different kinds. Leaves are generally long and spikey or small and circular. Succulents that have long spikey leaves include Aloe vera, Agave, and Gasteria. Within the spikey-leaved category the leaves may be grass-like or fleshy. The succulents with circular leaves are rose-shaped, called rosette forming succulents. Rosette-forming, circular leaved succulents include Aeonium, Echeveria, and Graptopeltum.
Rosette type
Succulents that grow in the rosette-form feature close clusters of leaves that radiate from the center as a flower would. These leaves may be pointed or round, fleshy or grass-like. Jobivarva succulents feature rounded leaves and hen-and-chick feature pointed leaves.
Configuration
Some succulents grow in long stalks and others grow close to the ground and spread out. Succulents may change in configuration as they mature so waiting until they have aged may help in making an identification.
Plant size
The size of the plant may help you identify the plant as well as determine where it should be grown. Smaller plants, those that are just a couple inches tall and wide, may be best suited indoors. Larger plants may be best to grow outside.
Flower shape and color
Flowers are one of the easiest ways to identify a plant. If your succulent blooms pay attention to the shape, size, color, and even the time of year that it blooms. The Christmas Cactus, for example, blooms only once a year, in midwinter.
Indoor Succulents
Succulents are a popular choice for houseplants because they don’t require a lot of maintenance. A Jade Plant is a classic choice and is easy to grow. Aloe vera is also popular and can be used to treat sunburns or wounds. Burro’s Tail is a pretty plant that can add some interest to your interior. It has overlapping leaves which can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in length and hang over the flower pot.
Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are succulents that bloom during the holidays and offer some color during the time of year when it can be hard to find. Keep this succulent outside in a sheltered area in the summer and fall. Bring it indoors when the overnight temperatures begin to drop into the 40s. Fertilize the plant three times during the summer and keep it drier in the winter than in the spring and summer.
One of the easiest houseplants to keep is the Snake Plant. It gets its name from the shape of its leaves. This is an indestructible houseplant that strives on neglect. It grows upright and can fit into many locations in the home. There are also many varieties, some that are variegated in color, to offer many options.
Outdoor Succulents
The most common succulents you’ll find to grow outside are Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus, and Agave. These plants are great for landscaping and can be used alone or for all of the landscape. Yucca and Agave are hardy for most of the United States.
Hen-and-chick are a type of Sempervivum and get their name from the mother plant, or the hen, that produces cluster of offsets, the chicks. They are an easy plant to grow in the sunny part of the yard. They are low-growing and are also a good choice for a houseplant. When keeping it as a houseplant be sure to let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Sedum, sometimes called Stonecrop, are a great succulent to use as groundcover as most types are low-growing. Some varieties are taller and look best in the middle of the garden. They grow well in a normal garden, but do best in drier conditions. They also grow well in full-sun or partial sun.
Planting Succulents
When planting succulents in your garden one thing you should pay attention to is the soil. If your soil is not naturally well draining you will need to mix in some sand or gravel to help the drainage. No succulents can tolerate standing water so well-drained soil is key.
To help landscape the succulents consider adding a rock garden. This is a great way to achieve a natural looking succulent garden. Rock gardens feature various sizes of rocks and help mimic many of succulents native habits helping the landscaped succulents look more natural. You can also plant the succulents in groups to help them look purposeful and avoid planting in rows which can create the effect of soldiers in a row.
Succulents are a diverse group of plants that come in many colors and shapes. There are over 20,000 varieties with kinds suited for all growing conditions. They store water in their leaves which tend to be thick and plump, although some have thinner leaves. They often grow in dry climates without much humidity. They do need to be watered, but can stand periods of drought instead pulling water that is stored in the leaves. They do not do well in wet conditions as their roots will start to rot if sitting in water for too long. Succulents often prefer warm weather can will not survive freezing temperatures. The stored water in the leaves will freeze and destroy the plant. Some species, however, can survive a freezing winter.
The most common types of succulents that you’ll be able to find are Agave, Yucca, Aloe, cacti, Sedum, Sempervivum, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and even some orchids.
Succulent Care
As with all plants the four things to consider when caring for succulents are light, water, soil, and temperature.
Light
Both indoor and outdoor succulents generally need at least 3 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sunlight would be preferable as the afternoon sun can be too harsh. Some succulents that receive too much sun may be damaged and look sunburned with scars on their leaves or a washed out color. Especially in hot climates where the sun is the most direct be sure to keep your succulents in areas with filtered sunlight.
Alternatively, succulents that don’t receive enough sun may begin to grow or reach toward the sun. The plants may begin to grow tall with the leaves more spaced out. Succulents that are colored may also turn green if not receiving enough light.
Water
Succulents are made to grow in arid climates and as a result do not need much water. They instead store their water in their leaves or stems. When watering your succulents be sure the soil is dry before you water. Soak the soil around the plant and don’t water again until the soil is completely dry. If the roots stay wet for long periods of time they may begin to rot causing the plant to rot. You will be able to tell this is occurring because the leaves will turn black and mushy and may start to grow mold. Generally, most succulents need to be watered only once a week. This will vary depending on your climate and soil conditions. If you are unsure how often to water your succulents it is better to underwater rather than overwater.
Soil
Well-draining soil is vital for succulents. This is important as too much moisture will cause the plant to rot. Unlike typical plants, succulent roots don’t absorb water through direct contact, but instead they get their water from the air. That is why well-draining soil is important. If you grow your succulents in pots, but sure the pot has drainage holes.
When planting succulents look for cactus mix potting soil. This mix is designed to drain better than regular potting soil. If you are unable to find cactus mix you can make your own by mixing 1 part stone pebbles, 1 part wood mulch, and 1 part clay pebbles. The stone pebbles don’t absorb water and create pockets in the mix for the water to drain. The mulch and clay absorb moisture and slowly releases it allowing the roots to receive water.
Temperature
Most succulents are able to tolerate a large range of temperatures if they get the right amount of sun and water. However, the more delicate succulents should not be kept in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) or below freezing. These are the types with really thick leaves. The extreme heat will cause them to droop when the soil gets too hot and dry and below freezing will freeze the water in their leaves.
Propagating
One of the excellent qualities of succulents is their ability to propagate easily. You can often start a new plant from leaf or a plant cutting. Some types of succulents propagate better from a cutting rather than a leaf. The succulents with the thick, fleshy leaves are best suited to leaf propagation.
The best way to remove a leaf for propagation is to gently twist the leaf from the stem. You’ll want the entire leaf so nothing should be left on the stem. For succulents that propagate best from cuttings use sharp scissors or pruning shears and cut off a stem right above a leaf. This can be either the top of the succulent, or a new shoot.
After removing the leaf or cutting you’ll want the end to dry out and scab over a bit before planting. If you plant it freshly cut it may absorb too much moisture. Depending on your climate and humidity this may take 1 to 3 days. The leaf or cutting may shrivel slightly. You’ll want to plant it before it dries out too much.
When the end of the cutting is dry it is time to plant it. The leaf does not need to be planted and instead should be laid on top of soil. Mist the cutting or leaf with water whenever the soil is dry. You do not need to soak the soil. The leaves will begin to grow tiny roots within 4 to 6 weeks. When you begin to see roots cover them with soil so they don’t dry out. Propagating new plants from leaves and cuttings is not a quick process as it may take up to a year for the new plant to be fully grown.
Identifying
Often times when you buy a succulent at the store it may not be labeled. Or it will be labeled simply as “succulent” or “succulent variety”. This can be frustrating as different succulent have different growth requirements. There are many avenues you can take to help you identify your plant. The first may be to simply ask the seller. If they are unsure you may be able to identify your succulent with a photo using an online forum.
The more difficult way to identify your succulent is to look at the characteristics of the plant such as leaf shape and growing habits.
Leaf shape
Succulents come in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The leaf shapes of succulent can vary greatly among the different kinds. Leaves are generally long and spikey or small and circular. Succulents that have long spikey leaves include Aloe vera, Agave, and Gasteria. Within the spikey-leaved category the leaves may be grass-like or fleshy. The succulents with circular leaves are rose-shaped, called rosette forming succulents. Rosette-forming, circular leaved succulents include Aeonium, Echeveria, and Graptopeltum.
Rosette type
Succulents that grow in the rosette-form feature close clusters of leaves that radiate from the center as a flower would. These leaves may be pointed or round, fleshy or grass-like. Jobivarva succulents feature rounded leaves and hen-and-chick feature pointed leaves.
Configuration
Some succulents grow in long stalks and others grow close to the ground and spread out. Succulents may change in configuration as they mature so waiting until they have aged may help in making an identification.
Plant size
The size of the plant may help you identify the plant as well as determine where it should be grown. Smaller plants, those that are just a couple inches tall and wide, may be best suited indoors. Larger plants may be best to grow outside.
Flower shape and color
Flowers are one of the easiest ways to identify a plant. If your succulent blooms pay attention to the shape, size, color, and even the time of year that it blooms. The Christmas Cactus, for example, blooms only once a year, in midwinter.
Indoor Succulents
Succulents are a popular choice for houseplants because they don’t require a lot of maintenance. A Jade Plant is a classic choice and is easy to grow. Aloe vera is also popular and can be used to treat sunburns or wounds. Burro’s Tail is a pretty plant that can add some interest to your interior. It has overlapping leaves which can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in length and hang over the flower pot.
Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are succulents that bloom during the holidays and offer some color during the time of year when it can be hard to find. Keep this succulent outside in a sheltered area in the summer and fall. Bring it indoors when the overnight temperatures begin to drop into the 40s. Fertilize the plant three times during the summer and keep it drier in the winter than in the spring and summer.
One of the easiest houseplants to keep is the Snake Plant. It gets its name from the shape of its leaves. This is an indestructible houseplant that strives on neglect. It grows upright and can fit into many locations in the home. There are also many varieties, some that are variegated in color, to offer many options.
Outdoor Succulents
The most common succulents you’ll find to grow outside are Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus, and Agave. These plants are great for landscaping and can be used alone or for all of the landscape. Yucca and Agave are hardy for most of the United States.
Hen-and-chick are a type of Sempervivum and get their name from the mother plant, or the hen, that produces cluster of offsets, the chicks. They are an easy plant to grow in the sunny part of the yard. They are low-growing and are also a good choice for a houseplant. When keeping it as a houseplant be sure to let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Sedum, sometimes called Stonecrop, are a great succulent to use as groundcover as most types are low-growing. Some varieties are taller and look best in the middle of the garden. They grow well in a normal garden, but do best in drier conditions. They also grow well in full-sun or partial sun.
Planting Succulents
When planting succulents in your garden one thing you should pay attention to is the soil. If your soil is not naturally well draining you will need to mix in some sand or gravel to help the drainage. No succulents can tolerate standing water so well-drained soil is key.
To help landscape the succulents consider adding a rock garden. This is a great way to achieve a natural looking succulent garden. Rock gardens feature various sizes of rocks and help mimic many of succulents native habits helping the landscaped succulents look more natural. You can also plant the succulents in groups to help them look purposeful and avoid planting in rows which can create the effect of soldiers in a row.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Even though petite, glass-enclosed gardens are fashionable, succulents don’t grow well in terrariums. Terrariums can become too humid for succulents. When these plants are exposed to too much moisture, they can become mushy and die. Below are some tips for making the most of a terrarium garden.
Choose a terrarium with ample circulation and plenty of drainage. Your plants won’t thrive if they’re soggy. Don’t overcrowd the area. Less is more when it comes to growing succulents in terrariums. The roots of the succulents should be completely covered by the soil. You won’t have to water the plants often. When you do, spray the dirt with a mister. Tiny versions of succulents look great next to miniature accessories.
Kids love to plant, arrange and care for fairy gardens. You won’t have to worry about them damaging these sturdy plants. Make sure that choose soft plants that won’t pinch or poke the children.
Choose a terrarium with ample circulation and plenty of drainage. Your plants won’t thrive if they’re soggy. Don’t overcrowd the area. Less is more when it comes to growing succulents in terrariums. The roots of the succulents should be completely covered by the soil. You won’t have to water the plants often. When you do, spray the dirt with a mister. Tiny versions of succulents look great next to miniature accessories.
Kids love to plant, arrange and care for fairy gardens. You won’t have to worry about them damaging these sturdy plants. Make sure that choose soft plants that won’t pinch or poke the children.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Don’t assume that you’re limited to growing succulents in traditional flower pots. Because they’re so flexible, they can be grown in just about any container. We’ve even seen succulents planted in a shoe. Below are some options for unique potted succulent ideas.
Hollow out some logs or stumps and fill them with soil. Plant the succulents inside for an inexpensive, natural look. An old birdbath or fountain makes a wonderful home for these plants. So do old watering cans. Because succulents don’t require ample amounts of water, you can plant them into furniture. Remove the center slat of a farmhouse table and replace it with a succulent garden. Grow succulents along the center of your coffee table. Smaller containers make your succulent garden portable. Use it as the centerpiece one night at dinner, then move it to your foyer to greet you with freshness when you enter the house.
Hollow out some logs or stumps and fill them with soil. Plant the succulents inside for an inexpensive, natural look. An old birdbath or fountain makes a wonderful home for these plants. So do old watering cans. Because succulents don’t require ample amounts of water, you can plant them into furniture. Remove the center slat of a farmhouse table and replace it with a succulent garden. Grow succulents along the center of your coffee table. Smaller containers make your succulent garden portable. Use it as the centerpiece one night at dinner, then move it to your foyer to greet you with freshness when you enter the house.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents may be most commonly grown in containers. However, they’re ideal for outdoor rock gardens and sculptural gardens. They can even serve as ground cover in rocky or sandy soils. If you don’t have garden space, grow succulents vertically outdoors. Living wall planters can be made from old pallets, picture frames, fence slats or shutters. Below are some of the most popular succulents for growing outdoors.
Agave: Some people refer to Agave plants as “dinosaur plants”. They look like massive versions of the Aloe plant, except the Agave leaves are grayer. This standout succulent makes a fantastic focal point in any yard. Agave grows more quickly in the ground than in containers. It does best when you ignore it. It prefers rocky or sandy soil and isn’t picky about the soil’s pH. You don’t want to fertilize an Agave plant. If it gets too much nourishment, it will bloom. Although the flowers can be massive and beautiful, the plant dies after it blooms.
Watch Chain Plant (Crassula muscosa): This plant is referred to as a “Watch Chain” or “Zipper Plant” because of the way it creates intricate braid-like patterns as it grows. The small, green leaves are crowded around a narrow stem. This succulent is easy to grow. In fact, it can take over your garden if that’s what you want. It’s perfect for people who don’t want to spend a lot of time tending to their gardens.
Dasylirion: These stunning plants resemble a lion’s mane or palm tree. Many people are surprised to find out that the Dasylirion is a succulent. Dasylirion grows well in USDA plant hardiness zone 8 to 11. It develops into a bushy sphere up to 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter. The spiny leaves grow out of a trunk that grows into a thick cylinder. You can keep the plant from looking too unkempt by stripping the lower leaves around the trunk.
Agave: Some people refer to Agave plants as “dinosaur plants”. They look like massive versions of the Aloe plant, except the Agave leaves are grayer. This standout succulent makes a fantastic focal point in any yard. Agave grows more quickly in the ground than in containers. It does best when you ignore it. It prefers rocky or sandy soil and isn’t picky about the soil’s pH. You don’t want to fertilize an Agave plant. If it gets too much nourishment, it will bloom. Although the flowers can be massive and beautiful, the plant dies after it blooms.
Watch Chain Plant (Crassula muscosa): This plant is referred to as a “Watch Chain” or “Zipper Plant” because of the way it creates intricate braid-like patterns as it grows. The small, green leaves are crowded around a narrow stem. This succulent is easy to grow. In fact, it can take over your garden if that’s what you want. It’s perfect for people who don’t want to spend a lot of time tending to their gardens.
Dasylirion: These stunning plants resemble a lion’s mane or palm tree. Many people are surprised to find out that the Dasylirion is a succulent. Dasylirion grows well in USDA plant hardiness zone 8 to 11. It develops into a bushy sphere up to 4 feet (1.2 m) in diameter. The spiny leaves grow out of a trunk that grows into a thick cylinder. You can keep the plant from looking too unkempt by stripping the lower leaves around the trunk.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Although horticulturalists don’t categorize ants as a garden pest, most people consider the ant an unwelcome tenant in the flower garden. Ants are aggressive, especially the notorious fire ant of the south, which seems to expand its territory northward year by year. Some ants maintain a mutually beneficial relationship with aphids. Ants can also ruin an otherwise perfect spring bouquet of peonies.
It’s unreasonable to try to exterminate ants completely in a flower garden, but you can control them without resorting to harmful chemicals.
Create Homemade Ant Repellent
Ants are very sensitive to odors, as any picnicker can tell you. Just as they are attracted to sweets, certain smells repel them. Experiment with cotton balls soaked in ant-repelling essential oils. Ants detest mint, camphor, tansy, and clove oil. You can also grow your own ant repellent in the vegetable garden. Place hot peppers in a blender with a bit of water to create a dense mash, which you can spread in problem areas.
Keep Ants off Flowers
Ants are attracted to sweet foods, and this includes many fruits and some nectar-rich flowers. Peonies, in particular, seem to attract ants just as buds turn to blossoms. Although ants rarely inflict damage to flowers or fruits, no gardener wants to mar the joy of harvest with a handful of swarming ants.
You can use sticky traps to prevent ants from ascending the plant of concern. Buy a commercial sticky product, such as Tanglefoot, or make your own sticky traps from adhesive paper strips wrapped around the base of the plants.
There are two ways to deal with ants on peonies:
Cut the flowers when they have fully opened, as ants are attracted to the sucrose that collects on buds.
If you cut the flowers in bud, refrigerate them immediately. Within 24 hours, the ants will become very sluggish, making it easy to wipe them off the buds.
Extinguish Aphids
If you notice a congregation of ants gathering on one of your garden specimens, be suspicious. Ants are purposeful creatures, not given to leisurely gatherings. Look closely, and use a magnifying glass if necessary: you will probably discover an infestation of aphids. The ants are enjoying the sweet honeydew excreted by the aphids. In exchange for this nourishment, the ants protect the aphids from their enemies, attacking such beneficial insects as ladybugs. You must treat the plant-damaging aphids first; the ants will seek food elsewhere.
Control Fire Ants
Fire ants deserve less of the flower gardener’s tolerance and sympathy. These aggressive invaders can crawl quickly up the gardener’s arm or leg, delivering dozens of painful bites before the victim detects them. They also prey on wildlife like lizards, frogs, spiders, and even birds in the garden. If you have any fire ant mounds on your property, you must destroy them. Cover the mound with a container, and pour boiling water around the container. Wait one minute, then turn over the container with a stick and pour an additional gallon of boiling water into the ants seeking refuge in the container.
Repeat as necessary.
The Benefits of Ants
Don’t despair if you have more ants in your garden than you’d like. Ants aerate the soil, function as pollinators, and eat the eggs and larvae of fleas and other pests. Consider purchasing an ant farm to amuse the children, and learn more about the ways of this social insect.
It’s unreasonable to try to exterminate ants completely in a flower garden, but you can control them without resorting to harmful chemicals.
Create Homemade Ant Repellent
Ants are very sensitive to odors, as any picnicker can tell you. Just as they are attracted to sweets, certain smells repel them. Experiment with cotton balls soaked in ant-repelling essential oils. Ants detest mint, camphor, tansy, and clove oil. You can also grow your own ant repellent in the vegetable garden. Place hot peppers in a blender with a bit of water to create a dense mash, which you can spread in problem areas.
Keep Ants off Flowers
Ants are attracted to sweet foods, and this includes many fruits and some nectar-rich flowers. Peonies, in particular, seem to attract ants just as buds turn to blossoms. Although ants rarely inflict damage to flowers or fruits, no gardener wants to mar the joy of harvest with a handful of swarming ants.
You can use sticky traps to prevent ants from ascending the plant of concern. Buy a commercial sticky product, such as Tanglefoot, or make your own sticky traps from adhesive paper strips wrapped around the base of the plants.
There are two ways to deal with ants on peonies:
Cut the flowers when they have fully opened, as ants are attracted to the sucrose that collects on buds.
If you cut the flowers in bud, refrigerate them immediately. Within 24 hours, the ants will become very sluggish, making it easy to wipe them off the buds.
Extinguish Aphids
If you notice a congregation of ants gathering on one of your garden specimens, be suspicious. Ants are purposeful creatures, not given to leisurely gatherings. Look closely, and use a magnifying glass if necessary: you will probably discover an infestation of aphids. The ants are enjoying the sweet honeydew excreted by the aphids. In exchange for this nourishment, the ants protect the aphids from their enemies, attacking such beneficial insects as ladybugs. You must treat the plant-damaging aphids first; the ants will seek food elsewhere.
Control Fire Ants
Fire ants deserve less of the flower gardener’s tolerance and sympathy. These aggressive invaders can crawl quickly up the gardener’s arm or leg, delivering dozens of painful bites before the victim detects them. They also prey on wildlife like lizards, frogs, spiders, and even birds in the garden. If you have any fire ant mounds on your property, you must destroy them. Cover the mound with a container, and pour boiling water around the container. Wait one minute, then turn over the container with a stick and pour an additional gallon of boiling water into the ants seeking refuge in the container.
Repeat as necessary.
The Benefits of Ants
Don’t despair if you have more ants in your garden than you’d like. Ants aerate the soil, function as pollinators, and eat the eggs and larvae of fleas and other pests. Consider purchasing an ant farm to amuse the children, and learn more about the ways of this social insect.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Palm trees don’t just make an appearance in Hollywood. Different varieties can be grown around the United States, even places where snow is a regular winter feature. Snow and freezing temps aren’t exactly a palm trees milieu, so what kind of winter protection must you provide for palms?
Winter Palm Tree Care
Frost and freezing temperatures damage the tissue of plants, in general weakening them and leaving them susceptible to diseases. Cold snaps, in particular, are of concern. Winterizing your palm tree to protect it from cold damage may be of paramount importance, especially depending on your region. Winter palm tree care usually requires wrapping palm trees in winter. The question is how to wrap the palm tree for winter and with what?
How to Wrap Palm Trees for Winter
If your palm is small, you can cover it with a box or blanket and weigh it down. Don’t leave the cover on for longer than 5 days. You can also cover a small palm with straw or similar mulch. Remove the mulch immediately when the weather warms up. As to winterizing a palm tree by wrapping it, there are 4 basic methods: stringing Christmas lights, the chicken wire method, utilizing heat tape and using water pipe insulation. Christmas lights – Christmas lights to wrap the palm are the easiest method. Do not use the newer LED lights, but stick with good old-fashioned bulbs. Tie the leaves together into a bundle and wrap them with a string of lights. The heat emitted by the lights should be enough to protect the tree, and it looks festive!
Chicken wire – When using the chicken wire method, lace 4 stakes, 3 feet apart, in a square with the palm at the center. Wrap 1-2” chicken wire or fencing wire around the posts to create a basket of about 3-4 feet high. Fill the “basket” with leaves. Remove the leaves in early March. Pipe insulation – When using water pipe insulation, cover the soil around the trees with mulch to protect the roots. Wrap the first 3-6 leaves and the trunk with water pipe insulation. Fold the top over to keep water from getting inside the insulation. Again, in March, remove the wrapping and mulch. Heat tape – Lastly, you can winterize the palm tree by using heat tape. Pull the fronds back and tie them. Wrap a heat tape (bought at a building supply store), around the trunk beginning at the base. Leave the thermostat out at the bottom of the trunk. Continue wrapping around the entire trunk up to the top. One 4′ tall palm needs a 15′ long heat tape. Then, wrap the trunk with 3-4 layer of burlap and secure with duct tape. Over top of all of this, wrap the entirety, including the fronds, with plastic wrap. Plug the tape into a ground fault receptacle. Remove the wrapping just as the weather begins to warm up lest you risk rotting the tree.
All of that is too much work for me. I am lazy. I use the Christmas lights and keep my fingers crossed. I am sure there are many other winter protection methods for palms. Use your imagination and be sure not to wrap the tree too far ahead of the cold and to unwrap it just as the weather warms.
Winter Palm Tree Care
Frost and freezing temperatures damage the tissue of plants, in general weakening them and leaving them susceptible to diseases. Cold snaps, in particular, are of concern. Winterizing your palm tree to protect it from cold damage may be of paramount importance, especially depending on your region. Winter palm tree care usually requires wrapping palm trees in winter. The question is how to wrap the palm tree for winter and with what?
How to Wrap Palm Trees for Winter
If your palm is small, you can cover it with a box or blanket and weigh it down. Don’t leave the cover on for longer than 5 days. You can also cover a small palm with straw or similar mulch. Remove the mulch immediately when the weather warms up. As to winterizing a palm tree by wrapping it, there are 4 basic methods: stringing Christmas lights, the chicken wire method, utilizing heat tape and using water pipe insulation. Christmas lights – Christmas lights to wrap the palm are the easiest method. Do not use the newer LED lights, but stick with good old-fashioned bulbs. Tie the leaves together into a bundle and wrap them with a string of lights. The heat emitted by the lights should be enough to protect the tree, and it looks festive!
Chicken wire – When using the chicken wire method, lace 4 stakes, 3 feet apart, in a square with the palm at the center. Wrap 1-2” chicken wire or fencing wire around the posts to create a basket of about 3-4 feet high. Fill the “basket” with leaves. Remove the leaves in early March. Pipe insulation – When using water pipe insulation, cover the soil around the trees with mulch to protect the roots. Wrap the first 3-6 leaves and the trunk with water pipe insulation. Fold the top over to keep water from getting inside the insulation. Again, in March, remove the wrapping and mulch. Heat tape – Lastly, you can winterize the palm tree by using heat tape. Pull the fronds back and tie them. Wrap a heat tape (bought at a building supply store), around the trunk beginning at the base. Leave the thermostat out at the bottom of the trunk. Continue wrapping around the entire trunk up to the top. One 4′ tall palm needs a 15′ long heat tape. Then, wrap the trunk with 3-4 layer of burlap and secure with duct tape. Over top of all of this, wrap the entirety, including the fronds, with plastic wrap. Plug the tape into a ground fault receptacle. Remove the wrapping just as the weather begins to warm up lest you risk rotting the tree.
All of that is too much work for me. I am lazy. I use the Christmas lights and keep my fingers crossed. I am sure there are many other winter protection methods for palms. Use your imagination and be sure not to wrap the tree too far ahead of the cold and to unwrap it just as the weather warms.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Don’t look for the typical lobed oak leaves to identify chinkapin oak trees (Quercus muehlenbergii). These oaks grow leaves that are toothed like those of chestnut trees, and are often misidentified because of this. On the other hand, some facts about chinkapin trees help you recognize them as part of the oak tree family. For example, chinkapin oak trees, like all oaks, grow clusters of buds at the end of branches. Read on for more chinkapin oak information.
Facts About Chinkapin Trees
Chinkapins are native to this country, growing naturally in the wild from New England to the Mexican border. As part of the group of white oaks, they bear very pale, white bark. Their trunks can grow to 3 feet in diameter.
Chinkapins are not small trees, growing to 80 feet in the wild and 50 feet tall when cultivated. The breadth of the open, rounded canopy tends to approximate the height of the tree. These oaks are planted extensively as shade trees in appropriate hardiness zones.
The leaves of the chinkapin oak tree are particularly lovely. The tops of the leaves are yellow-green, while the undersides are pale silver. The leaves flutter like those of aspens in the breeze. In the fall, the leaves turn bright yellow, contrasting beautifully with the white bark. Chinkapin acorns appear without stalks and they mature in just one season. They are between ½ inch and 1 inch long and are edible if cooked. The wood of these oaks is hard and durable. It is known to take a fine polish and is used for furniture, fencing and barrels.
Additional Chinkapin Oak Information
Growing a chinkapin oak tree is easier if you start the young tree in its permanent site. These oaks are difficult to transplant once established. Plant chinkpin in a location with full sun and well-draining soil. The species prefers moist, fertile soils, but tolerates many different types of soil. It is one of the only white oak trees to accept alkaline soils without developing chlorosis.
Care for chinkapin trees is easy once they are established. Irrigate this native tree only if the weather is very hot or dry. It has no serious disease or insect problems so requires no spraying.
Facts About Chinkapin Trees
Chinkapins are native to this country, growing naturally in the wild from New England to the Mexican border. As part of the group of white oaks, they bear very pale, white bark. Their trunks can grow to 3 feet in diameter.
Chinkapins are not small trees, growing to 80 feet in the wild and 50 feet tall when cultivated. The breadth of the open, rounded canopy tends to approximate the height of the tree. These oaks are planted extensively as shade trees in appropriate hardiness zones.
The leaves of the chinkapin oak tree are particularly lovely. The tops of the leaves are yellow-green, while the undersides are pale silver. The leaves flutter like those of aspens in the breeze. In the fall, the leaves turn bright yellow, contrasting beautifully with the white bark. Chinkapin acorns appear without stalks and they mature in just one season. They are between ½ inch and 1 inch long and are edible if cooked. The wood of these oaks is hard and durable. It is known to take a fine polish and is used for furniture, fencing and barrels.
Additional Chinkapin Oak Information
Growing a chinkapin oak tree is easier if you start the young tree in its permanent site. These oaks are difficult to transplant once established. Plant chinkpin in a location with full sun and well-draining soil. The species prefers moist, fertile soils, but tolerates many different types of soil. It is one of the only white oak trees to accept alkaline soils without developing chlorosis.
Care for chinkapin trees is easy once they are established. Irrigate this native tree only if the weather is very hot or dry. It has no serious disease or insect problems so requires no spraying.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
Don’t let the fluffy flowers and lacy foliage fool you. Mimosa trees may not be the perfect ornamental for your garden. If you read up on mimosa tree facts before you plant, you will learn that mimosa is a short-lived tree with weak wood. Moreover, these trees are invasive; they readily escape cultivation and establish in clumps of mimosa tree weeds in disturbed roadside areas, shading out native species. Read on for information on mimosa tree management and control of mimosa trees.
Mimosa Tree Facts
Nobody can deny that the pink pompom flowers of the mimosa tree are attractive. They appear in late spring and early summer on the tips of the small tree’s spreading branches. The tree rarely grows above 40 feet, and its branches grow horizontally on the upper section of the trunk. As it matures, it looks a little like a yard parasol.
The mimosa was imported as an ornamental from Asia and attracts gardeners with its fragrant and pretty blossoms. However, mimosa tree management proved more difficult than expected.
The trees produce thousands of seeds annually in dangling seed pods. Since the seeds require scarification, they can stay in the soil for many years and remain viable. They are spread by birds and other wildlife into nature where they colonize any disturbed areas. Seedlings are often weak and weedy, sometimes termed mimosa tree weeds. Mimosa also propagates vegetatively. The tree produces sprouts around it that can grow into unsightly clumps, difficult to eradicate. Indeed, control of mimosa tree is very difficult once it colonizes property.
It is difficult to get rid of a mimosa tree once it has spread, since the seedlings adapt to most soils. Moreover, the plants are not affected at all by hot or dry weather and don’t mind root disturbance. Once you remove native vegetation, the mimosa seeds will leap in to colonize the area. The one thing force of nature effective to get rid of mimosa tree seedlings is cold. One good frost takes them out and that is why one rarely sees mimosa tree weeds or trees crowding along the roadsides in the North.
How to Get Rid of Mimosa Trees
The best way to control mimosa trees is by not planting one in your yard or, if you’ve already planted one, removing it before it seeds. Absent that, you can try to remove it using a variety of mechanical controls. Cutting the trees off at ground level certainly acts to get rid of mimosa trees, but the trunks will respout. Repeated cutting of spouts or use of an herbicide is required to stop the sprouts. Girdling is also an effective way to get rid of mimosa trees. Cut off a strip of bark all around the tree about six inches above the soil. Make the cut deep. This will kill the top of the tree, but the same resprout problem remains.
You can also take control of mimosa trees by spraying the leaves with a solution of 2% glyphosate or triclopyr plus a 0.25% non-ionic surfactant. Both of these products are systemic herbicides that travel through a plant all the way to the roots. Use triclopyr if you mean to conserve other plants in the area.
Mimosa Tree Facts
Nobody can deny that the pink pompom flowers of the mimosa tree are attractive. They appear in late spring and early summer on the tips of the small tree’s spreading branches. The tree rarely grows above 40 feet, and its branches grow horizontally on the upper section of the trunk. As it matures, it looks a little like a yard parasol.
The mimosa was imported as an ornamental from Asia and attracts gardeners with its fragrant and pretty blossoms. However, mimosa tree management proved more difficult than expected.
The trees produce thousands of seeds annually in dangling seed pods. Since the seeds require scarification, they can stay in the soil for many years and remain viable. They are spread by birds and other wildlife into nature where they colonize any disturbed areas. Seedlings are often weak and weedy, sometimes termed mimosa tree weeds. Mimosa also propagates vegetatively. The tree produces sprouts around it that can grow into unsightly clumps, difficult to eradicate. Indeed, control of mimosa tree is very difficult once it colonizes property.
It is difficult to get rid of a mimosa tree once it has spread, since the seedlings adapt to most soils. Moreover, the plants are not affected at all by hot or dry weather and don’t mind root disturbance. Once you remove native vegetation, the mimosa seeds will leap in to colonize the area. The one thing force of nature effective to get rid of mimosa tree seedlings is cold. One good frost takes them out and that is why one rarely sees mimosa tree weeds or trees crowding along the roadsides in the North.
How to Get Rid of Mimosa Trees
The best way to control mimosa trees is by not planting one in your yard or, if you’ve already planted one, removing it before it seeds. Absent that, you can try to remove it using a variety of mechanical controls. Cutting the trees off at ground level certainly acts to get rid of mimosa trees, but the trunks will respout. Repeated cutting of spouts or use of an herbicide is required to stop the sprouts. Girdling is also an effective way to get rid of mimosa trees. Cut off a strip of bark all around the tree about six inches above the soil. Make the cut deep. This will kill the top of the tree, but the same resprout problem remains.
You can also take control of mimosa trees by spraying the leaves with a solution of 2% glyphosate or triclopyr plus a 0.25% non-ionic surfactant. Both of these products are systemic herbicides that travel through a plant all the way to the roots. Use triclopyr if you mean to conserve other plants in the area.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Striped maple trees (Acer pensylvanicum) are also known as “snakebark maple.” But don’t let this scare you away. This lovely little tree is an American native. Other species of snakebark maple exist, but Acer pensylvanicum is the only one native to the continent. For more striped maple tree information and tips for striped maple tree cultivation, read on.
Striped Maple Tree Information
All maples are not soaring, graceful trees with snow-white bark. According to striped maple tree information, this tree is a shrubby understory maple. It can be grown as a large shrub or a small tree. You’ll find this maple in the wild from Wisconsin to Quebec, from the Appalachians into Georgia. It is native to the rocky forests in this range.
These trees usually grow from 15 to 25 feet tall, although some specimens get to 40 feet tall. The canopy is rounded and sometimes the very top is flattened. The tree is much loved because of the unusual and interesting trunk. Striped maple tree bark is green with vertical white striping. The stripes sometimes fade as the tree matures, and the striped maple tree bark turn reddish brown.
Additional facts about striped maple trees include their leaves which can grow quite long, up to 7 inches. Each one has three lobes and looks a little like a goose foot. The leaves grow in pale green with pink overtones, but turn a deep green by summer’s end. Expect another color change in autumn when the foliage turns canary yellow. In May, you’ll see drooping racemes of tiny yellow flowers. These are followed by winged seed pods as summer passes. You can use the seeds for striped maple tree cultivation.
Striped Maple Tree Cultivation
If you are thinking of planting striped maple trees, they grow best in shaded areas or woodland gardens. As is typical with understory trees, striped maple trees prefer a shady location and cannot grow in full sun. Striped maple tree cultivation is easiest in well-drained soil. The soil need not be rich, but the trees thrive in moist soils that are slightly acidic.
One good reason for planting striped maple trees is to benefit local wildlife. This tree serves an important role as a browse plant for wildlife. Planting striped maple trees results in food for various animals, including red squirrels, porcupines, white-tailed deer and ruffed grouse.
Striped Maple Tree Information
All maples are not soaring, graceful trees with snow-white bark. According to striped maple tree information, this tree is a shrubby understory maple. It can be grown as a large shrub or a small tree. You’ll find this maple in the wild from Wisconsin to Quebec, from the Appalachians into Georgia. It is native to the rocky forests in this range.
These trees usually grow from 15 to 25 feet tall, although some specimens get to 40 feet tall. The canopy is rounded and sometimes the very top is flattened. The tree is much loved because of the unusual and interesting trunk. Striped maple tree bark is green with vertical white striping. The stripes sometimes fade as the tree matures, and the striped maple tree bark turn reddish brown.
Additional facts about striped maple trees include their leaves which can grow quite long, up to 7 inches. Each one has three lobes and looks a little like a goose foot. The leaves grow in pale green with pink overtones, but turn a deep green by summer’s end. Expect another color change in autumn when the foliage turns canary yellow. In May, you’ll see drooping racemes of tiny yellow flowers. These are followed by winged seed pods as summer passes. You can use the seeds for striped maple tree cultivation.
Striped Maple Tree Cultivation
If you are thinking of planting striped maple trees, they grow best in shaded areas or woodland gardens. As is typical with understory trees, striped maple trees prefer a shady location and cannot grow in full sun. Striped maple tree cultivation is easiest in well-drained soil. The soil need not be rich, but the trees thrive in moist soils that are slightly acidic.
One good reason for planting striped maple trees is to benefit local wildlife. This tree serves an important role as a browse plant for wildlife. Planting striped maple trees results in food for various animals, including red squirrels, porcupines, white-tailed deer and ruffed grouse.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Cypress trees are fast-growing North American natives that deserve a prominent place in the landscape. Many gardeners don’t consider planting cypress because they believe it only grows in wet, boggy soil. While it’s true that their native environment is constantly wet, once they’re established, cypress trees grow well on dry land and can even withstand occasional drought. The two types of cypress trees found in the U.S. are bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) and pond cypress (T. distichum).
Cypress Tree Info
Cypress trees have a straight trunk that tapers at the base, giving it a soaring perspective. In cultivated landscapes, they grow 50 to 80 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. These deciduous conifers have short needles with a feathery appearance. Most varieties have needles that turn brown in winter, but a few have lovely yellow or gold fall color. Bald cypress has a tendency to form “knees,” which are pieces of root that grow above the ground in odd and sometimes mysterious shapes. Knees are more common for trees grown in water, and the deeper the water, the taller the knees. Some knees reach a height of 6 feet. Although no one is sure about the function of knees, they may help the tree get oxygen when they are underwater. These projections are sometimes unwelcome in the home landscape because they make mowing difficult and they can trip passers-by.
Where Cypress Trees Grow
Both types of cypress trees grow well in areas with lots of water. Bald cypress grows naturally near springs, on lake banks, in swamps or in bodies of water that flow at a slow to moderate rate. In cultivated landscapes, you can grow them in almost any soil. Pond cypress prefers still water and doesn’t grow well on land. This variety is rarely used in home landscapes because it needs boggy soil that is low in both nutrients and oxygen. It grows naturally in Southeastern wetlands, including the Everglades.
How to Care for Cypress Trees
Growing cypress trees successfully depends on planting the in the right location. Choose a site with full sun or partial shade and rich, acid soil. Cypress trees are hardy is USDA zones 5 through 10. Drench the soil around the tree after planting and cover the root zone with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch. Give the tree a good soaking every week for the first few months. Cypress trees need water most in spring when they enter a growth spurt and in fall just before they go dormant. They can withstand occasional drought once established, but it’s best to water them if you haven’t had a drenching rain for more than a month.
Wait a year after planting before fertilizing a cypress tree for the first time. Cypress trees growing in a regularly fertilized lawn don’t generally need additional fertilizer once established. Otherwise, fertilize the tree every year or two with a balanced fertilizer or a thin layer of compost in fall. Spread a pound of balanced fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter over an area approximately equal to the spread of the canopy.
Cypress Tree Info
Cypress trees have a straight trunk that tapers at the base, giving it a soaring perspective. In cultivated landscapes, they grow 50 to 80 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 30 feet. These deciduous conifers have short needles with a feathery appearance. Most varieties have needles that turn brown in winter, but a few have lovely yellow or gold fall color. Bald cypress has a tendency to form “knees,” which are pieces of root that grow above the ground in odd and sometimes mysterious shapes. Knees are more common for trees grown in water, and the deeper the water, the taller the knees. Some knees reach a height of 6 feet. Although no one is sure about the function of knees, they may help the tree get oxygen when they are underwater. These projections are sometimes unwelcome in the home landscape because they make mowing difficult and they can trip passers-by.
Where Cypress Trees Grow
Both types of cypress trees grow well in areas with lots of water. Bald cypress grows naturally near springs, on lake banks, in swamps or in bodies of water that flow at a slow to moderate rate. In cultivated landscapes, you can grow them in almost any soil. Pond cypress prefers still water and doesn’t grow well on land. This variety is rarely used in home landscapes because it needs boggy soil that is low in both nutrients and oxygen. It grows naturally in Southeastern wetlands, including the Everglades.
How to Care for Cypress Trees
Growing cypress trees successfully depends on planting the in the right location. Choose a site with full sun or partial shade and rich, acid soil. Cypress trees are hardy is USDA zones 5 through 10. Drench the soil around the tree after planting and cover the root zone with 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch. Give the tree a good soaking every week for the first few months. Cypress trees need water most in spring when they enter a growth spurt and in fall just before they go dormant. They can withstand occasional drought once established, but it’s best to water them if you haven’t had a drenching rain for more than a month.
Wait a year after planting before fertilizing a cypress tree for the first time. Cypress trees growing in a regularly fertilized lawn don’t generally need additional fertilizer once established. Otherwise, fertilize the tree every year or two with a balanced fertilizer or a thin layer of compost in fall. Spread a pound of balanced fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter over an area approximately equal to the spread of the canopy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Crabapple trees are pretty easy to maintain and don’t require vigorous pruning. The most important reasons to prune are to maintain the tree’s shape, to remove dead branches, and to treat or prevent the spread of disease.
When to Prune a Crabapple Tree
The time for crabapple pruning is when the tree is dormant, but when the possibility of severely cold weather has passed. This means pruning should be done in late winter or early spring, depending on your local climate and temperatures. Suckers, the little shoots that come straight out of the ground around the base of the tree, can be pruned away at any time of year.
How to Prune Crabapples
When pruning crabapple trees, start by removing suckers and water sprouts. The suckers grow from the rootstock of your tree and if you allow them to develop, they can grow into new trunks, possibly of a completely different tree type. This is because your crabapple was grafted onto the rootstock of a different variety.
Water sprouts are small shoots that emerge at an angle between some of the main tree branches. They don’t usually produce fruit and crowd other branches, increasing the risk of disease spreading from one branch to another. The next step in cutting back crabapple trees is to remove any dead branches. Remove them at the base.
Once you have taken off any dead branches, water sprouts, and suckers, you have to be a little more judicious about what to remove next. Remove branches to create a pleasing shape, but also consider removing branches to help them stay well-spaced from each other. Crowded branches make the spread of disease easier. You may also want to remove branches that hang too low and impede movement under the tree, especially if planted in an area frequented by passersby.
Just remember to keep your crabapple pruning simple and minimal. This tree doesn’t require heavy pruning, so take your time and consider how you want it to look before you start removing branches.
When to Prune a Crabapple Tree
The time for crabapple pruning is when the tree is dormant, but when the possibility of severely cold weather has passed. This means pruning should be done in late winter or early spring, depending on your local climate and temperatures. Suckers, the little shoots that come straight out of the ground around the base of the tree, can be pruned away at any time of year.
How to Prune Crabapples
When pruning crabapple trees, start by removing suckers and water sprouts. The suckers grow from the rootstock of your tree and if you allow them to develop, they can grow into new trunks, possibly of a completely different tree type. This is because your crabapple was grafted onto the rootstock of a different variety.
Water sprouts are small shoots that emerge at an angle between some of the main tree branches. They don’t usually produce fruit and crowd other branches, increasing the risk of disease spreading from one branch to another. The next step in cutting back crabapple trees is to remove any dead branches. Remove them at the base.
Once you have taken off any dead branches, water sprouts, and suckers, you have to be a little more judicious about what to remove next. Remove branches to create a pleasing shape, but also consider removing branches to help them stay well-spaced from each other. Crowded branches make the spread of disease easier. You may also want to remove branches that hang too low and impede movement under the tree, especially if planted in an area frequented by passersby.
Just remember to keep your crabapple pruning simple and minimal. This tree doesn’t require heavy pruning, so take your time and consider how you want it to look before you start removing branches.
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