文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kiwi Aeonium (Aeonium ‘Kiwi’) adds year-round color and texture to gardens with its colorful foliage, which has shades of chartreuse, cream and red. It grows U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, where it grows equally well in containers and low-water landscaping beds. Kiwi Aeonium propagates best by vegetative methods, but they will also grow from seed. Seed-grown plants sometimes differ in appearance because they’re hybrids.
Seed Propagation
Propagating Kiwi Aeonium from seed is a gamble because the resulting seedlings may not closely resemble the parent plant. The seeds are highly viable and will germinate freely if sown while still fresh. Sow the seeds in a nursery flat filled with a neutral, fast-draining medium. Mix the minuscule, dustlike seed with a pinch of fine sand to make sowing easier. Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture across the surface of the medium and do not cover it with soil. Expose the seeds to temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius), keep them moderately moist and watch for the first seedlings in five to 10 days. Thin out the seedlings so only one remains in each 1 square inch (6.5 square cm) area, then transplant them into small pots once they produce a mature set of leaves.
Stem Cutting Propagation
Stem cutting propagation is the simplest and most effective means of propagating Kiwi Aeonium. The cuttings will root any time of year, although those taken during the spring and summer months root fastest and are least likely to develop rot. Take a 3-6-inch (7.6-15 cm) tip cutting and place it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun for two to five days, or until the severed end calluses over. Pinch off the lowest sets of leaves and pot the cutting in a pot filled with porous, fast-draining medium. Keep it in a bright spot, water it lightly and watch for renewed growth in around four weeks.
Division Propagation
Older, well-established Kiwi Aeonium produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, which can be divided to grow new plants. The offshoots emerge around the base of the plant and are connected to the main stem. It is best to wait until the offshoot has developed a root system before cutting it from the main plant and potting it, but it isn’t absolutely necessary to wait. Unrooted offshoots can be severed, allowed to callus over and potted in a similar way as cuttings. The offshoots perform best when potted in spring or summer, but they will root any time of year if kept under warm, bright conditions.
Planting and Aftercare
No matter how you propagate Kiwi Aeonium, the resulting plants must be allowed to produce a viable root system before planting them into a garden bed. Grow the immature Kiwi Aeonium in a sheltered spot with morning shade and afternoon sun until they produce several sets of leaves. Slowly acclimate them to full, all-day sun over the course of a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the soil has a chance to dry out slightly between waterings. Move the Kiwi Aeonium into a sunny bed or permanent planter in fall, just as they enter dormancy. Water them occasionally during their first summer, but only if no rain has fallen for longer than three weeks.
Seed Propagation
Propagating Kiwi Aeonium from seed is a gamble because the resulting seedlings may not closely resemble the parent plant. The seeds are highly viable and will germinate freely if sown while still fresh. Sow the seeds in a nursery flat filled with a neutral, fast-draining medium. Mix the minuscule, dustlike seed with a pinch of fine sand to make sowing easier. Sprinkle the sand and seed mixture across the surface of the medium and do not cover it with soil. Expose the seeds to temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius), keep them moderately moist and watch for the first seedlings in five to 10 days. Thin out the seedlings so only one remains in each 1 square inch (6.5 square cm) area, then transplant them into small pots once they produce a mature set of leaves.
Stem Cutting Propagation
Stem cutting propagation is the simplest and most effective means of propagating Kiwi Aeonium. The cuttings will root any time of year, although those taken during the spring and summer months root fastest and are least likely to develop rot. Take a 3-6-inch (7.6-15 cm) tip cutting and place it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sun for two to five days, or until the severed end calluses over. Pinch off the lowest sets of leaves and pot the cutting in a pot filled with porous, fast-draining medium. Keep it in a bright spot, water it lightly and watch for renewed growth in around four weeks.
Division Propagation
Older, well-established Kiwi Aeonium produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, which can be divided to grow new plants. The offshoots emerge around the base of the plant and are connected to the main stem. It is best to wait until the offshoot has developed a root system before cutting it from the main plant and potting it, but it isn’t absolutely necessary to wait. Unrooted offshoots can be severed, allowed to callus over and potted in a similar way as cuttings. The offshoots perform best when potted in spring or summer, but they will root any time of year if kept under warm, bright conditions.
Planting and Aftercare
No matter how you propagate Kiwi Aeonium, the resulting plants must be allowed to produce a viable root system before planting them into a garden bed. Grow the immature Kiwi Aeonium in a sheltered spot with morning shade and afternoon sun until they produce several sets of leaves. Slowly acclimate them to full, all-day sun over the course of a week. Water deeply but infrequently so the soil has a chance to dry out slightly between waterings. Move the Kiwi Aeonium into a sunny bed or permanent planter in fall, just as they enter dormancy. Water them occasionally during their first summer, but only if no rain has fallen for longer than three weeks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Crassula ovata, commonly called Jade Plant, is among the most common houseplants, although they are hardy outdoors to United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Native to southern Africa, this plant is easily recognized by its smooth, stubby, succulent leaves. They propagate easily from cuttings and because they are so tolerant of neglect, newly propagated Jade Plants make excellent gifts for new gardeners.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, also known as Flaming Katy is a tropical succulent that is native to Madagascar. This flowering plant is most commonly grown as a houseplant but grows well outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. A short-day plant, Flaming Katy produces blooms during the winter months. Young Flaming Katy plants have smooth stems and thick leaves. The plant roots readily from a vegetative shoot and many growers use this type of propagation for Kalanchoe blossfeldiana production. Commercial growers use intermittent mist and heat mats to propagate Flaming Katy, but you can make Flaming Katy cuttings without a professional setup.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings.
4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings.
4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月21日
De entre las plantas de interior hay que destacar a las trepadoras, son muy decorativas cuando las colocamos en un lugar elevado y dejamos que sus tallos cuelguen libremente. Vamos a ver 11 trepadoras de interior que nos permitirán hacer buen uso de sus cualidades para decorar nuestra casa.
El Philodendron hederaceum es uno de las más de 700 especies que forman el género Philodendron. Es una planta trepadora originaria de América del Sur y el Caribe. No necesita mucha luz para vivir. La regaremos cuando el sustrato esté seco.
La hiedra se puede cultivar también en interior. Aunque puede adaptarse a condiciones lumínicas muy diversas es mejor que le reservemos un lugar bien luminoso donde reciba la luz del sol de forma indirecta. Para su cultivo en interior escogeremos una maceta más bien amplia aunque no sea muy profunda. Más información sobre hiedras decorativas aquí.
Los potos son una de las plantas de interior más fáciles de cultivar. Conocidas por su resistencia son la planta ideal de los jardineros noveles. Puede crecer con muy poca luz y sólo necesitará que mantengamos su sustrato ligeramente húmedo.
El betel es una planta originaria de Malasia que se ha extendido a otros países cercanos. Es una planta con muchos usos culinarios y medicinales. Se puede cultivar en interior en un lugar luminoso y manteniendo siempre el sustrato ligeramente húmedo.
Muchas variedades de jazmín se pueden cultivar en interior. Convendrá situar nuestro jazmín en un lugar donde reciba algunas horas de sol directo cada día. Hay muchas variedades de jazmín y su elección dependerá en gran medida del clima donde vivamos. En zonas frías un Jasminum polyanthum crecerá muy bien en nuestra casa. En lugares cálidos o de clima templado tenemos muchas más especies a elegir.
El ficus tapizante o ficus trepador, Ficus pumila, es una planta vigorosa de lento crecimiento. Sus tallos se aferran a cualquier superficie y sus hojas pueden ser de color verde oscuro o variegadas. Hay que tener cuidado de no regar en exceso. Dejaremos que el sustrato seque bien entre riegos.
El singonio o planta cabeza de flecha, Syngonium podophyllum, es una planta trepadora de interior que necesita mucha luz difusa y riegos moderados. Controlar los riegos pues un exceso de humedad pudre sus raíces con facilidad.
La hoya o flor de cera, Hoya carnosa, es una trepadora con hojas carnosas y de aspecto céreo, de ahí uno de sus nombres vulgares. Sus flores son muy aromáticas y es una planta que necesita muy poco riego.
La planta rosario o guisantes de la suerte, Senecio rowleyanus, es una planta suculenta con crecimiento rastrero. Resulta muy fácil de cultivar y no requiere grandes cuidados. Resiste bien la sequía y necesita bastante luz para crecer.
La Thunbergia alata recibe infinidad de nombres vulgares, Susana de los ojos negros, ojos de poeta y un largo etcétera. Necesita una disposición muy luminosa, junto a una ventana será ideal. Según el clima donde vivamos se comportará como planta perenne o anual.
La Callisia fragans es una planta suculenta de hoja perenne originaria de México. Sus largas rosetas forman un decorativo efecto cascada. Produce pequeñas flores de color blanco en panículas terminales. Admite diferentes intensidades de luz, incluso bastante bajas, aunque en este último caso puede que sus hojas pierdan su característico colorido.
El Philodendron hederaceum es uno de las más de 700 especies que forman el género Philodendron. Es una planta trepadora originaria de América del Sur y el Caribe. No necesita mucha luz para vivir. La regaremos cuando el sustrato esté seco.
La hiedra se puede cultivar también en interior. Aunque puede adaptarse a condiciones lumínicas muy diversas es mejor que le reservemos un lugar bien luminoso donde reciba la luz del sol de forma indirecta. Para su cultivo en interior escogeremos una maceta más bien amplia aunque no sea muy profunda. Más información sobre hiedras decorativas aquí.
Los potos son una de las plantas de interior más fáciles de cultivar. Conocidas por su resistencia son la planta ideal de los jardineros noveles. Puede crecer con muy poca luz y sólo necesitará que mantengamos su sustrato ligeramente húmedo.
El betel es una planta originaria de Malasia que se ha extendido a otros países cercanos. Es una planta con muchos usos culinarios y medicinales. Se puede cultivar en interior en un lugar luminoso y manteniendo siempre el sustrato ligeramente húmedo.
Muchas variedades de jazmín se pueden cultivar en interior. Convendrá situar nuestro jazmín en un lugar donde reciba algunas horas de sol directo cada día. Hay muchas variedades de jazmín y su elección dependerá en gran medida del clima donde vivamos. En zonas frías un Jasminum polyanthum crecerá muy bien en nuestra casa. En lugares cálidos o de clima templado tenemos muchas más especies a elegir.
El ficus tapizante o ficus trepador, Ficus pumila, es una planta vigorosa de lento crecimiento. Sus tallos se aferran a cualquier superficie y sus hojas pueden ser de color verde oscuro o variegadas. Hay que tener cuidado de no regar en exceso. Dejaremos que el sustrato seque bien entre riegos.
El singonio o planta cabeza de flecha, Syngonium podophyllum, es una planta trepadora de interior que necesita mucha luz difusa y riegos moderados. Controlar los riegos pues un exceso de humedad pudre sus raíces con facilidad.
La hoya o flor de cera, Hoya carnosa, es una trepadora con hojas carnosas y de aspecto céreo, de ahí uno de sus nombres vulgares. Sus flores son muy aromáticas y es una planta que necesita muy poco riego.
La planta rosario o guisantes de la suerte, Senecio rowleyanus, es una planta suculenta con crecimiento rastrero. Resulta muy fácil de cultivar y no requiere grandes cuidados. Resiste bien la sequía y necesita bastante luz para crecer.
La Thunbergia alata recibe infinidad de nombres vulgares, Susana de los ojos negros, ojos de poeta y un largo etcétera. Necesita una disposición muy luminosa, junto a una ventana será ideal. Según el clima donde vivamos se comportará como planta perenne o anual.
La Callisia fragans es una planta suculenta de hoja perenne originaria de México. Sus largas rosetas forman un decorativo efecto cascada. Produce pequeñas flores de color blanco en panículas terminales. Admite diferentes intensidades de luz, incluso bastante bajas, aunque en este último caso puede que sus hojas pierdan su característico colorido.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Elephants eat it, but you need not fear for your Portulacaria unless you have a pet pachyderm. The plant is a succulent with fleshy, glossy leaves that grows as a small bush. They are only hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Elephant Bush (Portulacaria afra) thrive in bright light in a warm, draft free room. A few rules on how to care for Elephant Bush will help you grow a specimen of interest that may be a stand-alone plant or part of an intricate succulent garden.
Elephant Bush plant may get 6 – 20 feet (15 – 50 cm) tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive Jade Plant.
Growing Conditions
The home interior is an excellent place to grow Elephant Bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice.
Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing Elephant Bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant Bush work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
General Care
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs.
The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant Bush plants in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container.
Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation
Like most succulents, Elephant Bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot.
Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65˚F (18˚C). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
Elephant Bush plant may get 6 – 20 feet (15 – 50 cm) tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive Jade Plant.
Growing Conditions
The home interior is an excellent place to grow Elephant Bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice.
Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing Elephant Bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant Bush work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
General Care
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs.
The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant Bush plants in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container.
Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation
Like most succulents, Elephant Bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot.
Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65˚F (18˚C). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Aloe vera plant grows on kitchen windowsills across the United States. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 11, Aloe vera is grown outdoors in mild winter locations along the West Coast, the Southwest and the South. A native of Africa, it thrives in warm, mild climates outdoors or as a houseplant in brightly lit windows and sunrooms. With sufficient light, water and fertilizer, a mature Aloe vera may produce a spike, up to 3 foot (90 cm) tall with yellow flowers in late winter. The real Aloe vera has yellow flowers, but many of the clones available have orange flowers.
Remove the babies, or pups, from your Aloe vera plant. Cut the connection between the mother plant and babies with a sharp knife if necessary. Allow the cut edges to dry for 24 hours before planting the babies in fresh potting soil. The baby plants take energy that the mother plant will now put into blooming.
Repot your mature Aloe vera in the fall. Select a new flowerpot three to four times the width of the old flowerpot. Remove the Aloe vera from the flowerpot and nestle it into a new planting mix of 1 part perlite and 2 parts potting soil. Tamp the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.
Place the Aloe vera in a brightly lit, south-facing window. Your Aloe vera requires as much light as possible to bloom.
Soak the soil with water when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering; allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Aloe vera are succulents and require sufficient water to bloom.
Fertilize in December or January with a diluted 10-40-10 liquid fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer with double the recommended amount of water. Water the plant as usual, then drench the soil with the fertilizer solution. Fertilize after watering rather than during watering to avoid damaging the plant’s root system.
Maintain a daytime temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 30 degrees Celsius). Aloe vera are subtropical plants, blooming in the summer in their native habitat. They require warmth to produce flower stalks.
Fill a tray with pebbles and water. Place the Aloe vera‘s flowerpot onto the tray to maintain the humidity around the plant. If your home is dry due to central heating, run a warm steam humidifier to raise the humidity in the room.
Place a small fan in the room to keep the air circulating. Good air circulation discourages mold, mildew and some pests, such as spider mites, from infesting your houseplants.
Tips
A mature Aloe vera plant is 4 or more years old. A cactus potting mix is a suitable substitute for the perlite and potting soil mixture. If the fleshy leaves begin to shrivel, water thoroughly and monitor the plant to ensure it’s receiving enough water.
Warnings
Aloe vera have spines on the ends of their fleshy leaves. Work cautiously when repotting to avoid puncture wounds. Never allow your Aloe vera to stand in water; the roots will rot and the plant will die.
Remove the babies, or pups, from your Aloe vera plant. Cut the connection between the mother plant and babies with a sharp knife if necessary. Allow the cut edges to dry for 24 hours before planting the babies in fresh potting soil. The baby plants take energy that the mother plant will now put into blooming.
Repot your mature Aloe vera in the fall. Select a new flowerpot three to four times the width of the old flowerpot. Remove the Aloe vera from the flowerpot and nestle it into a new planting mix of 1 part perlite and 2 parts potting soil. Tamp the soil gently around the roots and water thoroughly.
Place the Aloe vera in a brightly lit, south-facing window. Your Aloe vera requires as much light as possible to bloom.
Soak the soil with water when the top inch of soil is dry. Avoid overwatering; allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Aloe vera are succulents and require sufficient water to bloom.
Fertilize in December or January with a diluted 10-40-10 liquid fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer with double the recommended amount of water. Water the plant as usual, then drench the soil with the fertilizer solution. Fertilize after watering rather than during watering to avoid damaging the plant’s root system.
Maintain a daytime temperature of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 30 degrees Celsius). Aloe vera are subtropical plants, blooming in the summer in their native habitat. They require warmth to produce flower stalks.
Fill a tray with pebbles and water. Place the Aloe vera‘s flowerpot onto the tray to maintain the humidity around the plant. If your home is dry due to central heating, run a warm steam humidifier to raise the humidity in the room.
Place a small fan in the room to keep the air circulating. Good air circulation discourages mold, mildew and some pests, such as spider mites, from infesting your houseplants.
Tips
A mature Aloe vera plant is 4 or more years old. A cactus potting mix is a suitable substitute for the perlite and potting soil mixture. If the fleshy leaves begin to shrivel, water thoroughly and monitor the plant to ensure it’s receiving enough water.
Warnings
Aloe vera have spines on the ends of their fleshy leaves. Work cautiously when repotting to avoid puncture wounds. Never allow your Aloe vera to stand in water; the roots will rot and the plant will die.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’, commonly called Black Rose, is an ornamental succulent grown for its purplish-black foliage, which is arranged in a rosette shape. It grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it adds year-round visual interest to garden beds. Although typically problem-free, Black Rose plants may sometimes drop leaves. Most causes are temporary or avoidable, although some may indicate a serious issue that must be addressed to save the plant’s life.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
Seasonal Dormancy
Black Rose plants grow actively in spring and early summer and from fall into early winter. They enter dormancy as summer temperatures climb, dropping their foliage rosettes to direct energy toward their stems, or growing tips, and roots. Fall rain revives the plants until colder temperatures set in and prompt a second, less profound dormancy period in winter. Leaf loss from seasonal dormancy is temporary and natural and is not accompanied by other worrying symptoms such as wilting, discoloration or stem dieback. You don’t need to do anything except wait and water the plant occasionally so the stem doesn’t dry out.
Cultural Problems
Cultural problems can cause massive damage to Black Rose plants, including leaf loss. Soggy soil and over-watering are perhaps the most common and serious cultural issues for Black Rose plants because too much water will drown the roots and may lead to root rot, particularly during cold weather. Temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit will also badly damage the leaf tips and may cause foliage loss. Conversely, direct sun exposure and temperatures above 100 F will also cause foliage loss and damage, particularly if the soil is too dry. Growing Black Rose plants in a fast-draining bed with light afternoon shade in hot, dry inland areas will help limit stress-related leaf loss, as will providing cover during cold or frosty weather.
Disease Damage
Root rot strikes when Black Rose plants are in cold, wet soil. It causes mushy, blackened stems and a general decline in the plant’s appearance and vigor, as well as leaf drop. Little can be done to help Black Rose plants afflicted with root rot, so prevention is key. Plant them in a bed or pot with gritty, fast-draining soil and provide adequate sun exposure to help keep the soil warm and dry. If symptoms of root rot appear, such as soft spots on the stem or minor leaf loss, stop all watering for several weeks to see if the problem will correct itself. If the symptoms persist and worsen, the plant may need to be replaced.
Pest Infestations
Serious infestations of mealybugs and spider mites may cause foliage loss in Black Rose plants, although it is rare in healthy, unstressed plants. Accompanying symptoms include discolored leaves, stem dieback and sticky or cottony reside between the leaves. Infestations of either type of pest can be treated with a liberal application of ready-to-use insecticidal soap applied to the tops and undersides of the leaves at seven- to 10-day intervals. Proper care will help prevent serious pest infestations in Black Rose plants, as will planting them in a bug-free site away from areas where infestations have previously occurred.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crassula ovata also known as Jade Plant is a succulent often used as a houseplant. This well-behaved plant blends into the landscape in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11, where it thrives on neglect. Few pests or diseases affect Jade Plant, but when white powdery mold appears on its leaves, it is often the result of environmental problems. If you have white mold on your Jade Plant, you’re more likely dealing with powdery mildew. True to their easy-care nature, though, Jade Plants bounce back from powdery mildew once it is properly treated. 
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is caused by several different fungi that grow in a thin layer on plant tissues. In perennial plants such as Jade Plant, the fungal bodies can overwinter in buds, re-emerging when conditions are ideal for their growth. Spores are often distributed by the wind to new, uninfected plants or spread in greenhouses from plant to plant. Temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16 and 27 degrees Celsius) are required for germination, along with a relative humidity above 90 percent. Standing water on leaves is not necessary and can actually inhibit spore germination in some cases. Standing water encourages other fungal growth, through, so it should be discouraged.
Damage
Powdery mildew begins as a white powdery coating on the plant’s leaf surfaces, but soon spreads, penetrating plant tissues and sending out spores. Emerging vegetation may be dwarfed or distorted and covered in white mildew. Jade Plants also develop corky brown lesions where powdery mildew is taking hold. If not addressed, this mildew will spread farther, resulting in leaf drop and the eventual death of the Jade Plant.
Cultural Control
Cultural control is effective for powdery mildew. Plant Jade Plants in full sun and trim them to encourage better air circulation. Reduce watering if the plant’s soil is often moist; always allow the soil to dry before watering Jade Plants. Powdery mildew spores can be killed with water, but be careful to wet the plant early in the day so that it can dry completely. Stop misting house Jade Plants, instead water them at the base of the plant since humidity around the plant is what encourages the growth of powdery mildew.
Chemical Control
Several chemicals are available for chronically infested plants or those that are victims of environmental conditions beyond the control of the gardener. Test a safer pesticide such as horticultural or neem oil on a small spot on your Jade Plant before spraying the entire plant thoroughly. If an outside Jade Plant yellows or shows signs of sunburn, utilize a sunshade until signs of powdery mildew are gone to prevent serious damage. Never apply horticultural oils when temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is caused by several different fungi that grow in a thin layer on plant tissues. In perennial plants such as Jade Plant, the fungal bodies can overwinter in buds, re-emerging when conditions are ideal for their growth. Spores are often distributed by the wind to new, uninfected plants or spread in greenhouses from plant to plant. Temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16 and 27 degrees Celsius) are required for germination, along with a relative humidity above 90 percent. Standing water on leaves is not necessary and can actually inhibit spore germination in some cases. Standing water encourages other fungal growth, through, so it should be discouraged.
Damage
Powdery mildew begins as a white powdery coating on the plant’s leaf surfaces, but soon spreads, penetrating plant tissues and sending out spores. Emerging vegetation may be dwarfed or distorted and covered in white mildew. Jade Plants also develop corky brown lesions where powdery mildew is taking hold. If not addressed, this mildew will spread farther, resulting in leaf drop and the eventual death of the Jade Plant.
Cultural Control
Cultural control is effective for powdery mildew. Plant Jade Plants in full sun and trim them to encourage better air circulation. Reduce watering if the plant’s soil is often moist; always allow the soil to dry before watering Jade Plants. Powdery mildew spores can be killed with water, but be careful to wet the plant early in the day so that it can dry completely. Stop misting house Jade Plants, instead water them at the base of the plant since humidity around the plant is what encourages the growth of powdery mildew.
Chemical Control
Several chemicals are available for chronically infested plants or those that are victims of environmental conditions beyond the control of the gardener. Test a safer pesticide such as horticultural or neem oil on a small spot on your Jade Plant before spraying the entire plant thoroughly. If an outside Jade Plant yellows or shows signs of sunburn, utilize a sunshade until signs of powdery mildew are gone to prevent serious damage. Never apply horticultural oils when temperatures are above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Zamioculcas zamiifolia also known as ZZ Plant thrives well in USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 9b through 11, and won’t tolerate so much as a hint of frost. The ZZ Plant is an ancient one whose prehistoric appearance may remind you of a cycad, though they aren’t related. Tough, drought resistant and low-light tolerant, this undemanding beauty may be the perfect plant for the forgetful or neglectful gardener. Gardeners who don’t water often are the ones this plant loves best.
1. Remove the ZZ Plant with yellowing leaves from its pot to rescue it. The discoloration is typically caused from too much water, which causes the water and food storing rhizomes to rot from fungal development. This so-called “eternal plant” will die from overwatering.
2. Shake as much soil from the root ball as you can. Discard it, don’t reuse it or add it to the compost heap as it’s probably infected with fungus. Set the plant on several layers of newspaper and examine the roots. You will probably find some soft, mushy roots and possibly rotting tubers as well. Using sharp, clean pruning shears, clip any diseased tissue that you see and discard it.
3. Pick any yellowing leaves off the ZZ Plant. If the stem is yellow, clip it off where it grows from the tuber. Check the tuber closely for signs of rot. Prune it out if it appears diseased.
4. Drench the roots and tubers with a fungicidal solution such as thiophanate-methyl. Follow the packaging instructions carefully.
5. Scrub the pot with hot, soapy water. Soak it in a solution of 9 parts water and 1 part bleach for 30 minutes. Rinse it thoroughly.
6. Combine equal parts cactus potting mix and perlite for an excellent ZZ Plant growing medium. Repot the plant, move it to a warm room with low lighting and withhold water for about a week to allow it to recover. ZZ Plants bounce back quickly from adversity and new shoots will soon emerge.
7. Return the ZZ Plant to its normal spot after a week of rest. This plant will do best with as much bright, indirect light as you can provide. While it will do well even in low light, more is better. Keep the temperature between 76 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (24 and 32 degrees Celsius), with a range of between 80 and 87 degrees Fahrenheit (27 and 30 degrees Celsius) being optimum. Temperatures below 76 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius) will inhibit the plant’s growth.
8. Water your ZZ Plant thoroughly to evenly moisten the soil surface throughout the growing season. Allow the plant to dry out slightly between waterings. Water again when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry. Water no more than once weekly during the winter. Do not allow it to stand in water.
9. Feed this plant a balanced water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half strength every two months while it is actively growing.
10. Set the ZZ Plant outdoors in a shady spot in the summer. It will appreciate the bright natural light and fresh air.
1. Remove the ZZ Plant with yellowing leaves from its pot to rescue it. The discoloration is typically caused from too much water, which causes the water and food storing rhizomes to rot from fungal development. This so-called “eternal plant” will die from overwatering.
2. Shake as much soil from the root ball as you can. Discard it, don’t reuse it or add it to the compost heap as it’s probably infected with fungus. Set the plant on several layers of newspaper and examine the roots. You will probably find some soft, mushy roots and possibly rotting tubers as well. Using sharp, clean pruning shears, clip any diseased tissue that you see and discard it.
3. Pick any yellowing leaves off the ZZ Plant. If the stem is yellow, clip it off where it grows from the tuber. Check the tuber closely for signs of rot. Prune it out if it appears diseased.
4. Drench the roots and tubers with a fungicidal solution such as thiophanate-methyl. Follow the packaging instructions carefully.
5. Scrub the pot with hot, soapy water. Soak it in a solution of 9 parts water and 1 part bleach for 30 minutes. Rinse it thoroughly.
6. Combine equal parts cactus potting mix and perlite for an excellent ZZ Plant growing medium. Repot the plant, move it to a warm room with low lighting and withhold water for about a week to allow it to recover. ZZ Plants bounce back quickly from adversity and new shoots will soon emerge.
7. Return the ZZ Plant to its normal spot after a week of rest. This plant will do best with as much bright, indirect light as you can provide. While it will do well even in low light, more is better. Keep the temperature between 76 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (24 and 32 degrees Celsius), with a range of between 80 and 87 degrees Fahrenheit (27 and 30 degrees Celsius) being optimum. Temperatures below 76 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius) will inhibit the plant’s growth.
8. Water your ZZ Plant thoroughly to evenly moisten the soil surface throughout the growing season. Allow the plant to dry out slightly between waterings. Water again when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry. Water no more than once weekly during the winter. Do not allow it to stand in water.
9. Feed this plant a balanced water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half strength every two months while it is actively growing.
10. Set the ZZ Plant outdoors in a shady spot in the summer. It will appreciate the bright natural light and fresh air.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Japanese beetles are 3/8" (8-11 mm) long and ¼" (5-7 mm) wide, brilliant metallic green insects with copper-brown wings whose hard body makes them unpalatable to many predators, including birds. To distinguish them from other metallic green or copper-colored beetles, the diagnostic sign is a row of 5 small tufts of white hairs under the wing covers on each side and a 6th pair at the tip of the abdomen. The larvae, called grubs, are grayish-white with a dark brown head. They are C-shaped when disturbed. The 1st instar (stage of an insect or arthropod between molts) is 1/16” (1.5 mm) long and the 3rd instar is 1¼” (32mm) long. They are found in the soil where they feed on the tender roots of vegetables, lawn grasses, and other plants.
Life Cycle
Japanese beetles overwinter as a partially grown grub in the soil below the frost line. The grubs resume feeding on grass roots in the spring, and then pupate near the soil surface. Adults emerge between May and July, depending on their geographic location . Adults live 30-45 days and feed, usually in groups, first on low-growing plants and then on tree leaves, working from the top of the plants downward. After feeding and mating, each female lays 1-5 eggs at a time before again feeding and mating until a total of 40-60 eggs are laid 2-4” under the soil surface in grassy areas. Most are laid by mid-August. The eggs hatch after 8-14 days, and the young grubs feed on fine grass roots until cold weather drives them below the frost line. Most are in the 3rd instar by this time. In spring the grubs come to the surface, continuing their development and forming a pupa in an earthen cell 1-3" deep in the soil.
Japanese beetle adults are active for about 6 weeks in the summer. Since adult beetle damage is primarily aesthetic, control is not essential for survival of ornamental plants. Because they are strong fliers and frequently move about, by season’s end, adults are capable of having traveled many miles from where they lived as grubs. As a result, local beetle control does not insure less grub damage to lawns. Likewise, local grub control will not necessarily prevent adult damage to garden plants.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies:
1. Hand-pick adult beetles. If only a few adults are present, shake plants early in the morning (~ 7 a.m.) when they are sluggish. They should be collected and dropped into a container of soapy water. Any beetles or damaged leaves will attract more insects and should be removed..
2. Pheromone traps. Research has found that pheromone traps attract many more beetles than they catch and probably do more harm than good to plants in the beetles’ flight path and near the traps. Their use is not recommended.
3. Use insecticides if necessary. To control adults, one of two very safe pesticide, pyrethrum or Neem, can be applied in two applications, 3 to 4 days apart, to control the problem. If something stronger is needed, carbaryl (Sevin) may be used (every 5-10 days during heavy infestation) with monitoring for mites or aphids, in which case acephate (Orthene; more toxic) or malathion should be used. Other insecticides include Turcam, Closure (bendiocarb), permethrin, and synthetic pyrethroids. With any insecticide, efficacy will be decreased if there is heavy rainfall shortly after application of the chemical.
To control grubs present in damaging numbers, newer chemicals, Merit (imidacloprid) and MACH2 (halofenozide), applied in June and July 20 days before anticipated Japanese beetle adult egg-laying activity, have enough residual to kill new grubs coming to the soil surface to feed in late July through August. It is important to apply evenly over all the ground and to water in well. These chemicals will also be effective on other grub species when applied at the appropriate times.
4. Biological controls. The hard body of the beetle makes them unpalatable to many predators, such as birds. However, toads, moles, shrews, and skunks are known to feed on the beetles.
To control grubs, bacterial milky spore disease (Paenibacillus popillae, formerly known as Bacillus popillae) can be applied as a dust for Japanese beetle grub control and must be ingested by the grub to be effective. Once inside the digestive tract; spores reproduce within the grub, eventually turning it an opaque milky white before killing it. Spores then disperse into the surrounding soil and can persist for many years, but do not spread until live hosts are present. The more grubs, the faster it spreads. Milky spore infects only Japanese beetle grubs and has no effect on beneficial organisms. Its efficacy is questionable and the spore count has to build up for 2-3 years, during which time no insecticides may be used. More research needs to be done.
Other biological controls are parasitic nematodes that need to be applied when the grubs are small, with irrigation before and after application. Species of Heterorhabditis are said to be more effective than strains of Steinernema carpocapsae.
5. Use trap crops. When practical, crops which are highly favored by Japanese beetles can be used to draw the adults away from other crops. Trap crops include: borage, white geraniums, grape vines, evening primroses, and zinnias. The beetles can be collected or killed on the trap crops. This method provides early detection and can limit the amount of spray needed to control the insects.
6. Select resistant plants. Among trees and shrubs are: ash, dogwood, American elder, shagbark hickory, holly, red and silver maple, oaks, pear, white poplar, sweet gum, and tulip tree; euonymus and common lilac.
Avoid planting the most susceptible plants: roses, grapes, and rose of Sharon; apple and crabapple, mountain ash, grey birch, American and horse chestnut, elm, linden, Japanese and Norway maple, London plane tree, Lombardy poplar, Prunus (cherry, etc.), sassafras, and black walnut.
Life Cycle
Japanese beetles overwinter as a partially grown grub in the soil below the frost line. The grubs resume feeding on grass roots in the spring, and then pupate near the soil surface. Adults emerge between May and July, depending on their geographic location . Adults live 30-45 days and feed, usually in groups, first on low-growing plants and then on tree leaves, working from the top of the plants downward. After feeding and mating, each female lays 1-5 eggs at a time before again feeding and mating until a total of 40-60 eggs are laid 2-4” under the soil surface in grassy areas. Most are laid by mid-August. The eggs hatch after 8-14 days, and the young grubs feed on fine grass roots until cold weather drives them below the frost line. Most are in the 3rd instar by this time. In spring the grubs come to the surface, continuing their development and forming a pupa in an earthen cell 1-3" deep in the soil.
Japanese beetle adults are active for about 6 weeks in the summer. Since adult beetle damage is primarily aesthetic, control is not essential for survival of ornamental plants. Because they are strong fliers and frequently move about, by season’s end, adults are capable of having traveled many miles from where they lived as grubs. As a result, local beetle control does not insure less grub damage to lawns. Likewise, local grub control will not necessarily prevent adult damage to garden plants.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies:
1. Hand-pick adult beetles. If only a few adults are present, shake plants early in the morning (~ 7 a.m.) when they are sluggish. They should be collected and dropped into a container of soapy water. Any beetles or damaged leaves will attract more insects and should be removed..
2. Pheromone traps. Research has found that pheromone traps attract many more beetles than they catch and probably do more harm than good to plants in the beetles’ flight path and near the traps. Their use is not recommended.
3. Use insecticides if necessary. To control adults, one of two very safe pesticide, pyrethrum or Neem, can be applied in two applications, 3 to 4 days apart, to control the problem. If something stronger is needed, carbaryl (Sevin) may be used (every 5-10 days during heavy infestation) with monitoring for mites or aphids, in which case acephate (Orthene; more toxic) or malathion should be used. Other insecticides include Turcam, Closure (bendiocarb), permethrin, and synthetic pyrethroids. With any insecticide, efficacy will be decreased if there is heavy rainfall shortly after application of the chemical.
To control grubs present in damaging numbers, newer chemicals, Merit (imidacloprid) and MACH2 (halofenozide), applied in June and July 20 days before anticipated Japanese beetle adult egg-laying activity, have enough residual to kill new grubs coming to the soil surface to feed in late July through August. It is important to apply evenly over all the ground and to water in well. These chemicals will also be effective on other grub species when applied at the appropriate times.
4. Biological controls. The hard body of the beetle makes them unpalatable to many predators, such as birds. However, toads, moles, shrews, and skunks are known to feed on the beetles.
To control grubs, bacterial milky spore disease (Paenibacillus popillae, formerly known as Bacillus popillae) can be applied as a dust for Japanese beetle grub control and must be ingested by the grub to be effective. Once inside the digestive tract; spores reproduce within the grub, eventually turning it an opaque milky white before killing it. Spores then disperse into the surrounding soil and can persist for many years, but do not spread until live hosts are present. The more grubs, the faster it spreads. Milky spore infects only Japanese beetle grubs and has no effect on beneficial organisms. Its efficacy is questionable and the spore count has to build up for 2-3 years, during which time no insecticides may be used. More research needs to be done.
Other biological controls are parasitic nematodes that need to be applied when the grubs are small, with irrigation before and after application. Species of Heterorhabditis are said to be more effective than strains of Steinernema carpocapsae.
5. Use trap crops. When practical, crops which are highly favored by Japanese beetles can be used to draw the adults away from other crops. Trap crops include: borage, white geraniums, grape vines, evening primroses, and zinnias. The beetles can be collected or killed on the trap crops. This method provides early detection and can limit the amount of spray needed to control the insects.
6. Select resistant plants. Among trees and shrubs are: ash, dogwood, American elder, shagbark hickory, holly, red and silver maple, oaks, pear, white poplar, sweet gum, and tulip tree; euonymus and common lilac.
Avoid planting the most susceptible plants: roses, grapes, and rose of Sharon; apple and crabapple, mountain ash, grey birch, American and horse chestnut, elm, linden, Japanese and Norway maple, London plane tree, Lombardy poplar, Prunus (cherry, etc.), sassafras, and black walnut.
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