文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original Knock Out rose (Rosa "Radrazz"), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, has exceptional disease resistance and requires little to no maintenance, including fertilizers. Joined by an expanded collection known as the Knock Out Family, the original Knock Out rose requires no fertilizer under normal conditions in healthy garden soil. With varieties hardy from USDA zones 4 through 11, Knock Out Family members share the same simple-care, low-nutrient requirements of the original Knock Out rose. If you choose to fertilize your Knock Out roses, timely applications and a light hand are essential.
First-Year Knock Outs
Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants.
Established Plants
If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations
In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush.
Northern Concerns
In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
First-Year Knock Outs
Although Knock Out roses don't require fertilizer at any stage of life, leaving them fertilizer-free is especially important their first year. Fertilizing newly planted roses can damage their tender young roots and delay the plants' establishment. Instead of fertilizers, focus on a proper planting site that suits Knock Out roses' other needs. Give your roses a location with well-drained soil and at least six to eight hours of full sunlight daily. More hours of direct sunlight translate to better health and more prolific blooms. Knock Outs do best in soil with a near-neutral pH level -- the point at which soil nutrients stay most available to plants.
Established Plants
If you chose to fertilize Knock Outs after they become established, wait until they have at least one full bloom cycle. Water before and after you fertilize them. Plants need water to absorb nutrients, and fertilizing dry soil can burn roots. Wait until the roses have 4 to 6 inches of new growth before you feed them in spring. Then wait until after the first flush of Knock Out blooms to feed them again. Use slow-release, water-soluble, granular fertilizer, with all three of its numbers -- for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium -- in the single digits, and follow its label instructions. One rose food manufacturer recommends feeding Knock Outs 3/4 cup of 3-4-3 fertilizer per bush every six weeks during the active growth period. Work the granules into the soil around the roses, several inches from their stems or canes.
Southern Considerations
In most areas, Knock Out roses grow 3 to 4 feet tall, but long, southern growing seasons produce Knock Outs two or more times that height. Their blooms continue almost year-round in some regions. These hard-working Knock Outs may benefit from extra nutrients. Louisiana State University Agricultural Center recommends twice yearly Knock Out pruning, with each session followed by fertilizer. Frequent watering of container-grown Knock Outs leaches nutrients from their soil, leaving the roses short on natural nutrition. In both cases, follow through with 3-4-3 fertilizer or a similar product at the same rate as for established roses. Sterilize your pruning blades with household disinfectant before and after pruning each rose bush.
Northern Concerns
In northern climates, unfertilized Knock Out roses naturally wind down and harden off as winter approaches. They drop their leaves and redirect their energy to below ground. If you fertilize Knock Out roses in northern climates, stop providing all fertilizers at least six to eight weeks before your location's average first fall frost date. Late-season fertilizer stimulates vulnerable new growth and inhibits the rose bushes from entering dormancy, lessening their cold hardiness and putting the entire plants at risk of cold damage or death. High-nitrogen fertilizers are particularly harmful. In early spring, cut your Knock Outs back to 12 inches tall because they'll triple in height, but forgo the follow-up fertilizer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Drought tolerant plants are important parts of the home landscape. Prickly pear plant is an excellent arid garden specimen that is appropriate for USDA plant hardiness zones 9 to 11. Growing prickly pear in colder climates can be done in containers where they are moved indoors when cold temperatures threaten. The question, “How to grow prickly pear?” is best answered with a little background on the plant.
Prickly Pear Plant Characteristics
Prickly pears are vigorously growing cactus with detachable spines which means they may not be suitable for every garden. The plants are perfect for the hot as a griddle areas of your garden. The plant is comprised of wide, flat, thick pads that are covered in spines and segmented stems. There are 181 species of prickly pear plant that range from low growing plants just over a foot high to 18 foot high giants.
Types of Prickly Pear
The wide range of cactus available for the home garden, provide a plant for every warm season situation. The diminutive Beavertail prickly pear (Opuntia basilaris) has bluish gray pads that are slightly triangular in shape and carried on a 20 inch tall frame that can spread 20 to 30 inches wide. The Indian fig prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) is a monster of a cactus that grows in a treelike habit. It bears an edible fruit and large orange or yellow flowers. The types of prickly pear have numerous descriptive names, among them bunny ears (Opuntia microdasys) and cow’s tongue (Opuntia engelmannii).
Planting Prickly Pear
The first thing to remember when planting prickly pear is to wear thick gloves and full length sleeves. It will be helpful to have a second pair of hands to keep the cactus stable when lowering it into the hole. Plant the prickly pear at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Some exterior support may be necessary for larger specimens while it establishes. Planting prickly pear cactus requires careful handling to avoid damaging the plant and you.
How to Grow a Prickly Pear
Prickly pears are easy to grow. They need well-drained soil and can survive on rainwater after established. During rooting, the plant should be irrigated every two or three weeks. When you choose a cactus, consider the size it will eventually become and plant it away from pathways and areas where people will brush against it. Growing prickly pear successfully relies on a warm, dry climate. You can easily grow your own prickly pear. Propagation from pads is quick and quite simple. The pads are actually specialized flattened stems. Six month old pads are removed from the plant and set out in a dry area to form a callus on the cut end for several weeks. A half and half mix of soil and sand is good for planting prickly pear pads. The pad will form roots in a few months. During this time, it needs support and should not be watered. The pad can be watered after it will stand on its own.
Prickly Pear Plant Characteristics
Prickly pears are vigorously growing cactus with detachable spines which means they may not be suitable for every garden. The plants are perfect for the hot as a griddle areas of your garden. The plant is comprised of wide, flat, thick pads that are covered in spines and segmented stems. There are 181 species of prickly pear plant that range from low growing plants just over a foot high to 18 foot high giants.
Types of Prickly Pear
The wide range of cactus available for the home garden, provide a plant for every warm season situation. The diminutive Beavertail prickly pear (Opuntia basilaris) has bluish gray pads that are slightly triangular in shape and carried on a 20 inch tall frame that can spread 20 to 30 inches wide. The Indian fig prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) is a monster of a cactus that grows in a treelike habit. It bears an edible fruit and large orange or yellow flowers. The types of prickly pear have numerous descriptive names, among them bunny ears (Opuntia microdasys) and cow’s tongue (Opuntia engelmannii).
Planting Prickly Pear
The first thing to remember when planting prickly pear is to wear thick gloves and full length sleeves. It will be helpful to have a second pair of hands to keep the cactus stable when lowering it into the hole. Plant the prickly pear at the same level it was growing in the nursery pot. Some exterior support may be necessary for larger specimens while it establishes. Planting prickly pear cactus requires careful handling to avoid damaging the plant and you.
How to Grow a Prickly Pear
Prickly pears are easy to grow. They need well-drained soil and can survive on rainwater after established. During rooting, the plant should be irrigated every two or three weeks. When you choose a cactus, consider the size it will eventually become and plant it away from pathways and areas where people will brush against it. Growing prickly pear successfully relies on a warm, dry climate. You can easily grow your own prickly pear. Propagation from pads is quick and quite simple. The pads are actually specialized flattened stems. Six month old pads are removed from the plant and set out in a dry area to form a callus on the cut end for several weeks. A half and half mix of soil and sand is good for planting prickly pear pads. The pad will form roots in a few months. During this time, it needs support and should not be watered. The pad can be watered after it will stand on its own.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Opuntia, or prickly pear cactus, is native to Mexico but grown all across its possible habitat of USDA zones 9 through 11. It usually grows to between 6 and 20 feet in height. Opuntia diseases occasionally occur, and one of the more common is Sammons’ Opuntia virus. Keep reading to learn more about Sammons’ virus of Opuntia cactus.
Treating Virus in Cactus Plants
Opuntia vulgaris, also known as Opuntia ficus-indica and more commonly as Indian fig prickly pear, is a cactus that produces tasty fruit. The pads of the cactus can be cooked and eaten as well, but the main draw are the edible orange to red fruits. There are a few common Opuntia diseases. Identifying a virus in cactus plants is essential, as some are much more of a problem than others. Sammons’ virus, for instance, is not a problem at all. It may make your cactus look a little strange, but it doesn’t affect the health of the plant and may, depending upon who you ask, make it look a little more interesting. That being said, it’s always better not to spread disease if you can help it.
What is Sammons’ Opuntia Virus?
So what is Sammons’ virus? Sammons’ Opuntia virus can be spotted in light yellow rings that appear on the pads of the cactus, earning the disease the alternate name of ringspot virus. Often, the rings are concentric. Studies show that the virus has absolutely no negative effects on the plant’s health. This is good, because there is no way to treat Sammons’ virus. Opuntia is the only known carrier of Sammons’ virus.
It doesn’t seem to be spread by insects, but it is borne through the plant’s sap. The most common means of spread is human propagation with infected cuttings. To keep the disease from spreading, make sure to propagate your cactus only with pads that show no signs of the disease.
Treating Virus in Cactus Plants
Opuntia vulgaris, also known as Opuntia ficus-indica and more commonly as Indian fig prickly pear, is a cactus that produces tasty fruit. The pads of the cactus can be cooked and eaten as well, but the main draw are the edible orange to red fruits. There are a few common Opuntia diseases. Identifying a virus in cactus plants is essential, as some are much more of a problem than others. Sammons’ virus, for instance, is not a problem at all. It may make your cactus look a little strange, but it doesn’t affect the health of the plant and may, depending upon who you ask, make it look a little more interesting. That being said, it’s always better not to spread disease if you can help it.
What is Sammons’ Opuntia Virus?
So what is Sammons’ virus? Sammons’ Opuntia virus can be spotted in light yellow rings that appear on the pads of the cactus, earning the disease the alternate name of ringspot virus. Often, the rings are concentric. Studies show that the virus has absolutely no negative effects on the plant’s health. This is good, because there is no way to treat Sammons’ virus. Opuntia is the only known carrier of Sammons’ virus.
It doesn’t seem to be spread by insects, but it is borne through the plant’s sap. The most common means of spread is human propagation with infected cuttings. To keep the disease from spreading, make sure to propagate your cactus only with pads that show no signs of the disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Elephants eat it, but you need not fear for your Portulacaria unless you have a pet pachyderm. The plant is a succulent with fleshy, glossy leaves that grows as a small bush. They are only hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Elephant bush houseplants (Portulacaria afra) thrive in bright light in a warm, draft free room. A few rules on how to care for elephant bush will help you grow a specimen of interest that may be a stand-alone plant or part of an intricate succulent garden.
Elephant Bush Succulents
Elephant bush plant may get 6- to 20-feet tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive jade plant. The home interior is an excellent place to grow elephant bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
Growing Elephant Bush Houseplants
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice. Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing elephant bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant bush succulents work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
How to Care for Elephant Bush
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs. The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant bush succulents in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container. Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation of Elephant Bush Succulents
Like most succulents, elephant bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot. Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
Elephant Bush Succulents
Elephant bush plant may get 6- to 20-feet tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive jade plant. The home interior is an excellent place to grow elephant bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
Growing Elephant Bush Houseplants
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice. Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing elephant bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant bush succulents work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
How to Care for Elephant Bush
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs. The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant bush succulents in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container. Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation of Elephant Bush Succulents
Like most succulents, elephant bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot. Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Habek mint plants are a member of the family Labiatae that are commonly cultivated in the Middle East but can be grown here in USDA hardy zones 5-11. The following habek mint information discusses the growing and uses for habek mint.
Habek Mint Information
Habek mint (Mentha longifolia ‘Habak’) crosses with other species of mint easily and, as such, it often doesn’t breed true. It can vary greatly in height, although it tends to be a couple of feet tall. Habek mint has a number of common names. One such name is ‘Bible mint.’ Because the herb is cultivated in the Middle East, this species is thought to be the mint mentioned in the New Testament, hence the name. This hardy perennial minthas pointed, mildly hairy leaves that, when bruised, give off a camphor-like aroma. The flowers are borne on long, mauve colored spikes. Habek mint plants, like all mint, are aggressive spreaders, and unless you wish them to take over, it is best to plant them in pots or otherwise restrain their rampant roaming.
Growing Habek Mint
This easily grown herb thrives in most soils so long as they are moist. Habek mint prefers sun exposure, although it will grow in partial shade. While plants can be started from seed, as mentioned, they may not breed true. The plant is easily propagated by division, however. Once the plant has flowered, cut it back to the ground, which will prevent it from coming back woody. Plants in containers should be divided in the spring. Divide the plant into quarters and replant one quarter back into the container along with fresh soil and organic fertilizer. Habek mint makes a great companion plant grown near cabbagesand tomatoes. The aromatic leaves deter pests that are attracted to these crops.
Uses for Habek Mint
Habek mint plants are employed both medicinally and for culinary uses. The essential oils of habek mint that give the plant its distinctive aroma are used for their medicinal properties. The oil is said to have stimulant anti-asthmatic, antiseptic and antispasmodic properties. A tea is made from the leaves and used for everything from coughs, colds, stomach cramps, and asthma to flatulence, indigestion and headaches. In Africa, parts of the plant are used to treat eye diseases. While the essential oils in the mint can be used as an antiseptic, large doses are toxic. Externally, this mint has been used to treat wounds and swollen glands. Decoctions of the leaves are also used as enemas. In the spring, the tender young leaves are hairless and can be used in cooking in place of spearmint. A common ingredient in both Middle Eastern and Greek foods, the scented leaves are used to flavor a variety of cooked foods and in salads and chutneys. The leaves are also dried or used fresh and steeped into tea. The essential oil from the leaves and flower tops is also used as a flavoring in sweets.
Habek Mint Information
Habek mint (Mentha longifolia ‘Habak’) crosses with other species of mint easily and, as such, it often doesn’t breed true. It can vary greatly in height, although it tends to be a couple of feet tall. Habek mint has a number of common names. One such name is ‘Bible mint.’ Because the herb is cultivated in the Middle East, this species is thought to be the mint mentioned in the New Testament, hence the name. This hardy perennial minthas pointed, mildly hairy leaves that, when bruised, give off a camphor-like aroma. The flowers are borne on long, mauve colored spikes. Habek mint plants, like all mint, are aggressive spreaders, and unless you wish them to take over, it is best to plant them in pots or otherwise restrain their rampant roaming.
Growing Habek Mint
This easily grown herb thrives in most soils so long as they are moist. Habek mint prefers sun exposure, although it will grow in partial shade. While plants can be started from seed, as mentioned, they may not breed true. The plant is easily propagated by division, however. Once the plant has flowered, cut it back to the ground, which will prevent it from coming back woody. Plants in containers should be divided in the spring. Divide the plant into quarters and replant one quarter back into the container along with fresh soil and organic fertilizer. Habek mint makes a great companion plant grown near cabbagesand tomatoes. The aromatic leaves deter pests that are attracted to these crops.
Uses for Habek Mint
Habek mint plants are employed both medicinally and for culinary uses. The essential oils of habek mint that give the plant its distinctive aroma are used for their medicinal properties. The oil is said to have stimulant anti-asthmatic, antiseptic and antispasmodic properties. A tea is made from the leaves and used for everything from coughs, colds, stomach cramps, and asthma to flatulence, indigestion and headaches. In Africa, parts of the plant are used to treat eye diseases. While the essential oils in the mint can be used as an antiseptic, large doses are toxic. Externally, this mint has been used to treat wounds and swollen glands. Decoctions of the leaves are also used as enemas. In the spring, the tender young leaves are hairless and can be used in cooking in place of spearmint. A common ingredient in both Middle Eastern and Greek foods, the scented leaves are used to flavor a variety of cooked foods and in salads and chutneys. The leaves are also dried or used fresh and steeped into tea. The essential oil from the leaves and flower tops is also used as a flavoring in sweets.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The pineapple sage plant is found in gardens to attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Salvia elegans is a perennial in USDA zones 8-11 and is often used as an annual in other places. The crushed plant leaves smell like pineapple, hence comes the common name of the pineapple sage plant. The easy care of pineapple sage is one more reason to have it in the garden.
Is Pineapple Sage Edible?
The fragrance may lead one to wonder is pineapple sage edible? Indeed it is. Leaves of the pineapple sage plant may be steeped for teas and the minty-tasting blossoms can be used as an attractive garnish for salads and deserts. Leaves are best used fresh. Pineapple sage flowers may also be used in jelly and jam concoctions, potpourri, and other uses limited only by the imagination. Pineapple sage has long been used as a medicinal herb with antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
How to Grow Pineapple Sage
Pineapple sage prefers a sunny location with well-draining soil that is consistently moist, although established plants will tolerate drought conditions. Pineapple sage is a semi-woody sub shrub that can get as tall as 4 feet with red flowers that bloom in late summer to early fall. Pineapple sage grows rapidly in a location with morning sun and afternoon shade. Those in more Northern zones may plant in a protected location, mulch in winter and experience perennial performance from the pineapple sage plant.
The tubular shaped flowers of the pineapple sage plant are a favorite of hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. Include these in the butterfly garden or the herb garden or plant in other areas where fragrance is desired. Combine this plant in groupings, with other sages for a plethora of flying friends in the garden.
Is Pineapple Sage Edible?
The fragrance may lead one to wonder is pineapple sage edible? Indeed it is. Leaves of the pineapple sage plant may be steeped for teas and the minty-tasting blossoms can be used as an attractive garnish for salads and deserts. Leaves are best used fresh. Pineapple sage flowers may also be used in jelly and jam concoctions, potpourri, and other uses limited only by the imagination. Pineapple sage has long been used as a medicinal herb with antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
How to Grow Pineapple Sage
Pineapple sage prefers a sunny location with well-draining soil that is consistently moist, although established plants will tolerate drought conditions. Pineapple sage is a semi-woody sub shrub that can get as tall as 4 feet with red flowers that bloom in late summer to early fall. Pineapple sage grows rapidly in a location with morning sun and afternoon shade. Those in more Northern zones may plant in a protected location, mulch in winter and experience perennial performance from the pineapple sage plant.
The tubular shaped flowers of the pineapple sage plant are a favorite of hummingbirds, butterflies and bees. Include these in the butterfly garden or the herb garden or plant in other areas where fragrance is desired. Combine this plant in groupings, with other sages for a plethora of flying friends in the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月26日
1. Luz
2. Viento
3. Humedad del aire
4. Sustratos
5. Riego de macetas
6. Abona para macetas
7. Limpiar las plantas
8. Aireado
9. Poda
10. Plagas y enfermedades
11. Cambio de maceta
1. Luz
• Según el sol que reciba la terraza por su orientación (Este, Oeste, Norte, etc.), deberás escoger plantas para sol o para sombra.
• Las plantas con flor, en general, necesitan más sol.
• Es bueno dar la vuelta regularmente a las macetas para que reciban la misma luz por todos lados, si no, te encontrarás con plantas torcidas y despobladas por una parte y con menos flores.
• No expongas nunca una que ha estado en sombra al sol directo de golpe y porrazo porque se pueden quemar las hojas; debes acostumbrarla progresivamente. Este es el caso, por ejemplo, de cuando se sacan a la terraza las plantas que han pasado el invierno en el interior.
• Los tiestos al sol se calientan mucho (más si es de color oscuro).
• Por debajo de los 0ºC los de barro se agrietan y pueden romperse. Los recipientes de barro sin cocer y la cerámica vidriada debes aislarlos con sacos de arpillera, plástico de burbujas, lonas, etc. para protegerlos de las heladas, o bien, situarlos en sitios protegidos. Las macetas de barro con grietas pequeñas se pueden arreglar rodeándolas con un alambre.
Falta de luz
¿Tus plantas florecen poco?
¿Tienen un crecimiento alargado?
¿Están poco frondosas y sin hojas por la parte de abajo?
Son síntomas de falta de luz.
2. Viento
Los vientos fríos del norte.
Los vientos cálidos que secan las plantas.
El viento costero que transporta sales que se depositan sobre las hojas y las queman. Protege las plantas de todo esto.
En condiciones difíciles de viento fuerte, elige especies duras.
3. Humedad del aire
Pulveriza con agua las hojas en tiempo seco sin mojar las flores, puesto que durarían menos.
Otros métodos para aumentar la humedad ambiental son:
Agrupándolas para crear un microclima húmedo.
Poniendo las macetas sobre un plato con piedras y agua pero sin que toque dicha agua el fondo del tiesto.
4. Sustratos
• Compra sustratos de calidad para macetas. Los hay muy bueno y muy malos.
• No emplees tierra de jardín porque contiene mucha arcilla, se compacta, lleva hongos, malas hierbas...
• Es muy recomendable mezclar perlita con el sustrato que compres. Proporcionará aireación y más retención del agua. Otro material bueno para mezclar en sustratos es la fibra de coco. Un ejemplo sería: turba + fibra + perlita, los tres a partes iguales.
• Si no encuentras ni perlita ni fibra de coco, usa para airear el sustrato arena de río gruesa y lavada o corcho blanco picado.
Cualquiera de estos cuatro materiales (perlita, fibra de coco, arena o corcho) proporciona aireación y además ahorrarás dinero puesto que son más baratos que la turba o el mantillo para hacer volumen.
• No te olvides de depositar en el fondo de la maceta o jardinera, sobre los agujeros, grava, arcilla expandida, trozos de cerámica, etc.. Y si tienes macetas en la ventana, pon una capa de gravilla sobre la tierra para que la lluvia no salpique de tierra los cristales.
5. Riego de macetas
• Error frecuentísimo en el cultivo de plantas en maceta es el exceso de riego que pudre las raíces. La falta de agua también es fatal, aunque siempre es mejor quedarse corto que pasarse.
• Si se te muere alguna, fíjate en primer lugar en cómo estás regando y comprueba si el recipiente tiene obstruido el orificio en la parte inferior por donde sale el agua sobrante.
• Para saber cuándo regar, el mejor método es introducir los dedos en el sustrato y verificar si está húmedo o seco. Otros métodos son:
Coge el mango de un cuchillo y golpea la maceta. Si se produce un ruido nítido o claro significa que la planta necesita agua. El sonido sordo indica que está llena. Pruébalo en una maceta antes y después de regar, verás como suena distinto.
Con práctica puedes notar al coger el tiesto en peso si tiene más agua o menos.
Medidores de humedad que se pinchan. También orienta.
• Es bueno que entre riego y riego se seque un poco la tierra. No es lo mismo una tierra húmeda que empapada.
• Más riego si está al sol y más también si le da el viento secante. Con viento caliente en verano, riega prácticamente a diario las macetas y jardineras.
• Si tienes macetas de barro, recuerda que las paredes son porosas y pierden agua por ahí. Necesitará más riego que una de plástico o esmaltada.
• Riega por la mañana temprano o al atardecer, no con el sol en todo lo alto.
• Si puedes, instala en la terraza un sistema de riego por goteo automatizado. En verano, cuando se riega casi a diario, te darás cuenta de lo cómodo que resulta.
• También existen jardineras de autorriego con un depósito que suministra el agua según vaya necesitándolo.
• En la temporada que las plantas dejen de echar flores, reduce la frecuencia de riego para no saturarlas, ya que precisan menos cantidad.
• Para intentar recuperar una planta excesivamente regada, saca con cuidado el cepellón del tiesto y envuélvelo en varias capas de papel de cocina absorbente. Déjalo todo así durante 24 horas. Si se empapan las hojas, ponle otras nuevas. Vuelve después a meter la planta en la maceta y no la riegues durante varios días.
• Es fundamental que drenen bien los orificios inferiores. Cúbrelos por dentro con trozos de cerámica de tiestos rotos mejor que grava y no se taponarán.
• Si pones un plato debajo de la maceta para que recoja el agua sobrante del riego o un cubremacetas, vacíalo al poco rato (por ejemplo, 30 minutos) ya que el agua estancada puede pudrir las raíces de la planta.
Consejos para ahorrar agua
1. Usa especies resistentes a la sequía (hay que regarlas menos).
2. Cubre la superficie del sustrato con cortezas de pino de grano fino, chinos, grava, bolitas de arcilla expandida, etc.; esto protegerá la humedad del sustrato.
3. Sombrea las especies más sensibles al calor.
4. Agrupa las plantas para crear un microclima húmedo.
5. El riego por la madrugada o al atardecer es lo mejor. Se pierde menos por evaporación y la planta la toma mejor.
2. Viento
3. Humedad del aire
4. Sustratos
5. Riego de macetas
6. Abona para macetas
7. Limpiar las plantas
8. Aireado
9. Poda
10. Plagas y enfermedades
11. Cambio de maceta
1. Luz
• Según el sol que reciba la terraza por su orientación (Este, Oeste, Norte, etc.), deberás escoger plantas para sol o para sombra.
• Las plantas con flor, en general, necesitan más sol.
• Es bueno dar la vuelta regularmente a las macetas para que reciban la misma luz por todos lados, si no, te encontrarás con plantas torcidas y despobladas por una parte y con menos flores.
• No expongas nunca una que ha estado en sombra al sol directo de golpe y porrazo porque se pueden quemar las hojas; debes acostumbrarla progresivamente. Este es el caso, por ejemplo, de cuando se sacan a la terraza las plantas que han pasado el invierno en el interior.
• Los tiestos al sol se calientan mucho (más si es de color oscuro).
• Por debajo de los 0ºC los de barro se agrietan y pueden romperse. Los recipientes de barro sin cocer y la cerámica vidriada debes aislarlos con sacos de arpillera, plástico de burbujas, lonas, etc. para protegerlos de las heladas, o bien, situarlos en sitios protegidos. Las macetas de barro con grietas pequeñas se pueden arreglar rodeándolas con un alambre.
Falta de luz
¿Tus plantas florecen poco?
¿Tienen un crecimiento alargado?
¿Están poco frondosas y sin hojas por la parte de abajo?
Son síntomas de falta de luz.
2. Viento
Los vientos fríos del norte.
Los vientos cálidos que secan las plantas.
El viento costero que transporta sales que se depositan sobre las hojas y las queman. Protege las plantas de todo esto.
En condiciones difíciles de viento fuerte, elige especies duras.
3. Humedad del aire
Pulveriza con agua las hojas en tiempo seco sin mojar las flores, puesto que durarían menos.
Otros métodos para aumentar la humedad ambiental son:
Agrupándolas para crear un microclima húmedo.
Poniendo las macetas sobre un plato con piedras y agua pero sin que toque dicha agua el fondo del tiesto.
4. Sustratos
• Compra sustratos de calidad para macetas. Los hay muy bueno y muy malos.
• No emplees tierra de jardín porque contiene mucha arcilla, se compacta, lleva hongos, malas hierbas...
• Es muy recomendable mezclar perlita con el sustrato que compres. Proporcionará aireación y más retención del agua. Otro material bueno para mezclar en sustratos es la fibra de coco. Un ejemplo sería: turba + fibra + perlita, los tres a partes iguales.
• Si no encuentras ni perlita ni fibra de coco, usa para airear el sustrato arena de río gruesa y lavada o corcho blanco picado.
Cualquiera de estos cuatro materiales (perlita, fibra de coco, arena o corcho) proporciona aireación y además ahorrarás dinero puesto que son más baratos que la turba o el mantillo para hacer volumen.
• No te olvides de depositar en el fondo de la maceta o jardinera, sobre los agujeros, grava, arcilla expandida, trozos de cerámica, etc.. Y si tienes macetas en la ventana, pon una capa de gravilla sobre la tierra para que la lluvia no salpique de tierra los cristales.
5. Riego de macetas
• Error frecuentísimo en el cultivo de plantas en maceta es el exceso de riego que pudre las raíces. La falta de agua también es fatal, aunque siempre es mejor quedarse corto que pasarse.
• Si se te muere alguna, fíjate en primer lugar en cómo estás regando y comprueba si el recipiente tiene obstruido el orificio en la parte inferior por donde sale el agua sobrante.
• Para saber cuándo regar, el mejor método es introducir los dedos en el sustrato y verificar si está húmedo o seco. Otros métodos son:
Coge el mango de un cuchillo y golpea la maceta. Si se produce un ruido nítido o claro significa que la planta necesita agua. El sonido sordo indica que está llena. Pruébalo en una maceta antes y después de regar, verás como suena distinto.
Con práctica puedes notar al coger el tiesto en peso si tiene más agua o menos.
Medidores de humedad que se pinchan. También orienta.
• Es bueno que entre riego y riego se seque un poco la tierra. No es lo mismo una tierra húmeda que empapada.
• Más riego si está al sol y más también si le da el viento secante. Con viento caliente en verano, riega prácticamente a diario las macetas y jardineras.
• Si tienes macetas de barro, recuerda que las paredes son porosas y pierden agua por ahí. Necesitará más riego que una de plástico o esmaltada.
• Riega por la mañana temprano o al atardecer, no con el sol en todo lo alto.
• Si puedes, instala en la terraza un sistema de riego por goteo automatizado. En verano, cuando se riega casi a diario, te darás cuenta de lo cómodo que resulta.
• También existen jardineras de autorriego con un depósito que suministra el agua según vaya necesitándolo.
• En la temporada que las plantas dejen de echar flores, reduce la frecuencia de riego para no saturarlas, ya que precisan menos cantidad.
• Para intentar recuperar una planta excesivamente regada, saca con cuidado el cepellón del tiesto y envuélvelo en varias capas de papel de cocina absorbente. Déjalo todo así durante 24 horas. Si se empapan las hojas, ponle otras nuevas. Vuelve después a meter la planta en la maceta y no la riegues durante varios días.
• Es fundamental que drenen bien los orificios inferiores. Cúbrelos por dentro con trozos de cerámica de tiestos rotos mejor que grava y no se taponarán.
• Si pones un plato debajo de la maceta para que recoja el agua sobrante del riego o un cubremacetas, vacíalo al poco rato (por ejemplo, 30 minutos) ya que el agua estancada puede pudrir las raíces de la planta.
Consejos para ahorrar agua
1. Usa especies resistentes a la sequía (hay que regarlas menos).
2. Cubre la superficie del sustrato con cortezas de pino de grano fino, chinos, grava, bolitas de arcilla expandida, etc.; esto protegerá la humedad del sustrato.
3. Sombrea las especies más sensibles al calor.
4. Agrupa las plantas para crear un microclima húmedo.
5. El riego por la madrugada o al atardecer es lo mejor. Se pierde menos por evaporación y la planta la toma mejor.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Scheffleras are very popular house plants that produce big dark or variegated palmate leaves (leaves made up of several smaller leaflets growing out of a single point). Hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, they are often kept in pots indoors in colder areas. However, life indoors in a pot can be hard on a plant, and can often result in leggy, unhealthy looking shapes. That’s when it’s time to prune. Keep reading to learn more about trimming schefflera houseplants and how to prune a schefflera.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is a distinctive plant easily recognized by its upright growth habit and thick, glossy, deep green leaves. Rubber plant thrives outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, but it is grown as an indoor plant in most climates. Although the plant is relatively trouble-free, it can fall prey to various pests and diseases that can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. What causes rubber plant leaves to curl? There are several possible reasons.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
Why Do Rubber Tree Leaves Curl?
Below are some of the most common reasons for leaf curl on rubber plants:
Chemical exposure – Rubber plants are susceptible to gas fumes, pesticides and other chemicals, even when toxicity levels are indiscernible by humans. Similarly, contaminants in garden soil or potting soil may cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Repotting in fresh soil may be necessary. Improper watering – Both over- and under-watering can cause leaf curl on rubber plants. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, then water deeply, using room temperature water, until water leaks through the drainage hole. If the soil feels moist, wait another day or two before watering. Even less water is needed during fall and winter, but don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Low humidity – Indoor rubber tree plant leaves curling may be a result of dry indoor air. A humidity tray can raise the moisture level around the plant. To make a humidity tray, place a layer of gravel or pebbles in a shallow tray or dish, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add water to the tray to keep the pebbles consistently wet, but don’t allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water, as moisture can leach up the drainage hole and rot the plant.
Pests – Small insects, such as aphids, spider mites and scale, may be what causes rubber tree leaves to curl. Inspect the plant carefully, especially the undersides of leaves and the points where leaves meet the stems. Most pests are easily controlled by spraying with insecticidal soap spray. Commercial products are best because they are carefully formulated for use on plants. If you make your own spray, a mild solution is best. Be sure soap is free of color, fragrance and other additives that may harm the plant. Don’t spray the plants during hot weather or when the sun is directly on the leaves. Environmental changes – A temperature change or a sudden move to another room may be responsible for a rubber plant with curling leaves. Watch out for excessive heat and cold, and protect the plant from drafts and cold windows. Rubber plants prefer bright, indirect light. Hot afternoon light may be too intense.
Cleaning products – Avoid commercial leaf shine products, which can clog the pores and cause leaf curl on rubber plants. A moist cloth safely removes dust and keeps leaves shiny.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cereus tetragonus is native to North America but is only suited for cultivation outside in USDA zones 10 to 11. The fairy castle cactus is the colorful name by which the plant is marketed and refers to the numerous vertical stems of different heights that resemble spires and turrets. The plant is a succulent with spines that bloom yellow infrequently. Growing fairy castle cactus inside your home is an easy beginning gardener project. These delicately limbed cacti provide all the charm of the fairy tale castles for which they are named.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Nothing shouts "Summer!" more emphatically than hanging baskets brimming with masses of petunias (Petunia spp.) Where they don't bloom year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones [10 through 11](http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=264607&isprofile=0&letter=p), petunias cover themselves in fragrant flowers – some up to 4 inches wide – from early spring until the first killing frost. Although hanging-basket petunias require more attention than their garden-planted counterparts, their enthusiastic performance is well worth the extra effort.
Feed for Flowers
The cascades of color that make petunia hanging baskets so appealing won't materialize without at least six hours of daily sun and regular doses of fertilizer. Producing all those trailing stems of flowers takes lots of energy.
To give them the best start, mix slow-release 5-10-5 granulated plant food into the soil before planting. One manufacturer recommends using 2 teaspoons for each 1 square foot of soil. After adding the petunias, fill the container with soil and water well.
Rain and maintenance watering both leach nutrients from hanging baskets. Yellowing leaves are a sign of nutrient deficiency. When they appear, begin fertilizing the petunias with liquid, 5-10-5 plant food every 10 days to two weeks for the remainder of the growing season. Mix a solution of 4 tablespoons, or the label's specified amount, of the plant food and 1 gallon of water.
Water Wisely
Hanging baskets dry out quickly. In hot, dry weather, petunias may need watering twice a day. Overwatering, however, may rot their roots. When you do water, stop only when water begins draining from the bottom of the baskets.
Groom for Growth
Many petunia varieties need regular grooming to look their best for an entire growing season. If their spent flowers are allowed to go to seed, they'll stop blooming. Deadheading, the practice of pinching old blooms off below the thickened base where seeds form, keeps new ones coming.
If the plants become overgrown, prune them back by one-third. Using clean, sharp stem cutters, make each pruning cut just above a set of leaves. Healthy new growth and flowers soon follow.
Potential Diseases
Petunias' occasional diseases include root rot from excessively wet soil. As long as their baskets have at least four drainage holes, root rot isn't likely.
Gray mold surfaces as fuzzy, grayish to brown blotches on the stems and leaves. The fungus loves humidity, so don't overcrowd baskets. Water the petunias at their bases so the leaves stay dry .
Late blight causes water-soaked, irregular spots on young leaves. Affected leaves eventually turn brown and die. Spraying weekly with ready-to-use chlorothalonil protects the plants when warm days, cool nights and wet weather favor the disease. Spray until the fungicide drips from their leaves.
Yellow mottling on petunia leaves indicates tobacco mosaic virus. Other symptoms include stunted or distorted growth and leaf lesions. No cure exists; dispose of infected plants and their potting mix and baskets in sealed plastic bags, and disinfect any gardening tools they may have contaminated in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts alcohol.
Potential Pests
Aphids drain sap from tender new stems and leaves, covering them in sticky waste called honeydew. Tiny black flea beetles typically arrive in midsummer to chew holes in the backs of the leaves.
Organic, ready-to-use pyrethrin insecticide kills both insects. Spray the plants until they drip, being sure to cover the backs of the leaves where the insects usually feed.
Feed for Flowers
The cascades of color that make petunia hanging baskets so appealing won't materialize without at least six hours of daily sun and regular doses of fertilizer. Producing all those trailing stems of flowers takes lots of energy.
To give them the best start, mix slow-release 5-10-5 granulated plant food into the soil before planting. One manufacturer recommends using 2 teaspoons for each 1 square foot of soil. After adding the petunias, fill the container with soil and water well.
Rain and maintenance watering both leach nutrients from hanging baskets. Yellowing leaves are a sign of nutrient deficiency. When they appear, begin fertilizing the petunias with liquid, 5-10-5 plant food every 10 days to two weeks for the remainder of the growing season. Mix a solution of 4 tablespoons, or the label's specified amount, of the plant food and 1 gallon of water.
Water Wisely
Hanging baskets dry out quickly. In hot, dry weather, petunias may need watering twice a day. Overwatering, however, may rot their roots. When you do water, stop only when water begins draining from the bottom of the baskets.
Groom for Growth
Many petunia varieties need regular grooming to look their best for an entire growing season. If their spent flowers are allowed to go to seed, they'll stop blooming. Deadheading, the practice of pinching old blooms off below the thickened base where seeds form, keeps new ones coming.
If the plants become overgrown, prune them back by one-third. Using clean, sharp stem cutters, make each pruning cut just above a set of leaves. Healthy new growth and flowers soon follow.
Potential Diseases
Petunias' occasional diseases include root rot from excessively wet soil. As long as their baskets have at least four drainage holes, root rot isn't likely.
Gray mold surfaces as fuzzy, grayish to brown blotches on the stems and leaves. The fungus loves humidity, so don't overcrowd baskets. Water the petunias at their bases so the leaves stay dry .
Late blight causes water-soaked, irregular spots on young leaves. Affected leaves eventually turn brown and die. Spraying weekly with ready-to-use chlorothalonil protects the plants when warm days, cool nights and wet weather favor the disease. Spray until the fungicide drips from their leaves.
Yellow mottling on petunia leaves indicates tobacco mosaic virus. Other symptoms include stunted or distorted growth and leaf lesions. No cure exists; dispose of infected plants and their potting mix and baskets in sealed plastic bags, and disinfect any gardening tools they may have contaminated in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts alcohol.
Potential Pests
Aphids drain sap from tender new stems and leaves, covering them in sticky waste called honeydew. Tiny black flea beetles typically arrive in midsummer to chew holes in the backs of the leaves.
Organic, ready-to-use pyrethrin insecticide kills both insects. Spray the plants until they drip, being sure to cover the backs of the leaves where the insects usually feed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Often referred to and grown as annuals, petunias (Petunia spp.) are technically warm climate perennials. They grow year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. These brightly colored flowers grow quickly and flower abundantly, making them ideal for adding color to window boxes, flowerbeds and planters. If you can't grow them year-round, grow petunias as annuals for dazzling spring, summer and early fall color.
The Difference
A true annual goes to seed after flowing and dies shortly after that in all climates. Petunias act like annuals in frosty areas, dying back with the first cold snap. As a mild climate perennial, however, petunias have the ability to grow year-round in the right climate. They like mild, frost-free winters, and summers that rarely rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity. Most areas don't provide these specific requirements, so petunias are most commonly grown as warm season annuals in frost-prone areas and as cool season annuals in tropical and subtropical areas.
Warm Season Annuals
Plant petunias outdoors in the spring after the last frost date when the soil warms up to 60 degrees F. Plant petunias from starts or seedlings. If you want to grow them from seed, start petunias indoors in a seed flat 10 to 12 weeks before your spring planting date. Plant starts in a spot that gets full sun at least six hours per day, with well draining soil. After the first frost, remove the spent petunia plants, and plan to replant starts in the spring.
Finicky Warm Climate Perennials
In frost-free regions where summers tend to get hot, plant petunias in the fall. You'll have flowers through the winter and spring months. Often, petunias will fade or burn out in the summer when temperatures go above 90 F. When petunias get faded and wilted during a hot summer, remove them and then replant in the fall when temperatures drop back down reliably below 90 F. Petunias only grow year-round as a true perennial in areas with mild winters and cool summers.
Overwintering Petunias
While petunias are plentiful and relatively inexpensive at the beginning of the growing season it is possible -- though they can be difficult to keep alive indoors -- to overwinter the plants. Dig out the root ball in the fall before frost, and transplant the petunias into nursery pots. Keep them indoors in bright light through the winter. Water when the soil dries out and mist the leaves with clean water every few days. Any room temperature area above 55 F but below 90 F will keep petunias happy through the winter. In the spring, replant petunias outdoors.
The Difference
A true annual goes to seed after flowing and dies shortly after that in all climates. Petunias act like annuals in frosty areas, dying back with the first cold snap. As a mild climate perennial, however, petunias have the ability to grow year-round in the right climate. They like mild, frost-free winters, and summers that rarely rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity. Most areas don't provide these specific requirements, so petunias are most commonly grown as warm season annuals in frost-prone areas and as cool season annuals in tropical and subtropical areas.
Warm Season Annuals
Plant petunias outdoors in the spring after the last frost date when the soil warms up to 60 degrees F. Plant petunias from starts or seedlings. If you want to grow them from seed, start petunias indoors in a seed flat 10 to 12 weeks before your spring planting date. Plant starts in a spot that gets full sun at least six hours per day, with well draining soil. After the first frost, remove the spent petunia plants, and plan to replant starts in the spring.
Finicky Warm Climate Perennials
In frost-free regions where summers tend to get hot, plant petunias in the fall. You'll have flowers through the winter and spring months. Often, petunias will fade or burn out in the summer when temperatures go above 90 F. When petunias get faded and wilted during a hot summer, remove them and then replant in the fall when temperatures drop back down reliably below 90 F. Petunias only grow year-round as a true perennial in areas with mild winters and cool summers.
Overwintering Petunias
While petunias are plentiful and relatively inexpensive at the beginning of the growing season it is possible -- though they can be difficult to keep alive indoors -- to overwinter the plants. Dig out the root ball in the fall before frost, and transplant the petunias into nursery pots. Keep them indoors in bright light through the winter. Water when the soil dries out and mist the leaves with clean water every few days. Any room temperature area above 55 F but below 90 F will keep petunias happy through the winter. In the spring, replant petunias outdoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Named for its edible leaves, Jamaican sorrel (Hibiscus sabdariffa var. sabdariffa) is also called red sorrel, roselle and Florida cranberry. This shrub is a short-lived perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 and an annual in colder zones. Growing 5 to 7 feet tall, Jamaican sorrel's narrow, lobed leaves and stems are reddish-green, and it flowers late fall through early winter. Its flower bases, called calyces, are used for making jellies, jams, juices and wines.
Needs and Tolerances
Jamaican sorrel requires a full-sun site but tolerates a variety of other growing conditions. Thriving in sandy soil rich in organic matter, Jamaican sorrel tolerates most soil types and a pH range between 4.5 and 8. This adaptable plant also tolerates strong winds, flooding and stagnant water, and grows at elevations up to 4,100 feet. Jamaican sorrel suffers damage from fog and frost but grows well in humid, warm conditions. In its native homelands it receives 59 to 79 inches of rainfall a year, and it requires constantly moist soil in cultivation.
Spacing and Mulching
Spacing for Jamaican sorrel depends on the reason for growing it, but all plants benefit from mulching. If growing Jamaican sorrel as an ornamental shrub or for its leaves, space plants 3 feet apart, but if you're cropping Jamaican sorrel for its calyces, grow three plants together on mounds 6 inches tall and 2 feet in diameter. Space mounds 3 to 6 feet apart in rows 5 to 10 feet apart. Mulching with manure helps protect Jamaican sorrel from root pests, suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and supplies plant nutrients. Spread a 2-inch layer of well-rotted manure around plants, avoiding the stems.
Weeds and Fertilizer
Weeding and fertilizing Jamaican sorrel promotes vigorous, healthy growth. Remove weeds from around plants weekly until they grow 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall, when their foliage shades out further weed growth. If growing the plant for its edible flower buds, fertilize Jamaican sorrel lightly, applying a 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks, or at half the rate recommended in the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilize Jamaican sorrel with 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, or at the recommended rates, if growing the plant as an ornamental or to harvest its foliage. Water Jamaican sorrel when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch.
Harvesting and Rotating
Harvest Jamaican sorrel leaves and calyces at different times, and rotate plants to different growing areas each year. Jamaican sorrel leaves are ready to pick 10 weeks from sowing. If growing shrubs for foliage and calyces, remove stems to 3 to 4 inches above the ground three times at intervals of four weeks, and then allow the plants to regrow and produce calyces for harvest. Calyces are ready to pick when they're plump and have stopped growing. Rotating Jamaican sorrel to different spots every year discourages root nematode infestations. Jamaican sorrel grows from seed and cuttings.
Needs and Tolerances
Jamaican sorrel requires a full-sun site but tolerates a variety of other growing conditions. Thriving in sandy soil rich in organic matter, Jamaican sorrel tolerates most soil types and a pH range between 4.5 and 8. This adaptable plant also tolerates strong winds, flooding and stagnant water, and grows at elevations up to 4,100 feet. Jamaican sorrel suffers damage from fog and frost but grows well in humid, warm conditions. In its native homelands it receives 59 to 79 inches of rainfall a year, and it requires constantly moist soil in cultivation.
Spacing and Mulching
Spacing for Jamaican sorrel depends on the reason for growing it, but all plants benefit from mulching. If growing Jamaican sorrel as an ornamental shrub or for its leaves, space plants 3 feet apart, but if you're cropping Jamaican sorrel for its calyces, grow three plants together on mounds 6 inches tall and 2 feet in diameter. Space mounds 3 to 6 feet apart in rows 5 to 10 feet apart. Mulching with manure helps protect Jamaican sorrel from root pests, suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and supplies plant nutrients. Spread a 2-inch layer of well-rotted manure around plants, avoiding the stems.
Weeds and Fertilizer
Weeding and fertilizing Jamaican sorrel promotes vigorous, healthy growth. Remove weeds from around plants weekly until they grow 1 1/2 to 2 feet tall, when their foliage shades out further weed growth. If growing the plant for its edible flower buds, fertilize Jamaican sorrel lightly, applying a 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1/2 tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks, or at half the rate recommended in the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilize Jamaican sorrel with 24-8-16 feed diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, or at the recommended rates, if growing the plant as an ornamental or to harvest its foliage. Water Jamaican sorrel when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch.
Harvesting and Rotating
Harvest Jamaican sorrel leaves and calyces at different times, and rotate plants to different growing areas each year. Jamaican sorrel leaves are ready to pick 10 weeks from sowing. If growing shrubs for foliage and calyces, remove stems to 3 to 4 inches above the ground three times at intervals of four weeks, and then allow the plants to regrow and produce calyces for harvest. Calyces are ready to pick when they're plump and have stopped growing. Rotating Jamaican sorrel to different spots every year discourages root nematode infestations. Jamaican sorrel grows from seed and cuttings.
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