文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Help! My Christmas cactus has bugs! Christmas cactus is a relatively low-maintenance, pest-resistant plant, but it can fall victim to a number of harmful pests. If you notice tiny bugs in Christmas cactus, take heart. Most pests of Christmas cactus are easily eliminated. Water and fertilize as necessary, and keep in mind that healthy plants are more resistant to Christmas cactus insects. Read on to learn more about bugs in Christmas cactus.
Treating Christmas Cactus Insects
Here are some common pests of Christmas cactus and how to deal with them:
Spider Mites – These Christmas cactus pests are so tiny, they are difficult to see with the naked eye. However, is you see fine webbing or fine speckles on the leaves, you can bet your Christmas cactus is infested with spider mites. Spider mites are usually easy to resolve with regular application of insecticidal soap spray. Keep the leaves clean, as mites are attracted by dusty conditions. Mealybugs – Mealybugs are an annoying pest, common on indoor plants. Although the tiny bugs on Christmas cactus are tiny, they are easy to spot by the protective cottony masses, which are usually seen at the joints of leaves and stems, or on the undersides of leaves. The bugs, which suck the sap from the leaves, grow larger as they mature.
If left untreated, they leave a sticky substance that attracts mold. To remove mealybugs, pick them off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. You can also use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, but be careful; too much rubbing alcohol may damage the leaves. If all else fails, you may want to try a systemic insecticide formulated for indoor plants. Scale – These Christmas cactus insects can suck the sweet juices and decimate a plant in a hurry.
Scale is recognized by the waxy outer covering, usually on the undersides of leaves and stems. In its early stages, you can simply scrape the waxy substance from the leaves. Insecticidal soap is also effective. In case of large infestations, systemic insecticides may be the best solution. Fungus gnats – Tiny, flying pests, fungus gnats are usually more annoying than harmful, although large infestations can cause loss of leaves and an overall unhealthy appearance. Try insecticidal soap spray first, as this may be enough to keep fungus gnats in check. You may need to repot the plant in a clean pot filled with fresh, well-drained potting mix, then be careful not to overwater, as gnats are attracted to soggy soil.
Treating Christmas Cactus Insects
Here are some common pests of Christmas cactus and how to deal with them:
Spider Mites – These Christmas cactus pests are so tiny, they are difficult to see with the naked eye. However, is you see fine webbing or fine speckles on the leaves, you can bet your Christmas cactus is infested with spider mites. Spider mites are usually easy to resolve with regular application of insecticidal soap spray. Keep the leaves clean, as mites are attracted by dusty conditions. Mealybugs – Mealybugs are an annoying pest, common on indoor plants. Although the tiny bugs on Christmas cactus are tiny, they are easy to spot by the protective cottony masses, which are usually seen at the joints of leaves and stems, or on the undersides of leaves. The bugs, which suck the sap from the leaves, grow larger as they mature.
If left untreated, they leave a sticky substance that attracts mold. To remove mealybugs, pick them off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. You can also use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, but be careful; too much rubbing alcohol may damage the leaves. If all else fails, you may want to try a systemic insecticide formulated for indoor plants. Scale – These Christmas cactus insects can suck the sweet juices and decimate a plant in a hurry.
Scale is recognized by the waxy outer covering, usually on the undersides of leaves and stems. In its early stages, you can simply scrape the waxy substance from the leaves. Insecticidal soap is also effective. In case of large infestations, systemic insecticides may be the best solution. Fungus gnats – Tiny, flying pests, fungus gnats are usually more annoying than harmful, although large infestations can cause loss of leaves and an overall unhealthy appearance. Try insecticidal soap spray first, as this may be enough to keep fungus gnats in check. You may need to repot the plant in a clean pot filled with fresh, well-drained potting mix, then be careful not to overwater, as gnats are attracted to soggy soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Flowering annuals bring bright colors to gardens and hanging baskets starting with the first blooms of spring through the summer and into autumn. However, many annual flowering plants need a little help to look their best and benefit from deadheading. Deadheading is the removal of spent blooms and foliage. Impatiens generally don't require deadheading as they are a self-cleaning plant that naturally sheds spent blooms, according to North Carolina State University Extension. However, even impatiens can benefit from deadheading if the plant has become stressed and has lost the majority of its blooms at the same time.
Step 1
Inspect the impatiens for blooms that are wilting or are turning brown, as well as for any dead leaves or stems, advises online resource Creative Homemaking.
Step 2
Grasp the plant 1/4 inch below the bloom with the thumb and forefinger and pinch the entire bloom off the plant. Discard the detached flower.
Step 3
Water and fertilize the impatiens with a water-soluble flower fertilizer. Keep soil moist. The impatiens should return to full bloom approximately one week after a severe deadheading.
Step 1
Inspect the impatiens for blooms that are wilting or are turning brown, as well as for any dead leaves or stems, advises online resource Creative Homemaking.
Step 2
Grasp the plant 1/4 inch below the bloom with the thumb and forefinger and pinch the entire bloom off the plant. Discard the detached flower.
Step 3
Water and fertilize the impatiens with a water-soluble flower fertilizer. Keep soil moist. The impatiens should return to full bloom approximately one week after a severe deadheading.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Increasing the humidity in your home can benefit your respiratory and skin health and can help prevent nosebleeds, especially in wintertime or in dry climates. Using natural humidifying plants is a great way to increase the humidity in your home while beautifying the indoor environment. Plants constantly pull water from the soil so that they can keep all their aboveground parts hydrated. Some of this water ends up in the plant’s cells, but most of it evaporates into the air from the leaves. We can use this to naturally humidify our homes.
Transpiration of Houseplants
When the air is relatively dry, a plant acts almost like a straw. Dry air creates a “pull” that brings water from the soil into the roots, through the stems, and up to the leaves. From the leaves, the water evaporates into the air through pores called stomata. This process is called transpiration. Growing plants use transpiration to maintain a constant movement of water through the plant. Transpiration delivers water and associated nutrients up to the leaves, and it helps the plant cool down too.
Plants That Add Humidity to Home
So, what plants humidify the air? Nearly all plants add some humidity, but some are much better humidifiers than others. In general, plants with large, broad leaves (like many rainforest plants) provide a greater humidifying effect than those with needle-shaped or small, rounded leaves (like cacti and succulents). Large leaves allow plants to absorb more light and carbon dioxide for photosynthesis, but they also allow more water loss to the atmosphere. Therefore, desert plants typically have small leaves with minimal surface area to conserve water. Plants in rainforests and other environments where water is abundant, but light can be scarce, are typically large.
We can take advantage of this pattern to humidify our houses using rainforest plants and other large-leaved plants. Houseplants that increase humidity include:
Dracaena
Philodendron
Peace lily
Areca palm
Bamboo palm
For more ideas, look for tropical plants with large leaves, such as:
Ginger
Asplundia
Monstera
Ficus benjamina
Increasing air circulation around your houseplants will also help them humidify the air more efficiently. Make sure your plants are watered well to maximize the humidity they provide, but be sure not to overwater them. Overwatering won’t increase transpiration rates, but it will make the plants susceptible to root rot and other problems and could kill the plant. Also, don’t add so many plants that you raise humidity levels past what is healthy for your furniture and appliances.
Transpiration of Houseplants
When the air is relatively dry, a plant acts almost like a straw. Dry air creates a “pull” that brings water from the soil into the roots, through the stems, and up to the leaves. From the leaves, the water evaporates into the air through pores called stomata. This process is called transpiration. Growing plants use transpiration to maintain a constant movement of water through the plant. Transpiration delivers water and associated nutrients up to the leaves, and it helps the plant cool down too.
Plants That Add Humidity to Home
So, what plants humidify the air? Nearly all plants add some humidity, but some are much better humidifiers than others. In general, plants with large, broad leaves (like many rainforest plants) provide a greater humidifying effect than those with needle-shaped or small, rounded leaves (like cacti and succulents). Large leaves allow plants to absorb more light and carbon dioxide for photosynthesis, but they also allow more water loss to the atmosphere. Therefore, desert plants typically have small leaves with minimal surface area to conserve water. Plants in rainforests and other environments where water is abundant, but light can be scarce, are typically large.
We can take advantage of this pattern to humidify our houses using rainforest plants and other large-leaved plants. Houseplants that increase humidity include:
Dracaena
Philodendron
Peace lily
Areca palm
Bamboo palm
For more ideas, look for tropical plants with large leaves, such as:
Ginger
Asplundia
Monstera
Ficus benjamina
Increasing air circulation around your houseplants will also help them humidify the air more efficiently. Make sure your plants are watered well to maximize the humidity they provide, but be sure not to overwater them. Overwatering won’t increase transpiration rates, but it will make the plants susceptible to root rot and other problems and could kill the plant. Also, don’t add so many plants that you raise humidity levels past what is healthy for your furniture and appliances.
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求助
succulentnewbie
2017年08月12日
Can anyone help me ID the first 4? Also if someone knows what's wrong with the last two, it would help me out a lot! Last one is a crassula sub species
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fearlessgrower：i agree, flapjack needs water
meriunkat：the first one is Graptosedum Francesco Baldi
Haleyfleeanne：Last two, looks like they need water.
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are part of a plant group with over 30,000 species. Most orchids can rebloom several times after the blossoms dry up and die off. Some species require different care after the blooms die, but good general orchid care will help ensure your flower has the opportunity to rebloom.
Cutting
Some orchids require you to cut them to encourage reblooming. Certain species should be cut with a sterile tool just above where the stem grows out of the leaf and bulb. Other orchid species have black lines on the lower part of the stem that you should cut above. Other species do not require any cutting. Check with a greenhouse or garden store if you need help identifying your orchid's species or need specific cutting instructions. If you are concerned that your stem will get infected, you can rub a bit of cinnamon or rubbing alcohol on the freshly cut portion to keep bacteria out.
Repotting
After your orchid blooms die, you may need to repot your plant. Orchids should stay in the same potting soil for only two or three years at the most. Many orchids' roots are extremely sensitive, so use caution when repotting to avoid disturbing the roots too much. Plastic and clay pots are both suitable for orchids, but clay dries out quicker. Orchids in clay pots will require more frequent watering. Make sure your pot has adequate drainage holes to get rid of excess water. Repot your orchid in a premade orchid soil mix or make your own from osmunda fiber, soil, peat moss and shredded bark.
Watering
Overwatering your orchid can lead to root rot and quicker decay of the soil and compost. Use water the same temperature as the atmosphere around the orchid. Do not leave the soil soggy. Some orchid species require consistently moist soil, while others should be allowed to dry out completely before watering them again. Yellow or crinkled leaves are signs of overwatering, but these can take months to appear. Black or dark brown mushy roots are rotted. Remove these sections and repot your orchid.
Light and Temperature
Orchids thrive in humid environments with daytime temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Nighttime temperatures 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the average daytime temperature will help stimulate new growth and blooms. Increase the humidity by placing your orchid pot on a tray with moist pebbles and mist your flowers with warm water each morning. Bright light will help your orchid rebloom after the blooms die. Allow your plant to get eight to ten hours of sunlight each day or use 40-watt florescent lights placed about 12 inches above the plant.
Fertilizing
Do not fertilize your orchids while they are dormant. During the blooming period, use a half-strength solution of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer every two weeks. If you grow your orchids in soil with a lot of tree bark, use a half-strength mixture of 30-10-10 every two weeks since tree bark does not contain the nutrients orchids need to thrive.
Cutting
Some orchids require you to cut them to encourage reblooming. Certain species should be cut with a sterile tool just above where the stem grows out of the leaf and bulb. Other orchid species have black lines on the lower part of the stem that you should cut above. Other species do not require any cutting. Check with a greenhouse or garden store if you need help identifying your orchid's species or need specific cutting instructions. If you are concerned that your stem will get infected, you can rub a bit of cinnamon or rubbing alcohol on the freshly cut portion to keep bacteria out.
Repotting
After your orchid blooms die, you may need to repot your plant. Orchids should stay in the same potting soil for only two or three years at the most. Many orchids' roots are extremely sensitive, so use caution when repotting to avoid disturbing the roots too much. Plastic and clay pots are both suitable for orchids, but clay dries out quicker. Orchids in clay pots will require more frequent watering. Make sure your pot has adequate drainage holes to get rid of excess water. Repot your orchid in a premade orchid soil mix or make your own from osmunda fiber, soil, peat moss and shredded bark.
Watering
Overwatering your orchid can lead to root rot and quicker decay of the soil and compost. Use water the same temperature as the atmosphere around the orchid. Do not leave the soil soggy. Some orchid species require consistently moist soil, while others should be allowed to dry out completely before watering them again. Yellow or crinkled leaves are signs of overwatering, but these can take months to appear. Black or dark brown mushy roots are rotted. Remove these sections and repot your orchid.
Light and Temperature
Orchids thrive in humid environments with daytime temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Nighttime temperatures 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the average daytime temperature will help stimulate new growth and blooms. Increase the humidity by placing your orchid pot on a tray with moist pebbles and mist your flowers with warm water each morning. Bright light will help your orchid rebloom after the blooms die. Allow your plant to get eight to ten hours of sunlight each day or use 40-watt florescent lights placed about 12 inches above the plant.
Fertilizing
Do not fertilize your orchids while they are dormant. During the blooming period, use a half-strength solution of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer every two weeks. If you grow your orchids in soil with a lot of tree bark, use a half-strength mixture of 30-10-10 every two weeks since tree bark does not contain the nutrients orchids need to thrive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dracaena are lovely tropical houseplants that can help set a calm and peaceful mood in your home. These plants are usually carefree, but a number of dracaena plant problems can weaken them so that they can’t carry out their normal life functions. This article explains what to do when you see black stems on a dracaena plant.
Why is Stem Turning Black on Corn Plant?
When a dracaena has black stems, it probably means that the plant has begun to rot. This happens because something has weakened the plant enough to allow harmful microorganisms to take over. Here are a few things that can weaken a dracaena: Most people forget to water their plants from time to time, but repeated improper watering over a long period of time can devastate a plant. You should let the soil become dry to touch and then water it enough that water drain out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Drain completely and then empty the saucer under the pot. Poor or old potting soil doesn’t manage water properly. Change out the potting soil annually and every time you repot the plant. While you’re at it, make sure the drainage holes in the pot aren’t blocked. Inefficient potting soil can become a soggy mess that rots the plant. Watch for insects and mites that weaken plants and allow diseases to infect them. Mites are particularly troublesome for dracaena. Dracaenas are sensitive to fluoride, so it’s best to use filtered water. The first symptoms of fluoride toxicity are dark streaks and brown tips on leaves.
What to Do About Stem Rot of Dracaena
As soon as you notice the stem turning black on corn plants or other dracaenas, plan to take cuttings. The parent plant will probably die, but your plant can live on through its offspring. You’ll need a glass of water and a sharp knife or pruning shears. Cut one or more six-inch piece of stem that has no black, smelly rot. Stand the stem in a glass of water with the lower two inches under water. Top off the water daily and change the water if it becomes cloudy. White nodules will form on the part of the stem that is below water, and roots will grow from these nodules. Buds will emerge from under the bark on the upper part of the stem.
Another way to solve your dracaena plant problem is to root side shoots. This method is a lifesaver if you can’t find enough healthy stem. Check the shoots carefully to make sure there are no signs of rot. Place them in a pot of moist rooting medium and cover the pot with a plastic bag to increase the humidity. Remove the bag after the shoots take root and begin to grow.
Why is Stem Turning Black on Corn Plant?
When a dracaena has black stems, it probably means that the plant has begun to rot. This happens because something has weakened the plant enough to allow harmful microorganisms to take over. Here are a few things that can weaken a dracaena: Most people forget to water their plants from time to time, but repeated improper watering over a long period of time can devastate a plant. You should let the soil become dry to touch and then water it enough that water drain out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Drain completely and then empty the saucer under the pot. Poor or old potting soil doesn’t manage water properly. Change out the potting soil annually and every time you repot the plant. While you’re at it, make sure the drainage holes in the pot aren’t blocked. Inefficient potting soil can become a soggy mess that rots the plant. Watch for insects and mites that weaken plants and allow diseases to infect them. Mites are particularly troublesome for dracaena. Dracaenas are sensitive to fluoride, so it’s best to use filtered water. The first symptoms of fluoride toxicity are dark streaks and brown tips on leaves.
What to Do About Stem Rot of Dracaena
As soon as you notice the stem turning black on corn plants or other dracaenas, plan to take cuttings. The parent plant will probably die, but your plant can live on through its offspring. You’ll need a glass of water and a sharp knife or pruning shears. Cut one or more six-inch piece of stem that has no black, smelly rot. Stand the stem in a glass of water with the lower two inches under water. Top off the water daily and change the water if it becomes cloudy. White nodules will form on the part of the stem that is below water, and roots will grow from these nodules. Buds will emerge from under the bark on the upper part of the stem.
Another way to solve your dracaena plant problem is to root side shoots. This method is a lifesaver if you can’t find enough healthy stem. Check the shoots carefully to make sure there are no signs of rot. Place them in a pot of moist rooting medium and cover the pot with a plastic bag to increase the humidity. Remove the bag after the shoots take root and begin to grow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Bostoniensis’) are old-fashioned ferns with beautiful arching fronds. They require adequate sunlight, water and nutrients to thrive, and good cultural practices help keep your fern healthy. If your fern doesn’t get the best care – or even if it does – it may be attacked by Boston fern diseases. Read on to learn more about diseases of Boston fern plants.
Common Boston Fern Problems
If you fail to water your potted fern appropriately, over or under irrigation can lead to unhealthy Boston ferns. Most fern instructions advise you to keep the soil constantly moist. But this is not the same as allowing the soil to be wet or the plant to become water-logged. To avoid issues with Boston ferns, water the plant thoroughly when the top of the soil is dry. Keep watering until it leaks from the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. Do not water again until the soil surface is dry. Failure to water sufficiently can lead to graying, one of the most common Boston fern problems. Graying is often the result of drought conditions. You’ll know if your plant has this condition when the leaves turn gray and the plant may seem to stop growing. Increasing irrigation should resolve this.
Although many gardeners consider tropical ferns low-life plants, Boston ferns need adequate light. If they do not get a medium amount of light – at least two hours of indirect light all year round – their fronds become long and pendulous. This is termed weak frond and is resolved by increasing light.
Boston Fern Diseases
If the fronds of your Boston fern turn gray and you’ve been watering properly, the next disease to consider is Pythium root rot. The fronds can also wilt or grow stunted. To confirm root rot, look at the roots of your unhealthy Boston ferns. If they are brown and stunted, it is likely root rot. The best way to prevent a Boston fern from getting root rot is to buy disease-free plants and pathogen free potting soil. You can also check in your garden store for chemicals that control this disease in Boston ferns.
These tips are also appropriate for preventing and treating other Boston fern diseases such as Rhizoctonia aerial blight. In blight, dark lesions develop rapidly on the foliage and roots. Unchecked, the entire plant is eventually covered with the pathogen’s brown web-like mycelium. If you opt to use chemicals to treat this disease, treat the soil as well.
Common Boston Fern Problems
If you fail to water your potted fern appropriately, over or under irrigation can lead to unhealthy Boston ferns. Most fern instructions advise you to keep the soil constantly moist. But this is not the same as allowing the soil to be wet or the plant to become water-logged. To avoid issues with Boston ferns, water the plant thoroughly when the top of the soil is dry. Keep watering until it leaks from the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. Do not water again until the soil surface is dry. Failure to water sufficiently can lead to graying, one of the most common Boston fern problems. Graying is often the result of drought conditions. You’ll know if your plant has this condition when the leaves turn gray and the plant may seem to stop growing. Increasing irrigation should resolve this.
Although many gardeners consider tropical ferns low-life plants, Boston ferns need adequate light. If they do not get a medium amount of light – at least two hours of indirect light all year round – their fronds become long and pendulous. This is termed weak frond and is resolved by increasing light.
Boston Fern Diseases
If the fronds of your Boston fern turn gray and you’ve been watering properly, the next disease to consider is Pythium root rot. The fronds can also wilt or grow stunted. To confirm root rot, look at the roots of your unhealthy Boston ferns. If they are brown and stunted, it is likely root rot. The best way to prevent a Boston fern from getting root rot is to buy disease-free plants and pathogen free potting soil. You can also check in your garden store for chemicals that control this disease in Boston ferns.
These tips are also appropriate for preventing and treating other Boston fern diseases such as Rhizoctonia aerial blight. In blight, dark lesions develop rapidly on the foliage and roots. Unchecked, the entire plant is eventually covered with the pathogen’s brown web-like mycelium. If you opt to use chemicals to treat this disease, treat the soil as well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas Cacti are notoriously difficult to root. This article might help you in rooting pieces for new plants or just rooting another in the same pot with the parent plant.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant
Step 1
Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root.
Step 2
Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from.
Step 3
Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4
The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it.
Step 5
When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant
Step 1
Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root.
Step 2
Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from.
Step 3
Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4
The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it.
Step 5
When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulents are often exotic-looking plants with thick, fleshy leaves and stems designed to store water and help the plants thrive in warm, dry areas. Succulents grow throughout the world and include such diverse plants as jade (Crassula argentea), which grows as a perennial outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, and greenii hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum subspecies greenii), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. Although certain succulents must be moved indoors during the winter months in some U.S. locations, many thrive outdoors in even very cold temperatures when they receive proper care.
Plant Winter-Hardy Varieties
Choose winter-hardy succulents for the easiest winter care. Those plants include greenii hens and chicks, hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi, USDA zones 5 through 11) and 'Golden Sword' yucca (Yucca filamentosa 'Golden Sword', USDA zones 4 through 9). Although these succulents may wither or change color during cold weather, that is normal, and you will not have to provide them with winter protection.
Keep the Soil Dry
In northern U.S. states, succulents need far less water during the winter months than they do in summer. Stop fertilizing and watering succulents in late fall to prevent hydrated plants from freezing during winter. During cold months, keep their soil as dry as possible, and ensure your succulents receive enough air circulation to prevent dampness. If the soil around your succulents appears wet, then add sand to the soil to keep the plants' roots dry. A mixture that is one-third loam, one-third sand and one-third peat moss is reliable.
Protect Them from Frost
If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the succulents with fabric, such as an old bed sheet, or with a frost cloth, which is available from plant nurseries. Completely cover the succulents with the material, and place cinder blocks or other heavy objects on the material's edges to keep it in place. Avoid using a plastic cover, which prevents air circulation and makes sunlight too intense for plants.
As soon as the danger of frost passes, remove the material to encourage air circulation and provide sunlight.
Relocate Them as Needed
If your succulents are in pots, then place them in the most ideal conditions possible for cold weather. For example, put the potted plants in a sunny location under a porch or eaves if winters in your area are rainy. If temperatures become cooler than normal, place the container succulents near boulders, shrubs or walls that face south or west; those structures and plants retain heat.
Another option is to move potted succulents indoors to help them thrive during frosty weeks or months. Place them in front of a bright, sunny window, and water their soil to prevent the plants from withering; water thoroughly, until water comes out the pots' bottom drain holes. Allow the soil to dry out completely before you water again.
Do not fertilize the succulents during the winter months.
Plant Winter-Hardy Varieties
Choose winter-hardy succulents for the easiest winter care. Those plants include greenii hens and chicks, hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi, USDA zones 5 through 11) and 'Golden Sword' yucca (Yucca filamentosa 'Golden Sword', USDA zones 4 through 9). Although these succulents may wither or change color during cold weather, that is normal, and you will not have to provide them with winter protection.
Keep the Soil Dry
In northern U.S. states, succulents need far less water during the winter months than they do in summer. Stop fertilizing and watering succulents in late fall to prevent hydrated plants from freezing during winter. During cold months, keep their soil as dry as possible, and ensure your succulents receive enough air circulation to prevent dampness. If the soil around your succulents appears wet, then add sand to the soil to keep the plants' roots dry. A mixture that is one-third loam, one-third sand and one-third peat moss is reliable.
Protect Them from Frost
If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the succulents with fabric, such as an old bed sheet, or with a frost cloth, which is available from plant nurseries. Completely cover the succulents with the material, and place cinder blocks or other heavy objects on the material's edges to keep it in place. Avoid using a plastic cover, which prevents air circulation and makes sunlight too intense for plants.
As soon as the danger of frost passes, remove the material to encourage air circulation and provide sunlight.
Relocate Them as Needed
If your succulents are in pots, then place them in the most ideal conditions possible for cold weather. For example, put the potted plants in a sunny location under a porch or eaves if winters in your area are rainy. If temperatures become cooler than normal, place the container succulents near boulders, shrubs or walls that face south or west; those structures and plants retain heat.
Another option is to move potted succulents indoors to help them thrive during frosty weeks or months. Place them in front of a bright, sunny window, and water their soil to prevent the plants from withering; water thoroughly, until water comes out the pots' bottom drain holes. Allow the soil to dry out completely before you water again.
Do not fertilize the succulents during the winter months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
A cactus that has been growing upright but is now leaning like the Tower of Pisa should be a concern for the gardener. The plant may be perfectly healthy, or it may be sick. Careful observations can help determine why the plant is leaning. If a problem is detected early, solutions are available that will save the cactus.
Sunlight
Even if your cactus is planted in full sun, it may lean. Plants naturally grow toward the sunlight. The barrel cactus grows southward toward the sun so much that it practically lies over on one side. If the cactus is otherwise healthy, this is not a danger. However, if a cactus planted in partial shade is leaning, it may need more sunlight. A cactus in this condition will look sickly and have weak, flimsy stems that are yellow-green. The plant should gradually be exposed to stronger sunlight to prevent sunburn.
Improper Planting
If the cactus is leaning from the ground, it may be loosely planted in the soil. Improper watering may be the reason. After watering a cactus, the soil must be allowed to completely dry out before watering again. Watering too frequently prevents the soil from hardening around the base of the cactus and causes the soil to loosen. Provided there is no root rot, either transplanting the cactus in dry soil or packing more dirt around it is a solution. Also, adding a layer of small rocks or gravel on the surface can stabilize the cactus.
Rot
Rot is caused from fungi and bacteria growing on the plant. The most common reason for rot is watering the cactus too often. The infected spot will have a watery, slimy, black appearance. Rot begins at the base of the cactus and works its way to the top. Rotting plants start to lean, then collapse and die. If rot is detected early, dig up the cactus and replant it in dry soil. Otherwise, remove the cactus from the soil, and cut the healthy top away from the diseased part. Allow the top to dry, and dust the cut surface with a fungicide before replanting it in sandy soil.
Insects
Insects eating the stem of the cactus can weaken the plant and cause it to lean. A plant infested with mealy bugs will stop growing and take on a sickly, deformed appearance. Mealy bugs should be removed with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Ants nesting at the base of the cactus eat away at the stem causing it to lean and eventually fall over. Wash away the ants with a strong, lukewarm stream of water. A cactus weakened by insects may develop fungi and rot and will die if not treated.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
how often Bonsai trees need to be watered depends on too many factors to give exact guidelines. Instead, you need to learn to observe your trees and know when they need to be watered. The following general guidelines will help you to get Bonsai watering right:
Water your trees when the soil gets slightly dry
This means you should not water your tree when the soil is still wet but only when it feels slightly dry; use your fingers to check the soil at around 0.4’’ (one centimeter) deep. Once you get more experienced you will be able to see (instead of feel) when a tree needs watering.
Never water on a routine
Keep observing your trees individually, instead of watering them on a daily routine, until you know exactly what you are doing.
Use the right soil-mixture
The soil-mixture greatly influences how often trees need to be watered, for most Bonsai trees a mixture of akadama, pumice and lava rock mixed together in a ratio of ½ to ¼ to ¼ should be fine. However, use a mixture that retains more water (by using more akadama, or even potting compost) when you cannot water your trees that regularly. Read the Bonsai soil mixtures article for more information.
When?
It doesn't really matter at what time you water a Bonsai. Some advice to avoid watering (with very cold water) during the afternoon, when the soil has been warmed up by the sun and will cool down rapidly when using cold water. Though this can be taken into consideration, it should always be clear that you should water your tree no matter what time it is, as soon as the soil gets slightly dry!
How to water Bonsai trees?
As explained previously, water when the soil gets slightly dry. When the tree does require water though, it needs thorough soaking so the entire root system is wetted. To do so, keep watering until water runs out of the drainage holes, and possibly repeat the process a few minutes later.
Water a tree from above using a watering can with a fine nozzle; this will prevent the soil from being washed away. Using collected rain water is better (as it doesn’t contain added chemicals), but when this is not readily available there is no problem in using normal tap water. There are also automated watering systems, but these are often quite costly.
Water your trees when the soil gets slightly dry
This means you should not water your tree when the soil is still wet but only when it feels slightly dry; use your fingers to check the soil at around 0.4’’ (one centimeter) deep. Once you get more experienced you will be able to see (instead of feel) when a tree needs watering.
Never water on a routine
Keep observing your trees individually, instead of watering them on a daily routine, until you know exactly what you are doing.
Use the right soil-mixture
The soil-mixture greatly influences how often trees need to be watered, for most Bonsai trees a mixture of akadama, pumice and lava rock mixed together in a ratio of ½ to ¼ to ¼ should be fine. However, use a mixture that retains more water (by using more akadama, or even potting compost) when you cannot water your trees that regularly. Read the Bonsai soil mixtures article for more information.
When?
It doesn't really matter at what time you water a Bonsai. Some advice to avoid watering (with very cold water) during the afternoon, when the soil has been warmed up by the sun and will cool down rapidly when using cold water. Though this can be taken into consideration, it should always be clear that you should water your tree no matter what time it is, as soon as the soil gets slightly dry!
How to water Bonsai trees?
As explained previously, water when the soil gets slightly dry. When the tree does require water though, it needs thorough soaking so the entire root system is wetted. To do so, keep watering until water runs out of the drainage holes, and possibly repeat the process a few minutes later.
Water a tree from above using a watering can with a fine nozzle; this will prevent the soil from being washed away. Using collected rain water is better (as it doesn’t contain added chemicals), but when this is not readily available there is no problem in using normal tap water. There are also automated watering systems, but these are often quite costly.
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求助
Potatoizaplant
2017年07月29日
I NEED HELP WITH MY KALANCHOE PLANT PLEASE! I bought this little guy a few months ago and it bloomed for my a few days after i bought it. It was fine until l 3 weeks later when i noticed the leaves shriveling up. It continued to lose it leaves and I pruned the flowers so it can focus all its energy on regaining its health. During the past few months I've repoted the plant, checking for root rot or any pest and i found nothing. Ive changed waterings, light, anything you can think off and it continues to loose it leaves. If you guys can help me save this plant, please comment any suggestions!
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meriunkat：well all I know is that I water mine when the soil is dry which could be about every three days..and gradually exposed to sunlight
lizhufun：当金银花蕾生虫蛋如何处治
求助
veraa
2017年07月28日
need help identifying
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meriunkat：Graptopetalum Paraguayense maybe? "ghost plant"
