☆MintyHorizons☆
2017年09月30日
Found this little guy.... Any advice on how to take care of the miniature cactus??? (๑˃̵ᴗ˂̵)
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☆MintyHorizons☆：@cclecombe thanks, I'll make sure to do that!
cclecombe：Not sure on the ID, but he'll probably enjoy good light and want watering one a month, even less in winter
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月29日
Scientific Name
Ferocactus glaucescens (DC.) Britton & Rose
Common Names
Blue Barrel Cactus, Glaucous Barrel Cactus
Synonyms
Bisnaga glaucescens, Echinocactus glaucescens, Echinocactus pfeifferi, Ferocactus pfeifferi
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Ferocactus
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Late spring and summer
Description
Ferocactus glaucescens is a generally solitary, barrel cactus with bluish green stems up to 22 inches (55 cm) tall and 20 inches (50 cm) in diameter, 11 to 15 ribs, 0 or 1 central spine, and straight, light yellow 6 or 7 radial spines, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long. The flowers are lemon yellow, funnel-shaped and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) in diameter. The plants start flowering when about 5 inches (12.5 cm) in diameter. The fruits are white, 0.8 inch (2 cm) long with the remnants of the flowers attached.
How to Grow and Care
Choose a planting location that receives direct sun during all or most of the day. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Plant your Barrel Cactus in early spring before new roots begin to form in late June and early July. The roots may appear dry, but that is typical before new growth begins. Dig a hole deep enough for the plant’s roots and amend it as needed to provide fast-draining soil.
A good soil mixture includes 10 percent native soil, 45 percent washed sand or pumice and 45 percent compost. Ferocactus thrives in poor and arid soil. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Water again only if the weather in your area is unseasonably dry and if normal spring or winter rainfall doesn’t occur.
Origin
Native to eastern Central Mexico.
Ferocactus glaucescens (DC.) Britton & Rose
Common Names
Blue Barrel Cactus, Glaucous Barrel Cactus
Synonyms
Bisnaga glaucescens, Echinocactus glaucescens, Echinocactus pfeifferi, Ferocactus pfeifferi
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Ferocactus
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Late spring and summer
Description
Ferocactus glaucescens is a generally solitary, barrel cactus with bluish green stems up to 22 inches (55 cm) tall and 20 inches (50 cm) in diameter, 11 to 15 ribs, 0 or 1 central spine, and straight, light yellow 6 or 7 radial spines, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long. The flowers are lemon yellow, funnel-shaped and up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) in diameter. The plants start flowering when about 5 inches (12.5 cm) in diameter. The fruits are white, 0.8 inch (2 cm) long with the remnants of the flowers attached.
How to Grow and Care
Choose a planting location that receives direct sun during all or most of the day. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Plant your Barrel Cactus in early spring before new roots begin to form in late June and early July. The roots may appear dry, but that is typical before new growth begins. Dig a hole deep enough for the plant’s roots and amend it as needed to provide fast-draining soil.
A good soil mixture includes 10 percent native soil, 45 percent washed sand or pumice and 45 percent compost. Ferocactus thrives in poor and arid soil. Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Water again only if the weather in your area is unseasonably dry and if normal spring or winter rainfall doesn’t occur.
Origin
Native to eastern Central Mexico.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Blue Puya, or Turquoise Puya, is a bromeliad and closely related to the pineapple. The plant is a rare specimen that hails from Chile in the Andes Mountains. It is part of several cactus and succulent plant collections but is not found wild in North America. Seeds are available to order or you may be able to get a hold of a division if you are lucky. These are the two main ways of propagating Puya plants and enjoying for yourself the majestic flower spires and classic rosettes of this succulent.
Read on to learn how to grow Blue Puya and astound your friends and make fellow gardeners envious with the daring and bold form.
Puya berteroniana is an arid climate terrestrial bromeliad. The plant is sold under the name Aqua Sapphire Tower which is an appropriate description for the infrequent colossal flower clusters it produces when mature. The Blue Puya plant is found in the upper elevations of arid Chile. It is a hardy plant that grows 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in height from a basal rosette form of silvery gray leaves with toothed edges. The flower stalks may be up to 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in height and are decorated with magnificent turquoise flowers with deeply orange anthers. The effect is quite impressive and unique in the plant world but it may take 6 to 8 years for flowers to appear. Over time the plant will form offsets or pups. These are easily divided up as an easy way of propagating Puya plants.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You can get Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance. The pups can be cut away with a sharp, sterile knife and potted up for a new supply of the plants. Blue Puya care is easy as long as you have well-drained soil, a fairly sunny location and warm temperatures. The plants are even drought tolerant for short periods once established.
Read on to learn how to grow Blue Puya and astound your friends and make fellow gardeners envious with the daring and bold form.
Puya berteroniana is an arid climate terrestrial bromeliad. The plant is sold under the name Aqua Sapphire Tower which is an appropriate description for the infrequent colossal flower clusters it produces when mature. The Blue Puya plant is found in the upper elevations of arid Chile. It is a hardy plant that grows 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in height from a basal rosette form of silvery gray leaves with toothed edges. The flower stalks may be up to 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in height and are decorated with magnificent turquoise flowers with deeply orange anthers. The effect is quite impressive and unique in the plant world but it may take 6 to 8 years for flowers to appear. Over time the plant will form offsets or pups. These are easily divided up as an easy way of propagating Puya plants.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You can get Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday.
Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance. The pups can be cut away with a sharp, sterile knife and potted up for a new supply of the plants. Blue Puya care is easy as long as you have well-drained soil, a fairly sunny location and warm temperatures. The plants are even drought tolerant for short periods once established.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Echinopsis chamaecereus H. Friedrich & Glaetzle
Common Names
Peanut Cactus
Synonyms
Chamaecereus sylvestrii, Chamaecereus silvestrii, Lobivia silvestri, Cereus silvestrii
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Trichocereeae
Genus: Echinopsis
Flower
Color: Orange-red
Bloom Time: Spring
Description
Echinopsis chamaecereus is a branched cactus, up to 6 inches (10 cm) tall, with many crowded finger-like stems. The pale green stems are up to 6 inches (15 cm) long and up to 0.5 inches (1.2 cm) in diameter. Blooms in late spring and produces several flushes of about 2 inches (5 cm) wide orange-red flowers.
How to Grow and Care
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the Echinopsis species without too much trouble. Like many cacti, they prefer a drying period between waterings, even to the point where they slightly wilt. When you water, however, you should water deeply. The plant will noticeably plump up. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
Echinopsis can be easily rooted from offsets, which tend to cluster around the base of the mother plant. Cut offsets close to the stem, at the narrowest possible place. When rooting cacti from cuttings, let the fresh cutting dry out slightly on a paper towel and cut the cacti at the narrowest place possible. After a few days to a few weeks, depending on the size of the cut surface, the cut surface should have dried out and formed a callous, or slightly rough opening. Once the callous has formed, place the cutting in a rooting mixture of fast-draining cacti soil.
Origin
Native to Argentina (Tucumán).
Echinopsis chamaecereus H. Friedrich & Glaetzle
Common Names
Peanut Cactus
Synonyms
Chamaecereus sylvestrii, Chamaecereus silvestrii, Lobivia silvestri, Cereus silvestrii
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Trichocereeae
Genus: Echinopsis
Flower
Color: Orange-red
Bloom Time: Spring
Description
Echinopsis chamaecereus is a branched cactus, up to 6 inches (10 cm) tall, with many crowded finger-like stems. The pale green stems are up to 6 inches (15 cm) long and up to 0.5 inches (1.2 cm) in diameter. Blooms in late spring and produces several flushes of about 2 inches (5 cm) wide orange-red flowers.
How to Grow and Care
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the Echinopsis species without too much trouble. Like many cacti, they prefer a drying period between waterings, even to the point where they slightly wilt. When you water, however, you should water deeply. The plant will noticeably plump up. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
Echinopsis can be easily rooted from offsets, which tend to cluster around the base of the mother plant. Cut offsets close to the stem, at the narrowest possible place. When rooting cacti from cuttings, let the fresh cutting dry out slightly on a paper towel and cut the cacti at the narrowest place possible. After a few days to a few weeks, depending on the size of the cut surface, the cut surface should have dried out and formed a callous, or slightly rough opening. Once the callous has formed, place the cutting in a rooting mixture of fast-draining cacti soil.
Origin
Native to Argentina (Tucumán).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Echinocactus grusonii Hildm.
Common Names
Golden Barrel Cactus, Golden Barrel, Golden Ball Cactus, Golden Ball, Mother-in-Law’s-Cushion, Mother-in-Law’s-Seat
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Echinocactus
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Echinocactus grusonii is a cactus with single slowly growing globe-shaped stem that became elongated (barrel-shaped) in maturity, up to 3 feet (90 cm) in height and spread. Cultivated usually only grow to around 12 inches (30 cm). Stem is pale green and heavily ribbed with numerous areoles sprouting radial, yellow spines. Small yellow flowers, up to 2 inches (5 cm) wide, appear in summer around the crown of the plant, but only after twenty years or so.
How to Grow and Care
Overall, these are very attractive cacti for dish gardens or indoor display. A collection of them is especially attractive, as they look like a collection of balls tossed upon the ground. It’s critical, however, to never let these cactus be exposed to prolonged periods in water, or even very high humidity. They will suffer from rot in the presence of humidity. Echinocactus are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
Barrel Cactus are typically propagated by seed. Mature cactus will bloom in the summer with flowers that grow in whorls around the top of the plant. To seed a cactus, plant the seeds shallowly in a cactus mix and keep them warm and very slightly moist. It’s best to repot in the beginning of the growing season, or summer… – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Echinocactus.
You can sow Golden Barrel Cactus seeds outdoors in warm climates, but sowing them indoors is easier and will result in a higher germination rate. Expect the seeds to germinate in one to two months.
Origin
Native to Mexico (Querétaro).
Echinocactus grusonii Hildm.
Common Names
Golden Barrel Cactus, Golden Barrel, Golden Ball Cactus, Golden Ball, Mother-in-Law’s-Cushion, Mother-in-Law’s-Seat
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Cacteae
Genus: Echinocactus
Flower
Color: Yellow
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Echinocactus grusonii is a cactus with single slowly growing globe-shaped stem that became elongated (barrel-shaped) in maturity, up to 3 feet (90 cm) in height and spread. Cultivated usually only grow to around 12 inches (30 cm). Stem is pale green and heavily ribbed with numerous areoles sprouting radial, yellow spines. Small yellow flowers, up to 2 inches (5 cm) wide, appear in summer around the crown of the plant, but only after twenty years or so.
How to Grow and Care
Overall, these are very attractive cacti for dish gardens or indoor display. A collection of them is especially attractive, as they look like a collection of balls tossed upon the ground. It’s critical, however, to never let these cactus be exposed to prolonged periods in water, or even very high humidity. They will suffer from rot in the presence of humidity. Echinocactus are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
Barrel Cactus are typically propagated by seed. Mature cactus will bloom in the summer with flowers that grow in whorls around the top of the plant. To seed a cactus, plant the seeds shallowly in a cactus mix and keep them warm and very slightly moist. It’s best to repot in the beginning of the growing season, or summer… – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Echinocactus.
You can sow Golden Barrel Cactus seeds outdoors in warm climates, but sowing them indoors is easier and will result in a higher germination rate. Expect the seeds to germinate in one to two months.
Origin
Native to Mexico (Querétaro).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Disocactus phyllanthoides (DC.) Barthlott
Common Names
German Empress, Giant Empress, Pond Lily Cactus
Synonyms
Cactus phyllanthoides (basionym), Cereus phyllanthoides, Epiphyllum phyllanthoides, Nopalxochia phyllanthoides, Phyllocactus phyllanthoides
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Hylocereeae
Genus: Disocactus
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Mid spring
Description
Disocactus phyllanthoides is an easy to grow jungle cactus with green or reddish stems, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) long or more, branching, primary stems up to 16 inches (40 cm) long, 0.2 inch (6 mm) thick, woody at base, flattened at apex. The secondary stems are flat, lanceolate, acute with coarsely scalloped margins, toothed, up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and up to 2 inches (5 cm) wide. The flowers are funnel-shaped, pink in color, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long and up to 3.5 inches (9 cm) wide. The fruits are ellipsoid, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long with low ribs, green at first, later red.
How to Grow and Care
Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates such as mine. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Origin
Native to Mexico (Hidalgo, Oaxaca).
Disocactus phyllanthoides (DC.) Barthlott
Common Names
German Empress, Giant Empress, Pond Lily Cactus
Synonyms
Cactus phyllanthoides (basionym), Cereus phyllanthoides, Epiphyllum phyllanthoides, Nopalxochia phyllanthoides, Phyllocactus phyllanthoides
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Hylocereeae
Genus: Disocactus
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Mid spring
Description
Disocactus phyllanthoides is an easy to grow jungle cactus with green or reddish stems, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) long or more, branching, primary stems up to 16 inches (40 cm) long, 0.2 inch (6 mm) thick, woody at base, flattened at apex. The secondary stems are flat, lanceolate, acute with coarsely scalloped margins, toothed, up to 12 inches (30 cm) long and up to 2 inches (5 cm) wide. The flowers are funnel-shaped, pink in color, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long and up to 3.5 inches (9 cm) wide. The fruits are ellipsoid, up to 1.6 inches (4 cm) long with low ribs, green at first, later red.
How to Grow and Care
Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates such as mine. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Origin
Native to Mexico (Hidalgo, Oaxaca).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Disocactus flagelliformis (L.) Barthlott
Common Names
Rat Tail Cactus, Rat-Tail Cactus, Rattail Cactus, Flor de Látigo (Spanish), Floricuerno (Spanish), Junco (Spanish), Junquillo (Spanish), Nopalillo (Spanish), Ormkaktus (Swedish)
Synonyms
Cereus flagriformis, Aporocactus flagelliformis var. leptophis, Aporocactus leptophis, Aporocactus flagriformis, Aporocactus flagelliformis, Cereus flagelliformis, Cactus flagelliformis, Cereus leptophis
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Hylocereeae
Genus: Disocactus
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Spring and summer
Description
Disocactus flagelliformis is a cactus with a thick hanging stems, each with 8 – 13 ribs, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) long and up to 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) in diameter. The needle groups are tiny, almost fuzzy-looking and have 15 – 20 fine reddish-yellow spines each. Flowers are beautiful, curved, bright pink in color, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and up to 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter, produced along the stems in spring and summer. The fruit is red, globose, bristly and up to 0.5 inch (12 mm) long.
How to Grow and Care
Disocactus flagelliformis is easy to cultivate and relatively fast growing cactus. Their trailing stems make these cacti ideal plants for a hanging basket. Line the basket with sphagnum moss before filling it with potting mixture and make sure it is hung where the prickly stems will not pose a treat to the unwary. If Disocactus flagelliformis is grown in a pot, hang the pot up or attache it to a high shelf. If it is left free-standing, it can soon be overbalanced by the lengthening stems.
To propagate, use either 6 inches (15 cm) tip or 6 inches (15 cm) segment of any part of the stem. Allow each cutting or segment to dry for three days; then insert it about 0.8 inch (2 cm) deep in a small pan or pot of the recommended potting mixture for mature plants; be sure that any stem segment is planted with the bottom end down. – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Disocactus flagelliformis
Origin
Native to Mexico (Hidalgo, Oaxaca).
Disocactus flagelliformis (L.) Barthlott
Common Names
Rat Tail Cactus, Rat-Tail Cactus, Rattail Cactus, Flor de Látigo (Spanish), Floricuerno (Spanish), Junco (Spanish), Junquillo (Spanish), Nopalillo (Spanish), Ormkaktus (Swedish)
Synonyms
Cereus flagriformis, Aporocactus flagelliformis var. leptophis, Aporocactus leptophis, Aporocactus flagriformis, Aporocactus flagelliformis, Cereus flagelliformis, Cactus flagelliformis, Cereus leptophis
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Hylocereeae
Genus: Disocactus
Flower
Color: Pink
Bloom Time: Spring and summer
Description
Disocactus flagelliformis is a cactus with a thick hanging stems, each with 8 – 13 ribs, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) long and up to 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) in diameter. The needle groups are tiny, almost fuzzy-looking and have 15 – 20 fine reddish-yellow spines each. Flowers are beautiful, curved, bright pink in color, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and up to 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter, produced along the stems in spring and summer. The fruit is red, globose, bristly and up to 0.5 inch (12 mm) long.
How to Grow and Care
Disocactus flagelliformis is easy to cultivate and relatively fast growing cactus. Their trailing stems make these cacti ideal plants for a hanging basket. Line the basket with sphagnum moss before filling it with potting mixture and make sure it is hung where the prickly stems will not pose a treat to the unwary. If Disocactus flagelliformis is grown in a pot, hang the pot up or attache it to a high shelf. If it is left free-standing, it can soon be overbalanced by the lengthening stems.
To propagate, use either 6 inches (15 cm) tip or 6 inches (15 cm) segment of any part of the stem. Allow each cutting or segment to dry for three days; then insert it about 0.8 inch (2 cm) deep in a small pan or pot of the recommended potting mixture for mature plants; be sure that any stem segment is planted with the bottom end down. – See more at: How to Grow and Care for Disocactus flagelliformis
Origin
Native to Mexico (Hidalgo, Oaxaca).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Carnegiea gigantea (Engelm.) Britton & Rose
Common Names
Saguaro, Saguaro Cactus, Sahuaro, Giant Cactus, Sage of the Desert
Synonyms
Cereus giganteus (basionym), Pilocereus engelmannii, Pilocereus giganteus
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Echinocereeae
Genus: Carnegiea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: April to June
Description
Carnegiea gigantea is a tall, tree-like, columnar in form cactus, up to 65 feet (20 m) tall. The ribbed stem can reach up to 2.5 feet (75 cm) in diameter. It is the largest columnar cactus native to the United States but is extremely slowly-growing, reaching only 0.24 inch (0.6 cm) tall after two years. It flowers once it has reached about 30–35 years of age and a height of about 6.6 feet (2 m). The first branches appear after it has reached a height of about 16.5 feet (5 m) and an age of 50 – 70 years. The white flowers appear just below the top of the stem and they are up to 5 inches (12.5 cm) long and up to 2.4 inches (6 cm) in diameter. The edible, red, fleshy fruits are up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. The Saguaro blossom is the State Wildflower of Arizona.
How to Grow and Care
Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Origin
Native to the Sonoran Desert in the United States state of Arizona, the Mexican state of Sonora, and the Whipple Mountains and Imperial County areas of California.
Carnegiea gigantea (Engelm.) Britton & Rose
Common Names
Saguaro, Saguaro Cactus, Sahuaro, Giant Cactus, Sage of the Desert
Synonyms
Cereus giganteus (basionym), Pilocereus engelmannii, Pilocereus giganteus
Scientific Classification
Family: Cactaceae
Subfamily: Cactoideae
Tribe: Echinocereeae
Genus: Carnegiea
Flower
Color: White
Bloom Time: April to June
Description
Carnegiea gigantea is a tall, tree-like, columnar in form cactus, up to 65 feet (20 m) tall. The ribbed stem can reach up to 2.5 feet (75 cm) in diameter. It is the largest columnar cactus native to the United States but is extremely slowly-growing, reaching only 0.24 inch (0.6 cm) tall after two years. It flowers once it has reached about 30–35 years of age and a height of about 6.6 feet (2 m). The first branches appear after it has reached a height of about 16.5 feet (5 m) and an age of 50 – 70 years. The white flowers appear just below the top of the stem and they are up to 5 inches (12.5 cm) long and up to 2.4 inches (6 cm) in diameter. The edible, red, fleshy fruits are up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. The Saguaro blossom is the State Wildflower of Arizona.
How to Grow and Care
Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Origin
Native to the Sonoran Desert in the United States state of Arizona, the Mexican state of Sonora, and the Whipple Mountains and Imperial County areas of California.
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求助
greentigercat
2017年09月23日
my mother calls this a petting cactus but when I look up one this isn't it. pretty sure not mistletoe either. it's "hairy"..ypu can pet it but it does have thorns if you touch just right. have looked and looked...bothing like it I can find.
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Ueca：Disocactus speciosus, I think. The image is quite blurry. Try searching up "Rat Tail Cactus" or "Medusa Cactus".
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
When people see these unusually colored cacti, quite often they are mistaken as flowers. But in actual fact they are two different species of cacti grafted together.
The brightly colored cactus that sits on top is actually a mutant variation of a standard cactus. In the wild, if a mutant pup is created, eventually it would detach from the parent plant and sadly die as it cannot photosynthesize. The reason it can’t photosynthesize is because it has no chlorophyll (green pigments), which is essential in the photosynthesis process. So in order for a mutant pup to survive, we have to find some other means to give it nutrients. This is where the grafting comes in.
Rootstock plants, which are able to photosynthesize normally, are what the mutant pups are grafted on to. They can provide enough nutrients for both itself and its grafted partner, allowing both to survive. Common rootstocks used in grafting cacti include species of Hylocereus (what we use here at Fickle Prickles), Myrtillocactus geometrizans, Trichocereus pasacana, Harrisia jusbertii, Cereus peruvianus and many more.
Most of the colorful mutants you will see around are derived from the species Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Lobivia silvestrii variegate. However, the possibilities of grafting are endless, and not just limited to mutants.
How to Care for Grafted Cacti
Light: Place these guys indoors or sheltered under verandas or patios as the rootstock is sensitive to the cold and frosts. They do need partial sun, so next to a window is the perfect location if they are indoors.
Water: Very little maintenance is required for these guys to thrive; in fact one of the main reasons grafted cacti suffer is through over watering. Water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry (this can take anywhere from a week to a month depending on location, time of year and environmental factors). The best thing to do is water them thoroughly and then let it drain. If you are using saucers, make sure to empty them out after each watering.
The brightly colored cactus that sits on top is actually a mutant variation of a standard cactus. In the wild, if a mutant pup is created, eventually it would detach from the parent plant and sadly die as it cannot photosynthesize. The reason it can’t photosynthesize is because it has no chlorophyll (green pigments), which is essential in the photosynthesis process. So in order for a mutant pup to survive, we have to find some other means to give it nutrients. This is where the grafting comes in.
Rootstock plants, which are able to photosynthesize normally, are what the mutant pups are grafted on to. They can provide enough nutrients for both itself and its grafted partner, allowing both to survive. Common rootstocks used in grafting cacti include species of Hylocereus (what we use here at Fickle Prickles), Myrtillocactus geometrizans, Trichocereus pasacana, Harrisia jusbertii, Cereus peruvianus and many more.
Most of the colorful mutants you will see around are derived from the species Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Lobivia silvestrii variegate. However, the possibilities of grafting are endless, and not just limited to mutants.
How to Care for Grafted Cacti
Light: Place these guys indoors or sheltered under verandas or patios as the rootstock is sensitive to the cold and frosts. They do need partial sun, so next to a window is the perfect location if they are indoors.
Water: Very little maintenance is required for these guys to thrive; in fact one of the main reasons grafted cacti suffer is through over watering. Water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry (this can take anywhere from a week to a month depending on location, time of year and environmental factors). The best thing to do is water them thoroughly and then let it drain. If you are using saucers, make sure to empty them out after each watering.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cacti are low maintenance plants that generally thrive with neglect and do not require a lot of pampering. It might surprise you to find that cacti can and do need to be pruned now and then. Cactus pruning is not always necessary and when to prune a cactus plant will depend upon why you are trimming it. A few notes on how to cut back a cactus for purposes of propagation, rejuvenation and structural integrity will send you on the road to cleaning up your succulents properly.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like Totem Pole Cacti or Organ Pipe Cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other cacti will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant.
Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens.
The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease.
Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them.
For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves.
Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species.
Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus.
Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately.
Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month.
Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like Totem Pole Cacti or Organ Pipe Cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other cacti will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant.
Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens.
The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease.
Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them.
For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves.
Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species.
Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus.
Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately.
Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month.
Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A Golden Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) doesn’t really need to bloom to have a commanding presence in the garden. The symmetrically rounded stem is armored down the ridges with clusters of golden yellow spines. A wooly white patch tops older cacti. This is the central growing point and bears the small yellow flowers. Growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, these long-lived, slow-growing cacti can reach 3 feet across and 4 feet high. They are suitable for container plants anywhere.
Flowers
The life cycle of the Golden Barrel starts with the flower, which needs to be pollinated to produce seeds. Yellow funnel-shaped flowers grow in a ring in the central felted portion. Plants have to be at least 14 inches across before they are old enough to flower. Sometimes the flowers are self-fertile, but you get more seeds when flowers cross-pollinate with those on another Golden Barrel. Bees are the usual pollinators. Once flowers are pollinated, they close and seeds begin to form in the ovary beneath the faded flower.
Fruits
The fruits are embedded within the dense plant hairs on top of the plant, and they remain in place year after year unless you pull them out. Sometimes ground squirrels harvest them to eat the seeds. The dried flower stays on top of the fruit. The fresh fruit has a yellowish fleshy wall that dries to brown. The oval black seeds inside the fruit remain viable for a long time. To collect the seeds, gently remove the fruit by grasping the dried flower and slightly twisting it as you pull. It’s best to take fruits to a work table to break them open and remove the seeds.
Seeds
Seeds germinate during warm, moist conditions and need light to sprout. To plant the seeds, use a clean shallow pot with drainage holes and a soil-less growing mix like half peat and half perlite. After filling the pot within an inch of the top with the potting mix, scatter some chicken grit on top, and then evenly distribute the seeds so they lodge among the grit. Water the pot from the bottom by temporarily putting it in a tray of water so the mix is thoroughly wet. Cover the pot with plastic and place it in bright indirect light, keeping the soil moist but not soggy.
Seedlings
Pudgy little seedlings emerge from the seeds after four to six weeks. They look like miniature greenish-pink pencil erasers with a pair of pointed corners, which are the cotyledons or seed leaves. As the seedlings grow, a puff of little spines develops on a bump between the cotyledons. Gradually remove the plastic after the seeds have germinated. Allow them to grow until they are big enough to touch each other and have a little crown of spines, when you can transfer them in small clumps of four to six plants to individual 2-inch pots. Being in clumps helps to keep them from being overwatered.
Young Plants
As the seedlings grow, they begin to look more like a cactus. Plants have little bumps with a cluster of small spines atop each bump, more properly called tubercles, that eventually join together to form the ridges on the cactus. When your seedlings fill the pot, unpot them, separate them and give each one its own 2-inch pot. Each time they grow to touch the sides of the pot, transplant them to just the next pot size and gradually give them partial sunlight. When cacti are 6 inches wide, they can be gradually accustomed to garden conditions and planted outdoors. After about 15 years, the plant becomes large enough to flower, and the cycle repeats itself.
Flowers
The life cycle of the Golden Barrel starts with the flower, which needs to be pollinated to produce seeds. Yellow funnel-shaped flowers grow in a ring in the central felted portion. Plants have to be at least 14 inches across before they are old enough to flower. Sometimes the flowers are self-fertile, but you get more seeds when flowers cross-pollinate with those on another Golden Barrel. Bees are the usual pollinators. Once flowers are pollinated, they close and seeds begin to form in the ovary beneath the faded flower.
Fruits
The fruits are embedded within the dense plant hairs on top of the plant, and they remain in place year after year unless you pull them out. Sometimes ground squirrels harvest them to eat the seeds. The dried flower stays on top of the fruit. The fresh fruit has a yellowish fleshy wall that dries to brown. The oval black seeds inside the fruit remain viable for a long time. To collect the seeds, gently remove the fruit by grasping the dried flower and slightly twisting it as you pull. It’s best to take fruits to a work table to break them open and remove the seeds.
Seeds
Seeds germinate during warm, moist conditions and need light to sprout. To plant the seeds, use a clean shallow pot with drainage holes and a soil-less growing mix like half peat and half perlite. After filling the pot within an inch of the top with the potting mix, scatter some chicken grit on top, and then evenly distribute the seeds so they lodge among the grit. Water the pot from the bottom by temporarily putting it in a tray of water so the mix is thoroughly wet. Cover the pot with plastic and place it in bright indirect light, keeping the soil moist but not soggy.
Seedlings
Pudgy little seedlings emerge from the seeds after four to six weeks. They look like miniature greenish-pink pencil erasers with a pair of pointed corners, which are the cotyledons or seed leaves. As the seedlings grow, a puff of little spines develops on a bump between the cotyledons. Gradually remove the plastic after the seeds have germinated. Allow them to grow until they are big enough to touch each other and have a little crown of spines, when you can transfer them in small clumps of four to six plants to individual 2-inch pots. Being in clumps helps to keep them from being overwatered.
Young Plants
As the seedlings grow, they begin to look more like a cactus. Plants have little bumps with a cluster of small spines atop each bump, more properly called tubercles, that eventually join together to form the ridges on the cactus. When your seedlings fill the pot, unpot them, separate them and give each one its own 2-inch pot. Each time they grow to touch the sides of the pot, transplant them to just the next pot size and gradually give them partial sunlight. When cacti are 6 inches wide, they can be gradually accustomed to garden conditions and planted outdoors. After about 15 years, the plant becomes large enough to flower, and the cycle repeats itself.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Columnar Cacti earned their common name from the slender shape and erect growth habit they exhibit. Several unrelated species are known by the name Columnar Cacti, including Old Man Cactus (Cephalocereus senilis), Firecracker Cactus (Cleistocactus smaragdiflorus) and giant Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea).
Like most cactus species, Columnar Cacti propagate reliably from cuttings and put down roots in only a few weeks. However, the cuttings often rot if potted immediately after harvest, so it is best to dry them out for at least three days before planting to keep them healthy and productive.
1. Disinfect the blade of a sharp knife using a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Lay the knife on a flat surface. Allow the blade dry completely before using it.
2. Select a 3- to 8-inch (7.5 – 20 cm) long piece of Columnar Cactus to root. Make sure the diameter of the cutting is 4 inches (10 cm) or less, because larger columnar cactus cuttings are more difficult to root.
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Steady the top of the Columnar Cactus with one hand. Sever the cutting using the disinfected knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle without sawing the flesh of the plant.
4. Place the cutting upside down in an empty ceramic pot so that the cut end is exposed to the air. Set it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Allow the end of the cutting to dry out for at least three days, or until the wound heals and takes on a hard, whitish appearance.
5. Fill the bottom half of a plastic pot with a mixture of half pumice and half sterile compost. Nestled the dried end of the Columnar Cactus cutting into the growing mixture. Make sure one-third to one-half the length of the cutting is below the edge of the pot.
6. Hold the cutting upright while filling in around the edges with more of the pumice and compost mixture. Shake the pot slightly to settle the growing mixture. Gently firm the mixture around the cutting. Add more, as needed, to fill the pot to within 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of the top.
7. Water the columnar cactus cutting two days after potting it. Drizzle water onto the growing mixture until it feels slightly damp at a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Maintain light dampness in the growing mixture, but allow it to dry out slightly in the top inch before applying more water.
8. Set the potted Columnar Cactus cutting where it will receive very bright but indirect light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). Shelter the cutting from direct sunlight, which can cause the flesh to dehydrate and make it likely the cutting will die.
9. Check for roots four weeks after planting. Firmly hold the base of the cactus, and gently try to lift it; if the cutting does not yield to the movement, it has produced roots.
10. Transplant the Columnar Cactus cutting into a permanent pot filled with succulent potting mix or directly into a sunny garden bed four weeks after it has rooted. Water it sparingly.
Tip
Choose a rooting pot that provides at least 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of space around all sides of the Columnar Cactus cutting. As an alternative to drying your cutting, try dipping the freshly severed end into gardening sulfur, which also helps prevent rot.
Like most cactus species, Columnar Cacti propagate reliably from cuttings and put down roots in only a few weeks. However, the cuttings often rot if potted immediately after harvest, so it is best to dry them out for at least three days before planting to keep them healthy and productive.
1. Disinfect the blade of a sharp knife using a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Lay the knife on a flat surface. Allow the blade dry completely before using it.
2. Select a 3- to 8-inch (7.5 – 20 cm) long piece of Columnar Cactus to root. Make sure the diameter of the cutting is 4 inches (10 cm) or less, because larger columnar cactus cuttings are more difficult to root.
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Steady the top of the Columnar Cactus with one hand. Sever the cutting using the disinfected knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle without sawing the flesh of the plant.
4. Place the cutting upside down in an empty ceramic pot so that the cut end is exposed to the air. Set it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Allow the end of the cutting to dry out for at least three days, or until the wound heals and takes on a hard, whitish appearance.
5. Fill the bottom half of a plastic pot with a mixture of half pumice and half sterile compost. Nestled the dried end of the Columnar Cactus cutting into the growing mixture. Make sure one-third to one-half the length of the cutting is below the edge of the pot.
6. Hold the cutting upright while filling in around the edges with more of the pumice and compost mixture. Shake the pot slightly to settle the growing mixture. Gently firm the mixture around the cutting. Add more, as needed, to fill the pot to within 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of the top.
7. Water the columnar cactus cutting two days after potting it. Drizzle water onto the growing mixture until it feels slightly damp at a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Maintain light dampness in the growing mixture, but allow it to dry out slightly in the top inch before applying more water.
8. Set the potted Columnar Cactus cutting where it will receive very bright but indirect light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). Shelter the cutting from direct sunlight, which can cause the flesh to dehydrate and make it likely the cutting will die.
9. Check for roots four weeks after planting. Firmly hold the base of the cactus, and gently try to lift it; if the cutting does not yield to the movement, it has produced roots.
10. Transplant the Columnar Cactus cutting into a permanent pot filled with succulent potting mix or directly into a sunny garden bed four weeks after it has rooted. Water it sparingly.
Tip
Choose a rooting pot that provides at least 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of space around all sides of the Columnar Cactus cutting. As an alternative to drying your cutting, try dipping the freshly severed end into gardening sulfur, which also helps prevent rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
The Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia sp.) thrives in hot, dry desert areas, growing 3 to 20 feet (0.9 to 6 m) tall, depending on the variety and growing conditions. It spreads to cover 3 to 15 feet (0.9 to 4.5 m). The leaves and fruit are edible once the spines are removed. Leaf pads are eaten as a vegetable. Fruit are eaten raw and used to make juice, jelly and candy.
Prickly Pear Cactus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3b through 11. Once established, Prickly Pear Cactus are easy to care for and tolerate drought for two or three weeks.
Fill small pots or a seed tray with cactus soil. Break up any lumps in soil. Water the soil thoroughly and allow to drain.
Sow the seeds in the late spring when night temperatures consistently reach above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). Rub the Prickly Pear Cactus seeds against a piece of sandpaper to scratch the seed coat. Scratched seeds germinate faster and more reliably than untreated seeds.
Plant one seed per pot or plant seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart in seed trays. Press the seed into the soil and cover with a fine layer of soil, barely 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick.
Mist the soil surface with a fine spray of water. Cover the tray with the plastic lid or put individual pots in plastic bags. Cut a small hole in the plastic to create a vent.
Place the pots or tray in a sunny window or under artificial lights. Check the soil daily for moisture and temperature. Ideal soil and air temperatures for prickly pear cactus is 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If heat builds up under the plastic, move the container or open the vent further to release excess heat. Water the soil as needed with a fine mist, keeping the soil moist but not wet.
Inspect the seedlings daily. Cactus that turn yellow need more light. Brown or red cactus are receiving too much light.
Transplant the seedlings into larger pots or outside once the roots are well-developed. Place the transplants in full sun spaced 24 to 36 inches (60 to 90 cm) apart. Keep the soil moist for the first two weeks or until the plant has adjusted to its new location. Increase the time between watering once the cactus are established, allowing the soil to dry out slightly.
Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to encourage pad growth. If you prefer to encourage flowers and fruit, use a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 0-10-10.
Tips
Harvest Prickly Pear Cactus seeds from the ripe fruit of a Prickly Pear Cactus. Wash the seeds to remove all pulp, and dry them on a paper towel in a warm place for a week or two until completely dry. Store seeds in an air-tight container in a cool, dark place until ready to plant the following spring.
Warning
Prickly Pear Cactus earn their name. Wear gloves and handle the plants carefully, the spines are sharp and cause painful irritation.
Prickly Pear Cactus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3b through 11. Once established, Prickly Pear Cactus are easy to care for and tolerate drought for two or three weeks.
Fill small pots or a seed tray with cactus soil. Break up any lumps in soil. Water the soil thoroughly and allow to drain.
Sow the seeds in the late spring when night temperatures consistently reach above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). Rub the Prickly Pear Cactus seeds against a piece of sandpaper to scratch the seed coat. Scratched seeds germinate faster and more reliably than untreated seeds.
Plant one seed per pot or plant seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart in seed trays. Press the seed into the soil and cover with a fine layer of soil, barely 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick.
Mist the soil surface with a fine spray of water. Cover the tray with the plastic lid or put individual pots in plastic bags. Cut a small hole in the plastic to create a vent.
Place the pots or tray in a sunny window or under artificial lights. Check the soil daily for moisture and temperature. Ideal soil and air temperatures for prickly pear cactus is 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If heat builds up under the plastic, move the container or open the vent further to release excess heat. Water the soil as needed with a fine mist, keeping the soil moist but not wet.
Inspect the seedlings daily. Cactus that turn yellow need more light. Brown or red cactus are receiving too much light.
Transplant the seedlings into larger pots or outside once the roots are well-developed. Place the transplants in full sun spaced 24 to 36 inches (60 to 90 cm) apart. Keep the soil moist for the first two weeks or until the plant has adjusted to its new location. Increase the time between watering once the cactus are established, allowing the soil to dry out slightly.
Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to encourage pad growth. If you prefer to encourage flowers and fruit, use a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 0-10-10.
Tips
Harvest Prickly Pear Cactus seeds from the ripe fruit of a Prickly Pear Cactus. Wash the seeds to remove all pulp, and dry them on a paper towel in a warm place for a week or two until completely dry. Store seeds in an air-tight container in a cool, dark place until ready to plant the following spring.
Warning
Prickly Pear Cactus earn their name. Wear gloves and handle the plants carefully, the spines are sharp and cause painful irritation.
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