文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月20日
La Crassula barbata recibe su nombre de la curiosa disposición de esas cerdas blancas que rodean los bordes de sus hojas. Aunque en principio pueda parecer un cactus en realidad se trata de una Crassulacea. Es originaria del sur de África y se puede encontrar con facilidad en diversas zonas de Sudáfrica, desde el sudoeste en el Great Karoo hasta el oeste en el Central Karoo.
Es una planta bienal o anual con hojas de unos 5 cm de largo y unos 4 cm de ancho que alcanza una altura alrededor de los 30 cm. En primavera se pueden ver unas pequeñas flores blancas que crecen en los tallos centrales de la planta y que alcanzan una altura de 15-20 cm. Tras la floración la planta muere aunque se suelen formar un buen número de rosetas basales que permiten propagar la planta con facilidad.
No es una planta difícil de cultivar aunque hay que tener mucho cuidado con el exceso de humedad pues se pudre fácilmente. Es también bastante susceptible a las cochinillas y las enfermedades fúngicas. Con la Crassula barbata, como con la mayoría de suculentas, es mejor pecar por omisión que por exceso con los riegos. Si tenemos un plato bajo la maceta donde tenemos a la planta lo vaciaremos de inmediato tras el riego para que no se quede el agua allí demasiado tiempo.
Es muy fácil de reproducir a partir de rosetas basales y también por esquejes de hoja. El suelo debe drenar rápido, usaremos pues un sustrato para cactus y suculentas. Necesita una localización muy luminosa pero la planta no debe recibir sol directo. Como vemos los cuidados son los comunes a todas las suculentas. La única precaución es no excederse con el agua.
La mejor época del año para su cultivo y reproducción es el otoño. Si cultivamos una Crassula barbata en una maceta o en el suelo es seguro que al cabo de pocos años tengamos una buena colección de ejemplares pues a pesar de morir tras la floración forma como hemos dicho un gran número de rosetas basales con las que se reproduce espontáneamente.
Es una planta bienal o anual con hojas de unos 5 cm de largo y unos 4 cm de ancho que alcanza una altura alrededor de los 30 cm. En primavera se pueden ver unas pequeñas flores blancas que crecen en los tallos centrales de la planta y que alcanzan una altura de 15-20 cm. Tras la floración la planta muere aunque se suelen formar un buen número de rosetas basales que permiten propagar la planta con facilidad.
No es una planta difícil de cultivar aunque hay que tener mucho cuidado con el exceso de humedad pues se pudre fácilmente. Es también bastante susceptible a las cochinillas y las enfermedades fúngicas. Con la Crassula barbata, como con la mayoría de suculentas, es mejor pecar por omisión que por exceso con los riegos. Si tenemos un plato bajo la maceta donde tenemos a la planta lo vaciaremos de inmediato tras el riego para que no se quede el agua allí demasiado tiempo.
Es muy fácil de reproducir a partir de rosetas basales y también por esquejes de hoja. El suelo debe drenar rápido, usaremos pues un sustrato para cactus y suculentas. Necesita una localización muy luminosa pero la planta no debe recibir sol directo. Como vemos los cuidados son los comunes a todas las suculentas. La única precaución es no excederse con el agua.
La mejor época del año para su cultivo y reproducción es el otoño. Si cultivamos una Crassula barbata en una maceta o en el suelo es seguro que al cabo de pocos años tengamos una buena colección de ejemplares pues a pesar de morir tras la floración forma como hemos dicho un gran número de rosetas basales con las que se reproduce espontáneamente.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月20日
El género Matucana pertenece a la familia Cactaceae y es nativo de Perú. Concretamente de Matucana, la ciudad andina de la que toma su nombre. El género incluye unas 20 especies de cactus repartidas actualmente por toda Sudamérica. Plantas adaptadas a crecer en duras condiciones climáticas a 2500 metros sobre el nivel del mar. Es un cactus muy popular entre los aficionados a este tipo de plantas por su facilidad de cultivo.
Se caracterizan los cactus de este género por su bonito color verde y su forma cilíndrica o esférica. Son de pequeño o medio tamaño y presentan numerosas nervaduras segmentadas en densas espinas y tubérculos. La floración es apical y por lo general se produce a finales de primavera o comienzo del verano. Las flores son alargadas y de forma tubular. Eclosionan por la noche y duran entre 2 y 4 días. Sus colores van desde el blanco al rojo pasando por el amarillo y el naranja.
Todas las especies son sensibles a la humedad y por lo tanto el riego debe limitarse exclusivamente a la estación de crecimiento y debe realizarse solamente cuando el sustrato esté completamente seco. Durante el invierno, la época de reposo, deberemos suspender por completo el riego. Ya que tienden a perder sus raíces por el frío y la humedad estas plantas deben mantenerse calientes incluso en invierno. La temperatura adecuada no debe bajar nunca de los 10ºC. Algunas especies, por adaptación natural, pueden resistir temperaturas inferiores 0ºC.
El crecimiento vegetativo de estos cactus es bastante rápido en condiciones ambientales óptimas. Concretamente baja humedad ambiental y variación térmica importante entre el día y la noche. En estas condiciones puede florecer en 2-3 años. Los cactus del género Matucana deben cultivarse en suelo poroso y bien drenado. Puede estar compuesto en gran parte por arena, grava y lapilli. El suelo debe ser rico en potasio y pobre en nitrógeno. Ya que las raíces son muy delicadas y susceptibles a la putrefacción, el suelo debe mantenerse lo más seco posible: no hay que olvidar que en su ambiente natural estas plantas crecen en lugares escarpados y de difícil acceso. Se cultiva a pleno sol aunque temperaturas superiores a 32ºC no le suelen ir demasiado bien. En estos casos de calor fuerte es mejor cultivarlo en sombra parcial.
Se caracterizan los cactus de este género por su bonito color verde y su forma cilíndrica o esférica. Son de pequeño o medio tamaño y presentan numerosas nervaduras segmentadas en densas espinas y tubérculos. La floración es apical y por lo general se produce a finales de primavera o comienzo del verano. Las flores son alargadas y de forma tubular. Eclosionan por la noche y duran entre 2 y 4 días. Sus colores van desde el blanco al rojo pasando por el amarillo y el naranja.
Todas las especies son sensibles a la humedad y por lo tanto el riego debe limitarse exclusivamente a la estación de crecimiento y debe realizarse solamente cuando el sustrato esté completamente seco. Durante el invierno, la época de reposo, deberemos suspender por completo el riego. Ya que tienden a perder sus raíces por el frío y la humedad estas plantas deben mantenerse calientes incluso en invierno. La temperatura adecuada no debe bajar nunca de los 10ºC. Algunas especies, por adaptación natural, pueden resistir temperaturas inferiores 0ºC.
El crecimiento vegetativo de estos cactus es bastante rápido en condiciones ambientales óptimas. Concretamente baja humedad ambiental y variación térmica importante entre el día y la noche. En estas condiciones puede florecer en 2-3 años. Los cactus del género Matucana deben cultivarse en suelo poroso y bien drenado. Puede estar compuesto en gran parte por arena, grava y lapilli. El suelo debe ser rico en potasio y pobre en nitrógeno. Ya que las raíces son muy delicadas y susceptibles a la putrefacción, el suelo debe mantenerse lo más seco posible: no hay que olvidar que en su ambiente natural estas plantas crecen en lugares escarpados y de difícil acceso. Se cultiva a pleno sol aunque temperaturas superiores a 32ºC no le suelen ir demasiado bien. En estos casos de calor fuerte es mejor cultivarlo en sombra parcial.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月20日
También conocido por su nombre científico, Espostoa lanata, o por su nombre popular, cactus del anciano peruano. Se trata de un cactus oriundo del norte del Perú y de la provincia de Loja en Ecuador. Estamos ante un cactus de los llamados arborescentes que puede alcanzar una altura de hasta 5 metros.
Ello no impide que lo podamos cultivar en maceta sin problema alguno pues es un cactus de crecimiento muy lento. En diez años puede alcanzar los 25 cm como mucho. Eso prácticamente lo dice todo. Desde muy joven el Espostoa lanata se ve recubierto de unas largas y finas espinas de apariencia lanosa. Y también de otras espinas, más afiladas, de color blanco, amarillo o rojo de hasta unos 4 cm de longitud. Las flores, blancas, tienen unos 5 cm de diámetro y son de aparición nocturna.
Las especies más populares para cultivo ornamental son las que tienen las espinas lanosas más pronunciadas. Se suelen vender ya iniciadas en los centros de jardinería y son ejemplares que raramente llegan a la madurez. Los cactus columnares no crecen muy vigorosamente cuando se cultivan en maceta. El motivo es que tienden a desarrollar sus raíces rápidamente y ocupar todo el espacio que ofrece la maceta y después dejan de crecer.
Ello nos obliga a cambiar constantemente de maceta o directamente plantar el cactus en el suelo si tenemos posibilidad. Debido a todo esto es que este tipo de cactus raramente llegan a la madurez y al no producir el cefalio pues no llegan a florecer nunca. Para conseguir que florezcan hemos de cultivarlos en el suelo y sobre todo tener mucha paciencia y vivir en una zona geográfica que permita este cultivo al aire libre.
Al igual que todos los cactus, el Espostoa melanostele, necesita un ambiente cálido, muy soleado y un suelo muy bien drenado. En verano agradecerá un poco de fertilización y algo más de agua, sobre todo si vivimos en una zona cálida. En invierno necesitará descanso y una temperatura que no baje demasiado de los 12ºC.
Ello no impide que lo podamos cultivar en maceta sin problema alguno pues es un cactus de crecimiento muy lento. En diez años puede alcanzar los 25 cm como mucho. Eso prácticamente lo dice todo. Desde muy joven el Espostoa lanata se ve recubierto de unas largas y finas espinas de apariencia lanosa. Y también de otras espinas, más afiladas, de color blanco, amarillo o rojo de hasta unos 4 cm de longitud. Las flores, blancas, tienen unos 5 cm de diámetro y son de aparición nocturna.
Las especies más populares para cultivo ornamental son las que tienen las espinas lanosas más pronunciadas. Se suelen vender ya iniciadas en los centros de jardinería y son ejemplares que raramente llegan a la madurez. Los cactus columnares no crecen muy vigorosamente cuando se cultivan en maceta. El motivo es que tienden a desarrollar sus raíces rápidamente y ocupar todo el espacio que ofrece la maceta y después dejan de crecer.
Ello nos obliga a cambiar constantemente de maceta o directamente plantar el cactus en el suelo si tenemos posibilidad. Debido a todo esto es que este tipo de cactus raramente llegan a la madurez y al no producir el cefalio pues no llegan a florecer nunca. Para conseguir que florezcan hemos de cultivarlos en el suelo y sobre todo tener mucha paciencia y vivir en una zona geográfica que permita este cultivo al aire libre.
Al igual que todos los cactus, el Espostoa melanostele, necesita un ambiente cálido, muy soleado y un suelo muy bien drenado. En verano agradecerá un poco de fertilización y algo más de agua, sobre todo si vivimos en una zona cálida. En invierno necesitará descanso y una temperatura que no baje demasiado de los 12ºC.
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成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月20日
I went to get some cactus soil to set these guys up again as well as all of my other cacti and succulents in insuitable soil, but they hadn't any. I read online somewhere that when the tips of the leaves start to go red, its a sign roots are about to come so hopefully I can get some soil before they shoot out!
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meriunkat：yes!🙌👍
文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月20日
Los cactus y las plantas suculentas se reproducen de maneras muy similares. Hay, básicamente, cinco métodos de propagación de cactus y suculentas que pasamos a describir a continuación. Además hay que tener en cuenta que cada método de propagación se acomoda mejor a unos especies que a otras. Veremos pues también qué especies se pueden reproducir en cada método de propagación.
A veces es muy fácil identificar la mejor manera de propagar un cactus o suculenta, y otras veces no lo es. Lo primero que debes preguntarte es: ¿Qué tipo de planta tengo? Si no lo sabes presta atención a estas preguntas: ¿Cómo se forma? ¿Es alta y delgada, corta y redonda, o tiene muchas hojas pequeñas? ¿Cómo crece? ¿Florece? Lo siguiente será identificar el tipo de propagación para nuestra suculenta.
Semillas
La mayoría de los cactus se pueden propagar por semillas. Sin embargo, debido al lento crecimiento de algunas especies, a veces son más prácticos otros métodos . Los cactus con hábitos solitarios de crecimiento se propagan mejor por semillas. Como:
Notocactus spp. (género Parodia)
Neoporteria spp. (género Eriosyce)
Si quires saber más sobre el método de propagación por semilla te sugerimos este artículo.
Esquejes
La propagación por esquejes es fácil y práctica. Muchos cactus y plantas suculentas se pueden propagar por esquejes de tallo. En general, si la planta tiene una región alargada del tallo que está creciendo activamente, la propagación por esquejes debe funcionar bien. Algunas especies para las que se recomienda este método son:
Género Opuntia
Cereus y Trichocereus (género Echinopsis)
Género Mammillaria
Euforbio
Stapeliads
Bryophyllum
Kalanchoe
Graptopetalum
Aquí puedes aprender a reproducir suculentas por esqueje paso a paso.
Esquejes de hoja
La mayoría de las plantas suculentas se pueden propagar por esquejes de hojas. Los géneros que típicamente se propagan de esta manera son, aunque no exclusivamente:
Gasteria
Haworthia , Sansevieria
Crassulaceae ( Kalanchoe , Sedum , Graptopetalum , etc.).
Injerto
El injerto requiere un patrón resistente que sea compatible con el candidato a propagar. Esta compatibilidad es muy importante, sin ella el éxito del injerto es poco probable. Para cactus y suculentas se suelen seguir las siguientes combinaciones de patrón e injerto:
Patrón: Hylocereus trigonus
Injertos compatibles: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra.
Patrón: Hylocereus undatus
Injertos compatibles: cactus epífitos , como los cactus de Navidad y cactus cilíndricos y globulares
Patrón: Cereus repandus
Injertos compatibles: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’
Patrón: Echinopsis spachiana
Injertos compatibles: Cereus, Espotoa , Echinocactus , Lobivia y Melocactus
No te pierdas nuestra guía completa para aprender a injertar cactus.
Bulbos, tubérculos, plántulas y acodos
Muchas plantas suculentas se propagan asexualmente por medio de brotes laterales subterráneos. Estos brotes dan lugar a plántulas que se pueden cortar para producir una nueva planta autosostenible. El aloe y algunos ágaves forman plántulas o bulbillos en sus tallos. Se pueden quitar y plantarlos en otro lugar. Los Kalanchoe producen pequeñas plántulas en los bordes festoneados de sus hojas. Estas plántulas también pueden ser usadas, en condiciones de temperaturas cálidas, para reproducir la planta.
A veces es muy fácil identificar la mejor manera de propagar un cactus o suculenta, y otras veces no lo es. Lo primero que debes preguntarte es: ¿Qué tipo de planta tengo? Si no lo sabes presta atención a estas preguntas: ¿Cómo se forma? ¿Es alta y delgada, corta y redonda, o tiene muchas hojas pequeñas? ¿Cómo crece? ¿Florece? Lo siguiente será identificar el tipo de propagación para nuestra suculenta.
Semillas
La mayoría de los cactus se pueden propagar por semillas. Sin embargo, debido al lento crecimiento de algunas especies, a veces son más prácticos otros métodos . Los cactus con hábitos solitarios de crecimiento se propagan mejor por semillas. Como:
Notocactus spp. (género Parodia)
Neoporteria spp. (género Eriosyce)
Si quires saber más sobre el método de propagación por semilla te sugerimos este artículo.
Esquejes
La propagación por esquejes es fácil y práctica. Muchos cactus y plantas suculentas se pueden propagar por esquejes de tallo. En general, si la planta tiene una región alargada del tallo que está creciendo activamente, la propagación por esquejes debe funcionar bien. Algunas especies para las que se recomienda este método son:
Género Opuntia
Cereus y Trichocereus (género Echinopsis)
Género Mammillaria
Euforbio
Stapeliads
Bryophyllum
Kalanchoe
Graptopetalum
Aquí puedes aprender a reproducir suculentas por esqueje paso a paso.
Esquejes de hoja
La mayoría de las plantas suculentas se pueden propagar por esquejes de hojas. Los géneros que típicamente se propagan de esta manera son, aunque no exclusivamente:
Gasteria
Haworthia , Sansevieria
Crassulaceae ( Kalanchoe , Sedum , Graptopetalum , etc.).
Injerto
El injerto requiere un patrón resistente que sea compatible con el candidato a propagar. Esta compatibilidad es muy importante, sin ella el éxito del injerto es poco probable. Para cactus y suculentas se suelen seguir las siguientes combinaciones de patrón e injerto:
Patrón: Hylocereus trigonus
Injertos compatibles: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra.
Patrón: Hylocereus undatus
Injertos compatibles: cactus epífitos , como los cactus de Navidad y cactus cilíndricos y globulares
Patrón: Cereus repandus
Injertos compatibles: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’
Patrón: Echinopsis spachiana
Injertos compatibles: Cereus, Espotoa , Echinocactus , Lobivia y Melocactus
No te pierdas nuestra guía completa para aprender a injertar cactus.
Bulbos, tubérculos, plántulas y acodos
Muchas plantas suculentas se propagan asexualmente por medio de brotes laterales subterráneos. Estos brotes dan lugar a plántulas que se pueden cortar para producir una nueva planta autosostenible. El aloe y algunos ágaves forman plántulas o bulbillos en sus tallos. Se pueden quitar y plantarlos en otro lugar. Los Kalanchoe producen pequeñas plántulas en los bordes festoneados de sus hojas. Estas plántulas también pueden ser usadas, en condiciones de temperaturas cálidas, para reproducir la planta.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) blossoms are the state flower of Arizona. The cactus is a very slow growing plant, which may add only 1 to 1,5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) in the first eight years of life. The Saguaro grows arms or lateral stems but it may take up to 75 years to produce the first one. Saguaro are very long lived and many found in the desert are 175 years old. It is likely that rather than growing Saguaro cactus in the home garden, you may find yourself the becoming owner of a well established Saguaro when you buy a new home or build a home on land where Saguaro Cactus already grow.
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet (1,220 m). If they are growing above 4,000 feet (1,220 m), the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro Cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro Cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Saguaro Cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro Cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation.
Saguaro Cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle.
There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro Cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across. The Saguaro blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet (1,220 m). If they are growing above 4,000 feet (1,220 m), the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro Cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is not legal to procure a Saguaro Cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted.
Saguaro Cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro Cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation.
Saguaro Cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle.
There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms
Saguaro Cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across. The Saguaro blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ortegocactus is a cactus genus that consists of only one species that was discovered relatively recently in the second half of the 20th century. It grows in a very small area on limestone in Oaxaca, Mexico. Ortegocactus macdougallii is the only species, and an exceedingly rare greenish grey clumper. Though its now showing up in cultivation. The 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) heads offset profusely and these offsets can be used for propagation along with seeds. The plant is self fertile and only one is needed to produce fruits and seeds. The flowers come in spring or summer and are yellow.
An interesting characteristic of this plant is the beautiful gray-green dermis, which is notably porous and has a skin-like appearance. Like so many of the small species of Mexican cacti, Ortegocactus is highly prized by collectors. However, as these plants age, they tend to develop rust-colored spots on them even in the care of the most accomplished growers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Ortegocactus macdougallii likes light shade to full sun. It is often grafted since it is tricky to grow when on its own roots. Water moderately in summer and very carefully if at all in winter. It show a distinct intolerance to over watering either by rotting off, or by bursting of the epidermis. Grow Ortegocactus in a fast draining mineral mix. To prevent growing a monster totally out of proportion to their attractive and natural form, you should limit the fertilizer.
Propagation
Very slow from seed. Many authors recommend grafting, first on Pereskiopsis and soon on Myrtillocactus geometrizans. If it does not reject the stock, it is possible to be cultivated without problems. If we prefer to cultivate it on its own roots, we can maintain intact its characteristics without deformities, grafted plants clump readily and the offsets can be used for make cuttings.
An interesting characteristic of this plant is the beautiful gray-green dermis, which is notably porous and has a skin-like appearance. Like so many of the small species of Mexican cacti, Ortegocactus is highly prized by collectors. However, as these plants age, they tend to develop rust-colored spots on them even in the care of the most accomplished growers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Ortegocactus macdougallii likes light shade to full sun. It is often grafted since it is tricky to grow when on its own roots. Water moderately in summer and very carefully if at all in winter. It show a distinct intolerance to over watering either by rotting off, or by bursting of the epidermis. Grow Ortegocactus in a fast draining mineral mix. To prevent growing a monster totally out of proportion to their attractive and natural form, you should limit the fertilizer.
Propagation
Very slow from seed. Many authors recommend grafting, first on Pereskiopsis and soon on Myrtillocactus geometrizans. If it does not reject the stock, it is possible to be cultivated without problems. If we prefer to cultivate it on its own roots, we can maintain intact its characteristics without deformities, grafted plants clump readily and the offsets can be used for make cuttings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Rhipsalis is a cacti genus with approximately 35 distinct species. One of the most popular varieties is Rhipsalis baccifera, also known as Mistletoe Cactus. This should not be confused with the plant commonly called Christmas Cactus; although they are cousins, they are very different plants and are not classified in the same genus.
While many people think of the prickly plants that are native to the American deserts when they hear the name “cactus“, most Rhipsalis have no needles, and they would not survive the dry soil and bright sun of a desert. Virtually all species are native to the rainforests of South America, the Caribbean, and Central America, leading to their classification as jungle cacti. The difference between the native environments of jungle and desert cacti means that caring for Rhipsalis requires overcoming any pre-conceived notions you might have about what cacti prefer.
Lighting Requirements
Rhipsalis does not thrive in direct sunlight. Exposure to afternoon sun can burn the leaves, turn them yellow, or lead to spotting. However, without sufficient sunlight, They will not bloom, and its growth can be stunted. Rhipsalis does best with morning sun and full shade in the afternoon. As Rhipsalis is commonly grown indoors, care must be given to the placement of the plants. They should be kept at least 20 inches (50 cm) away from windows that receive midday or afternoon sun. The glass in the windows can multiply the heat from the sun’s rays, causing sunburned leaves. Keep in mind that in its native environment, Rhipsalis is accustomed to receiving light that has been filtered through dense, overhanging tree branches. Picturing this environment can help you adjust your lighting accordingly.
Watering
Rhipsalis is not a drought-resistant plant, so regular watering is essential. Over-watering, however, can cause weak stems and rotted roots. Using a watering can may help you measure the amount of water you are providing. The size of the pot compared to the size of the plant, the humidity levels in the home, and the type of potting soil used can all affect the watering frequency. Rhipsalis seldom needs to be watered more than once a week. Check before watering by pressing your finger into the soil to a depth of half an inch. Postpone watering if the soil is moist. You can also use a moisture meter to help you determine whether it is time to water.
Selecting Pots
Rhipsalis does best when planted in clay pots. The advantage of clay pots is that they allow the soil to “breathe” better than other types, helping to dissipate moisture that could rot the plant’s roots. Most varieties of They produce long, hanging leaves that make them ideal hanging plants, so when selecting pots, many people choose styles that can be placed in a metal or macramé plant hanger.
Soil
Novices to the world of jungle cacti might prefer purchasing a potting soil made specifically for cacti. Gardeners with experience growing succulents can make their own by combining regular potting soil with sphagnum, coir, orchid bark, or gravel to ensure proper drainage. Most types of Rhipsalis will need to be transplanted every two or three years using fresh potting soil. When repotting, take care not to damage the roots.
Fertilizing
Do not feed newly repotted or just-purchased Rhipsalis for 12 months. Rhipsalis does not need feeding until the soil begins to become depleted of nutrients. If feeding is desired, use a diluted, half-strength fertilizer formulated for cacti. Feed monthly only during spring and summer months. Follow the directions provided with the fertilizer to determine the correct quantity, which will be based on plant size, pot size, and other factors.
While many people think of the prickly plants that are native to the American deserts when they hear the name “cactus“, most Rhipsalis have no needles, and they would not survive the dry soil and bright sun of a desert. Virtually all species are native to the rainforests of South America, the Caribbean, and Central America, leading to their classification as jungle cacti. The difference between the native environments of jungle and desert cacti means that caring for Rhipsalis requires overcoming any pre-conceived notions you might have about what cacti prefer.
Lighting Requirements
Rhipsalis does not thrive in direct sunlight. Exposure to afternoon sun can burn the leaves, turn them yellow, or lead to spotting. However, without sufficient sunlight, They will not bloom, and its growth can be stunted. Rhipsalis does best with morning sun and full shade in the afternoon. As Rhipsalis is commonly grown indoors, care must be given to the placement of the plants. They should be kept at least 20 inches (50 cm) away from windows that receive midday or afternoon sun. The glass in the windows can multiply the heat from the sun’s rays, causing sunburned leaves. Keep in mind that in its native environment, Rhipsalis is accustomed to receiving light that has been filtered through dense, overhanging tree branches. Picturing this environment can help you adjust your lighting accordingly.
Watering
Rhipsalis is not a drought-resistant plant, so regular watering is essential. Over-watering, however, can cause weak stems and rotted roots. Using a watering can may help you measure the amount of water you are providing. The size of the pot compared to the size of the plant, the humidity levels in the home, and the type of potting soil used can all affect the watering frequency. Rhipsalis seldom needs to be watered more than once a week. Check before watering by pressing your finger into the soil to a depth of half an inch. Postpone watering if the soil is moist. You can also use a moisture meter to help you determine whether it is time to water.
Selecting Pots
Rhipsalis does best when planted in clay pots. The advantage of clay pots is that they allow the soil to “breathe” better than other types, helping to dissipate moisture that could rot the plant’s roots. Most varieties of They produce long, hanging leaves that make them ideal hanging plants, so when selecting pots, many people choose styles that can be placed in a metal or macramé plant hanger.
Soil
Novices to the world of jungle cacti might prefer purchasing a potting soil made specifically for cacti. Gardeners with experience growing succulents can make their own by combining regular potting soil with sphagnum, coir, orchid bark, or gravel to ensure proper drainage. Most types of Rhipsalis will need to be transplanted every two or three years using fresh potting soil. When repotting, take care not to damage the roots.
Fertilizing
Do not feed newly repotted or just-purchased Rhipsalis for 12 months. Rhipsalis does not need feeding until the soil begins to become depleted of nutrients. If feeding is desired, use a diluted, half-strength fertilizer formulated for cacti. Feed monthly only during spring and summer months. Follow the directions provided with the fertilizer to determine the correct quantity, which will be based on plant size, pot size, and other factors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Hatiora is a species of cultivated ornamental cactus with commonly known varieties such as Easter Cactus, Whitsun Cactus or Christmas Cactus, depending on its flowering season. These plants are among the most popular varieties of cultivated cactus. Some varieties, such as Drunken Dream, have arched stems and are sold for hanging baskets. It is an epiphytic plant, one that grows mostly on tree trunks in wet and humid regions.
The stems of Hatiora may be leaf-shaped or flat. Depending on the species, it can grow to maximum lengths ranging between 20 inches (50 cm) and 6 feet (1.8 m). The stems are green all year round and are smooth, rather than toothed or scalloped. Funnel-shaped, small flowers that resemble tiny daisies grow at the end of stem segments. These range in colour from yellow, orange, red and pink. In some conditions, Hatiora can flower twice a year.
Hatiora grows in the wild in tropical rain forests of south Eastern Brazil, as far south as the state of Parana, along the border with Paraguay. Although it grows mostly on tree trunks, it is sometimes found growing on rocky ground. In the wild, Hatiora bloom in spring and will sometimes flower twice in one year.
Growing Conditions
Light: This tropical cacti likes bright partial light only. It should never be exposed to full sunlight or midday sunlight.
Water: Soil should be kept constantly moist, but never soggy. Do not allow water to sit in the dish underneath.
Temperature: Hatioras prefers spring, summer, and fall temperatures around 75-80 °F (24-27 °C). Winter temperatures should be between 45-65 °F (7-18 °C) only.
Soil: Due to its natural growing environment being on rocks or trees, this cacti requires rough soil to grow well. A 1:1 mixture of potting soil to pumice, tree bark, or perlite is required. Pumice is preferred.
Fertilizer: Hatioras prefers fertilization every 14 days. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, and dilute to half strength. Do not fertilize during resting period.
Grower’s Tips
Hatiora thrives best in indirect light with exposure to morning and evening sun. It prefers a well drained soil. Cactus or epiphytic compost works well. It can be propagated easily through cuttings that can root immediately in soil. Hatiora likes long nights of about 14 hours. Cover the plant with a paper bag to shut out sunlight. Try not to reposition the plant once flower buds appear, as these could fall off during any movement. It needs a month’s rest after flowering, so water sparingly during this period.
The stems of Hatiora may be leaf-shaped or flat. Depending on the species, it can grow to maximum lengths ranging between 20 inches (50 cm) and 6 feet (1.8 m). The stems are green all year round and are smooth, rather than toothed or scalloped. Funnel-shaped, small flowers that resemble tiny daisies grow at the end of stem segments. These range in colour from yellow, orange, red and pink. In some conditions, Hatiora can flower twice a year.
Hatiora grows in the wild in tropical rain forests of south Eastern Brazil, as far south as the state of Parana, along the border with Paraguay. Although it grows mostly on tree trunks, it is sometimes found growing on rocky ground. In the wild, Hatiora bloom in spring and will sometimes flower twice in one year.
Growing Conditions
Light: This tropical cacti likes bright partial light only. It should never be exposed to full sunlight or midday sunlight.
Water: Soil should be kept constantly moist, but never soggy. Do not allow water to sit in the dish underneath.
Temperature: Hatioras prefers spring, summer, and fall temperatures around 75-80 °F (24-27 °C). Winter temperatures should be between 45-65 °F (7-18 °C) only.
Soil: Due to its natural growing environment being on rocks or trees, this cacti requires rough soil to grow well. A 1:1 mixture of potting soil to pumice, tree bark, or perlite is required. Pumice is preferred.
Fertilizer: Hatioras prefers fertilization every 14 days. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, and dilute to half strength. Do not fertilize during resting period.
Grower’s Tips
Hatiora thrives best in indirect light with exposure to morning and evening sun. It prefers a well drained soil. Cactus or epiphytic compost works well. It can be propagated easily through cuttings that can root immediately in soil. Hatiora likes long nights of about 14 hours. Cover the plant with a paper bag to shut out sunlight. Try not to reposition the plant once flower buds appear, as these could fall off during any movement. It needs a month’s rest after flowering, so water sparingly during this period.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Obregonia, the Artichoke Cactus, is a genus of cacti with a single species, Obregonia denegrii. It is found only within the Valley of Jaumave in the state of Tamaulipas in eastern Mexico. The Artichoke Cactus is found in semi-desert and shrubland at elevations of around 1970 – 2300 feet (600 – 700 m) above sea level. It is often found on rocky, gentle slopes in limestone gravel.
This small cactus is just visible above the surface of the ground, as the heads emerge only slightly from the larger underground root system. The distinctive appearance of the head, which has given rise to the common name of “Artichoke Cactus”, is formed by the spirally arranged, erect tubercles. At the tip of each, there are 3 – 4 flexible spines. White flowers emerge from the centre of the whorl of tubercles, and these develop into whitish-brown fruits if cross-pollination is successful.
This striking cactus produces flowers during the summer months. Fruits develop if the flowers are successfully fertilised through cross-pollination. The fruits dry and then split open, allowing the seeds to be washed away (and therefore dispersed) by rain.
The Nahuatl Indians call the plant Peyotl, and it is said to have hallucinogenic alkaloids. It is one of the closest living relatives of the genus Lophophora.
Growing Conditions
Light: Requires ful sun to develop good compact growth.
Water: Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter.
Temperature: It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period.
Soil: Very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus).
Propagation
Almost exclusively by seeds. But the seedlings are tiny and very slow growing and at first they take one or two years to reach the diameter of 0.1 – 0.2 inch (3 – 5 mm).
Grower’s Tips
This slow growing cactus isn’t always the easiest species to cultivate, but can enlarge relatively fast when well grown. It is often seen as a grafted plant but grows very well on its own roots too. Needs a very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus). Requires full sun to develop good compact growth and watering should be rather infrequent, to keep the plant flat shaped and not become excessively elongated and unnatural in appearance. Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter, or when night temperatures remain below 50° F (10° C). It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period. In the rest period no high atmospheric humidity. Ensure a good ventilation.
This small cactus is just visible above the surface of the ground, as the heads emerge only slightly from the larger underground root system. The distinctive appearance of the head, which has given rise to the common name of “Artichoke Cactus”, is formed by the spirally arranged, erect tubercles. At the tip of each, there are 3 – 4 flexible spines. White flowers emerge from the centre of the whorl of tubercles, and these develop into whitish-brown fruits if cross-pollination is successful.
This striking cactus produces flowers during the summer months. Fruits develop if the flowers are successfully fertilised through cross-pollination. The fruits dry and then split open, allowing the seeds to be washed away (and therefore dispersed) by rain.
The Nahuatl Indians call the plant Peyotl, and it is said to have hallucinogenic alkaloids. It is one of the closest living relatives of the genus Lophophora.
Growing Conditions
Light: Requires ful sun to develop good compact growth.
Water: Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter.
Temperature: It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period.
Soil: Very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus).
Propagation
Almost exclusively by seeds. But the seedlings are tiny and very slow growing and at first they take one or two years to reach the diameter of 0.1 – 0.2 inch (3 – 5 mm).
Grower’s Tips
This slow growing cactus isn’t always the easiest species to cultivate, but can enlarge relatively fast when well grown. It is often seen as a grafted plant but grows very well on its own roots too. Needs a very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus). Requires full sun to develop good compact growth and watering should be rather infrequent, to keep the plant flat shaped and not become excessively elongated and unnatural in appearance. Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter, or when night temperatures remain below 50° F (10° C). It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period. In the rest period no high atmospheric humidity. Ensure a good ventilation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Leuchtenbergia principis (Agave Cactus or Prism Cactus), the sole species of the genus Leuchtenbergia, is a species of cactus native to the Chihuahaun desert in central and northern Mexico. While it has a fairly wide distribution, it is never common in any locality, typically having widely dispersed individual plants. In habitat, plants almost invariably grow in association with grasses, Yuccas, or Agaves, where their distinctive tubercles and paper-like spines help to camouflage them. The fragrant flowers of this plant are large, to over 3 inches (7.5 cm) across, with attractive, satiny, pale-yellow petals. Individual flowers may only last 2 or 3 days each, but are typically produced in succession so that the total display may last intermittently through the summer months. Flowers arise from the areoles at the tips of young tubercles – mostly (if not exclusively) on the current year’s growth. This species is closely related to Ferocactus, and plants of the two genera are sometimes hybridized – presumably producing some rather unusual looking hybrids.
Agave Cactus is an exceptional plant which is particularly attractive to people who like some of the odder cactus species. Its leaf-like tubercles are practically unique to the cactus family, and its papery, tassel-like spines means that this plant presents little chance of injury to its grower. In time, plants will develop a desert-worn appearance which many growers favor. Best of all, it is a reliable bloomer, producing large, satiny, butter yellow colored flowers. This is a plant with lots of character, and unexpected beauty. To be fair, it may not be the perfect plant for the novice grower, but for those growers who do not mind catering a bit to the specific needs of their plants, this is an excellent choice.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to light shade.
Water: Water carefully, lack of water will make the tip of the tubercles yellow. Too much water will make it rot.
Temperature: Agave Cactus is frost tolerant, and will survive brief exposure to hard frosts (down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit / -7 degrees Celsius).
Soil: The potting medium should be especially gritty to provide extra drainage.
Fertilizer: Feed potted plants yearly.
Propagation
Agave Cactus is usually propagated by seeds, as it rarely pup or have offsets. It has been reported that the plants can be propagated by tubercle cuttings, but this method is not common.
Grower’s Tips
The Agave Cactus is a reasonably easy and tolerant plant, and should grow well given the basic guidelines for growing cacti and other succulents. However, this is a desert species, which is adapted to arid conditions, and seems to benefit from intense solar radiation. It should always be moved to a position outside during the warmer months of spring through early fall to benefit from exposure to direct sunlight, and the increased temperatures of summer. Grown exclusively indoors, this species will slowly languish from the comparatively low light levels of interior spaces, and will probably never really thrive. Grown outdoors, this plant has proven to be a reliable bloomer, invariably producing intermittent blooms from late June through September. Despite its desert origins, Agave Cactus tolerate a remarkable amount of rain through their outdoor growing season, but due to their large, turnip-like roots, they can be very susceptible to root rot when exposed to extended cool and wet conditions, so the potting medium should be especially gritty to provide that extra drainage necessary for this species, and extra care should be given through the winter months to prevent over-watering this species. Many growers do not water this plant at all in the winter.
Agave Cactus is an exceptional plant which is particularly attractive to people who like some of the odder cactus species. Its leaf-like tubercles are practically unique to the cactus family, and its papery, tassel-like spines means that this plant presents little chance of injury to its grower. In time, plants will develop a desert-worn appearance which many growers favor. Best of all, it is a reliable bloomer, producing large, satiny, butter yellow colored flowers. This is a plant with lots of character, and unexpected beauty. To be fair, it may not be the perfect plant for the novice grower, but for those growers who do not mind catering a bit to the specific needs of their plants, this is an excellent choice.
Growing ConditionsLight: Full sun to light shade.
Water: Water carefully, lack of water will make the tip of the tubercles yellow. Too much water will make it rot.
Temperature: Agave Cactus is frost tolerant, and will survive brief exposure to hard frosts (down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit / -7 degrees Celsius).
Soil: The potting medium should be especially gritty to provide extra drainage.
Fertilizer: Feed potted plants yearly.
Propagation
Agave Cactus is usually propagated by seeds, as it rarely pup or have offsets. It has been reported that the plants can be propagated by tubercle cuttings, but this method is not common.
Grower’s Tips
The Agave Cactus is a reasonably easy and tolerant plant, and should grow well given the basic guidelines for growing cacti and other succulents. However, this is a desert species, which is adapted to arid conditions, and seems to benefit from intense solar radiation. It should always be moved to a position outside during the warmer months of spring through early fall to benefit from exposure to direct sunlight, and the increased temperatures of summer. Grown exclusively indoors, this species will slowly languish from the comparatively low light levels of interior spaces, and will probably never really thrive. Grown outdoors, this plant has proven to be a reliable bloomer, invariably producing intermittent blooms from late June through September. Despite its desert origins, Agave Cactus tolerate a remarkable amount of rain through their outdoor growing season, but due to their large, turnip-like roots, they can be very susceptible to root rot when exposed to extended cool and wet conditions, so the potting medium should be especially gritty to provide that extra drainage necessary for this species, and extra care should be given through the winter months to prevent over-watering this species. Many growers do not water this plant at all in the winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you see a Rose Cactus (Pereskia) while it is dormant in the winter, you’ll have no trouble believing it’s in the cactus family. Leaves drop off in cold weather, revealing the bare green stem armed with the same kind of spines you’ll see in Rose Cactus’ succulent desert relatives. In summer, when bright green 8-inch-(20 cm)-long leaves and pink, white, yellow or coral flowers cover the stems, it looks like a broadleaf shrub. The genus Pereskia is native to South and Central America and has about 24 species.
Plant Description
Most Pereskias have woody, upright growth, but some scramble in a vine-like manner, using hooked spines to support themselves. Spines emerge from wooly hairs where the leaf joins the stem. Flowers are followed by fleshy yellow or orange fruits that attract birds. Species of Rose Cactus vary in how tall they are and how vigorously they grow. The Wax Rose Cactus (Pereskia grandifolia), native to Brazil, has pink flowers and grows 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) tall. Another commonly grown species with fragrant white, pink or yellow flowers is sometimes called Lemon Vine (Pereskia aculeata). It has a clambering growth habit. Rose Cacti grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, where you can trellis them or keep them pruned back as a shorter shrubby plant. In USDA zones below 10, grow Rose Cactus as a container plant that you can move indoors in winter.
Relationship to Other Cacti
Rose Cactus is regarded as a primitive cactus that gives some idea of what the ancestors of succulent leafless cacti might look like. The stems and leaves store water to some degree, and spine patterns are similar. They possess most of the water-use adaptations that allow succulent leafless cacti to succeed. Rose Cactus has shallow root systems to allow quick water uptake, they slow water loss by closing their breathing holes called stomata and are capable of using crassulacean acid metabolism during hot, dry conditions. These adaptations allow their use in drought-tolerant and xeriscape gardens, giving the lush appearance of large green leaves even under tough conditions.
Cultivation
Use a rich, well-drained soil for Rose Cactus. The University of Oklahoma recommends a mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part loam and 2 parts sand or perlite. During warm months when plants are actively growing, keep the soil moist. Plants tolerate drier conditions but won’t be as leafy. During winter dormancy, give enough water to keep the stem from wrinkling. Rose Cactus seems to need winter dormancy for flowering the next season. Plants grow in full sun or filtered shade. For overwintering indoors, provide plants with bright light. Prune plants to keep them to the desired size.
Propagation
Grow Rose Cactus from seeds or from cuttings. Sow seeds in spring in a mix of half peat, half perlite, and keep the growing medium moist. Seeds germinate in 21 to 30 days. Take cuttings from young stems that have begun to harden. Don’t let the cuttings dry, but put them immediately into sand or the mix used for seeds. Put the cuttings in bright light rather than direct sunlight to root. Rose Cactus is often used as rootstock for grafting slower-growing succulent cactus because of its vigorous growth.
Plant Description
Most Pereskias have woody, upright growth, but some scramble in a vine-like manner, using hooked spines to support themselves. Spines emerge from wooly hairs where the leaf joins the stem. Flowers are followed by fleshy yellow or orange fruits that attract birds. Species of Rose Cactus vary in how tall they are and how vigorously they grow. The Wax Rose Cactus (Pereskia grandifolia), native to Brazil, has pink flowers and grows 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) tall. Another commonly grown species with fragrant white, pink or yellow flowers is sometimes called Lemon Vine (Pereskia aculeata). It has a clambering growth habit. Rose Cacti grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, where you can trellis them or keep them pruned back as a shorter shrubby plant. In USDA zones below 10, grow Rose Cactus as a container plant that you can move indoors in winter.
Relationship to Other Cacti
Rose Cactus is regarded as a primitive cactus that gives some idea of what the ancestors of succulent leafless cacti might look like. The stems and leaves store water to some degree, and spine patterns are similar. They possess most of the water-use adaptations that allow succulent leafless cacti to succeed. Rose Cactus has shallow root systems to allow quick water uptake, they slow water loss by closing their breathing holes called stomata and are capable of using crassulacean acid metabolism during hot, dry conditions. These adaptations allow their use in drought-tolerant and xeriscape gardens, giving the lush appearance of large green leaves even under tough conditions.
Cultivation
Use a rich, well-drained soil for Rose Cactus. The University of Oklahoma recommends a mix of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part loam and 2 parts sand or perlite. During warm months when plants are actively growing, keep the soil moist. Plants tolerate drier conditions but won’t be as leafy. During winter dormancy, give enough water to keep the stem from wrinkling. Rose Cactus seems to need winter dormancy for flowering the next season. Plants grow in full sun or filtered shade. For overwintering indoors, provide plants with bright light. Prune plants to keep them to the desired size.
Propagation
Grow Rose Cactus from seeds or from cuttings. Sow seeds in spring in a mix of half peat, half perlite, and keep the growing medium moist. Seeds germinate in 21 to 30 days. Take cuttings from young stems that have begun to harden. Don’t let the cuttings dry, but put them immediately into sand or the mix used for seeds. Put the cuttings in bright light rather than direct sunlight to root. Rose Cactus is often used as rootstock for grafting slower-growing succulent cactus because of its vigorous growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) sports a medium-green, furrowed trunk with gray spikes. Saguaro Cacti grow very slowly and have a mature height of up to 50 feet (15 m). These cacti make a bold statement in the landscape with their stiff arms and coarse texture. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness plant zones 9 and 10, Saguaro Cacti require full sunlight and extremely fast-draining soil. Planting a young nursery-grown specimen, 3 feet (90 cm) or less in height, is the best way to introduce one of these succulents into your yard. Raising a Saguaro Cactus is extremely easy, as they requiring only infrequent supplemental watering after planting.
1. Dig a hole with a shovel in the southernmost portion of your landscape for the Saguaro Cactus. Fashion the hole twice as wide and equal in depth to the plant’s root ball. Remove any rocks from the hole and displaced soil.
2. Wear heavy gloves when handling the Saguaro Cactus to avoid injury. Look for markings on the pot that indicate which side of the plant was previously growing facing the south. Remove the cactus carefully from its pot.
3. Place the plant in the center of the hole, positioning its southern side facing the southern exposure in your landscape. Add or remove soil from the hole’s bottom as needed to ensure that the root ball’s top is level with the surrounding ground. Fill the hole with soil, tamping it down periodically around the roots. Do not plant the cactus deeper than it was previously growing.
4. Flood the area with water from a garden hose immediately after planting. Water the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Wait for the water to drain down through the soil. Fill in any resulting depressions in the planting area with additional soil if needed.
5. Cover the Saguaro with a 50 percent shade cloth to protect its flesh from burning in the sun while the plant establishes new roots. Remove the shade cloth after one year of growth.
6. Water the Saguaro Cactus once every four weeks only if rainfall is absent during that time. Do not allow the soil to become soggy by watering too frequently, as this will cause the roots to rot. Never water the soil if it is damp to the touch.
1. Dig a hole with a shovel in the southernmost portion of your landscape for the Saguaro Cactus. Fashion the hole twice as wide and equal in depth to the plant’s root ball. Remove any rocks from the hole and displaced soil.
2. Wear heavy gloves when handling the Saguaro Cactus to avoid injury. Look for markings on the pot that indicate which side of the plant was previously growing facing the south. Remove the cactus carefully from its pot.
3. Place the plant in the center of the hole, positioning its southern side facing the southern exposure in your landscape. Add or remove soil from the hole’s bottom as needed to ensure that the root ball’s top is level with the surrounding ground. Fill the hole with soil, tamping it down periodically around the roots. Do not plant the cactus deeper than it was previously growing.
4. Flood the area with water from a garden hose immediately after planting. Water the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Wait for the water to drain down through the soil. Fill in any resulting depressions in the planting area with additional soil if needed.
5. Cover the Saguaro with a 50 percent shade cloth to protect its flesh from burning in the sun while the plant establishes new roots. Remove the shade cloth after one year of growth.
6. Water the Saguaro Cactus once every four weeks only if rainfall is absent during that time. Do not allow the soil to become soggy by watering too frequently, as this will cause the roots to rot. Never water the soil if it is damp to the touch.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The Christmas Cactus, no other plant seems to be equal, for its odd beauty or for the number of questions from frustrated owners about its care and culture. Stand beside a plant in full flower and just listen to the comments. Every other question concerns this pink-flowered tropical cactus from Brazil.
“Why doesn’t it bloom?”
“It flowered last year but not this year. Why?”
“How much water should I give it?”
“It rots at the base. Why?”
Question after question about Schlumbergera bridgesii (formerly Zyyocactus truncatus). And with good reason. The Christmas Cactus is confusing. Even botanists don’t always agree, except on where it originates — Brazil. There it is an air plant, growing on trees. Here, in North America, it has become a pot plant capable of a lively existence in the home or greenhouse.
Prized For Its Flowers
Its pendent, Fuchsia-like flowers, brilliant cerise pink with gold stamens against a background of odd, crablike jointed deep green foliage is as exotic as its orchid neighbors in the tropical forests of Brazil. It blooms for about two months at a time of year when good flowering plants are at a premium. As soon as the first flowers fade, more open. Mature plants can produce hundreds of flowers.
Its life span is measured in decades. I know of two that are over 20 years old, and have heard of one that is 32. This is not even close to the record.
Moisture… A Relative Term
Being tropical jungle plants, they need more moisture and shade than most other cacti. But the term “more moisture” is relative. The soil should be moist but not too much so. Be sure there are broken clay pot pieces, pebbles or charcoal at the bottom of the pot for drainage.
Never set the plant in a saucer of water. Too much water causes the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out occasionally well down into the pot to prevent the soil from going sour.
Soil and Potting
The soil itself should be a little richer than that used for other cacti, but since the plant likes a slightly acid soil, avoid lime or bone meal. A mixture of two parts good cactus potting mix, one part coarse builder’s sand and one part peat moss is excellent.
Use a pot not much larger than the diameter of the plant (a 2-inch (5 cm) plant in a 3-inch (7.5 cm) pot). Put in a handful of soil. Set in the plant, spreading the roots.
Now fill the pot to within a half-inch of the rim and press the soil down firmly with the fingers. Place the plant in a bright place away from direct noonday sun and drafts. Try to make this spot almost permanent, as the Christmas Cactus does not like to be moved about. Choose an east or west window as the best location for the plant. A south window with some shading is next best.
Thrives on Neglect
The number of questions asked about Christmas Cactus is more amazing considering that the plant thrives on neglect. Weeks without water won’t harm it. In fact, too much care is dangerous to the plant.
Late spring is the best time for repotting, should that be needed. Transfer the plant into a pot that is one size larger than what it is in now. Then set it in the shade outdoors for the summer.
New leaf growth starts in the spring. When it does you can start fertilizing it about every two weeks with a good liquid fertilizer, following directions on the package.
Time For a Nap
In early fall when nights start to get cool, bring the plant inside and give it a 30-day nap. Place it in a cool, dim location and do not water it for about a month. Then gradually expose it to full sunlight and increase the water supply over what it had when it was outside.
Like Chrysanthemums and Poinsettias, the Christmas Cactus is a short day plant. As the days get shorter its buds are formed. This is when most of the mistakes are made that delay its blooming or stop it altogether.
Avoid Strong Artificial Light
Strong artificial light on it at night will retard the bloom. if you must turn on the lights where the plant is, cover it with a double sheet of newspaper, sheet or towel. Watering at this time, when the buds are formed, is decreased. If the plant receives no artificial light from sundown to sunup, it will justify its name by blooming approximately at Christmas.
Can Be Grafted
The plant is tough and adaptable. It can be grown on its own roots, or those who are technically inclined can graft it on Pereskia or Opuntia and make standards out of it.
Careless handling sometimes causes the crablike joints to break. Lay the pieces aside in a dry shady spot until the raw ends harden into a callus. Then plant them in soil or sand. There is little danger of the cuttings starting to rot.
The pagoda-like flowers will brighten up the dull winter months as a special reward for the small care the plant requires.
“Why doesn’t it bloom?”
“It flowered last year but not this year. Why?”
“How much water should I give it?”
“It rots at the base. Why?”
Question after question about Schlumbergera bridgesii (formerly Zyyocactus truncatus). And with good reason. The Christmas Cactus is confusing. Even botanists don’t always agree, except on where it originates — Brazil. There it is an air plant, growing on trees. Here, in North America, it has become a pot plant capable of a lively existence in the home or greenhouse.
Prized For Its Flowers
Its pendent, Fuchsia-like flowers, brilliant cerise pink with gold stamens against a background of odd, crablike jointed deep green foliage is as exotic as its orchid neighbors in the tropical forests of Brazil. It blooms for about two months at a time of year when good flowering plants are at a premium. As soon as the first flowers fade, more open. Mature plants can produce hundreds of flowers.
Its life span is measured in decades. I know of two that are over 20 years old, and have heard of one that is 32. This is not even close to the record.
Moisture… A Relative Term
Being tropical jungle plants, they need more moisture and shade than most other cacti. But the term “more moisture” is relative. The soil should be moist but not too much so. Be sure there are broken clay pot pieces, pebbles or charcoal at the bottom of the pot for drainage.
Never set the plant in a saucer of water. Too much water causes the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out occasionally well down into the pot to prevent the soil from going sour.
Soil and Potting
The soil itself should be a little richer than that used for other cacti, but since the plant likes a slightly acid soil, avoid lime or bone meal. A mixture of two parts good cactus potting mix, one part coarse builder’s sand and one part peat moss is excellent.
Use a pot not much larger than the diameter of the plant (a 2-inch (5 cm) plant in a 3-inch (7.5 cm) pot). Put in a handful of soil. Set in the plant, spreading the roots.
Now fill the pot to within a half-inch of the rim and press the soil down firmly with the fingers. Place the plant in a bright place away from direct noonday sun and drafts. Try to make this spot almost permanent, as the Christmas Cactus does not like to be moved about. Choose an east or west window as the best location for the plant. A south window with some shading is next best.
Thrives on Neglect
The number of questions asked about Christmas Cactus is more amazing considering that the plant thrives on neglect. Weeks without water won’t harm it. In fact, too much care is dangerous to the plant.
Late spring is the best time for repotting, should that be needed. Transfer the plant into a pot that is one size larger than what it is in now. Then set it in the shade outdoors for the summer.
New leaf growth starts in the spring. When it does you can start fertilizing it about every two weeks with a good liquid fertilizer, following directions on the package.
Time For a Nap
In early fall when nights start to get cool, bring the plant inside and give it a 30-day nap. Place it in a cool, dim location and do not water it for about a month. Then gradually expose it to full sunlight and increase the water supply over what it had when it was outside.
Like Chrysanthemums and Poinsettias, the Christmas Cactus is a short day plant. As the days get shorter its buds are formed. This is when most of the mistakes are made that delay its blooming or stop it altogether.
Avoid Strong Artificial Light
Strong artificial light on it at night will retard the bloom. if you must turn on the lights where the plant is, cover it with a double sheet of newspaper, sheet or towel. Watering at this time, when the buds are formed, is decreased. If the plant receives no artificial light from sundown to sunup, it will justify its name by blooming approximately at Christmas.
Can Be Grafted
The plant is tough and adaptable. It can be grown on its own roots, or those who are technically inclined can graft it on Pereskia or Opuntia and make standards out of it.
Careless handling sometimes causes the crablike joints to break. Lay the pieces aside in a dry shady spot until the raw ends harden into a callus. Then plant them in soil or sand. There is little danger of the cuttings starting to rot.
The pagoda-like flowers will brighten up the dull winter months as a special reward for the small care the plant requires.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Frailea perform best in full sun but be cautious about placing them too close to a southern window where the flesh can burn. The tone of the cactus is darkest when it enjoys a full day of sunlight.
This is a short lived plant that rarely exceeds 15 years before it dies back. Here’s a fun bit of Frailea information. If plants are growing where no water is available, they have the interesting ability to hide in the soil. Don’t be shocked if your plant seems to have disappeared, as it is simply retracted under the soil just as it would do in the dry season in its native region. Once sufficient moisture is available, the plant swells and is again visible on the top of the soil.
Caring for Frailea is a balancing act between sufficient moisture but periods of soil drying, so water is the biggest challenge in Frailea cactus care. Choose water that is free from heavy minerals. Water well once per week in summer, but in spring and autumn water only once every 3 weeks or when the soil is quite dry to the touch. The plant experiences no growth in winter and does not need water.
Once per month during the growing season use diluted cactus food. In summer, you can bring your indoor specimens outside but be careful to bring them back indoors before any cold temperatures threaten.
Repot every few years with a good gritty succulent soil. Plants rarely need a larger pot and are quite content to be crowded. If you spot a seed pod, crack it open, sow seed in a flat with cactus mix and keep moderately moist in a sunny location.
This is a short lived plant that rarely exceeds 15 years before it dies back. Here’s a fun bit of Frailea information. If plants are growing where no water is available, they have the interesting ability to hide in the soil. Don’t be shocked if your plant seems to have disappeared, as it is simply retracted under the soil just as it would do in the dry season in its native region. Once sufficient moisture is available, the plant swells and is again visible on the top of the soil.
Caring for Frailea is a balancing act between sufficient moisture but periods of soil drying, so water is the biggest challenge in Frailea cactus care. Choose water that is free from heavy minerals. Water well once per week in summer, but in spring and autumn water only once every 3 weeks or when the soil is quite dry to the touch. The plant experiences no growth in winter and does not need water.
Once per month during the growing season use diluted cactus food. In summer, you can bring your indoor specimens outside but be careful to bring them back indoors before any cold temperatures threaten.
Repot every few years with a good gritty succulent soil. Plants rarely need a larger pot and are quite content to be crowded. If you spot a seed pod, crack it open, sow seed in a flat with cactus mix and keep moderately moist in a sunny location.
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