文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月21日
El peyotillo o piote, Pelecyphora aselliformis, es un cactus de pequeño tamaño y muy decorativo. Se caracteriza por sus tallos al principio cilíndricos y después esféricos de hasta 10 cm de altura y 5 cm de diámetro. Los tubérculos son aplanados y alargados, sobresalen unos 5 mm y se distribuyen en espiral.
Es un cactus oriundo de México y de crecimiento muy lento. Sus flores van del rosa al morado y tienen un diámetro de unos 3,5 cm. Para que aparezcan la planta debe vivir un periodo de hibernación y hay que suspenderles el riego. Cuando se riega los tubérculos aumentan de tamaño para permitir una mayor acumulación de agua. Las flores aparecen en las axilas de los tubérculos aparecidos durante la temporada anterior. No debemos permitir el exceso de humedad. Debemos añadir fertilizante en la época de crecimiento.
En verano es la mejor época para cambiar el cactus de maceta si es preciso. Para ello será preciso esperar a que el sustrato esté bien seco. Saldrá fácilmente de la vieja maceta y deberemos inspeccionar las raíces para retirar las que presenten mal aspecto. Trataremos los cortes con algún fungicida. Colocamos el cactus en la nueva maceta y rellenamos con sustrato nuevo. No regaremos hasta que transcurra una semana del trasplante. Reanudaremos los riegos progresivamente para proteger a las raíces de los hongos.
Usaremos sustrato especial para cactus o una mezcla propia que cuente con el material necesario para asegurar un buen drenaje. Sólo regaremos cuando el sustrato esté bien seco. No hay que preocuparse demasiado por el riego pues tolera bien la sequía.
Es un cactus oriundo de México y de crecimiento muy lento. Sus flores van del rosa al morado y tienen un diámetro de unos 3,5 cm. Para que aparezcan la planta debe vivir un periodo de hibernación y hay que suspenderles el riego. Cuando se riega los tubérculos aumentan de tamaño para permitir una mayor acumulación de agua. Las flores aparecen en las axilas de los tubérculos aparecidos durante la temporada anterior. No debemos permitir el exceso de humedad. Debemos añadir fertilizante en la época de crecimiento.
En verano es la mejor época para cambiar el cactus de maceta si es preciso. Para ello será preciso esperar a que el sustrato esté bien seco. Saldrá fácilmente de la vieja maceta y deberemos inspeccionar las raíces para retirar las que presenten mal aspecto. Trataremos los cortes con algún fungicida. Colocamos el cactus en la nueva maceta y rellenamos con sustrato nuevo. No regaremos hasta que transcurra una semana del trasplante. Reanudaremos los riegos progresivamente para proteger a las raíces de los hongos.
Usaremos sustrato especial para cactus o una mezcla propia que cuente con el material necesario para asegurar un buen drenaje. Sólo regaremos cuando el sustrato esté bien seco. No hay que preocuparse demasiado por el riego pues tolera bien la sequía.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
If you’re lucky, you could receive a Christmas Cactus as a gift this holiday season. This common house plant blooms during the Christmas season, but its long green arms are attractive throughout the year. With cultivars in a rainbow of colors, it is a plant worthy of appreciation. These 10 facts about Christmas Cacti will help you to care for your plant if you happen to receive one this holiday season.
1. It’s called a “cactus”, but it thrives in cooler temperatures. Christmas Cacti need to be kept away from heat sources. According to the Purdue University Extension Service, a Christmas Cactus will blossom longer when exposed to only cooler temperatures. For best results, keep your Christmas Cactus in a cool place (away from heaters and fireplaces) where there are not frequent drafts (right next to a frequently used door would not be a good place). Big changes in temperature can cause the blooms to drop off the plant before they open. The optimal temperature for Christmas Cacti is 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius).
2. Christmas Cacti need light to bloom. According to Purdue University Extension Service, keeping your Christmas Cactus plants in a sunny location indoors is the key to prolonged blooms. However, if you move them outside during the summer, you’ll have the most success in a partially shaded location, as too much direct light can burn the leaves.
3. The Christmas Cactus is native to Brazil. These epiphytes (a plant that grows on top of another plant non-parasitically) grow in the Brazilian rain forest, among tree branches, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension. Since they are tropical plants, they thrive in humid conditions.
4. Christmas Cacti need their beauty sleep. The horticulture experts at the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens recommend setting your Christmas Cactus in a room where you never turn the lights on at night. In order for the flower buds to set, Christmas Cacti need 14 hours or more of continuous darkness per day. However, after the flower buds have set, Christmas Cacti can withstand lights on at night.
5. Unlike the other Christmas favorite, Poinsettia, Christmas Cactus is not toxic to dogs and cats. Poinsettia is famously poisonous to dogs and cats. However, according to the ASPCA, if Fido or Fluffy nibbles on a Christmas Cactus, she should not experience irritation or vomiting like she would from the sap of the Poinsettia.
6. Christmas Cactus can live for 20 to 30 years. Can you imagine passing a living, flowering plant on to your children or grandchildren? According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, when properly cared for, Christmas Cacti can live for 20 to 30 years. If you provide long nights starting around October 1st, you can force the Christmas Cactus to bloom year after year. Cool night temperatures can also encourage it to bloom.
7. Overwatering will kill Christmas Cacti, but they like to be misted on a daily basis. A horticulturist at the Oregon State University Extension Service recommend only adding water to the soil that a Christmas Cactus is planted in when the soil is dry to the touch. Instead, gardening expert and radio host Walter Reeves, the Georgia Gardener, suggests misting the leaves of the Christmas Cactus to maintain the desired level of humidity around the plant.
8. 5 diseases commonly infect Christmas Cactus. Penn State University Extension experts provide a handy fact sheet that outlines the plant diseases that most often affect Christmas Cacti. Their list includes: Basal stem rot, botrytis blight, impatiens necrotic spot virus, phytophthora root rot, and pythium root rot.
9. Fungus gnats, flower thrips, and root mealybugs are the pests that most often infest Christmas Cacti. The University of Massachusetts-Amherst Extension Service recommends preventative measures. The biggest culprit in attracting pests to Christmas Cacti seems to be overwatering. Preventative care, such as discarding infested plants, is another recommended tactic. Pesticides are available for commercial growers, although home-growers may not be able to get their hands on those pesticides.
10. By the way, that Christmas Cactus you are buying is probably not actually a Christmas cactus. Surprise! According to the U-Mass Extension Service, “Holiday Cactus is sometimes marketed as Christmas Cactus, Thanksgiving Cactus, or Zygocactus. The “true” Christmas Cactus is an interspecific hybrid of Schlumbergera truncata and Schlumbergera russelliana that originated about 150 years ago in England. It is a common houseplant but is not often grown commercially. Plants have segments with rounded margins, ribbed ovaries, and purplish-brown anthers. The correct latin name for Christmas Cactus is Schlumbergera x buckleyi; the “x” indicates that it is an interspecific hybrid. Most commercial cultivars of Holiday Cactus are actually Schlumbergera truncata, commonly known as Thanksgiving Cactus or Zygocactus.”
1. It’s called a “cactus”, but it thrives in cooler temperatures. Christmas Cacti need to be kept away from heat sources. According to the Purdue University Extension Service, a Christmas Cactus will blossom longer when exposed to only cooler temperatures. For best results, keep your Christmas Cactus in a cool place (away from heaters and fireplaces) where there are not frequent drafts (right next to a frequently used door would not be a good place). Big changes in temperature can cause the blooms to drop off the plant before they open. The optimal temperature for Christmas Cacti is 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius).
2. Christmas Cacti need light to bloom. According to Purdue University Extension Service, keeping your Christmas Cactus plants in a sunny location indoors is the key to prolonged blooms. However, if you move them outside during the summer, you’ll have the most success in a partially shaded location, as too much direct light can burn the leaves.
3. The Christmas Cactus is native to Brazil. These epiphytes (a plant that grows on top of another plant non-parasitically) grow in the Brazilian rain forest, among tree branches, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension. Since they are tropical plants, they thrive in humid conditions.
4. Christmas Cacti need their beauty sleep. The horticulture experts at the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens recommend setting your Christmas Cactus in a room where you never turn the lights on at night. In order for the flower buds to set, Christmas Cacti need 14 hours or more of continuous darkness per day. However, after the flower buds have set, Christmas Cacti can withstand lights on at night.
5. Unlike the other Christmas favorite, Poinsettia, Christmas Cactus is not toxic to dogs and cats. Poinsettia is famously poisonous to dogs and cats. However, according to the ASPCA, if Fido or Fluffy nibbles on a Christmas Cactus, she should not experience irritation or vomiting like she would from the sap of the Poinsettia.
6. Christmas Cactus can live for 20 to 30 years. Can you imagine passing a living, flowering plant on to your children or grandchildren? According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, when properly cared for, Christmas Cacti can live for 20 to 30 years. If you provide long nights starting around October 1st, you can force the Christmas Cactus to bloom year after year. Cool night temperatures can also encourage it to bloom.
7. Overwatering will kill Christmas Cacti, but they like to be misted on a daily basis. A horticulturist at the Oregon State University Extension Service recommend only adding water to the soil that a Christmas Cactus is planted in when the soil is dry to the touch. Instead, gardening expert and radio host Walter Reeves, the Georgia Gardener, suggests misting the leaves of the Christmas Cactus to maintain the desired level of humidity around the plant.
8. 5 diseases commonly infect Christmas Cactus. Penn State University Extension experts provide a handy fact sheet that outlines the plant diseases that most often affect Christmas Cacti. Their list includes: Basal stem rot, botrytis blight, impatiens necrotic spot virus, phytophthora root rot, and pythium root rot.
9. Fungus gnats, flower thrips, and root mealybugs are the pests that most often infest Christmas Cacti. The University of Massachusetts-Amherst Extension Service recommends preventative measures. The biggest culprit in attracting pests to Christmas Cacti seems to be overwatering. Preventative care, such as discarding infested plants, is another recommended tactic. Pesticides are available for commercial growers, although home-growers may not be able to get their hands on those pesticides.
10. By the way, that Christmas Cactus you are buying is probably not actually a Christmas cactus. Surprise! According to the U-Mass Extension Service, “Holiday Cactus is sometimes marketed as Christmas Cactus, Thanksgiving Cactus, or Zygocactus. The “true” Christmas Cactus is an interspecific hybrid of Schlumbergera truncata and Schlumbergera russelliana that originated about 150 years ago in England. It is a common houseplant but is not often grown commercially. Plants have segments with rounded margins, ribbed ovaries, and purplish-brown anthers. The correct latin name for Christmas Cactus is Schlumbergera x buckleyi; the “x” indicates that it is an interspecific hybrid. Most commercial cultivars of Holiday Cactus are actually Schlumbergera truncata, commonly known as Thanksgiving Cactus or Zygocactus.”
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The genus Echinocactus (Barrel Cactus) includes about six species of barrel cacti that are native to Mexico and the southeastern United States. These are true desert plants that cannot handle any humidity or standing water to grow. The most common among these plants are almost perfectly round when juvenile, so therefore make excellent display plants. They are also highly attractive with their rows of spines of their deeply ribbed lobes.
As they grow, it’s not uncommon for them to stretch out so they look more like ovals than circles. As with most cacti, the secret to their successful growth indoors is nearly perfect drainage, as opposed to letting them dry out.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Barrel Cactus do best in a very sunny window, perhaps a southern exposure. Plants that do not get enough sunlight will grow more slowly and fail to thrive.
Water: Water infrequently and ensure that the soil drains completely. Do not leave any water sitting in the tray or allow them to sit in water. They are very prone to root rot.
Soil: A cactus soil mix is ideal. If you use a reagular peat-based mix, be sure to add sand or extra perlite to enhance drainage and repot the plant when the soil begins to break down..
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid cactus fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Barrel Cactus are typically propagated by seed. Mature cactus will bloom in the summer with flowers that grow in whorls around the top of the plant.
To seed a cactus, plant the seeds shallowly in a cactus mix and keep them warm and very slightly moist.
Repotting
It’s best to repot in the beginning of the growing season, or summer. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Overall, these are very attractive cacti for dish gardens or indoor display. A collection of them is especially attractive, as they look like a collection of balls tossed upon the ground. It’s critical, however, to never let these cactus be exposed to prolonged periods in water, or even very high humidity. They will suffer from rot in the presence of humidity. Echinocactus are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
As they grow, it’s not uncommon for them to stretch out so they look more like ovals than circles. As with most cacti, the secret to their successful growth indoors is nearly perfect drainage, as opposed to letting them dry out.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Barrel Cactus do best in a very sunny window, perhaps a southern exposure. Plants that do not get enough sunlight will grow more slowly and fail to thrive.
Water: Water infrequently and ensure that the soil drains completely. Do not leave any water sitting in the tray or allow them to sit in water. They are very prone to root rot.
Soil: A cactus soil mix is ideal. If you use a reagular peat-based mix, be sure to add sand or extra perlite to enhance drainage and repot the plant when the soil begins to break down..
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid cactus fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Barrel Cactus are typically propagated by seed. Mature cactus will bloom in the summer with flowers that grow in whorls around the top of the plant.
To seed a cactus, plant the seeds shallowly in a cactus mix and keep them warm and very slightly moist.
Repotting
It’s best to repot in the beginning of the growing season, or summer. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Overall, these are very attractive cacti for dish gardens or indoor display. A collection of them is especially attractive, as they look like a collection of balls tossed upon the ground. It’s critical, however, to never let these cactus be exposed to prolonged periods in water, or even very high humidity. They will suffer from rot in the presence of humidity. Echinocactus are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The Echinocereus is closely related to the popular Echinocactus. Mostly native to the southern United States and Mexico, there are about 75 species of this pretty little cactus, a few of which sometimes find their way into garden centers. To further confuse you, they are often called Hedgehog Cactus, a name that is sometimes applied to other squat, globular cacti not in the Echinocereus genus, such as the Echinopsis.
Among cactus growers, Echinocereus are known for being a bit easier than some of their fussier cousins. Some members of this genus can be found far to the north, growing in quite cold areas. In terms of their presentation, Echninocereus have a very wide range of shapes and sizes, ranging from small balls with spines to thin columns. Like other cacti, the Echinocereus have beautiful flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: Echinocereus need bright light to perform their best. If you can provide nearly full sun, as in a western window, they will appreciate it. Plants that are grown in dim conditions are unlikely to flower well and will not thrive. Although these are cold tolerant, most of the popular species need relatively warm temperatures to grow their best.
Water: Good drainage is essential for health. During the summer, water the cactus every two weeks or slightly less often, depending on how moist the soil remains. In the winter rest period, cut watering back to once a month, or in humid areas, not at all.
Fertilizer: During the summer, regular doses of a cactus fertilizer will help it grow its best. Use diluted fertilizer for best results.
Soil: A typical cactus mix is perfect. Some references say these plants can handle a slightly richer soil than other types of cactus, but it’s never a bad idea to err on the side of caution.
Propagation
Echinocereus can be propagated either through offsets or by seed. To take an offset, remove the small plantlet, then let dry until a callous forms on the cut. Carefully plant the cutting in a cactus soil and keep warm and just barely moist under new growth emerges. These plants can also be reproduced from seed. Plant the seeds in a shallow mix and keep them warm and slightly damp. Germination takes place in about two weeks.
Repotting
Echinocereus are slow growing cactus that should only need repotting every other year or so. You can prolong the time to repotting by removing plantlets and potting them up in their own pots. When repotting a cactus, carefully remove it from its pot and knock away any clumped soil. These plants tend to be shallow-rooted with weak root systems, so take care not to damage their roots.
Grower’s Tips
If you can successfully grow other globular cactus, you can most likely grow Echinocereus well. One of the key factors in success with these is avoiding any hint of wet soil. Because their root systems are weak, they are especially prone to root rot, which will eventually kill your plant. Otherwise, they thrive on a program of strong, bright light; slight water; and a steady diet of light fertilizer. Echinocereus is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
Among cactus growers, Echinocereus are known for being a bit easier than some of their fussier cousins. Some members of this genus can be found far to the north, growing in quite cold areas. In terms of their presentation, Echninocereus have a very wide range of shapes and sizes, ranging from small balls with spines to thin columns. Like other cacti, the Echinocereus have beautiful flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: Echinocereus need bright light to perform their best. If you can provide nearly full sun, as in a western window, they will appreciate it. Plants that are grown in dim conditions are unlikely to flower well and will not thrive. Although these are cold tolerant, most of the popular species need relatively warm temperatures to grow their best.
Water: Good drainage is essential for health. During the summer, water the cactus every two weeks or slightly less often, depending on how moist the soil remains. In the winter rest period, cut watering back to once a month, or in humid areas, not at all.
Fertilizer: During the summer, regular doses of a cactus fertilizer will help it grow its best. Use diluted fertilizer for best results.
Soil: A typical cactus mix is perfect. Some references say these plants can handle a slightly richer soil than other types of cactus, but it’s never a bad idea to err on the side of caution.
Propagation
Echinocereus can be propagated either through offsets or by seed. To take an offset, remove the small plantlet, then let dry until a callous forms on the cut. Carefully plant the cutting in a cactus soil and keep warm and just barely moist under new growth emerges. These plants can also be reproduced from seed. Plant the seeds in a shallow mix and keep them warm and slightly damp. Germination takes place in about two weeks.
Repotting
Echinocereus are slow growing cactus that should only need repotting every other year or so. You can prolong the time to repotting by removing plantlets and potting them up in their own pots. When repotting a cactus, carefully remove it from its pot and knock away any clumped soil. These plants tend to be shallow-rooted with weak root systems, so take care not to damage their roots.
Grower’s Tips
If you can successfully grow other globular cactus, you can most likely grow Echinocereus well. One of the key factors in success with these is avoiding any hint of wet soil. Because their root systems are weak, they are especially prone to root rot, which will eventually kill your plant. Otherwise, they thrive on a program of strong, bright light; slight water; and a steady diet of light fertilizer. Echinocereus is vulnerable to mealybugs and aphids.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Ferocactus, commonly called Barrel Cactus, lives anywhere from 50 to 130 years. It begins with a globular shape when young and eventually becomes more cylindrical, slowly reaching anywhere from 2 to 10 feet tall and 1.5 to 3 feet wide, depending on the species. Native to the American Southwest and Mexico, barrel cactus produces long thorns along its many ribs and bright 3-inch, cup-shaped blossoms in yellow and orange from mid-spring into summer. It grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10.
Growing Conditions
Light: Choose a planting location that receives direct sun during all or most of the day. Because Ferocactus eventually leans into the sun instead of growing precisely upright and because it has extremely sharp thorns, place it where people will not brush into it accidentally.
Soil: Plant your cactus in early spring before new roots begin to form in late June and early July. The roots may appear dry, but that is typical before new growth begins. Dig a hole deep enough for the plant’s roots and amend it as needed to provide fast-draining soil. A good soil mixture includes 10 percent native soil, 45 percent washed sand or pumice and 45 percent compost. Ferocactus thrives in poor and arid soil.
Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Water again only if the weather in your area is unseasonably dry and if normal spring or winter rainfall doesn’t occur.
General Care
Water after it is established only during unseasonable drought conditions. Otherwise, rainfall provides the only irrigation necessary. In fact, Ferocactus needs a dormant period with dry soil during the winter.
Drape Ferocactus with burlap or other fabric if a heavy frost is predicted in your area, as it is sensitive and could be damaged by cold temperatures.
Mulch your cactus with decomposed granite or small pebbles for decorative purposes to mimic the plant’s native habitat. Ferocactus is naturally fire-resistance and mulching with stone increases the fire-resistance of your entire landscape.
Tip
Ferocactus thrives with no fertilizer.
Warning
Like all succulents, Ferocactus will die if overwatered.
Growing Conditions
Light: Choose a planting location that receives direct sun during all or most of the day. Because Ferocactus eventually leans into the sun instead of growing precisely upright and because it has extremely sharp thorns, place it where people will not brush into it accidentally.
Soil: Plant your cactus in early spring before new roots begin to form in late June and early July. The roots may appear dry, but that is typical before new growth begins. Dig a hole deep enough for the plant’s roots and amend it as needed to provide fast-draining soil. A good soil mixture includes 10 percent native soil, 45 percent washed sand or pumice and 45 percent compost. Ferocactus thrives in poor and arid soil.
Water the cactus at the time of planting to anchor it into the soil. Water again only if the weather in your area is unseasonably dry and if normal spring or winter rainfall doesn’t occur.
General Care
Water after it is established only during unseasonable drought conditions. Otherwise, rainfall provides the only irrigation necessary. In fact, Ferocactus needs a dormant period with dry soil during the winter.
Drape Ferocactus with burlap or other fabric if a heavy frost is predicted in your area, as it is sensitive and could be damaged by cold temperatures.
Mulch your cactus with decomposed granite or small pebbles for decorative purposes to mimic the plant’s native habitat. Ferocactus is naturally fire-resistance and mulching with stone increases the fire-resistance of your entire landscape.
Tip
Ferocactus thrives with no fertilizer.
Warning
Like all succulents, Ferocactus will die if overwatered.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The Echinopsis genus of cacti includes dozens of species from South America. This group includes large columnar cactus that were formerly in the genus Trichocerceus, as well as the smaller day-flowering species that were previously classified in the Lobivia genus. The large columnar cactus are beautiful, but they are generally far too large for indoor cultivation, so only the smaller day-flowering species are grown indoors and are now classified in the Echinopsis genus.
These are generally small, round cacti with sharp spines and very colorful flowers. Extensive hybridizing has been done over the years to produce a variety of flower colors.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like many cacti and succulents, the Echnopsis appreciate strong light during the growing season. Move plants outdoors if possible, but acclimate to direct sunlight slowly to prevent scorching. In the winter, a southern exposure is perfect.
Water: Allow the soil mix to become nearly dry between waterings, but then water thoroughly. Immaculate drainage is essential, so never let the pots sit in water. Suspend watering in the winter, but mist occasionally. .
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Echinopsis can be easily rooted from offsets, which tend to cluster around the base of the mother plant.
Cut offsets close to the stem, at the narrowest possible place. When rooting cacti from cuttings, let the fresh cutting dry out slightly on a paper towel and cut the cacti at the narrowest place possible. After a few days to a few weeks, depending on the size of the cut surface, the cut surface should have dried out and formed a callous, or slightly rough opening. Once the callous has formed, place the cutting in a rooting mixture of fast-draining cacti soil. Keep the cutting barely moist and warm. New roots will form in a matter of weeks, either around the vascular bundles or the cut areoles near the cut. Once new roots are visible, pot the plant as a typical cacti and move it into your collection.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot. Be careful when handling Echinopsis as they have stiff spines.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the Echinopsis species without too much trouble. Like many cacti, they prefer a drying period between waterings, even to the point where they slightly wilt. When you water, however, you should water deeply. The plant will noticeably plump up. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
These are generally small, round cacti with sharp spines and very colorful flowers. Extensive hybridizing has been done over the years to produce a variety of flower colors.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like many cacti and succulents, the Echnopsis appreciate strong light during the growing season. Move plants outdoors if possible, but acclimate to direct sunlight slowly to prevent scorching. In the winter, a southern exposure is perfect.
Water: Allow the soil mix to become nearly dry between waterings, but then water thoroughly. Immaculate drainage is essential, so never let the pots sit in water. Suspend watering in the winter, but mist occasionally. .
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Echinopsis can be easily rooted from offsets, which tend to cluster around the base of the mother plant.
Cut offsets close to the stem, at the narrowest possible place. When rooting cacti from cuttings, let the fresh cutting dry out slightly on a paper towel and cut the cacti at the narrowest place possible. After a few days to a few weeks, depending on the size of the cut surface, the cut surface should have dried out and formed a callous, or slightly rough opening. Once the callous has formed, place the cutting in a rooting mixture of fast-draining cacti soil. Keep the cutting barely moist and warm. New roots will form in a matter of weeks, either around the vascular bundles or the cut areoles near the cut. Once new roots are visible, pot the plant as a typical cacti and move it into your collection.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot. Be careful when handling Echinopsis as they have stiff spines.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the Echinopsis species without too much trouble. Like many cacti, they prefer a drying period between waterings, even to the point where they slightly wilt. When you water, however, you should water deeply. The plant will noticeably plump up. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Lifesaver plants are actually not members of the cactus family, although the tubercles — warty protuberances — that line the stem ridges can resemble the fierce spines that protect cacti. Lifesaver plants belong to the genus Huernia, low-growing succulents that are native to deserts from Southern and East Africa to Arabia. The common name comes from the conspicuous raised brightly colored ring that surrounds the middle of the star-shaped flower and resembles a red Lifesaver candy. Not all Huernias have this feature.
General Cultivation
Lifesaver plants can be grown as intriguing indoor, greenhouse or summer patio container plants almost anywhere. Species such as Huernia zebrina, Huernia pillansii, Huernia keniensis and Huernia primulina can be grown in outdoor landscapes in warm-winter and Mediterranean climates. Protect outdoor plants from frost and rain during winter and full sun in summer. Plant enthusiasts worldwide grow Huernias because of their interesting stem shapes and colors and because of the often intricate and fascinating flower forms and colors.
Soil Conditions
Huernias require a potting mix with excellent drainage. A succulent plant mix of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25 percent sand helps prevent rotting and overwatering. Roots experience dieback in cool-season dormancy, so plants grow best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out quickly. Using clay pots further helps soil from staying too wet. An underlayment of coarse gravel below the soil mix also improves drainage. In climates with damp cool summers, a layer of gravel between the plant and the soil mix also helps prevent the stems from staying too moist. Outdoor plantings do well in raised beds.
Light and Temperature
Lifesaver plants prefer bright light or partial shade. In nature, they grow underneath shrubs or other plants. Too much sun causes stems to develop protective reddish or purple pigmentation and can actually scald the stems. Too little light leads to weak, thin growth with decreased flower production. Huernias grow best between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 27 degrees Celsius). Protect them from freezing weather. They can tolerate down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius) when dormant if they are kept dry and temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) if not in full sun.
Watering
Plants should be kept dry during the winter dormant season. When Huernias are actively growing, they need to be watered. Allow the soil to dry out one inch down the container between waterings. In regions with highly mineralized water, use rainwater or water from reverse osmosis units to prevent buildup of minerals in the soil.
Fertilizing
During the growing season, high-phosphorous, low nitrogen fertilizers can be applied at half-strength once a month. Alternatively, blood meal and bone meal can be mixed into potting soil in small amounts at the beginning of the growing season. No fertilizers should be given during the dormant season.
Pests
Mealybugs are the most serious threat to plant health. These insects suck the sap from the plant stems and roots and can seriously weaken or kill the lifesaver plants. Control the mealybugs with systemic insecticides. Examine plants weekly for signs of infestation and treat promptly. Keep plants from becoming too crowded so stems can be easily seen.
General Cultivation
Lifesaver plants can be grown as intriguing indoor, greenhouse or summer patio container plants almost anywhere. Species such as Huernia zebrina, Huernia pillansii, Huernia keniensis and Huernia primulina can be grown in outdoor landscapes in warm-winter and Mediterranean climates. Protect outdoor plants from frost and rain during winter and full sun in summer. Plant enthusiasts worldwide grow Huernias because of their interesting stem shapes and colors and because of the often intricate and fascinating flower forms and colors.
Soil Conditions
Huernias require a potting mix with excellent drainage. A succulent plant mix of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25 percent sand helps prevent rotting and overwatering. Roots experience dieback in cool-season dormancy, so plants grow best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out quickly. Using clay pots further helps soil from staying too wet. An underlayment of coarse gravel below the soil mix also improves drainage. In climates with damp cool summers, a layer of gravel between the plant and the soil mix also helps prevent the stems from staying too moist. Outdoor plantings do well in raised beds.
Light and Temperature
Lifesaver plants prefer bright light or partial shade. In nature, they grow underneath shrubs or other plants. Too much sun causes stems to develop protective reddish or purple pigmentation and can actually scald the stems. Too little light leads to weak, thin growth with decreased flower production. Huernias grow best between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 27 degrees Celsius). Protect them from freezing weather. They can tolerate down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius) when dormant if they are kept dry and temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) if not in full sun.
Watering
Plants should be kept dry during the winter dormant season. When Huernias are actively growing, they need to be watered. Allow the soil to dry out one inch down the container between waterings. In regions with highly mineralized water, use rainwater or water from reverse osmosis units to prevent buildup of minerals in the soil.
Fertilizing
During the growing season, high-phosphorous, low nitrogen fertilizers can be applied at half-strength once a month. Alternatively, blood meal and bone meal can be mixed into potting soil in small amounts at the beginning of the growing season. No fertilizers should be given during the dormant season.
Pests
Mealybugs are the most serious threat to plant health. These insects suck the sap from the plant stems and roots and can seriously weaken or kill the lifesaver plants. Control the mealybugs with systemic insecticides. Examine plants weekly for signs of infestation and treat promptly. Keep plants from becoming too crowded so stems can be easily seen.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
If you are looking for a houseplant with a lot of character and personality, consider growing Old Man Cactus (Cephalocereus senilis). While it isn’t wrinkly or on social security, the plant does have fluffy white tufts of hair over the surface of the cactus body. The appearance is reminiscent of senior citizen pates, lightly cushioned by sparse, long billowy hair. Learn how to grow an Old Man Cactus and bring the cute little plant with the fuzzy white hairdo into your home.
Growing Conditions
This cactus can go outside in USDA hardiness zones 9 and 10. Native to Mexico, they need hot, dry climates and bright sunlight. The long hair is used by the plant to keep itself cool in its natural habitat. As an outdoor plant, they can get 45 feet tall but are generally slow growing as potted plants.
Old Man Cacti are mostly grown as houseplants and stay small and easily kept in a container for their entire lives. Indoor cactus growing requires a southern- or western-facing window and temperatures of at least 65˚F. (18˚C). For best growth, give it a winter hibernation period in an area where temperatures are below 65˚F (18˚C).
Propagating
Old Man Cactus is easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. Seeds take a long time to grow into something recognizable as a cactus, but it is a cheap and fun project for children.
Cuttings need to lie out on the counter in a dry location for a couple of days to callus. Then insert the cut end with the dry, white callus into a soilless medium, such as sand or perlite. Keep the cutting in moderate, but not scalding, light where temperatures are at least 70˚F (21˚C) for best rooting. Don’t water until the little cutting has rooted. Then treat your new Old Man Cactus houseplants as you would a mature specimen.
General Care
Use a cactus mix or blend of sand, perlite and topsoil for indoor cactus growing. Also, use an unglazed pot for growing old man cactus. This will allow the pot to evaporate any excess moisture. Old Man Cactus houseplants like their soil on the dry side and overwatering is a common cause of rot and disease.
Allow the top couple of inches of soil dry out completely between waterings. In winter, reduce watering to once or twice during the season.
Fertilize with a cactus food in early spring and you might be rewarded with thick pink flowers. In the plant’s natural habitat it grows a 1 inch (2.5 cm) long fruit, but this is rare in captive cultivation.
Old Man Cactus needs a sunny, warm location but has few other needs. You should watch it carefully for pests, however, which can hide in the hair. These include mealybugs, scale, and flying pests.
Growing Conditions
This cactus can go outside in USDA hardiness zones 9 and 10. Native to Mexico, they need hot, dry climates and bright sunlight. The long hair is used by the plant to keep itself cool in its natural habitat. As an outdoor plant, they can get 45 feet tall but are generally slow growing as potted plants.
Old Man Cacti are mostly grown as houseplants and stay small and easily kept in a container for their entire lives. Indoor cactus growing requires a southern- or western-facing window and temperatures of at least 65˚F. (18˚C). For best growth, give it a winter hibernation period in an area where temperatures are below 65˚F (18˚C).
Propagating
Old Man Cactus is easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. Seeds take a long time to grow into something recognizable as a cactus, but it is a cheap and fun project for children.
Cuttings need to lie out on the counter in a dry location for a couple of days to callus. Then insert the cut end with the dry, white callus into a soilless medium, such as sand or perlite. Keep the cutting in moderate, but not scalding, light where temperatures are at least 70˚F (21˚C) for best rooting. Don’t water until the little cutting has rooted. Then treat your new Old Man Cactus houseplants as you would a mature specimen.
General Care
Use a cactus mix or blend of sand, perlite and topsoil for indoor cactus growing. Also, use an unglazed pot for growing old man cactus. This will allow the pot to evaporate any excess moisture. Old Man Cactus houseplants like their soil on the dry side and overwatering is a common cause of rot and disease.
Allow the top couple of inches of soil dry out completely between waterings. In winter, reduce watering to once or twice during the season.
Fertilize with a cactus food in early spring and you might be rewarded with thick pink flowers. In the plant’s natural habitat it grows a 1 inch (2.5 cm) long fruit, but this is rare in captive cultivation.
Old Man Cactus needs a sunny, warm location but has few other needs. You should watch it carefully for pests, however, which can hide in the hair. These include mealybugs, scale, and flying pests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Everyone knows what a cactus is, but they probably don’t know a lot about the history of a cactus and all the information as to the meaning of it. The word cactus was actually derived from the Greek word “Kaktos” and this word applied to a plant that they had which had spiny thistles on it. But, the cactus is also known by few other names, some people call it the “Mother-in-law’s Cushion” and you can imagine where that came from. A cactus actually symbolizes endurance as it is a plant that can really stand up to the test of time and the elements.
Description
There are so many different varieties of the cactus plant; you will see that depending on what is out there, you will have all kinds of different looks depending on the different species. You will see that there are some cacti that are extremely tall; there are other ones that are short, there ones that you can put in a little pot in your house. You have so many different choices, different colors, and different species that are going to look different and really have those distinct looks.
Uses
Generally, most people aren’t giving away a cactus for a Valentine’s Day gift, but they are using them as gifts. You will see a lot of people give a cactus to a friend or family member in a great little pot so that they can grow it. These plants symbolize endurance and to someone that is going through a hard time or even someone that is extremely determined, this is a great gift to give them with great meaning. Otherwise, most people that purchase a cactus are using it for a landscaping item, they are using it to jazz up the desert front yard that they have. Cacti are great for when you need to take up a lot of space in a yard and are in a climate where you just don’t have a lot of choices.
Why do People Plant the Cactus?
With a cactus, they are easy to grow; you just have to make sure that you know what you are doing. There are all kinds of different options out there and you need to make sure that the one you are growing is going to do ok in the area that you are located in. The important thing to remember with any cactus plant is that they are going to need to be grown in an extremely dry climate or area. If you are growing it in your home, you need to know when to water it and when to leave it alone, all of this is crucial and will make a huge difference in if it lives. With a cactus you want to make sure that it is extremely well drained, so that if it does get too much water it is able to drain out of wherever you are growing it. Too much water will actually kill a plant and will ruin all the work you’ve put into it.
Description
There are so many different varieties of the cactus plant; you will see that depending on what is out there, you will have all kinds of different looks depending on the different species. You will see that there are some cacti that are extremely tall; there are other ones that are short, there ones that you can put in a little pot in your house. You have so many different choices, different colors, and different species that are going to look different and really have those distinct looks.
Uses
Generally, most people aren’t giving away a cactus for a Valentine’s Day gift, but they are using them as gifts. You will see a lot of people give a cactus to a friend or family member in a great little pot so that they can grow it. These plants symbolize endurance and to someone that is going through a hard time or even someone that is extremely determined, this is a great gift to give them with great meaning. Otherwise, most people that purchase a cactus are using it for a landscaping item, they are using it to jazz up the desert front yard that they have. Cacti are great for when you need to take up a lot of space in a yard and are in a climate where you just don’t have a lot of choices.
Why do People Plant the Cactus?
With a cactus, they are easy to grow; you just have to make sure that you know what you are doing. There are all kinds of different options out there and you need to make sure that the one you are growing is going to do ok in the area that you are located in. The important thing to remember with any cactus plant is that they are going to need to be grown in an extremely dry climate or area. If you are growing it in your home, you need to know when to water it and when to leave it alone, all of this is crucial and will make a huge difference in if it lives. With a cactus you want to make sure that it is extremely well drained, so that if it does get too much water it is able to drain out of wherever you are growing it. Too much water will actually kill a plant and will ruin all the work you’ve put into it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Pachypodiums are succulent plants such as the cactus, but the basic difference is that the Pachypodiums have visible leaves, in some species the leaves are even very large in relation to plant (For example Pachypodium rutenbergianum, Pachypodium lamerei).
This characteristic means that this plant use its leaves to acquire their necessary needs for water and carbon dioxide quickly. So they acquire their nutritional needs especially during the rainy season which may be suddenly and violently in the warm season. This is necessary for them as the growing season is quite short in their natural environment.
The Pachypodiums have large fibrous roots that absorb moisture very quickly as they need to take advantage of the sudden (but very rare) good rains in their natural habitat. In contrast, the majority of the other succulent plants has much finer roots.
The Pachypodiums have a thick and shiny bark that makes it possible for them to reflect the strong sunlight and to protect themselves from drying out during the long periods of drought.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The three parameters of light, temperature and watering are closely linked: you should not change one without the other two. It is therefore important to note that the balance of these three parameters determine the good or bad health of their plant.
All kinds of Pachypodiums – except perhaps Pachypodium succulentum and Pachypodium bispinosum from South Africa – need much light because they originally grow under full sun in tropical countries. Direct sunlight is not absolutely necessary, but the sunlight should not be shielded by a natural (or artificial) view protection. A Pachypodium with a lack of light will wither, its branches will be weak and appear “lean” and the leaves will be too big and soft. Over time the Pachypodium will be susceptible to disease and fungus and the plant will eventually die.
The temperature can be very high, as in the habitats in Madagascar and South Africa in the summer. The minimum temperature is much more impotant for growing Pachypodiums because it triggers the rest. For most types of Pachypodiums the minimum temperature is about 55° F (13° C), but it depends very much on the moisture of the substrate. The drier the substrate, the lower temperatures are possible. Ideally you shouldn’t fall below a minimum temperature of 59° F (15° C) during the rest period.
In the growth phase the Pachypodiums require a lot of water. The fact is that the climatic environment drives them to store as much water as possible in a short time. As the rainy season can be very short, the plant must quickly invest their reserves. Some people say they are opportunists. For beginners it is sometimes difficult to consider when and how much water you should give the Pachypodium. You should not treat it like a cactus in any case. A helpful rule is to not be completely dry to the soil during periods of growth before it is poured again.
The dormancy or rest period of Pachypodiums is the most delicate moment to decide if you should water or not and how much. It is the time that is most misunderstood by beginners. In fact, it is different from other succulents so that the plant is not likely to survive without irrigation until next spring. Although the plants are very hard plants, you should consider that the plants need regularly water to replenish its moisture reserves in the rest period.
Pests and Diseases
Fortunately, the Pachypodiums are very rarely attacked by insects and also fungis are scarce. It is always better to solve the problems that may occur in a mechanical way (such as spraying water on the leaves, when beetles are on) or to try biological and organic products. Most of the problems come from the treatment and the cultivation, so it is important to first think before treating the plant with an aggressive product, because the consequences for the plant could be very bad.
This characteristic means that this plant use its leaves to acquire their necessary needs for water and carbon dioxide quickly. So they acquire their nutritional needs especially during the rainy season which may be suddenly and violently in the warm season. This is necessary for them as the growing season is quite short in their natural environment.
The Pachypodiums have large fibrous roots that absorb moisture very quickly as they need to take advantage of the sudden (but very rare) good rains in their natural habitat. In contrast, the majority of the other succulent plants has much finer roots.
The Pachypodiums have a thick and shiny bark that makes it possible for them to reflect the strong sunlight and to protect themselves from drying out during the long periods of drought.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The three parameters of light, temperature and watering are closely linked: you should not change one without the other two. It is therefore important to note that the balance of these three parameters determine the good or bad health of their plant.
All kinds of Pachypodiums – except perhaps Pachypodium succulentum and Pachypodium bispinosum from South Africa – need much light because they originally grow under full sun in tropical countries. Direct sunlight is not absolutely necessary, but the sunlight should not be shielded by a natural (or artificial) view protection. A Pachypodium with a lack of light will wither, its branches will be weak and appear “lean” and the leaves will be too big and soft. Over time the Pachypodium will be susceptible to disease and fungus and the plant will eventually die.
The temperature can be very high, as in the habitats in Madagascar and South Africa in the summer. The minimum temperature is much more impotant for growing Pachypodiums because it triggers the rest. For most types of Pachypodiums the minimum temperature is about 55° F (13° C), but it depends very much on the moisture of the substrate. The drier the substrate, the lower temperatures are possible. Ideally you shouldn’t fall below a minimum temperature of 59° F (15° C) during the rest period.
In the growth phase the Pachypodiums require a lot of water. The fact is that the climatic environment drives them to store as much water as possible in a short time. As the rainy season can be very short, the plant must quickly invest their reserves. Some people say they are opportunists. For beginners it is sometimes difficult to consider when and how much water you should give the Pachypodium. You should not treat it like a cactus in any case. A helpful rule is to not be completely dry to the soil during periods of growth before it is poured again.
The dormancy or rest period of Pachypodiums is the most delicate moment to decide if you should water or not and how much. It is the time that is most misunderstood by beginners. In fact, it is different from other succulents so that the plant is not likely to survive without irrigation until next spring. Although the plants are very hard plants, you should consider that the plants need regularly water to replenish its moisture reserves in the rest period.
Pests and Diseases
Fortunately, the Pachypodiums are very rarely attacked by insects and also fungis are scarce. It is always better to solve the problems that may occur in a mechanical way (such as spraying water on the leaves, when beetles are on) or to try biological and organic products. Most of the problems come from the treatment and the cultivation, so it is important to first think before treating the plant with an aggressive product, because the consequences for the plant could be very bad.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Gymnocalycium, commonly called Chin Cactus, is a genus of about 70 South American species of cacti. The genus name Gymnocalycium (from Greek, “naked calyx”) refers to the flower buds bearing no hair or spines.
Their main area of distribution is Argentina, part of Uruguay, Paraguay, southern Bolivia and part of Brazil. Most species are rather small varying from 2 to 6 inches (5 to 15 cm) in size. In cultivation they are popular for their easy flowering habits, and the flowers are generally brightly coloured. Where temperatures fall below 50 °F (10 °C) they must be cultivated under glass with heat.
Gymnocalycium plants in general present no problems in cultivation, and will respond well if potted on regularly every two or three years, to make flowering size plants fairly quickly, some within two years from seed, and will provide some of the finest spination in the Cactaceae family.
Growing Conditions
Light: Some Gymnocalyciums are shade-seeking in the wild, among shrubs or grasses, while others grow completely exposed. Some will therefore need a light shading from the sun in the hottest months, but to overdo this will result in loss of flowers.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while the plants are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Propagation
Those species which produce offsets can be readily propagated by cuttings. Gymnocalycium seed germinates well when fresh, and will keep for a few years if stored in cold conditions.
Grafting
It is not usually necessary to graft Gymnocalyciums, except for chlorophyll-less, or strongly variegated plants, but it may be resorted to in order to grow on seedlings of slow-growing species more quickly or to propagate more easily solitary or cristate plants. Flat grafting seems to be the most commonly used these days, and it really is the easiest to do. The best time for grafting is when both the stock (the bottom part, usually a cereoid cactus) and the scion (the top part, i.e. the Gymnocalycium you are grafting) are actively growing, usually from about April to August.
Pests and Diseases
As much as any other cacti, Gymnocalyciums suffer from the persistent pest, mealybug, in both its forms. Gymnocalyciums, like other cacti will suffer from fungal disorders if overwatered, but often only the root system will collapse, leaving you the job of cutting out any rot in the base of the plant, and dusting with a fungicide powder before rerooting.
Their main area of distribution is Argentina, part of Uruguay, Paraguay, southern Bolivia and part of Brazil. Most species are rather small varying from 2 to 6 inches (5 to 15 cm) in size. In cultivation they are popular for their easy flowering habits, and the flowers are generally brightly coloured. Where temperatures fall below 50 °F (10 °C) they must be cultivated under glass with heat.
Gymnocalycium plants in general present no problems in cultivation, and will respond well if potted on regularly every two or three years, to make flowering size plants fairly quickly, some within two years from seed, and will provide some of the finest spination in the Cactaceae family.
Growing Conditions
Light: Some Gymnocalyciums are shade-seeking in the wild, among shrubs or grasses, while others grow completely exposed. Some will therefore need a light shading from the sun in the hottest months, but to overdo this will result in loss of flowers.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while the plants are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Propagation
Those species which produce offsets can be readily propagated by cuttings. Gymnocalycium seed germinates well when fresh, and will keep for a few years if stored in cold conditions.
Grafting
It is not usually necessary to graft Gymnocalyciums, except for chlorophyll-less, or strongly variegated plants, but it may be resorted to in order to grow on seedlings of slow-growing species more quickly or to propagate more easily solitary or cristate plants. Flat grafting seems to be the most commonly used these days, and it really is the easiest to do. The best time for grafting is when both the stock (the bottom part, usually a cereoid cactus) and the scion (the top part, i.e. the Gymnocalycium you are grafting) are actively growing, usually from about April to August.
Pests and Diseases
As much as any other cacti, Gymnocalyciums suffer from the persistent pest, mealybug, in both its forms. Gymnocalyciums, like other cacti will suffer from fungal disorders if overwatered, but often only the root system will collapse, leaving you the job of cutting out any rot in the base of the plant, and dusting with a fungicide powder before rerooting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Though the term “cereus” once referred to any columnar species of cactus with an elongated body, today Cereus is a more specific genus of about fifty species and many of the cacti that were once considered Cereus cacti are now in other genera. Today, Cereus cacti are distinguished by their columnar growth habit, with ribs that spines protrude from. Since the genus was formed by removing other species from it, it includes some diversity – many species are classified as Cereus simply because they were not given any other genus.
This leads to some cacti being included that don’t fit the typical Cereus profile, like the thin C. albicaulis and C. insularis. Nonetheless, there is a basic template that most – but not all – Cereus cacti fit: they’re large, tree-like cacti with defined ribs and aureoles that require slightly richer, more moist soil than a typical cactus. Atypically for cacti, Cereus should not experience drought during their growing season in the summer, although they can tolerate lower water supply in winter. They produce long, fleshy, edible fruits that are generally red. These cacti are good for a succulent or rock garden where they have room to grow because they can be fairly large; for instance, the Hedge Cactus, or C. peruvianus (C. repandus), grows to about ten feet tall and its monstrose form is popular for its idiosyncratic, divided ribs. Most of these cacti are too large to grow inside, but younger specimens can be kept inside until they mature, and most plants in the genus are slow-growing. If you do keep Cereus inside in containers before moving them outside, be careful of their sharp spines when moving them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer.
Water: Cereus plants need slightly more water than most other cacti, and their soil should usually be kept moist during the growing season.
Temperature: Though hot temperatures are best, most of these are hardy plants that can tolerate down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7 degrees Celsius).
Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Cereus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material. Some recommend avoiding a soil that contains sphagnum moss, though – it can make the cactus vulnerable to root rot.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized during their growing season in the summer with a good cactus fertilizer.
Propagation
Cereus cacti propagate quite easily from cuttings; simply sever a branch and replant in moist, well-drained soil. It helps to allow the cut end dry out and harden before you replant it; this makes it easier for the new cactus to form roots.
Repotting
It may become necessary to repot your Cereus if it outgrows its container. If so, make sure the soil is dry and then remove the pot. Knock away old soil and prune away any rotted or dead roots, then replace it in a new pot and backfill with new soil. Make sure not to overwater cacti planted in new pots, as this can lead to root rot – it should be left dry for about a week and then watered lightly.
Grower’s Tips
Like most cacti, Cereus are fairly low-maintenance and hardy. Make sure they receive enough water without becoming waterlogged, especially during the summer, and fertilize them for best results. If the roots have become black or overly soft, the cactus could be experiencing root rot – cut away the affected parts and replant. Most gardeners interested in cacti should be able to cultivate these without much problem.
This leads to some cacti being included that don’t fit the typical Cereus profile, like the thin C. albicaulis and C. insularis. Nonetheless, there is a basic template that most – but not all – Cereus cacti fit: they’re large, tree-like cacti with defined ribs and aureoles that require slightly richer, more moist soil than a typical cactus. Atypically for cacti, Cereus should not experience drought during their growing season in the summer, although they can tolerate lower water supply in winter. They produce long, fleshy, edible fruits that are generally red. These cacti are good for a succulent or rock garden where they have room to grow because they can be fairly large; for instance, the Hedge Cactus, or C. peruvianus (C. repandus), grows to about ten feet tall and its monstrose form is popular for its idiosyncratic, divided ribs. Most of these cacti are too large to grow inside, but younger specimens can be kept inside until they mature, and most plants in the genus are slow-growing. If you do keep Cereus inside in containers before moving them outside, be careful of their sharp spines when moving them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer.
Water: Cereus plants need slightly more water than most other cacti, and their soil should usually be kept moist during the growing season.
Temperature: Though hot temperatures are best, most of these are hardy plants that can tolerate down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7 degrees Celsius).
Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Cereus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material. Some recommend avoiding a soil that contains sphagnum moss, though – it can make the cactus vulnerable to root rot.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized during their growing season in the summer with a good cactus fertilizer.
Propagation
Cereus cacti propagate quite easily from cuttings; simply sever a branch and replant in moist, well-drained soil. It helps to allow the cut end dry out and harden before you replant it; this makes it easier for the new cactus to form roots.
Repotting
It may become necessary to repot your Cereus if it outgrows its container. If so, make sure the soil is dry and then remove the pot. Knock away old soil and prune away any rotted or dead roots, then replace it in a new pot and backfill with new soil. Make sure not to overwater cacti planted in new pots, as this can lead to root rot – it should be left dry for about a week and then watered lightly.
Grower’s Tips
Like most cacti, Cereus are fairly low-maintenance and hardy. Make sure they receive enough water without becoming waterlogged, especially during the summer, and fertilize them for best results. If the roots have become black or overly soft, the cactus could be experiencing root rot – cut away the affected parts and replant. Most gardeners interested in cacti should be able to cultivate these without much problem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月20日
La Schlumbergera bridgesii es conocida de forma popular como cactus de Navidad sobre todo por florecer durante el invierno, al menos en el hemisferio Norte claro está. Es originaria de las áreas tropicales de Brasil y curiosamente a pesar de ser un cactus necesita de mucha humedad. Esto se debe a que su medio natural son los bosques tropicales en los que crece sobre los árboles, es por tanto una planta epifita.
Por tanto es una planta que no precisa mucha luz, en su medio natural crece a la sombra de los árboles, necesita mucha humedad y no precisa de descanso invernal. Si dispones de un cactus de Navidad y quieres reproducirlo puedes hacerlo fácilmente con un esqueje de hoja como ocurre con muchas suculentas. Vamos a ver este sencillo proceso que nos permitirá multiplicar nuestro cactus de Navidad en poco tiempo.
Tras la floración, en primavera, es el mejor momento para sacar los esquejes que aprovecharemos de la poda que haremos cuando las flores se estén marchitando. Necesitamos al menos dos secciones de hoja para poder empezar, mejor que sean tres para asegurarnos.
Colocamos la hoja en un recipiente con agua. Dos secciones de la hoja deben quedar cubiertas por el agua. Pondremos el recipiente en un lugar bien luminoso pero donde no reciba sol directo en ningún momento. Dejaremos que las raíces se desarrollen hasta tener una longitud similar a la de la hoja.
Ahora prepararemos una maceta pequeña con 2 partes de sustrato por 1 de arena gruesa o vermiculita. Regamos y dejamos la maceta en un lugar en el que tenga una temperatura de 21ºC aproximadamente durante el día y entre 15 y 18ºC durante la noche.
Trataremos a nuestra pequeña Schlumbergera más como si fuera una planta corriente que como un cactus. Regaremos cuando el sustrato seque casi por completo y la abonaremos mensualmente desde la primavera hasta el otoño con un abono para plantas de interior.
Por tanto es una planta que no precisa mucha luz, en su medio natural crece a la sombra de los árboles, necesita mucha humedad y no precisa de descanso invernal. Si dispones de un cactus de Navidad y quieres reproducirlo puedes hacerlo fácilmente con un esqueje de hoja como ocurre con muchas suculentas. Vamos a ver este sencillo proceso que nos permitirá multiplicar nuestro cactus de Navidad en poco tiempo.
Tras la floración, en primavera, es el mejor momento para sacar los esquejes que aprovecharemos de la poda que haremos cuando las flores se estén marchitando. Necesitamos al menos dos secciones de hoja para poder empezar, mejor que sean tres para asegurarnos.
Colocamos la hoja en un recipiente con agua. Dos secciones de la hoja deben quedar cubiertas por el agua. Pondremos el recipiente en un lugar bien luminoso pero donde no reciba sol directo en ningún momento. Dejaremos que las raíces se desarrollen hasta tener una longitud similar a la de la hoja.
Ahora prepararemos una maceta pequeña con 2 partes de sustrato por 1 de arena gruesa o vermiculita. Regamos y dejamos la maceta en un lugar en el que tenga una temperatura de 21ºC aproximadamente durante el día y entre 15 y 18ºC durante la noche.
Trataremos a nuestra pequeña Schlumbergera más como si fuera una planta corriente que como un cactus. Regaremos cuando el sustrato seque casi por completo y la abonaremos mensualmente desde la primavera hasta el otoño con un abono para plantas de interior.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月20日
El cactus luna, Epiphyllum anguliger, también conocido popularmente como cactus Reina de la noche o cactus Ric Rac es originario de México. Se trata de un cactus epifito con tallos y hojas de color verde claro. Los tallos son muy ramificados y tienden a caer hacia el suelo conforme crecen. El tallo o tallos principales lignifican con el tiempo y los secundarios son planos y suculentos.
Estos tallos secundarios pueden crecer hasta los 30 cm de longitud y miden unos 5 cm de anchura. Constan de una gran cantidad de lóbulos de forma triangular o ligeramente redondeada. Esta característica es en la que hay que fijarse para diferenciar el cactus luna del Selenicereus anthonyanus, pues este último tiene los lóbulos redondos o cuadrados y además sus flores son de color rojo cuando las del cactus luna son blancas.
Blancas o ligeramente amarillentas y aparecen por la noche a finales de otoño o principios del invierno. Expelen un fuerte aroma dulzón. Su tamaño es considerable pues llegan a medir hasta 20 cm de longitud y 7,5 cm de anchura. Posteriormente darán paso a unos frutos ovoides de color marrón, verde o amarillo de unos 4 cm de grosor.
El cactus luna no tolera temperaturas inferiores a 10ºC y necesita temperaturas superiores a 15ºC en su época de crecimiento. O lo que es lo mismo por debajo de esta última temperatura la planta entra en reposo. Así que si vivimos en un lugar de clima fresco o frío habrá que tener el cactus dentro de casa. Para su cultivo lo pondremos en un lugar bien luminoso y con una tasa bastante alta de humedad. Funciona muy bien el truco de poner la maceta sobre un plato con piedras o grava y rellenarlo con agua.
Usaremos sustrato para cactus mezclado con arena o perlita pues es una planta que necesita un muy buen drenaje. También podemos preparar nuestro sustrato con 3 partes de compost, 2 partes de arena o perlita y turba (que no lleve abono incorporado). La frecuencia de riego será de una vez por semana en verano y una vez al mes en invierno. Una vez al mes, en la época de crecimiento, añadiremos un poco de fertilizante para orquídeas al agua de riego. El cactus luna se reproduce por semillas o por esquejes, en este último caso los dejaremos secar un para de dias tras el corte. Si los tallos crecen demasiado podemos podarlos sin ningún problema.
Estos tallos secundarios pueden crecer hasta los 30 cm de longitud y miden unos 5 cm de anchura. Constan de una gran cantidad de lóbulos de forma triangular o ligeramente redondeada. Esta característica es en la que hay que fijarse para diferenciar el cactus luna del Selenicereus anthonyanus, pues este último tiene los lóbulos redondos o cuadrados y además sus flores son de color rojo cuando las del cactus luna son blancas.
Blancas o ligeramente amarillentas y aparecen por la noche a finales de otoño o principios del invierno. Expelen un fuerte aroma dulzón. Su tamaño es considerable pues llegan a medir hasta 20 cm de longitud y 7,5 cm de anchura. Posteriormente darán paso a unos frutos ovoides de color marrón, verde o amarillo de unos 4 cm de grosor.
El cactus luna no tolera temperaturas inferiores a 10ºC y necesita temperaturas superiores a 15ºC en su época de crecimiento. O lo que es lo mismo por debajo de esta última temperatura la planta entra en reposo. Así que si vivimos en un lugar de clima fresco o frío habrá que tener el cactus dentro de casa. Para su cultivo lo pondremos en un lugar bien luminoso y con una tasa bastante alta de humedad. Funciona muy bien el truco de poner la maceta sobre un plato con piedras o grava y rellenarlo con agua.
Usaremos sustrato para cactus mezclado con arena o perlita pues es una planta que necesita un muy buen drenaje. También podemos preparar nuestro sustrato con 3 partes de compost, 2 partes de arena o perlita y turba (que no lleve abono incorporado). La frecuencia de riego será de una vez por semana en verano y una vez al mes en invierno. Una vez al mes, en la época de crecimiento, añadiremos un poco de fertilizante para orquídeas al agua de riego. El cactus luna se reproduce por semillas o por esquejes, en este último caso los dejaremos secar un para de dias tras el corte. Si los tallos crecen demasiado podemos podarlos sin ningún problema.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月20日
Parece ser que este pequeño cactus está siendo toda una sensación en todo el mundo. Es muy pequeño y se puede cultivar en cualquier rincón de la casa. Originario Sudáfrica, de sus zonas desérticas concretamente se trata de una suculenta que almacena el agua en el interior de sus carnosas hojas pero también en las pequeñas perlas que salpican sus hojas como si de granos de azúcar se tratara.
Estas células que recubren el exterior de la planta no superan el mm de diámetro pero son capaces de almacenar humedad suficiente para una semana. En su ecosistema se trata de una planta de temporada, pierde sus hojas durante la época seca. Se cultiva sobre un sustrato suelto y bien drenado. Por ejemplo se la suele acompañar de pequeñas piedrecillas para recrear su ambiente natural. Una característica distintiva de la Monilaria obconica es que tiene dos tipos de hojas. Al principio de la temporada presenta un par de hojas unidas y compactas que actúan durante la fase posterior como fundas protectoras del ápice del tallo. Sus flores son espectaculares y de color rosa.
La Monilaria obconica puede reproducirse tanto por semillas como por esquejes. Las semillas son fáciles de encontrar online debido al gran éxito que ha tenido este cactus últimamente. Es una planta relativamente fácil de cultivar. Necesitará un sustrato bien drenado y una exposición limitada al sol. De hecho es mejor cultivarla bajo otras plantas para que aproveche la sombra. Sobre todo el sol directo en las horas centrales del día no le harán ningún bien. Le buscaremos un lugar con una buena circulación de aire. Soporta temperaturas de hasta -2ºC y es mejor que no la transplantemos demasiado, de hecho puede permanecer durante años en la misma maceta. Es una planta de otoño, invierno y primavera siendo el verano la estación en la que pasa a estado latente. Es en otoño cuando veremos el característico par de hojas que han hecho de esta planta una sensación.
Estas células que recubren el exterior de la planta no superan el mm de diámetro pero son capaces de almacenar humedad suficiente para una semana. En su ecosistema se trata de una planta de temporada, pierde sus hojas durante la época seca. Se cultiva sobre un sustrato suelto y bien drenado. Por ejemplo se la suele acompañar de pequeñas piedrecillas para recrear su ambiente natural. Una característica distintiva de la Monilaria obconica es que tiene dos tipos de hojas. Al principio de la temporada presenta un par de hojas unidas y compactas que actúan durante la fase posterior como fundas protectoras del ápice del tallo. Sus flores son espectaculares y de color rosa.
La Monilaria obconica puede reproducirse tanto por semillas como por esquejes. Las semillas son fáciles de encontrar online debido al gran éxito que ha tenido este cactus últimamente. Es una planta relativamente fácil de cultivar. Necesitará un sustrato bien drenado y una exposición limitada al sol. De hecho es mejor cultivarla bajo otras plantas para que aproveche la sombra. Sobre todo el sol directo en las horas centrales del día no le harán ningún bien. Le buscaremos un lugar con una buena circulación de aire. Soporta temperaturas de hasta -2ºC y es mejor que no la transplantemos demasiado, de hecho puede permanecer durante años en la misma maceta. Es una planta de otoño, invierno y primavera siendo el verano la estación en la que pasa a estado latente. Es en otoño cuando veremos el característico par de hojas que han hecho de esta planta una sensación.
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