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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Peyote (Lophophora williamsii) is a spineless cactus with a rich history of ritual use in the First Nation culture. In the United States the plant is illegal to cultivate or eat unless you are a member of the Native American Church. The plant is considered poisonous by U.S. officials but First Nations people use it as a sacrament and pathway to religious and personal enlightenment. While growing peyote is not allowed unless you are a member of the NAC, it is a fascinating plant with attributes worth learning about. There are, however, peyote plant look-a-likes you can grow at home that will satisfy your urge to cultivate this cute little cactus without breaking the law.
What is the Peyote Cactus?
Peyote cactus is a small plant native to the Rio Grande Valley of Texas and northeastern Mexico. It has numerous psychoactive chemicals, chiefly mescaline, which is used in religious ceremonies to elevate awareness and cause a mental and physical high. Peyote cultivation is a time-consuming process, as the plant can take up to 13 years to mature. In any event, growing peyote is illegal unless you are a member of the church and have filed the proper paperwork. The bulk of the plant is underground where thick, wide roots form, looking much like parsnips or carrots. The upper part of the cactus grows about an inch out of the ground in a rounded habit with a diameter of less than 2 inches. It is greenish blue with 5 to 13 ribs and fuzzy hairs. Peyote plants often have tubercles, which give the ribs a spiral appearance. Occasionally, the plant will produce pink flowers which become club-shaped, edible pink berries. The plant is considered endangered due to over harvesting and land development. A similar looking cactus, Astrophytum asterias, or star cactus, is legal to grow, but it is also endangered. Star cactus has only 8 ribs and a fibrous root system. It is also called the sand dollar or sea urchin cactus. Star cactus requires similar care to that of peyote and other cacti.
Additional Peyote Plant Info
The part of peyote that is used for ritual is the small cushion-like upper part. The larger root is left in the ground to regenerate a new crown. The upper part is dried or used fresh and is called a peyote button. These are generally no larger than a quarter once dried and the dosage is 6 to 15 buttons. Older peyote plants produce offsets and develop into larger clumps of many plants. The cactus has 9 narcotic alkaloids of the isoquinoline series. The bulk of the effect is visual hallucinations, but auditory and olfactory alterations are also present. Church members use the buttons as a sacrament and in religious teaching sessions. Care of peyote cacti is similar to most cacti. Grow them in a half and half mix of coconut husk and pumice. Restrict water after seedlings establish and keep the plants in indirect sun where temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 32 C.).
A few words on peyote cultivation
An interesting bit of peyote plant info is the form of documentation necessary to grow it. You must be in Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Oregon or Colorado. You must be a member of the NAC and at least 25% First Nations. You are required to write a Declaration of Religious Belief, get it notarized and file it with the county Recorder’s Office. You must post a copy of this document above the location where plants will be grown. Only the 5 states listed allow church members to grow the plant. It is illegal in all other states and is federally unlawful. In other words, it is not a good idea to try to grow it unless you are a documented member of the Native American Church. For the rest of us, the star cactus will provide similar visual appeal and growth habit, without the danger of jail time.
What is the Peyote Cactus?
Peyote cactus is a small plant native to the Rio Grande Valley of Texas and northeastern Mexico. It has numerous psychoactive chemicals, chiefly mescaline, which is used in religious ceremonies to elevate awareness and cause a mental and physical high. Peyote cultivation is a time-consuming process, as the plant can take up to 13 years to mature. In any event, growing peyote is illegal unless you are a member of the church and have filed the proper paperwork. The bulk of the plant is underground where thick, wide roots form, looking much like parsnips or carrots. The upper part of the cactus grows about an inch out of the ground in a rounded habit with a diameter of less than 2 inches. It is greenish blue with 5 to 13 ribs and fuzzy hairs. Peyote plants often have tubercles, which give the ribs a spiral appearance. Occasionally, the plant will produce pink flowers which become club-shaped, edible pink berries. The plant is considered endangered due to over harvesting and land development. A similar looking cactus, Astrophytum asterias, or star cactus, is legal to grow, but it is also endangered. Star cactus has only 8 ribs and a fibrous root system. It is also called the sand dollar or sea urchin cactus. Star cactus requires similar care to that of peyote and other cacti.
Additional Peyote Plant Info
The part of peyote that is used for ritual is the small cushion-like upper part. The larger root is left in the ground to regenerate a new crown. The upper part is dried or used fresh and is called a peyote button. These are generally no larger than a quarter once dried and the dosage is 6 to 15 buttons. Older peyote plants produce offsets and develop into larger clumps of many plants. The cactus has 9 narcotic alkaloids of the isoquinoline series. The bulk of the effect is visual hallucinations, but auditory and olfactory alterations are also present. Church members use the buttons as a sacrament and in religious teaching sessions. Care of peyote cacti is similar to most cacti. Grow them in a half and half mix of coconut husk and pumice. Restrict water after seedlings establish and keep the plants in indirect sun where temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 32 C.).
A few words on peyote cultivation
An interesting bit of peyote plant info is the form of documentation necessary to grow it. You must be in Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Oregon or Colorado. You must be a member of the NAC and at least 25% First Nations. You are required to write a Declaration of Religious Belief, get it notarized and file it with the county Recorder’s Office. You must post a copy of this document above the location where plants will be grown. Only the 5 states listed allow church members to grow the plant. It is illegal in all other states and is federally unlawful. In other words, it is not a good idea to try to grow it unless you are a documented member of the Native American Church. For the rest of us, the star cactus will provide similar visual appeal and growth habit, without the danger of jail time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The pencil cactus plant is in the Euphorbia family of succulents. Another common name for the plant is Milkbush due to the cloudy sap it releases when injured. Be cautious when caring for a pencil cactus; the sap is toxic and may cause problems in some people. The pencil cactus needs high levels of light and moderately low moisture. It is an excellent houseplant and provides an interesting silhouette. Let’s learn how to grow pencil cactus in your home.
Information on the Pencil Cactus Plant
The pencil cactus is a large plant native to Africa and India. The plant is ideal for sunny warm spots indoors or greenhouse growing. Care of pencil cactus is minimal. Euphorbia tirucalli, or pencil cactus, is a tropical plant that may become 30 feet tall in habitat. The stems are slender and slightly toothed with no obvious foliage. The branches are the diameter of a pencil, which give rise to the name. The new growth on the end may be tinged pink and have tiny leaves which disappear as the branch matures.
How to Care for a Pencil Cactus
A pencil cactus needs very little care and can even be neglected if it is planted and situated correctly. The soil must be slightly gritty and well draining. The container to use could be an unglazed pot which will allow excess moisture to evaporate. Euphorbia plants are quite adapted to limited fertility environments and care of pencil cactus requires only one fertilization in spring. Full sun and temperatures of at least 65 F. (18 C.) or warmer are necessary when learning how to care for a pencil cactus. Pencil cactus is easy to grow. It will need water approximately every two to three weeks in summer but no water in winter. Allow the plant to dry out between irrigations. Care must be taken when caring for a pencil cactus to avoid the sap. Even eye protection is necessary because the pencil cactus plant produces a toxin that can cause an anaphylactic reaction. In most cases it can be cleared up with antihistamine but occasionally more severe reactions occur and are difficult to clear.
Care of Pencil Cactus Cuttings
Pencil cactus is very easy to propagate with cuttings. Great care must be taken when harvesting and planting these to avoid the sap, but the cuttings root readily. You will need small pots, a soilless medium to prevent rot and pathogens and a misting bottle. Take cuttings with a sterile razor blade and let them dry for two days to form a callus. Insert the cuttings into the medium at least an inch deep and mist. Caring for a pencil cactus cutting requires low light and slightly more moisture than fully established plants. Once new growth commences, gradually introduce the plant to higher light and reduce watering. The cactus will hit your ceiling in just a few years, so don’t be afraid to prune it and use the cuttings to make new pencil cactus plants.
Information on the Pencil Cactus Plant
The pencil cactus is a large plant native to Africa and India. The plant is ideal for sunny warm spots indoors or greenhouse growing. Care of pencil cactus is minimal. Euphorbia tirucalli, or pencil cactus, is a tropical plant that may become 30 feet tall in habitat. The stems are slender and slightly toothed with no obvious foliage. The branches are the diameter of a pencil, which give rise to the name. The new growth on the end may be tinged pink and have tiny leaves which disappear as the branch matures.
How to Care for a Pencil Cactus
A pencil cactus needs very little care and can even be neglected if it is planted and situated correctly. The soil must be slightly gritty and well draining. The container to use could be an unglazed pot which will allow excess moisture to evaporate. Euphorbia plants are quite adapted to limited fertility environments and care of pencil cactus requires only one fertilization in spring. Full sun and temperatures of at least 65 F. (18 C.) or warmer are necessary when learning how to care for a pencil cactus. Pencil cactus is easy to grow. It will need water approximately every two to three weeks in summer but no water in winter. Allow the plant to dry out between irrigations. Care must be taken when caring for a pencil cactus to avoid the sap. Even eye protection is necessary because the pencil cactus plant produces a toxin that can cause an anaphylactic reaction. In most cases it can be cleared up with antihistamine but occasionally more severe reactions occur and are difficult to clear.
Care of Pencil Cactus Cuttings
Pencil cactus is very easy to propagate with cuttings. Great care must be taken when harvesting and planting these to avoid the sap, but the cuttings root readily. You will need small pots, a soilless medium to prevent rot and pathogens and a misting bottle. Take cuttings with a sterile razor blade and let them dry for two days to form a callus. Insert the cuttings into the medium at least an inch deep and mist. Caring for a pencil cactus cutting requires low light and slightly more moisture than fully established plants. Once new growth commences, gradually introduce the plant to higher light and reduce watering. The cactus will hit your ceiling in just a few years, so don’t be afraid to prune it and use the cuttings to make new pencil cactus plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The organ pipe cactus (Stenocereus thurberi) is so named because of its multi-limbed grow habit which does resemble the pipes of the grand organs found in churches. You can only grow organ pipe cactus in warm to hot climates where there is room for a 26-foot tall plant. However, the cactus is slow growing, so planting organ pipe cactus in a container for a few years is a fun way to grow this interesting plant.
Planting Organ Pipe Cactus
Organ pipe cactus grows well in well-drained, gritty soils. Planting the cactus in an unglazed clay pot will allow excess moisture to evaporate. Use either a cactus mix or make your own with one part potting soil, one part sand and one part perlite. Immerse the cactus in the soil up to the bottom of the stems and press the soil around it to firm. Put a mulch of tiny rocks on top of the soil to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Place the cactus indoors where temperatures are 70 -80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) in full sun.
Grow Organ Pipe Cactus
Organ pipe cactus is a wild growing plant found in hot, sunny southern Arizona. The cactus’ habitat is rocky, sandy and generally inhospitable and unfertile. Organ pipe cactus stems are generally about 16 feet long, and the entire plant can attain 12 feet in width. The stems are ribbed with 12- to 19-inch thick ridges. The entire plant is covered in black spines that become lighter as they get older. The organ pipe cactus lives a long time and doesn’t reach maturity until it is 150 years old. Organ pipe cactus care is highlighted by watering. The most common cause of potted cactus failure is over irrigating the plant. The cactus is used to low fertility, but as a potted plant has limited access to resources. Give it a good cactus food in the irrigation water in early spring. Do not water in the winter from November to February. Watch for pests, such as scale sucking insects, and use an insecticidal soap to combat them. You can put your potted cactus outdoors year round in USDA zones 9 to 11.
Organ Pipe Cactus Flowers
As they mature and grow, organ pipe cactus produce large flowers. The blooms are pure, snowy white with pink or purple edging and 3 inches across. The flowers are held well out from the cactus to help bats and insect pollinators access the bloom. The flower is primarily pollinated at night by bats or perhaps moths. The flower opens at night and closes in the day. April, May and June are the best times to see organ pipe cactus flowers. The flowers yield to large juicy fruits with bright red flesh. Homegrown organ pipe cactus are unlikely to produce flowers unless they have been in the landscape for over a century, but you can travel to the Organ Pipe National Park in Arizona to view the spectacular flowers.
Planting Organ Pipe Cactus
Organ pipe cactus grows well in well-drained, gritty soils. Planting the cactus in an unglazed clay pot will allow excess moisture to evaporate. Use either a cactus mix or make your own with one part potting soil, one part sand and one part perlite. Immerse the cactus in the soil up to the bottom of the stems and press the soil around it to firm. Put a mulch of tiny rocks on top of the soil to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Place the cactus indoors where temperatures are 70 -80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) in full sun.
Grow Organ Pipe Cactus
Organ pipe cactus is a wild growing plant found in hot, sunny southern Arizona. The cactus’ habitat is rocky, sandy and generally inhospitable and unfertile. Organ pipe cactus stems are generally about 16 feet long, and the entire plant can attain 12 feet in width. The stems are ribbed with 12- to 19-inch thick ridges. The entire plant is covered in black spines that become lighter as they get older. The organ pipe cactus lives a long time and doesn’t reach maturity until it is 150 years old. Organ pipe cactus care is highlighted by watering. The most common cause of potted cactus failure is over irrigating the plant. The cactus is used to low fertility, but as a potted plant has limited access to resources. Give it a good cactus food in the irrigation water in early spring. Do not water in the winter from November to February. Watch for pests, such as scale sucking insects, and use an insecticidal soap to combat them. You can put your potted cactus outdoors year round in USDA zones 9 to 11.
Organ Pipe Cactus Flowers
As they mature and grow, organ pipe cactus produce large flowers. The blooms are pure, snowy white with pink or purple edging and 3 inches across. The flowers are held well out from the cactus to help bats and insect pollinators access the bloom. The flower is primarily pollinated at night by bats or perhaps moths. The flower opens at night and closes in the day. April, May and June are the best times to see organ pipe cactus flowers. The flowers yield to large juicy fruits with bright red flesh. Homegrown organ pipe cactus are unlikely to produce flowers unless they have been in the landscape for over a century, but you can travel to the Organ Pipe National Park in Arizona to view the spectacular flowers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you are looking for a houseplant with a lot of character and personality, consider growing old man cactus (Cephalocereus senilis). While it isn’t wrinkly or on social security, the plant does have fluffy white tufts of hair over the surface of the cactus body. The appearance is reminiscent of senior citizen pates, lightly cushioned by sparse, long billowy hair. Indoor cactus growing is most suitable in the majority of the United States growing zones. Learn how to grow an old man cactus and bring the cute little plant with the fuzzy white hairdo into your home.
Old Man Cactus Houseplants
This cactus can go outside in USDA zones 9 and 10. Native to Mexico, they need hot, dry climates and bright sunlight. The long hair is used by the plant to keep itself cool in its natural habitat. As an outdoor plant, they can get 45 feet tall but are generally slow growing as potted plants. Old man cacti are mostly grown as houseplants and stay small and easily kept in a container for their entire lives. Indoor cactus growing requires a southern- or western-facing window and temperatures of at least 65 F. (18 C.). For best growth, give it a winter hibernation period in an area where temperatures are below 65 F. (18 C.).
How to Grow an Old Man Cactus
Use a cactus mix or blend of sand, perlite and topsoil for indoor cactus growing. Also, use an unglazed pot for growing old man cactus. This will allow the pot to evaporate any excess moisture. Old man cactus houseplants like their soil on the dry side and overwatering is a common cause of rot and disease. Old man cactus needs a sunny, warm location but has few other needs. You should watch it carefully for pests, however, which can hide in the hair. These include mealybugs, scale, and flying pests.
Old Man Cactus Care
Old man cactus is easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. Seeds take a long time to grow into something recognizable as a cactus, but it is a cheap and fun project for children. Cuttings need to lie out on the counter in a dry location for a couple of days to callus. Then insert the cut end with the dry, white callus into a soilless medium, such as sand or perlite. Keep the cutting in moderate, but not scalding, light where temperatures are at least 70 F. (21 C.) for best rooting. Don’t water until the little cutting has rooted. Then treat your new old man cactus houseplants as you would a mature specimen.
Old Man Cactus Houseplants
This cactus can go outside in USDA zones 9 and 10. Native to Mexico, they need hot, dry climates and bright sunlight. The long hair is used by the plant to keep itself cool in its natural habitat. As an outdoor plant, they can get 45 feet tall but are generally slow growing as potted plants. Old man cacti are mostly grown as houseplants and stay small and easily kept in a container for their entire lives. Indoor cactus growing requires a southern- or western-facing window and temperatures of at least 65 F. (18 C.). For best growth, give it a winter hibernation period in an area where temperatures are below 65 F. (18 C.).
How to Grow an Old Man Cactus
Use a cactus mix or blend of sand, perlite and topsoil for indoor cactus growing. Also, use an unglazed pot for growing old man cactus. This will allow the pot to evaporate any excess moisture. Old man cactus houseplants like their soil on the dry side and overwatering is a common cause of rot and disease. Old man cactus needs a sunny, warm location but has few other needs. You should watch it carefully for pests, however, which can hide in the hair. These include mealybugs, scale, and flying pests.
Old Man Cactus Care
Old man cactus is easy to propagate from cuttings or seed. Seeds take a long time to grow into something recognizable as a cactus, but it is a cheap and fun project for children. Cuttings need to lie out on the counter in a dry location for a couple of days to callus. Then insert the cut end with the dry, white callus into a soilless medium, such as sand or perlite. Keep the cutting in moderate, but not scalding, light where temperatures are at least 70 F. (21 C.) for best rooting. Don’t water until the little cutting has rooted. Then treat your new old man cactus houseplants as you would a mature specimen.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The ocotillo plant (Fouquieria splendens) is desert shrub that produces a spectacle of bright pink flowers on whip-like canes. It is often called ocotillo cactus, but is not truly a cactus, although it grows in similar conditions. The plant is native to the Sonoron and Chihuahuan deserts. The canes may grow up to 20 feet long in nature but are more likely to get 6 to 10 feet in cultivation. Ocotillo is suitable for xeriscapes, rock gardens and warm climate container gardens.
Growing Ocotillo
Ocotillo provides architectural interest and fantastic color displays of bright red to pink flowers. The ocotillo plant is a succulent with good drought tolerance once established and a cold hardiness of 10 F. (-12 C.). Growing ocotillo requires a well-drained soil in full sun. Ocotillo plant tends to lose its leaves when exposed to extreme drought but leafs out in spring and summer rains. Ocotillo really has no special needs and is an easy to grow plant provided it is used in a climate that can provide plenty of sun and heat. The plant may be difficult to locate at a nursery, although it is grown in Phoenix and a few other locations. Ocotillo is a native plant and is protected, which means it is illegal to harvest it from the desert. In the home landscape, plant ocotillo, cactus and a variety of succulents in a shallow container as a stunning desert display. It may take six to 12 months for your ocotillo plant to fully establish and begin to leaf out and flower. You can then stop irrigating and allow the plant to acquire its moisture from rain and dew. Ocotillo grows wild in areas with minimal fertility so it is not necessary to feed the plants more than once annually. Ocotillo care includes removal of dead and broken canes. Ocotillo plant has few pests and no known diseases, but watch for scale and sucking insects, which you can zap with insecticidal soap.
Planting Ocotillo
Planting ocotillo should be done in a hole that is twice as wide as the root system, but no deeper. It needs to go into the ground at the same level in which it was originally growing. Most ocotillo that are found in nurseries will be bare root and should be well supported in the ground. Ocotillo plant is then irrigated once a week during the summer while it is establishing. Water rarely in winter and continue good ocotillo care by weighting down the area around the roots with rocks to prevent it from falling over and to conserve moisture.
Ocotillo Plant Uses in the Garden
Ocotillo is found in the southwest parts of the United States and is excellent as part of a desert garden. Plant it with drought tolerant ornamental grasses and sempervivum or sedum. It is a large, wide plant when mature so make certain it has room to spread its canes. Plant an ocotillo in a clay pot as part of a succulent display.
Growing Ocotillo
Ocotillo provides architectural interest and fantastic color displays of bright red to pink flowers. The ocotillo plant is a succulent with good drought tolerance once established and a cold hardiness of 10 F. (-12 C.). Growing ocotillo requires a well-drained soil in full sun. Ocotillo plant tends to lose its leaves when exposed to extreme drought but leafs out in spring and summer rains. Ocotillo really has no special needs and is an easy to grow plant provided it is used in a climate that can provide plenty of sun and heat. The plant may be difficult to locate at a nursery, although it is grown in Phoenix and a few other locations. Ocotillo is a native plant and is protected, which means it is illegal to harvest it from the desert. In the home landscape, plant ocotillo, cactus and a variety of succulents in a shallow container as a stunning desert display. It may take six to 12 months for your ocotillo plant to fully establish and begin to leaf out and flower. You can then stop irrigating and allow the plant to acquire its moisture from rain and dew. Ocotillo grows wild in areas with minimal fertility so it is not necessary to feed the plants more than once annually. Ocotillo care includes removal of dead and broken canes. Ocotillo plant has few pests and no known diseases, but watch for scale and sucking insects, which you can zap with insecticidal soap.
Planting Ocotillo
Planting ocotillo should be done in a hole that is twice as wide as the root system, but no deeper. It needs to go into the ground at the same level in which it was originally growing. Most ocotillo that are found in nurseries will be bare root and should be well supported in the ground. Ocotillo plant is then irrigated once a week during the summer while it is establishing. Water rarely in winter and continue good ocotillo care by weighting down the area around the roots with rocks to prevent it from falling over and to conserve moisture.
Ocotillo Plant Uses in the Garden
Ocotillo is found in the southwest parts of the United States and is excellent as part of a desert garden. Plant it with drought tolerant ornamental grasses and sempervivum or sedum. It is a large, wide plant when mature so make certain it has room to spread its canes. Plant an ocotillo in a clay pot as part of a succulent display.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Night blooming Cereus is a cactus that is native to Arizona and the Sonora Desert. There are numerous romanticized names for the plant such as Queen of the Night and Princess of the Night. The name is an umbrella term for approximately seven different genera, which have the night blooming characteristic. The most common are Epiphyllum, Hylocereus or Selenicereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Hylocereus undatus or Selenicereus grandiflorus). No matter which genus, the plant is a Cereus night blooming cactus.
Night Blooming Cereus
This cactus variety is generally grown as a houseplant in all but the hottest regions of the United States. The Cereus night blooming cactus is a tall climbing cactus that may approach 10 feet tall. The cactus is three ribbed and has black spines along green to yellow stems. The plant is a rather untidy jumble of limbs and requires manicuring to keep it in habit. Night blooming Cereus plants can actually be trained to a trellis in Arizona and other suitable climates.
Cereus Flower Information
Night blooming Cereus will not begin to flower until it is four or five years old and will begin with just a couple of flowers. The incidence of blooms will increase as the plant grows older. The flower is breathtaking at almost 7 inches across and produces a heavenly scent. The bloom will only open at night and is pollinated by a moth. The Cereus flower is a large white flower borne off the tops of the stems. It will close and wither in the morning but if it was pollinated the plant produces large juicy red fruit.. The flowers usually begin to bloom at 9 or 10 p.m. and are fully open by midnight. The first rays of the sun will see the petals droop and die. You can force your Cereus to bloom by keeping the plant in a completely dark environment from dusk to dawn during the bloom season. Night blooming Cereus flowers in July to October. This will mimic the outdoor light it experiences. Reduce watering and don’t fertilize during the fall and winter period so the plant slows growth and reserves energy for the blooms. A rootbound cactus produces more abundant Cereus flowers.
Night Blooming Cereus Care
Grow a night blooming Cereus in bright sunshine where temperatures are toasty. The plant has extreme heat tolerance and can handle temperatures over 100 F. (38 C.) with light shade. Potted plants should be grown in a cactus mix or gritty soil with excellent drainage. Fertilize the plant in spring with a diluted houseplant food. The limbs can get unruly, but you can trim them without hurting the cactus. Save the cut ends and plant them to create more of the Cereus night blooming cactus. Bring your cactus outdoors in summer but don’t forget to bring it in when temperatures begin to drop.
Night Blooming Cereus
This cactus variety is generally grown as a houseplant in all but the hottest regions of the United States. The Cereus night blooming cactus is a tall climbing cactus that may approach 10 feet tall. The cactus is three ribbed and has black spines along green to yellow stems. The plant is a rather untidy jumble of limbs and requires manicuring to keep it in habit. Night blooming Cereus plants can actually be trained to a trellis in Arizona and other suitable climates.
Cereus Flower Information
Night blooming Cereus will not begin to flower until it is four or five years old and will begin with just a couple of flowers. The incidence of blooms will increase as the plant grows older. The flower is breathtaking at almost 7 inches across and produces a heavenly scent. The bloom will only open at night and is pollinated by a moth. The Cereus flower is a large white flower borne off the tops of the stems. It will close and wither in the morning but if it was pollinated the plant produces large juicy red fruit.. The flowers usually begin to bloom at 9 or 10 p.m. and are fully open by midnight. The first rays of the sun will see the petals droop and die. You can force your Cereus to bloom by keeping the plant in a completely dark environment from dusk to dawn during the bloom season. Night blooming Cereus flowers in July to October. This will mimic the outdoor light it experiences. Reduce watering and don’t fertilize during the fall and winter period so the plant slows growth and reserves energy for the blooms. A rootbound cactus produces more abundant Cereus flowers.
Night Blooming Cereus Care
Grow a night blooming Cereus in bright sunshine where temperatures are toasty. The plant has extreme heat tolerance and can handle temperatures over 100 F. (38 C.) with light shade. Potted plants should be grown in a cactus mix or gritty soil with excellent drainage. Fertilize the plant in spring with a diluted houseplant food. The limbs can get unruly, but you can trim them without hurting the cactus. Save the cut ends and plant them to create more of the Cereus night blooming cactus. Bring your cactus outdoors in summer but don’t forget to bring it in when temperatures begin to drop.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Night blooming cereus is one of the easiest cactus from which to take cuttings. These succulents can root in just a few weeks from cuttings that are taken in spring from its leaves. Propagating night blooming cereus from cuttings is faster and easier than trying to start new plants from seed. In this article, we’ll give you a few tips on how to propagate a night blooming cereus for the best chance at doubling your stock of these amazing plants.
Night Blooming Cereus Cuttings
Night blooming cereus is a leggy plant with flat leaves and gangly stems, but when it is blooming it goes from wall flower to star of the show. The fragrant dinner plate sized blooms are worth waiting for as they perfume your whole house. Rooting night blooming cereus to create more plants is easy. These cactus root quickly and establish as single plants in less than a month.
The best time to take cuttings is during the growing seasons, spring through summer. This is when plant cells are at their most active and can be induced to produce roots rather than leaf cells. Use clean, sharp implements anytime you take a cutting from a plant. Night blooming cereus cuttings should be 6 to 9 inches long and from terminal growth. This is where plant cells are youngest and easiest to influence. Let the cuttings callus in a warm dry location for up to 2 weeks. The ends will be whitish and closed. The callus step is crucial to rooting night blooming cereus. It is from this callus that the root cells will form.
How to Propagate a Night Blooming Cereus
Once you have your callused plant material, you need to prepare your medium. You can use a standard cactus potting soil or create a mixture of coarse sand and peat for propagating cereus cactus. Choose a container that drains well, such as a terra cotta pot, and one that is just a couple of inches bigger than the diameter of the leaf. Insert the cutting, callus side down, into you potting medium. Bury the cutting in the medium about half way and firm the soil around to remove any air pockets. Water your cutting and then only irrigate as often as you would an adult cactus. Never let soil get soggy, as the cutting will simply rot and any new roots will melt away. Keep the container in a cool, bright location for two weeks as roots form.
Care When Propagating Cereus Cactus
Once your cactus has roots, it is time to move it to a slightly warmer location. The cutting shouldn’t need repotting for a couple of years and can be grown on in its small pot. During the growing season, fertilize with a soluble plant fertilizer once per month. Just before blooms form, use a high phosphorus food to improve blooming. If any damage occurs to the stems and leaves, simply cut it off, trim the piece to where healthy tissue is and allow it to callus, propagating night blooming cereus anew. In just a short time, you could have so many of these plants you’ll be begging your friends to take one away.
Night Blooming Cereus Cuttings
Night blooming cereus is a leggy plant with flat leaves and gangly stems, but when it is blooming it goes from wall flower to star of the show. The fragrant dinner plate sized blooms are worth waiting for as they perfume your whole house. Rooting night blooming cereus to create more plants is easy. These cactus root quickly and establish as single plants in less than a month.
The best time to take cuttings is during the growing seasons, spring through summer. This is when plant cells are at their most active and can be induced to produce roots rather than leaf cells. Use clean, sharp implements anytime you take a cutting from a plant. Night blooming cereus cuttings should be 6 to 9 inches long and from terminal growth. This is where plant cells are youngest and easiest to influence. Let the cuttings callus in a warm dry location for up to 2 weeks. The ends will be whitish and closed. The callus step is crucial to rooting night blooming cereus. It is from this callus that the root cells will form.
How to Propagate a Night Blooming Cereus
Once you have your callused plant material, you need to prepare your medium. You can use a standard cactus potting soil or create a mixture of coarse sand and peat for propagating cereus cactus. Choose a container that drains well, such as a terra cotta pot, and one that is just a couple of inches bigger than the diameter of the leaf. Insert the cutting, callus side down, into you potting medium. Bury the cutting in the medium about half way and firm the soil around to remove any air pockets. Water your cutting and then only irrigate as often as you would an adult cactus. Never let soil get soggy, as the cutting will simply rot and any new roots will melt away. Keep the container in a cool, bright location for two weeks as roots form.
Care When Propagating Cereus Cactus
Once your cactus has roots, it is time to move it to a slightly warmer location. The cutting shouldn’t need repotting for a couple of years and can be grown on in its small pot. During the growing season, fertilize with a soluble plant fertilizer once per month. Just before blooms form, use a high phosphorus food to improve blooming. If any damage occurs to the stems and leaves, simply cut it off, trim the piece to where healthy tissue is and allow it to callus, propagating night blooming cereus anew. In just a short time, you could have so many of these plants you’ll be begging your friends to take one away.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月26日
Los métodos para multiplicar Crasas y Cactus son los siguientes:
• Semillas
• Esquejes
• Hijuelos
• División de mata
• Injerto
El cultivo in vitro no está al alcance del aficionado por los equipos necesarios y el acodo en Suculentas es raro.
En este artículo vamos a ver 3 de ellos: esquejes, división de mata e hijuelos. Por semillas y por injerto se explican en páginas aparte.
Esquejes de cactus y suculentas
1. ¿Por qué hacer esquejes de Crasas?
• Es una manera fácil y frecuente de multiplicar plantas.
• Mediante esquejes se obtienen nuevos ejemplares en menos tiempo que por semilla.
• Hay Cactus y otras Crasas que no se pueden reproducir por semillaporque carecen de flores o porque éstas son estériles y necesariamente hay que aplicar alguno de los demás métodos: esquejado, hijuelos, división o injerto.
• Las plantas variegatas o variegadas poseen una anomalía genética consistente en la falta total o parcial del pigmento clorofila. Estéticamente puede resultar atractivo este carácter y para mantenerlo en la descendencia es preciso recurrir al esquejado, ya que por semillas, no saldría.
2. Tipos de esquejes
• Esquejes de hoja
Hacer esquejes de hoja es muy sencillo. Por ejemplo, en Echeveria spp., Graptopetalum paraguayense, Crassula arborescens, muchas especies Crasuláceas o del género Sedum...
Corta hojas desde su insercción.
Deja que se sequen las heridas al menos 7 días.
Introduce 1 centímetro o así en el sustrato.
Aproximadamente al cabo del mes aparece unas hojitas de la nueva planta unida a la hoja madre. Seguirá creciendo hasta hacerse un ejemplar nuevo.
Las hojas de Sedum rubrotinctum, por ejemplo, caen sobre la tierra o sobre el tiesto y arraigan solas; se llena de plántulas su alrededor con el tiempo. Al Kalanchoe daigremontiana le ocurre lo mismo, pero con una morfología muy original de hojas que tiene en los bordes brotes-plántulas, que caen y dan lugar a nuevas plantas.
• Esquejes de tallo
Los esquejes consisten en trozos de tallo sin raíces, como el del Trichocereus de la foto de abajo.
Unas especies agarran más fácilmente y otras fallan bastante. Por ejemplo, las Stapelias tienden fácilmente a pudrirse por el corte; las Euforbias también son delicadas y hay que tener paciencia. Etc.
2. Epoca para esquejar
La mejor época para efectuar todo tipo de esquejes va desde la primavera hasta principios de verano. Es un periodo en el que la planta recupera su vitalidad y el esqueje enraiza con facilidad. Además, la planta madre produce nuevos brotes y sigue creciendo.
En verano u otoño las probabilidades de que el esqueje falle aumentan. En un invernadero o en un interior se pueden controlar las temperaturas hasta cierto punto.
Nunca plantes esquejes en invierno, espera a primavera. Si ya están cortados, pueden aguantar perfectamente varios meses sin plantar hasta primavera, aunque se arruguen.
3. Los pasos
1. Los esquejes han de hacerse de plantas madre ya desarrolladas, que tengan varios años de edad.
2. Si fuera un Cactus, usa guantes y envuelve el ejemplar con un trapo o periódicos para cogerlo.
3. Corta los esquejes limpiamente con un cuchillo perfectamente afilado y desinfectado con alcohol. Si desgarras los tejidos, es más difícil que echen raíces.
4. Recubre la herida dejada a la planta madre con ceniza, canela en polvo o espolvorea con un fungicida polivalente comercial con efecto antibotritis. Cualquiera de estos métodos sirven para evitar los hongos.
5. Antes de plantar el esqueje, es fundamental que dejes secar totalmente la herida. Guarda los esquejes en un lugar a la sombra, en posición horizontal. Si se trata de especies de gran tamaño se pueden dejar al exterior. El tiempo es variable, pero como mínimo 7 días y para Cactus y Euforbias está bien 15 días o llegar al mes, no hay problema porque tienen reservas. Con el corte seco ya estará listo para ser plantado.
6. Puedes impregnar la base del esqueje con polvos de hormonas de enraizamiento con el fin de estimular la salida de raíces. No es imprescindible, pero ayuda. Algunas hormonas tienen efecto fungicida añadido para proteger de hongos. La emisión de raíces es más rápida cuando se usan, pero repito que no son indispensables.
7. Prepara macetas o bandejas con agujeros de drenaje grandes. Pon una capa de grava en el fondo. Tiene que drenar a la perfección para que no se pudran.
8. Rellénalas de sustrato muy esponjoso y aireado.
9. Venden sustratos especiales para Cactus que son en general, recomendables y evitan engorros. Si lo haces tú, una mezcla válida y sencilla sería turba negra + arena gruesa de río mitad y mitad. La arena demasiado fina no vale porque se apelmaza.
Es recomendable desinfectar previamente el sustrato, por ejemplo, metiéndolo en el microondas o en el horno.
10. Los cactus epifíticos (géneros Rhipsalis, Epiphyllum) viven en selvas húmedas tropicales y requieren pH ácido, por lo que en lugar de turba negra, es mejor usar turba rubia, que tiene un pH ácido. 60% arena y 40% turba rubia (foto superior derecha).
11. Otra opción a las mezclas es usar arena sola. Tiene la ventaja de que es más difícil que proliferen hongos y las raíces salen muy rápidamente. Se trata de apoyar el extremo del esqueje en la arena. Ésta se humedece cada semana, pero al secarse con rapidez la capa superior impide que la planta se pudra. Si ves que se cae, entutóralo atándolo a una vara de plástico. Cuando enraíce, en 1 ó 2 meses, se trasplanta a un sustrato de los anteriores.
12. Si no te decantas por el método de apoyarlo sobre arena y aplicas el de turba y arena, haz un hueco en el sustrato con un palito o lápiz de 2 a 5 cm. de profundidad (según el tamaño del esqueje) e introduce dicho esqueje. No aprietes el sustrato, es bueno que quede una especie de cámara de aire para las raicillas o cuando menos, que quede sueltecito, sin apelmazar.
NO claves nunca los esquejes directamente, haz el hoyito previo como digo, ya que los granos de arena arañan la piel y por ahí infectan los hongos.
13. Ponlo en un lugar luminoso, sin sol directo, y cálido.
14. No riegues los primeros 15 días. Mantén simplemente húmedo el sustrato nebulizando agua sobre él y sobre los esquejes, no empapado.
15. Entre 2 y 6 semanas el esqueje habrá enraizado y ya se podrá trasplantar a macetas individuales con sustrato para Cactus.
16. Si pasado este tiempo no parece que haya agarrado o si ves que la base se está pudriendo, haz un nuevo corte más arriba y vuelve a colocarlo tras esperar una semana a que se seque el corte.
Hijuelos
A muchos Cactus y Crasas le salen hijuelos en la base, por ejemplo, los Cactus del géneroEchinopsis.
Puedes separarlos de la planta madre haciendo palanca y ayudándote con un palito para que se desprendan con parte de sus raíces.
La época mejor es en primavera y principios de verano. En otro momento del año también puede funcionar, pero con mayores riesgos de que no agarre.
En las zonas de la herida del hijuelo y de la planta madre, se puede poner un poco de canela en polvo o un fungicida para evitar hongos.
Deja que se seque la zona una semana o más y plántalos en macetas individuales más bien pequeñas.
No riegues apenas al principio, hasta que agarren.
División de mata
Es otro método sencillo válido para ciertos Cactus y Suculentas que forman una mata.
Consiste simplemente en separar la mata que tiene numeros vástagos, llevando tierra y raíces en cada porción y plantar cada trozo en macetas individuales o en la tierra.
• Semillas
• Esquejes
• Hijuelos
• División de mata
• Injerto
El cultivo in vitro no está al alcance del aficionado por los equipos necesarios y el acodo en Suculentas es raro.
En este artículo vamos a ver 3 de ellos: esquejes, división de mata e hijuelos. Por semillas y por injerto se explican en páginas aparte.
Esquejes de cactus y suculentas
1. ¿Por qué hacer esquejes de Crasas?
• Es una manera fácil y frecuente de multiplicar plantas.
• Mediante esquejes se obtienen nuevos ejemplares en menos tiempo que por semilla.
• Hay Cactus y otras Crasas que no se pueden reproducir por semillaporque carecen de flores o porque éstas son estériles y necesariamente hay que aplicar alguno de los demás métodos: esquejado, hijuelos, división o injerto.
• Las plantas variegatas o variegadas poseen una anomalía genética consistente en la falta total o parcial del pigmento clorofila. Estéticamente puede resultar atractivo este carácter y para mantenerlo en la descendencia es preciso recurrir al esquejado, ya que por semillas, no saldría.
2. Tipos de esquejes
• Esquejes de hoja
Hacer esquejes de hoja es muy sencillo. Por ejemplo, en Echeveria spp., Graptopetalum paraguayense, Crassula arborescens, muchas especies Crasuláceas o del género Sedum...
Corta hojas desde su insercción.
Deja que se sequen las heridas al menos 7 días.
Introduce 1 centímetro o así en el sustrato.
Aproximadamente al cabo del mes aparece unas hojitas de la nueva planta unida a la hoja madre. Seguirá creciendo hasta hacerse un ejemplar nuevo.
Las hojas de Sedum rubrotinctum, por ejemplo, caen sobre la tierra o sobre el tiesto y arraigan solas; se llena de plántulas su alrededor con el tiempo. Al Kalanchoe daigremontiana le ocurre lo mismo, pero con una morfología muy original de hojas que tiene en los bordes brotes-plántulas, que caen y dan lugar a nuevas plantas.
• Esquejes de tallo
Los esquejes consisten en trozos de tallo sin raíces, como el del Trichocereus de la foto de abajo.
Unas especies agarran más fácilmente y otras fallan bastante. Por ejemplo, las Stapelias tienden fácilmente a pudrirse por el corte; las Euforbias también son delicadas y hay que tener paciencia. Etc.
2. Epoca para esquejar
La mejor época para efectuar todo tipo de esquejes va desde la primavera hasta principios de verano. Es un periodo en el que la planta recupera su vitalidad y el esqueje enraiza con facilidad. Además, la planta madre produce nuevos brotes y sigue creciendo.
En verano u otoño las probabilidades de que el esqueje falle aumentan. En un invernadero o en un interior se pueden controlar las temperaturas hasta cierto punto.
Nunca plantes esquejes en invierno, espera a primavera. Si ya están cortados, pueden aguantar perfectamente varios meses sin plantar hasta primavera, aunque se arruguen.
3. Los pasos
1. Los esquejes han de hacerse de plantas madre ya desarrolladas, que tengan varios años de edad.
2. Si fuera un Cactus, usa guantes y envuelve el ejemplar con un trapo o periódicos para cogerlo.
3. Corta los esquejes limpiamente con un cuchillo perfectamente afilado y desinfectado con alcohol. Si desgarras los tejidos, es más difícil que echen raíces.
4. Recubre la herida dejada a la planta madre con ceniza, canela en polvo o espolvorea con un fungicida polivalente comercial con efecto antibotritis. Cualquiera de estos métodos sirven para evitar los hongos.
5. Antes de plantar el esqueje, es fundamental que dejes secar totalmente la herida. Guarda los esquejes en un lugar a la sombra, en posición horizontal. Si se trata de especies de gran tamaño se pueden dejar al exterior. El tiempo es variable, pero como mínimo 7 días y para Cactus y Euforbias está bien 15 días o llegar al mes, no hay problema porque tienen reservas. Con el corte seco ya estará listo para ser plantado.
6. Puedes impregnar la base del esqueje con polvos de hormonas de enraizamiento con el fin de estimular la salida de raíces. No es imprescindible, pero ayuda. Algunas hormonas tienen efecto fungicida añadido para proteger de hongos. La emisión de raíces es más rápida cuando se usan, pero repito que no son indispensables.
7. Prepara macetas o bandejas con agujeros de drenaje grandes. Pon una capa de grava en el fondo. Tiene que drenar a la perfección para que no se pudran.
8. Rellénalas de sustrato muy esponjoso y aireado.
9. Venden sustratos especiales para Cactus que son en general, recomendables y evitan engorros. Si lo haces tú, una mezcla válida y sencilla sería turba negra + arena gruesa de río mitad y mitad. La arena demasiado fina no vale porque se apelmaza.
Es recomendable desinfectar previamente el sustrato, por ejemplo, metiéndolo en el microondas o en el horno.
10. Los cactus epifíticos (géneros Rhipsalis, Epiphyllum) viven en selvas húmedas tropicales y requieren pH ácido, por lo que en lugar de turba negra, es mejor usar turba rubia, que tiene un pH ácido. 60% arena y 40% turba rubia (foto superior derecha).
11. Otra opción a las mezclas es usar arena sola. Tiene la ventaja de que es más difícil que proliferen hongos y las raíces salen muy rápidamente. Se trata de apoyar el extremo del esqueje en la arena. Ésta se humedece cada semana, pero al secarse con rapidez la capa superior impide que la planta se pudra. Si ves que se cae, entutóralo atándolo a una vara de plástico. Cuando enraíce, en 1 ó 2 meses, se trasplanta a un sustrato de los anteriores.
12. Si no te decantas por el método de apoyarlo sobre arena y aplicas el de turba y arena, haz un hueco en el sustrato con un palito o lápiz de 2 a 5 cm. de profundidad (según el tamaño del esqueje) e introduce dicho esqueje. No aprietes el sustrato, es bueno que quede una especie de cámara de aire para las raicillas o cuando menos, que quede sueltecito, sin apelmazar.
NO claves nunca los esquejes directamente, haz el hoyito previo como digo, ya que los granos de arena arañan la piel y por ahí infectan los hongos.
13. Ponlo en un lugar luminoso, sin sol directo, y cálido.
14. No riegues los primeros 15 días. Mantén simplemente húmedo el sustrato nebulizando agua sobre él y sobre los esquejes, no empapado.
15. Entre 2 y 6 semanas el esqueje habrá enraizado y ya se podrá trasplantar a macetas individuales con sustrato para Cactus.
16. Si pasado este tiempo no parece que haya agarrado o si ves que la base se está pudriendo, haz un nuevo corte más arriba y vuelve a colocarlo tras esperar una semana a que se seque el corte.
Hijuelos
A muchos Cactus y Crasas le salen hijuelos en la base, por ejemplo, los Cactus del géneroEchinopsis.
Puedes separarlos de la planta madre haciendo palanca y ayudándote con un palito para que se desprendan con parte de sus raíces.
La época mejor es en primavera y principios de verano. En otro momento del año también puede funcionar, pero con mayores riesgos de que no agarre.
En las zonas de la herida del hijuelo y de la planta madre, se puede poner un poco de canela en polvo o un fungicida para evitar hongos.
Deja que se seque la zona una semana o más y plántalos en macetas individuales más bien pequeñas.
No riegues apenas al principio, hasta que agarren.
División de mata
Es otro método sencillo válido para ciertos Cactus y Suculentas que forman una mata.
Consiste simplemente en separar la mata que tiene numeros vástagos, llevando tierra y raíces en cada porción y plantar cada trozo en macetas individuales o en la tierra.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月26日
La multiplicación de las Plantas Crasas (entre las que se incluyen los Cactus) es una forma fácil y barata de ampliar tu colección.
Los posibles métodos son:
• Semillas
• Esquejes
• División de mata
• Hijuelos
• Injerto
En este artículo vamos a ver el primero de ellos: POR SEMILLA.
La multiplicación de cactus y otras Suculentas mediante semillas es algo apasionante. Requiere paciencia, pero es muy bonito.
Hay que tener claro que cuando se multiplica un vegetal por semillas el resultado no es una planta idéntica a sus padres, se parecerá, pero puede que no conserve las buenas características de ellos. Sin embargo, por esquejes, sale un individuo exacto a la planta madre, es un clon.
La utilidad de hacerlo por semilla es que hay especies que sólo se pueden reproducir por este método. También se usa para conseguir híbridos, es decir, cruzar dos especies distintas para obtener una nueva, el híbrido.
El producir híbridos de cactus es para lograr una mayor, más temprana y duradera floración, así como alcanzar una coloración y tamaño de la flor lo más atrayentes posibles. Los viveristas productores buscan nuevos híbridos más atractivos para el mercado.
Para hibridar se recurre a la polinización manual en lugar de por insectos o por viento. Se usa un pincel pequeño. Hay que limpiarlo en cada cambio de especie a polinizar. La mejor hora para realizar la polinización es a mediodía, que es cuando las plantas producen más polen. Aunque en las especies de floración nocturna se tiene que hacer a primeras horas de la mañana. De los frutos obtenidos, al madurar, se sacan las semillas.
1. ¿Cómo conseguir las semillas?
Son muy frecuentes los fracasos en la siembra por usar semillas que no fueron fertilizadas en su momento en el proceso natural, porque eran viejas o porque han estado mal conservadas.
Las semillas de cactus por lo general tienen una buena viabilidad durante un año, y pueden seguir germinando durante 2 ó 3 años más, pero con un porcentaje de éxito cada vez menor.
Para conseguir semillas tienes varias opciones:
1.Utilizar semillas de cosecha propia. Debes esperar a que los frutos estén completamente maduros (lo sabrás si se desprenden fácilmente), si no, las semillas no están bien maduras. Déjalos secar en un lugar seco y no demasiado caluroso y desmenuza los frutos para sacar las semillas. Si contienen pulpa es muy importante quitarla y pasar las semillas varias veces por agua; si quedan restos de pulpa serán focos de hongos. Guarda las semillas en un sobre de papel, con el nombre de la especie y la fecha de recolección. Un buen sitio donde resguardarlas hasta el momento de la siembra es en la nevera, en el apartado de las frutas y verduras, ya que la temperatura suele ser menos fría.
2.Otra opción para conseguir semillas es pedirlas o intercambiar con un amigo, en asociaciones, clubes, etc.
3.Comprarlas en un sitio de confianza que no lleven demasiado tiempo cosechadas. Los sobres de semillas de cactus que venden en las floristerías fallan bastante.
2. Epoca de siembra
La mejor época para sembrar típica y normal es primavera, también el verano. Por lo tanto hay que conservar las semillas hasta ese momento (en la nevera, apartado de verduras). En otoño e invierno también se pueden hacer siembras, pero a condición de disponer de calefacción y, eventualmente, de luz artificial para cuando germinen. Un sistema de calefacción es el de los semilleros eléctricos.
La temperatura requerida para la germinación de los cactus y las otras plantas suculentas varía con las especies y oscila entre 21 y 30ª C. Temperaturas más bajas o más altas hacen que no salga nada. Por ejemplo, los grusonii necesitan mucho calor para germinar, alrededor de 30º.
Una posibilidad es sembrar escalonadamente, con una semana, diez días de diferencia, etc., en lugar de todo junto, ya que así hay mas posibilidades de que al menos una parte encuentre buenas condiciones de germinación-nascencia.
3. Sustratos
Es fundamental que sea poroso y con un buen drenaje, de lo contrario las raices se pudrirían.
Venden mezclas ya preparadas para Cactáceas y Crasas en general, pero también la puedes hacerla tú perfectamente. Una buena mezcla sería:
50% de mantillo muy hecho, pasado con una malla de 2-3mm para separar lo grueso y evitando así la presencia de grandes restos orgánicos que pueden causar problemas a las plantulas.
40% de arena de río lavada.
10% parte de turba rubia, si no tienes o no la encuentras, usa turba negra.
Mézclalo todo bien para que quede homogéneo.
Hay gente que esteriliza estos materiales y otras que no y le va estupendamente. Lo aconsejable es hacerlo para disminuir los riesgos de infección por hongos, pero ya digo que no es indispensable ni mucho menos.
El sustrato ya preparado se puede esterilizar metiéndolo en el microondas o en un horno común. La arena, con agua hirviendo, también vale.
4. Recipientes
• Una tarrina o potes de plástico. Al ser recipientes pequeños se minimizan las perdidas en caso de ataque de hongos. Por ejemplo, macetas de plástico de 7 cm de diámetro son ideales. Sobre las macetas o recipientes de plástico se pone una tapa transparente o una bolsa cerrada de plástico.
• Cajas de propagación o "mini-invernaderos". Poseen una cubierta de cristal o de plástico y muchos están dotadas de calefacción de fondo mediante cables que se enchufan a la red eléctrica. Esto permite tener temperatura para hacer siembras en otoño e invierno.
• Bandejas de alveolos, etc.
Es fundamental que el contenedor este perforado en el fondo para que salga el exceso de agua.
5. Proceso de siembra
1. Llena el recipiente con la mezcla hasta 1 cm del borde.
2. Para un drenaje perfecto y para que no se vuelque con el peso, pon el fondo piedritas y rellena los intersticios con arena gruesa. En lugar de piedrecitas puedes usar puzolana, también llamada grava volcánica.
3. Mete el recipiente en otro con agua para que absorba el agua por el agujero de drenaje y suba hasta la superficie por capilaridad. Una vez que llega ahí, retira el recipiente. Al drenar puede hacer que el nivel del sustrato baje; entonces echa más mezcla y repite la operación de riego por capilaridad. Ya está listo para sembrar.
4. Esparce las semillas lo mas uniformemente posible. Para semillas muy pequeñas como las de cactus, de Kalanchoes, de ciertas Crasuláceas, etc., usa una cucharilla o un papel doblado y puestas en la doblez y dale golpecitos.
5. Cúbrelas con una fina capa de arena de 2-3 milímetros de arena o bien, con una pequeña espátula, presiona para hundirlas ligeramente en el sustrato húmedo.
6. Cubre con una tapa de plástico o con un plástico transparente. Esto ayuda a mantener la humedad del sustrato y no tener que estar regando (rociando) con tanta frecuencia. Además, permite una temperatura homogénea, cálida y evita las corrientes de aire. Al tener una cubierta (tapa) transparente controlas la germinación sin necesidad de abrir.
7. Riega para mantenerlo húmedo, pero sin exceso. El método en esta fase de germinación puede ser por capilaridad, o sea, poniendo los tiestos en un plato o bandeja llena de agua y esperar que la tierra vaya absorbiéndola por los agujeros de drenaje, dándose por finalizado el riego en el momento en que se observe humedad en la superficie de la tierra. Otro sistema válido es regar pausadamente la tierra con la ayuda de un pulverizador.
8. Más o menos al mes después de germinar, practica unos agujeros en las tapas o en el plástico para prevenir la aparición de hongos.
9. Conviene ir abriendo progresivamente el semillero, 15 minutos al día durante una semana, por ejemplo, aumentando progresivamente los tiempos.
10. Cada 15 días diluye un fungicida en el riego para no tener problemas de hongos.
11. El riego debe ser frecuente porque las raíces son frágiles y si se seca quizás no se recupere. El enrojecimiento de las plántulas suele ser señal de falta de agua así como que las plántulas empiecen a perder tamaño. Pero sin pasarse con el agua.
12. Viene bien algo de abono cada 15 días. Venden abonos especialmente formulados para cactus y demás Suculentas. Aporta la mitad de la dosis recomendada por el fabricante.
13. Es importante que durante este período los pequeños cactus o Crasas no reciban luz solar directa ya que aumentaría el riesgo de deshidratación. Una sombra parcial en un invernadero o colocados cerca de una ventana en la que solo de el sol por la mañana o cualquier otra ventana si ponemos un pequeño parasol será lo mejor.
14. Finalmente, cuando veas que ya están fuertes y no corren peligro, quita completamente la cubierta y deja las plantitas al aire.
15. Trasplante
El transplante a macetas individuales hay que hacerlo cuando las plantulas están bastante desarrolladas y no corren riesgos. Pueden ser meses, 1 año... depende de la especie. O incluso quedarse ahí sin trasplantar durante años debido al lentísimo crecimiento o la poca talla de las plantas.
El trasplante es un momento bastante delicado porque las plantas sufren un estrés importante.
Los posibles métodos son:
• Semillas
• Esquejes
• División de mata
• Hijuelos
• Injerto
En este artículo vamos a ver el primero de ellos: POR SEMILLA.
La multiplicación de cactus y otras Suculentas mediante semillas es algo apasionante. Requiere paciencia, pero es muy bonito.
Hay que tener claro que cuando se multiplica un vegetal por semillas el resultado no es una planta idéntica a sus padres, se parecerá, pero puede que no conserve las buenas características de ellos. Sin embargo, por esquejes, sale un individuo exacto a la planta madre, es un clon.
La utilidad de hacerlo por semilla es que hay especies que sólo se pueden reproducir por este método. También se usa para conseguir híbridos, es decir, cruzar dos especies distintas para obtener una nueva, el híbrido.
El producir híbridos de cactus es para lograr una mayor, más temprana y duradera floración, así como alcanzar una coloración y tamaño de la flor lo más atrayentes posibles. Los viveristas productores buscan nuevos híbridos más atractivos para el mercado.
Para hibridar se recurre a la polinización manual en lugar de por insectos o por viento. Se usa un pincel pequeño. Hay que limpiarlo en cada cambio de especie a polinizar. La mejor hora para realizar la polinización es a mediodía, que es cuando las plantas producen más polen. Aunque en las especies de floración nocturna se tiene que hacer a primeras horas de la mañana. De los frutos obtenidos, al madurar, se sacan las semillas.
1. ¿Cómo conseguir las semillas?
Son muy frecuentes los fracasos en la siembra por usar semillas que no fueron fertilizadas en su momento en el proceso natural, porque eran viejas o porque han estado mal conservadas.
Las semillas de cactus por lo general tienen una buena viabilidad durante un año, y pueden seguir germinando durante 2 ó 3 años más, pero con un porcentaje de éxito cada vez menor.
Para conseguir semillas tienes varias opciones:
1.Utilizar semillas de cosecha propia. Debes esperar a que los frutos estén completamente maduros (lo sabrás si se desprenden fácilmente), si no, las semillas no están bien maduras. Déjalos secar en un lugar seco y no demasiado caluroso y desmenuza los frutos para sacar las semillas. Si contienen pulpa es muy importante quitarla y pasar las semillas varias veces por agua; si quedan restos de pulpa serán focos de hongos. Guarda las semillas en un sobre de papel, con el nombre de la especie y la fecha de recolección. Un buen sitio donde resguardarlas hasta el momento de la siembra es en la nevera, en el apartado de las frutas y verduras, ya que la temperatura suele ser menos fría.
2.Otra opción para conseguir semillas es pedirlas o intercambiar con un amigo, en asociaciones, clubes, etc.
3.Comprarlas en un sitio de confianza que no lleven demasiado tiempo cosechadas. Los sobres de semillas de cactus que venden en las floristerías fallan bastante.
2. Epoca de siembra
La mejor época para sembrar típica y normal es primavera, también el verano. Por lo tanto hay que conservar las semillas hasta ese momento (en la nevera, apartado de verduras). En otoño e invierno también se pueden hacer siembras, pero a condición de disponer de calefacción y, eventualmente, de luz artificial para cuando germinen. Un sistema de calefacción es el de los semilleros eléctricos.
La temperatura requerida para la germinación de los cactus y las otras plantas suculentas varía con las especies y oscila entre 21 y 30ª C. Temperaturas más bajas o más altas hacen que no salga nada. Por ejemplo, los grusonii necesitan mucho calor para germinar, alrededor de 30º.
Una posibilidad es sembrar escalonadamente, con una semana, diez días de diferencia, etc., en lugar de todo junto, ya que así hay mas posibilidades de que al menos una parte encuentre buenas condiciones de germinación-nascencia.
3. Sustratos
Es fundamental que sea poroso y con un buen drenaje, de lo contrario las raices se pudrirían.
Venden mezclas ya preparadas para Cactáceas y Crasas en general, pero también la puedes hacerla tú perfectamente. Una buena mezcla sería:
50% de mantillo muy hecho, pasado con una malla de 2-3mm para separar lo grueso y evitando así la presencia de grandes restos orgánicos que pueden causar problemas a las plantulas.
40% de arena de río lavada.
10% parte de turba rubia, si no tienes o no la encuentras, usa turba negra.
Mézclalo todo bien para que quede homogéneo.
Hay gente que esteriliza estos materiales y otras que no y le va estupendamente. Lo aconsejable es hacerlo para disminuir los riesgos de infección por hongos, pero ya digo que no es indispensable ni mucho menos.
El sustrato ya preparado se puede esterilizar metiéndolo en el microondas o en un horno común. La arena, con agua hirviendo, también vale.
4. Recipientes
• Una tarrina o potes de plástico. Al ser recipientes pequeños se minimizan las perdidas en caso de ataque de hongos. Por ejemplo, macetas de plástico de 7 cm de diámetro son ideales. Sobre las macetas o recipientes de plástico se pone una tapa transparente o una bolsa cerrada de plástico.
• Cajas de propagación o "mini-invernaderos". Poseen una cubierta de cristal o de plástico y muchos están dotadas de calefacción de fondo mediante cables que se enchufan a la red eléctrica. Esto permite tener temperatura para hacer siembras en otoño e invierno.
• Bandejas de alveolos, etc.
Es fundamental que el contenedor este perforado en el fondo para que salga el exceso de agua.
5. Proceso de siembra
1. Llena el recipiente con la mezcla hasta 1 cm del borde.
2. Para un drenaje perfecto y para que no se vuelque con el peso, pon el fondo piedritas y rellena los intersticios con arena gruesa. En lugar de piedrecitas puedes usar puzolana, también llamada grava volcánica.
3. Mete el recipiente en otro con agua para que absorba el agua por el agujero de drenaje y suba hasta la superficie por capilaridad. Una vez que llega ahí, retira el recipiente. Al drenar puede hacer que el nivel del sustrato baje; entonces echa más mezcla y repite la operación de riego por capilaridad. Ya está listo para sembrar.
4. Esparce las semillas lo mas uniformemente posible. Para semillas muy pequeñas como las de cactus, de Kalanchoes, de ciertas Crasuláceas, etc., usa una cucharilla o un papel doblado y puestas en la doblez y dale golpecitos.
5. Cúbrelas con una fina capa de arena de 2-3 milímetros de arena o bien, con una pequeña espátula, presiona para hundirlas ligeramente en el sustrato húmedo.
6. Cubre con una tapa de plástico o con un plástico transparente. Esto ayuda a mantener la humedad del sustrato y no tener que estar regando (rociando) con tanta frecuencia. Además, permite una temperatura homogénea, cálida y evita las corrientes de aire. Al tener una cubierta (tapa) transparente controlas la germinación sin necesidad de abrir.
7. Riega para mantenerlo húmedo, pero sin exceso. El método en esta fase de germinación puede ser por capilaridad, o sea, poniendo los tiestos en un plato o bandeja llena de agua y esperar que la tierra vaya absorbiéndola por los agujeros de drenaje, dándose por finalizado el riego en el momento en que se observe humedad en la superficie de la tierra. Otro sistema válido es regar pausadamente la tierra con la ayuda de un pulverizador.
8. Más o menos al mes después de germinar, practica unos agujeros en las tapas o en el plástico para prevenir la aparición de hongos.
9. Conviene ir abriendo progresivamente el semillero, 15 minutos al día durante una semana, por ejemplo, aumentando progresivamente los tiempos.
10. Cada 15 días diluye un fungicida en el riego para no tener problemas de hongos.
11. El riego debe ser frecuente porque las raíces son frágiles y si se seca quizás no se recupere. El enrojecimiento de las plántulas suele ser señal de falta de agua así como que las plántulas empiecen a perder tamaño. Pero sin pasarse con el agua.
12. Viene bien algo de abono cada 15 días. Venden abonos especialmente formulados para cactus y demás Suculentas. Aporta la mitad de la dosis recomendada por el fabricante.
13. Es importante que durante este período los pequeños cactus o Crasas no reciban luz solar directa ya que aumentaría el riesgo de deshidratación. Una sombra parcial en un invernadero o colocados cerca de una ventana en la que solo de el sol por la mañana o cualquier otra ventana si ponemos un pequeño parasol será lo mejor.
14. Finalmente, cuando veas que ya están fuertes y no corren peligro, quita completamente la cubierta y deja las plantitas al aire.
15. Trasplante
El transplante a macetas individuales hay que hacerlo cuando las plantulas están bastante desarrolladas y no corren riesgos. Pueden ser meses, 1 año... depende de la especie. O incluso quedarse ahí sin trasplantar durante años debido al lentísimo crecimiento o la poca talla de las plantas.
El trasplante es un momento bastante delicado porque las plantas sufren un estrés importante.
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成长记
Frajille
2017年08月25日
I new added a "Mini Cinnamon Cactus (Opuntia Rufida Minima Monstrose)" in my "garden"
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
The vast array of sizes, textures, colors and shapes of cacti and succulents provides nearly endless diversity for the succulent collector. Moon cactus plants are known as Gymnocalycium mihanovichii or Hibotan cactus. Strangely, the plant is something of a mutant and lacks the ability to produce chlorophyll, which means they must be grafted onto a rootstock with that ability. Instructions for how to grow a moon cactus are similar to most succulents, but they are short lived for the family even with good care.
Moon Cactus Info
Hibotan cacti are native to desert habitats in various parts of South America. There are over 80 species found in Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil and Bolivia. They are a colorful group of succulents that lack the necessary chlorophyll to produce plant sugars through photosynthesis. For this reason, the plants are grafted onto a species that produces plentiful chlorophyll upon which the moon cactus can sustain itself for several years. Moon cactus plants come in vibrant bright colors of hot pink, brilliant orange and even an almost neon yellow. They are commonly sold as gift plants and make lovely window box or southern exposure houseplants. These are small plants, generally only ½ inch across, although there are cultivars that get up to 8 inches in diameter.
Propagation of Moon Cactus
The moon cactus is usually sold already grafted in a process that removes the bottom of the Hibotan and the top of the rootstock cactus. The two halves are set together at the cut ends and soon heal together. The life of the moon cactus can be extended by re-grafting it onto a fresh rootstock. It can also be grown from seed, but this takes at least a year for a recognizable specimen. Sow the seeds over a dry succulent mixture and then cover with a sprinkle of fine grit. Moisten the flat and move it to a warm location for germination. Once the seedlings are large enough to remove, re-plant them in groups for best effect. More commonly, moon cactus propagation is achieved by removing the offsets, which are smaller versions of the parent plant growing from the base of the rootstock. These divide away easily and root readily in a cactus potting soil.
How to Grow a Moon Cactus
Purchased plants will come with moon cactus info that relates to the plants care and cultivation needs. In the event that it doesn’t, care of moon cactus is similar to any succulent or cactus species. Hibotan plants prefer temperatures on the warm side but need a minimum of 48 F. (9 C.) to survive. Wild plants grow in the shelter of taller specimens which shade them from the scorching sun, so indoor plants should be partially shielded from bright sunlight by slatted blinds during the brightest part of the day. Use unglazed shallow pots with numerous drainage holes to prevent standing water at the root zone. Water deeply and then allow the soil to completely dry to the base of the pot before reapplying moisture. Suspend watering in the winter months and repot in spring to reintroduce nutrient dense soil. The moon cactus prefers to have a crowded home, which means you can repot in the same pot for several years. In rare cases, and when care of moon cactus is optimum, you may be rewarded with small red to pink flowers in late spring to early summer.
Moon Cactus Info
Hibotan cacti are native to desert habitats in various parts of South America. There are over 80 species found in Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil and Bolivia. They are a colorful group of succulents that lack the necessary chlorophyll to produce plant sugars through photosynthesis. For this reason, the plants are grafted onto a species that produces plentiful chlorophyll upon which the moon cactus can sustain itself for several years. Moon cactus plants come in vibrant bright colors of hot pink, brilliant orange and even an almost neon yellow. They are commonly sold as gift plants and make lovely window box or southern exposure houseplants. These are small plants, generally only ½ inch across, although there are cultivars that get up to 8 inches in diameter.
Propagation of Moon Cactus
The moon cactus is usually sold already grafted in a process that removes the bottom of the Hibotan and the top of the rootstock cactus. The two halves are set together at the cut ends and soon heal together. The life of the moon cactus can be extended by re-grafting it onto a fresh rootstock. It can also be grown from seed, but this takes at least a year for a recognizable specimen. Sow the seeds over a dry succulent mixture and then cover with a sprinkle of fine grit. Moisten the flat and move it to a warm location for germination. Once the seedlings are large enough to remove, re-plant them in groups for best effect. More commonly, moon cactus propagation is achieved by removing the offsets, which are smaller versions of the parent plant growing from the base of the rootstock. These divide away easily and root readily in a cactus potting soil.
How to Grow a Moon Cactus
Purchased plants will come with moon cactus info that relates to the plants care and cultivation needs. In the event that it doesn’t, care of moon cactus is similar to any succulent or cactus species. Hibotan plants prefer temperatures on the warm side but need a minimum of 48 F. (9 C.) to survive. Wild plants grow in the shelter of taller specimens which shade them from the scorching sun, so indoor plants should be partially shielded from bright sunlight by slatted blinds during the brightest part of the day. Use unglazed shallow pots with numerous drainage holes to prevent standing water at the root zone. Water deeply and then allow the soil to completely dry to the base of the pot before reapplying moisture. Suspend watering in the winter months and repot in spring to reintroduce nutrient dense soil. The moon cactus prefers to have a crowded home, which means you can repot in the same pot for several years. In rare cases, and when care of moon cactus is optimum, you may be rewarded with small red to pink flowers in late spring to early summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Moon cactus make popular houseplants. They are the result of grafting two different plants to achieve the colorful top part, which is due to a mutation in that grafted part. When should moon cactus be repotted? Spring is the best time for repotting moon cactus, although the cactus prefers to be rather crowded and doesn’t require a new container more than every few years. New soil, however, is beneficial, as the old soil will lose nutrients and texture over time.
Should Moon Cactus be Repotted?
Most moon cactus plants are the result of grafting Gymnocalycium mihanovichii to a base of Hylocereus. The Hylocereus is a chlorophyll producing plant while the Gymnocalycium does not produce its own chlorophyll and requires the assistance of the Hylocereus to produce food. These tiny cacti do not require repotting very frequently, but you should know when and how to repot moon cactus at least every 3 to 4 years. Cactus plants generally grow in inhospitable terrain with low fertility soil and rocky medium. They can wedge themselves into cracks and crevices with little wiggle room for roots and seem to like it that way. Similarly, a potted cactus enjoys some crowding and only needs an inch or so between itself and the container edge. The usual reason for moon cactus repotting is to change the soil. If the plant needs a new container, it will begin to show roots out of the drainage holes. This is a sign that a new slightly larger container is required to allow the plant to grow further. Choose containers that drain well and are not glazed. This is to allow any excess moisture to evaporate, an important consideration in cactus.
How to Repot a Moon Cactus
As mentioned, spring is the best time to repot cactus. This is because they are actively beginning to grow and root development is starting back up, which leads to a successful transplant. Once you have your container for repotting moon cactus, it is time to turn your attention to the new soil. A general cactus mix is sufficient but many growers have better success when they create their own moon cactus potting mix. Equal parts of a peat-based potting soil mixed with coarse sand makes an excellent and well-draining medium. Many gardeners also add some fine gravel to the bottom of the container to enhance drainage. Fill the container half way with your moon cactus potting mixture and lightly moisten it. A couple of days before repotting your cactus, water it well so the roots are moistened. Use gloves if you are worried about the little plant’s spines and carefully remove it from its container. Insert the plant at the same level at which it was growing and gently pack more of the medium around the roots. Leave enough room at the top of the container so water doesn’t spill over. Add a thin layer of gravel or sand as a mulch to the top of the container. Wait a week before watering the newly planted cactus. Water the cactus when the top inch of soil is dry during the growing season but only once every 2 or 3 weeks in winter. Apply fertilizer in spring, such as a 5-10-10 every 2 to 3 months and suspend fertilizing in winter when the plant is not actively growing.
Should Moon Cactus be Repotted?
Most moon cactus plants are the result of grafting Gymnocalycium mihanovichii to a base of Hylocereus. The Hylocereus is a chlorophyll producing plant while the Gymnocalycium does not produce its own chlorophyll and requires the assistance of the Hylocereus to produce food. These tiny cacti do not require repotting very frequently, but you should know when and how to repot moon cactus at least every 3 to 4 years. Cactus plants generally grow in inhospitable terrain with low fertility soil and rocky medium. They can wedge themselves into cracks and crevices with little wiggle room for roots and seem to like it that way. Similarly, a potted cactus enjoys some crowding and only needs an inch or so between itself and the container edge. The usual reason for moon cactus repotting is to change the soil. If the plant needs a new container, it will begin to show roots out of the drainage holes. This is a sign that a new slightly larger container is required to allow the plant to grow further. Choose containers that drain well and are not glazed. This is to allow any excess moisture to evaporate, an important consideration in cactus.
How to Repot a Moon Cactus
As mentioned, spring is the best time to repot cactus. This is because they are actively beginning to grow and root development is starting back up, which leads to a successful transplant. Once you have your container for repotting moon cactus, it is time to turn your attention to the new soil. A general cactus mix is sufficient but many growers have better success when they create their own moon cactus potting mix. Equal parts of a peat-based potting soil mixed with coarse sand makes an excellent and well-draining medium. Many gardeners also add some fine gravel to the bottom of the container to enhance drainage. Fill the container half way with your moon cactus potting mixture and lightly moisten it. A couple of days before repotting your cactus, water it well so the roots are moistened. Use gloves if you are worried about the little plant’s spines and carefully remove it from its container. Insert the plant at the same level at which it was growing and gently pack more of the medium around the roots. Leave enough room at the top of the container so water doesn’t spill over. Add a thin layer of gravel or sand as a mulch to the top of the container. Wait a week before watering the newly planted cactus. Water the cactus when the top inch of soil is dry during the growing season but only once every 2 or 3 weeks in winter. Apply fertilizer in spring, such as a 5-10-10 every 2 to 3 months and suspend fertilizing in winter when the plant is not actively growing.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
One of the sweetest and most charming cactus varieties are the Mammillaria. This family of plants is generally small, clustered and widely found as houseplants. Most types of Mammillaria are native to Mexico and the name comes from the Latin “nipple,” referring to the standard appearance of most of the plants. Mammillaria are popular plants and common in many nursery centers with ease of care and propagation counted as some of their more appealing features. Read on for more Mammillaria information and descriptions of some of the more interesting plants in the family.
Mammillaria Information
Mammillaria cactus varieties can span sizes from one inch in diameter (2.5 cm.) to one foot in height (30 cm.). The majority of the readily available species are the ground hugging variety. As interior plants, growing Mammillaria couldn’t be easier. They need well-draining soil, good light and warm temperatures. There are over 300 species of Mammillaria but most you won’t see in the nursery. The tried and true varieties that thrive as houseplants are the easiest to find and provide a glimpse into the Mexican desert. Mammillaria need a cooling period to promote blooming. Flowers are funnel shaped in colors of yellow, pink, red, green and white. The family name stems from the nipple-shaped tubercles which are spirally arranged. The areoles, from which spines grow, can produce hair like or wooly spines that are either stiff or soft and in a range of colors. The arrangement of spines per species gives a wide variety of appearances as do the many flower colors produced by the plants. Mammillaria cactus plants bear spines that are arranged according to the Fibonacci sequence, which states that each lower row of tubercles equals the sum of the previous two rows. This rule gives the plants an orderly patterned appearance when viewed from above.
Growing Mammillaria Cactus
Culture can vary a bit for some Mammillaria species due to differences in their native range. However, most require a small well-draining shallow container, cactus mix or a blend of potting soil and sand, and moderately dry soil except during the growing season. The light should be bright but not of the hottest, searing rays of midday. Supplemental fertilizing is not necessary but some cactus food applied in spring when active growth resumes can help produce healthier plants. These are easy plants to propagate from seed or by dividing offsets. The most common issues are the result of excess moisture and can cause rot. Mealybugs and scale may be irritating pests.
Mammillaria Cactus Varieties
Mammillaria cactus plants have many colorful names which are descriptive of their appearance. One of the cutest types of Mammillaria it the Powder Puff cactus. It has the appearance of soft, fluffy hair adorning the small body but be wary – that stuff will get into skin and leave painful impressions. Similarly, the Feather cactus has a whitish gray, soft cloud of spines that grows a thick cluster of offsets. There are several species of plant called the Pincushion cactus. These produce either flat, cylindrical or conical tubercles, depending upon species. Some of the other interesting common names in the family are: Mother of Hundreds Golden Stars (Lady Fingers) Old Lady Cactus Woolly Nipple Cactus Counter Clockwise Fishhook Thimble Cactus Mexican Claret Cup Strawberry Cactus Cushion Foxtail Cactus Silver Lace Cob Cactus Elephant’s Tooth Owl’s Eyes
Mammillaria Information
Mammillaria cactus varieties can span sizes from one inch in diameter (2.5 cm.) to one foot in height (30 cm.). The majority of the readily available species are the ground hugging variety. As interior plants, growing Mammillaria couldn’t be easier. They need well-draining soil, good light and warm temperatures. There are over 300 species of Mammillaria but most you won’t see in the nursery. The tried and true varieties that thrive as houseplants are the easiest to find and provide a glimpse into the Mexican desert. Mammillaria need a cooling period to promote blooming. Flowers are funnel shaped in colors of yellow, pink, red, green and white. The family name stems from the nipple-shaped tubercles which are spirally arranged. The areoles, from which spines grow, can produce hair like or wooly spines that are either stiff or soft and in a range of colors. The arrangement of spines per species gives a wide variety of appearances as do the many flower colors produced by the plants. Mammillaria cactus plants bear spines that are arranged according to the Fibonacci sequence, which states that each lower row of tubercles equals the sum of the previous two rows. This rule gives the plants an orderly patterned appearance when viewed from above.
Growing Mammillaria Cactus
Culture can vary a bit for some Mammillaria species due to differences in their native range. However, most require a small well-draining shallow container, cactus mix or a blend of potting soil and sand, and moderately dry soil except during the growing season. The light should be bright but not of the hottest, searing rays of midday. Supplemental fertilizing is not necessary but some cactus food applied in spring when active growth resumes can help produce healthier plants. These are easy plants to propagate from seed or by dividing offsets. The most common issues are the result of excess moisture and can cause rot. Mealybugs and scale may be irritating pests.
Mammillaria Cactus Varieties
Mammillaria cactus plants have many colorful names which are descriptive of their appearance. One of the cutest types of Mammillaria it the Powder Puff cactus. It has the appearance of soft, fluffy hair adorning the small body but be wary – that stuff will get into skin and leave painful impressions. Similarly, the Feather cactus has a whitish gray, soft cloud of spines that grows a thick cluster of offsets. There are several species of plant called the Pincushion cactus. These produce either flat, cylindrical or conical tubercles, depending upon species. Some of the other interesting common names in the family are: Mother of Hundreds Golden Stars (Lady Fingers) Old Lady Cactus Woolly Nipple Cactus Counter Clockwise Fishhook Thimble Cactus Mexican Claret Cup Strawberry Cactus Cushion Foxtail Cactus Silver Lace Cob Cactus Elephant’s Tooth Owl’s Eyes
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
What’s in a name? In the case of brain cactus, a fascinating plant, albeit with a very descriptive name. One of the many species of Mammillaria, Cristata is the form known as brain cactus. It is an easy to grow cactus which often produces lovely little blooms and makes a great houseplant or outdoor specimen in warmer climates. Read on for some Cristata information along with care and growing tips.
What is Brain Cactus?
Mammillaria elongata ‘Cristata’ is also colorfully named the brain cactus due to its convoluted and sinuous growth. One of the more bizarre pieces of Cristata information is how the shape occurs. The form is a result of damage to the plant when it is young. The cells at the injury site go crazy and multiply at a far faster rate than normal. This causes the twisted nature of the pads. Brain cactus is a common houseplant and in cultivation, this “damage” is manually manipulated to create the fan-like growth. The brain cactus is generally a small plant, only achieving 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in height. They are chubby little guys with waistband widths of 12 inches across (31 cm.). In the wild of Central Mexico, they occur in rocky outcroppings and between crevasses. Over time, they develop into a column of stems and small offsets. The spines are in closely gathered areoles and consist of several sizes, with the finest spines almost hair-like. Plants are green but the hairy spines give it a grayish case.
How to Grow a Brain Cactus
These plants make fine indoor plants but can only thrive outside in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. Since they are small, try growing a brain cactus in a succulent dish with a mixture of forms and textures. You may expect blooms any time over the course of the summer which will brighten the container and add even more appeal. You may think you know all about succulent care but you don’t know how to grow a brain cactus. Most cactus are sensitive to overwatering and poor drainage, but brain cactus pads will actually trap moisture in the folds and crevasses. This can be bad in cultivation where gnats are attracted, and mold and mildew issues can instill rot and kill the plant. It is best to water from the base of the container to prevent any moisture from collecting on the body of brain cactus. If you wish to propagate the plant, there are some easy methods. Use woody stem cuttings and allow the cut end to callus over for a week. Then insert the cut end into soilless potting medium, such as lightly moistened sand. The other way is to divide the pups away from the parent plant with a clean, sterile knife. Each should also be allowed to callus and then planted into cactus mixture. Growing a brain cactus from pups results in quicker establishment and faster blooms.
Cristata Brain Cactus Care
As a succulent from arid regions, brain cactus are most sensitive to moisture. They need to be kept in a dry place with little humidity. Excess humidity can do as much damage to the plant as too much water. Consider that the region from which they hail is dry most of the year and then characterized by a short drenching rainy season. The plants then do most of their growth and flower after the rain followed by a fairly slow growth rate, almost in hibernation, until the next rainy season. Place the container in a partially sunny location where the brightest noon day rays can’t burn the plant. Allow the surface of the soil to dry to the touch before watering. In winter, water half the amount. In spring, feed with a dilution of cactus food.
What is Brain Cactus?
Mammillaria elongata ‘Cristata’ is also colorfully named the brain cactus due to its convoluted and sinuous growth. One of the more bizarre pieces of Cristata information is how the shape occurs. The form is a result of damage to the plant when it is young. The cells at the injury site go crazy and multiply at a far faster rate than normal. This causes the twisted nature of the pads. Brain cactus is a common houseplant and in cultivation, this “damage” is manually manipulated to create the fan-like growth. The brain cactus is generally a small plant, only achieving 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in height. They are chubby little guys with waistband widths of 12 inches across (31 cm.). In the wild of Central Mexico, they occur in rocky outcroppings and between crevasses. Over time, they develop into a column of stems and small offsets. The spines are in closely gathered areoles and consist of several sizes, with the finest spines almost hair-like. Plants are green but the hairy spines give it a grayish case.
How to Grow a Brain Cactus
These plants make fine indoor plants but can only thrive outside in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. Since they are small, try growing a brain cactus in a succulent dish with a mixture of forms and textures. You may expect blooms any time over the course of the summer which will brighten the container and add even more appeal. You may think you know all about succulent care but you don’t know how to grow a brain cactus. Most cactus are sensitive to overwatering and poor drainage, but brain cactus pads will actually trap moisture in the folds and crevasses. This can be bad in cultivation where gnats are attracted, and mold and mildew issues can instill rot and kill the plant. It is best to water from the base of the container to prevent any moisture from collecting on the body of brain cactus. If you wish to propagate the plant, there are some easy methods. Use woody stem cuttings and allow the cut end to callus over for a week. Then insert the cut end into soilless potting medium, such as lightly moistened sand. The other way is to divide the pups away from the parent plant with a clean, sterile knife. Each should also be allowed to callus and then planted into cactus mixture. Growing a brain cactus from pups results in quicker establishment and faster blooms.
Cristata Brain Cactus Care
As a succulent from arid regions, brain cactus are most sensitive to moisture. They need to be kept in a dry place with little humidity. Excess humidity can do as much damage to the plant as too much water. Consider that the region from which they hail is dry most of the year and then characterized by a short drenching rainy season. The plants then do most of their growth and flower after the rain followed by a fairly slow growth rate, almost in hibernation, until the next rainy season. Place the container in a partially sunny location where the brightest noon day rays can’t burn the plant. Allow the surface of the soil to dry to the touch before watering. In winter, water half the amount. In spring, feed with a dilution of cactus food.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Plant enthusiasts are always on the look-out for an unusual and amazing specimen. Huernia zebrina, or Lifesaver plant, is one of the best in this category. Lifesaver cactus plants are easy to grow in small dish gardens or even bonsai containers. The biggest challenges with Huernia cactus care are overwatering, incorrect lighting and mealybugs. Let’s go through some guidelines on how to grow a Lifesaver cactus and, hopefully, get some of the blooms for which it is named.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
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