文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Growing cacti and other succulent plants can be an addictive pastime! Cacti are collectible and are ideal for nice, sunny windowsills as are many of their succulent counterparts. Read on to learn more about growing cactus and succulent plants indoors.
Cacti and Succulent Info
Cacti are associated with the desert, and many thrive in regions of Central and South America. Other cacti, though, come from as far north as Canada, and many are even native to the rainforests. Like bromeliads, a lot of cacti are epiphytes, and the cacti that are forest dwelling species grow over forest trees. The desert-dwelling variety of cacti can survive for really long periods of time without rainfall. They get their moisture from dew or mist and store nutrients and moisture in their tissues.
The word “succulent” means “juicy.” Succulent plants have leaves or stems that are filled with juices, the stored water and nutrients that allow the plant to grow. These leaves allow the plant to withstand harsh conditions all over the world. Normally, these leaves have a glossy or leathery appearance, and the texture actually helps protect them from excessive moisture loss. Storing moisture the way they do is what defines cacti as succulents. What makes a cactus a cactus is that they grow growths, known as areoles. These are cushioned growing points that are technically compressed branches. Spines, “wool” flowers and offsets all grow from the areoles. A lot of succulents resemble cacti in every way except they don’t grow spines. This is what makes a succulent a succulent and not a cactus. In all but one genus of cactus, the Pereskia, the plants do not have leaves. The bodies of cacti are usually globular or cylindrical in shape. Opuntias have round, segmented stems. Epiphyllums have stems that look more like strap-shaped leaves. A lot of cacti have prominent spines, barbs or bristles and some have woolly hair. In fact, all cacti have spines even though they might be so small they’re insignificant. It’s not always appreciated that all cacti flower, and flower regularly if they are well-looked after.
Cacti and Succulents in the Home
There are a lot of succulent plants that can be grown in your home, and some of them are among the easiest plants to care for. They are actually great plants for beginners, but as with any gardening and houseplant growing, you have to know what you’re doing and dealing with in order to do well at growing them. Cacti and succulents make a great display, from the beautiful Nopalxochia ackermanii and the large flowers of the Epiphyllums (orchid cactus) to the weird and wonderful Astrophytum asterias (sea urchin cactus) or the hairy Cephalocereus senilis (old man cactus). It’s a shame that these plants are not cultivated more often! They are undemanding and will withstand most maltreatment except for overindulgence. Overindulgence accounts for those that are sitting around all dusty on people’s windowsills or those that are mushy and rotting from overwatering. They need bright light and fresh air, and they need a cool, dry winter rest as well. Forest cacti tend to trail and have large flowers. This makes them perfect for individual displays in hanging baskets. The desert types have interesting shapes and textures and can be highlighted in a grouped display. Planting a group of succulents or cacti in one larger bowl is very effective. Larger plants like aloes and agaves look best in a pot of their own. Any large shallow pot can be used as an excellent pot for a cacti or succulent garden. You want to select plants all about the same size with similar care requirements. These plants all require a lot of light, so make sure the container you select fits near a window. A layer of fine grit over the compost gives an attractive, yet, dry surface for the cacti in the pot. You can place clean pebbles between the plants to increase the desert effect. Some cacti look attractive in little pots all in a row. The mutant cultivars of Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is great this way because they have different colored heads.
Caring for Succulents and Cacti Plants
Most succulents and cacti require a lot of light. They are suitable for the sunniest of spots in your home. If you build some shelves across a sunny window you will be providing them with what they love. You want to be sure to turn the plants regularly to make sure all sides of the plant get equal sunny exposure. Every garden center has a great collection of cacti and succulents you can grow in your home. Some cacti, like the forest-growing Schlumbergera x buckleyi (Christmas cactus), are sold a seasonal plants or gift plants in department stores. It’s best to buy cacti that are already in flower because it takes years for this to happen. You should check them over and make sure they are sound with no trace of rot or areas that are shriveled or dry. They should be just the right size for their pot and you should make sure that they are not exposed to drafts when you get them home. If you purchase desert cacti, make sure they are planted in well-drained compost. They should be well watered with tepid water in spring and summer. However, the compost should be allowed to almost completely dry in winter months, especially if they are in cool conditions. This allows the cacti to go dormant. During periods of active growth, cacti should be fed about once every three weeks. You can use well-diluted tomato fertilizer for this purpose. Also, desert cacti like temperatures of 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). in the winter. You only need to repot desert cacti when the roots completely fill the pot. Forest cacti are very different. They usually have beautiful hanging flowers that grow from the tips of segmented stems. These stems look like chains of fleshy leaves. They grow this way because they’ve been trained to grow over trees. They are used to shade, but they do need some bright light. They need lime-free, light compost that is well drained and should be misted with tepid, soft water. They can be rested in 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). Water them moderately and feed them weekly with a weak fertilizer after winter and place them in a room with higher temperatures. There are 50 or more families of plants that can be considered succulents. They should be watered freely in the summer but only when their compost becomes dry. In the winter, they tolerate temperatures around 50 F. (10 C.). In the summer you should fertilize with well-diluted fertilizer every few weeks and they prefer fresh air instead of humidity. Desert cacti, forest cacti and succulents can all be grown together. They make stunning displays for your houseplant collection. They don’t take a lot of care, but you still need to know what they like and need.
Cacti and Succulent Info
Cacti are associated with the desert, and many thrive in regions of Central and South America. Other cacti, though, come from as far north as Canada, and many are even native to the rainforests. Like bromeliads, a lot of cacti are epiphytes, and the cacti that are forest dwelling species grow over forest trees. The desert-dwelling variety of cacti can survive for really long periods of time without rainfall. They get their moisture from dew or mist and store nutrients and moisture in their tissues.
The word “succulent” means “juicy.” Succulent plants have leaves or stems that are filled with juices, the stored water and nutrients that allow the plant to grow. These leaves allow the plant to withstand harsh conditions all over the world. Normally, these leaves have a glossy or leathery appearance, and the texture actually helps protect them from excessive moisture loss. Storing moisture the way they do is what defines cacti as succulents. What makes a cactus a cactus is that they grow growths, known as areoles. These are cushioned growing points that are technically compressed branches. Spines, “wool” flowers and offsets all grow from the areoles. A lot of succulents resemble cacti in every way except they don’t grow spines. This is what makes a succulent a succulent and not a cactus. In all but one genus of cactus, the Pereskia, the plants do not have leaves. The bodies of cacti are usually globular or cylindrical in shape. Opuntias have round, segmented stems. Epiphyllums have stems that look more like strap-shaped leaves. A lot of cacti have prominent spines, barbs or bristles and some have woolly hair. In fact, all cacti have spines even though they might be so small they’re insignificant. It’s not always appreciated that all cacti flower, and flower regularly if they are well-looked after.
Cacti and Succulents in the Home
There are a lot of succulent plants that can be grown in your home, and some of them are among the easiest plants to care for. They are actually great plants for beginners, but as with any gardening and houseplant growing, you have to know what you’re doing and dealing with in order to do well at growing them. Cacti and succulents make a great display, from the beautiful Nopalxochia ackermanii and the large flowers of the Epiphyllums (orchid cactus) to the weird and wonderful Astrophytum asterias (sea urchin cactus) or the hairy Cephalocereus senilis (old man cactus). It’s a shame that these plants are not cultivated more often! They are undemanding and will withstand most maltreatment except for overindulgence. Overindulgence accounts for those that are sitting around all dusty on people’s windowsills or those that are mushy and rotting from overwatering. They need bright light and fresh air, and they need a cool, dry winter rest as well. Forest cacti tend to trail and have large flowers. This makes them perfect for individual displays in hanging baskets. The desert types have interesting shapes and textures and can be highlighted in a grouped display. Planting a group of succulents or cacti in one larger bowl is very effective. Larger plants like aloes and agaves look best in a pot of their own. Any large shallow pot can be used as an excellent pot for a cacti or succulent garden. You want to select plants all about the same size with similar care requirements. These plants all require a lot of light, so make sure the container you select fits near a window. A layer of fine grit over the compost gives an attractive, yet, dry surface for the cacti in the pot. You can place clean pebbles between the plants to increase the desert effect. Some cacti look attractive in little pots all in a row. The mutant cultivars of Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is great this way because they have different colored heads.
Caring for Succulents and Cacti Plants
Most succulents and cacti require a lot of light. They are suitable for the sunniest of spots in your home. If you build some shelves across a sunny window you will be providing them with what they love. You want to be sure to turn the plants regularly to make sure all sides of the plant get equal sunny exposure. Every garden center has a great collection of cacti and succulents you can grow in your home. Some cacti, like the forest-growing Schlumbergera x buckleyi (Christmas cactus), are sold a seasonal plants or gift plants in department stores. It’s best to buy cacti that are already in flower because it takes years for this to happen. You should check them over and make sure they are sound with no trace of rot or areas that are shriveled or dry. They should be just the right size for their pot and you should make sure that they are not exposed to drafts when you get them home. If you purchase desert cacti, make sure they are planted in well-drained compost. They should be well watered with tepid water in spring and summer. However, the compost should be allowed to almost completely dry in winter months, especially if they are in cool conditions. This allows the cacti to go dormant. During periods of active growth, cacti should be fed about once every three weeks. You can use well-diluted tomato fertilizer for this purpose. Also, desert cacti like temperatures of 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). in the winter. You only need to repot desert cacti when the roots completely fill the pot. Forest cacti are very different. They usually have beautiful hanging flowers that grow from the tips of segmented stems. These stems look like chains of fleshy leaves. They grow this way because they’ve been trained to grow over trees. They are used to shade, but they do need some bright light. They need lime-free, light compost that is well drained and should be misted with tepid, soft water. They can be rested in 50-55 F. (10-13 C.). Water them moderately and feed them weekly with a weak fertilizer after winter and place them in a room with higher temperatures. There are 50 or more families of plants that can be considered succulents. They should be watered freely in the summer but only when their compost becomes dry. In the winter, they tolerate temperatures around 50 F. (10 C.). In the summer you should fertilize with well-diluted fertilizer every few weeks and they prefer fresh air instead of humidity. Desert cacti, forest cacti and succulents can all be grown together. They make stunning displays for your houseplant collection. They don’t take a lot of care, but you still need to know what they like and need.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
It can be frustrating to find one of your prized cactus plants leaking sap. Do not let this put you off, however. Let’s take a look at reasons for sap leaking from a cactus plant. Why is My Cactus Oozing Sap?
There are several reasons for sap leaking from a cactus. It could be an indication of a fungal disease, pest problem, tissue injury or even the result of freezing or excess sun exposure. You will need to become a detective and round up the clues to diagnose the issue by the process of elimination. It’s important to verify that correct care is given, as improper cultivation can also be a cause of a cactus oozing sap. Put your frock coat and bowler on and let’s get investigating!
Cultivation Problems
Oozing cactus plants can be the result of a number of different things. Overwatering, poor drainage, lack of light, too much concentrated sun and even the type of water you use can all cause tissue damage and release cactus sap. When improper cultivation is applied, the plants can experience rot, sunburn and even mechanical damage. Since cacti store water in their stems and pads, any ruptured area will weep fluid. Most cacti will heal from small injuries but their vigor may be greatly reduced.
Diseases
In the mid 1990’s, botanists were concerned about the Saguaro cacti, which were oozing black sap. The cause was widely debated but never fully determined. Pollution, ozone depletion and the removal of the larger “nurse” saguaro plants likely contributed to the giant cacti’s health problems. More common to the home grower, however, are fungal and bacterial diseases that cause a defensive reaction in the plant, resulting in sap leaking from a cactus. The cactus sap may appear to be brown or black, which indicates a bacterial problem. Fungus spores may be soil or air borne. Repotting the cactus every two years can help minimize the chance of bacterial issues and keeping the soil dry to the touch reduces the formation of fungal spores.
Pests
Cacti that are growing outside can fall victim to many pests. Birds can peck at the trunks, rodents chew on the flesh and smaller invaders (such as insects) may wreak havoc on the plants. For instance, the cactus moth is a scourge of cacti. Its larva cause yellowing of the skin and oozing cactus plants. These moths are predominantly found on the Gulf Coast. Other larval forms cause cactus oozing sap during their burrowing. Watch for their presence and combat by manual removal or organic pesticides.
What to Do to Save Oozing Cactus Plants
If the flow of sap is severe enough to damage the health of your plant, you may be able to save it by replanting or propagating the healthy portion. If the top is still vigorous and firm, but the lower part of the plant is where the injury has occurred, you can cut it off. Remove the healthy part and let the cut end dry out for a few days and callus. Then plant it in clean cactus mix. The cutting will root and produce a new, hopefully healthier plant.
There are several reasons for sap leaking from a cactus. It could be an indication of a fungal disease, pest problem, tissue injury or even the result of freezing or excess sun exposure. You will need to become a detective and round up the clues to diagnose the issue by the process of elimination. It’s important to verify that correct care is given, as improper cultivation can also be a cause of a cactus oozing sap. Put your frock coat and bowler on and let’s get investigating!
Cultivation Problems
Oozing cactus plants can be the result of a number of different things. Overwatering, poor drainage, lack of light, too much concentrated sun and even the type of water you use can all cause tissue damage and release cactus sap. When improper cultivation is applied, the plants can experience rot, sunburn and even mechanical damage. Since cacti store water in their stems and pads, any ruptured area will weep fluid. Most cacti will heal from small injuries but their vigor may be greatly reduced.
Diseases
In the mid 1990’s, botanists were concerned about the Saguaro cacti, which were oozing black sap. The cause was widely debated but never fully determined. Pollution, ozone depletion and the removal of the larger “nurse” saguaro plants likely contributed to the giant cacti’s health problems. More common to the home grower, however, are fungal and bacterial diseases that cause a defensive reaction in the plant, resulting in sap leaking from a cactus. The cactus sap may appear to be brown or black, which indicates a bacterial problem. Fungus spores may be soil or air borne. Repotting the cactus every two years can help minimize the chance of bacterial issues and keeping the soil dry to the touch reduces the formation of fungal spores.
Pests
Cacti that are growing outside can fall victim to many pests. Birds can peck at the trunks, rodents chew on the flesh and smaller invaders (such as insects) may wreak havoc on the plants. For instance, the cactus moth is a scourge of cacti. Its larva cause yellowing of the skin and oozing cactus plants. These moths are predominantly found on the Gulf Coast. Other larval forms cause cactus oozing sap during their burrowing. Watch for their presence and combat by manual removal or organic pesticides.
What to Do to Save Oozing Cactus Plants
If the flow of sap is severe enough to damage the health of your plant, you may be able to save it by replanting or propagating the healthy portion. If the top is still vigorous and firm, but the lower part of the plant is where the injury has occurred, you can cut it off. Remove the healthy part and let the cut end dry out for a few days and callus. Then plant it in clean cactus mix. The cutting will root and produce a new, hopefully healthier plant.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are remarkably durable and low in maintenance. The succulents need little more than sun, well drained soil and rare moisture. The pests and problems common to the plant group are minimal and usually easy to surmount. Cactus problems may range from sucking pests, like whitefly, to common rots from bacteria or fungal disease. One of the telltale signs of a problem is a soft, mushy cactus.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are one of my favorite types of plants to grow inside all year and outside in summer. Unfortunately, the ambient air tends to stay moist during most seasons, a condition which makes cacti unhappy. Cactus potting soil can enhance drainage, increase evaporation and provide the dry conditions that cacti favor. What is cactus mix? This medium promotes optimum health for your cactus and mimics the natural gritty, arid and low nutrient soils they grow in naturally. You can purchase the mixture or learn how to make cactus soil yourself.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
One of the easiest methods of plant propagation for cacti is by removing cactus pups. These don’t have furry ears and a tail but are the smaller versions of the parent plant at the base. Many species of cactus are known for growing cactus pups, which carry the identical characteristics of the parent without the capriciousness of seeds, which may produce plants with different characteristics. Removing offsets from cactus, also known as pups, not only produces another complete plant but is useful in containers that are overcrowded. Cactus propagation via offsets is easier than the slow growth of seed, the surgical precision of grafting and the variability of cuttings. The little cacti are small but complete copies of the parent species and simply need to be removed from the adult.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Off with your head! Cactus propagation is commonly done by grafting, a process where a cut piece of one species is grown onto a wounded piece of another. Grafting cactus plants is a straightforward method of propagation which even a novice gardener can try. Different species work better with different methods but a brief cactus grafting guide follows with basic instructions on how to graft a cactus. Cacti comprise some of my favorite plants due to their uniqueness of form and unusual characteristics. Propagation is through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Cactus Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus for Grafting
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or undatus Cereus peruvianus Trichocereus spachianus Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
Cactus Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus for Grafting
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or undatus Cereus peruvianus Trichocereus spachianus Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The three common holiday cacti, named for time of year the blooms appear, include Thanksgiving cactus, Christmas cactus and Easter cactus. All three are easy to grow and have similar growth habits and care requirements. Although these familiar cacti are traditionally available in shades of red, today’s holiday cactus varieties come in magenta, pink and scarlet, as well as yellow, white, orange, purple, salmon and apricot. Although all three are native to Brazil, Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus are tropical rain forest plants, while Easter cactus is native to Brazil’s natural forests.
Different Types of Holiday Cactus
The three types of Christmas cactus plants (holiday cacti), are primarily recognized by the time of bloom. Thanksgiving cactus blooms in late autumn, about a month before Christmas cactus. Easter cactus displays buds in February and blooms around Easter. Different types of holiday cactus are also differentiated by the shape of their leaves, which are actually plump, flat stems. Thanksgiving cactus is often known as lobster cactus because the edges of the leaves are hooked, giving them a claw-like appearance. Christmas cactus leaves are smaller with smooth edges, and Easter cactus leaves have a more bristled appearance. Unlike regular, desert-dwelling cactus, holiday cacti are not drought-tolerant. During active growth, the plants should be watered whenever the surface of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Drainage is critical and the pots should never stand in water.
After flowering, water the holiday cactus sparingly until the plant completes its normal dormant period and new growth appears. A period of relative dryness is especially important for Easter cactus, which isn’t a tropical plant. Holiday cactus prefers dark nights and relatively cool temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees F./10 and 18 degrees C. Holiday cactus is easy to propagate by breaking off a stem with two to five segments. Set the stem aside until the broken end forms a callus, then plant the stem in a pot filled with a mixture of sand and sterile potting mix. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Otherwise, the stem is likely to rot before it develops roots.
Different Types of Holiday Cactus
The three types of Christmas cactus plants (holiday cacti), are primarily recognized by the time of bloom. Thanksgiving cactus blooms in late autumn, about a month before Christmas cactus. Easter cactus displays buds in February and blooms around Easter. Different types of holiday cactus are also differentiated by the shape of their leaves, which are actually plump, flat stems. Thanksgiving cactus is often known as lobster cactus because the edges of the leaves are hooked, giving them a claw-like appearance. Christmas cactus leaves are smaller with smooth edges, and Easter cactus leaves have a more bristled appearance. Unlike regular, desert-dwelling cactus, holiday cacti are not drought-tolerant. During active growth, the plants should be watered whenever the surface of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Drainage is critical and the pots should never stand in water.
After flowering, water the holiday cactus sparingly until the plant completes its normal dormant period and new growth appears. A period of relative dryness is especially important for Easter cactus, which isn’t a tropical plant. Holiday cactus prefers dark nights and relatively cool temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees F./10 and 18 degrees C. Holiday cactus is easy to propagate by breaking off a stem with two to five segments. Set the stem aside until the broken end forms a callus, then plant the stem in a pot filled with a mixture of sand and sterile potting mix. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Otherwise, the stem is likely to rot before it develops roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are low maintenance plants for the home with a ton of character and a vast array of form. They are relatively maintenance free except for infrequent watering and annual food. Many gardeners ask “should I repot my cactus?” They don’t need repotting often, but once in a while for soil replenishment and when the plant needs a larger pot. When to repot a cactus plant depends upon the plant and its condition. Read on for tips on how to repot a cactus and do it without spending the rest of the day picking spines out of your hands.
Tools for Cactus Repotting
Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection. The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts. One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot a Cactus Plant
You will know when to repot a cactus plant if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting. The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot a Cactus
Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus,” it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot. Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window. Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
Tools for Cactus Repotting
Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection. The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts. One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot a Cactus Plant
You will know when to repot a cactus plant if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting. The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot a Cactus
Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus,” it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot. Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window. Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cactus are low maintenance plants that generally thrive with neglect and do not require a lot of pampering. It might surprise you to find that cacti can and do need to be pruned now and then. Cactus pruning is not always necessary and when to prune a cactus plant will depend upon why you are trimming it. A few notes on how to cut back a cactus for purposes of propagation, rejuvenation and structural integrity will send you on the road to cleaning up your succulents properly.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias, Crassula and Senecios have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like totem pole cacti or organ pipe cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other succulents in the family will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant. Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens. The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease. Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them. For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point. Plants like agave will need the old leaves removed to preserve the appearance. Cut them away at the base of the plant with shears.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves. Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species. Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus. Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately. Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month. Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias, Crassula and Senecios have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like totem pole cacti or organ pipe cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other succulents in the family will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant. Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens. The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease. Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them. For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point. Plants like agave will need the old leaves removed to preserve the appearance. Cut them away at the base of the plant with shears.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves. Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species. Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus. Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately. Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month. Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Wondering how to fertilize a cactus plant can present a bit of a dilemma, because the first question that comes to mind is “Does a cactus need fertilizer, really?” Keep reading to find out and learn more about fertilizing cactus plants.
Does a Cactus Need Fertilizer?
The classic perception of the perfect environment for cacti is a harsh, dry desert with two extremes: periods of no rainfall whatsoever or sudden deluges that the plant must absorb, store and use throughout the next dry spell.
It’s important to remember that whether they are outside in the garden exposed to seasonal extremes or in a bright sunny spot in the house, fertilizing cactus plants can keep them happily growing no matter the season. Just like with any other garden or houseplant, fertilizing cactus plants will help them adapt, actively grow and even multiply if that’s one of their characteristics. Cacti fertilizer requirements are pretty simple. Any good houseplant food (diluted to half) that’s higher in phosphorus than nitrogen is a good choice. A 5-10-5 solution can work well. Now that you know that they really do need fertilizer, it’s also important to know when to feed cactus plants.
How Do I Know When To Feed Cactus Plants?
Despite the fact that cacti can survive (and thrive) in some of the harshest conditions on earth, most of them prefer multiple small feedings instead of one gigantic flood. Cactus plants really don’t require a ton of water or fertilizer (they do require a lot of bright light). At a minimum, fertilizing cactus plants once a year is a good rule of thumb, but if you’re really organized and can set up a schedule, feeding them 2-3 times per year in the spring, summer and fall will easily satisfy your cacti fertilizer requirements. Cactus plants need fertilizer during their active growing periods more than any other time. Many gardeners use a time-release mechanism that will feed the plant for a longer period of time, such as 3 or 6 months in order to be sure not to miss their peak growing time. Finally, remember one of the “golden rules of growing” as you plan to care for your cactus plants: never overfeed! Overfeeding is as dangerous to your cactus plants as overwatering is to any plant. Being careful not to overfeed is just as important as knowing when to feed cactus plants and how to fertilize a cactus, and gives your plants the best chance of staying healthy and happy.
Does a Cactus Need Fertilizer?
The classic perception of the perfect environment for cacti is a harsh, dry desert with two extremes: periods of no rainfall whatsoever or sudden deluges that the plant must absorb, store and use throughout the next dry spell.
It’s important to remember that whether they are outside in the garden exposed to seasonal extremes or in a bright sunny spot in the house, fertilizing cactus plants can keep them happily growing no matter the season. Just like with any other garden or houseplant, fertilizing cactus plants will help them adapt, actively grow and even multiply if that’s one of their characteristics. Cacti fertilizer requirements are pretty simple. Any good houseplant food (diluted to half) that’s higher in phosphorus than nitrogen is a good choice. A 5-10-5 solution can work well. Now that you know that they really do need fertilizer, it’s also important to know when to feed cactus plants.
How Do I Know When To Feed Cactus Plants?
Despite the fact that cacti can survive (and thrive) in some of the harshest conditions on earth, most of them prefer multiple small feedings instead of one gigantic flood. Cactus plants really don’t require a ton of water or fertilizer (they do require a lot of bright light). At a minimum, fertilizing cactus plants once a year is a good rule of thumb, but if you’re really organized and can set up a schedule, feeding them 2-3 times per year in the spring, summer and fall will easily satisfy your cacti fertilizer requirements. Cactus plants need fertilizer during their active growing periods more than any other time. Many gardeners use a time-release mechanism that will feed the plant for a longer period of time, such as 3 or 6 months in order to be sure not to miss their peak growing time. Finally, remember one of the “golden rules of growing” as you plan to care for your cactus plants: never overfeed! Overfeeding is as dangerous to your cactus plants as overwatering is to any plant. Being careful not to overfeed is just as important as knowing when to feed cactus plants and how to fertilize a cactus, and gives your plants the best chance of staying healthy and happy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
When you think cactus, you generally think arid, desert plant. This is not always the case, as cacti range from many different environments. While it is true the plants in this group usually prefer soil on the dry side, they still require moisture, especially during the growing season. How often do you need to water a cactus plant? There is more to how to water a cactus than the timing. You also need the correct soil porosity, container drainage, site conditions and time of year.
How Often Do You Need to Water Cactus?
Cactus plants are actually quite juicy. Think of an aloe when you cut it open and the mucilaginous goo that is inside the leaves. Cactus plants actually hoard moisture in their plant cells so they have some water during extremely dry, drought-like conditions. They are remarkably tolerant to water neglect but certain signs in the leaves, pads or stems will indicate that the plant is becoming stressed due to a lack in moisture. Recognizing these signs, along with some education on your plant’s native region and climate, can help indicate the best time for watering cactus plants.
There are many factors influencing the timing of watering cactus plants. Are the plants in ground or in containers? What is the lighting exposure, air temperature, soil type, size of plant, wind or draft exposure and time of year? No matter the time of year, one constant among any type of cactus is its inability to tolerate standing water. To this end, soil type is very important. Loose, well-draining soil is essential to cactus health. If the soil is porous enough, occasionally overwatering is not much of an issue, as excess will easily drain away. Heavy compact, clay soils or those with heavy amounts of organic material tend to capture water and can cause rot in cactus roots and lower stems. Plants in full sun tend to dry out more than those in lower light conditions, as do windy or drafty sites.
Cactus Plant Watering
Cactus plants tend to do the majority of their growth in the warmer seasons. This is when they need supplemental moisture to fuel that growth. Spring and summer plants need to be irrigated enough to avoid wrinkled leaves, pads and stems and promote new cell production, flowering and fruiting if applicable. In late fall and winter, plants are in their resting state and need just enough water to get them through the season. During this period, potting soil or in-ground soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. However, plants located just by the hot, dry air of a furnace or in full sun will dry more quickly than those in other locations and may require a bit more moisture to withstand those drying conditions. In spring and summer, plants need more moisture and average cactus plant watering should take place once per week or more frequently. This is why well-draining soil is important because any extra moisture can move away from sensitive roots.
How to Water a Cactus
There are several schools of thought on how to water these plants, but one fact is clear. Don’t mist desert cactus. They are not native to regions where surface moisture and humidity is prevalent. Instead, they reach deep into soil to harvest moisture left over from the rainy season. Jungle cacti are a bit different and thrive with some misting. An example of this type of cactus is the Christmas cactus. In general, most cultivated cacti will be desert denizens, so watering overhead should be avoided. Potted plants can be set in a saucer of water to intake moisture through the roots. Remove the plant from the saucer after the soil is saturated halfway up. Another method of cactus plant watering is to simply apply it to the surface of the soil. In this case, several factors influence the amount of water such as heat, direct light and planting situation. In general, a slow, deep watering is sufficient once per week. This may translate to soaking a container until moisture runs out the drainage holes or using a garden hose set low to steadily drip water to the root zone of the plant for several hours. Just remember, be sensible when watering cactus plants and find out what type you have and from whence they hail. This can make decisions on plant irrigation much easier.
How Often Do You Need to Water Cactus?
Cactus plants are actually quite juicy. Think of an aloe when you cut it open and the mucilaginous goo that is inside the leaves. Cactus plants actually hoard moisture in their plant cells so they have some water during extremely dry, drought-like conditions. They are remarkably tolerant to water neglect but certain signs in the leaves, pads or stems will indicate that the plant is becoming stressed due to a lack in moisture. Recognizing these signs, along with some education on your plant’s native region and climate, can help indicate the best time for watering cactus plants.
There are many factors influencing the timing of watering cactus plants. Are the plants in ground or in containers? What is the lighting exposure, air temperature, soil type, size of plant, wind or draft exposure and time of year? No matter the time of year, one constant among any type of cactus is its inability to tolerate standing water. To this end, soil type is very important. Loose, well-draining soil is essential to cactus health. If the soil is porous enough, occasionally overwatering is not much of an issue, as excess will easily drain away. Heavy compact, clay soils or those with heavy amounts of organic material tend to capture water and can cause rot in cactus roots and lower stems. Plants in full sun tend to dry out more than those in lower light conditions, as do windy or drafty sites.
Cactus Plant Watering
Cactus plants tend to do the majority of their growth in the warmer seasons. This is when they need supplemental moisture to fuel that growth. Spring and summer plants need to be irrigated enough to avoid wrinkled leaves, pads and stems and promote new cell production, flowering and fruiting if applicable. In late fall and winter, plants are in their resting state and need just enough water to get them through the season. During this period, potting soil or in-ground soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. However, plants located just by the hot, dry air of a furnace or in full sun will dry more quickly than those in other locations and may require a bit more moisture to withstand those drying conditions. In spring and summer, plants need more moisture and average cactus plant watering should take place once per week or more frequently. This is why well-draining soil is important because any extra moisture can move away from sensitive roots.
How to Water a Cactus
There are several schools of thought on how to water these plants, but one fact is clear. Don’t mist desert cactus. They are not native to regions where surface moisture and humidity is prevalent. Instead, they reach deep into soil to harvest moisture left over from the rainy season. Jungle cacti are a bit different and thrive with some misting. An example of this type of cactus is the Christmas cactus. In general, most cultivated cacti will be desert denizens, so watering overhead should be avoided. Potted plants can be set in a saucer of water to intake moisture through the roots. Remove the plant from the saucer after the soil is saturated halfway up. Another method of cactus plant watering is to simply apply it to the surface of the soil. In this case, several factors influence the amount of water such as heat, direct light and planting situation. In general, a slow, deep watering is sufficient once per week. This may translate to soaking a container until moisture runs out the drainage holes or using a garden hose set low to steadily drip water to the root zone of the plant for several hours. Just remember, be sensible when watering cactus plants and find out what type you have and from whence they hail. This can make decisions on plant irrigation much easier.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Do mice eat cactus? Yes, they certainly do, and they enjoy every single bite. Cactus is a delicacy to a variety of rodents, including rats, gophers and ground squirrels. It seems that prickly cactus would discourage rodents, but the thirsty critters are willing to brave the formidable spines to get to the sweet nectar hidden beneath, especially during periods of prolonged drought. For some gardeners, rodents feeding on cactus can become a serious problem. Poison is one option, but you take the risk of harming birds and wildlife. If you’re wondering how to keep rodents away from cactus, read on for a few suggestions.
How to Keep Rodents Away from Cactus
Some cacti are hardy plants that can survive an occasional nibble, but in many cases, rodents feeding on cactus can be deadly, so cactus plant protection is necessary. Here are a few tips for protecting cactus from rodents:Fencing: Surround your cactus with wire fencing. Bury the fencing at least 4 to 6 inches into the soil to discourage rodents from digging under. Covers: If rodents are a problem at night, cover cacti every evening with a metal garbage can, bucket, or empty nursery container. Mint: Try surrounding your cacti with mint, as rodents don’t appreciate the powerful aroma. If you’re worried that mint may become too aggressive, place potted mint plants near your cactus. Pets: Cats are rodent-control experts, especially when it comes to eradicating mice and other small critters. Certain dogs, including Jack Russell Terriers, are also good at catching rodents and other vermin. Repellants: Some gardeners have good luck by surrounding cactus with the urine of predators such as wolf, fox or coyote, which is available at most garden supply stores. Other repellants, such as hot pepper, garlic or onion spray, seem to be temporary at best.
Poison: Be extremely careful if you decide to use poison as a means of protecting cactus from rodents. Avoid poison at all costs if you have young children or pets, and keep in mind that poison can also kill birds and other wildlife. Lastly, remember that poisoned animals often seek shelter to die, which means they may breathe their last breath inside the walls of your home. Trapping: This, like poison, should be a last resort and doesn’t work as well as you might expect. Often, trapping an animal creates a vacuum that is quickly replaced by another animal (or several). Live traps may be an option, but check with your Department of Fish and Wildlife first, as relocating rodents is illegal in many areas. (Consider your neighbors!)
How to Keep Rodents Away from Cactus
Some cacti are hardy plants that can survive an occasional nibble, but in many cases, rodents feeding on cactus can be deadly, so cactus plant protection is necessary. Here are a few tips for protecting cactus from rodents:Fencing: Surround your cactus with wire fencing. Bury the fencing at least 4 to 6 inches into the soil to discourage rodents from digging under. Covers: If rodents are a problem at night, cover cacti every evening with a metal garbage can, bucket, or empty nursery container. Mint: Try surrounding your cacti with mint, as rodents don’t appreciate the powerful aroma. If you’re worried that mint may become too aggressive, place potted mint plants near your cactus. Pets: Cats are rodent-control experts, especially when it comes to eradicating mice and other small critters. Certain dogs, including Jack Russell Terriers, are also good at catching rodents and other vermin. Repellants: Some gardeners have good luck by surrounding cactus with the urine of predators such as wolf, fox or coyote, which is available at most garden supply stores. Other repellants, such as hot pepper, garlic or onion spray, seem to be temporary at best.
Poison: Be extremely careful if you decide to use poison as a means of protecting cactus from rodents. Avoid poison at all costs if you have young children or pets, and keep in mind that poison can also kill birds and other wildlife. Lastly, remember that poisoned animals often seek shelter to die, which means they may breathe their last breath inside the walls of your home. Trapping: This, like poison, should be a last resort and doesn’t work as well as you might expect. Often, trapping an animal creates a vacuum that is quickly replaced by another animal (or several). Live traps may be an option, but check with your Department of Fish and Wildlife first, as relocating rodents is illegal in many areas. (Consider your neighbors!)
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Occasionally, mature cactus plants have to be moved. Moving cacti in the landscape, especially large specimens, can be a challenge. This process poses more danger to you than the plant due to the spines, thorns and other dangerous armor most of these plants possess. Transplanting a cactus can be done at any time of the year, but the best time is in cool weather. Some tips on how to transplant a cactus without harm to you or the plant will follow.
Before Moving Cacti in the Landscape
Mature cactus plants can get quite large and require professional assistance to minimize plant damage. If you are determined to take on the process yourself, consider site preparation, have several extra hands available and prepare the plant carefully to avoid harming pads, limbs and causing yourself and your helpers any pain. Only transplant healthy specimens that will have the best chance of re-establishing. A word of caution: wild cactus cannot be harvested legally in most areas, so this information applies to cultivated cacti in the landscape only. Preparation is crucial when moving a cactus plant. Mark the plant so you can situate it in the same orientation in which it is growing. Plants with large pads should be swaddled in an old blanket or something that will cushion the limbs while giving you protection from the spines.
How to Transplant a Cactus
Begin by digging a trench around the plant 1 to 2 feet away and about 18 inches deep. Then start prying around the plant gently. Cactus roots are usually near the surface but are delicate, so be careful during this process. Once you have excavated the roots, use the shovel to pry out the plant. Wrap a large garden hose around the plant and lift it out of the hole. If the plant is large, you may need more than two people, or even a vehicle for pulling. Successfully transplanting a cactus requires careful new site preparation. The cactus roots should air dry for a few days before installing the plant in its new location. During this time, assess the soil and amend as needed. In sandy locations, add 25% compost. In areas with rich or clay soil, add pumice to help assist with drainage. Dig a shallow, wide hole that is the same size as the original planting site. Orient the cactus at the same exposure it experienced in the old planting location. This is one of the more crucial details because it will prevent or minimize sunburn. Carefully lift the plant and settle it in the correct orientation in the prepared hole. Backfill around the roots and tamp down. Water the plant deeply to settle the soil. Some special care is required for several months after moving a cactus plant. Water the plant twice per week for a month unless nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). In this case, do not water unless up to 4 months have gone by without precipitation. If transplant takes place in spring or summer, cover the plant with shade cloth to prevent burning. Keep the cloth in place for 3 to 4 weeks as the plant re-establishes and adapts to its new conditions. Large plants over 5 feet in height will benefit from staking. After a month, diminish watering frequency to every 2 to 3 weeks in summer and 2 to 3 times during winter. Watch for signs of stress and address each symptom individually. Within a few months, your plant should be well established and on its way to recovery from the moving process.
Before Moving Cacti in the Landscape
Mature cactus plants can get quite large and require professional assistance to minimize plant damage. If you are determined to take on the process yourself, consider site preparation, have several extra hands available and prepare the plant carefully to avoid harming pads, limbs and causing yourself and your helpers any pain. Only transplant healthy specimens that will have the best chance of re-establishing. A word of caution: wild cactus cannot be harvested legally in most areas, so this information applies to cultivated cacti in the landscape only. Preparation is crucial when moving a cactus plant. Mark the plant so you can situate it in the same orientation in which it is growing. Plants with large pads should be swaddled in an old blanket or something that will cushion the limbs while giving you protection from the spines.
How to Transplant a Cactus
Begin by digging a trench around the plant 1 to 2 feet away and about 18 inches deep. Then start prying around the plant gently. Cactus roots are usually near the surface but are delicate, so be careful during this process. Once you have excavated the roots, use the shovel to pry out the plant. Wrap a large garden hose around the plant and lift it out of the hole. If the plant is large, you may need more than two people, or even a vehicle for pulling. Successfully transplanting a cactus requires careful new site preparation. The cactus roots should air dry for a few days before installing the plant in its new location. During this time, assess the soil and amend as needed. In sandy locations, add 25% compost. In areas with rich or clay soil, add pumice to help assist with drainage. Dig a shallow, wide hole that is the same size as the original planting site. Orient the cactus at the same exposure it experienced in the old planting location. This is one of the more crucial details because it will prevent or minimize sunburn. Carefully lift the plant and settle it in the correct orientation in the prepared hole. Backfill around the roots and tamp down. Water the plant deeply to settle the soil. Some special care is required for several months after moving a cactus plant. Water the plant twice per week for a month unless nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). In this case, do not water unless up to 4 months have gone by without precipitation. If transplant takes place in spring or summer, cover the plant with shade cloth to prevent burning. Keep the cloth in place for 3 to 4 weeks as the plant re-establishes and adapts to its new conditions. Large plants over 5 feet in height will benefit from staking. After a month, diminish watering frequency to every 2 to 3 weeks in summer and 2 to 3 times during winter. Watch for signs of stress and address each symptom individually. Within a few months, your plant should be well established and on its way to recovery from the moving process.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti seem to be hardy and fairly resistant to problems, but fungal diseases in cactus can be a major issue. An example of this is anthracnose fungus in cactus. Anthracnose on cactus can decimate an entire plant. Is there any effective cactus anthracnose control? Read on to find out about treating anthracnose in cactus.
Anthracnose on Cactus
Anthracnose is caused by a fungus (Colletotrichum spp.) and afflicts many plant species. Anthracnose fungus in cactus affects several types of cacti: Cereus Echinocactus Mammillaria Opuntia (prickly pear) The first signs of infection are dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. Soon, the interior of the lesions becomes covered with a pink, jelly-like mass of spores. Within a few days of infection, the pink gelatinous spores enlarge and eventually the plant tissue hardens and dries out. Agaves are also often afflicted, most often in the fall when the weather is wet. This fungal disease in cactus overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden detritus. Wet, cool weather encourages development. Moist, warm temperatures of between 75 and 85 F. (24 and 29 C.) cause an increase in the growth of spores that are then spread via rain, wind, insects and gardening tools.
Treating Anthracnose in Cactus
Once the plant is afflicted with anthracnose, there is no optimal cactus anthracnose control. Obviously, infected leaves (cladodes) can be removed but may not stop the progression of the infection. Use a knife that is disinfected before each cut. Disinfect by dipping the knife in one part bleach to four parts of water. In greenhouses, soil should be removed from areas of infected plants. All tools and pots need to be thoroughly disinfected. An application of copper fungicide, Maneb, Benomyl or Dithane may aid in destroying any remaining fungi. Be sure to completely destroy any infected parts or complete plants so they do not infect other areas. Practice good garden sanitation by removing any rotting plant debris immediately. Water plants at the base to avoid splashing and spreading spores. Keep tools disinfected.
Anthracnose on Cactus
Anthracnose is caused by a fungus (Colletotrichum spp.) and afflicts many plant species. Anthracnose fungus in cactus affects several types of cacti: Cereus Echinocactus Mammillaria Opuntia (prickly pear) The first signs of infection are dark, water soaked lesions on stems, leaves or fruit. Soon, the interior of the lesions becomes covered with a pink, jelly-like mass of spores. Within a few days of infection, the pink gelatinous spores enlarge and eventually the plant tissue hardens and dries out. Agaves are also often afflicted, most often in the fall when the weather is wet. This fungal disease in cactus overwinters in and on seeds, soil and garden detritus. Wet, cool weather encourages development. Moist, warm temperatures of between 75 and 85 F. (24 and 29 C.) cause an increase in the growth of spores that are then spread via rain, wind, insects and gardening tools.
Treating Anthracnose in Cactus
Once the plant is afflicted with anthracnose, there is no optimal cactus anthracnose control. Obviously, infected leaves (cladodes) can be removed but may not stop the progression of the infection. Use a knife that is disinfected before each cut. Disinfect by dipping the knife in one part bleach to four parts of water. In greenhouses, soil should be removed from areas of infected plants. All tools and pots need to be thoroughly disinfected. An application of copper fungicide, Maneb, Benomyl or Dithane may aid in destroying any remaining fungi. Be sure to completely destroy any infected parts or complete plants so they do not infect other areas. Practice good garden sanitation by removing any rotting plant debris immediately. Water plants at the base to avoid splashing and spreading spores. Keep tools disinfected.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are considered to be pretty tough specimens, but even so they are susceptible to a number of diseases and environmental stress. A fairly common problem occurs when a cactus becomes yellow, often on the most sun exposed side of the plant. This makes one wonder “can a cactus plant get sunburned.” If so, is there a cactus sunburn treatment? Read on to find out about sunburn of cactus and how to save a sunburned cactus.
Can a Cactus Plant Get Sunburned?
Cacti come in a myriad of shapes and sizes and are almost irresistible to collect to the plant lover. When most of us think of cacti, we think of them thriving in scorching desert environments, so the natural conclusion is to provide them with conditions that mimic that setting, but the fact is that cacti are found in a variety of climates. Some species are found in tropical regions and every habitat in between.
Unless you are well-versed in cacti, chances are good that you may not be aware of the region and conditions that your new cactus baby would ordinarily thrive in. A yellowing of the plant’s epidermis is telling you that it isn’t happy with its current conditions. In other words, it sounds like a case of sun scorch or sunburn of cactus. Another reason for sunburn on cacti is that they are often initially raised in a greenhouse where conditions are kept at a pretty consistent level of light, heat and moisture. When you bring the cactus home and plunk it outside in a hot, sunny area, imagine the plant’s shock. It hasn’t been used to direct sunlight or sudden temperature changes. The result is a sunburned cactus that first shows signs of yellowing and, in extreme cases, the skin turns white and soft, indicating the eventual demise of the plant. Interestingly, cacti do have ways of dealing with intense heat and sunlight. Some varieties develop additional radial spines to protect the sensitive dermis while others produce more fur to protect the tender outer skin of the plant. The problem is if you suddenly introduce them to these more extreme conditions, the plant doesn’t have time to provide itself with any protection. That’s when some type of cactus sunburn treatment needs to be implemented.
Caring for Sunburned Cactus
If you can catch the problem before the epidermis is scorched white, you may be able to save the poor plant. Here’s how to save a sunburned cactus. Caring for sunburned cactus obviously means you need to get it out of the hot sun. If you notice any yellowing on the cactus and it is in full sun, move it, even if you have to move it in and out of the sun from day to day. Of course, this is really only feasible if the plant is in a pot and of a size that is physically possible to move. If you have a really large cactus that you suspect of sunburn or the cacti reside in the garden proper, try using shade cloth at least during the hottest part of the day. Keep the cacti consistently watered. If other plants are shading the cacti, be judicious when pruning. If you want to move your cacti around, only do so during cool weather to allow them to acclimate slowly and build up some immunity to the hot summer sun. Gradually introduce cacti to outdoor conditions if you move them inside during the winter and then outside for the summer.
Is Sunburn and Sunscald of Cactus the Same?
Although ‘sunburn’ and ‘sunscald’ sound like they might be related, this isn’t the case. Sunscald refers to a disease called Hendersonia opuntiae. It’s a common disease, particularly on prickly pear cactus. Symptoms of sunscald are more localized than sunburn and appear as disparate spots that gradually take over an entire cladode or arm of the cactus. The cladode then turns a reddish-brown and dies. Unfortunately, there is no practical control for this disease.
Can a Cactus Plant Get Sunburned?
Cacti come in a myriad of shapes and sizes and are almost irresistible to collect to the plant lover. When most of us think of cacti, we think of them thriving in scorching desert environments, so the natural conclusion is to provide them with conditions that mimic that setting, but the fact is that cacti are found in a variety of climates. Some species are found in tropical regions and every habitat in between.
Unless you are well-versed in cacti, chances are good that you may not be aware of the region and conditions that your new cactus baby would ordinarily thrive in. A yellowing of the plant’s epidermis is telling you that it isn’t happy with its current conditions. In other words, it sounds like a case of sun scorch or sunburn of cactus. Another reason for sunburn on cacti is that they are often initially raised in a greenhouse where conditions are kept at a pretty consistent level of light, heat and moisture. When you bring the cactus home and plunk it outside in a hot, sunny area, imagine the plant’s shock. It hasn’t been used to direct sunlight or sudden temperature changes. The result is a sunburned cactus that first shows signs of yellowing and, in extreme cases, the skin turns white and soft, indicating the eventual demise of the plant. Interestingly, cacti do have ways of dealing with intense heat and sunlight. Some varieties develop additional radial spines to protect the sensitive dermis while others produce more fur to protect the tender outer skin of the plant. The problem is if you suddenly introduce them to these more extreme conditions, the plant doesn’t have time to provide itself with any protection. That’s when some type of cactus sunburn treatment needs to be implemented.
Caring for Sunburned Cactus
If you can catch the problem before the epidermis is scorched white, you may be able to save the poor plant. Here’s how to save a sunburned cactus. Caring for sunburned cactus obviously means you need to get it out of the hot sun. If you notice any yellowing on the cactus and it is in full sun, move it, even if you have to move it in and out of the sun from day to day. Of course, this is really only feasible if the plant is in a pot and of a size that is physically possible to move. If you have a really large cactus that you suspect of sunburn or the cacti reside in the garden proper, try using shade cloth at least during the hottest part of the day. Keep the cacti consistently watered. If other plants are shading the cacti, be judicious when pruning. If you want to move your cacti around, only do so during cool weather to allow them to acclimate slowly and build up some immunity to the hot summer sun. Gradually introduce cacti to outdoor conditions if you move them inside during the winter and then outside for the summer.
Is Sunburn and Sunscald of Cactus the Same?
Although ‘sunburn’ and ‘sunscald’ sound like they might be related, this isn’t the case. Sunscald refers to a disease called Hendersonia opuntiae. It’s a common disease, particularly on prickly pear cactus. Symptoms of sunscald are more localized than sunburn and appear as disparate spots that gradually take over an entire cladode or arm of the cactus. The cladode then turns a reddish-brown and dies. Unfortunately, there is no practical control for this disease.
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