文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cacti are among the best known warm-weather plants, so you may be surprised to hear about freeze damage to cactus. But even in summer toasty regions of Arizona, temperatures can dip down to below 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 C.) in winter. This can result in freeze damage to cactus. If you find your cactus damaged after a cold snap, you’ll want to know how to care for a frozen cactus. Can a frozen cactus be saved? How do you start reviving a frozen cactus? Read on for tips in assisting a cactus damaged by cold.
Recognizing a Cactus Damaged by Cold
When you have a cactus damaged by cold, how can you tell? The first sign of freeze damage to cactus plants is softened tissue. This tissue often turns white, initially. However, in time the damaged areas of the plant turn black and decay. Finally, the freeze damaged parts of the succulent will fall off.
How to Care for a Frozen Cactus
When you see your cactus tips or trunks turn from green to white to purple, don’t take any action. The odds are good that the cactus will heal itself. But when those tips turn from green to white to black, you will need to prune. Wait until a sunny day later in the spring season to be sure that the cold weather has passed. Then snip off the black parts. This means that you cut off the arm tips or even remove the “head” of the cactus if it is black. Cut at a joint if the cactus is jointed. Don’t hesitate to act once the cactus parts have blackened. The black portions are dead and rotting. Failure to remove them can spread decay and kill the entire cactus. Assuming things go according to plan, your pruning will help in reviving a frozen cactus. In a few months, the chopped section will sprout some new growth. It won’t look exactly the same, but the parts of the cactus damaged by cold will be gone.
Recognizing a Cactus Damaged by Cold
When you have a cactus damaged by cold, how can you tell? The first sign of freeze damage to cactus plants is softened tissue. This tissue often turns white, initially. However, in time the damaged areas of the plant turn black and decay. Finally, the freeze damaged parts of the succulent will fall off.
How to Care for a Frozen Cactus
When you see your cactus tips or trunks turn from green to white to purple, don’t take any action. The odds are good that the cactus will heal itself. But when those tips turn from green to white to black, you will need to prune. Wait until a sunny day later in the spring season to be sure that the cold weather has passed. Then snip off the black parts. This means that you cut off the arm tips or even remove the “head” of the cactus if it is black. Cut at a joint if the cactus is jointed. Don’t hesitate to act once the cactus parts have blackened. The black portions are dead and rotting. Failure to remove them can spread decay and kill the entire cactus. Assuming things go according to plan, your pruning will help in reviving a frozen cactus. In a few months, the chopped section will sprout some new growth. It won’t look exactly the same, but the parts of the cactus damaged by cold will be gone.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Prickly pear cacti, also known as Opuntia, are lovely cactus plants that can be planted in an outdoor desert garden or kept as a houseplant. Unfortunately, there are several common diseases that can attack these beautiful plants. One of the most serious diseases that affects prickly pear is cactus sunscald.
What is Cactus Sunscald?
So, what is cactus sunscald? Despite the name, cactus sunscald disease is not a result of sun exposure. It is actually a disease caused by the fungus Hendersonia opuntiae. This fungus infects the cladodes, or cactus pads, which are the thickened, flattened, green stems of Opuntia cacti. Cactus sunscald disease first causes discoloration and cracking in a localized area of one cladode, then gradually spreads. This eventually causes the entire cactus to rot.
Signs of Cactus Sunscald Disease
Cactus sunscald is common, so it is important to recognize the signs. The problems begin when a small, circular, greyish-brown spot appears on one of the cactus pads. The discolored area may also be cracked. The infected area will later expand across the cladode, and the outer portion may turn reddish-brown. Finally, the entire cactus will rot. Once cactus sunscald begins to attack a cactus, other fungi may also take advantage of the infection and begin growing in the damaged area. Mycosphaerella fungi can also cause a similar disease, also known as sunscald or scorch, on prickly pear cacti. This disease causes similar symptoms and will also eventually kill the cactus. Sunburn on cactus can appear similar to cactus sunscald, but the affected area will appear yellowish or white and will not appear to be gradually spreading from a small original area. Sunburn can be prevented by shielding the cactus from intense sun. As long as the sunburn is not severe, it will not kill the plant.
Cactus Sunscald Treatment
Unfortunately, treating cactus sunscald is difficult or impossible. There is no cure, and infected plants usually cannot be saved. If you have more than one Opuntia cactus, focus on preventing the disease from spreading to the healthy plants. The first step it to recognize the disease and to distinguish it from a sunburn. If your cactus does have sunscald, you should remove and dispose of the infected cactus as soon as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to healthy plants.
What is Cactus Sunscald?
So, what is cactus sunscald? Despite the name, cactus sunscald disease is not a result of sun exposure. It is actually a disease caused by the fungus Hendersonia opuntiae. This fungus infects the cladodes, or cactus pads, which are the thickened, flattened, green stems of Opuntia cacti. Cactus sunscald disease first causes discoloration and cracking in a localized area of one cladode, then gradually spreads. This eventually causes the entire cactus to rot.
Signs of Cactus Sunscald Disease
Cactus sunscald is common, so it is important to recognize the signs. The problems begin when a small, circular, greyish-brown spot appears on one of the cactus pads. The discolored area may also be cracked. The infected area will later expand across the cladode, and the outer portion may turn reddish-brown. Finally, the entire cactus will rot. Once cactus sunscald begins to attack a cactus, other fungi may also take advantage of the infection and begin growing in the damaged area. Mycosphaerella fungi can also cause a similar disease, also known as sunscald or scorch, on prickly pear cacti. This disease causes similar symptoms and will also eventually kill the cactus. Sunburn on cactus can appear similar to cactus sunscald, but the affected area will appear yellowish or white and will not appear to be gradually spreading from a small original area. Sunburn can be prevented by shielding the cactus from intense sun. As long as the sunburn is not severe, it will not kill the plant.
Cactus Sunscald Treatment
Unfortunately, treating cactus sunscald is difficult or impossible. There is no cure, and infected plants usually cannot be saved. If you have more than one Opuntia cactus, focus on preventing the disease from spreading to the healthy plants. The first step it to recognize the disease and to distinguish it from a sunburn. If your cactus does have sunscald, you should remove and dispose of the infected cactus as soon as possible to prevent the disease from spreading to healthy plants.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Gardeners must be ever vigilant when it comes to diseases on their plants. Often, a speedy diagnosis can help prevent more damage. This is the case with scab of cactus. What is cactus scab? Read on to learn more.
What is Cactus Scab?
Cactus scab is particularly common on prickly pear cactus but can affect many other varieties. It is a form of edema, where something has stimulated an abnormal increase in the size of the cells. This results in strange patches on the skin of the plant. It occurs in many other plants too, such as:
Tomatoes Cucumbers Potatoes Begonia Violets Cabbage Cracks, discoloration, dry scabby lesions? Identifying the issue is quite easy, although the appearance can be mistaken for sunscaldor spider mite attacks. Initial signs of scab of cactus are pale yellow spots on the skin of the plant. These become irregular, corky or rusty. Hence, the name corky scab. The whole effect looks like the cactus has a patch of eczema. Essentially, the cells in the epidermis are breaking and opening up, resulting in almost wound-like lesions. The oldest parts of the plant are usually the first to show signs, with young shoots rarely being affected until they mature. Some plants experience just a few patches, while others can become covered in them.
What Causes Corky Scab on Cactus?
It is believed to be caused by poor cultivation methods and, once noted, can be halted before it damages any more of the plant. Corky scab on cactus is primarily an aesthetic disease, but it can have economic impact in commercial growing. Luckily, the problem is easy to prevent by changing cultural methods. As one of the more common diseases of cactus, corky scab is thought to be the result of overwatering, low temperatures and poor ventilation. It is most common in areas where there is abundant, warm water in soil and cool, moist temperatures. Other situations thought to stimulate the disease are high light, injury to the plant, chemicals and poor drainage. Since most of these conditions can be controlled, cactus scab treatment relies upon changing the cultural situation and methods. Outdoor plants may need to be moved to a location where more control over wind, temperature and ambient humidity are possible.
Cactus Scab Treatment
There are no sprays, drenches or systemic preparations for cactus scab treatment. Avoid irrigating in cool, moist weather and ensure good drainage is occurring. Never let a cactus sit on a saucer in water. If plants are indoors or in a greenhouse, increase ventilation. Increase the temperature of the area in which the plant is being grown. Avoid fertilizing in fall and winter, and do not use a formula with a high nitrogen content. Keep light bright but not above 14,000 foot candles, or lumens. If necessary, repot the plant into fresh cactus mixture. Generally, going back to good cactus cultivation and ensuring good light, watering practices and diminishing humidity will prevent any further corking and see your plant back on the road to optimum health.
What is Cactus Scab?
Cactus scab is particularly common on prickly pear cactus but can affect many other varieties. It is a form of edema, where something has stimulated an abnormal increase in the size of the cells. This results in strange patches on the skin of the plant. It occurs in many other plants too, such as:
Tomatoes Cucumbers Potatoes Begonia Violets Cabbage Cracks, discoloration, dry scabby lesions? Identifying the issue is quite easy, although the appearance can be mistaken for sunscaldor spider mite attacks. Initial signs of scab of cactus are pale yellow spots on the skin of the plant. These become irregular, corky or rusty. Hence, the name corky scab. The whole effect looks like the cactus has a patch of eczema. Essentially, the cells in the epidermis are breaking and opening up, resulting in almost wound-like lesions. The oldest parts of the plant are usually the first to show signs, with young shoots rarely being affected until they mature. Some plants experience just a few patches, while others can become covered in them.
What Causes Corky Scab on Cactus?
It is believed to be caused by poor cultivation methods and, once noted, can be halted before it damages any more of the plant. Corky scab on cactus is primarily an aesthetic disease, but it can have economic impact in commercial growing. Luckily, the problem is easy to prevent by changing cultural methods. As one of the more common diseases of cactus, corky scab is thought to be the result of overwatering, low temperatures and poor ventilation. It is most common in areas where there is abundant, warm water in soil and cool, moist temperatures. Other situations thought to stimulate the disease are high light, injury to the plant, chemicals and poor drainage. Since most of these conditions can be controlled, cactus scab treatment relies upon changing the cultural situation and methods. Outdoor plants may need to be moved to a location where more control over wind, temperature and ambient humidity are possible.
Cactus Scab Treatment
There are no sprays, drenches or systemic preparations for cactus scab treatment. Avoid irrigating in cool, moist weather and ensure good drainage is occurring. Never let a cactus sit on a saucer in water. If plants are indoors or in a greenhouse, increase ventilation. Increase the temperature of the area in which the plant is being grown. Avoid fertilizing in fall and winter, and do not use a formula with a high nitrogen content. Keep light bright but not above 14,000 foot candles, or lumens. If necessary, repot the plant into fresh cactus mixture. Generally, going back to good cactus cultivation and ensuring good light, watering practices and diminishing humidity will prevent any further corking and see your plant back on the road to optimum health.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fungal issues plague almost every form of plant. The sheer number of fungal organisms is staggering and most survive dormant for long periods of time. Fungal lesions on cactus may be caused by any number of fungal types, but the important things to note are what causes them to colonize and how to prevent their damage. In this way, the gardener is armed with knowledge on how to treat fungus on cactus should any disease symptoms develop. Some fungal diseases simply cause cosmetic damage while others can develop into rots that completely eat the cactus from the inside out.
Types of Fungal Damage in Cactus
The vast amount of cacti species can only be outcompeted by the huge quantity of fungal varieties. Fungus spots on cactus pads are common, as in the case of Phyllosticta pad spot. It is often quite impossible to diagnose which fungal organism is causing the spots, but often that is unimportant since treatments are generally the same. A few fungi types damage the roots and eventually the whole plant, so once their visual damage is seen, it is too late for the plant. Simple topical fungal spots are much easier to combat and are usually not life threatening to the cactus provided steps are taken to control the offending fungus. Lesions on cacti may present in many different ways. They may be round, irregular, raised, flat and any other shape. Many are discolored but, again, the tones can range from yellow to brown and all the way to black. Some are corky, while others are weepy. These may ooze brown, rusty or black fluid, evidence of severe infection. The cacti most frequently plagued by fungal lesions are Opuntia and Agave. Fungal lesions on cactus usually start as water spots or slight discolorations on the plant’s epidermis. Over time, as the fungi mature and spread, the symptoms can broaden and even eat into the cambium as the surface skin cracks and allows the pathogen to enter.
Causes of Fungal Lesions on Cactus
Outdoor cactus can come in contact with fungal spores in various ways. Spores may be blown in from wind, in soil or contracted from splashing water. Plants with consistently wet pads or stems are the worst affected. Conditions where rain or high humidity combine with warm temperatures promote the formation of fungal lesions. Fungus spots on cactus pads are more prevalent in the springtime. They are also enhanced by overhead watering and in areas where humidity is high. Greenhouse specimens may be particularly susceptible unless there is adequate ventilation. Condensation adds to the ambient humidity and promotes spore growth. Soil is another contributing factor. Many soils harbor fungal spores, which can persist for years until the right set of conditions occur. Even purchased potting soil may be contaminated with fungal spores.
How to Treat Fungus on Cactus
Once there is a fungus affecting your cactus, it can be difficult to stop. If damage isn’t severe, a fungicide spray can usually help. If the plant is rife with lesions, it may be best to find some uninfected healthy material and start a new plant with a cutting. Use a sterile knife to take the cutting and dust it with sulfur to kill any possible adhering spores. Controlling cultural conditions with plenty of heat, under stem watering, sterile potting medium and ventilation will halt many fungal outbreaks. Another way to save a plant is to cut out the infected tissue. This doesn’t work with all fungi, but it may be effective at times. Again, sterilize your cutting implement and remove more tissue than appears to be affected to ensure all the pathogen is removed. Keep the area dry as it calluses and watch carefully for signs of reinfection.
Types of Fungal Damage in Cactus
The vast amount of cacti species can only be outcompeted by the huge quantity of fungal varieties. Fungus spots on cactus pads are common, as in the case of Phyllosticta pad spot. It is often quite impossible to diagnose which fungal organism is causing the spots, but often that is unimportant since treatments are generally the same. A few fungi types damage the roots and eventually the whole plant, so once their visual damage is seen, it is too late for the plant. Simple topical fungal spots are much easier to combat and are usually not life threatening to the cactus provided steps are taken to control the offending fungus. Lesions on cacti may present in many different ways. They may be round, irregular, raised, flat and any other shape. Many are discolored but, again, the tones can range from yellow to brown and all the way to black. Some are corky, while others are weepy. These may ooze brown, rusty or black fluid, evidence of severe infection. The cacti most frequently plagued by fungal lesions are Opuntia and Agave. Fungal lesions on cactus usually start as water spots or slight discolorations on the plant’s epidermis. Over time, as the fungi mature and spread, the symptoms can broaden and even eat into the cambium as the surface skin cracks and allows the pathogen to enter.
Causes of Fungal Lesions on Cactus
Outdoor cactus can come in contact with fungal spores in various ways. Spores may be blown in from wind, in soil or contracted from splashing water. Plants with consistently wet pads or stems are the worst affected. Conditions where rain or high humidity combine with warm temperatures promote the formation of fungal lesions. Fungus spots on cactus pads are more prevalent in the springtime. They are also enhanced by overhead watering and in areas where humidity is high. Greenhouse specimens may be particularly susceptible unless there is adequate ventilation. Condensation adds to the ambient humidity and promotes spore growth. Soil is another contributing factor. Many soils harbor fungal spores, which can persist for years until the right set of conditions occur. Even purchased potting soil may be contaminated with fungal spores.
How to Treat Fungus on Cactus
Once there is a fungus affecting your cactus, it can be difficult to stop. If damage isn’t severe, a fungicide spray can usually help. If the plant is rife with lesions, it may be best to find some uninfected healthy material and start a new plant with a cutting. Use a sterile knife to take the cutting and dust it with sulfur to kill any possible adhering spores. Controlling cultural conditions with plenty of heat, under stem watering, sterile potting medium and ventilation will halt many fungal outbreaks. Another way to save a plant is to cut out the infected tissue. This doesn’t work with all fungi, but it may be effective at times. Again, sterilize your cutting implement and remove more tissue than appears to be affected to ensure all the pathogen is removed. Keep the area dry as it calluses and watch carefully for signs of reinfection.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
The desert is alive with numerous varieties of life. One of the most fascinating is the cactus longhorn beetle. What is a cactus longhorn beetle? These beautiful insects have rather scary looking mandibles and long, sleek antennae. Longhorn beetles on cactus won’t eat the plant, but their young can cause some damage. Cactus longhorn beetles live in the southwestern United States, especially in the Sonoran Desert.
What is a Cactus Longhorn Beetle?
Cactus devotees and managers of cactus gardens may shudder when they see the cactus longhorn beetle. Do cactus longhorn beetles hurt cactus? The adult is not the destroyer of the plants, but rather its progeny. The insect’s favorite plants are those that are not densely spined but also haunt Chollaand Prickly Pears. If you see holes in the plant filled with a black substance, you may well have longhorn larvae inside your cactus.
The cactus longhorn beetle has a hunched stance and elongated, almost horsy head. At an inch long or more, with shiny, black fused wings and huge antennae, cactus longhorn beetles look like they can do some damage. And they do, but not as much as their larvae. The feeding activity of the juveniles can severely damage even large cacti, which will soften in spots and eventually collapse in on itself as tissues are consumed. Fortunately, the insect has plenty of natural predators and is rarely an issue of high concern. In rare or valuable cactus specimens, a regimen of vigilance and control of cactus longhorn beetles is necessary to protect the plants. You can spot longhorn beetles on cactus in summer, in the early morning and at sunset.
Cactus Longhorn Beetle Info
The female lays individual eggs which hatch into brown headed larvae. These burrow into the cactus, secreting a green substance into the hole which hardens to a blackened tone, securing their entry. Larvae will feed on the roots and interior tissues of the cactus. They overwinter inside and emerge in spring as adults. During the day, adults hide in the sand to keep cool. Their primary objective is to mate before they die and feed infrequently but usually on tender new growth. Occasionally, adults will feed on new shoots and plants such as Portulaca. Once you see longhorn beetles on cactus, it’s time to grab a flashlight and get to work. Grab the family and mete out some old-fashioned control of cactus longhorn beetles. While adult feeding is unlikely to destroy a plant because they feed little and live a very short life, the young who hatch and overwinter in the plant have months to liquefy the interior of a cactus. This means catching the adults before they can hatch another generation of cactus predators. Adults are easy to spot when the sun is going down or just coming up. You can easily pick them off and destroy them in whatever way your karma will allow. If that means driving them out to the desert, away from your plants, by all means do that. Most people just close their eyes and step on them.
What is a Cactus Longhorn Beetle?
Cactus devotees and managers of cactus gardens may shudder when they see the cactus longhorn beetle. Do cactus longhorn beetles hurt cactus? The adult is not the destroyer of the plants, but rather its progeny. The insect’s favorite plants are those that are not densely spined but also haunt Chollaand Prickly Pears. If you see holes in the plant filled with a black substance, you may well have longhorn larvae inside your cactus.
The cactus longhorn beetle has a hunched stance and elongated, almost horsy head. At an inch long or more, with shiny, black fused wings and huge antennae, cactus longhorn beetles look like they can do some damage. And they do, but not as much as their larvae. The feeding activity of the juveniles can severely damage even large cacti, which will soften in spots and eventually collapse in on itself as tissues are consumed. Fortunately, the insect has plenty of natural predators and is rarely an issue of high concern. In rare or valuable cactus specimens, a regimen of vigilance and control of cactus longhorn beetles is necessary to protect the plants. You can spot longhorn beetles on cactus in summer, in the early morning and at sunset.
Cactus Longhorn Beetle Info
The female lays individual eggs which hatch into brown headed larvae. These burrow into the cactus, secreting a green substance into the hole which hardens to a blackened tone, securing their entry. Larvae will feed on the roots and interior tissues of the cactus. They overwinter inside and emerge in spring as adults. During the day, adults hide in the sand to keep cool. Their primary objective is to mate before they die and feed infrequently but usually on tender new growth. Occasionally, adults will feed on new shoots and plants such as Portulaca. Once you see longhorn beetles on cactus, it’s time to grab a flashlight and get to work. Grab the family and mete out some old-fashioned control of cactus longhorn beetles. While adult feeding is unlikely to destroy a plant because they feed little and live a very short life, the young who hatch and overwinter in the plant have months to liquefy the interior of a cactus. This means catching the adults before they can hatch another generation of cactus predators. Adults are easy to spot when the sun is going down or just coming up. You can easily pick them off and destroy them in whatever way your karma will allow. If that means driving them out to the desert, away from your plants, by all means do that. Most people just close their eyes and step on them.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fishbone cactus boasts many colorful names. Ric Rac, Zigzag and Fishbone orchid cactus are just a few of these descriptive monikers. The names refer to the alternate pattern of the leaves along a central spine that resembles a fish skeleton. This stunning plant is an epiphytic specimen that can grow in low soil situations where other organic media are present. Growing fishbone cactus is easy even for the so-called “black thumb” gardener. Bring in a fishbone cactus houseplant and enjoy the crazy zigzag pattern of its succulent foliage.
Fishbone Cactus Info
The scientific name for the plant is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (syn. Selenicereus anthonyanus), and is a member of the night blooming cactus family. Best known for its long, arching stems coated with serrated leaf nodes, fishbone cactus is found in its habitat in groups, which hang from trees. The plant originates in Mexico, where tropical rainforests create a moist, humid environment. It is commonly found in garden centers as Ric Rac cactus or sometimes orchid cactus. Rarely the plant will bloom with soft pink flowers that open at night and last only one day. Fishbone cactus houseplant enjoys similar growing conditions as its cousin, the orchid.
Growing Fishbone Cactus Houseplants
The trailing stems offer an interesting feature for the home landscape. Choose a basket or unglazed pot for the cactus to enhance evaporation and prevent the plant from getting too wet. You can do a hanging basket, tabletop display or terrarium installation. Either way, the fishbone cactus will enhance and entertain. Use gloves when handling the plant, since it has tiny fine hairs, which will stick into skin and cause discomfort.
Fishbone Cactus Care
Novice gardeners could not ask for an easier plant than a fishbone cactus houseplant. The cactus grows in low soil media, such as orchid substrate. You can also plant it in cactus blend mixed with compost to enrich the medium. Fishbone cactus thrives in indirect light but can tolerate periods of bright sun. Like most cacti, fishbone cactus houseplant does best when allowed to dry out between watering. During winter, cut watering in half and then reinstate when spring growth begins. Fertilize with a water-soluble cactus or orchid fertilizer in early spring. You can place your plant outside in spring and summer but do not forget to bring it in when temperatures cool. Best of all, the cactus will stand some neglect, so do not worry about it when you go on vacation.
Propagating Fishbone Cactus
This is one of the easiest cactus plants to propagate and share with your family and friends. You just need a piece of stem to start an entirely new plant. Take a fresh cutting and let it callus on the counter for a few days. Insert the callused end into a low soil medium, such as peat moss mixture. That is pretty much all there is to it. Provide light moisture and medium light when growing Fishbone cactus stems. Soon you will have new plants to spread to your gardening family.
Fishbone Cactus Info
The scientific name for the plant is Cryptocereus anthonyanus (syn. Selenicereus anthonyanus), and is a member of the night blooming cactus family. Best known for its long, arching stems coated with serrated leaf nodes, fishbone cactus is found in its habitat in groups, which hang from trees. The plant originates in Mexico, where tropical rainforests create a moist, humid environment. It is commonly found in garden centers as Ric Rac cactus or sometimes orchid cactus. Rarely the plant will bloom with soft pink flowers that open at night and last only one day. Fishbone cactus houseplant enjoys similar growing conditions as its cousin, the orchid.
Growing Fishbone Cactus Houseplants
The trailing stems offer an interesting feature for the home landscape. Choose a basket or unglazed pot for the cactus to enhance evaporation and prevent the plant from getting too wet. You can do a hanging basket, tabletop display or terrarium installation. Either way, the fishbone cactus will enhance and entertain. Use gloves when handling the plant, since it has tiny fine hairs, which will stick into skin and cause discomfort.
Fishbone Cactus Care
Novice gardeners could not ask for an easier plant than a fishbone cactus houseplant. The cactus grows in low soil media, such as orchid substrate. You can also plant it in cactus blend mixed with compost to enrich the medium. Fishbone cactus thrives in indirect light but can tolerate periods of bright sun. Like most cacti, fishbone cactus houseplant does best when allowed to dry out between watering. During winter, cut watering in half and then reinstate when spring growth begins. Fertilize with a water-soluble cactus or orchid fertilizer in early spring. You can place your plant outside in spring and summer but do not forget to bring it in when temperatures cool. Best of all, the cactus will stand some neglect, so do not worry about it when you go on vacation.
Propagating Fishbone Cactus
This is one of the easiest cactus plants to propagate and share with your family and friends. You just need a piece of stem to start an entirely new plant. Take a fresh cutting and let it callus on the counter for a few days. Insert the callused end into a low soil medium, such as peat moss mixture. That is pretty much all there is to it. Provide light moisture and medium light when growing Fishbone cactus stems. Soon you will have new plants to spread to your gardening family.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cereus tetragonus is native to North America but is only suited for cultivation outside in USDA zones 10 to 11. The fairy castle cactus is the colorful name by which the plant is marketed and refers to the numerous vertical stems of different heights that resemble spires and turrets. The plant is a succulent with spines that bloom yellow infrequently. Growing fairy castle cactus inside your home is an easy beginning gardener project. These delicately limbed cacti provide all the charm of the fairy tale castles for which they are named.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
Fairy Castle Cactus Classification
Some expert classify the cactus as a form of Acanthocereus tetragonus. It has also been given the species name hildmannianus in the genus Cereus. The susbspecies is the real puzzler. Fairy castle cactus is either in the subspecies uruguayanus or monstrose. Whichever scientific name is correct, the plant is a delightful little cactus for your home.
Information About Fairy Castle Cactus Plant
Cereus tetragonus is native to North, South and Central Americas. It is a very slow growing plant that will eventually reach 6 feet tall. The stems on fairy castle cactus plant are five sided with wooly based spines along each plane. The limbs are a bright green turning woody and brown with age. Different branches are formed over time which slowly lengthen and produce an interesting silhouette. The fairy castle cactus rarely blooms. Cacti need perfect growing conditions to produce flowers and the plants in the Cereus family bloom at night. Fairy castle cactus flowers are large and white and usually will not occur until the plant is ten years old or more. If your cactus comes with a flower, examine it carefully. It is likely a fake bloom used as a marketing ploy. There is no need to remove the fake fairy castle cactus flower, as it will fall off by itself eventually.
Fairy Castle Cactus Care
Fairy castle cactus is a full sun plant that requires well drained soil. Plant the cactus in an unglazed clay pot that allows excess moisture to evaporate. The fairy castle cactus plant will grow best in a good cactus potting soil or you can make your own. Mix one part potting soil with one part each of sand and perlite. This will make a good gritty medium for the cactus. Place the little cactus in a bright sunny location that is away from drafts or air conditioning. When you water, water until the liquid comes out of the drainage holes and then allow the soil to completely dry out before irrigating. Fairy castle cactus care is easiest in winter when you can cut in half the amount of water the plant receives. Fertilize with a good cactus fertilizer in spring when growth resumes. Feed monthly or with irrigation in a dilution that is half strength. Suspend the feeding in winter.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Dragon bone cactus is technically a succulent not a cactus. It is in the family Euphorbia or Spurge, a broad group of plants that include poinsettias and cassava. The cactus also has several other names, among them candelabra cactus, false cactus, elkhorn and mottled spurge. In northern zones, caring for dragon bone plants will require you to grow it in a greenhouse, solarium or in a sunny room. Dragon bone euphorbia is an elegant and structurally unique plant that can also live on the patio in summer as long as it is brought indoors before cool temperatures arrive.
Dragon Bone Euphorbia
Gardeners with unusual taste will go nuts for dragon bone cactus (Euphorbia lactea). The triangular branches form an eclectic scaffold upon which tiny green heart-shaped leaves and numerous reddish pink spines occur. This succulent produces latex milky sap, which may be toxic to some gardeners, so it is best to use gloves when handling broken stems. Here are a few tips on how to grow dragon bones as an in-ground plant or potted specimen for the home interior.
Dragon bone is indigenous to India but can be grown in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. The plant may achieve 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide in containers but exceeds that in the ground, growing up to 12-15 feet in height. The tiny leaves fall off as the spines are produced and are only present on new growth. Overall the plant is leafless, thorned and has numerous vertical branches rising from a stout central leader. The branches are mottled green with white lines. Flowers are rare, tiny and inconspicuous. Propagation is best accomplished through stem cuttings.
These must be allowed to callus before planting. How to Grow Dragon Bones
Northern gardeners will do best if they plant the cactus in a well-draining pot. Choose a container that will evaporate excess moisture, such as a clay pot. Use a cactus soil mix or add gritty sand and pebbles to a commercial plant formula. This euphorbia doesn’t mind being crowded in its pot. In-ground plants benefit from added grit or install the plant in a rocky area of the garden that has mixed loam. Dragon bone prefers full sun with some protection from the midday light. Propagation of dragon bone is simple through stem cuttings. Use a sterile, sharp implement and allow to dry out for a few days and callus at the cut end. Use a soilless mixture to root the cuttings. Keep lightly moist but not soggy. Once the cutting has developed roots, transfer to a container with cactus mix.
Caring for Dragon Bone Plants
As part of dragon bone plant care, you should water regularly, at least once per week in the growing season, but allow soil to dry out in the top few inches. Do not allow the roots to stand in water. In the winter, water once per month to allow for the dormant period. Prune the plant as needed to remove errant stems or keep it in a tidy habit. Use gloves when handling the plant to avoid contact with the toxic sap. Use insecticidal soap to control the occasional pests such as mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. Every two weeks in the growing season use water soluble fertilizer diluted to half for potted plants. Suspend feeding in fall and winter. In-ground plants should also be fertilized with a half dilution, which will replace the regularly scheduled irrigation. Dragon bones is a distinctive plant that is easy to care for and both drought and deer resistant. Try it in your home or landscape for matchless appeal and evocative design.
Dragon Bone Euphorbia
Gardeners with unusual taste will go nuts for dragon bone cactus (Euphorbia lactea). The triangular branches form an eclectic scaffold upon which tiny green heart-shaped leaves and numerous reddish pink spines occur. This succulent produces latex milky sap, which may be toxic to some gardeners, so it is best to use gloves when handling broken stems. Here are a few tips on how to grow dragon bones as an in-ground plant or potted specimen for the home interior.
Dragon bone is indigenous to India but can be grown in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. The plant may achieve 6 feet tall by 3 feet wide in containers but exceeds that in the ground, growing up to 12-15 feet in height. The tiny leaves fall off as the spines are produced and are only present on new growth. Overall the plant is leafless, thorned and has numerous vertical branches rising from a stout central leader. The branches are mottled green with white lines. Flowers are rare, tiny and inconspicuous. Propagation is best accomplished through stem cuttings.
These must be allowed to callus before planting. How to Grow Dragon Bones
Northern gardeners will do best if they plant the cactus in a well-draining pot. Choose a container that will evaporate excess moisture, such as a clay pot. Use a cactus soil mix or add gritty sand and pebbles to a commercial plant formula. This euphorbia doesn’t mind being crowded in its pot. In-ground plants benefit from added grit or install the plant in a rocky area of the garden that has mixed loam. Dragon bone prefers full sun with some protection from the midday light. Propagation of dragon bone is simple through stem cuttings. Use a sterile, sharp implement and allow to dry out for a few days and callus at the cut end. Use a soilless mixture to root the cuttings. Keep lightly moist but not soggy. Once the cutting has developed roots, transfer to a container with cactus mix.
Caring for Dragon Bone Plants
As part of dragon bone plant care, you should water regularly, at least once per week in the growing season, but allow soil to dry out in the top few inches. Do not allow the roots to stand in water. In the winter, water once per month to allow for the dormant period. Prune the plant as needed to remove errant stems or keep it in a tidy habit. Use gloves when handling the plant to avoid contact with the toxic sap. Use insecticidal soap to control the occasional pests such as mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. Every two weeks in the growing season use water soluble fertilizer diluted to half for potted plants. Suspend feeding in fall and winter. In-ground plants should also be fertilized with a half dilution, which will replace the regularly scheduled irrigation. Dragon bones is a distinctive plant that is easy to care for and both drought and deer resistant. Try it in your home or landscape for matchless appeal and evocative design.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum cactus are also called orchid cactus due to their lovely flowers. The flowers turn into a chubby little fruit filled with tiny seeds. Growing Ephiphyllum seeds will take some patience but it is a rewarding endeavor that will give you more of these beautiful epiphytic cacti. Epiphyllum have flat-leaf stems set in disjointed connections. The stems produce brilliantly colored flowers that may span up to nearly 10 inches in diameter but are more commonly an inch or two. As epiphytes, these plants grow on trees in their native regions. As houseplants, they prefer a lightly gritty soil with peat moss as an addition.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum are epiphytic cacti as their name suggests. Some call them orchid cactus due to their large bright blooms and growth habit. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants, not in a parasitic fashion but as hosts. They are not cold hardy and generally can be found only as houseplants or greenhouse specimens. Caring for Epiphyllums is a water balancing act. They can’t be allowed to dry out, yet overwatering is a death sentence to these cacti. Here are a few tips on how to grow Epiphyllum and achieve healthy plants that will astound with their blooms and fruit.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cacti come in a bewildering array of forms. These marvelous succulents have incredible adaptations to survive the inhospitable terrains they generally inhabit. Epiphyllum curly locks is an example of a cactus that uses its stems to capture more moisture and light. The plant has curly, curved stems which are the result of a mutation of a plant called Epiphyllum guatemalense. The name for this mutated cactus is Epiphyllum monstrosa. If you know someone with the plant, it is easy to learn how to grow curly locks from stem fragments.
Epiphyllum Curly Locks Info
Epiphytic plants live in trees and rock crevasses. The mother of the Epiphyllum cactus, curly locks, was from Guatemala. It was a plant that sprouted one or more abnormal curved stems. These were harvested and cloned to produce the crazy little cactus we propagate today. These plants are wonderful hanging basket specimens and make quite the conversation piece with their twisted, arching limbs.
In nature, curly locks might be growing in a tree crotch or other almost soilless area. Epiphyllums are often called air plants because they do not rely upon terra firma as their growing medium. Curly locks have bright green, twisting stems. It produces 3-inch wide white flowers with 6-inch long tubes that open at night. This is because in nature it is pollinated by moths and bats, and these night animals can see the big white blooms easily. Oval, bright pink seedy fruits form once blooms are pollinated. These fruits are juicy and edible. The plant is also self-pollinating and fruits can form even without the intervention of insects and mammals. Epiphyllum plants are often called orchid cacti.
How to Grow Curly Locks
Most Epiphyllum cacti are easy to grow from pieces of the stem. Allow cut pieces to callus for several days then plant into an appropriate medium. Make your own potting mix with 3 parts commercial potting soil and 1 part small to medium pumice. If pumice is not available, use bark chips or perlite. The soil must hold moisture but drain quickly. Keep the cutting in low light until it roots. Do not let the medium dry out but don’t let it get soggy either. The orchid cactus cutting needs to be installed 1 or 2 inches below the soil at a serration. Rooting should occur in a couple of weeks and after that the plant really takes off, producing new curled stems.
Curly Locks Orchid Cactus Care
The biggest danger is overwatering. The cactus needs to have moist roots at all times but they should not be sitting in a dish of water. Make sure the top 1/3 of the soil is dry before watering. In late winter, expose the cactus to cooler temperatures to promote spring flowering. Keep them in the basement or a garage for a couple of weeks to spur bud formation. The other biggest danger when raising Epiphyllums is lighting. Consider that these plants grow in thick forests in the understory and are used to dappled light at best. Just like any plant, they need light but should be protected from bright midday light. Morning sun is preferable with indirect light the rest of the way. If you find a spot where the cactus is happy, make sure to leave it there, as they do not like change. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted weekly during the growing season. In February, feed the plant with a 2-10-10 to promote blooming. Repot every 7 years or so, but be warned, the plant only blooms when it is pot bound. It might be best to wait and see if you get flowers before giving the plant a new home.
Epiphyllum Curly Locks Info
Epiphytic plants live in trees and rock crevasses. The mother of the Epiphyllum cactus, curly locks, was from Guatemala. It was a plant that sprouted one or more abnormal curved stems. These were harvested and cloned to produce the crazy little cactus we propagate today. These plants are wonderful hanging basket specimens and make quite the conversation piece with their twisted, arching limbs.
In nature, curly locks might be growing in a tree crotch or other almost soilless area. Epiphyllums are often called air plants because they do not rely upon terra firma as their growing medium. Curly locks have bright green, twisting stems. It produces 3-inch wide white flowers with 6-inch long tubes that open at night. This is because in nature it is pollinated by moths and bats, and these night animals can see the big white blooms easily. Oval, bright pink seedy fruits form once blooms are pollinated. These fruits are juicy and edible. The plant is also self-pollinating and fruits can form even without the intervention of insects and mammals. Epiphyllum plants are often called orchid cacti.
How to Grow Curly Locks
Most Epiphyllum cacti are easy to grow from pieces of the stem. Allow cut pieces to callus for several days then plant into an appropriate medium. Make your own potting mix with 3 parts commercial potting soil and 1 part small to medium pumice. If pumice is not available, use bark chips or perlite. The soil must hold moisture but drain quickly. Keep the cutting in low light until it roots. Do not let the medium dry out but don’t let it get soggy either. The orchid cactus cutting needs to be installed 1 or 2 inches below the soil at a serration. Rooting should occur in a couple of weeks and after that the plant really takes off, producing new curled stems.
Curly Locks Orchid Cactus Care
The biggest danger is overwatering. The cactus needs to have moist roots at all times but they should not be sitting in a dish of water. Make sure the top 1/3 of the soil is dry before watering. In late winter, expose the cactus to cooler temperatures to promote spring flowering. Keep them in the basement or a garage for a couple of weeks to spur bud formation. The other biggest danger when raising Epiphyllums is lighting. Consider that these plants grow in thick forests in the understory and are used to dappled light at best. Just like any plant, they need light but should be protected from bright midday light. Morning sun is preferable with indirect light the rest of the way. If you find a spot where the cactus is happy, make sure to leave it there, as they do not like change. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted weekly during the growing season. In February, feed the plant with a 2-10-10 to promote blooming. Repot every 7 years or so, but be warned, the plant only blooms when it is pot bound. It might be best to wait and see if you get flowers before giving the plant a new home.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Hybridization has given us a host of beautiful and unusual plants to choose from when decorating our homes. The cactus family is a perfect example of the spectrum of plants available. The holiday plants such as the Christmas and Easter cactus, are the hybrids of the Brazilian forest cactus. These segmented plants bloom at certain times of the year, which gives them the holiday designations.
What is the Difference Between a Christmas Cactus and an Easter Cactus?
The Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are members of the Schlumbergera family, while the Easter cactus is a Rhipsalidopsis. The former hails from Brazilian rainforests while the latter is from drier forests. Christmas cactus blooms around the winter holidays. The Easter cactus plant blooms late winter to early spring. Both types have flattened stems, called segments, which are lightly serrated on the edges.
The segments are actually the leaves of the plant. About Easter Cactus Plant
The Easter cactus plant (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerii) comes in a variety of bloom colors. Usually they are in bloom at the time of purchase and are common holiday gifts. Flower tones range from white to red, orange, peach, lavender and pink. Even following its bloom, the plant has an interesting appeal in its unusual shape. The segments are added onto by new growth, creating a rickety stacked appearance. The plant doesn’t have the same spines as a dessert cactus but a more undulating form with softer pointed nodes on the edges of the leaves. Getting an Easter cactus to bloom the next year requires a special set of conditions which amount to a form of neglect.
How to Care for Easter Cactus
These plants perform best in bright light, but not direct sunlight. Unlike dessert cacti, these plants need cooler temperatures, even during the day, and will bloom for months in nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. (13-16 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and allow it to dry out before watering again. Good Easter cactus care means repotting the plant every two years in spring. The plants enjoy being pot bound, but give it new soil and return the plant to the same pot. Fertilize monthly after the bloom period with a 10-10-10 or food with a low nitrogen count. Provide some humidity if your home is dry. Place the plant on a saucer filled with pebbles and a little water. The evaporation will moisten the air around the plant. Getting an Easter Cactus to Bloom
If you followed your Easter cactus care faithfully, you should have a healthy green cactus. These delightful plants actually need cool temperatures and long nights to set buds. To accomplish flowers, you must be a little rude to them. First stop feeding them. Then move the plant where it has 12 to 14 hours of darkness. Best bud set occurs when temperatures are 50 F, (10 C.). Water sparingly from October to November. By December, you can move the plant somewhere warmer with a 60 to 65 degree range (16-18 C.). The plant will flower in February to March.
What is the Difference Between a Christmas Cactus and an Easter Cactus?
The Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are members of the Schlumbergera family, while the Easter cactus is a Rhipsalidopsis. The former hails from Brazilian rainforests while the latter is from drier forests. Christmas cactus blooms around the winter holidays. The Easter cactus plant blooms late winter to early spring. Both types have flattened stems, called segments, which are lightly serrated on the edges.
The segments are actually the leaves of the plant. About Easter Cactus Plant
The Easter cactus plant (Rhipsalidopsis gaertnerii) comes in a variety of bloom colors. Usually they are in bloom at the time of purchase and are common holiday gifts. Flower tones range from white to red, orange, peach, lavender and pink. Even following its bloom, the plant has an interesting appeal in its unusual shape. The segments are added onto by new growth, creating a rickety stacked appearance. The plant doesn’t have the same spines as a dessert cactus but a more undulating form with softer pointed nodes on the edges of the leaves. Getting an Easter cactus to bloom the next year requires a special set of conditions which amount to a form of neglect.
How to Care for Easter Cactus
These plants perform best in bright light, but not direct sunlight. Unlike dessert cacti, these plants need cooler temperatures, even during the day, and will bloom for months in nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. (13-16 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and allow it to dry out before watering again. Good Easter cactus care means repotting the plant every two years in spring. The plants enjoy being pot bound, but give it new soil and return the plant to the same pot. Fertilize monthly after the bloom period with a 10-10-10 or food with a low nitrogen count. Provide some humidity if your home is dry. Place the plant on a saucer filled with pebbles and a little water. The evaporation will moisten the air around the plant. Getting an Easter Cactus to Bloom
If you followed your Easter cactus care faithfully, you should have a healthy green cactus. These delightful plants actually need cool temperatures and long nights to set buds. To accomplish flowers, you must be a little rude to them. First stop feeding them. Then move the plant where it has 12 to 14 hours of darkness. Best bud set occurs when temperatures are 50 F, (10 C.). Water sparingly from October to November. By December, you can move the plant somewhere warmer with a 60 to 65 degree range (16-18 C.). The plant will flower in February to March.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a popular gift and houseplant. Blooming specifically during periods with long nights, it’s a welcome flash of color in the dead of winter. If you’re looking to plant or repot a Christmas cactus, however, you should be aware of a few specific soil requirements to ensure a good bloom in the next season. Keep reading to learn about soil requirements for Christmas cactus.
Christmas Cactus Soil Requirements
In its native Brazil, the Christmas cactus has very specific growing conditions. It’s an epiphyte, meaning it grows on the trunks of larger trees and gains most of its moisture from the air. It sinks its roots into decomposing leaves and debris resting on the sides of trees. It also draws some moisture from this makeshift soil, but because of its small volume and position high in the air, this soil dries out easily even with daily rainfall. This means that the best soil for Christmas cactus is extremely well draining.
How to Make a Potting Mix for Christmas Cactus
You can buy commercial potting mixes for cacti that will ensure good drainage. With just a little effort, however, you can make your own. The easiest medium requires three parts regular potting soil mixed with two parts perlite. This will provide perfectly adequate drainage. If you’d like to take it a step further, mix equal parts compost, perlite, and milled peat. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the soil is dry – try not to let the soil dry out completely, but don’t let water stand in the pot or the saucer underneath. Drainage is much more important than water volume. Used to growing in small nooks on trees, the Christmas cactus likes being slightly root bound. Plant it in a pot that provides just a little room for growth, and transplant it no more frequently than every three years.
Christmas Cactus Soil Requirements
In its native Brazil, the Christmas cactus has very specific growing conditions. It’s an epiphyte, meaning it grows on the trunks of larger trees and gains most of its moisture from the air. It sinks its roots into decomposing leaves and debris resting on the sides of trees. It also draws some moisture from this makeshift soil, but because of its small volume and position high in the air, this soil dries out easily even with daily rainfall. This means that the best soil for Christmas cactus is extremely well draining.
How to Make a Potting Mix for Christmas Cactus
You can buy commercial potting mixes for cacti that will ensure good drainage. With just a little effort, however, you can make your own. The easiest medium requires three parts regular potting soil mixed with two parts perlite. This will provide perfectly adequate drainage. If you’d like to take it a step further, mix equal parts compost, perlite, and milled peat. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the soil is dry – try not to let the soil dry out completely, but don’t let water stand in the pot or the saucer underneath. Drainage is much more important than water volume. Used to growing in small nooks on trees, the Christmas cactus likes being slightly root bound. Plant it in a pot that provides just a little room for growth, and transplant it no more frequently than every three years.
0
0
