文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
"How to prune a cactus" sounds like a lead-in to a bad joke, the answer to which would be: "Carefully!" But caution is indeed the watchword when working with cacti (Cactaceae), since their protective needles can be very painful if they find their way into your skin. Fortunately, this is a very infrequent task for your to-do list: Unless seriously diseased or damaged, cacti can typically go for years without being trimmed. The main purpose for occasional trimming of healthy cactus plants is to minimize their susceptibility to disease and optimize their appearance.
Step 1
Cover yourself completely with protective clothing when pruning large cactus plants outdoors. Wear long sleeves and pants and put on heavy leather gloves and shoes or boots. For added protection, cover your face with a bandana, wear a hat and don plastic safety goggles to protect your eyes. When cutting small, indoor plants, such extensive measures generally are not necessary; protective gloves are usually sufficient.
Step 2
Cover the ground around the cactus you are pruning with an old sheet, carpet scraps or newspapers. This collects the needles and smaller pieces of the plant as you prune it and keeps them contained for easier disposal. Place a large trash can and shovel nearby to dispose of larger pieces of the cactus.
Step 3
Mix a solution of 1 part household bleach to 3 parts water and submerge the blades of your pruning tools in it for five minutes. Then let them air-dry. Sterilize your tools as you move from one plant to another to reduce the risk of spreading disease.
Step 4
Cut back to a new pad when trimming prickly pear cactus (genus Opuntia), U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b to 9b. Use a hand saw or loppers to cut off sections of the pads you want to remove, until you have removed them. You may want to use long-handled tongs to grasp cut pads and bring them down in a controlled manner. Finally, according to Joe Marcus of the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, make a clean cut a few inches above the stem where you will make your final cut. This prevents the stem from splitting.
Step 5
Prune columnar cacti, such as saguaro (Cereus giganteus) or organpipe (Stenocereus thurberi), USDA zones 9a to 10a, with either the hand saw or garden lopper. Cut off knobs or offshoot columns to prune back weak or discolored sections of the cactus. To thin out an overgrown plant, cut off one or more entire columns at the base of the cactus.
Step 6
Discard the pruned pieces of the cactus carefully. Use the shovel to scoop up larger pieces and carry them to the trash can for disposal. Carefully gather up the corners or edges of the ground cover containing the smaller pieces and carry the entire bundle to the trash can.
Step 1
Cover yourself completely with protective clothing when pruning large cactus plants outdoors. Wear long sleeves and pants and put on heavy leather gloves and shoes or boots. For added protection, cover your face with a bandana, wear a hat and don plastic safety goggles to protect your eyes. When cutting small, indoor plants, such extensive measures generally are not necessary; protective gloves are usually sufficient.
Step 2
Cover the ground around the cactus you are pruning with an old sheet, carpet scraps or newspapers. This collects the needles and smaller pieces of the plant as you prune it and keeps them contained for easier disposal. Place a large trash can and shovel nearby to dispose of larger pieces of the cactus.
Step 3
Mix a solution of 1 part household bleach to 3 parts water and submerge the blades of your pruning tools in it for five minutes. Then let them air-dry. Sterilize your tools as you move from one plant to another to reduce the risk of spreading disease.
Step 4
Cut back to a new pad when trimming prickly pear cactus (genus Opuntia), U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b to 9b. Use a hand saw or loppers to cut off sections of the pads you want to remove, until you have removed them. You may want to use long-handled tongs to grasp cut pads and bring them down in a controlled manner. Finally, according to Joe Marcus of the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, make a clean cut a few inches above the stem where you will make your final cut. This prevents the stem from splitting.
Step 5
Prune columnar cacti, such as saguaro (Cereus giganteus) or organpipe (Stenocereus thurberi), USDA zones 9a to 10a, with either the hand saw or garden lopper. Cut off knobs or offshoot columns to prune back weak or discolored sections of the cactus. To thin out an overgrown plant, cut off one or more entire columns at the base of the cactus.
Step 6
Discard the pruned pieces of the cactus carefully. Use the shovel to scoop up larger pieces and carry them to the trash can for disposal. Carefully gather up the corners or edges of the ground cover containing the smaller pieces and carry the entire bundle to the trash can.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Dragon fruit is the edible fruit from the Pitaya cactus, a member of the Hylocereus genus. It is called dragon fruit for the scales on the outside of the fruit, which remind people of a dragon. While the cactus must be protected from freezing, it makes an attractive climbing houseplant in colder areas. It is easy to start from seed.
Step 1
Look online for seeds. If you can't find seeds, buy a dragon fruit, which can be found at many Asian markets. They come in yellow, red and magenta colors.
Step 2
Cut the fruit in half. Scoop out a teaspoon of pulp, making sure you get some of the black seeds. Mash the pulp in a small amount of water to separate the seeds.
Step 3
Clean the gelatinous pulp from the seeds. You won't need many seeds, because the germination rate is high. Enjoy the rest of the dragon fruit as a snack.
Step 4
Fill a shallow container with a planting medium made from equal parts seed-starting mix and sand. Moisten the mixture. Sprinkle the seeds on the top of the medium and barely cover them with sand. Seeds need light to germinate.
Step 5
Place the container in a plastic bag to retain moisture. Set it in a warm spot that gets plenty of light. Check daily; seeds start germinating anywhere from one to 14 days after planting. After germination, remove the plastic bag.
Step 6
Do not overwater the young cacti. After several months of growth, pot each small plant in its own container.
Step 1
Look online for seeds. If you can't find seeds, buy a dragon fruit, which can be found at many Asian markets. They come in yellow, red and magenta colors.
Step 2
Cut the fruit in half. Scoop out a teaspoon of pulp, making sure you get some of the black seeds. Mash the pulp in a small amount of water to separate the seeds.
Step 3
Clean the gelatinous pulp from the seeds. You won't need many seeds, because the germination rate is high. Enjoy the rest of the dragon fruit as a snack.
Step 4
Fill a shallow container with a planting medium made from equal parts seed-starting mix and sand. Moisten the mixture. Sprinkle the seeds on the top of the medium and barely cover them with sand. Seeds need light to germinate.
Step 5
Place the container in a plastic bag to retain moisture. Set it in a warm spot that gets plenty of light. Check daily; seeds start germinating anywhere from one to 14 days after planting. After germination, remove the plastic bag.
Step 6
Do not overwater the young cacti. After several months of growth, pot each small plant in its own container.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas Cacti are notoriously difficult to root. This article might help you in rooting pieces for new plants or just rooting another in the same pot with the parent plant.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant
Step 1
Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root.
Step 2
Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from.
Step 3
Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4
The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it.
Step 5
When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant
Step 1
Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root.
Step 2
Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from.
Step 3
Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4
The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it.
Step 5
When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The spineless tropical cactus night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) produces spiderlike fragrant flowers that open in the evening. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 and it doesn't tolerate any frost, but it grows well as a houseplant or as a potted outdoor plant that's overwintered indoors in colder climates. Night-blooming cereus requires only basic care and it is a relatively low-maintenance plant, whether grown outdoors or inside.
Step 1
Set potted night-blooming cereus plants in an area that receives all-day, filtered sunlight, bright but indirect sunlight, or morning sun and afternoon shade. Place the plants outdoors if temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night. In warm, frost-free climates, grow the cactus in a well-drained, slightly sandy garden bed that receives some shade.
Step 2
Water the night-blooming cereus when the soil surface looks dry, but before the soil dries out completely. Sprinkle the water on the soil, keeping the cactus leaves dry, until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot or until the top 6 inches of soil feel moist in a garden bed. Water regularly from spring through early fall. Garden-grown and fully mature potted plants don't require winter watering. Water young pot-grown plants only when the soil dries in completely in winter. Properly watered cactus plants rarely suffer from stem rot or fungal problems.
Step 3
Mix 1/4 teaspoon of a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15 blend, or of a bloom-inducing fertilizer, such as a 7-9-5 blend, with 1 gallon of water. Water the night-blooming cereus with the fertilizer solution once weekly during the active spring and summer growing season. Check the label because rates vary among brands and use one-fourth of the recommended concentration.
Step 4
Cut back any overgrown or damaged leaf stems after the cactus finishes flowering. Wipe a sharp knife with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect it before making a cut. Cut through leaf stems cleanly, cutting them back to the desired height but removing no more than one-third of their length.
Step 5
Bring potted plants indoors before the temperature drops below 40 F in fall or early winter. Temperatures below 35 F can kill the plant. Place the pot near a sunny window and water sparingly when the the soil dries completely. Move the pot back outdoors in spring after frost danger has passed.
Step 6
Inspect the leaves for white cottony masses that can indicate a mealybug infestation, the primary pest of night-blooming cereus. Remove the mealybugs by hand or dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and dab it onto the bugs to kill them. Monitor the plant daily and remove or kill any new mealybugs until the pests are gone.
Step 1
Set potted night-blooming cereus plants in an area that receives all-day, filtered sunlight, bright but indirect sunlight, or morning sun and afternoon shade. Place the plants outdoors if temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night. In warm, frost-free climates, grow the cactus in a well-drained, slightly sandy garden bed that receives some shade.
Step 2
Water the night-blooming cereus when the soil surface looks dry, but before the soil dries out completely. Sprinkle the water on the soil, keeping the cactus leaves dry, until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot or until the top 6 inches of soil feel moist in a garden bed. Water regularly from spring through early fall. Garden-grown and fully mature potted plants don't require winter watering. Water young pot-grown plants only when the soil dries in completely in winter. Properly watered cactus plants rarely suffer from stem rot or fungal problems.
Step 3
Mix 1/4 teaspoon of a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15 blend, or of a bloom-inducing fertilizer, such as a 7-9-5 blend, with 1 gallon of water. Water the night-blooming cereus with the fertilizer solution once weekly during the active spring and summer growing season. Check the label because rates vary among brands and use one-fourth of the recommended concentration.
Step 4
Cut back any overgrown or damaged leaf stems after the cactus finishes flowering. Wipe a sharp knife with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect it before making a cut. Cut through leaf stems cleanly, cutting them back to the desired height but removing no more than one-third of their length.
Step 5
Bring potted plants indoors before the temperature drops below 40 F in fall or early winter. Temperatures below 35 F can kill the plant. Place the pot near a sunny window and water sparingly when the the soil dries completely. Move the pot back outdoors in spring after frost danger has passed.
Step 6
Inspect the leaves for white cottony masses that can indicate a mealybug infestation, the primary pest of night-blooming cereus. Remove the mealybugs by hand or dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and dab it onto the bugs to kill them. Monitor the plant daily and remove or kill any new mealybugs until the pests are gone.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Like the more familiar Christmas cactus, the Easter cactus is a flowering jungle cactus. Because this cactus originated in the jungle rather than the arid regions common among cactus plants, its care is slightly different than that of other cactus plants. The Easter cactus can survive cold up to 28 degrees Fahrenheit, but is commonly brought indoors during the winter months so you can manage its light and watering requirements.
Christmas cactus
credit: Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
Step 1
Place the cactus in a cool environment during its dormant period of October to February. You'll want to water the plant only when the soil has dried out between waterings. To tell if it's the right time, touch the soil with your fingers. If the soil clings to your fingers, it's still wet. Water when the soil slips off your fingers.
Step 2
Move the Easter cactus into a colder environment, about 50 to 55 F, toward the end of the dormant season as buds begin to develop. If temperatures are much warmer, your Easter cactus will not bloom.
Step 3
Move the Easter cactus to a warmer room with more light once the buds are established. You'll want to keep a temperature near 60 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is blooming, typically from April to May. Make sure you water deeply during this time, and water while the soil is still moist.
Step 4
Move the plant outside during summer months to benefit from the natural sunlight. Keep an Easter cactus in a partially sunny spot. If you live in an area that has slugs, place the plant in a hanging basket to avoid a slug infestation. Move the plant indoors by September or October to get it ready for the dormant season.
Step 5
Place the plant in a cool room. Keep the soil moist but don't offer too much water. Continue to care for your Easter cactus in this fashion until February when new blooms begin to appear.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Just like any other plant, your cactus can develop a fungal infection. It is usually a fairly simple issue to get rid of cactus fungus, but if the fungus has grown as a result of a wound to the plant, you might have a tougher time eradicating the problem. Fortunately, cactus fungus is susceptible to natural methods and commercial fungicides, so it can usually be treated before it kills the plant.
Step 1
Remove exposed and infected plant material. If the cactus fungus is growing where a leaf has broken off, then you will need to cut off the infected area. Cut behind the infection so that you can throw the fungus away entirely.
Step 2
Swab the fungus with rubbing alcohol. In many cases, fungus on cacti is accompanied by secondary infections of mealy bugs or gnats. The rubbing alcohol will kill these invaders as well as weakening or killing the fungus. Make sure that you actually rub the fungus off the cactus when you are applying the rubbing alcohol.
Step 3
Treat isolated infections with cooking vinegar. If a single leaf has been infected, then cover the surface of the leaf with vinegar. This will kill the fungus and cause the leaf to drop off naturally so that you do not expose the interior of the cactus to additional infection.
Step 4
Dust the plant with Bordeaux mixture. This is a fungicide that is safe to put on the surface of the cactus as well as on exposed interior areas where you have been forced to cut. It will kill the fungus without hurting the plant。
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
A straw flower cactus is a cactus that has a straw flower (or strawflower) attached to it, either with hot glue or a pin. The flower is the bract of Xerochrysum bracteatum and is named for its papery, straw-like texture. The flowers are used to "dress up" the cactus, usually to enhance sales. Many home gardeners are fooled into believing that the attached flowers are the actual flowers of the cactus. Straw flowers have the unusual ability to open and close, even though dead, in response to the level of humidity in the air. Although this action may seem lifelike, the flowers require no extra care beyond what you give the cactus.
Step 1
Place your cactus near a window that gets bright but indirect light. Do not place it directly in the hot sun. Most potted cacti were either raised indoors or in a greenhouse and can sunburn, according to information published by Texas A&M University. In addition, the straw flowers fade in the sun. If you want to set your cactus outside, place it in a location that receives partial shade and gradually move it into a sunnier location.
Step 2
Feed your cactus soon after you bring it home. Potted plants need a dose of nutrients added to the soil now and then. Once every six months use a water-soluble, slow-release fertilizer formulated for cacti and succulents. Alternatively, give the cactus a low dose of 5-10-5 fertilizer once in the spring, summer and again in the fall.
Step 3
Water your cactus when the soil dries out. Cacti are drought-tolerant plants and can be left without water for several weeks. In general, water once a month, or when a stick inserted to the bottom of the pot is still dry when pulled out.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Most Florida cactus plants produce flat stems and no leaves. However, they have characteristics that distinguish them from one another. The prickly pear cactus, for instance, produces flowers while a Christmas cactus might drop berries. Others, like the triangle cactus, only bloom at night. Florida's warm climate is the home to different species of cactus, some of which you can find in nurseries for home growth.
Christmas cactus.
The Christmas cactus is a rain forest native that needs more moisture and shade than desert cacti. This plant doesn't have leaves, but it produces flowers that bloom at the tip of flat stems that look like foliage. It grows in soil that's rich and moist. It does well as a container plant.
Prickly pear cactus.
Prickly pear is an edible cactus with nine species native to Florida, devil's tongue being one. This cactus grows 18 inches tall with a wide spread. Its flat stems look like leaves and produce 3 inch long spines, as well as smaller ones called "glochids." The bright yellow prickly pear flowers bloom one at a time for several weeks, each lasting only one day.
Close up of triangle cactus.
Triangle cactus grows in Florida, producing a large night-blooming flower that attracts hummingbird moths. Spines sprout from the cactus' leaf-like stems. The plant also produces an edible sweet red fruit. Triangle cactus tolerates freezing temperatures down to 20 degrees F.
Night blooming Cereus flower.
This climbing cactus has no spines and produces large fragrant flowers that bloom for a night in the summer. According to the Cornell University Cooperative Extension Service, night-blooming cereus needs little care to thrive and will spread like a vine up to 40 feet long. To control its propagation, it's best to grow it in a container.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Dragon fruit originated in Central America. Also called pitaya fruit, this plant has been cultivated since the 13th century. Dragon fruit, like other cactus, needs warm growing conditions. When pitaya matures, it makes an excellent eating fruit or component for wine and flavorings. When consumed in fresh or dried form dragon fruit provides carotene, digestive fiber, protein, phosphorus, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 and Vitamin C.
Step 1
Choose your plant. Dragon fruit can grow from seeds, but many people prefer a seedling so the cactus grows more quickly. Obtain the seedling from a reliable nursery. Those that sell cactus are the most likely to offer dragon fruit.
Step 2
Place some rocks in the bottom of a pot that's at least 2 feet deep and wide, followed by a 2-inch covering of sand for good drainage. Position a trellis in the middle and pour in good potting soil to hold it in place. Push the seedling down into the dirt so just the very top peeks through the soil.
Step 3
Add water to the soil. It should feel damp but not soggy. Dragon fruit is susceptible to root rot. Also, as a succulent it naturally holds a lot of water so you don't need to keep it overly wet.
Step 4
Cover the pot using a piece of clear food storage plastic with tiny holes poked through. A toothpick works nicely. Move the pot to a partly sunny window or in front of a grow light. Dragon fruit requires about 4 hours of direct sun daily, followed by partial light for another 4.
Step 5
Adjust the temperature of the room in which your dragon fruit grows. They like it around 100 degrees F. A heat lamp can provide the temperature desired.
Step 6
Move the seedling deeper in the soil. After about two weeks, the seedling should be about 3 inches tall. It's now ready to move further down into the soil so it doesn't become root-bound. Move it carefully, gently shaking the roots to move it out and then replacing it in the pot, leaving about 1 inch out of the soil. When the plant grows about 6 inches, tie it to the trellis for security. Your plant should begin flowering in about six to eight months.
Step 7
Get fruit by pairing Hylocereus undatus and Hylocerus polyrhizus seedlings and cross-pollinate them. Wait for the flowers of both to open, usually at night, then gather pollen from anthers of both plants with a cotton swab, transferring it to the stigma of the other plant. You've just done the work of bees and other pollinators.
Step 8
Once fruit develops, watch for signs of ripeness before picking the fruit. The skin will appear yellow or red instead of green, the fruit will easily release from the tree, a rich fruity aroma will emit from the dragon fruit, and the fruit will feel tender when squeezed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants comes in various shapes and sizes. This means that removing a cactus involves different steps depending on the overall size and growth of the cactus in question. While some cacti are too large to cut down with gardening tools, others can be removed by simply using a spade. When you are removing a cactus plant from your garden, be careful because the spines and needles can cause severe pain if lodged in the skin. Wear thick gloves as well as long clothing to prevent accidental contact with the spines.
Step 1
Cut the cactus plant into small pieces or pads using a chainsaw. Cut horizontally, so the pieces slide off the cactus plant and land beside the plant.
Step 2
Haul away the cactus pieces or cover them with a foot or more of fresh horse manure. The fertilizer will cause the cactus pads to rot away within six months.
Step 3
Return to the roots and remove them using a spade. Dig deep down before applying weight to the spade to lift up the roots, as the roots can be growing deep in the soil. If the roots break in the process, ensure that you go back with a hand shovel to remove the remaining roots, as cactus roots will continue to grow.
Step 4
Stir up the soil where the cactus was located, using a hand rake. Scatter some native grass seed into the soil and water it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus is aptly named because it blooms just in time for the holiday season, although older plants may keep an erratic blooming schedule. Starting a new Christmas cactus is an ideal way to ensure that you enjoy its festive blooms on time. You can actually start a Christmas cactus by taking a stem cutting from an already established plant, which ensures that your new cactus takes on the same characteristics as its "parent" plant.
Step 1
Locate a healthy stem with three or more segments on a Christmas cactus. Grasp the stem by the base and gently twist it away from the cactus. Allow the stem to dry on a paper towel overnight.
Step 2
Prepare a planting pot. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom, and set it on a tray. Fill the pot with a mixture of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part sand and 1 part potting soil.
Step 3
Brush aside some of the planting medium so you can plant the stem. Press the stem into the planting medium with the lower one-fourth to one-half of the bottom segment -- where you twisted it from the original plant -- sitting below the soil. Gently water the stem with a spray bottle.
Step 4
Place the pot in an area that receives indirect sunlight. Don't be alarmed if the stem starts to show signs of wilting. This is normal, and the stem should spring back to good health, with signs of new growth within a week or two.
Step 5
Spritz the cactus once a day until it starts exhibiting new growth. When this happens, you can begin watering it as you normally would. Wait until the soil is dry, then water until it's moist. You should also move the plant into direct sunlight.
Step 1
Locate a healthy stem with three or more segments on a Christmas cactus. Grasp the stem by the base and gently twist it away from the cactus. Allow the stem to dry on a paper towel overnight.
Step 2
Prepare a planting pot. Select a pot with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom, and set it on a tray. Fill the pot with a mixture of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part sand and 1 part potting soil.
Step 3
Brush aside some of the planting medium so you can plant the stem. Press the stem into the planting medium with the lower one-fourth to one-half of the bottom segment -- where you twisted it from the original plant -- sitting below the soil. Gently water the stem with a spray bottle.
Step 4
Place the pot in an area that receives indirect sunlight. Don't be alarmed if the stem starts to show signs of wilting. This is normal, and the stem should spring back to good health, with signs of new growth within a week or two.
Step 5
Spritz the cactus once a day until it starts exhibiting new growth. When this happens, you can begin watering it as you normally would. Wait until the soil is dry, then water until it's moist. You should also move the plant into direct sunlight.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Whether you transplant small 'Black' hens and chicks (Sempervivum 'Black') -- hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9 -- or a larger succulent such as a prickly pear cactus (Opuntia spp.) -- hardy from USDA zones 3b through 11, the keys to success lie in proper soil with good drainage. Therefore, you'll probably spend more time preparing the new growing area than you will transplanting your succulents. Also check each succulent's light requirements before you transplant because a succulent variety may need full sun or shade.
Cactus
credit: fotokate/iStock/Getty Images
Some succulents spread, and their growth habits indicate how much space they need.
Check Drainage
Many types of succulents exist, and what makes a plant a succulent is its ability to draw and store water in its tissues. Succulents also don't tolerate having wet roots, however. So the transplant location you choose for them should have good drainage. Avoid transplanting succulents to low spots.
Check a site's drainage by digging a hole in it when its topsoil is moist. Make the hole 12 inches in diameter and 12 inches deep. Fill the hole with water, and monitor its drainage. If water drains from the hole in fewer than three hours, then the soil has good drainage. If it takes three to 12 hours to drain, then the drainage is OK for most landscaping plants, but you still could improve the drainage. A hole that takes more than 12 hours to drain means the soil has poor drainage that definitely needs to be improved.
Fix Drainage in a Dry Climate
If you live in a dry climate, one way to improve soil drainage is to add a layer of gravel in the bottom of your desired planting area. Dig about 2 feet deep in the entire planting area. Place a 12-inch-thick layer of gravel in the excavated site, and follow it with a few inches of the soil you removed while digging. Over the top of the soil, place 6 to 8 inches of sharp sand. Afterward, the site will offer good drainage for succulents such as prickly pear.
Fix Drainage in a Wet Climate
If you live in a wet climate, create good drainage with an elevated "rock garden." On top of the current soil, set a layer of large, 8- to 12-inch-high rocks. Add coarse sand or pea gravel on the rocks, and then wet the site. Allow it to dry for a few days. Finally, add 3 to 4 inches of scree. A scree suggested by Urban Horticulture Program Assistant John McLaughlin, Ph.D., in an article on the University of Florida IFAS Extension website is a mixture that is 1 part Canadian sphagnum peat, 1 part potting soil, 2 parts course sand and 6 parts bonsai or poultry grit, which is small pebbles of porous granite or other stone. Mix the scree ingredients in a wheelbarrow, and then dump the mixture on top of the sand or pea gravel. Spread the scree evenly across the pile's top. Then cover it with a 1-inch-thick layer of 1/2-inch gravel.
Plant Properly
The temperature at transplanting time should be at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit and not lower than 50 F, especially if you transplant small succulents. Wear a pair of thick, leather work gloves to avoid injuries from succulents' prickly points.
If a succulent you want to transplant is in the ground, then use a trowel or shovel to loosen the soil, sand or gravel several inches from the plant's perimeter, and gently remove the plant from the ground. Lightly brush soil from the roots.
Dig into the new planting site's soil material, making a hole deep and wide enough for the root spread of the succulent you want to put in the hole. Place the root part of the plant in the hole, and allow the fleshy or stem parts of the plant to remain above the soil line. Spread the roots, and cover them with the site's soil material, making the material even with the surrounding ground's surface. Tamp the soil. Allow the plant to dry out and to repair its roots for about one week before watering. Add water once each week thereafter. It's time to water when you stick your finger a few inches into the surrounding soil and find the soil is dry.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cactus plants have a sculptural quality to them, little hinting at the amazing show they put on when they bloom. Flowers are usually large for the size of the plant, most staying open just one day. The petals have a shimmering, silky sheen. Colors range from dazzling white to everything but true blue and black, sometimes with several colors in one flower. Most cactus bloom in the spring, opening during the day. A number are pollinated by bats or moths and open at night.
Spring Blooms
Springtime sees most cactus blooming, because temperatures aren't too hot yet, the plants are actively growing after resting all winter and spring rains give them enough water for their extravagant floral display. Even if rains are sparse, cactus draw upon their stored water to flower, but not as abundantly. In Arizona's Sonoran Desert, cactus begin to bloom in March, with April the month of highest flowering. In May prickly pears (Opuntia spp.) flower; they're hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 11.
Summer Shows
Cactus that flower in summer's heat are generally substantial ones with a significant amount of stored water in their bodies. This helps them bloom reliably when daytime temperatures climb. The saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), which reaches 30 to 50 feet tall, flowers in mid-May to mid-June, when temperatures in its native Sonoran Desert regularly reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Many waxy-petaled flowers encircle branch ends and open at night for visits by bats. Saguaros, hardy in USDA zones 9a to 10b, begin to flower when they're 40 to 50 years old. Heavy-bodied barrel cacti (Ferocactus spp.) varieties bloom from spring into summer with yellow, orange or bright red flowers, depending on the species. Fishhook barrel cactus (Ferocactus wislizeni) grows to 5 feet tall in USDA zones 8 through 11.
Night Bloomers
Cactus flowers that open at night help the plant conserve water; in warm months, it's coolest at night. Peruvian apple cactus (Cereus repandus) typifies a moth-pollinated flower, with its 5-inch diameter, trumpet shape and sweet fragrance. It blooms most abundantly in spring, with fall rebloom possible. The columnar blue-green cactus reaches 20 feet tall and branches from the base. The cactus needs frost protection in USDA zone 9, and is hardy in zones 10 and 11. Night blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus) displays another large moth-pollinated white flower. It blooms in spring and summer on flattened stems that resemble long, scalloped leaves. This cactus is cultivated for its oval, red fruits, called dragonfruit, and is hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Christmas Cactus
This familiar houseplant announces its season of bloom through its common name. With its flattened, leaf-like stem, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) grows as an epiphyte in tropical forests of southeastern Brazil. Many hybrids and cultivars now exist, with red, white, pink, purple, peach and salmon-colored blooms that usually occur in winter. The plant responds to long nights with over 13 hours of darkness each night and cool night temperatures, prompting it to bloom right around Christmastime when it's grown as a temperate-climate houseplant. Hardy to USDA zones 10 through 12, Christmas cactus flowers best when it is slightly pot-bound. It is also called Thanksgiving cactus or Easter cactus, because it can be manipulated to bloom at those seasons of the year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
From a distance, your prized cactus looks as if a group of passing school children had plastered it with freshly chewed white gum. Closer inspection reveals something different, and it's not mold. Depending on the type of cactus you have, the waxy white splotching is a cochineal scale or mealybug colony. To restore your plant's good looks and preserve its health, you'll need to act.
Target Plants
Pinhead-sized cochineal scales feast on prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) and cholla cactuses (Cylindropuntia spp.) both of which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 11, depending on variety. Flat, segmented mealybugs target orchid cacti (Epiphyllum spp.), which grow as houseplants outside of USDA zones 10 through 11. Both insects hide beneath protective layers of soft, fibrous white wax. The bright-red female scales have pigmentation so strong that they're farmed as commercial dye sources in several warm-climate countries. Mealybugs are typically yellowish or gray.
Damage and Sun Deprivation
Both cochineal scales and mealybugs deprive the cactus of moisture and nutrients by draining sap with their hollow, tissue-piercing mouthparts. The biggest threat they pose comes from blocking the sun the plants need to manufacture food. An uncontrolled scale population eventually covers enough of the pads to interfere with photosynthesis by preventing sun from reaching the plants. If your cholla or prickly pear is withered and yellow, it's time for action. Mealybugs' sticky waste, or honeydew, attracts layers of sun-blocking sooty mold to orchid cacti.
Small Cochineal Problems
Chollas and prickly pears handle light cochineal infestations without much difficulty. To deal with a small number of the insects, put on heavy gloves and prune the infested pads off at the joints, disposing of them away from your garden. Avoid accidentally spreading disease accidentally by wiping your pruning tools off between cuts with a rag dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Cochineal Infestations
To eradicate a large colony cochineal scale colony, blast your cactus with a garden hose. The water's force removes the insect's waxy coverings. Then spray them with a solution of 1/2 teaspoon of non-detergent, liquid dish soap mixed in 1 gallon of water. The soap suffocates the exposed scales without leaving residue toxic to honeybees or other beneficial bugs. Dress in yard clothes when spraying, in case you're splattered with runoff tinted red from smashed scales. You won't eliminate all the pests, so repeat the spraying as the colonies rebuild.
Mealybug Management
Treating mealybugs on a spine-free orchid cactus is relatively simple. Use the hosing technique on an outdoor plant. After wrapping an indoor cactus's container in a plastic bag to prevent overwatering, set it in a sink or shower for spraying. Dabbing a small number of mealybugs with cotton swabs dipped in a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 3 parts water also works.
Preventing Problems
Always quarantine a new cactus before introducing it into your yard or home. Check it daily for a month and treat scale or mealybug infestations immediately. Check and treat an orchid cactus that spends the summer outside before bringing it in for the winter. If many people grow cactuses in your area, it may be almost impossible to prevent all infestations of cochineal scale.
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