文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Unlike other indoor plants, cactus can live for generations when properly cared for. If your indoor cactus looks wilted or shriveled up and needs reviving don't despair. Cacti are hardy plants accustomed to harsh conditions and periods of neglect or no water. Although exact the methods of reviving your cactus will vary based upon your exact type of cactus and its current condition, you can bring life back to your indoor cactus by checking for — and fixing — a few common cactus-growing mistakes.
Step 1
Inspect the roots of the cactus by gently removing it from the soil. Healthy roots look white and fleshy. If the roots are brown and mushy the plant is suffering from root rot. Cut off the damaged roots with a sharp knife.
Step 2
Repot the cactus in a slightly larger pot than before, with well-draining potting mix specifically for succulents. If you don't have succulent mix, you can combine 1 part sand with 2 parts traditional potting soil instead.
Step
Water the soil until the top 1 inch of soil feels moist but not soggy. Keep in mind that cactus needs brief dry spells in between watering. If the plant receives too little the leaves may shrivel up. Too much water may cause the plant to go limp.
Step 4
Place the cactus in a location that received bright indirect sunlight. Too much direct sunlight may burn your cactus.
Step 5
Position plants away from drafts such as from vents or windows. Stressed plants may become shocked from hot or cold drafts from vents. Although your plant may do well with some brief exposure to outside air, it may also expose the plant to insects.
Step 6
Fertilize the cactus monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer during the plant's non-blooming months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cacti gets its name because it blooms around the month of December, during the holiday season. Even though they only bloom during the holiday season, the plant needs to be taken care of throughout the year. This includes watering the the cactus periodically and keeping it in indirect light. Christmas cacti like night temperatures to be cool and day temperatures to be around 70 degrees. Christmas cacti feature flat leaves with round teeth and bright pink to purple flowers. Help out the blooming process with a bit of caster oil.
Step 1
Keep your Christmas cactus inside at room temperature and allow it to get partial sun during spring, summer and fall.
Step 2
Take the plant out of any bright light in the evening to help it come into bloom.
Step 3
Add one to two tablespoons of caster oil to your plant's soil in late September or early October. You want the caster oil to penetrate the soil and get as close to the roots as possible. This will help the cactus produce more blooms later in the year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The dragon fruit is a cactus known for its sweet, custard-like fruit and crunchy seeds. The dragon fruit name refers to both the fruit and the plant. The plant also goes by other names such as pitaya and strawberry pear. The plant blooms only at night and is pollinated by bats and moths.
USDA Hardiness Zones
Dragon fruit grow well in tropical and subtropical climates, USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, but grow outdoors in zone 9 with protection during occasional freezing weather. They do not rely on climatic conditions for ripening, so they can be grown in other areas in greenhouses or with protection from the cold. They are currently grown in tropical and subtropical areas of the United States, including South Florida, California and Hawaii.
Heat Tolerance
Dragon fruit grow well in warm weather, but are vulnerable to extreme heat and sun. Ideal temperatures for growth are between 65 degrees and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures over 100 degrees are excessive and damage the plant. Dragon fruit like full sun, but they do fine with some shade. Extreme sun combined with low humidity or high altitude can sunburn the stems and cause severe damage, especially when the plants are young. Protect the plants with 30 percent shading during the first three or four months.
Cold Tolerance
Dragon fruit quickly recover from a light frost, but sustained freezing temperatures damage the plant. The fruit are susceptible to chilling injury below 40 degrees.
Soil Preferences
Dragon fruit are moderately to highly tolerant of salt in the soil. They prefer a rich, mildly acidic to neutral soil, pH 6.1 to 7.5.
Wind and Rain
Dragon fruit need support for their heavy stems. They can be damaged by strong wind conditions that compromise the support structure. They need 25 to 50 inches of rain or irrigation each year, with irrigation twice a week during fruiting. They are prone to flower drop and root rot in excessively wet conditions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
A cactus that has been growing upright but is now leaning like the Tower of Pisa should be a concern for the gardener. The plant may be perfectly healthy, or it may be sick. Careful observations can help determine why the plant is leaning. If a problem is detected early, solutions are available that will save the cactus.
Sunlight
Even if your cactus is planted in full sun, it may lean. Plants naturally grow toward the sunlight. The barrel cactus grows southward toward the sun so much that it practically lies over on one side. If the cactus is otherwise healthy, this is not a danger. However, if a cactus planted in partial shade is leaning, it may need more sunlight. A cactus in this condition will look sickly and have weak, flimsy stems that are yellow-green. The plant should gradually be exposed to stronger sunlight to prevent sunburn.
Improper Planting
If the cactus is leaning from the ground, it may be loosely planted in the soil. Improper watering may be the reason. After watering a cactus, the soil must be allowed to completely dry out before watering again. Watering too frequently prevents the soil from hardening around the base of the cactus and causes the soil to loosen. Provided there is no root rot, either transplanting the cactus in dry soil or packing more dirt around it is a solution. Also, adding a layer of small rocks or gravel on the surface can stabilize the cactus.
Rot
Rot is caused from fungi and bacteria growing on the plant. The most common reason for rot is watering the cactus too often. The infected spot will have a watery, slimy, black appearance. Rot begins at the base of the cactus and works its way to the top. Rotting plants start to lean, then collapse and die. If rot is detected early, dig up the cactus and replant it in dry soil. Otherwise, remove the cactus from the soil, and cut the healthy top away from the diseased part. Allow the top to dry, and dust the cut surface with a fungicide before replanting it in sandy soil.
Insects
Insects eating the stem of the cactus can weaken the plant and cause it to lean. A plant infested with mealy bugs will stop growing and take on a sickly, deformed appearance. Mealy bugs should be removed with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Ants nesting at the base of the cactus eat away at the stem causing it to lean and eventually fall over. Wash away the ants with a strong, lukewarm stream of water. A cactus weakened by insects may develop fungi and rot and will die if not treated.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are adapted to drought and extreme temperatures. One of the adaptations that allows them to survive their native desert conditions is slow growth. Saguaro cacti, for example, grow only 1 inch in the first eight years of life. These massive plants are usually 35 years old before they produce flowers, and at least 75 years old before they produce side arms.
Seed
Growing cactus from seed is an exercise in patience since the seeds may take up to a year to germinate. Once the seeds begin growing, it may be at least two or three years before the plant flowers. Sow the seeds in a sandy potting mix and keep the soil at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the seed tray with plastic wrap to conserve moisture and warmth. Keep them in the starting tray until the plant stands 2 to 4 inches high, which may take up to two years.
Nursery Plants
Many nurseries and garden centers sell small cacti as houseplants. These plants grow very slowly and can remain in the same pot for two or three years. The plants grow during the spring and summer, followed by a dormant period in the fall and winter.
Care
To encourage reasonable growth, plant your cactus in a shallow pot with a coarse sand and soil mixture or a potting mix made specifically for cacti. Place the cactus outdoors in full sun during the summer, but bring it indoors in the winter. Water it every two weeks or so during hot weather. Provide water in the winter every three to four weeks. Cacti are prone to root rots and fungal diseases in damp conditions. Gradually move the plant each spring and fall to help it acclimate to its new surroundings. Moving it abruptly outdoors after a winter inside may scorch the plant.
Variety
Cacti vary in their growth rate, depending on the species. Try Christmas cactus, golden barrel or fire barrel cactus as houseplants. Other succulent plants that are often classified as a cactus, such as aloe, agave and sedums, may grow more quickly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The jumping cholla cactus (Opuntia fulgida) gets its name from spiny segments that detach so easily they seem to attack anyone near them. This plant can go beyond painful contact in a garden or on a hiking trail and become an aggressive menace. The jumping cholla grows in U.S. Department of 
Agriculture plant hardiness zones zones 8b through 11.
Jumping Cactus Basics
The jumping cholla grows 8 to 10 feet tall in a tree shape and produces fuschia-colored blossoms in spring. It's also called chain fruit cholla, boxing glove cholla, velas de coyote, cholla brincadora and hanging chain cholla. This drought-tolerant cactus attracts birds, bees and butterflies. In addition to adding an authentic rustic desert texture and color to a yard, the spiny jumping cholla provides a formidable barrier, such as to deter a potential burglar from approaching an upstairs window. Yet the protective features of the jumping cholla mean you must take care to avoid accidental injury.
The Better to Spike You With
Natural health advocate Dr. Andrew Weil describes the jumping cholla as the most dangerous cactus where he lives near Tucson, Arizona. The jumping cholla is covered with sharp spines and masses of fine, irritating barbs, called glochids. When the spines touch skin or clothing, the segment comes off the plant. If a "boxing glove" from a cholla attaches to you, its large and fine spikes get into your skin. The reverse barbs make them difficult to remove.
Spiny Projectiles and Glochids
Attempting to shake a jumping cholla segment off could cause it to hit your face, another person or a pet. Use a large comb or sticks to remove it. A strong wind may cause segments to fly and hit anyone nearby. A reflex to suck the painful glochids out of the skin can cause them to embed in the soft tissues of the mouth, tongue, throat and windpipe, and may be fatal, advises KCET.
The Spiky Takeover
Mesa, Arizona has a record of a massive growths of jumping cholla overrunning sidewalks, bus stops and cul de sacs, putting passersby, playing children and pets in danger. The city had to remove the menacing cactuses. Protect yourself if you have to handle this type of cactus. Wear reinforced work gloves, safety goggles, a hat, and heavy-duty, long-sleeve shirt and pants when you plant, transplant, take cuttings, harvest seeds or remove an invasive jumping cholla. If you need to handle it, do so with metal implements, such as barbecue tongs, whenever possible.
Agriculture plant hardiness zones zones 8b through 11.
Jumping Cactus Basics
The jumping cholla grows 8 to 10 feet tall in a tree shape and produces fuschia-colored blossoms in spring. It's also called chain fruit cholla, boxing glove cholla, velas de coyote, cholla brincadora and hanging chain cholla. This drought-tolerant cactus attracts birds, bees and butterflies. In addition to adding an authentic rustic desert texture and color to a yard, the spiny jumping cholla provides a formidable barrier, such as to deter a potential burglar from approaching an upstairs window. Yet the protective features of the jumping cholla mean you must take care to avoid accidental injury.
The Better to Spike You With
Natural health advocate Dr. Andrew Weil describes the jumping cholla as the most dangerous cactus where he lives near Tucson, Arizona. The jumping cholla is covered with sharp spines and masses of fine, irritating barbs, called glochids. When the spines touch skin or clothing, the segment comes off the plant. If a "boxing glove" from a cholla attaches to you, its large and fine spikes get into your skin. The reverse barbs make them difficult to remove.
Spiny Projectiles and Glochids
Attempting to shake a jumping cholla segment off could cause it to hit your face, another person or a pet. Use a large comb or sticks to remove it. A strong wind may cause segments to fly and hit anyone nearby. A reflex to suck the painful glochids out of the skin can cause them to embed in the soft tissues of the mouth, tongue, throat and windpipe, and may be fatal, advises KCET.
The Spiky Takeover
Mesa, Arizona has a record of a massive growths of jumping cholla overrunning sidewalks, bus stops and cul de sacs, putting passersby, playing children and pets in danger. The city had to remove the menacing cactuses. Protect yourself if you have to handle this type of cactus. Wear reinforced work gloves, safety goggles, a hat, and heavy-duty, long-sleeve shirt and pants when you plant, transplant, take cuttings, harvest seeds or remove an invasive jumping cholla. If you need to handle it, do so with metal implements, such as barbecue tongs, whenever possible.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are much more than just spine-covered desert plants. In reality, the cactus family incorporates a great variety of versatile and useful plants that are both attractive and easy to grow. In dry regions and drought-resistant gardens, cactus is ideal because it can store water on its own. Many cactus varieties display beautiful, exotic-looking flowers. With their many shapes and sizes, cacti serve well as ornamental and landscape plants without requiring much maintenance.
Drought Resistance
Cactus is one of the best choices for a drought-resistant garden in arid regions and can help gardeners and landscapers reduce water usage. Drought-resistant gardens are those designed to thrive even when rainfall is infrequent, and do not require irrigation. Cacti are succulents and can store water within their stems for use during periods of drought. The ease of growing cactus makes maintaining a landscape more feasible. Overwatering is one of the most common ways to kill a cactus. Water infrequently, especially during winter.
Ornamental Flowers
Despite their often intimidating and painful spines, cactus plants often produce some of the showiest flowers among plants. Plant flower-bearing cacti as ornamental additions both indoors or outdoors. The flowers tend to be limited in number but are often large, have numerous petals and come in various shapes. This is especially true of Epiphyllum, the orchid cactus, which grows flowers up to 8 inches in diameter that emit a strong fragrance. Soehrensia bruchii bears vivid red petals, while Trichocereus lamprochlorus explodes a large bloom in bright yellow.
Landscaping
Plant cacti in a landscape function to add texture and shape to a yard, or to fill open spots with versatility and variety. Grow lithops if you need low-growing, small specimens. Lithops are called "living stones" or "flowering stones" because they mimic rocks. Other cacti serve well as potted plants, such as crassulas. Grow a taller cactus, such as Saguarop, to fill vertical space in a landscape. Depending on the variety, cacti may be round and small, or grow extremely large, and may be shade-loving or sun-loving plants.
Food
Certain varieties of cactus can also function as edible food crops. The Mexican dish "nopales" is made of young stems of the prickly pear cactus.The texture and flavor is comparable to green beans. The prickly pear's small leaves are also used as a crispy lettuce. Texas A&M Agrilife Extension recommends preparing nopales as follows: Remove thorns with a peeler or knife if they are present. Cut them into squares and boil with chopped onion, salt and soda until tender.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Iconic among cacti, the barrel cactus rises out of every Hollywood desert to provide water for the weary and lost desert explorer. Of course, barrel cactus isn't the only or even the most frequently seen cactus in the desert, but it is an excellent cactus to use as a model for the various adaptations that cacti have used to survive in these harsh environments. Every part of the barrel cactus has been forged from a long evolution in a desert environment -- from its shape to its spines and even its metabolism.
Spines, Stem and Roots
The whole of the barrel cactus is designed to retain water. Spines serve not only as a defense mechanism against hungry desert animals, they also provide some shading to the plant. The stem is covered in a thick, waxy coating that seals the plant, protecting it from excessive evaporation. The root system of a barrel cactus is shallow, but large and net-like, enabling the cactus to catch as much water as possible during desert rains.
Shape and Tilt
The shape of the barrel cactus is a precision design, directing any dew or rain directly to the roots of the plant. Up to 25 accordion-style folds effectively decrease the amount of surface area of the plant that is exposed to the harsh conditions of the desert. Barrel cacti also grow at an angle, often tilted to the south in order to partially shade themselves and prevent sunburn.
Water Retention
The barrel cactus is one of the best water retainers among plants, thanks to a gelatinous pulp that can absorb a significant amount of water. The accordion-shaped ribs are designed to expand as water stores increase and shrink back when water is less abundant. This combination of water-retaining pulp and flexible skin allows the cactus to hold an impressive amount of water, with 5- to 6-foot barrel cacti often weighing several hundred pounds.
Crassulacean Acid Metabolism
Perhaps the most impressive adaptation of the barrel cactus is an adaptation known as Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM). Instead of normal photosynthesis, in which all necessary raw materials are taken in and used at once, CAM allows the plant to keep its stoma closed during the day to minimize water loss. The barrel cactus opens its stoma during the night to collect carbon dioxide from the environment and stores it as malic acid until photosynthesis begins in the morning. A side effect of CAM is a drop in the pH of the plant's fluids, sometimes reaching as low as 4.0. The low pH causes a bitter-tasting pulp that may help to discourage night feeding by wildlife.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Schlumbergera, commonly referred to as Christmas cactus, derives its common name from its winter bloom period. Each of the six Christmas cactus species produces a different colored bloom, with red being the most common. As with all cacti and succulents, the Christmas cactus is susceptible to disease. Fungal leaf spots, sooty mold, botrytis and basal stem rot are common diseases associated with this plant. The effects of pests are often mistaken for disease, but pests can often be eradicated. In some cases a diseased plant can be treated. In others, the plant cannot be salvaged.
Fungal Leaf Spots
Step 1
Cut away any infected leaves with a clean razor blade. Unfortunately, the infected leaves cannot be rejuvenated. Fungal leaf spots are typically circular or elliptical in shape and develop along the leaves of the plant. The spots are typically black or gray in color.
Step 2
Move the plant to a well-ventilated area.
Step 3
Water the plant at the ground level and only after the soil is allowed to dry completely. Fungal leaf spots develop from water that rests on the leaves and stems for long periods. It is for this reason that you should avoid pouring water directly over Christmas cactus, particularly if the plant is exposed to shade for long periods of time.
Sooty Mold and Botrytis
Step 4
Remove as much soil from the roots as you reasonably can without damaging the root system.
Step 5
Repot the plant with new soil specifically formulated for cactus and succulents.
Step 6
Treat the blackened areas with a systemic fungicide if treating sooty mold and with methylated spirits if treating botrytis.
Step 7
Move the plant to a well-ventilated area if treating botrytis.
Step 8
Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings.
Basal Stem Rot
Step 9
Cut away any leaves not yet infected with a clean razor blade. Unfortunately, a Christmas cactus suffering from basal stem rot cannot be rejuvenated, but healthy leaves can be repotted.
Step 10
Plant the healthy leaves in new soil specifically formulated for cacti and succulents.
Step 11
Apply copper sulfate to the healthy cuttings to guard against basal stem rot.
Pests
Step 12
Identify the type of pest attacking the plant. Mealybugs are identified by their white woolly nests and waxy appearance. The bugs are very small and a gray-white color. Spider mites are red in color and feed on the leaves of the plant. They are very hard to see without a magnifying glass. Look for spider webs with small dots. The dots are the spider mites. Whiteflies closely resemble mealybugs, but do not build nests. Whiteflies excrete honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold.
Step 13
Move the plant to an area where temperatures exceed 70 degrees F for all pest types. It may be necessary to invest in a small greenhouse if temperatures in direct sunlight do not reach at least 70 degrees. Moving the plant to a warmer environment should eliminate the spider mites.
Step 14
Spray the plant with soapy contact insecticide if treating a plant with mealybugs.
Step 15
Increase the humidity level if the spider mite infestation is extensive and they survive the warmer temperature.
Step 16
Spray whiteflies with an insecticidal spray.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactuses have a reputation for growing slowly, but among the 2,000-plus species is a wide variety of sizes and growth rates. Some never grow higher than a few inches while others may reach heights of 30 feet or higher. All cactus species grow fastest if they receive bright light and the correct amount of water and fertilizer. Making your cactus grow faster is a question of providing its ideal growing conditions during the warmer months of the year.
Step 1
Re-pot your cactus in a ceramic pot slightly larger than its current container. Use gloves to prevent the spines from piercing the skin and also to prevent damage to the cactus. Plant it in compost formulated for succulents or a mixture of equal parts of potting soil and coarse sand. Re-plant your cactus at exactly the same level that it sat in its original pot.
Step 2
Place your cactus on a bright, south-facing window sill or the sunniest spot in your home. Rotate the pot once a week to make sure growth is even. Aim to keep your cactus in an environment with temperatures ranging from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer and 45 to 55 degrees during the winter.
Step 3
Water during the warmer months of the year, when the top inch of the soil is completely dry. Provide enough water to thoroughly moisten the compost and allow all excess liquid to drain away. During the winter, water only when the soil is completely dry or when your cactus starts to shrivel. Even then, provide only enough water to slightly moisten the soil.
Step 4
Fertilize your cactus once a month during the warmer months of the year with a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulated for succulents. Do not fertilize during the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Variously called "Ruby Ball," "Red Cap Cactus," "Moon Cactus" or "Hibotan" (Gymnocalycium mihanovichii var. friedrichii "Rubra" graft), this brightly colored plant results from grafting two different species of cactus together. The top part, the scion, can't live on its own, since it lacks chlorophyll, and it is essentially a parasite on the bottom rootstock plant. To grow the plant successfully you need to consider the growing requirements of both the scion and the rootstock.
History
The red mutation of the plaid cactus (Gymnocalycium mihanovichii) originated in Japan when a nurseryman noticed two completely red seedling plants among thousands of tiny seedlings. They were immediately grafted onto rootstock, since they wouldn't have lived long on their own without chlorophyll. From these two plants have come the millions of ruby ball cactus grown around the world as a houseplant. The bottom rootstock plant is usually night-blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus) or blue myrtle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans).
Light
The plaid cactus scion can't tolerate bright sunlight, since it doesn't have the shielding that chlorophyll offers. In addition, the parent species grows as a small cactus beneath sheltering shrubs in deserts of Paraguay and prefers shaded conditions. The night-blooming cereus rootstock also prefers shade, since it is a tropical cactus that grows beneath jungle trees. Blue myrtle cactus grows in direct sunlight but tolerates shaded conditions. For the sake of the scion, even when grown on sun-tolerant rootstock the plant needs bright indirect light.
Watering and Soil
Both rootstocks are vigorous growers, but night-blooming cereus grows fastest, growing more than 40 feet on its own.This rootstock will need more watering than blue myrtle. Grow ruby ball grafts in well-draining cactus mix. Overwatering is more likely for the slower-growing more drought-tolerant blue myrtle. For both rootstocks, watch the top inch of soil. When it is dry, water the plant until water comes through the pot's drainage holes. The time interval varies, depending on the ambient temperatures, the soil mixture and how fast the plant is growing.
Temperature
The red scion is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 through 12. The night-blooming cereus rootstock grows in USDA zones 10 through 11. This combination leads to quick death of both scion and rootstock if exposed to temperatures near freezing. Blue myrtle cactus is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. If ruby ball grafts on blue myrtle encounter freezing temperatures, the scion dies and the rootstock survives.
Regrafting
Over time, the tissue between the grafted cacti becomes corky and less viable. Growth of the scion slows or halts, with the scion eventually dying. You can prolong its life by regrafting it. Using a sharp knife sterilized with alcohol, cut the top off a seedling columnar cactus and cut the scion from the old rootstock. Identify the circle of vascular tissue toward the center of the stems of the scion and new rootstock, and press the plants together so the circles partially align. Put rubber bands over the scion and the bottom of the pot the rootstock is growing in, holding them together until the tissues grow together.
Pruning
Any time you notice that the rootstock is putting out a branch of its own, immediately remove it. If allowed to develop, the rootstock will give all the food and moisture to its own branch rather than to the grafted scion, and the scion dies. If the branch is young enough, you can simply twist it off or push it off. If it is larger, use sharp clean pruning shears or a sharp clean knife to remove it. Night-blooming cereus is the shortest-lived rootstock and produces more branches.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
For a cactus that's colorful out-of-bloom as well as in-bloom, grow rainbow cactus (Echinocereus rigidissimus, Echinocereus pectinatus var. rubrispinus). The short, cylindrical stem is densely covered with comb-shaped spines in alternating bands of red, pink, white and gray. In spring, bright magenta flowers at least 2 inches wide appear. Slow-growing plants rarely branch, so rainbow cactus is grown from seed. It is suited for container growing because of its need for excellent drainage.
Light
For best spine color and stem shape, grow rainbow cactus in the sun. In areas with hot summer temperatures and intense sun, partial shade in the afternoon is acceptable. The cactus is native to the southwestern United States and northern Mexico, growing in mountainous areas between 4,000 and 6,000 feet elevation. Plants are subject to hot, dry summers and increased levels of ultraviolet light because of the higher elevation, so you can grow them where more tender plants would fail.
Cold-Hardiness
One of the cold-hardier cacti, rainbow cactus tolerates short exposures to temperatures of 10 degrees Fahrenheit if the plant is kept dry, making it hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Leo Chance, author of "Cacti and Succulents for Cold Climates," reports rainbow cactus marginally hardy in USDA zone 5, enduring temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit when protected with a thick mulch. If you grow rainbow cactus in a container, it will not be as cold hardy as if it is in the ground. For colder winter areas, keep the cactus and its soil dry in winter.
Soil
Grow rainbow cactus in an open, fast-draining soil mix. You can use purchased cactus and succulent potting mix, but mix 1 part perlite with 2 parts of the potting mix to increase the drainage. Rainbow cactus reaches 12 inches high -- very rarely 18 inches -- so the plant is best enjoyed up close in a container where its color and markings are easily visible. Give the cactus a pot just slightly bigger than the plant's diameter for good drainage and so soil can dry out quickly between watering. In USDA zones 8 through 11, plants grow outdoors in well-drained garden beds such as rock gardens and mounded soil areas or raised beds in xeriscape gardens.
Watering
During the growing season, water rainbow cactus thoroughly and then let the soil dry out before watering it again. It is best to err on the side of underwatering for rainbow cactus, since it is susceptible to root rot if soil is too moist. Test the soil with your fingers or a soil probe halfway down the pot or in the garden bed at 2 inches into the soil. If you find moistness at that level, don't water the plant. Rainbow cactus goes dormant for the winter, so water it less frequently then, withholding water if the plant is in the ground.
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成长记
plantwizard
2017年08月07日
I new added a "bunny ear cactus, angel wings, opuntia microsys" in my "garden"
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月03日
- Nombre científico o latino: Ariocarpus spp.
- Nombre común o vulgar: Ariocarpus.
- Origen: sur de Texas y México.
- Sorprendentes cactus sin espinas.
- Los Ariocarpus tienen formas y texturas similares a las rocas, y se confunden muy bien con el suelo en su habitat natural.
- No tienen espinas y la textura de su piel les permite reflejar el calor del sol, dandoles algo de aislación en verano.
- Hay 6 especies de Ariocarpus. Ejemplos: Ariocarpus retusus, de flores blancas; Ariocarpus fissuratus, de flores rosas, y Ariocarpus trigonus, de color pardo chocolate.
- Cada vez resulta mas difícil de encontrar en estado silvestre.
- Hojas: planta sin hojas.
- Los órganos aéreos son tubérculos repartidos en roseta, en torno a uno raíz subterránea voluminosa.
- Flores: diurnas, blancas, amarillas, rojas o rosas, en otoño, en el centro de los rosetas.
- Crecimiento lentísimo.
- Luz: abundante, si es posible, pleno sol.
- Temperaturas: necesitan calor estival.
- Humedad ambiental: lo más reducida posible.
- Suelo: el Ariocarpus prefiere los suelos bastante calcáreos.
- Riego: una vez, en verano y cada 15 ó 20 días al principio del otoño, que corresponde al período de crecimiento. Teme a la humedad, necesita substrato bien drenado. Mantenga en seco durante el invierno.
- Abono: no fertilice.
- Plagas: cochinillas.
- Trasplante: cada 3 ó 5 años, o una maceta hondo para que la raíz pueda desarrollarse bien.
- Multiplicación: por semillas. Las semillas necesitan una gran diferencia de temperatura entre el día y la noche para brotar. Espere tres años antes de repicar.
- Los Ariocarpus sembrados necesitan más de 10 años para florecer. Un injerto sobre Poreskiopsis logra uno floración tras 3 años, pero la planta suele deformarse.
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