文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus are relatively trouble-free succulent plants, but if your Christmas cactus leaves are red or purple instead of green, or if you notice Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges, your plant is telling you that something isn’t quite right. Read on to learn about possible causes and solutions for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves.
Why Do Christmas Cactus Leaves Turn Purple?
Oftentimes, a purplish tint to your Christmas cactus leaves is normal. That said, if it’s noticeably throughout the leaves, it may signal an issue with your plant. Below are the most common reasons for leaves becoming red or purple on Christmas cacti:
Nutritional issues – If you don’t fertilize your Christmas cactus regularly, the plant may be lacking necessary nutrients. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn with a general purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. Additionally, because Christmas cacti require more magnesium than most plants, it normally helps to provide a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in one gallon of water.
Apply the mixture once every month throughout spring and summer, but don’t use the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Crowded roots – If your Christmas cactus is rootbound, it may not be absorbing nutrients effectively. This is one possible reason for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves. Keep in mind, however, that Christmas cactus thrives with crowded roots, so don’t repot unless your plant has been in the same container for at least two or three years. If you determine that the plant is rootbound, repotting Christmas cactus is best done in spring. Move the plant to a container filled with a well-drained potting mix such as regular potting soil mixed with perlite or sand. The pot should be just one size larger. Location – Christmas cactus requires bright light during fall and winter, but too much direct light during the summer months may be the reason for Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges. Moving the plant to a more appropriate location may prevent sunburn and solve the problem. Be sure the location is away from open doors and drafty windows. Similarly, avoid hot, dry areas such as near a fireplace or heating vent.
Why Do Christmas Cactus Leaves Turn Purple?
Oftentimes, a purplish tint to your Christmas cactus leaves is normal. That said, if it’s noticeably throughout the leaves, it may signal an issue with your plant. Below are the most common reasons for leaves becoming red or purple on Christmas cacti:
Nutritional issues – If you don’t fertilize your Christmas cactus regularly, the plant may be lacking necessary nutrients. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn with a general purpose fertilizer for indoor plants. Additionally, because Christmas cacti require more magnesium than most plants, it normally helps to provide a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in one gallon of water.
Apply the mixture once every month throughout spring and summer, but don’t use the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Crowded roots – If your Christmas cactus is rootbound, it may not be absorbing nutrients effectively. This is one possible reason for reddish-purple Christmas cactus leaves. Keep in mind, however, that Christmas cactus thrives with crowded roots, so don’t repot unless your plant has been in the same container for at least two or three years. If you determine that the plant is rootbound, repotting Christmas cactus is best done in spring. Move the plant to a container filled with a well-drained potting mix such as regular potting soil mixed with perlite or sand. The pot should be just one size larger. Location – Christmas cactus requires bright light during fall and winter, but too much direct light during the summer months may be the reason for Christmas cactus leaves turning purple on edges. Moving the plant to a more appropriate location may prevent sunburn and solve the problem. Be sure the location is away from open doors and drafty windows. Similarly, avoid hot, dry areas such as near a fireplace or heating vent.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus is a familiar plant that produces masses of colorful blooms to brighten the environment in the darkest days of winter. Although Christmas cactus is relatively easy to get along with, it isn’t uncommon to notice a Christmas cactus with yellow leaves. Why do Christmas cactus leaves turn yellow? There are several possible reasons for yellow Christmas cactus leaves.
Troubleshooting a Christmas Cactus with Yellow Leaves
If you notice your Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow, consider the following possibilities:
Time to repot – If the container is packed tightly with roots, the Christmas cactus may be potbound. Move the Christmas cactus to a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with a mixture that drains well, such as two parts potting mix and one part coarse sand or perlite. Water well, then withhold fertilizer for a month after repotting a Christmas cactus. However, don’t rush to repot because this plant actually thrives in a crowded pot. As a general rule, don’t repot unless it’s been at least two or three years since the last repotting.
Improper watering – Yellow Christmas cactus leaves may be a sign that the plant has a disease known as root rot, which is caused by excessive watering or poor drainage. To check for root rot, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. Diseased roots will be brown or black, and they may have a mushy appearance or a musty odor. If the plant has rot, it may be doomed; however, you can attempt to save the plant by trimming the rotted roots and moving the plant to a clean pot with fresh potting mix. To prevent root rot, water only when top 2 to 3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or if the leaves look flat and wrinkly. Decrease watering after blooming, and provide only enough moisture to prevent the plant from wilting. Nutritional needs – Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow may be an indication that the plant is lacking necessary nutrients, especially if you don’t fertilize regularly. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn using an all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Additionally, Christmas cactus is said to have a high magnesium requirement. As such, some resources recommend a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed in one gallon of water applied once monthly throughout spring and summer.
Stagger feedings and don’t apply the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Too much direct light – Although Christmas cactus benefits from bright light during fall and winter, too much sunlight during the summer months can give the leaves a yellow, washed-out appearance. Now that you know why leaves turn yellow on Christmas cactus, this problem need not be frustrating anymore.
Troubleshooting a Christmas Cactus with Yellow Leaves
If you notice your Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow, consider the following possibilities:
Time to repot – If the container is packed tightly with roots, the Christmas cactus may be potbound. Move the Christmas cactus to a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with a mixture that drains well, such as two parts potting mix and one part coarse sand or perlite. Water well, then withhold fertilizer for a month after repotting a Christmas cactus. However, don’t rush to repot because this plant actually thrives in a crowded pot. As a general rule, don’t repot unless it’s been at least two or three years since the last repotting.
Improper watering – Yellow Christmas cactus leaves may be a sign that the plant has a disease known as root rot, which is caused by excessive watering or poor drainage. To check for root rot, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. Diseased roots will be brown or black, and they may have a mushy appearance or a musty odor. If the plant has rot, it may be doomed; however, you can attempt to save the plant by trimming the rotted roots and moving the plant to a clean pot with fresh potting mix. To prevent root rot, water only when top 2 to 3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or if the leaves look flat and wrinkly. Decrease watering after blooming, and provide only enough moisture to prevent the plant from wilting. Nutritional needs – Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow may be an indication that the plant is lacking necessary nutrients, especially if you don’t fertilize regularly. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn using an all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Additionally, Christmas cactus is said to have a high magnesium requirement. As such, some resources recommend a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed in one gallon of water applied once monthly throughout spring and summer.
Stagger feedings and don’t apply the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Too much direct light – Although Christmas cactus benefits from bright light during fall and winter, too much sunlight during the summer months can give the leaves a yellow, washed-out appearance. Now that you know why leaves turn yellow on Christmas cactus, this problem need not be frustrating anymore.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Help! My Christmas cactus has bugs! Christmas cactus is a relatively low-maintenance, pest-resistant plant, but it can fall victim to a number of harmful pests. If you notice tiny bugs in Christmas cactus, take heart. Most pests of Christmas cactus are easily eliminated. Water and fertilize as necessary, and keep in mind that healthy plants are more resistant to Christmas cactus insects. Read on to learn more about bugs in Christmas cactus.
Treating Christmas Cactus Insects
Here are some common pests of Christmas cactus and how to deal with them:
Spider Mites – These Christmas cactus pests are so tiny, they are difficult to see with the naked eye. However, is you see fine webbing or fine speckles on the leaves, you can bet your Christmas cactus is infested with spider mites. Spider mites are usually easy to resolve with regular application of insecticidal soap spray. Keep the leaves clean, as mites are attracted by dusty conditions. Mealybugs – Mealybugs are an annoying pest, common on indoor plants. Although the tiny bugs on Christmas cactus are tiny, they are easy to spot by the protective cottony masses, which are usually seen at the joints of leaves and stems, or on the undersides of leaves. The bugs, which suck the sap from the leaves, grow larger as they mature.
If left untreated, they leave a sticky substance that attracts mold. To remove mealybugs, pick them off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. You can also use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, but be careful; too much rubbing alcohol may damage the leaves. If all else fails, you may want to try a systemic insecticide formulated for indoor plants. Scale – These Christmas cactus insects can suck the sweet juices and decimate a plant in a hurry.
Scale is recognized by the waxy outer covering, usually on the undersides of leaves and stems. In its early stages, you can simply scrape the waxy substance from the leaves. Insecticidal soap is also effective. In case of large infestations, systemic insecticides may be the best solution. Fungus gnats – Tiny, flying pests, fungus gnats are usually more annoying than harmful, although large infestations can cause loss of leaves and an overall unhealthy appearance. Try insecticidal soap spray first, as this may be enough to keep fungus gnats in check. You may need to repot the plant in a clean pot filled with fresh, well-drained potting mix, then be careful not to overwater, as gnats are attracted to soggy soil.
Treating Christmas Cactus Insects
Here are some common pests of Christmas cactus and how to deal with them:
Spider Mites – These Christmas cactus pests are so tiny, they are difficult to see with the naked eye. However, is you see fine webbing or fine speckles on the leaves, you can bet your Christmas cactus is infested with spider mites. Spider mites are usually easy to resolve with regular application of insecticidal soap spray. Keep the leaves clean, as mites are attracted by dusty conditions. Mealybugs – Mealybugs are an annoying pest, common on indoor plants. Although the tiny bugs on Christmas cactus are tiny, they are easy to spot by the protective cottony masses, which are usually seen at the joints of leaves and stems, or on the undersides of leaves. The bugs, which suck the sap from the leaves, grow larger as they mature.
If left untreated, they leave a sticky substance that attracts mold. To remove mealybugs, pick them off with a toothpick or soft toothbrush. You can also use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, but be careful; too much rubbing alcohol may damage the leaves. If all else fails, you may want to try a systemic insecticide formulated for indoor plants. Scale – These Christmas cactus insects can suck the sweet juices and decimate a plant in a hurry.
Scale is recognized by the waxy outer covering, usually on the undersides of leaves and stems. In its early stages, you can simply scrape the waxy substance from the leaves. Insecticidal soap is also effective. In case of large infestations, systemic insecticides may be the best solution. Fungus gnats – Tiny, flying pests, fungus gnats are usually more annoying than harmful, although large infestations can cause loss of leaves and an overall unhealthy appearance. Try insecticidal soap spray first, as this may be enough to keep fungus gnats in check. You may need to repot the plant in a clean pot filled with fresh, well-drained potting mix, then be careful not to overwater, as gnats are attracted to soggy soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Leaves Dropping From Christmas Cactus: Fixing Leaf Drop On Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, so if you notice Christmas cactus leaves dropping off, you’re justifiably mystified and concerned about the health of your plant. It isn’t always easy to determine what causes leaves dropping from Christmas cactus, but there are a number of possibilities. So why do Christmas cacti drop their leaves, you ask? Read on to learn more.
Why Do Christmas Cacti Drop Their Leaves?
Most frequently grown as a houseplant, it has the distinct property of blooming when the days are shortest, bringing color and brightness when most other plants are dying or settling in for the winter. This is all the more reason to be concerned when your Christmas cactus is losing leaves. Preventing and fixing leaf drop on Christmas cactus may be as simple as pinpointing the problem. When otherwise healthy leaves fall from Christmas cactus plants, there are a few possible reasons, with the following being the most common:
Improper watering – When it comes to caring for Christmas cactus, overwatering is a big no-no. Although Christmas cactus requires more moisture than its desert cousins, too much water can cause the plant to rot – a common cause for leaves dropping from Christmas cactus. Although not quite so common, underwatering can also cause leaves to drop. As a rule of thumb, a Christmas cactus should be watered about once a week, or when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water until moisture trickles through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain completely before placing it on the top. Don’t allow the soil to become bone dry, but never allow it to remain soggy. Water the plant sparingly during fall and winter. Poorly-drained soil – If your Christmas cactus leaves are falling off, it may also be caused by soil that is too dense or compacted. Christmas cactus requires porous, well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or doesn’t drain well, it may benefit from repotting in a clean pot with fresh potting soil. A potting mix consisting of approximately 75 percent regular, good quality potting soil with 25 percent sand or perlite works well. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Temperature – Too much heat or cold may be to blame for Christmas cactus leaves dropping off. Christmas cactus doesn’t appreciate cold temperature. As a general rule, the plant prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) during spring and summer, and slightly cooler temperatures during fall and winter. Don’t allow temperatures to rise above 90 F. (32 C.). Cooler temperatures are beneficial while the plant is setting buds, but never below 50 F. (10 C.).
Avoid sudden temperature changes and protect the plant from drafty windows and heat sources such as fireplaces or vents. If you’ve just bought your Christmas cactus or just moved it in from its summer spot outdoors, it’s probably experiencing a big change in environment. The shock of this change may make it drop a few leaves, and there’s not much that can be done about this. Light – Christmas cactus performs best in bright, indirect sunlight and may be damaged in bright, intense light, especially during the summer. One nice thing about a Christmas cactus dropping leaves is that these plants are very easy to propagate. What we refer to as “leaves” are really segmented branches. As long as they’re healthy looking, try planting your dropped branch in a new container – chances are good that it will take root and grow into a new plant.
Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, so if you notice Christmas cactus leaves dropping off, you’re justifiably mystified and concerned about the health of your plant. It isn’t always easy to determine what causes leaves dropping from Christmas cactus, but there are a number of possibilities. So why do Christmas cacti drop their leaves, you ask? Read on to learn more.
Why Do Christmas Cacti Drop Their Leaves?
Most frequently grown as a houseplant, it has the distinct property of blooming when the days are shortest, bringing color and brightness when most other plants are dying or settling in for the winter. This is all the more reason to be concerned when your Christmas cactus is losing leaves. Preventing and fixing leaf drop on Christmas cactus may be as simple as pinpointing the problem. When otherwise healthy leaves fall from Christmas cactus plants, there are a few possible reasons, with the following being the most common:
Improper watering – When it comes to caring for Christmas cactus, overwatering is a big no-no. Although Christmas cactus requires more moisture than its desert cousins, too much water can cause the plant to rot – a common cause for leaves dropping from Christmas cactus. Although not quite so common, underwatering can also cause leaves to drop. As a rule of thumb, a Christmas cactus should be watered about once a week, or when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water until moisture trickles through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain completely before placing it on the top. Don’t allow the soil to become bone dry, but never allow it to remain soggy. Water the plant sparingly during fall and winter. Poorly-drained soil – If your Christmas cactus leaves are falling off, it may also be caused by soil that is too dense or compacted. Christmas cactus requires porous, well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or doesn’t drain well, it may benefit from repotting in a clean pot with fresh potting soil. A potting mix consisting of approximately 75 percent regular, good quality potting soil with 25 percent sand or perlite works well. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Temperature – Too much heat or cold may be to blame for Christmas cactus leaves dropping off. Christmas cactus doesn’t appreciate cold temperature. As a general rule, the plant prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) during spring and summer, and slightly cooler temperatures during fall and winter. Don’t allow temperatures to rise above 90 F. (32 C.). Cooler temperatures are beneficial while the plant is setting buds, but never below 50 F. (10 C.).
Avoid sudden temperature changes and protect the plant from drafty windows and heat sources such as fireplaces or vents. If you’ve just bought your Christmas cactus or just moved it in from its summer spot outdoors, it’s probably experiencing a big change in environment. The shock of this change may make it drop a few leaves, and there’s not much that can be done about this. Light – Christmas cactus performs best in bright, indirect sunlight and may be damaged in bright, intense light, especially during the summer. One nice thing about a Christmas cactus dropping leaves is that these plants are very easy to propagate. What we refer to as “leaves” are really segmented branches. As long as they’re healthy looking, try planting your dropped branch in a new container – chances are good that it will take root and grow into a new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
If you have been lucky, you might have received a Christmas cactus as a gift around the winter holidays. There are a couple of varieties of Schlumbergeria blooming cacti that tend to come into flower during certain holidays. These popular plants, which include Easter and Thanksgiving cacti, often come from the nursery bursting with blooms, but getting them to flower the next year can be tricky. This is where the importance of Christmas cactus feeding comes into play. Fertilizing Christmas cactus at just the right time can help ensure your plant is filled with brightly colored tubular blooms.
Christmas Cactus Fertilizer Requirements
Christmas cacti produce trailing jointed stems and wonderful flowers. These plants are epiphytes native to Brazil and make perfect houseplants. For the most part, the cacti are easy to care for and thrive in indirect, bright light, well-draining soil and average moisture. Christmas cactus feeding takes place monthly during the growing season, generally April through October. This will keep your plants in tip-top condition to form buds and eventually that fully bloomed look in time for Christmas.
If you don’t want to keep your cacti gift, you don’t necessarily need to fertilize it. Eventually, the soil will release all it has to offer and the plant will slowly starve to death. New soil and the addition of houseplant food will perk up any lethargic cactus, but timing is essential. Christmas cactus set buds in fall during cooler days with shorter daylight hours. They need 12 hours of darkness to trick the plant into pushing out buds. Fertilizing Christmas cactus during the spring and summer months allows the plant to produce healthy growth to support the flowers. The plant also stores energy to fuel the production of buds. Once autumn arrives, a punishing routine of darker periods, cooler temperatures, reduced water and no additional food, drive the plant to form brilliant hot pink to red flowers.
How to Feed a Christmas Cactus
A bloom formula houseplant fertilizer or a half strength water soluble formula, such as 20-20-20 or 20-10-20, makes an ideal fertilizer for Christmas cactus. Feed monthly during regular watering from late winter to late summer. Alternately, you can choose a time release balanced plant food or one just slightly higher in phosphorus once per month in mid to late summer to enhance flowering. On alternate weeks, fertilize monthly with one teaspoon per gallon water of Epsom salts. This routine will fulfill all the Christmas cactus fertilizer requirements, including the high magnesium needs of this epiphyte. Stop fertilizing in late summer or flower production may suffer. There is no need to fertilize in winter, as the plant is not actively growing. Follow the application rates carefully on any formula to reduce the chance of salt build up in soil. If you are concerned about heavy salts, set the plant in the shower and drench the soil to release any stored salt. Allow the pot to drain freely and the planting medium to dry out before watering anew.
General Care for Christmas Cactus
Using a fertilizer for Christmas cactus is only part of the care ritual. These plants rarely need repotting since they like a crowded environment, but every few years it is necessary to replace the soil. A mixture of half potting soil and half sand or perlite is adequate. Prevent the bottom of the pot from standing in water or root rot may occur. Pinch off the ends of stems after blooming to encourage branching. You can actually root the cuttings after allowing the edge to callus in a sand/soil mixture or pure vermiculite. Move plants outdoors in summer if you wish, but avoid harsh sunlight which can burn the stems. Watch for mealybugs or scale insects and combat with a good horticultural soap spray. Other than that, Christmas cacti are one of the easiest houseplants to grow with year-end rewards to rival those holiday presents.
Christmas Cactus Fertilizer Requirements
Christmas cacti produce trailing jointed stems and wonderful flowers. These plants are epiphytes native to Brazil and make perfect houseplants. For the most part, the cacti are easy to care for and thrive in indirect, bright light, well-draining soil and average moisture. Christmas cactus feeding takes place monthly during the growing season, generally April through October. This will keep your plants in tip-top condition to form buds and eventually that fully bloomed look in time for Christmas.
If you don’t want to keep your cacti gift, you don’t necessarily need to fertilize it. Eventually, the soil will release all it has to offer and the plant will slowly starve to death. New soil and the addition of houseplant food will perk up any lethargic cactus, but timing is essential. Christmas cactus set buds in fall during cooler days with shorter daylight hours. They need 12 hours of darkness to trick the plant into pushing out buds. Fertilizing Christmas cactus during the spring and summer months allows the plant to produce healthy growth to support the flowers. The plant also stores energy to fuel the production of buds. Once autumn arrives, a punishing routine of darker periods, cooler temperatures, reduced water and no additional food, drive the plant to form brilliant hot pink to red flowers.
How to Feed a Christmas Cactus
A bloom formula houseplant fertilizer or a half strength water soluble formula, such as 20-20-20 or 20-10-20, makes an ideal fertilizer for Christmas cactus. Feed monthly during regular watering from late winter to late summer. Alternately, you can choose a time release balanced plant food or one just slightly higher in phosphorus once per month in mid to late summer to enhance flowering. On alternate weeks, fertilize monthly with one teaspoon per gallon water of Epsom salts. This routine will fulfill all the Christmas cactus fertilizer requirements, including the high magnesium needs of this epiphyte. Stop fertilizing in late summer or flower production may suffer. There is no need to fertilize in winter, as the plant is not actively growing. Follow the application rates carefully on any formula to reduce the chance of salt build up in soil. If you are concerned about heavy salts, set the plant in the shower and drench the soil to release any stored salt. Allow the pot to drain freely and the planting medium to dry out before watering anew.
General Care for Christmas Cactus
Using a fertilizer for Christmas cactus is only part of the care ritual. These plants rarely need repotting since they like a crowded environment, but every few years it is necessary to replace the soil. A mixture of half potting soil and half sand or perlite is adequate. Prevent the bottom of the pot from standing in water or root rot may occur. Pinch off the ends of stems after blooming to encourage branching. You can actually root the cuttings after allowing the edge to callus in a sand/soil mixture or pure vermiculite. Move plants outdoors in summer if you wish, but avoid harsh sunlight which can burn the stems. Watch for mealybugs or scale insects and combat with a good horticultural soap spray. Other than that, Christmas cacti are one of the easiest houseplants to grow with year-end rewards to rival those holiday presents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
The question, “why is my Christmas cactus dropping buds,” is a common one here at Gardening Know How. Christmas cactus plants are succulents and hail from the tropical forests of Brazil. Most of these are sold straight from greenhouses where they have experienced strictly controlled lighting, moisture and temperature conditions. Just moving these lovely plants into your home can cause bud drop on Christmas cactus, but there may be other factors at work as well. Read on to prevent Christmas cactus buds falling off and preserve the incredible flower display.
Why is My Christmas Cactus Dropping Flower Buds?
Sometimes I feel like the world is conspiring against me and my plants. There are so many factors that can cause them to fall ill or fail to flower or produce fruit. In the case of Christmas cactus bud drop, the causes can range from cultural care, lighting, and even the fickleness of the plant to its situation. These plants need more water then true cactus and require a photoperiod of at least 14 hours of darkness to set buds. Other issues that may result in a Christmas cactus dropping flower buds are incorrect moisture, drafty conditions, hot or cold temperatures, and an excessive number of buds.
Outside of root rot, bud drop on Christmas cactus is the most common problem. It is often caused by a change in environment, as these are sensitive plants brought up in carefully controlled environments. Simply moving your plant to a new location in the home can induce bud drop but new plants are in for a whole set of shocks that may contribute to falling buds. New temperatures, humidity levels, lighting, and care will confuse the plant and cause it to stop production on all those glorious flowers. Mimic the care from a greenhouse as closely as possible. Water evenly but do not allow soil to get soggy. Suspend fertilizing in late summer. Keep temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees F. (15-26 C.). Anything above 90 F. (32 C.) can result in Christmas cactus bud drop. Christmas cactus reside in the deeply vegetated tropical forests of Brazil. The dense tree canopy and other vegetation make a warm, shady womb in which these epiphytic plants develop. They require a period of time without much light to force bud formation. To ensure that there are no Christmas cactus buds falling off and production is dense, provide 14 hours of darkness in September until the end of November, but bright light the rest of the year. These forced “long nights” are naturally experienced by the plant in its native region. During the day, the plant should be placed in bright light for the remaining 10 hours but avoid scorching sun from southern windows. Once buds have set and begun to open, the false lighting regimen can end.
Other Causes of Christmas Cactus Dropping Flower Buds
If photo period and care are all correctly followed, there may be other problems with the plant. Incorrect fertilizer can cause the plant to push out so many blooms that it drops some off to make room for full development of the others. This abortive behavior is common in fruit plants, as well. Keep the cactus away from drafty doors and blowing heaters. These can dry the plant out and cause ambient temperatures surrounding the plant to fluctuate too drastically. The shock of such variant temperatures may cause bud drop. Indoor conditions in winter often reflect dry air, which is a condition Christmas cactus can’t tolerate. They are native to a region with rich, humid air and require some moisture in their atmosphere. This is easy to accomplish by placing a saucer filled with pebbles and water under the plant. Evaporation will moisten the air. Simple changes like these are often the answer to bud drop and can have you on your way to a fully blooming plant just in time for the holidays.
Why is My Christmas Cactus Dropping Flower Buds?
Sometimes I feel like the world is conspiring against me and my plants. There are so many factors that can cause them to fall ill or fail to flower or produce fruit. In the case of Christmas cactus bud drop, the causes can range from cultural care, lighting, and even the fickleness of the plant to its situation. These plants need more water then true cactus and require a photoperiod of at least 14 hours of darkness to set buds. Other issues that may result in a Christmas cactus dropping flower buds are incorrect moisture, drafty conditions, hot or cold temperatures, and an excessive number of buds.
Outside of root rot, bud drop on Christmas cactus is the most common problem. It is often caused by a change in environment, as these are sensitive plants brought up in carefully controlled environments. Simply moving your plant to a new location in the home can induce bud drop but new plants are in for a whole set of shocks that may contribute to falling buds. New temperatures, humidity levels, lighting, and care will confuse the plant and cause it to stop production on all those glorious flowers. Mimic the care from a greenhouse as closely as possible. Water evenly but do not allow soil to get soggy. Suspend fertilizing in late summer. Keep temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees F. (15-26 C.). Anything above 90 F. (32 C.) can result in Christmas cactus bud drop. Christmas cactus reside in the deeply vegetated tropical forests of Brazil. The dense tree canopy and other vegetation make a warm, shady womb in which these epiphytic plants develop. They require a period of time without much light to force bud formation. To ensure that there are no Christmas cactus buds falling off and production is dense, provide 14 hours of darkness in September until the end of November, but bright light the rest of the year. These forced “long nights” are naturally experienced by the plant in its native region. During the day, the plant should be placed in bright light for the remaining 10 hours but avoid scorching sun from southern windows. Once buds have set and begun to open, the false lighting regimen can end.
Other Causes of Christmas Cactus Dropping Flower Buds
If photo period and care are all correctly followed, there may be other problems with the plant. Incorrect fertilizer can cause the plant to push out so many blooms that it drops some off to make room for full development of the others. This abortive behavior is common in fruit plants, as well. Keep the cactus away from drafty doors and blowing heaters. These can dry the plant out and cause ambient temperatures surrounding the plant to fluctuate too drastically. The shock of such variant temperatures may cause bud drop. Indoor conditions in winter often reflect dry air, which is a condition Christmas cactus can’t tolerate. They are native to a region with rich, humid air and require some moisture in their atmosphere. This is easy to accomplish by placing a saucer filled with pebbles and water under the plant. Evaporation will moisten the air. Simple changes like these are often the answer to bud drop and can have you on your way to a fully blooming plant just in time for the holidays.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
While the Christmas cactus may be known under various names (like Thanksgiving cactus or Easter cactus), the scientific name for Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera bridgessii, remains the same – while other plants may differ. This popular, winter-flowering houseplant makes a great addition to nearly any indoor setting. Christmas cactus is not only easy to care for but propagates easily too, making it an exceptional candidate for holiday gift giving. Let’s look at how to how to plant Christmas cactus and care for it.
How to Plant Christmas Cactus
The Christmas cactus is easily propagated by cutting a short Y-shaped segment from the stem tips. Make certain, however, that the cutting is taken from healthy plant foliage only. Plant the segment approximately a quarter of its length deep in slightly sandy soil. Moisten evenly and place the cutting in a well-lit area, staying away from any direct sunlight. To root cuttings for new plants, cut back shoots from the tips, cut at the second joint of each tip. The cutting should show signs of growth within a few weeks, at which time the plant can be transferred to another container, if desired, with a looser potting soil mix of compost, loam and sand.
How to Care for Christmas Cactus
Advice for Christmas cactus care tells us that it performs well under average home conditions with moderate care. The Christmas cactus will adapt to low light conditions, but the plant will produce blooms more readily if exposed to brighter light. That being said, too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, so keep the Christmas cactus in an appropriate area to avoid this. Christmas cactus moisture is important as well. The plant requires frequent and thorough watering, during its active growth in spring and summer, keeping the soil slightly moist. Allow Christmas cactus moisture levels to drop and dry out some between watering intervals, but never completely, and never let the plant sit in water, as this will lead to root and stem rot. Applying a mild houseplant fertilizer solution every other week is also acceptable.
When considering how to care for Christmas cactus, keep in mind it also prefers temperatures hovering between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) with average to high humidity levels. Placing a tray of pebbles filled with water beneath the Christmas cactus container is a good way to add more humidity to the home. Once the Christmas cactus has ceased all flowering (usually by fall), or about six to eight weeks before you want the plant to rebloom, you should allow the plant to begin its dormancy cycle by cutting back on Christmas cactus moisture and reducing both light and temperature. Simply cut back the watering and make sure the plant receives 12-14 hours of darkness and average temperatures around 50-55 F. (10-12 C.). Also, keep the Christmas cactus away from drafty areas. When you know how to care for Christmas cactus, this plant is not difficult to manage, and when given proper care and placed in a suitable location, the Christmas cactus may even surprise you with additional blooming cycles throughout the year.
How to Plant Christmas Cactus
The Christmas cactus is easily propagated by cutting a short Y-shaped segment from the stem tips. Make certain, however, that the cutting is taken from healthy plant foliage only. Plant the segment approximately a quarter of its length deep in slightly sandy soil. Moisten evenly and place the cutting in a well-lit area, staying away from any direct sunlight. To root cuttings for new plants, cut back shoots from the tips, cut at the second joint of each tip. The cutting should show signs of growth within a few weeks, at which time the plant can be transferred to another container, if desired, with a looser potting soil mix of compost, loam and sand.
How to Care for Christmas Cactus
Advice for Christmas cactus care tells us that it performs well under average home conditions with moderate care. The Christmas cactus will adapt to low light conditions, but the plant will produce blooms more readily if exposed to brighter light. That being said, too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, so keep the Christmas cactus in an appropriate area to avoid this. Christmas cactus moisture is important as well. The plant requires frequent and thorough watering, during its active growth in spring and summer, keeping the soil slightly moist. Allow Christmas cactus moisture levels to drop and dry out some between watering intervals, but never completely, and never let the plant sit in water, as this will lead to root and stem rot. Applying a mild houseplant fertilizer solution every other week is also acceptable.
When considering how to care for Christmas cactus, keep in mind it also prefers temperatures hovering between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) with average to high humidity levels. Placing a tray of pebbles filled with water beneath the Christmas cactus container is a good way to add more humidity to the home. Once the Christmas cactus has ceased all flowering (usually by fall), or about six to eight weeks before you want the plant to rebloom, you should allow the plant to begin its dormancy cycle by cutting back on Christmas cactus moisture and reducing both light and temperature. Simply cut back the watering and make sure the plant receives 12-14 hours of darkness and average temperatures around 50-55 F. (10-12 C.). Also, keep the Christmas cactus away from drafty areas. When you know how to care for Christmas cactus, this plant is not difficult to manage, and when given proper care and placed in a suitable location, the Christmas cactus may even surprise you with additional blooming cycles throughout the year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Burro’s tail cactus (Sedum morganianum) is not technically a cactus but a succulent. Although all cacti are succulents, not all succulents are cactus. Both do have similar requirements such as gritty soil, good drainage, sunshine and protection from extreme cold temperatures. Growing burro’s tail provides fascinating texture as a graceful houseplant or lush green exterior plant in many landscape situations.
Burro’s Tail Information
Burro’s tail is a heat and drought tolerant plant well suited for warm to temperate regions. The thick stems appear woven or plaited with leaves. The succulent is green to gray green or even blue green and may have a slight chalky look. Try a burro’s tail houseplant or use it on the patio or full sun garden bed.
Burro’s Tail Houseplant
The misnamed burro’s tail cactus produces long, sweeping stems that are arrayed with thick, fleshy green leaves. The succulent thrives indoors in a well-drained container where bright sunlight bathes the plant. A burro’s tail houseplant will grow equally well in a mixed succulent container or as a hanging specimen. Slowly introduce the plant to full sun once purchased to allow it to acclimate first, as light conditions vary from nursery to nursery, etc. Provide even moisture and fertilize with cactus food during the growing season. Divide the plant when it gets too large for a container and transplant it every couple of years to provide it with fresh nutrient-rich soil. Burro’s tail care is easy and makes it an excellent plant for the novice gardener.
Burro’s Tail Propagation
Burro’s tail features long stems laden with small, rounded leaves. The leaves fall off at the slightest touch and will litter the ground after transplanting or repotting. Gather the leaves and insert them partway into a moist soilless medium. Burro’s tail plants can tolerate periods of drought, but the new potential plants need to be kept lightly moist until they root and establish. Propagating burro’s tail will ensure multiple enough of this versatile plant to play with and apply to many different indoor or outdoor landscaping situations. Propagating will also make numerous starts to share with friends and family or spread around the garden. Growing Burro’s Tail Outdoors One of the most fun plants around, this succulent is simple to grow. Outdoor plants may need winter protection with a light layer of mulch to protect them from cold. Plant the burro’s tail in full sun where there is shelter from drying and damaging winds.
Growing Burro’s Tail Outdoors
One of the most fun plants around, this succulent is simple to grow. Outdoor plants may need winter protection with a light layer of mulch to protect them from cold. Plant the burro’s tail in full sun where there is shelter from drying and damaging winds.
Burro’s Tail Care and Uses
The frequent traveler or green thumb-challenged garden will find burro’s tail care ideal. Water carefully when growing burro’s tail. Keep the plant moderately and evenly moist. Excess water can cause the stems to rot and even kill the succulent. Burro’s tail works well in a hanging basket and decorates a mixed cactus and succulent container. It will flourish in rockery cracks and makes a unique ground cover. Try planting the bushy stems in a bed with mixed seasonal color or bright flowering perennials. It is a perfect choice for large leaved plants and useful as part of a xeriscape garden.
Burro’s Tail Information
Burro’s tail is a heat and drought tolerant plant well suited for warm to temperate regions. The thick stems appear woven or plaited with leaves. The succulent is green to gray green or even blue green and may have a slight chalky look. Try a burro’s tail houseplant or use it on the patio or full sun garden bed.
Burro’s Tail Houseplant
The misnamed burro’s tail cactus produces long, sweeping stems that are arrayed with thick, fleshy green leaves. The succulent thrives indoors in a well-drained container where bright sunlight bathes the plant. A burro’s tail houseplant will grow equally well in a mixed succulent container or as a hanging specimen. Slowly introduce the plant to full sun once purchased to allow it to acclimate first, as light conditions vary from nursery to nursery, etc. Provide even moisture and fertilize with cactus food during the growing season. Divide the plant when it gets too large for a container and transplant it every couple of years to provide it with fresh nutrient-rich soil. Burro’s tail care is easy and makes it an excellent plant for the novice gardener.
Burro’s Tail Propagation
Burro’s tail features long stems laden with small, rounded leaves. The leaves fall off at the slightest touch and will litter the ground after transplanting or repotting. Gather the leaves and insert them partway into a moist soilless medium. Burro’s tail plants can tolerate periods of drought, but the new potential plants need to be kept lightly moist until they root and establish. Propagating burro’s tail will ensure multiple enough of this versatile plant to play with and apply to many different indoor or outdoor landscaping situations. Propagating will also make numerous starts to share with friends and family or spread around the garden. Growing Burro’s Tail Outdoors One of the most fun plants around, this succulent is simple to grow. Outdoor plants may need winter protection with a light layer of mulch to protect them from cold. Plant the burro’s tail in full sun where there is shelter from drying and damaging winds.
Growing Burro’s Tail Outdoors
One of the most fun plants around, this succulent is simple to grow. Outdoor plants may need winter protection with a light layer of mulch to protect them from cold. Plant the burro’s tail in full sun where there is shelter from drying and damaging winds.
Burro’s Tail Care and Uses
The frequent traveler or green thumb-challenged garden will find burro’s tail care ideal. Water carefully when growing burro’s tail. Keep the plant moderately and evenly moist. Excess water can cause the stems to rot and even kill the succulent. Burro’s tail works well in a hanging basket and decorates a mixed cactus and succulent container. It will flourish in rockery cracks and makes a unique ground cover. Try planting the bushy stems in a bed with mixed seasonal color or bright flowering perennials. It is a perfect choice for large leaved plants and useful as part of a xeriscape garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Cacti are the perfect plant for the novice gardener. They are also the perfect specimen for a neglectful gardener. Bunny ears cactus plant, also called angel’s wings, has ease of care combined with an original appearance. The thick pads of this plant are adorned with fuzzy glochids, or short bristles, that resemble the fur of rabbits and grow in earlike pairs. Even a beginner can learn how to grow bunny ears cactus and enjoy the soft appearance of the plant without a lot of typical houseplant fuss.
Bunny Ears Cactus Information
Bunny ears cactus (Opuntia microdasys) originated in Mexico and is a denizen of arid, desert-like areas. Growing bunny ears cactus is as simple as mimicking its native regional conditions. So if you have a dry, low humidity home and plenty of sunny exposure, bunny ears cactus plant might be the perfect plant for you. Bunny ears forms a 2- to 3-foot tall plant with a spread of 4 to 5 feet in its native habitat. In the home, it is a slow growing plant that will likely reach 2 feet in height and have about the same width. It makes an excellent container plant with its paired 3- to 6-inch long pads, which start out a rosy red and deepen to bright green. An interesting bit of bunny ears cactus information is that it does not develop spines. Instead, it grows glochids, which are short whitish brown prickles. These still have the ability to bite, so caution is urged when handling the cactus. If you are lucky, the plant may produce 2-inch wide creamy yellow flowers in summer, followed by globular purple fruits.
How to Grow Bunny Ears Cactus
As with most succulents, you can start new bunny ears plants with a pad taken from the cactus. Use extreme caution when removing a leaf because the glochids dislodge easily and are very difficult to remove from the skin. Use thick gloves or newspaper to pick up the pad. Allow the end to callus for a few days and then insert into cactus soil. Use a good cactus mix for growing bunny ears cactus, or make your own with 40 percent potting soil, 40 percent sand and 20 percent peat moss. The pad usually roots within a few weeks. Bunny ears cactus requires a well-drained container for indoor use. An unglazed clay pot allows for evaporation of excess moisture, which is a prime killer of these plants. They can also grow outdoors but are only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11.
Bunny Ears Cactus Care
These plants are a gardeners dream for their low maintenance and interesting appearance. Water can be the death of the plant but it does need consistent moisture during the growing season. Water the plant when the top one inch of soil is dry. Allow the water to drain out of the pot and remove any excess from the saucer. During fall and winter, water lightly only every 3 to 4 weeks. Fertilize the plant every other water period during spring and summer with a diluted houseplant food or cactus formula. Occasionally, the plant will be beleaguered by pests such as mealybugs and scale insects. Combat these with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol. Bunny ears cactus should be repotted every 1 to 2 years. Wait at least a week after repotting to water the plant. Other than these steps, bunny ears cactus care is limited and the plant should reward you with its abundant pads and interesting features for years.
Bunny Ears Cactus Information
Bunny ears cactus (Opuntia microdasys) originated in Mexico and is a denizen of arid, desert-like areas. Growing bunny ears cactus is as simple as mimicking its native regional conditions. So if you have a dry, low humidity home and plenty of sunny exposure, bunny ears cactus plant might be the perfect plant for you. Bunny ears forms a 2- to 3-foot tall plant with a spread of 4 to 5 feet in its native habitat. In the home, it is a slow growing plant that will likely reach 2 feet in height and have about the same width. It makes an excellent container plant with its paired 3- to 6-inch long pads, which start out a rosy red and deepen to bright green. An interesting bit of bunny ears cactus information is that it does not develop spines. Instead, it grows glochids, which are short whitish brown prickles. These still have the ability to bite, so caution is urged when handling the cactus. If you are lucky, the plant may produce 2-inch wide creamy yellow flowers in summer, followed by globular purple fruits.
How to Grow Bunny Ears Cactus
As with most succulents, you can start new bunny ears plants with a pad taken from the cactus. Use extreme caution when removing a leaf because the glochids dislodge easily and are very difficult to remove from the skin. Use thick gloves or newspaper to pick up the pad. Allow the end to callus for a few days and then insert into cactus soil. Use a good cactus mix for growing bunny ears cactus, or make your own with 40 percent potting soil, 40 percent sand and 20 percent peat moss. The pad usually roots within a few weeks. Bunny ears cactus requires a well-drained container for indoor use. An unglazed clay pot allows for evaporation of excess moisture, which is a prime killer of these plants. They can also grow outdoors but are only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11.
Bunny Ears Cactus Care
These plants are a gardeners dream for their low maintenance and interesting appearance. Water can be the death of the plant but it does need consistent moisture during the growing season. Water the plant when the top one inch of soil is dry. Allow the water to drain out of the pot and remove any excess from the saucer. During fall and winter, water lightly only every 3 to 4 weeks. Fertilize the plant every other water period during spring and summer with a diluted houseplant food or cactus formula. Occasionally, the plant will be beleaguered by pests such as mealybugs and scale insects. Combat these with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol. Bunny ears cactus should be repotted every 1 to 2 years. Wait at least a week after repotting to water the plant. Other than these steps, bunny ears cactus care is limited and the plant should reward you with its abundant pads and interesting features for years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Barrel cactus are the classic desert denizens of lore. There are two genus types, the Echinocactus and the Ferrocactus. The Echinocactus has a fuzzy crown of fine spines, while the Ferrocactus are ferociously thorned. Each one can be grown as a houseplant or in less common situations the arid garden and are attractive additions to a succulent display. Growing barrel cactus requires a sunny location, well-drained potting soil and minimal watering.
How to Grow Barrel Cactus
Barrel cactus plants are characterized by their ribbed, cylindrical shape. The cacti come in many sizes and may be low and squat or as tall as 10 feet in height. The barrel cactus cares for lost travelers in the desert because it habitually grows tilted to the southwest. Caring for barrel cactus is quite easy and it makes a great plant for the beginning gardener. Site, water, soil and container are the key to how to grow barrel cactus.
Potted cactus should be kept in the warmest room of the home in a bright sunny location. Direct southern sunlight may burn the plant in the height of the summer, so you should move them back from the window or turn the slats on your blinds to diffuse the light. Soil for barrel cactus is mostly sand with a little topsoil, perlite and compost. Prepared cactus mixes are suitable for growing barrel cactus. Unglazed pots are best for potted cactus because they allow the evaporation of excess water. Water is a very important component to caring for barrel cactus. The plants are native to arid desert regions and usually have only rainfall to supply their moisture needs. Water your barrel cactus once per week in summer. The barrel cactus doesn’t need much water in winter when it is dormant. Water once between December and February. Adequate water in spring may cause the plant to produce a large yellow flower. Rarely the plant will then grow an edible fruit. The cactus naturally grows in low fertility areas so their nutrient needs are low. Fertilize the barrel cactus once a year in spring when it leaves dormancy and begins growing again. A low nitrogen liquid fertilizer is a good formula for the barrel cactus. The amount of fertilizer will depend on the size of your container and plant. Consult the packaging for guidance on the exact amount.
Growing Barrel Cactus from Seed
Barrel cactus can be easily grown from seed. Fill a flat with commercial cactus mix and sow the seeds on the surface of the soil. Sprinkle a thin layer of sand on top of the seeds and then the soil needs to be evenly misted. Cover the flat with a lid or plastic wrap and keep it in a warm location. The seeds readily germinate and can be transplanted when they are big enough to a larger container. Always use gloves when handling barrel cactus, which also go by the name “fish hook cactus.”
How to Grow Barrel Cactus
Barrel cactus plants are characterized by their ribbed, cylindrical shape. The cacti come in many sizes and may be low and squat or as tall as 10 feet in height. The barrel cactus cares for lost travelers in the desert because it habitually grows tilted to the southwest. Caring for barrel cactus is quite easy and it makes a great plant for the beginning gardener. Site, water, soil and container are the key to how to grow barrel cactus.
Potted cactus should be kept in the warmest room of the home in a bright sunny location. Direct southern sunlight may burn the plant in the height of the summer, so you should move them back from the window or turn the slats on your blinds to diffuse the light. Soil for barrel cactus is mostly sand with a little topsoil, perlite and compost. Prepared cactus mixes are suitable for growing barrel cactus. Unglazed pots are best for potted cactus because they allow the evaporation of excess water. Water is a very important component to caring for barrel cactus. The plants are native to arid desert regions and usually have only rainfall to supply their moisture needs. Water your barrel cactus once per week in summer. The barrel cactus doesn’t need much water in winter when it is dormant. Water once between December and February. Adequate water in spring may cause the plant to produce a large yellow flower. Rarely the plant will then grow an edible fruit. The cactus naturally grows in low fertility areas so their nutrient needs are low. Fertilize the barrel cactus once a year in spring when it leaves dormancy and begins growing again. A low nitrogen liquid fertilizer is a good formula for the barrel cactus. The amount of fertilizer will depend on the size of your container and plant. Consult the packaging for guidance on the exact amount.
Growing Barrel Cactus from Seed
Barrel cactus can be easily grown from seed. Fill a flat with commercial cactus mix and sow the seeds on the surface of the soil. Sprinkle a thin layer of sand on top of the seeds and then the soil needs to be evenly misted. Cover the flat with a lid or plastic wrap and keep it in a warm location. The seeds readily germinate and can be transplanted when they are big enough to a larger container. Always use gloves when handling barrel cactus, which also go by the name “fish hook cactus.”
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
One of the trickier diseases of cacti is pythium rot. It most commonly affects barrel cactus and can be difficult to detect before it is too late to save the cactus. Pythium rot symptoms start at the soil level and generally begin in roots. This makes it one of the hardest diseases of barrel cactus to diagnose, as most of the damage is under ground. To add insult to injury, the soil is the host of the pathogen. If soil is infected, the plant will certainly become ill. There are no effective methods of control of pythium rot but some prevention can be undertaken.
What is Pythium Rot in Barrel Cactus?
Pythium is an internal soft rot that affects cactus and many other types of plants. In barrel cactus, it occurs when conditions are moist, when the plant is too deep in soil and when the cactus sustains injury. For this reason, clean, sterile soil and proper planting methods must be observed to prevent the pathogen from invading your cactus.
Once the plant has the disease, there is no effective pythium root rot treatment. The cactus is best removed and destroyed. There are, however, preventative treatments for susceptible species. The disease stems from a soil borne fungus-like organism. Once the roots are contaminated, the disease works its way up the cambium of the cactus and eventually will infect the entire plant. Once this happens, there is nothing to be done and the plant must be discarded. There are several common species of Pythium, each with favorite plant targets. While the disease is rarely found in commercial soil, it is easy to introduce through contaminated tools, old dirty pots and from animal activities. Even the use of dirty garden gloves can pass the pathogen into fresh, sterile soil.
Pythium Rot Symptoms
Pythium disease is almost impossible to detect until it is too late. This is because it starts in soil at the plant’s roots. If you were to remove the plant, you could see that roots are mushy, discolored and rotten. Pythium rot in barrel cactus will also produce brown lesions on the roots. Once this occurs, the plant cannot uptake adequate nutrition and the whole core begins to die. The disease progresses upward, developing soft spots and decay as the whole stem turns yellow. If you watch the base of the plant for yellowing at the soil line, you might still be able to save it. Once the stem becomes squishy, however, the cactus is a lost cause. Pythium rot in barrel cactus is usually fatal.
Pythium Root Rot Treatment
Of all the diseases of barrel cactus, this is a particularly insidious variety. Because there are no adequate methods of control of pythium rot, the best defense is prevention. Avoid burying the plant in soil to the fleshy part of the stem. If the plant gets wounded at the soil line, keep water off the area and let it callus over. Preventative treatments can be applied by professionals to valuable specimens. These include mefanoxam and phosphytl-Al. Such treatments can be costly and are spotty in their effectiveness. Plants in containers should have only sterile soil and all tools need to be cleaned before using them with the cactus. With a little care and some luck, you can prevent a barrel cactus from ever getting infected and possibly losing this beautiful plant.
What is Pythium Rot in Barrel Cactus?
Pythium is an internal soft rot that affects cactus and many other types of plants. In barrel cactus, it occurs when conditions are moist, when the plant is too deep in soil and when the cactus sustains injury. For this reason, clean, sterile soil and proper planting methods must be observed to prevent the pathogen from invading your cactus.
Once the plant has the disease, there is no effective pythium root rot treatment. The cactus is best removed and destroyed. There are, however, preventative treatments for susceptible species. The disease stems from a soil borne fungus-like organism. Once the roots are contaminated, the disease works its way up the cambium of the cactus and eventually will infect the entire plant. Once this happens, there is nothing to be done and the plant must be discarded. There are several common species of Pythium, each with favorite plant targets. While the disease is rarely found in commercial soil, it is easy to introduce through contaminated tools, old dirty pots and from animal activities. Even the use of dirty garden gloves can pass the pathogen into fresh, sterile soil.
Pythium Rot Symptoms
Pythium disease is almost impossible to detect until it is too late. This is because it starts in soil at the plant’s roots. If you were to remove the plant, you could see that roots are mushy, discolored and rotten. Pythium rot in barrel cactus will also produce brown lesions on the roots. Once this occurs, the plant cannot uptake adequate nutrition and the whole core begins to die. The disease progresses upward, developing soft spots and decay as the whole stem turns yellow. If you watch the base of the plant for yellowing at the soil line, you might still be able to save it. Once the stem becomes squishy, however, the cactus is a lost cause. Pythium rot in barrel cactus is usually fatal.
Pythium Root Rot Treatment
Of all the diseases of barrel cactus, this is a particularly insidious variety. Because there are no adequate methods of control of pythium rot, the best defense is prevention. Avoid burying the plant in soil to the fleshy part of the stem. If the plant gets wounded at the soil line, keep water off the area and let it callus over. Preventative treatments can be applied by professionals to valuable specimens. These include mefanoxam and phosphytl-Al. Such treatments can be costly and are spotty in their effectiveness. Plants in containers should have only sterile soil and all tools need to be cleaned before using them with the cactus. With a little care and some luck, you can prevent a barrel cactus from ever getting infected and possibly losing this beautiful plant.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
How to Keep a Cactus Alive. If you seem to lack a green thumb, you are not alone. We've all killed a cactus or three at some point. Common cactus ailments include rot, fungus, dull complexion, wilting, and a stunted growth due to poor light, poor soil, neglect, or too much water. If your cactus is about to kick the bucket, here's how to bring it back to life without too much effort on your part.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
Step 1
Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission.
Step 2
Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus.
Step 3
Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil.
Step 4
Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5
Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus.
Step 6
Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
This world can never have enough love, happiness or cactus. Actually, the latter can bring the former and you can spread cactus around if you grow cactus from cuttings. Read on to learn how to grow cactus from cuttings.
Step 1
Choose your cactus. Any with thick, fat pads and spindly arms will grow from cuttings.
Step 2
Snip off a small to medium pad or arm at the base.
Step 3
Cut the bottom inch or two off the cut piece and leave in a shady area for three days so it dries out.
Step 4
Plant about 3 inches deep in a hole you’ve dug. Secure with stakes to prop upright if needed.
Step 5
Water daily for three days and then every other day for the rest of the week. Switch to weekly watering and watch it grow.
Step 1
Choose your cactus. Any with thick, fat pads and spindly arms will grow from cuttings.
Step 2
Snip off a small to medium pad or arm at the base.
Step 3
Cut the bottom inch or two off the cut piece and leave in a shady area for three days so it dries out.
Step 4
Plant about 3 inches deep in a hole you’ve dug. Secure with stakes to prop upright if needed.
Step 5
Water daily for three days and then every other day for the rest of the week. Switch to weekly watering and watch it grow.
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2
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
When you transplant a spiny cactus such as Easter lily cactus (Echinopsis oxygona), hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, safety is a consideration. For small cactuses, the best handling tool is a pair of kitchen tongs. Leather gloves give some protection, but spines easily penetrate cloth gloves. Because cactuses have succulent stems and roots, they need different transplanting methods from those used for leafy plants.
Digging Garden Cactus
Transplant garden cactuses during warm months rather than in winter. Wear leather gloves. First, mark the cactus' south side with a small paint spot. Dig around the plant about 6 inches out from the stem. With the shovel under the cactus, sever the bottom roots. Gently lever the cactus loose. For cylindrically shaped cactuses such as golden barrel (Echinocactus grusonii), hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11, put a loop of rope or hose around the stem for a handle. For columnar cactuses, use a strip of blanket or burlap for broader support so the stems don't break. Lift the cactus from the hole.
Moving and Transplanting Cactus
Remove the soil from the roots. Trim away damaged roots with pruning shears dipped in rubbing alcohol to sterilize them. The roots need to heal, so put the cactus on its side in the shade for a few days. Dig a hole in the plant's new location slightly larger than the existing roots. Place the cactus in the hole, putting the marked side to the south. Gently work fill dirt around the roots to replant it. Keep the soil level the same. Water the cactus thoroughly. For columnar cactuses such as Mexican fence post (Stenocereus marginatus), hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, stake the plant if it is more than 5 feet tall until it has rooted back in.
Unpotting Cactuses
When the roots come through the drainage holes or the cactus stem fills the pot, transplant it. In northern areas, transplant in the spring. For the arid Southwest, transplant in spring, summer or early fall. The new pot should be about 2 inches larger than the old one. Handle the cactus with kitchen tongs. If the roots won't slide out of the pot, lay the potted cactus on its side on a hard surface and tap the pot. Rotate it a quarter turn and tap again, repeating until the cactus is loose. After unpotting the cactus, remove the old soil. Trim the roots with pruning shears dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Repotting Container Plants
Center the cactus in the new pot, keeping it at the same soil level. Add cactus potting mix, occasionally shaking the pot to settle the soil. Don't water it for a few days so the roots can heal. Then water the pot thoroughly until water comes out the drainage holes. These directions apply to cactuses in arid regions. Tropical soft-stemmed cactuses such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, bloom best when potbound. Repot them approximately every three years right after they flower in late winter, using a mixture of 1 part perlite, 1 part potting mix and 2 parts peat moss.
Digging Garden Cactus
Transplant garden cactuses during warm months rather than in winter. Wear leather gloves. First, mark the cactus' south side with a small paint spot. Dig around the plant about 6 inches out from the stem. With the shovel under the cactus, sever the bottom roots. Gently lever the cactus loose. For cylindrically shaped cactuses such as golden barrel (Echinocactus grusonii), hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11, put a loop of rope or hose around the stem for a handle. For columnar cactuses, use a strip of blanket or burlap for broader support so the stems don't break. Lift the cactus from the hole.
Moving and Transplanting Cactus
Remove the soil from the roots. Trim away damaged roots with pruning shears dipped in rubbing alcohol to sterilize them. The roots need to heal, so put the cactus on its side in the shade for a few days. Dig a hole in the plant's new location slightly larger than the existing roots. Place the cactus in the hole, putting the marked side to the south. Gently work fill dirt around the roots to replant it. Keep the soil level the same. Water the cactus thoroughly. For columnar cactuses such as Mexican fence post (Stenocereus marginatus), hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, stake the plant if it is more than 5 feet tall until it has rooted back in.
Unpotting Cactuses
When the roots come through the drainage holes or the cactus stem fills the pot, transplant it. In northern areas, transplant in the spring. For the arid Southwest, transplant in spring, summer or early fall. The new pot should be about 2 inches larger than the old one. Handle the cactus with kitchen tongs. If the roots won't slide out of the pot, lay the potted cactus on its side on a hard surface and tap the pot. Rotate it a quarter turn and tap again, repeating until the cactus is loose. After unpotting the cactus, remove the old soil. Trim the roots with pruning shears dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Repotting Container Plants
Center the cactus in the new pot, keeping it at the same soil level. Add cactus potting mix, occasionally shaking the pot to settle the soil. Don't water it for a few days so the roots can heal. Then water the pot thoroughly until water comes out the drainage holes. These directions apply to cactuses in arid regions. Tropical soft-stemmed cactuses such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, bloom best when potbound. Repot them approximately every three years right after they flower in late winter, using a mixture of 1 part perlite, 1 part potting mix and 2 parts peat moss.
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