文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cacti growing in the wild with paddles and branches tend to drop them to the ground where they root in the rainy season. This is a form of vegetative self-propagation. Even a smashed cactus will attempt to grow roots from the pieces that make contact with the ground. Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia compressa), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, forms colonies with its paddle-like branches through self-propagation. It is possible to regrow a cactus from an arm if taken from a healthy cactus.
Timing
While you can root a cactus branch any time of year, rooting while the cactus is actively growing gives the best chance of success. Try rooting the arm in late spring or summer while nighttime temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). When temperatures fall below 60 F (16 C), the development of roots slows and the arm dries out before rooting. Branches taken from dormant cacti have the worst chance of rooting.
Drying
Once the arm is cut or falls off the cactus, let it dry at room temperature in a shady area for two to seven days. The cut end needs to callus over. This hardening of the wound prevents rotting. It also stops plant diseases from entering through the wound and infecting the cactus arm.
Rooting Mixture
The soil for rooting cactus needs to drain quickly, but hold some moisture near the forming roots. The most common mixture is half organic and half inorganic materials. Peat moss holds moisture and provides slow-release nutrients for the developing roots. Use coarse-textured sand, which does not compact down like fine-textured sand. The sand improves the drainage properties of the rooting mixture.
Potting
Handle the cactus piece with care so it does not stab your fingers. Use heave-duty gloves, tongs or a folded newspaper wrapped around the prickly piece when moving it. Avoid touching the piece with your hands if it is spiny. Press the cut end of the cactus into the soil mixture. If the branch is large, bury the bottom part of the cactus until the soil supports the branch.
Rooting
Most cacti will form roots in four to six weeks during the growing season. Keep the soil damp by misting the soil, but do not over-water the rooting branch. Water deeply, but do not let the container sit in water, which will lead to rot. Once the roots are established, then the plant pot will lift up when the arm is gently picked up. Let the soil dry between watering sessions once the roots develop.
Timing
While you can root a cactus branch any time of year, rooting while the cactus is actively growing gives the best chance of success. Try rooting the arm in late spring or summer while nighttime temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). When temperatures fall below 60 F (16 C), the development of roots slows and the arm dries out before rooting. Branches taken from dormant cacti have the worst chance of rooting.
Drying
Once the arm is cut or falls off the cactus, let it dry at room temperature in a shady area for two to seven days. The cut end needs to callus over. This hardening of the wound prevents rotting. It also stops plant diseases from entering through the wound and infecting the cactus arm.
Rooting Mixture
The soil for rooting cactus needs to drain quickly, but hold some moisture near the forming roots. The most common mixture is half organic and half inorganic materials. Peat moss holds moisture and provides slow-release nutrients for the developing roots. Use coarse-textured sand, which does not compact down like fine-textured sand. The sand improves the drainage properties of the rooting mixture.
Potting
Handle the cactus piece with care so it does not stab your fingers. Use heave-duty gloves, tongs or a folded newspaper wrapped around the prickly piece when moving it. Avoid touching the piece with your hands if it is spiny. Press the cut end of the cactus into the soil mixture. If the branch is large, bury the bottom part of the cactus until the soil supports the branch.
Rooting
Most cacti will form roots in four to six weeks during the growing season. Keep the soil damp by misting the soil, but do not over-water the rooting branch. Water deeply, but do not let the container sit in water, which will lead to rot. Once the roots are established, then the plant pot will lift up when the arm is gently picked up. Let the soil dry between watering sessions once the roots develop.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Echinocactus grusonii, better known as Golden Barrel Cactus, gets its common name from its barrel-like shape. It typically reaches 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) in diameter and up to 36 inches (90 cm) in height.
You can sow Golden Barrel Cactus seeds outdoors in warm climates, but sowing them indoors is easier and will result in a higher germination rate. Expect the seeds to germinate in one to two months.
1. Soak Golden Barrel Cactus seeds overnight in room-temperature water. Soaking seeds will help increase germination rates.
2. Fill a seed tray three-fourths of the way with slightly moist potting medium made with 1 part sand and 1 part high-quality potting soil.
3. Scatter two or three seeds per seed compartment on top of the soil. Then, cover the seeds lightly with a thin layer of sand.
4. Slip the seed tray into a plastic bag and tie it closed with a twist tie. Place the tray in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight, that is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 27 degrees Celsius).
5. Keep the soil slightly moist until germination. Spraying the soil with a mister or spray bottle, rather than watering it from the top, will help prevent the soil and seeds from becoming too wet. After the seedlings emerge, you can take off the bag and set the tray into a sunny area until they are several inches tall and large enough to transplant to a larger container.
You can sow Golden Barrel Cactus seeds outdoors in warm climates, but sowing them indoors is easier and will result in a higher germination rate. Expect the seeds to germinate in one to two months.
1. Soak Golden Barrel Cactus seeds overnight in room-temperature water. Soaking seeds will help increase germination rates.
2. Fill a seed tray three-fourths of the way with slightly moist potting medium made with 1 part sand and 1 part high-quality potting soil.
3. Scatter two or three seeds per seed compartment on top of the soil. Then, cover the seeds lightly with a thin layer of sand.
4. Slip the seed tray into a plastic bag and tie it closed with a twist tie. Place the tray in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight, that is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 27 degrees Celsius).
5. Keep the soil slightly moist until germination. Spraying the soil with a mister or spray bottle, rather than watering it from the top, will help prevent the soil and seeds from becoming too wet. After the seedlings emerge, you can take off the bag and set the tray into a sunny area until they are several inches tall and large enough to transplant to a larger container.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Sometimes it is very easy to identify the best way to propagate a cactus or succulent, and other times it is not as obvious. However before you start, the first thing to ask yourself is: What kind of plant do I have? If you don’t know the easiest way to learn is to organize the information you know about your plant into categories. How is it shaped? Is it tall and thin, short and round, or does it have many little leaves? How does it grow? Does it grow all by itself, are there many branches, or are there similar tiny plants that poke up out of the soil near it? Does it flower?
Questions like these are the first ones to ask your self when considering propagation. The next thing to think about is how to propagate your cactus or succulent.
Seeds
Most cacti can be propagated by seed; however due to the slow growth of some species, sometimes other methods are more practical. Cacti with solitary growth habits are usually propagated by seed. Several species grow in this manner including:
Notocactus spp. (now included in the genus Parodia)
Neoporteria spp. (now included in the genus Eriosyce).
Stem Cuttings
Propagation by stem cuttings is easy and practical. Many cacti and succulents can be propagated by stem cuttings. In general, if the plant has an elongated stem region that is actively growing, propagation by stem cuttings should be a successful route. Some recommendations are:
Prickly Pears and Chollas: Opuntia
Columnar Cacti: Cereus, Trichocereus (now included in the genus Echinopsis)
Pincushion and Globular Cacti: Echinopsis, Mammillaria
Euphorbia
Stapeliads
Bryophyllum
Kalanchoe
Graptopetalum.
Leaf Cuttings
Most succulents are usually propagated by leaf cuttings. Genera typically propagated by leaf cuttings include but are not limited to:
Gasteria
Haworthia, Sansevieria
Crassulaceae family (Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.).
Grafting
Grafting requires a hardy rootstock which is compatible with the desired propagation candidate. This compatibility is very important. Without it, success in grafting in unlikely. For cacti and succulents the following rules and some successful grafts have been reported and are shown below:
Rootstock: Hylocereus trigonus
Compatible scions: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra
Rootstock: Hylocereus undatus
Compatible scions: Epiphytic cacti, like Christmas Cacti, most cylindrical and globular cacti
Rootstock: Cereus repandus
Compatible scions: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’
Rootstock:Echinopsis spachiana
Compatible scions: Cereus, Espotoa, Echinocactus, Lobivia (now included in the genus Echinopsis), Melocactus.
Bulbils, Tubers, Plantlets, and Offsets
Many succulents asexually propagate been means of underground lateral shoots. These shoots give rise to offsets or plantlets which can be severed in the spring or summer from the parent lateral shoot to produce a self-sustaining new plant. Aloe spp. and some Agave spp. form plantlets or bulbils on their flowing stalks. These plantlets and bulbils can be removed and planted as well. Kalanchoe spp. produce small plantlets on the scalloped edges of their leaves. These plantlets can also be potted in warm conditions to produce self-sustaining plants.
Bulbils and Plantlets: Kalanchoe, Aloe, Agave murpheyi, Agave vilmoriniana, Agave fourcroydes
Offsets: Echinopsis, Mammillaria, Agave, Aloe, Haworthia, Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum
Tubers: Ceropegia.
Questions like these are the first ones to ask your self when considering propagation. The next thing to think about is how to propagate your cactus or succulent.
Seeds
Most cacti can be propagated by seed; however due to the slow growth of some species, sometimes other methods are more practical. Cacti with solitary growth habits are usually propagated by seed. Several species grow in this manner including:
Notocactus spp. (now included in the genus Parodia)
Neoporteria spp. (now included in the genus Eriosyce).
Stem Cuttings
Propagation by stem cuttings is easy and practical. Many cacti and succulents can be propagated by stem cuttings. In general, if the plant has an elongated stem region that is actively growing, propagation by stem cuttings should be a successful route. Some recommendations are:
Prickly Pears and Chollas: Opuntia
Columnar Cacti: Cereus, Trichocereus (now included in the genus Echinopsis)
Pincushion and Globular Cacti: Echinopsis, Mammillaria
Euphorbia
Stapeliads
Bryophyllum
Kalanchoe
Graptopetalum.
Leaf Cuttings
Most succulents are usually propagated by leaf cuttings. Genera typically propagated by leaf cuttings include but are not limited to:
Gasteria
Haworthia, Sansevieria
Crassulaceae family (Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.).
Grafting
Grafting requires a hardy rootstock which is compatible with the desired propagation candidate. This compatibility is very important. Without it, success in grafting in unlikely. For cacti and succulents the following rules and some successful grafts have been reported and are shown below:
Rootstock: Hylocereus trigonus
Compatible scions: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra
Rootstock: Hylocereus undatus
Compatible scions: Epiphytic cacti, like Christmas Cacti, most cylindrical and globular cacti
Rootstock: Cereus repandus
Compatible scions: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’
Rootstock:Echinopsis spachiana
Compatible scions: Cereus, Espotoa, Echinocactus, Lobivia (now included in the genus Echinopsis), Melocactus.
Bulbils, Tubers, Plantlets, and Offsets
Many succulents asexually propagate been means of underground lateral shoots. These shoots give rise to offsets or plantlets which can be severed in the spring or summer from the parent lateral shoot to produce a self-sustaining new plant. Aloe spp. and some Agave spp. form plantlets or bulbils on their flowing stalks. These plantlets and bulbils can be removed and planted as well. Kalanchoe spp. produce small plantlets on the scalloped edges of their leaves. These plantlets can also be potted in warm conditions to produce self-sustaining plants.
Bulbils and Plantlets: Kalanchoe, Aloe, Agave murpheyi, Agave vilmoriniana, Agave fourcroydes
Offsets: Echinopsis, Mammillaria, Agave, Aloe, Haworthia, Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum
Tubers: Ceropegia.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents feature plump, fleshy leaves and stems that retain moisture, similar to a cactus. Many succulent varieties also produce attractive flowers in season that can brighten up a small dish garden. Most succulent plants thrive in pots, because they require minimal watering or maintenance and they also grow slowly so rarely require repotting.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cactus delights the eye with its other-worldly appearance and striking flowers, but it also requires repotting from time to time. This task is often avoided by home gardeners who are generally either unsure how to do it or fear they’ll kill the cactus. But the reality is that repotting cacti isn’t all that difficult.
Here are some easy steps to repot a cactus:
Step 1: Find Right Size Pot for Cactus
When it’s time to repot a cactus, look for a container that’s about 2 inches (5 cm) larger than the one the cactus is currently in. If the container is too large, the soil will stay wet longer than desirable for a cactus, which likes heat and dry elements that are normal in the desert where it grows wild.
Step 2: Assemble Materials for Repotting Cactus
Have all the necessary materials on hand: cactus soil, larger pot, protective gloves or tongs to handle the cactus, and a bamboo skewer or long, slender stick. It’s also best to have newspaper or protective covering on the bench or area where the repotting takes place.
A word about cactus soil is necessary. Most garden centers carry cactus soil, which is a mixture of peat, perlite, horticultural vermiculite and added nutrients. For a cactus garden, it’s important that the right soil be used. A small bag costs about $4 to $5 and goes a long way.
Step 3: Spread Small Amount of Soil in New Container
Place a small amount of cactus soil in the bottom of the new container.
Step 4: Remove Cactus From Old Container
Wearing gloves, and possibly a long-sleeved shirt if the cactus is large, gently lift the cactus from the old container. Tongs can also be used if the cactus has long and very sharp spines that may go through the gloves. For very small cacti, newspaper can be used.
Examine the bottom of the cactus to see if there are mealy bugs. Also check to see if it’s root-bound and, if so, gently break up some of the roots. This will permit them to spread and grow in the new pot.
Step 5: Place Cactus in New Container
Carefully set the cactus in the new container. If the bottom of the cactus is not level with the the rim of the pot, remove it and add a little more soil. Keep doing this until the cactus is level with the rim.
Step 6: Fill in Soil Around Cactus
Make sure to fill in soil all around the cactus. Use the bamboo skewer or a long, slender stick to check around the sides of the pot. Shake or jiggle the pot to fill in the soil in areas where there may be a pocket. A gentle tap on the counter or surface will also help soil settle in the voids between the roots.
Step 7: Wait a Day Before Watering
Give the cactus a day after repotting before adding any water. Use care when watering, since overwatering is one of the biggest problems with cacti. Let soil dry out completely between watering and occasionally give the cactus an overall spray of water.
Here are some easy steps to repot a cactus:
Step 1: Find Right Size Pot for Cactus
When it’s time to repot a cactus, look for a container that’s about 2 inches (5 cm) larger than the one the cactus is currently in. If the container is too large, the soil will stay wet longer than desirable for a cactus, which likes heat and dry elements that are normal in the desert where it grows wild.
Step 2: Assemble Materials for Repotting Cactus
Have all the necessary materials on hand: cactus soil, larger pot, protective gloves or tongs to handle the cactus, and a bamboo skewer or long, slender stick. It’s also best to have newspaper or protective covering on the bench or area where the repotting takes place.
A word about cactus soil is necessary. Most garden centers carry cactus soil, which is a mixture of peat, perlite, horticultural vermiculite and added nutrients. For a cactus garden, it’s important that the right soil be used. A small bag costs about $4 to $5 and goes a long way.
Step 3: Spread Small Amount of Soil in New Container
Place a small amount of cactus soil in the bottom of the new container.
Step 4: Remove Cactus From Old Container
Wearing gloves, and possibly a long-sleeved shirt if the cactus is large, gently lift the cactus from the old container. Tongs can also be used if the cactus has long and very sharp spines that may go through the gloves. For very small cacti, newspaper can be used.
Examine the bottom of the cactus to see if there are mealy bugs. Also check to see if it’s root-bound and, if so, gently break up some of the roots. This will permit them to spread and grow in the new pot.
Step 5: Place Cactus in New Container
Carefully set the cactus in the new container. If the bottom of the cactus is not level with the the rim of the pot, remove it and add a little more soil. Keep doing this until the cactus is level with the rim.
Step 6: Fill in Soil Around Cactus
Make sure to fill in soil all around the cactus. Use the bamboo skewer or a long, slender stick to check around the sides of the pot. Shake or jiggle the pot to fill in the soil in areas where there may be a pocket. A gentle tap on the counter or surface will also help soil settle in the voids between the roots.
Step 7: Wait a Day Before Watering
Give the cactus a day after repotting before adding any water. Use care when watering, since overwatering is one of the biggest problems with cacti. Let soil dry out completely between watering and occasionally give the cactus an overall spray of water.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti are low maintenance plants for the home with a ton of character and a vast array of form. They are relatively maintenance free except for infrequent watering and annual food. Many gardeners ask “should I repot my cactus?” They don’t need repotting often, but once in a while for soil replenishment and when the plant needs a larger pot. When to repot a cactus plant depends upon the plant and its condition. Read on for tips on how to repot a cactus and do it without spending the rest of the day picking spines out of your hands.
Tools for Repotting
Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection.
The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts.
One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot
You will know when to repot a cactus if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting.
The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot
Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus?”, it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot.
Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window.
Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
Tools for Repotting
Cacti are succulents and tend to favor dry, hot conditions. They store moisture in their pads and use their spines as both defense and to provide some protection from burning hot sun rays. Cactus grown in the home can almost be ignored but they do require light, warmth, water and repotting to refresh the soil. Cactus repotting requires a special soil mix, well-draining container and some tactical protection.
The first issue to deal with is the handling of a spiny plant. There are a couple of ways to go about this. You can wrap the plant in several layers of newspaper and secure lightly with tape or twine. You can also use a pair of leather gloves or, for smaller plants, just grab your oven mitts.
One of the safest repotting tips is to use kitchen tongs. You will also need a cactus mix which you may purchase or make. A good combination is equal parts sand or bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Your container must have excellent drainage holes and preferably be unglazed so the clay can direct away and evaporate any excess moisture.
When to Repot
You will know when to repot a cactus if you see roots coming out the bottom of the container. This indicates it is overly root bound. Most cacti find small spaces very cozy and can stay in their container for years. The sight of roots will let you know it has expanded too much and will need repotting.
The next size up container will be appropriate since they like it snug. A general rule of thumb is to repot every 2 to 4 years. If you fertilize annually, the latter is more appropriate but if you don’t fertilize, repot in two years to replenish soil fertility. The best time is during active growth in January or February.
How to Repot
Once you have answered the question, “should I repot my cactus?”, it is time to gather your tools and trade in the old soil or container. Not every cactus needs a new container, but fresh soil is a good idea. Only pot bound plants need a larger pot.
Wrap, glove or tong the plant gently out of its pot. They usually come out readily if the soil is dry but you may have to run a trowel around the edges to loosen the soil. Shake off the old soil and plant the cactus at the same depth it was growing in the old soil. Fill in around the roots with your medium and place it in a sunny southeast or east window.
Among important repotting cactus tips is to not water the plant yet, as it is adjusting to being handled and new soil conditions. After a few weeks, you can water the plant and allow it to dry out before watering again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Although a cactus plant prefers slightly cramped growing conditions in a container, there may come a time when it outgrows its pot and needs a larger one. When the cactus roots reach the edge of the container, you must repot a large cactus. With attention to detail and by following expert recommendations, you can give your cactus fresh soil in a larger container so it can continue to thrive.
Instructions
Choose a container that is only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) larger than the present container to ensure that you do not place the cactus in a pot that is too large. A cactus in a container too large may begin decaying because the soil will stay too wet. Fill the container approximately halfway with cactus potting soil.
Wear the leather gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands and arms from the cactus. Loosen the cactus from the container by inserting the trowel gently around the perimeter of the container. Wrap the cactus with newspaper so you can grasp it and work
Transfer the cactus from the old container to the new container. Set the cactus into the container so the plant will be at the same depth as it was growing in the old container. Fill additional soil in around the roots of the cactus and firm the soil down gently to finish repotting it.
Place the repotted cactus into its regular growing location with direct sunlight. Do not water the cactus for two to three days after repotting.
Tips and Warnings
Repot a cactus in the spring before the plant begins growing actively again.
Install a stake in the new container at the time you repot if your large cactus requires support. Choose a stake that is as tall as the cactus and place it into the container as you place the cactus into the container. Fill soil around both the cactus roots and the stake then tie the stake to the cactus with stretchy plant ties.
Instructions
Choose a container that is only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) larger than the present container to ensure that you do not place the cactus in a pot that is too large. A cactus in a container too large may begin decaying because the soil will stay too wet. Fill the container approximately halfway with cactus potting soil.
Wear the leather gloves and long sleeves to protect your hands and arms from the cactus. Loosen the cactus from the container by inserting the trowel gently around the perimeter of the container. Wrap the cactus with newspaper so you can grasp it and work
Transfer the cactus from the old container to the new container. Set the cactus into the container so the plant will be at the same depth as it was growing in the old container. Fill additional soil in around the roots of the cactus and firm the soil down gently to finish repotting it.
Place the repotted cactus into its regular growing location with direct sunlight. Do not water the cactus for two to three days after repotting.
Tips and Warnings
Repot a cactus in the spring before the plant begins growing actively again.
Install a stake in the new container at the time you repot if your large cactus requires support. Choose a stake that is as tall as the cactus and place it into the container as you place the cactus into the container. Fill soil around both the cactus roots and the stake then tie the stake to the cactus with stretchy plant ties.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Christmas Cactus is a jungle cactus that prefers humidity and moisture, unlike its standard cactus cousins, which require a warm, arid climate. A winter-bloomer, Christmas Cactus displays flowers in shades of red, lavender, rose, purple, white, peach, cream and orange, depending on the variety. These prolific growers eventually need to be repotted. Repotting Christmas Cactus isn’t complicated, but the key is knowing when and how to repot a Christmas Cactus.
When to Repot
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas Cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming.
Don’t rush to repot Christmas Cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant.
Repotting Christmas Cactus every 3 to 4 years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot
Here are some Christmas Cactus potting tips that will help you find success:
Take your time because repotting a Christmas Cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand.
Repot Christmas Cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas Cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air.
Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water.
Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately.
Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care routine.
When to Repot
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas Cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming.
Don’t rush to repot Christmas Cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant.
Repotting Christmas Cactus every 3 to 4 years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot
Here are some Christmas Cactus potting tips that will help you find success:
Take your time because repotting a Christmas Cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand.
Repot Christmas Cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas Cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air.
Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water.
Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately.
Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care routine.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti are easy-care houseplants because their feeding and watering needs are extremely low. You can largely ignore them and they still thrive. But if you’re a chronic overwaterer, cacti may be a source of endless frustration. When your cactus has clearly been overwatered, don’t fear — there is a chance you can save it. If there is no fungal or bacterial rot present, a change of neighborhoods may be enough to get your cactus back on track.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti require little water and few nutrients to grow and thrive. A standard potting soil retains too much moisture, which can cause the cactus roots to rot. Most potting soils also come with nutrients added in the form of compost or fertilizers, which can negatively impact the cactus.
Making your own soil mixture ensures the plants receive the proper drainage necessary for healthy growth. The type of cactus soil needed depends on whether you are potting a tropical Holiday Cactus, which tolerates more moisture, or a desert cactus that needs a drier soil.
Combine equal parts peat moss and ground fir bark in a bucket to create a base potting mixture for tropical or desert cacti. Alternatively, use a premade potting mixture that doesn’t contain soil. Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep cacti healthy and thriving.
Mix two parts of the potting base mix with one part coarse builder’s sand for a tropical or Holiday Cactus, which requires more moisture and tolerates less drainage than desert cacti. Substitute perlite, pumice or vermiculite, if desired.
Use equal parts of the base potting mix and coarse sand, perlite, pumice or vermiculite for a desert cactus, as they cannot tolerate too much moisture retention and grow better in a sandy, well-drained mixture.
Mix the ingredients together until they are completely combined. Break up any large clods that form so the potting mix is evenly blended.
Water the mixture in the bucket prior to filling the pots and planting the cactus. Allow the peat or coir in the mix to absorb the water for at least one hour. Use for potting when the mixture feels moist but no water droplets form if you squeeze a handful.
Tip
Cactus plants have low nutrient requirements, so there is no need to add fertilizers to the potting mix. Instead, fertilize the plants sparingly with a soluble cactus fertilizer every three to four months.
Warning
Over-watering can quickly kill a cactus. Place the soil only in pots that contain drainage holes to allow excess moisture to drip from the pot. Water most cactus varieties only when the soil has almost completely dried.
Making your own soil mixture ensures the plants receive the proper drainage necessary for healthy growth. The type of cactus soil needed depends on whether you are potting a tropical Holiday Cactus, which tolerates more moisture, or a desert cactus that needs a drier soil.
Combine equal parts peat moss and ground fir bark in a bucket to create a base potting mixture for tropical or desert cacti. Alternatively, use a premade potting mixture that doesn’t contain soil. Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep cacti healthy and thriving.
Mix two parts of the potting base mix with one part coarse builder’s sand for a tropical or Holiday Cactus, which requires more moisture and tolerates less drainage than desert cacti. Substitute perlite, pumice or vermiculite, if desired.
Use equal parts of the base potting mix and coarse sand, perlite, pumice or vermiculite for a desert cactus, as they cannot tolerate too much moisture retention and grow better in a sandy, well-drained mixture.
Mix the ingredients together until they are completely combined. Break up any large clods that form so the potting mix is evenly blended.
Water the mixture in the bucket prior to filling the pots and planting the cactus. Allow the peat or coir in the mix to absorb the water for at least one hour. Use for potting when the mixture feels moist but no water droplets form if you squeeze a handful.
Tip
Cactus plants have low nutrient requirements, so there is no need to add fertilizers to the potting mix. Instead, fertilize the plants sparingly with a soluble cactus fertilizer every three to four months.
Warning
Over-watering can quickly kill a cactus. Place the soil only in pots that contain drainage holes to allow excess moisture to drip from the pot. Water most cactus varieties only when the soil has almost completely dried.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Disocactus flagelliformis commonly known as Rat Tail Cactus, is a cactus with a thick hanging stems, each with 8 – 13 ribs, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) long and up to 0.75 inches (1.9 cm) in diameter. The needle groups are tiny, almost fuzzy-looking and have 15 – 20 fine reddish-yellow spines each. Flowers are a beautiful magenta color, curved, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) long and up to 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) in diameter.
Disocactus flagelliformis is epiphytic in the wild (it grows in trees). It is perfectly adapted to hanging baskets. It is the most cultivated species in the genus. Due to its ease of cultivation and attractive floral displays, Disocactus flagelliformis is often grown as an ornamental pot plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: Disocactus flagelliformis requires full sunlight. Hang the pot or basket in the sunniest window available. If possible, hang the plant outdoors in summer to give it fresh air and extra light.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: During the active growth period normal room temperatures are suitable. In winter these plants should be rested at 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C), if possible, but they tolerate temperatures up to 59 to 61 °F (15 to 16 °C).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully, keeping the potting mixture thoroughly moist, but do not let plants stand in water. During the winter rest period just keep the mixture from drying out.
Fertilizing: Use half-strength liquid fertilizer sprayed on to the stems of the plant once every two weeks during the active growth period only.
General Care
Disocactus flagelliformis is easy to cultivate and relatively fast growing cactus. Their trailing stems make these cacti ideal plants for a hanging basket. Line the basket with sphagnum moss before filling it with potting mixture and make sure it is hung where the prickly stems will not pose a treat to the unwary. If Disocactus flagelliformis is grown in a pot, hang the pot up or attache it to a high shelf. If it is left free-standing, it can soon be overbalanced by the lengthening stems.
Propagation
To propagate, use either 6 inches (15 cm) tip or 6 inches (15 cm) segment of any part of the stem. Allow each cutting or segment to dry for three days; then insert it about 0.8 inch (2 cm) deep in a small pan or pot of the recommended potting mixture for mature plants; be sure that any stem segment is planted with the bottom end down. If this shallowly inserted cutting tends to fall over, it can be supported by being gently tied to a small wooden stick. Cultivation needs of cuttings are the same as those for mature Disocactus flagelliformis and rooting will occur within a few weeks.
Disocactus flagelliformis is epiphytic in the wild (it grows in trees). It is perfectly adapted to hanging baskets. It is the most cultivated species in the genus. Due to its ease of cultivation and attractive floral displays, Disocactus flagelliformis is often grown as an ornamental pot plant.
Growing Conditions
Light: Disocactus flagelliformis requires full sunlight. Hang the pot or basket in the sunniest window available. If possible, hang the plant outdoors in summer to give it fresh air and extra light.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: During the active growth period normal room temperatures are suitable. In winter these plants should be rested at 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C), if possible, but they tolerate temperatures up to 59 to 61 °F (15 to 16 °C).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully, keeping the potting mixture thoroughly moist, but do not let plants stand in water. During the winter rest period just keep the mixture from drying out.
Fertilizing: Use half-strength liquid fertilizer sprayed on to the stems of the plant once every two weeks during the active growth period only.
General Care
Disocactus flagelliformis is easy to cultivate and relatively fast growing cactus. Their trailing stems make these cacti ideal plants for a hanging basket. Line the basket with sphagnum moss before filling it with potting mixture and make sure it is hung where the prickly stems will not pose a treat to the unwary. If Disocactus flagelliformis is grown in a pot, hang the pot up or attache it to a high shelf. If it is left free-standing, it can soon be overbalanced by the lengthening stems.
Propagation
To propagate, use either 6 inches (15 cm) tip or 6 inches (15 cm) segment of any part of the stem. Allow each cutting or segment to dry for three days; then insert it about 0.8 inch (2 cm) deep in a small pan or pot of the recommended potting mixture for mature plants; be sure that any stem segment is planted with the bottom end down. If this shallowly inserted cutting tends to fall over, it can be supported by being gently tied to a small wooden stick. Cultivation needs of cuttings are the same as those for mature Disocactus flagelliformis and rooting will occur within a few weeks.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月22日
Los Lithops, son cactus o suculentas que por su forma similar a las piedras del desierto se las llama popularmente piedras vivientes o cactus piedra. Al género Lithops pertenecen unas 40 especies de pequeñas plantas de la familia de las Aizoáceas todas nativas del sur de África, Sudáfrica, Namibia y Botswana.
El lithops consta de una larga raíz pivotante, un tallo subterráneo corto y dos hojas que forman la parte aérea de la planta. Su crecimiento es muy lento y son ideales para su cultivo en interio. No hace falta cambiarlas de maceta en 10 o 20 años.
Su altura es de unos 5 cm y tiene un diámetro de entre 1 y 3 cm. Por entre la ranura existente entre las dos hojas aparece en otoño la flor (amarilla o blanca) que tiene cierta similitud con la margarita y un diámetro de entre 2 y 4 cm.
Es una planta muy fácil de cultivar y no requiere apenas cuidado alguno. Necesitan una exposición muy luminosa pero es mejor que no reciban el sol directo, sobre todo en las horas centrales del día. También son muy sensibles al frío. El suelo ideal para su cultivo será el formado por una mezcla de sustrato para cactus, arena fina y perlita. Sólo debe regarse cuando el suelo esté totalmente seco y cada 15 días en primavera, tras la renovación de las hojas y en otoño antes de la floración.
El riego debe suspenderse por completo en el periodo de latencia (verano), durante el invierno y mientras se produce la renovación de las hojas. En verano y sólo una vez se le puede fertilizar con un abono rico en fósforo que fomentará la floración. Cada 2-3 años hay que transplantalo y la mejor época será cuando las viejas hojas se hayan marchitado y estén apareciendo las nuevas. Su principal problema suele ser la pudrición de las raíces y el ataque de roedores y áfidos cuando se cultiva en exterior.
El lithops consta de una larga raíz pivotante, un tallo subterráneo corto y dos hojas que forman la parte aérea de la planta. Su crecimiento es muy lento y son ideales para su cultivo en interio. No hace falta cambiarlas de maceta en 10 o 20 años.
Su altura es de unos 5 cm y tiene un diámetro de entre 1 y 3 cm. Por entre la ranura existente entre las dos hojas aparece en otoño la flor (amarilla o blanca) que tiene cierta similitud con la margarita y un diámetro de entre 2 y 4 cm.
Es una planta muy fácil de cultivar y no requiere apenas cuidado alguno. Necesitan una exposición muy luminosa pero es mejor que no reciban el sol directo, sobre todo en las horas centrales del día. También son muy sensibles al frío. El suelo ideal para su cultivo será el formado por una mezcla de sustrato para cactus, arena fina y perlita. Sólo debe regarse cuando el suelo esté totalmente seco y cada 15 días en primavera, tras la renovación de las hojas y en otoño antes de la floración.
El riego debe suspenderse por completo en el periodo de latencia (verano), durante el invierno y mientras se produce la renovación de las hojas. En verano y sólo una vez se le puede fertilizar con un abono rico en fósforo que fomentará la floración. Cada 2-3 años hay que transplantalo y la mejor época será cuando las viejas hojas se hayan marchitado y estén apareciendo las nuevas. Su principal problema suele ser la pudrición de las raíces y el ataque de roedores y áfidos cuando se cultiva en exterior.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), and Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) do not have the typical requirements of most succulents. Although true cacti, they are epiphytic in nature, growing in the branches of trees in their native tropical forest rain habitats. The need for high humidity, bright but filtered light, and soil kept relatively moist most of the year sets these plants apart from the majority of cacti and succulents.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
OK, so you just returned from the store with your first cactus plant, or perhaps you bought one of those funny looking little plants with a tag sticking in the pot that says “Assorted Succulents.” You might be asking yourself, “how do I take care of this thing?”
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
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Miss Chen
2017年09月21日
En la nueva forma de entender la jardinería en los lugares cálidos donde la sequía es constante los cactus y las suculentas toman un gran protagonismo. Son plantas que se adaptan muy bien al calor y la sequía y que no necesitan consumir apenas agua para sobrevivir y crecer. Vamos a ponter el punto de mira en el cultivo y floración de cactus y suculentas para que recordemos que estas plantas también pueden cumplir un papel ornamental en nuestro jardín.
Aunque mucha de la gente que tiene cactus en casa es difícil que los vean florecer no es imposible. Por supuesto pues son plantas que florecen como las demás aunque lo hacen de forma escasa y casi reservada. Muchos cactus sólo nos ofrecerán una flor y para ello hay que cumplir a rajatabla con sus necesidades.
Muchísimos cactus mueren por exceso de agua. Es un punto que hay que tener en cuenta. Son plantas que necesitan un sustrato especial que facilite el drenado e incluso les va muy bien crear una capa de drenaje a base de grava en el fondo de la maceta. Usaremos macetas de barro o terracota para su cultivo pues permiten el paso del agua y la circulación del aire.
Los cactus necesitan sol, cuanto más mejor por supuesto, pero no les va mal un poquito de sombra. En el caso de las suculentas de hoja verde es imprescindible que cuenten con sombra en las horas más duras del día para que mantengan ese vivo color tan caracterísitico.
Para conseguir la floración de los cactus sobre todo, en el caso de las suculentas suele ser más fácil, es necesario forzarla. ¿Cómo se hace esto? Pues de manera muy sencilla, los cactus necesitan de un periodo invernal para que después puedan florecer. Tendremos que colocarlas durante un periodo de entre 2 y 4 meses en un lugar en el que la temperatura no supere los 15ºC y regaremos sólo un para de veces en ese tiempo.
Durante este periodo de descanso no van a necesitar apenas sol por lo que podemos guardarlos en un cobertizo. Aunque dejar que tomen un poco de sol de vez en cuando no les irá nada mal. Conforme vayan subiendo las temperaturas les aportaremos más agua y sol para que se vayan reactivando. Drenaje, hibernación y sol son los tres ingredientes básicos para que nuestros cactus florezcan. Sin olvidar aportarles algo de alimento, las algas y cultivar trébol en la base es una buena forma de aportarles nitrógeno.
Aunque mucha de la gente que tiene cactus en casa es difícil que los vean florecer no es imposible. Por supuesto pues son plantas que florecen como las demás aunque lo hacen de forma escasa y casi reservada. Muchos cactus sólo nos ofrecerán una flor y para ello hay que cumplir a rajatabla con sus necesidades.
Muchísimos cactus mueren por exceso de agua. Es un punto que hay que tener en cuenta. Son plantas que necesitan un sustrato especial que facilite el drenado e incluso les va muy bien crear una capa de drenaje a base de grava en el fondo de la maceta. Usaremos macetas de barro o terracota para su cultivo pues permiten el paso del agua y la circulación del aire.
Los cactus necesitan sol, cuanto más mejor por supuesto, pero no les va mal un poquito de sombra. En el caso de las suculentas de hoja verde es imprescindible que cuenten con sombra en las horas más duras del día para que mantengan ese vivo color tan caracterísitico.
Para conseguir la floración de los cactus sobre todo, en el caso de las suculentas suele ser más fácil, es necesario forzarla. ¿Cómo se hace esto? Pues de manera muy sencilla, los cactus necesitan de un periodo invernal para que después puedan florecer. Tendremos que colocarlas durante un periodo de entre 2 y 4 meses en un lugar en el que la temperatura no supere los 15ºC y regaremos sólo un para de veces en ese tiempo.
Durante este periodo de descanso no van a necesitar apenas sol por lo que podemos guardarlos en un cobertizo. Aunque dejar que tomen un poco de sol de vez en cuando no les irá nada mal. Conforme vayan subiendo las temperaturas les aportaremos más agua y sol para que se vayan reactivando. Drenaje, hibernación y sol son los tres ingredientes básicos para que nuestros cactus florezcan. Sin olvidar aportarles algo de alimento, las algas y cultivar trébol en la base es una buena forma de aportarles nitrógeno.
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