文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
Creeping bellflower is a delicate, hardy, disease-resistant perennial that grows readily in a variety of conditions. Even though there are numerous bellflower species, the creeping variety is relatively easy to identify. The leaves found at the base of the plant are heart-shaped and become narrower and more lance-like as they move upwards. The drooping, bell-shaped purple flowers appear during the summer, growing up one side of the stem. You may think that a beautiful, easy-to-grow plant would make for a perfect garden bloom, but you'd be wrong—in fact, creeping bellflower is considered extremely invasive.
If you introduce this aggressive species to your garden, you must do so carefully and strategically—otherwise, it won't be long before it chokes out your other flowers and proves almost impossible to eradicate. It has a fast-spreading and deep root system of long tubers that can become many gardeners' nemesis if left untamed. Now that the extent of its aggressive nature has been discovered, it's classed as an invasive species across much of the country.
Brought to North America from its native Europe, creeping bellflower was initially a popular plant thanks to its ability to attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. Creeping bellflower produces an abundance of seeds in the summer (upwards of 15,000 per plant), which are then easily distributed by insects and gentle breezes. The plant will grow rapidly and can take over your landscape in as little as a season if left to its own devices. Ultimately, though it is beautiful, it's not recommended that you plant creeping bellflower in your garden or landscape.
Botanical Name Campanula rapunculoides
Common Name Creeping bellflower, rampion bellflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2–4 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time July to September
Flower Color Lavender, purple
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Creeping Bellflower Care
Creeping bellflower grows pretty much anywhere. It can thrive in various light conditions and handles a variety of different soil types easily—even those that have poor drainage or are infertile. It's found in most parts of North America, other than the hottest southeastern states. That being said, moist and shady locations are where the plant tends to be at its most invasive.
Light
Creeping bellflower will be most pervasive (and reseeds itself most aggressively) when growing in full sunlight. However, the plant can sustain just fine in partial shade and full shade locations as well.
Soil
While it can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, creeping bellflower will grow most prolifically in a soil blend that is moist but well-draining. Additionally, it can adapt to a wide range of neutral to acidic pH levels.
Water
Creeping bellflower plants prefer consistent water, and do best with about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or manual watering methods. Once established, they are mildly drought-tolerant, though a lack of water will impact their blooming.
Temperature and Humidity
Though creeping bellflower is well-adapted to a variety of temperature and humidity environments, it spreads and grows most rapidly in the cooler weather of early spring or late fall. Additionally, the plants are cold-hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, though they will cease to bloom at extremely cold temperatures.
Fertilizer
Creeping bellflower spreads readily and aggressively on its own, and should not be given fertilizer.
How to Remove Creeping Bellflower
Be prepared for a long project when attempting to eradicate the tenacious creeping bellflower from your landscape. Rigorous hand pulling, mowing, and deadheading won't eradicate the species, but it'll prevent reseeding and can help control spread somewhat. It can take several years of hard work to eliminate this species, and some horticulturists choose to focus on managing it instead.
Removing The Roots
Part of the problem with removing creeping bellflower is that its white, fleshy underground rhizomes and deep taproots can't simply be pulled out. Doing so carelessly will inevitably leave pieces still in the soil, and even the smallest rhizomatous section can result in regrowth.
For the best success, digging out the roots is required. You'll need to dig at least 6 to 9 inches into the soil on all sides of the plant. Slowly and methodically sift out any root sections you find, and all parts of the plant should be put into sealed general waste bags. If added to compost heaps or bins, they could grow back once the compost is applied.
Creeping bellflower roots can also become entangled with the roots of other nearby plants. You may have to sacrifice other species while you're working to rid your garden of this weed. If you have a prized plant you want to try saving, it's best to remove it and carefully try to separate it from the roots of the bellflower. The roots should then be washed off, and the plant should be kept in a pot to make sure that no creeping bellflower growth reappears.
Smothering Methods
Another method for removing creeping bellflower is to cover the plants to deprive them of light. However, this is only practical if the flowers are growing in small patches. To do so, you can use newspapers, cardboard, or plastic, which is then covered over with soil or heavy mulch. Though it may seem easier, this method isn't always foolproof—sometimes, creeping bellflower's roots will lie in a dormant state (tricking you into thinking it's been eradicated) and new growth could appear the following season.
Chemical Removal
Chemically removing your creeping bellflower is best kept as a last resort. Not only can herbicides pose a risk to the environment, humans, and animals alike, but they don't always have the best success rate. However, if you find the plant has invaded your patio. driveway cracks, or paved areas in your garden, it could be worth adopting this method as it won't be possible to dig up the roots. Likewise, if the plants have spread to your lawn, you could apply a herbicide containing the active ingredient triclopyr as this won't damage the grass.
Widely available broadleaf herbicides and defoliants such as 2,4-D have been proven ineffective at dealing with creeping bellflower. Limited success has been shown, however, with those that contain the active ingredient glyphosate, likeRoundup. Applying the treatment directly with a sponge can prevent it from coming into contact with other nearby broadleaf species. Best success, however, will occur if it's sprayed generously on the plant.
Treatments should be applied in late spring or early fall, while temperatures are between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You also want to ensure there isn't any rain in the forecast for at least a couple of days after the treatment, too. Weekly reapplications for several weeks are often recommended.
If you introduce this aggressive species to your garden, you must do so carefully and strategically—otherwise, it won't be long before it chokes out your other flowers and proves almost impossible to eradicate. It has a fast-spreading and deep root system of long tubers that can become many gardeners' nemesis if left untamed. Now that the extent of its aggressive nature has been discovered, it's classed as an invasive species across much of the country.
Brought to North America from its native Europe, creeping bellflower was initially a popular plant thanks to its ability to attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. Creeping bellflower produces an abundance of seeds in the summer (upwards of 15,000 per plant), which are then easily distributed by insects and gentle breezes. The plant will grow rapidly and can take over your landscape in as little as a season if left to its own devices. Ultimately, though it is beautiful, it's not recommended that you plant creeping bellflower in your garden or landscape.
Botanical Name Campanula rapunculoides
Common Name Creeping bellflower, rampion bellflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2–4 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time July to September
Flower Color Lavender, purple
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Creeping Bellflower Care
Creeping bellflower grows pretty much anywhere. It can thrive in various light conditions and handles a variety of different soil types easily—even those that have poor drainage or are infertile. It's found in most parts of North America, other than the hottest southeastern states. That being said, moist and shady locations are where the plant tends to be at its most invasive.
Light
Creeping bellflower will be most pervasive (and reseeds itself most aggressively) when growing in full sunlight. However, the plant can sustain just fine in partial shade and full shade locations as well.
Soil
While it can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, creeping bellflower will grow most prolifically in a soil blend that is moist but well-draining. Additionally, it can adapt to a wide range of neutral to acidic pH levels.
Water
Creeping bellflower plants prefer consistent water, and do best with about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or manual watering methods. Once established, they are mildly drought-tolerant, though a lack of water will impact their blooming.
Temperature and Humidity
Though creeping bellflower is well-adapted to a variety of temperature and humidity environments, it spreads and grows most rapidly in the cooler weather of early spring or late fall. Additionally, the plants are cold-hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, though they will cease to bloom at extremely cold temperatures.
Fertilizer
Creeping bellflower spreads readily and aggressively on its own, and should not be given fertilizer.
How to Remove Creeping Bellflower
Be prepared for a long project when attempting to eradicate the tenacious creeping bellflower from your landscape. Rigorous hand pulling, mowing, and deadheading won't eradicate the species, but it'll prevent reseeding and can help control spread somewhat. It can take several years of hard work to eliminate this species, and some horticulturists choose to focus on managing it instead.
Removing The Roots
Part of the problem with removing creeping bellflower is that its white, fleshy underground rhizomes and deep taproots can't simply be pulled out. Doing so carelessly will inevitably leave pieces still in the soil, and even the smallest rhizomatous section can result in regrowth.
For the best success, digging out the roots is required. You'll need to dig at least 6 to 9 inches into the soil on all sides of the plant. Slowly and methodically sift out any root sections you find, and all parts of the plant should be put into sealed general waste bags. If added to compost heaps or bins, they could grow back once the compost is applied.
Creeping bellflower roots can also become entangled with the roots of other nearby plants. You may have to sacrifice other species while you're working to rid your garden of this weed. If you have a prized plant you want to try saving, it's best to remove it and carefully try to separate it from the roots of the bellflower. The roots should then be washed off, and the plant should be kept in a pot to make sure that no creeping bellflower growth reappears.
Smothering Methods
Another method for removing creeping bellflower is to cover the plants to deprive them of light. However, this is only practical if the flowers are growing in small patches. To do so, you can use newspapers, cardboard, or plastic, which is then covered over with soil or heavy mulch. Though it may seem easier, this method isn't always foolproof—sometimes, creeping bellflower's roots will lie in a dormant state (tricking you into thinking it's been eradicated) and new growth could appear the following season.
Chemical Removal
Chemically removing your creeping bellflower is best kept as a last resort. Not only can herbicides pose a risk to the environment, humans, and animals alike, but they don't always have the best success rate. However, if you find the plant has invaded your patio. driveway cracks, or paved areas in your garden, it could be worth adopting this method as it won't be possible to dig up the roots. Likewise, if the plants have spread to your lawn, you could apply a herbicide containing the active ingredient triclopyr as this won't damage the grass.
Widely available broadleaf herbicides and defoliants such as 2,4-D have been proven ineffective at dealing with creeping bellflower. Limited success has been shown, however, with those that contain the active ingredient glyphosate, likeRoundup. Applying the treatment directly with a sponge can prevent it from coming into contact with other nearby broadleaf species. Best success, however, will occur if it's sprayed generously on the plant.
Treatments should be applied in late spring or early fall, while temperatures are between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You also want to ensure there isn't any rain in the forecast for at least a couple of days after the treatment, too. Weekly reapplications for several weeks are often recommended.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
The crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a species of small, beautiful tree native to Asia that has naturalized in the Deep South of the United States. So often used in landscaping is Lagerstroemia indica that as you travel around some areas of the country, that you will see its presence in almost every yard. Though certainly not unique, its common use is a testament to its stunning blossoms, peeling bark, and attractive fall foliage that gives the crepe myrtle unrivaled all-season interest.
Common Name Crepe Myrtle
Botanical Name Lagerstroemia indica
Family Name Lythraceae
Plant Type Deciduous tree / large shrub
Mature Size 6-25 ft. tall, 6-20 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 6.0-6.5
Bloom Time July-September
Flower Color Red-rose
Hardiness Zones USDA 6-9
Native Area China, Indochina, Himalayas, Japan
Crepe Myrtle Care
This species of Lagerstroemia is generally a lower maintenance selection. Though low maintenance, there are some things you can do to help get the best blooms from your crepe myrtle and ensure that your tree thrives. As always, it all starts with planning and selecting the right location. Crepe myrtles tolerate pollution, so they can handle being closer to a street, but their smaller size does not allow the species to act as a street tree. Decide in advance if you want your plant to be a shrub or a tree in form and plan for that growth. The rest of the care is all about site conditions and some basic maintenance. Knowing where to plant your tree and how to take care of it will ensure you get the most beauty for your buck.
Tip
Crepe myrtle, though often listed as a shrub, is not really a shrub or low-growing tree. Be prepared for it to grow up to 25-30 ft. tall. Sometimes owners of crepe myrtles who want them to stay shrub-sized will cut the main central branch (i.e., top it),which permanently ruins their growth structure and can make them extremely unsightly and sickly in the long run. Topping crepe myrtles is such a common mistake it has been dubbed "crepe murder." So, if you are certain you don't want a tree and only want a shrub, it might be best to pick a different plant!
Light
To get the most prolific blooms with the best color from your tree, pay attention to the amount of sunlight. Crepe myrtle needs full sun to thrive. You should place it in a spot in your landscape that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Anything less and you will notice a big fall off on blossoms.
Soil
Crepe myrtle is not too demanding regarding soil pH, but it prefers neutral or slightly acidic soil over alkaline soil. However, it does get finicky with its soil moisture. The soil must be well-draining; a crepe myrtle cannot tolerate standing water, because it is susceptible to root rot. You will also want to avoid very rich soil since this produces more foliage than the desired flowers.
Water
Unlike most trees, the crepe myrtle needs water often, especially if the soil is not moist. To bolster those beautiful blooms, you need to water the roots deeply, particularly during dry periods. As usual, you will need to water it as it is being established, but if you live in an area that does not get a good amount of rain, it is a great idea to continue watering your crepe myrtle using the same method as you would with a newly planted tree. Water your crepe with two to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter. It is important to only water the roots of crepe myrtle, especially if your tree does not have enough space around it for airflow; you want to avoid watering the foliage. Wetting the foliage during watering invites powdery mildew.
Temperature and Humidity
Though the USDA zone map says 6-9, growing crepe myrtles north of zone 7 can be tricky. Roots that are well-protected underground or mulched will be hardy enough to survive colder winters, but exposed branches will not make it through winters that reach less than -5° Fahrenheit. To combat this, consider pruning all branches to the soil level. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so new blooms will come out yearly as the tree emerges in the spring.
Fertilizer
You will want only to fertilize your crepe myrtle very lightly or avoid it completely. Supplemental fertilizers tend to increase foliage growth which in turn inhibits bloom production. If you need to use a fertilizer, choose a slow-release fertilizer with high nitrogen content. The content can be found by reading the NPK formulation. Before fertilizing, the best thing to do is to run a simple soil test to see if your soil is really deficient or if there is another issue.
Types of Lagerstroemia Indica
Lagerstroemia indica is just one plant of a genus containing 50 or so species. Straight species of L. indica are not sold in the nursery trade so you will always be buying a cultivar or hybrid, but unfortunately, they are not often marked well and the tag will just say "Crepe Myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica." If you purchase from a reputable nursery this won't be the case and you have the chance to choose from some outstanding cultivars with amazing traits that vary from form, color, and size. Some common cultivars you may see are:
Lagerstroemia Indica ' Enduring Summer White' – A dwarf variety with white blooms, 4-5’ tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica ''Tuskarora' - Bright watermelon pink blossoms followed by orange fall color.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Catawba' - Purple blooming variety, with great fall color and a rounded habit reaching 10-15' tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Muskogee' – 22-25’ tall and wide, lavender-blue flowers and light gray bark.
Pruning
Pruning your crepe myrtle is a chore that needs to be done for a few reasons. Pruning can aid in bloom production and help beautify the plant by exposing the exfoliating bark, increasing seasonal interest, and establishing the best size and form by removing suckers and errant branches. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so pruning in the winter or early spring will promote prolific blooming. If you are trying to establish your plant as a tree form, it is important to prune all but one trunk off to establish a leader. Creating a tree form, in turn, will create the chore of tidying suckers and structural pruning until a single leader is developed. A single trunk creates the stunning visual of the peeling bark that makes the Lagerstroemia indica shine even in the winter.
Common Pest and Plant Diseases
Luckily crepe myrtles don't deal with too many pest issues, but they are susceptible to powdery mildew, sooty mold, and other fungal infections. The best way to deal with these issues is, of course, prevention. To prevent these issues from arising, water the roots rather than the foliage and allow your tree to have plenty of space to air dry after rainstorms. Yearly treatment with a general fungicide can also reduce the risk of an infected plant.
FAQ
Are all crepe myrtles shrubs?
No. It depends on the cultivar and how you wish to prune and train your plant.
Can crepe myrtles be used as hedges?
Yes, crepe myrtles make excellent hedges, though they do require regular pruning.
Do Crepe myrtles only come in pink?
Some cultivars give white, lavender, red, purple, burgundy, pale blue, purple, and mauve and different sizes and forms. If you choose a different species of Lagerstroemia, you can even find evergreen crepe myrtles.
Common Name Crepe Myrtle
Botanical Name Lagerstroemia indica
Family Name Lythraceae
Plant Type Deciduous tree / large shrub
Mature Size 6-25 ft. tall, 6-20 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average, medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 6.0-6.5
Bloom Time July-September
Flower Color Red-rose
Hardiness Zones USDA 6-9
Native Area China, Indochina, Himalayas, Japan
Crepe Myrtle Care
This species of Lagerstroemia is generally a lower maintenance selection. Though low maintenance, there are some things you can do to help get the best blooms from your crepe myrtle and ensure that your tree thrives. As always, it all starts with planning and selecting the right location. Crepe myrtles tolerate pollution, so they can handle being closer to a street, but their smaller size does not allow the species to act as a street tree. Decide in advance if you want your plant to be a shrub or a tree in form and plan for that growth. The rest of the care is all about site conditions and some basic maintenance. Knowing where to plant your tree and how to take care of it will ensure you get the most beauty for your buck.
Tip
Crepe myrtle, though often listed as a shrub, is not really a shrub or low-growing tree. Be prepared for it to grow up to 25-30 ft. tall. Sometimes owners of crepe myrtles who want them to stay shrub-sized will cut the main central branch (i.e., top it),which permanently ruins their growth structure and can make them extremely unsightly and sickly in the long run. Topping crepe myrtles is such a common mistake it has been dubbed "crepe murder." So, if you are certain you don't want a tree and only want a shrub, it might be best to pick a different plant!
Light
To get the most prolific blooms with the best color from your tree, pay attention to the amount of sunlight. Crepe myrtle needs full sun to thrive. You should place it in a spot in your landscape that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Anything less and you will notice a big fall off on blossoms.
Soil
Crepe myrtle is not too demanding regarding soil pH, but it prefers neutral or slightly acidic soil over alkaline soil. However, it does get finicky with its soil moisture. The soil must be well-draining; a crepe myrtle cannot tolerate standing water, because it is susceptible to root rot. You will also want to avoid very rich soil since this produces more foliage than the desired flowers.
Water
Unlike most trees, the crepe myrtle needs water often, especially if the soil is not moist. To bolster those beautiful blooms, you need to water the roots deeply, particularly during dry periods. As usual, you will need to water it as it is being established, but if you live in an area that does not get a good amount of rain, it is a great idea to continue watering your crepe myrtle using the same method as you would with a newly planted tree. Water your crepe with two to three gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter. It is important to only water the roots of crepe myrtle, especially if your tree does not have enough space around it for airflow; you want to avoid watering the foliage. Wetting the foliage during watering invites powdery mildew.
Temperature and Humidity
Though the USDA zone map says 6-9, growing crepe myrtles north of zone 7 can be tricky. Roots that are well-protected underground or mulched will be hardy enough to survive colder winters, but exposed branches will not make it through winters that reach less than -5° Fahrenheit. To combat this, consider pruning all branches to the soil level. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so new blooms will come out yearly as the tree emerges in the spring.
Fertilizer
You will want only to fertilize your crepe myrtle very lightly or avoid it completely. Supplemental fertilizers tend to increase foliage growth which in turn inhibits bloom production. If you need to use a fertilizer, choose a slow-release fertilizer with high nitrogen content. The content can be found by reading the NPK formulation. Before fertilizing, the best thing to do is to run a simple soil test to see if your soil is really deficient or if there is another issue.
Types of Lagerstroemia Indica
Lagerstroemia indica is just one plant of a genus containing 50 or so species. Straight species of L. indica are not sold in the nursery trade so you will always be buying a cultivar or hybrid, but unfortunately, they are not often marked well and the tag will just say "Crepe Myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica." If you purchase from a reputable nursery this won't be the case and you have the chance to choose from some outstanding cultivars with amazing traits that vary from form, color, and size. Some common cultivars you may see are:
Lagerstroemia Indica ' Enduring Summer White' – A dwarf variety with white blooms, 4-5’ tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica ''Tuskarora' - Bright watermelon pink blossoms followed by orange fall color.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Catawba' - Purple blooming variety, with great fall color and a rounded habit reaching 10-15' tall and wide.
Lagerstroemia Indica 'Muskogee' – 22-25’ tall and wide, lavender-blue flowers and light gray bark.
Pruning
Pruning your crepe myrtle is a chore that needs to be done for a few reasons. Pruning can aid in bloom production and help beautify the plant by exposing the exfoliating bark, increasing seasonal interest, and establishing the best size and form by removing suckers and errant branches. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, so pruning in the winter or early spring will promote prolific blooming. If you are trying to establish your plant as a tree form, it is important to prune all but one trunk off to establish a leader. Creating a tree form, in turn, will create the chore of tidying suckers and structural pruning until a single leader is developed. A single trunk creates the stunning visual of the peeling bark that makes the Lagerstroemia indica shine even in the winter.
Common Pest and Plant Diseases
Luckily crepe myrtles don't deal with too many pest issues, but they are susceptible to powdery mildew, sooty mold, and other fungal infections. The best way to deal with these issues is, of course, prevention. To prevent these issues from arising, water the roots rather than the foliage and allow your tree to have plenty of space to air dry after rainstorms. Yearly treatment with a general fungicide can also reduce the risk of an infected plant.
FAQ
Are all crepe myrtles shrubs?
No. It depends on the cultivar and how you wish to prune and train your plant.
Can crepe myrtles be used as hedges?
Yes, crepe myrtles make excellent hedges, though they do require regular pruning.
Do Crepe myrtles only come in pink?
Some cultivars give white, lavender, red, purple, burgundy, pale blue, purple, and mauve and different sizes and forms. If you choose a different species of Lagerstroemia, you can even find evergreen crepe myrtles.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
The common name "creeping thyme" can refer to one of several woody-stemmed perennial species of the Thymus genus that are good groundcovers for sunny areas. While not all types are grown as herbs, they are in the mint family and have a pleasant scent; most can be used for cooking. It is closely related to the well-known edible herb. Most thyme plants are perennial in moderate climates. While some thyme species are upright and shrub-like, creeping types are low-growing with a vine-like habit. They are principally grown for the fine texture of their pointed blue-green leaves as they spread out to softly blanket the ground, but they also produce flowers of various colors, depending on the type. On mature plants, flowers usually appear in late spring and early summer.
Plant creeping thyme from seeds or potted nursery starts in the spring. In its first year, it's a slow-to-moderate grower, but once it's established, it will spread quicker in subsequent years.
Common Name Creeping thyme
Botanical Name Thymus spp.
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2-6 in. tall, 6-18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained, sandy
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Pink, white, purple
Hardiness Zones 2–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Creeping Thyme Care
Creeping thyme plants grow best in well-draining soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. Like most herb plants, creeping thyme seems to thrive in poor soils. They will grow best in full sun, although they will tolerate some shade.
Creeping thyme plants can become woody over time. If woody stems take over, you may want to remove and replace the plants or strongly prune back the plants to rejuvenate growth.
Creeping thyme is a hardy plant that doesn't have many problems, although it can be susceptible to root rot in wet, soggy soil.
Light
Creeping thyme is native to the Mediterranean regions of southern Europe, and is therefore a sun-loving plant that needs full sun (at least six hours daily) to thrive.
Soil
An essential element to soil success with thyme is drainage. It doesn't like wet feet, so make sure the soil drains well. It loves loose, sandy, rocky soil, and even loam if it drains well. It does not do well in wet clay.
Water
One issue with using fast-draining soils is that it is easy for the plant to dry out if you're not paying attention. Do not let creeping thyme get parched, especially when it's a young plant. For the most part, thyme planted in the ground or maintained at a steady, non-sweltering temperature should only need watering every 10 days; however, potted thyme outdoors in blazing hot temperatures will need watering once daily. You want the roots to be moist, but they should not be sitting in standing water.
Temperature and Humidity
There are creeping thyme species appropriate for zones 2 to 9, though each species has its own recommended hardiness range. As a general rule, thyme plants don't like humidity. If you live in a humid area and your plant is losing leaves, or if the foliage is looking rough, trim off the affected stems and improve air circulation. Also, add sand or gravel around the plant's base to prevent contact with moist soil. Affected plants should revive when the weather turns cooler and drier.
Fertilizer
Creeping thyme growing in well-prepared soil shouldn't need to be fed. If the soil is poor, you can compensate by providing a delayed-release fertilizer once at the beginning of each growing season. For the amount to use, follow the product label instructions.
Types of Creeping Thyme
English thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is the best-known thyme variety—it's also called common thyme or garden thyme, and is typically grown as a culinary herb. However, several types of creeping thyme are low to the ground and spread efficiently.
Spicy orange creeping thyme (Thymus 'Spicy Orange') has pink flowers and grows 2 to 4 inches tall; it is hardy in zones 5 to 9.
White creeping thyme (Thymus paocos 'Albiflorus') has white flowers and grows 1 to 2 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide. It is hardy in zones 2 to 9.
Red creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum 'Coccineus') has pink flowers. It grows 3 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide and is hardy in zones 4 to 9.
Wooly (or woolly) thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus) has pale pink flowers. It grows 3 inches tall and 3 to 12 inches wide, and is hardy in zones 5 to 8.
Pruning
Repeated pruning is the most burdensome garden task if you want to grow creeping thyme successfully.
Prune back creeping thyme stems in the early spring to prepare the plant for the growing season ahead. Prune again after the flowers die back, usually by the end of summer. In late fall, after the first frost, prune the leggiest, woodiest stems by half. This pruning encourages vigorous, young growth in the spring.
Propagating Creeping Thyme
Thyme is a prolific grower; it self-seeds and likes to spread. Dividing thyme and taking stem cuttings gives your older plant a new lease on life, encouraging new growth. You can propagate creeping thyme via three methods: division, stem cuttings, and seeds. The best time to divide or take cuttings is in the late spring or early summer.
By Division
To propagate via division, you will need a sterilized sharp knife or spade. If you are planting into a new container, make sure the pot is clean and has well-draining soil. Use a pot with at least 3 inches of growing room on all sides and below the plant. Water the plant well before you divide it.
Remove the root ball from the container, or if you are removing the plant from the ground, dig around the plant in a circle, about 3 to 4 inches from the center of the plant.
To divide, cut through the middle of the plant, keeping the roots intact as much as possible. You can make multiple cuts as long as your plant has healthy roots. If you have old soil around your plant's roots, you can tap or shake it off.
Put soil at the bottom of the pot and center the plant in the middle. The plant should have the same soil line as before. Add soil around all sides of the root ball. The packed soil should keep the plant upright. Add water until you see water run out the bottom. The soil should not appear soggy. Place it in a sunny location.
By Stem Cuttings
To propagate via stem cutting, you will need a healthy, non-flowering stem with new leaf growth on it, sterilized scissors or pruners, rooting hormone, fresh well-draining potting mix, and a clean pot.
Cut the stem anywhere, giving you a piece that is 4 to 6 inches long. Remove the bottom 2 inches of leaves.
Apply rooting hormone to the cut end of the stem, then plant the stem cutting in the center of a small container filled with fresh potting mix. Place the plant in a sunny spot. Water it and keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
When new growth is apparent, the plant can be transplanted into the garden, if you wish.
How to Grow Creeping Thyme From Seed
You can start thyme from seed indoors in a small growing tray before the final frost, using a quality seed starting mix. Plant seeds on the surface of the mix with a bare covering of additional mix. (These seeds need light to germinate.) Keep the water evenly moist in a warm, bright spot about 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. To moisten the top of the soil, use a spray bottle. The seeds should germinate within 14 to 21 days. Once the seedlings have 3 to 4 inches of growth, you can transplant them into a new container or plant them in the ground once the threat of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Thyme
If you are transplanting thyme, give them room to spread by planting just one specimen per pot. If you have containers that are several feet long (such as window boxes), you can plant them about 1 foot apart. The best containers are porous—such as clay or terracotta—but any container will do as long as it has ample drainage holes.
Once the plant grows too big for the container, remove the root ball and divide it. You can replant the smaller division back into the container it was in, giving it fresh potting mix. The remaining division can go into a similar container with fresh potting mix or into the garden, making way for fresh growth.
Overwintering
In zones where winters are cold, thyme is semi-evergreen, which means it will remain mostly green and keep its leaves, but may die back some and some branches may die. The best way to protect plants in colder USDA zones is by giving them a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch after the cold weather has set in. Apply it on a day that has hit a freezing temperature. It will keep the soil at a consistent temperature and give the plant a better chance of surviving a rollercoaster of warming and cooling temperatures that can harm a plant.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
In hot, dry summer conditions, spider mites can be a problem with creeping thyme plants. Insecitidal soap is an effective treatment for these pests. On indoor plants, both spider mites and aphids are possible, again treatable with insecticidal soap.
Creeping thyme is susceptible to root rot in wet, dense soils. Affected plants will need to be removed.1
How to Get Creeping Thyme to Bloom
Flowering creeping thyme is very attractive to bees, and pollen from blooming thyme often flavors the resulting honey. The tiny leaves are aromatic, as are the flowers, which have a balsamic or citrus scent similar to the leaves. Depending on the variety, flowers can be white, pink, or purple.
You do not have to deadhead thyme flowers. And, unlike other flowering herbs, if this plant develops flowers, its leaves will not lose their flavor. The flowers are edible too.
It blooms in spring or summer for about three to four weeks. Most thyme plants do not flower in their first growing season. If your plant is established and not flowering, you can try a diluted, half-strength liquid fertilizer. Thyme doesn't usually need enriched soil, but it may be the boost the plant needs to encourage flower production.
To keep your thyme blooming year after year, pruning your oldest, woodiest stems at the end of the growing season will encourage new growth and flowers in the spring.
Common Problems With Creeping Thyme
Creeping thyme has relatively few care needs. It's resilient against diseases and pests and is only susceptible to a few issues.
Woody Stems
As thyme ages and grows late in the season, it may start to get spindly and leggy. Pruning woody herbs at the end of the season is the best way to encourage new growth in the coming season. It simply requires some attention at the end of the fall season after the first frost or in early spring. Wait to prune after the plant's first growing season. Cutting is better than pulling out dead, woody stems since you run the risk of pulling out healthy new growth.
Drooping Stems With Yellowing, Browning Leaves
A thyme plant that gets too much water has poorly draining soil, not enough drainage holes, or is exposed to too much humidity can get yellowing or browning leaves. Decrease your watering schedule and check to see that your soil is fast-draining and there are ample holes for the water drain. Fix these parameters, and your plant may rebound if caught before the plant develops full-blown root rot, a common disease when the soil is too soggy for the roots.
If you pull your plant out of the pot and notice black, rotting roots, use sterilized scissors or pruners to snip away the dead roots. Replant the healthy roots in a clean pot with fresh, well-draining soil. Also, excess nitrogen in the soil can cause a thyme plant to grow leggy, wilt, or get yellowing leaves. Steer clear of fertilizers that have a high nitrogen content.
Plant Dries Out
Thyme lives about four or five years at most, so if your plant starts to turn brown and looks like it's drying out and dying, it may be reaching the end of its life. Other causes can be severe frost, a lack of sun, or a fungal disease like root rot. If a harsh winter left stems looking dead, cut them back in the early spring, and the plant may rebound on its own. This sun-loving plant needs at least 6 hours of direct sun to be happy; make sure it's situated appropriately.
FAQ
How is this plant used in the landscape?
Creeping thyme is best used as a groundcover for small areas or to fill in spaces between stepping stones in sunny areas. It can be used to fill in crevices in retaining walls, and can also be grown in containers.
How long can creeping thyme live?
If you're growing creeping thyme in a pot, the original plant usually has a life span of about three to five years. However, it's a prolific plant and self-seeder. After a few years, it may look woody and spindly, so you could decide to cut back its woody stems. Commonly, you'll find baby sprouts underneath.
Can creeping thyme grow indoors?
Creeping thyme can grow indoors as long as you have a very bright window that gets at least six hours of direct sun streaming in; either that or a grow light should do.
What plants are similar to creeping thyme?
Sedum requieni, also known as miniature stonecrop, is a small-leaved, low-growing filler or groundcover that often gets confused for thyme. You can immediately tell the difference between the two by breaking off a piece and smelling the leaves; stonecrop is not fragrant.
Plant creeping thyme from seeds or potted nursery starts in the spring. In its first year, it's a slow-to-moderate grower, but once it's established, it will spread quicker in subsequent years.
Common Name Creeping thyme
Botanical Name Thymus spp.
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2-6 in. tall, 6-18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained, sandy
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Pink, white, purple
Hardiness Zones 2–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Creeping Thyme Care
Creeping thyme plants grow best in well-draining soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. Like most herb plants, creeping thyme seems to thrive in poor soils. They will grow best in full sun, although they will tolerate some shade.
Creeping thyme plants can become woody over time. If woody stems take over, you may want to remove and replace the plants or strongly prune back the plants to rejuvenate growth.
Creeping thyme is a hardy plant that doesn't have many problems, although it can be susceptible to root rot in wet, soggy soil.
Light
Creeping thyme is native to the Mediterranean regions of southern Europe, and is therefore a sun-loving plant that needs full sun (at least six hours daily) to thrive.
Soil
An essential element to soil success with thyme is drainage. It doesn't like wet feet, so make sure the soil drains well. It loves loose, sandy, rocky soil, and even loam if it drains well. It does not do well in wet clay.
Water
One issue with using fast-draining soils is that it is easy for the plant to dry out if you're not paying attention. Do not let creeping thyme get parched, especially when it's a young plant. For the most part, thyme planted in the ground or maintained at a steady, non-sweltering temperature should only need watering every 10 days; however, potted thyme outdoors in blazing hot temperatures will need watering once daily. You want the roots to be moist, but they should not be sitting in standing water.
Temperature and Humidity
There are creeping thyme species appropriate for zones 2 to 9, though each species has its own recommended hardiness range. As a general rule, thyme plants don't like humidity. If you live in a humid area and your plant is losing leaves, or if the foliage is looking rough, trim off the affected stems and improve air circulation. Also, add sand or gravel around the plant's base to prevent contact with moist soil. Affected plants should revive when the weather turns cooler and drier.
Fertilizer
Creeping thyme growing in well-prepared soil shouldn't need to be fed. If the soil is poor, you can compensate by providing a delayed-release fertilizer once at the beginning of each growing season. For the amount to use, follow the product label instructions.
Types of Creeping Thyme
English thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is the best-known thyme variety—it's also called common thyme or garden thyme, and is typically grown as a culinary herb. However, several types of creeping thyme are low to the ground and spread efficiently.
Spicy orange creeping thyme (Thymus 'Spicy Orange') has pink flowers and grows 2 to 4 inches tall; it is hardy in zones 5 to 9.
White creeping thyme (Thymus paocos 'Albiflorus') has white flowers and grows 1 to 2 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide. It is hardy in zones 2 to 9.
Red creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum 'Coccineus') has pink flowers. It grows 3 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide and is hardy in zones 4 to 9.
Wooly (or woolly) thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus) has pale pink flowers. It grows 3 inches tall and 3 to 12 inches wide, and is hardy in zones 5 to 8.
Pruning
Repeated pruning is the most burdensome garden task if you want to grow creeping thyme successfully.
Prune back creeping thyme stems in the early spring to prepare the plant for the growing season ahead. Prune again after the flowers die back, usually by the end of summer. In late fall, after the first frost, prune the leggiest, woodiest stems by half. This pruning encourages vigorous, young growth in the spring.
Propagating Creeping Thyme
Thyme is a prolific grower; it self-seeds and likes to spread. Dividing thyme and taking stem cuttings gives your older plant a new lease on life, encouraging new growth. You can propagate creeping thyme via three methods: division, stem cuttings, and seeds. The best time to divide or take cuttings is in the late spring or early summer.
By Division
To propagate via division, you will need a sterilized sharp knife or spade. If you are planting into a new container, make sure the pot is clean and has well-draining soil. Use a pot with at least 3 inches of growing room on all sides and below the plant. Water the plant well before you divide it.
Remove the root ball from the container, or if you are removing the plant from the ground, dig around the plant in a circle, about 3 to 4 inches from the center of the plant.
To divide, cut through the middle of the plant, keeping the roots intact as much as possible. You can make multiple cuts as long as your plant has healthy roots. If you have old soil around your plant's roots, you can tap or shake it off.
Put soil at the bottom of the pot and center the plant in the middle. The plant should have the same soil line as before. Add soil around all sides of the root ball. The packed soil should keep the plant upright. Add water until you see water run out the bottom. The soil should not appear soggy. Place it in a sunny location.
By Stem Cuttings
To propagate via stem cutting, you will need a healthy, non-flowering stem with new leaf growth on it, sterilized scissors or pruners, rooting hormone, fresh well-draining potting mix, and a clean pot.
Cut the stem anywhere, giving you a piece that is 4 to 6 inches long. Remove the bottom 2 inches of leaves.
Apply rooting hormone to the cut end of the stem, then plant the stem cutting in the center of a small container filled with fresh potting mix. Place the plant in a sunny spot. Water it and keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
When new growth is apparent, the plant can be transplanted into the garden, if you wish.
How to Grow Creeping Thyme From Seed
You can start thyme from seed indoors in a small growing tray before the final frost, using a quality seed starting mix. Plant seeds on the surface of the mix with a bare covering of additional mix. (These seeds need light to germinate.) Keep the water evenly moist in a warm, bright spot about 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. To moisten the top of the soil, use a spray bottle. The seeds should germinate within 14 to 21 days. Once the seedlings have 3 to 4 inches of growth, you can transplant them into a new container or plant them in the ground once the threat of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Thyme
If you are transplanting thyme, give them room to spread by planting just one specimen per pot. If you have containers that are several feet long (such as window boxes), you can plant them about 1 foot apart. The best containers are porous—such as clay or terracotta—but any container will do as long as it has ample drainage holes.
Once the plant grows too big for the container, remove the root ball and divide it. You can replant the smaller division back into the container it was in, giving it fresh potting mix. The remaining division can go into a similar container with fresh potting mix or into the garden, making way for fresh growth.
Overwintering
In zones where winters are cold, thyme is semi-evergreen, which means it will remain mostly green and keep its leaves, but may die back some and some branches may die. The best way to protect plants in colder USDA zones is by giving them a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch after the cold weather has set in. Apply it on a day that has hit a freezing temperature. It will keep the soil at a consistent temperature and give the plant a better chance of surviving a rollercoaster of warming and cooling temperatures that can harm a plant.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
In hot, dry summer conditions, spider mites can be a problem with creeping thyme plants. Insecitidal soap is an effective treatment for these pests. On indoor plants, both spider mites and aphids are possible, again treatable with insecticidal soap.
Creeping thyme is susceptible to root rot in wet, dense soils. Affected plants will need to be removed.1
How to Get Creeping Thyme to Bloom
Flowering creeping thyme is very attractive to bees, and pollen from blooming thyme often flavors the resulting honey. The tiny leaves are aromatic, as are the flowers, which have a balsamic or citrus scent similar to the leaves. Depending on the variety, flowers can be white, pink, or purple.
You do not have to deadhead thyme flowers. And, unlike other flowering herbs, if this plant develops flowers, its leaves will not lose their flavor. The flowers are edible too.
It blooms in spring or summer for about three to four weeks. Most thyme plants do not flower in their first growing season. If your plant is established and not flowering, you can try a diluted, half-strength liquid fertilizer. Thyme doesn't usually need enriched soil, but it may be the boost the plant needs to encourage flower production.
To keep your thyme blooming year after year, pruning your oldest, woodiest stems at the end of the growing season will encourage new growth and flowers in the spring.
Common Problems With Creeping Thyme
Creeping thyme has relatively few care needs. It's resilient against diseases and pests and is only susceptible to a few issues.
Woody Stems
As thyme ages and grows late in the season, it may start to get spindly and leggy. Pruning woody herbs at the end of the season is the best way to encourage new growth in the coming season. It simply requires some attention at the end of the fall season after the first frost or in early spring. Wait to prune after the plant's first growing season. Cutting is better than pulling out dead, woody stems since you run the risk of pulling out healthy new growth.
Drooping Stems With Yellowing, Browning Leaves
A thyme plant that gets too much water has poorly draining soil, not enough drainage holes, or is exposed to too much humidity can get yellowing or browning leaves. Decrease your watering schedule and check to see that your soil is fast-draining and there are ample holes for the water drain. Fix these parameters, and your plant may rebound if caught before the plant develops full-blown root rot, a common disease when the soil is too soggy for the roots.
If you pull your plant out of the pot and notice black, rotting roots, use sterilized scissors or pruners to snip away the dead roots. Replant the healthy roots in a clean pot with fresh, well-draining soil. Also, excess nitrogen in the soil can cause a thyme plant to grow leggy, wilt, or get yellowing leaves. Steer clear of fertilizers that have a high nitrogen content.
Plant Dries Out
Thyme lives about four or five years at most, so if your plant starts to turn brown and looks like it's drying out and dying, it may be reaching the end of its life. Other causes can be severe frost, a lack of sun, or a fungal disease like root rot. If a harsh winter left stems looking dead, cut them back in the early spring, and the plant may rebound on its own. This sun-loving plant needs at least 6 hours of direct sun to be happy; make sure it's situated appropriately.
FAQ
How is this plant used in the landscape?
Creeping thyme is best used as a groundcover for small areas or to fill in spaces between stepping stones in sunny areas. It can be used to fill in crevices in retaining walls, and can also be grown in containers.
How long can creeping thyme live?
If you're growing creeping thyme in a pot, the original plant usually has a life span of about three to five years. However, it's a prolific plant and self-seeder. After a few years, it may look woody and spindly, so you could decide to cut back its woody stems. Commonly, you'll find baby sprouts underneath.
Can creeping thyme grow indoors?
Creeping thyme can grow indoors as long as you have a very bright window that gets at least six hours of direct sun streaming in; either that or a grow light should do.
What plants are similar to creeping thyme?
Sedum requieni, also known as miniature stonecrop, is a small-leaved, low-growing filler or groundcover that often gets confused for thyme. You can immediately tell the difference between the two by breaking off a piece and smelling the leaves; stonecrop is not fragrant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月24日
The common name "coral bells" is used for several species in the Heuchera genus, comprising hundreds of varieties and hybrids. Coral bells is a traditional perennial foliage plant, with new varieties introduced every year. Native to North America, the plants form round mounds with a woody rootstock or crown at their base and small bell-shaped flowers that begin in spring or early summer on the tall stems. Rich in nectar, the flowers attract hummingbirds and butterflies, plus make nice cut blooms. Their leaves are rounded, lobed, hairy, and evergreen or semi-evergreen, depending on the climate. Besides traditional green-leaved coral bells, newer varieties have leaves in shades of purple, rose, lime green, gold, and more.
Coral bells are best planted in late fall or early spring and will grow at a moderate pace, making them a great option for woodlands, rock gardens, containers, borders, and ground covers. But they are short-lived perennials; unless divided regularly, they will die out in a few years.
Common Name Coral bells, alumroot
Botanical Name Heuchera spp.
Family Saxifragaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 8–18 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Rich, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, white, pink, orange
Hardiness Zones 4–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Coral Bells Care
Coral bells is a fairly easy plant to grow in a semi-shady location in a well-draining, organically rich soil. There are some hybrid cultivars that can do quite well in full sun—though they will require more water in order to thrive. This plant is a good choice for providing color in a landscape filled with shade trees.
While coral bells don't need much maintenance, you can cut back the entire flower stalk after flowering to put the plant's energy into growing more leaves. If the leaves get a bit ragged looking, especially after winter, cut them back and new growth should fill in quickly. Deadheading the faded flowers regularly will help ensure repeated blooming all summer and into fall.
Light
Most varieties of coral bells do best in partial shade, especially in hotter climates. Their color can become washed out if they're kept in full sun, and too much light can cause their leaves to scorch. Keep in mind, coral bells planted in damp shade can be prone to fungal diseases—if your plants start having problems, it's best to move them to a drier site.1
Soil
Coral bells prefer humus-rich soil with a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, somewhere between 6.0 and 7.0. Good drainage is a must, especially in shaded areas, as sitting in the damp soil will cause the crown of the plant to rot.2
Water
This plant has medium water needs and likes consistently moist soil. Established plants will tolerate some drought, but an inch of water per week is the best way to keep them happy. If you grow your coral bells in full sun, plan to give them extra water—their shallow roots will need extra moisture during hot, sunny days.
Temperature and Humidity
Coral bells are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 9, although the exact hardiness range does depend on the variety you're growing and its parentage. Some Heucheras are only hardy to zone 7, while others do well in cold but don't perform well south of zone 6. Most coral bells prefer relatively dry air, but Heuchera villosa, a native of the southeastern U.S., thrives on both heat and high humidity.
In regions with frigid winters, coral bells crowns can heave above the soil line in the winter. Winter mulching will help prevent the freezing/thawing cycle that pushes the plants up, and you should check periodically to make sure the roots are not exposed.
Fertilizer
Feed coral bells in the spring with a 1/2-inch layer of compost or a light amount of slow-release fertilizer. This plant has light feeding needs; you should avoid heavy applications of quick-release fertilizers, as this will inhibit flowering. Container-grown coral bells benefit from feeding with a water-soluble fertilizer to replenish nutrients that leach from the soil. For the amount, follow the product label instructions.
Types Coral Bells
Several different species of Heuchera, including H. americana, H. sanguinea, H. villosa, and H. parviflora, are commonly sold in the trade, along with named cultivars of each species. H. sanguina is regarded as the best species for ornamental purposes and is the one most often sold as coral bells; the other species are more often known as alumroot. The species plants have medium-green leaves, but 'Dale's Strain' and 'Purple Palace' were two of the first cultivars to offer reddish bronze and purple foliage.3
But even more popular are the many named cultivars derived from cross-species hybridization. These often simply carry the Heuchera label. The exact parentage of hybrids is sometimes lost, but H. americana and H. sanguina are thought to be the most common parent species. The most notable differences between varieties can be seen in their foliage color and texture variations. There are dozens of these cultivars, including:
Heuchera 'Autumn Leaves': As hinted at by its name, the leaves on this hybrid variety change color through the seasons, from red to caramel to ruby.
Heuchera 'Chocolate Ruffles': This hybrid variety has ruffled leaves with rich chocolaty color on the top and deep burgundy on the bottom.
Heuchera 'Green Spice': This hardy hybrid has large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
Heuchera 'Marmalade': Another frilly hybrid cultivar, the leaves on this version appear in shades ranging from umber to deep sienna.
Heuchera 'Citronelle; This variety has bright yellowish-green leaves that are excellent for brightening shady areas.
Heuchera 'Electric Lime': This striking variety has bright green leaves with blood-red veins.
Heuchera 'Fire Chief': Bright red spring foliage slowly deepens to crimson as the season progresses.
Propagating Coral Bells
Coral bells is most often propagated by dividing the root clumps. Either fall or spring division will work, though many gardeners prefer fall. Heuchera plants often produce small offsets around the parent plant, and it's an easy matter to carefully dig up these offsets and replant them. The root crowns of the divisions should be planted so they are just barely covered with soil.5
Heuchera plants are fairly short-lived, and this division should be done every three or four years in order to prevent them from dying out. To propagate mature plants:
Dig up the entire root clump with a shovel in fall or spring.
Cut the root clump into pieces, each having several growth shoots. The woody center portion can be discarded.
Prepare new planting sites by blending in plenty of compost or peat moss, then replant the divisions, just barely covering the root crowns.
How to Grow Coral Bells From Seed
You can start coral bells from seed, but results can be irregular if you are collecting seeds from hybrid plants. Commercial seeds will produce more predictable results. If you want to propagate plants by collecting seeds, it's best to start with pure species plants rather than nursery hybrids. Pure species are easiest to obtain from specialty nurseries or online retailers.
When starting seed, sprinkle the seed on the surface of the soil in late fall or early spring, making sure not to cover the seed as they need light to germinate. You can also start seeds indoors a couple of months before you plan to transplant. Coral bells seeds take two to eight weeks to germinate.
Once established, harden off the plants for 10 days, then transplant the seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. You can plant container-grown coral bells any time after the danger of frost has passed. Keep them well-watered their first year—other than that, they shouldn't require more than some relief from the extreme heat and rich, well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bells
Although it's not typical to grow perennials such as coral bells in containers, it certainly can be done, and this plant does quite well when grown that way. Choose a container that has good drainage and a potting mix that drains freely. When grown in containers, keep the root crown slightly higher than the soil level. If you want to overwinter these plants in pots, they will need to be moved to a protected location to shield them from cold winter temperatures. During the winter months, withhold water and allow the plants to go dormant.6
While the spectacular foliage might tempt you to try growing coral bells as a houseplant, they do not lend themselves to this use. These woodland plants can do fine in outdoor containers where they receive a dormant period over winter, but they rarely are successful as permanent indoor houseplants.
Overwintering
In warmer climates, this plant often remains evergreen through the winter. Because the roots are shallow, coral bells can be prone to winter root heaving in colder climates. A light mulch over the plants can prevent this. In other regions, overwintering simply involves cleaning up plant debris to prevent fungi from overwintering.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coral bells is usually a fairly carefree plant, but it can be affected by various fungal diseases, including powdery mildew, rust, and bacterial leaf spot.7
Potential insect problems include weevils and foliar nematodes. The larvae of the black vine weevil can bore into the crowns and roots of coral bells in late summer or early fall, causing infected plants to wilt and droop.8 You should be able to see the larvae on the plant and remove them by hand and destroy them. If an infection persists, treat your plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil.
How to Get Coral Bells to Bloom
Sparse blooming is usually not terribly concerning with these plants, since it is the foliage color that is of greatest appeal. But the stems of airy, delicate red or pink flowers certainly do have ornamental merit, and if planted in good growing conditions, you can expect repeated blooms from late spring into fall. Avoid overfeeding these plants, which can hinder blossoming as it stimulates foliage development. And some varieties bred to be sun-lovers may not bloom well if they are planted in deep shade.
Common Problems With Coral Bells
Coral bells are generally quite easy to grow, but there are some common cultural problems you may encounter:
Scalded Leaves
Most varieties of coral bells are not keen about growing in full sun, and they may exhibit burned, scorched leaves if they get too much sun, especially in climates with hot summers. Giving plants extra water during hot spells can minimize this scorching.
Plants Die Out After a Few Years
It's sometimes disappointing when a thriving coral bells plant suddenly declines, but this is rather normal, as these are short-lived perennials that usually live only four or five years. You can prolong the lifespan by dividing root clumps every three or four years, which will provide new plants to continue the lineage.
Plants Lift Out of the Ground
Coral bells have shallow root systems with crowns that are slightly exposed. In cold climates, frost heaving can push them out of the ground entirely, which will require you to replant them. A layer of mulch applied just after the ground freezes may help prevent heaving due to repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
FAQ
How should I use coral bells in the landscape?
Coral bells make wonderful edging plants and put on a show when planted in groups. Their foliage is vibrant and saturated and is great for playing up the colors of nearby flowers in the garden—darker purple leaves can make yellow flowers glow, while butterscotch-colored leaves can bring out the tones of simple green leaves.
Are there any coral bells varieties that work well in hot climates?
The more heat-tolerant cultivars often have Heuchera villosa in their parentage, which is a notably heat-tolerant species. Gardeners as far south as zone 9 usually have good success with varieties based on this species. Two excellent cultivars known for their heat tolerance are ‘Caramel’ and ‘Citronelle’. H. villosa is a native plant in the southeastern U.S. and hardy to zone 7.9
How about cold-winter gardens—are there any varieties that work in zone 3?
Heuchera sanguinea and its direct cultivars are considered hardy to zone 3. But you will need to make sure of the parentage, as many nursery hybrids have other species among their parents, which are not as cold-hardy. To buy pure H. sanguinea plants, you may need to shop at a specialty nursery.
Coral bells are best planted in late fall or early spring and will grow at a moderate pace, making them a great option for woodlands, rock gardens, containers, borders, and ground covers. But they are short-lived perennials; unless divided regularly, they will die out in a few years.
Common Name Coral bells, alumroot
Botanical Name Heuchera spp.
Family Saxifragaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 8–18 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Rich, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, white, pink, orange
Hardiness Zones 4–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Coral Bells Care
Coral bells is a fairly easy plant to grow in a semi-shady location in a well-draining, organically rich soil. There are some hybrid cultivars that can do quite well in full sun—though they will require more water in order to thrive. This plant is a good choice for providing color in a landscape filled with shade trees.
While coral bells don't need much maintenance, you can cut back the entire flower stalk after flowering to put the plant's energy into growing more leaves. If the leaves get a bit ragged looking, especially after winter, cut them back and new growth should fill in quickly. Deadheading the faded flowers regularly will help ensure repeated blooming all summer and into fall.
Light
Most varieties of coral bells do best in partial shade, especially in hotter climates. Their color can become washed out if they're kept in full sun, and too much light can cause their leaves to scorch. Keep in mind, coral bells planted in damp shade can be prone to fungal diseases—if your plants start having problems, it's best to move them to a drier site.1
Soil
Coral bells prefer humus-rich soil with a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, somewhere between 6.0 and 7.0. Good drainage is a must, especially in shaded areas, as sitting in the damp soil will cause the crown of the plant to rot.2
Water
This plant has medium water needs and likes consistently moist soil. Established plants will tolerate some drought, but an inch of water per week is the best way to keep them happy. If you grow your coral bells in full sun, plan to give them extra water—their shallow roots will need extra moisture during hot, sunny days.
Temperature and Humidity
Coral bells are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 9, although the exact hardiness range does depend on the variety you're growing and its parentage. Some Heucheras are only hardy to zone 7, while others do well in cold but don't perform well south of zone 6. Most coral bells prefer relatively dry air, but Heuchera villosa, a native of the southeastern U.S., thrives on both heat and high humidity.
In regions with frigid winters, coral bells crowns can heave above the soil line in the winter. Winter mulching will help prevent the freezing/thawing cycle that pushes the plants up, and you should check periodically to make sure the roots are not exposed.
Fertilizer
Feed coral bells in the spring with a 1/2-inch layer of compost or a light amount of slow-release fertilizer. This plant has light feeding needs; you should avoid heavy applications of quick-release fertilizers, as this will inhibit flowering. Container-grown coral bells benefit from feeding with a water-soluble fertilizer to replenish nutrients that leach from the soil. For the amount, follow the product label instructions.
Types Coral Bells
Several different species of Heuchera, including H. americana, H. sanguinea, H. villosa, and H. parviflora, are commonly sold in the trade, along with named cultivars of each species. H. sanguina is regarded as the best species for ornamental purposes and is the one most often sold as coral bells; the other species are more often known as alumroot. The species plants have medium-green leaves, but 'Dale's Strain' and 'Purple Palace' were two of the first cultivars to offer reddish bronze and purple foliage.3
But even more popular are the many named cultivars derived from cross-species hybridization. These often simply carry the Heuchera label. The exact parentage of hybrids is sometimes lost, but H. americana and H. sanguina are thought to be the most common parent species. The most notable differences between varieties can be seen in their foliage color and texture variations. There are dozens of these cultivars, including:
Heuchera 'Autumn Leaves': As hinted at by its name, the leaves on this hybrid variety change color through the seasons, from red to caramel to ruby.
Heuchera 'Chocolate Ruffles': This hybrid variety has ruffled leaves with rich chocolaty color on the top and deep burgundy on the bottom.
Heuchera 'Green Spice': This hardy hybrid has large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
Heuchera 'Marmalade': Another frilly hybrid cultivar, the leaves on this version appear in shades ranging from umber to deep sienna.
Heuchera 'Citronelle; This variety has bright yellowish-green leaves that are excellent for brightening shady areas.
Heuchera 'Electric Lime': This striking variety has bright green leaves with blood-red veins.
Heuchera 'Fire Chief': Bright red spring foliage slowly deepens to crimson as the season progresses.
Propagating Coral Bells
Coral bells is most often propagated by dividing the root clumps. Either fall or spring division will work, though many gardeners prefer fall. Heuchera plants often produce small offsets around the parent plant, and it's an easy matter to carefully dig up these offsets and replant them. The root crowns of the divisions should be planted so they are just barely covered with soil.5
Heuchera plants are fairly short-lived, and this division should be done every three or four years in order to prevent them from dying out. To propagate mature plants:
Dig up the entire root clump with a shovel in fall or spring.
Cut the root clump into pieces, each having several growth shoots. The woody center portion can be discarded.
Prepare new planting sites by blending in plenty of compost or peat moss, then replant the divisions, just barely covering the root crowns.
How to Grow Coral Bells From Seed
You can start coral bells from seed, but results can be irregular if you are collecting seeds from hybrid plants. Commercial seeds will produce more predictable results. If you want to propagate plants by collecting seeds, it's best to start with pure species plants rather than nursery hybrids. Pure species are easiest to obtain from specialty nurseries or online retailers.
When starting seed, sprinkle the seed on the surface of the soil in late fall or early spring, making sure not to cover the seed as they need light to germinate. You can also start seeds indoors a couple of months before you plan to transplant. Coral bells seeds take two to eight weeks to germinate.
Once established, harden off the plants for 10 days, then transplant the seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. You can plant container-grown coral bells any time after the danger of frost has passed. Keep them well-watered their first year—other than that, they shouldn't require more than some relief from the extreme heat and rich, well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bells
Although it's not typical to grow perennials such as coral bells in containers, it certainly can be done, and this plant does quite well when grown that way. Choose a container that has good drainage and a potting mix that drains freely. When grown in containers, keep the root crown slightly higher than the soil level. If you want to overwinter these plants in pots, they will need to be moved to a protected location to shield them from cold winter temperatures. During the winter months, withhold water and allow the plants to go dormant.6
While the spectacular foliage might tempt you to try growing coral bells as a houseplant, they do not lend themselves to this use. These woodland plants can do fine in outdoor containers where they receive a dormant period over winter, but they rarely are successful as permanent indoor houseplants.
Overwintering
In warmer climates, this plant often remains evergreen through the winter. Because the roots are shallow, coral bells can be prone to winter root heaving in colder climates. A light mulch over the plants can prevent this. In other regions, overwintering simply involves cleaning up plant debris to prevent fungi from overwintering.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coral bells is usually a fairly carefree plant, but it can be affected by various fungal diseases, including powdery mildew, rust, and bacterial leaf spot.7
Potential insect problems include weevils and foliar nematodes. The larvae of the black vine weevil can bore into the crowns and roots of coral bells in late summer or early fall, causing infected plants to wilt and droop.8 You should be able to see the larvae on the plant and remove them by hand and destroy them. If an infection persists, treat your plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil.
How to Get Coral Bells to Bloom
Sparse blooming is usually not terribly concerning with these plants, since it is the foliage color that is of greatest appeal. But the stems of airy, delicate red or pink flowers certainly do have ornamental merit, and if planted in good growing conditions, you can expect repeated blooms from late spring into fall. Avoid overfeeding these plants, which can hinder blossoming as it stimulates foliage development. And some varieties bred to be sun-lovers may not bloom well if they are planted in deep shade.
Common Problems With Coral Bells
Coral bells are generally quite easy to grow, but there are some common cultural problems you may encounter:
Scalded Leaves
Most varieties of coral bells are not keen about growing in full sun, and they may exhibit burned, scorched leaves if they get too much sun, especially in climates with hot summers. Giving plants extra water during hot spells can minimize this scorching.
Plants Die Out After a Few Years
It's sometimes disappointing when a thriving coral bells plant suddenly declines, but this is rather normal, as these are short-lived perennials that usually live only four or five years. You can prolong the lifespan by dividing root clumps every three or four years, which will provide new plants to continue the lineage.
Plants Lift Out of the Ground
Coral bells have shallow root systems with crowns that are slightly exposed. In cold climates, frost heaving can push them out of the ground entirely, which will require you to replant them. A layer of mulch applied just after the ground freezes may help prevent heaving due to repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
FAQ
How should I use coral bells in the landscape?
Coral bells make wonderful edging plants and put on a show when planted in groups. Their foliage is vibrant and saturated and is great for playing up the colors of nearby flowers in the garden—darker purple leaves can make yellow flowers glow, while butterscotch-colored leaves can bring out the tones of simple green leaves.
Are there any coral bells varieties that work well in hot climates?
The more heat-tolerant cultivars often have Heuchera villosa in their parentage, which is a notably heat-tolerant species. Gardeners as far south as zone 9 usually have good success with varieties based on this species. Two excellent cultivars known for their heat tolerance are ‘Caramel’ and ‘Citronelle’. H. villosa is a native plant in the southeastern U.S. and hardy to zone 7.9
How about cold-winter gardens—are there any varieties that work in zone 3?
Heuchera sanguinea and its direct cultivars are considered hardy to zone 3. But you will need to make sure of the parentage, as many nursery hybrids have other species among their parents, which are not as cold-hardy. To buy pure H. sanguinea plants, you may need to shop at a specialty nursery.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月20日
Coral aloe (Aloe striata) is a strikingly beautiful, hardy and easy-to-grow succulent.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月07日
The sweet floral scent of honeysuckle in the air is a sure tell that summer has arrived. The honeysuckle family (Lonicera spp.) includes 180 species of low-maintenance deciduous and evergreen shrubs or climbers with twining stems.1 Many have naturalized in the United States and some are native to specific regions of the country. If you plan to include this old time favorite in your landscape, be sure to do your homework. Other species of honeysuckle are highly invasive and prohibited in parts of the country. Check with your local cooperative extension to make sure the variety you choose can be planted in your region. The tubular or two-lipped showy honeysuckle flowers are easy for bees and hummingbirds to slip into. After the yellow, red, pink, purple, or white blooms fade, you'll find lot of juicy berries in the fall. Depending on the variety, honeysuckle grows hardy in USDA zones 4 through 10.
Common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) is also called European honeysuckle or woodbine. Native to Europe, North Africa and western Asia, it has naturalized in some areas of North America such as Nova Scotia, Ontario, New England and the Pacific Northwest. It is a deciduous shrub with a vine-like habit, growing 10 feet tall and occasionally to 20 feet tall. Leaves are ovate to obovate, about two inches long, appearing on the stems in pairs. Leaves are dark green above and blue-green underneath. Two shades of green appear in the center of the leaf, which has creamy white edges. New leaves emerge in spring and mature as smooth leaves by summer, becoming hot pink in autumn. Buds are pink. Colorful flowers open with ivory interiors and purple exteriors. Two-lipped flowers, each two inches long, bloom steadily in summer and more sporadically in autumn to frost, in three to five whorled terminal spikes that give way to glossy, red berries. Honeysuckle also has strong nocturnally scented flowers attracting large pollinating hawk moths that roam dense bushy and woodland areas.
How to Grow and Care for Rosemary
Botanical Name Lonicera periclymenum
Common Names Common Honeysuckle, European Honeysuckle, Woodbine
Plant Type Deciduous shrub with a vine-like growth habit
Mature Size 12 to 20 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Dappled sunlight
Soil Type Moist, well-drained soils
Soil pH Neutral; tolerates both acidic and alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Colors Crimson purple outside and yellow and white inside
Hardiness Zones 5-9, USDA
Native Area Europe, Northern Africa, Southwest Asia
Common Honeysuckle Care
Tie young vining honeysuckle to a vertical stake to support its growth. Establish the stake before planting to avoid disturbing the soil or roots.
If you plan to include common honeysuckle in your landscape, be sure to do your homework. Other species of honeysuckle are highly invasive and prohibited in parts of the country. Check with your local extension office to make sure the variety you choose can be planted in your region.
Light
Common honeysuckle prefers dappled sunlight, but it will grow in full sun to part shade. Give the plant a similar environment to its native habitat of scrub and woods. If possible, shade the roots and let the plant climb towards the sun.
Soil
Give common honeysuckle any fertile, rich, well-drained soil.
Water
Water newly planted honeysuckle consistently. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plant shows signs of vigorous growth. Once established, it is quite drought tolerant. Water only if summer droughts last two weeks or more, offering at least one inch of water per week. Adding about two inches of organic mulch around the plant's base will prevent water from evaporating.
Temperature and Humidity
Honeysuckles usually thrive best in cooler regions with cooler summer climates. Place in part afternoon shade where summers are especially hot.
Fertilizer
If planted in fertile soil, the honeysuckle will grow vigorously without any added fertilizer. If needed, encourage blooming by applying a low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring such as 2-10-10, 0-10-10 or 15-25-10. Too much nitrogen will encourage more growth in the leaves and not enough in the flowers. Such "flushes of foliage growth" could make the plant more susceptible to pests. Learn to read and understand garden fertilizer labels to give each plant exactly what it needs.
Pruning
Once established, most honeysuckle plants will grow vigorously. Prune your common honeysuckle as you would any shrub or vine, removing dead or damaged twigs and branches throughout the season but save any hard pruning for after bloom. Early-blooming vining varieties that bloom on last year's growth, like common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum), benefit from being cut back by one-third after the blooming period is over. If the vine gets out of control, cut it two feet above the ground.
Other Varieties
Early Dutch Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum 'Belgica' ) plants bear streaked, raspberry red flowers.
A popular woodbine (Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina') produces flowers that are dark red on the outside and yellow and white inside.
Berries Jubilee (Lonicera periclymenum 'Monul') have yellow flowers, giving fruit to bright red berries.
Propagating Common Honeysuckle
Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken for propagation in summer. Put the cuttings in a well-draining soil and wait for them to take root.
Common Pests and Diseases
While there are rarely any serious insect or disease issues, watch for honeysuckle aphids and scale. Leaf roller, dieback, and blights may also arise. Growing honeysuckle in regions with hot and humid summers could result in powdery mildew and leaf spots, which is why it's best to grow honeysuckle in cooler regions where it will thrive.
Common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) is also called European honeysuckle or woodbine. Native to Europe, North Africa and western Asia, it has naturalized in some areas of North America such as Nova Scotia, Ontario, New England and the Pacific Northwest. It is a deciduous shrub with a vine-like habit, growing 10 feet tall and occasionally to 20 feet tall. Leaves are ovate to obovate, about two inches long, appearing on the stems in pairs. Leaves are dark green above and blue-green underneath. Two shades of green appear in the center of the leaf, which has creamy white edges. New leaves emerge in spring and mature as smooth leaves by summer, becoming hot pink in autumn. Buds are pink. Colorful flowers open with ivory interiors and purple exteriors. Two-lipped flowers, each two inches long, bloom steadily in summer and more sporadically in autumn to frost, in three to five whorled terminal spikes that give way to glossy, red berries. Honeysuckle also has strong nocturnally scented flowers attracting large pollinating hawk moths that roam dense bushy and woodland areas.
How to Grow and Care for Rosemary
Botanical Name Lonicera periclymenum
Common Names Common Honeysuckle, European Honeysuckle, Woodbine
Plant Type Deciduous shrub with a vine-like growth habit
Mature Size 12 to 20 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Dappled sunlight
Soil Type Moist, well-drained soils
Soil pH Neutral; tolerates both acidic and alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Flower Colors Crimson purple outside and yellow and white inside
Hardiness Zones 5-9, USDA
Native Area Europe, Northern Africa, Southwest Asia
Common Honeysuckle Care
Tie young vining honeysuckle to a vertical stake to support its growth. Establish the stake before planting to avoid disturbing the soil or roots.
If you plan to include common honeysuckle in your landscape, be sure to do your homework. Other species of honeysuckle are highly invasive and prohibited in parts of the country. Check with your local extension office to make sure the variety you choose can be planted in your region.
Light
Common honeysuckle prefers dappled sunlight, but it will grow in full sun to part shade. Give the plant a similar environment to its native habitat of scrub and woods. If possible, shade the roots and let the plant climb towards the sun.
Soil
Give common honeysuckle any fertile, rich, well-drained soil.
Water
Water newly planted honeysuckle consistently. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plant shows signs of vigorous growth. Once established, it is quite drought tolerant. Water only if summer droughts last two weeks or more, offering at least one inch of water per week. Adding about two inches of organic mulch around the plant's base will prevent water from evaporating.
Temperature and Humidity
Honeysuckles usually thrive best in cooler regions with cooler summer climates. Place in part afternoon shade where summers are especially hot.
Fertilizer
If planted in fertile soil, the honeysuckle will grow vigorously without any added fertilizer. If needed, encourage blooming by applying a low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring such as 2-10-10, 0-10-10 or 15-25-10. Too much nitrogen will encourage more growth in the leaves and not enough in the flowers. Such "flushes of foliage growth" could make the plant more susceptible to pests. Learn to read and understand garden fertilizer labels to give each plant exactly what it needs.
Pruning
Once established, most honeysuckle plants will grow vigorously. Prune your common honeysuckle as you would any shrub or vine, removing dead or damaged twigs and branches throughout the season but save any hard pruning for after bloom. Early-blooming vining varieties that bloom on last year's growth, like common honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum), benefit from being cut back by one-third after the blooming period is over. If the vine gets out of control, cut it two feet above the ground.
Other Varieties
Early Dutch Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum 'Belgica' ) plants bear streaked, raspberry red flowers.
A popular woodbine (Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina') produces flowers that are dark red on the outside and yellow and white inside.
Berries Jubilee (Lonicera periclymenum 'Monul') have yellow flowers, giving fruit to bright red berries.
Propagating Common Honeysuckle
Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken for propagation in summer. Put the cuttings in a well-draining soil and wait for them to take root.
Common Pests and Diseases
While there are rarely any serious insect or disease issues, watch for honeysuckle aphids and scale. Leaf roller, dieback, and blights may also arise. Growing honeysuckle in regions with hot and humid summers could result in powdery mildew and leaf spots, which is why it's best to grow honeysuckle in cooler regions where it will thrive.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月11日
Climbing hydrangea (hydrangea anomala petiolaris) provides all of the beauty of a traditional hydrangea bush, but in a trailing variety used to add visual interest to walls or fences. Native to Asia, this hydrangea species yields flowering deciduous vines and is best planted or transplanted in the late spring. A true climber, hydrangea anomala petiolaris contains holdfasts (suckers) on its branches, allowing it to scale structures without the use of a trellis.
Climbing hydrangea plants grow very slowly and may take up to three to five years just to reach the flowering stage. That said, once the plant is established, this eye-catching centerpiece can reach a height of 50 feet or more at maturity, and produce fragrant, lacy white flowers all summer long. However, be careful where you plant it, as all parts of hydrangea plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.1
Common Name Climbing hydrangea
Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Family Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 30 to 50 ft. tall, 5 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4–8 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats1
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Hydrangea vines are often trained to grow up the side of houses, fences, pergolas, or trellises, or over the top of a garden arbor. Because the vines grow to become large and heavy, it's important to make sure that the host structure can support the plant's weight, and that you prune it seasonally.
Climbing hydrangea can also be maintained in shrub form or used as a ground cover, as it takes root wherever the suckers make contact with the ground. Cultivating the plant in this way makes for a decorative garden floor and also cuts down on weed growth.
Light
Climbing hydrangea grows best in full sun to part shade. However, unlike other flowering vines, this variety can tolerate quite a bit of shade, especially in hot climates where they actually prefer at least partial (or even full) shade at some point in the day. In sunny regions, make sure your plant is consistently and adequately watered. One note: Any hydrangea exposed to full sun will bloom more vibrantly and fully than one that experiences a lot of shade.
Soil
Plant your climbing hydrangea in garden beds that contain rich, moist soil with good drainage. Depleted beds may need amending with a nutrient-dense compost before planting or transplanting. Climbing hydrangea isn't particular about its soil pH level but will grow and bloom best in a mixture that is slightly acidic in nature. In order to help maintain moisture in the soil (and to curb overwatering), maintain a 3-inch layer of mulch around the root zone seasonally.
Water
Similar to other hydrangea plants, climbing hydrangea likes its soil consistently moist. In fact, the Greek root hydr- in the name refers to "water," while angeon comes from the Greek word "vessel." The plant needs to receive at least one inch of water weekly (either by rain or traditional watering methods), and can sometimes require more if the weather is especially hot or dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Climbing hydrangea plants do well in temperate climates, but they don't like hot and humid conditions. The plant can be damaged easily by intense sun and prefers daytime temperatures that hover around 70 F, and night temperatures around 60 F. Additionally, climbing hydrangea vines will only set buds if they experience at least six weeks of temperatures below 65 F. Lastly, a sudden frost can damage buds, impeding your plant's flowering the following year.
Fertilizer
Climbing hydrangeas are considered "low maintenance" when it comes to fertilizing. In fact, you can usually just let your plant be for the first three years. After that, fertilize it in the spring before the leaves begin to bud, only if you are noticing issues with yellowing leaves. If so, use a 10-10-10 product at just below the suggested amount on the label. Fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will also help create beautiful blooms. In the late summer or fall, make sure to spread a 1-inch layer of compost around your plant, topped with an inch or two of mulch.
Types of Climbing Hydrangea
The Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is the most common variety of climbing hydrangea. It yields white flowers and has excellent frost and heat tolerance.
The Miranda variety has variegated leaves that are part yellow and part green. One of the more decorative varieties, Mirandas can grow up to 50 feet tall and 6 feet wide.
The Silver Lining climbing hydrangea produces silvery-grey variegated leaves. This variety is finicky, however, preferring partial shade over full sun or full shade.
The Flying Saucer variety is known for its inflorescences that resemble flying saucers. These showy white blooms look fabulous against their backdrop of bright green foliage.
Pruning
Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom, but it's worth the wait for the years of enjoyment they bring. Start out with the largest plants possible—of course, you will pay extra at the garden center for larger plants—and prune only the dead and damaged branches each year, in late spring or early summer. Once the plant is established, climbing hydrangea grows vigorously and may need summer pruning or shaping to your liking.
Cutting and drying hydrangea flowerheads is a favorite pastime for seasoned gardeners. Once dry, climbing hydrangea flowers turn reddish-brown, and the heads can be used in crafts, dried bouquets, or incorporated into a dried arrangement for the home.
Propagating Climbing Hydrangea
Propagate climbing hydrangea in May or June by taking a cutting from the stem of an established plant. Propagating an already thriving hydrangea offers a way to shape and prune your existing garden treasure, while also assuring any additional plants will maintain the same look. Climbing hydrangea is simple to propagate and transplant with a few trusty supplies. Here’s how:
Gather your sharp garden shears, an alcohol wipe, potting soil, rooting powder, a potting tray, clear plastic wrap, small plant stakes, and a spray bottle.
Wipe your shear blades with alcohol. Select a healthy green stem without buds. Cut a stem 3 to 5 inches long, making your cut 2 inches below the leaf node and high enough on the stem so that you don't encounter the woody part.
Use your shears to carefully remove all but the top two leaves on the cutting. If you damage the stem, discard it and start over with another cutting.
Prepare a potting tray with potting soil that contains a mixture of loam and perlite.
Dip the end of your cutting in your rooting powder and stick it into a prepared hole in the moist soil.
Cover your planting with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, and use plant stakes to support it. Place your tray in an area that receives low light and maintains a stable temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Mist the soil regularly with a spray bottle.
In one month, your cutting should begin to root. At this point, expose it to the morning sun for a few weeks by taking it outside, and then bringing it back in.
Plant your cutting in your garden bed in the spring, once temperatures have warmed.
How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed
Growing climbing hydrangea from seed involves filling a pot with soil and placing the seeds on top (not buried beneath). Keep the soil moist and place your pot in a sunny window. In approximately 14 days, your seeds will germinate. When you begin to see shoots, it's safe to transplant your seedling into your garden bed when spring temperatures become warm.
Overwintering
Make sure to water your climbing hydrangea up until the bitter end of the season. These plants need a good drenching before going to sleep for winter. Once the ground has frozen, dress the base of the plant with manure or another organic compost mixture, as this will provide the plant with nutrients come spring. (In warmer zones, you can add compost when the weather starts to cool.) Next, apply a substantial layer of hardy mulch to keep the plant's roots warm. Decorative mulch will work, as will straw, hay, or fallen leaves.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Climbing hydrangea faces similar issues to those of traditional hydrangea plants. Because of the density of the foliage and blooms, this variety can become afflicted with mildew and leaf spot. As for pests, you may spot signs of spider mites, scale, and aphids, all of which can be treated with a mild insecticide or, a non-toxic alternative, neem oil.
How to Get Climbing Hydrangea to Bloom
Climbing hydrangea is an exercise in patience, as the foliage will grow with abundance long before the plant flowers. Once established, assure summer blooms by pruning your hydrangea in late June or July, as new blooms will develop on the prior year's branches. Cutting in the fall, winter, or spring may cause you to snip off buds before they would otherwise flower.
Common Problems With Climbing Hydrangea
Once a mature vine has covered a surface, cracks in the surface can develop and become difficult to see or access for repairs. Also, the weight of the vines may loosen surfaces like shingles, siding, and clapboard, and you won't be able to access the surface to paint it without massive pruning. Lastly, vines on a house may also grow into areas like gutters, making regular maintenance a problem. Sufficient pruning can control this, but it can be difficult to do so on a multistory home.
FAQ
How long can climbing hydrangea live?
Climbing hydrangea can live for up to five years in the right conditions and with proper care, like ample watering, afternoon shade, and mid-summer pruning.
What is the difference between climbing hydrangeas and false hydrangea vine?
Climbing hydrangea yields only white and off-white flowers, whereas false hydrangea vine comes in many different colors. Also, climbing hydrangea has four-petaled flowers dispersed around non-showy reproductive structures. False hydrangea vine has single sail-like bracts for flowers, instead.
Why is climbing hydrangea considered a four-season plant?
Climbing hydrangea looks great in all four seasons. In the spring, the bright green foliage climbs walls and trellises. In the summer, abundant lacy blooms proliferate. In the fall, the glossy leaves turn yellow with the change of seasons. And in the winter, the shedding bark adds texture to barren gardens.
Climbing hydrangea plants grow very slowly and may take up to three to five years just to reach the flowering stage. That said, once the plant is established, this eye-catching centerpiece can reach a height of 50 feet or more at maturity, and produce fragrant, lacy white flowers all summer long. However, be careful where you plant it, as all parts of hydrangea plants are toxic to dogs, cats, and horses.1
Common Name Climbing hydrangea
Botanical Name Hydrangea anomala petiolaris
Family Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type Vine
Mature Size 30 to 50 ft. tall, 5 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist, but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4–8 (USDA)
Native Areas Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats1
Climbing Hydrangea Care
Hydrangea vines are often trained to grow up the side of houses, fences, pergolas, or trellises, or over the top of a garden arbor. Because the vines grow to become large and heavy, it's important to make sure that the host structure can support the plant's weight, and that you prune it seasonally.
Climbing hydrangea can also be maintained in shrub form or used as a ground cover, as it takes root wherever the suckers make contact with the ground. Cultivating the plant in this way makes for a decorative garden floor and also cuts down on weed growth.
Light
Climbing hydrangea grows best in full sun to part shade. However, unlike other flowering vines, this variety can tolerate quite a bit of shade, especially in hot climates where they actually prefer at least partial (or even full) shade at some point in the day. In sunny regions, make sure your plant is consistently and adequately watered. One note: Any hydrangea exposed to full sun will bloom more vibrantly and fully than one that experiences a lot of shade.
Soil
Plant your climbing hydrangea in garden beds that contain rich, moist soil with good drainage. Depleted beds may need amending with a nutrient-dense compost before planting or transplanting. Climbing hydrangea isn't particular about its soil pH level but will grow and bloom best in a mixture that is slightly acidic in nature. In order to help maintain moisture in the soil (and to curb overwatering), maintain a 3-inch layer of mulch around the root zone seasonally.
Water
Similar to other hydrangea plants, climbing hydrangea likes its soil consistently moist. In fact, the Greek root hydr- in the name refers to "water," while angeon comes from the Greek word "vessel." The plant needs to receive at least one inch of water weekly (either by rain or traditional watering methods), and can sometimes require more if the weather is especially hot or dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Climbing hydrangea plants do well in temperate climates, but they don't like hot and humid conditions. The plant can be damaged easily by intense sun and prefers daytime temperatures that hover around 70 F, and night temperatures around 60 F. Additionally, climbing hydrangea vines will only set buds if they experience at least six weeks of temperatures below 65 F. Lastly, a sudden frost can damage buds, impeding your plant's flowering the following year.
Fertilizer
Climbing hydrangeas are considered "low maintenance" when it comes to fertilizing. In fact, you can usually just let your plant be for the first three years. After that, fertilize it in the spring before the leaves begin to bud, only if you are noticing issues with yellowing leaves. If so, use a 10-10-10 product at just below the suggested amount on the label. Fertilizer with a high phosphorous count will also help create beautiful blooms. In the late summer or fall, make sure to spread a 1-inch layer of compost around your plant, topped with an inch or two of mulch.
Types of Climbing Hydrangea
The Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris is the most common variety of climbing hydrangea. It yields white flowers and has excellent frost and heat tolerance.
The Miranda variety has variegated leaves that are part yellow and part green. One of the more decorative varieties, Mirandas can grow up to 50 feet tall and 6 feet wide.
The Silver Lining climbing hydrangea produces silvery-grey variegated leaves. This variety is finicky, however, preferring partial shade over full sun or full shade.
The Flying Saucer variety is known for its inflorescences that resemble flying saucers. These showy white blooms look fabulous against their backdrop of bright green foliage.
Pruning
Newly planted climbing hydrangea vines are slow to grow and slow to bloom, but it's worth the wait for the years of enjoyment they bring. Start out with the largest plants possible—of course, you will pay extra at the garden center for larger plants—and prune only the dead and damaged branches each year, in late spring or early summer. Once the plant is established, climbing hydrangea grows vigorously and may need summer pruning or shaping to your liking.
Cutting and drying hydrangea flowerheads is a favorite pastime for seasoned gardeners. Once dry, climbing hydrangea flowers turn reddish-brown, and the heads can be used in crafts, dried bouquets, or incorporated into a dried arrangement for the home.
Propagating Climbing Hydrangea
Propagate climbing hydrangea in May or June by taking a cutting from the stem of an established plant. Propagating an already thriving hydrangea offers a way to shape and prune your existing garden treasure, while also assuring any additional plants will maintain the same look. Climbing hydrangea is simple to propagate and transplant with a few trusty supplies. Here’s how:
Gather your sharp garden shears, an alcohol wipe, potting soil, rooting powder, a potting tray, clear plastic wrap, small plant stakes, and a spray bottle.
Wipe your shear blades with alcohol. Select a healthy green stem without buds. Cut a stem 3 to 5 inches long, making your cut 2 inches below the leaf node and high enough on the stem so that you don't encounter the woody part.
Use your shears to carefully remove all but the top two leaves on the cutting. If you damage the stem, discard it and start over with another cutting.
Prepare a potting tray with potting soil that contains a mixture of loam and perlite.
Dip the end of your cutting in your rooting powder and stick it into a prepared hole in the moist soil.
Cover your planting with plastic wrap or a plastic bag, and use plant stakes to support it. Place your tray in an area that receives low light and maintains a stable temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Mist the soil regularly with a spray bottle.
In one month, your cutting should begin to root. At this point, expose it to the morning sun for a few weeks by taking it outside, and then bringing it back in.
Plant your cutting in your garden bed in the spring, once temperatures have warmed.
How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea From Seed
Growing climbing hydrangea from seed involves filling a pot with soil and placing the seeds on top (not buried beneath). Keep the soil moist and place your pot in a sunny window. In approximately 14 days, your seeds will germinate. When you begin to see shoots, it's safe to transplant your seedling into your garden bed when spring temperatures become warm.
Overwintering
Make sure to water your climbing hydrangea up until the bitter end of the season. These plants need a good drenching before going to sleep for winter. Once the ground has frozen, dress the base of the plant with manure or another organic compost mixture, as this will provide the plant with nutrients come spring. (In warmer zones, you can add compost when the weather starts to cool.) Next, apply a substantial layer of hardy mulch to keep the plant's roots warm. Decorative mulch will work, as will straw, hay, or fallen leaves.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Climbing hydrangea faces similar issues to those of traditional hydrangea plants. Because of the density of the foliage and blooms, this variety can become afflicted with mildew and leaf spot. As for pests, you may spot signs of spider mites, scale, and aphids, all of which can be treated with a mild insecticide or, a non-toxic alternative, neem oil.
How to Get Climbing Hydrangea to Bloom
Climbing hydrangea is an exercise in patience, as the foliage will grow with abundance long before the plant flowers. Once established, assure summer blooms by pruning your hydrangea in late June or July, as new blooms will develop on the prior year's branches. Cutting in the fall, winter, or spring may cause you to snip off buds before they would otherwise flower.
Common Problems With Climbing Hydrangea
Once a mature vine has covered a surface, cracks in the surface can develop and become difficult to see or access for repairs. Also, the weight of the vines may loosen surfaces like shingles, siding, and clapboard, and you won't be able to access the surface to paint it without massive pruning. Lastly, vines on a house may also grow into areas like gutters, making regular maintenance a problem. Sufficient pruning can control this, but it can be difficult to do so on a multistory home.
FAQ
How long can climbing hydrangea live?
Climbing hydrangea can live for up to five years in the right conditions and with proper care, like ample watering, afternoon shade, and mid-summer pruning.
What is the difference between climbing hydrangeas and false hydrangea vine?
Climbing hydrangea yields only white and off-white flowers, whereas false hydrangea vine comes in many different colors. Also, climbing hydrangea has four-petaled flowers dispersed around non-showy reproductive structures. False hydrangea vine has single sail-like bracts for flowers, instead.
Why is climbing hydrangea considered a four-season plant?
Climbing hydrangea looks great in all four seasons. In the spring, the bright green foliage climbs walls and trellises. In the summer, abundant lacy blooms proliferate. In the fall, the glossy leaves turn yellow with the change of seasons. And in the winter, the shedding bark adds texture to barren gardens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月07日
Cineraria is a hybrid plant, a cross between Pericallis cruenta and P. lanata, species that are native to the Azores and Canary Island. Cineraria is a tender perennial, hardy in zones 9 to 11, but it is usually grown as an annual or short-lived seasonal houseplant. Known for a wide range of colors and long-lasting blooms, Cineraria comes in vibrant shades of pink, red, purple, blue, and many bi-colors. Cineraria is a mound-forming plant with large leaves that becomes covered with blossoms during its blooming season. It prefers cool weather, so as a garden plant it is usually grown for spring blossoms, then removed from the garden in favor of summer-blooming annuals after the bloom period is over. Many gardeners prefer to use them for container culture rather than as in-ground bedding plants.
As outdoor plants, cineraria plants are usually planted from nursery starts in the spring, which have been commercially grown to provide cool-season spring blooming. But these plants bloom about four months after seed germination, so it's possible to dictate the bloom period by carefully selecting the time when you sow seeds. Sowing in late summer, for example, can give indoor flowering plants for Christmas.
Common Name Cineraria, Florist's cineraria
Botanical Name Pericallis × hybrida
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Tender perennial, usually grown as annual
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Partial to full shade
Soil Type Moist but well-draining
Soil pH Acidic (5.5–6.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer; blossoms 16 to 18 weeks after seed germination
Flower Color Various (no yellow)
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Areas Nursery hybrid; parent species are from the Azores and Canary Islands
Cineraria Care
The flamboyant colors of cineraria, as well their versatile daisy shape, have made them increasingly popular in the United States in recent years as a decorative annual. But if you happen to live in a very warm zone (USDA 9 to 11) you can try growing them as perennials. As an annual, they hold their color for a decent period of time, so make sure they stay evenly moist and deadhead them continually to encourage new buds, and you'll have weeks of glorious colorful blooms from spring through summer.
Light
Cineraria will do best in filtered sunlight or partial shade conditions and it resents full sunlight. If grown as a short-lived indoor plant, however, it likes more light.
Soil
Cineraria like a rich, moist, slightly acidic soil that has good drainage. Amendments such as peat moss and coffee grounds can help create good coil conditions for this somewhat fussy plant. When grown indoors, a standard potting mix works well, as it contains a high percentage of peat which ensures an acidic pH.
Water
Cineraria needs constant moisture but it still needs to breathe. Water well and frequently at the base of the plant, checking the soil to make sure it feels moist but not soggy. Steady watering in hot weather is a must. But at the same time, cineraria doesn't like constantly soggy soil, which can encourage root and crown rot diseases. Thus, it's critical that frequent watering is paired with well-draining soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Cineraria is temperamental about temperature. The preferred temp is between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. If temps dip below 35 degrees at night, the plants will die, and if they go above 80 degrees, they'll stop blooming. In the heat of summer, make sure cineraria plants stay in shade; it may be necessary to bring potted plants indoors during very hot days.
When grown indoors, cineraria plants like a cool environment; they will bloom longer with
daytime temperatures of about 65 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temps of 50 to 55 degrees.
These flowers thrive in an environment that is humid yet not quite tropical. Even if your location is not consistently humid, you can approximate the climate needs of this plant by keeping the soil around it consistently moist. However, avoid making the ground too soggy as this can cause root rot. The best way to provide this humidity for both indoor and outdoor plantings is to create a pebble tray. Spread a layer of pebbles or pea gravel on a low dish or tray and place it beneath the container. Keep filled with water to up to a 1/2 inch in depth (that may mean refreshing it daily if your house has dry air). As that water evaporates it will create an evenly humid atmosphere around the plant. Misting is not recommended as it may overwhelm the flower petals.
Fertilizer
Feed cineraria plants with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every two weeks, beginning at the point where flower buds appear. These plants have a steady appetite, but don't want to be gorged with fertilizer.
Types of Cineraria
Cineraria is usually offered in various named color mixes. Some popular ones include the 'Senetti' mix, which includes blue, light blue, magenta, pink, and bicolors; 'Cruenta Amigo' mix, including blue, red, purple, magenta, and white flowers, often with white eyes; 'Satellite Mix', featuring ground-hugging 8-inch plants; and the 'Early Perfection' series, with compact 8- to 10-inch plants ideal for small pots.
Pruning
Deadheading spent flowers will both keep the plants looking tidy and extend the bloom season by prompting the plant to produce additional flower buds. After flowering is complete, these plants are usually pulled out and replaced with summer-flowering annuals.
Propagating Cineraria
Cineraria is usually propagated from seed, but you can also propagate new plants for indoor winter growing by taking stem cuttings in fall:
Cut a 4- to 6-inch stem tip, preferably one without flowers. Remove all but the top leaves.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then plant it in a small pot filled with ordinary potting soil.
Moisten the soil and place the planted cutting in a large plastic bag, taking care that the plastic does not touch the leaves.
Place the cutting in a cool location with good indirect light. Periodically check the cutting to see if roots have formed (tug on the stem; with a rooted cutting you'll be able to feel resistance).
When roots have formed, remove the plastic bag and continue to grow the cutting in a relatively cool location with bright light but out of the direct sun. Propagated in this manner, the new plant should flower within about three months.
How to Grow Cineraria From Seed
Popular in the commercial trade as a cut flower, cineraria is most commonly propagated by seed. Plant the seeds in small pots or flat trays containing commercial seed-starter mix, lightly pressing the seeds into the soil. Do not cover them, as they need light to germinate. Keep the seeds moist; germination generally takes 14 to 21 days. As seedings develop their true leaves, they can be transplanted into individual pots to continue growing. The plants will bloom 16 to 18 weeks after seed germination.
If grown as garden perennials, these plants will readily reseed themselves and colonize. If you wish to prevent this, deadhead the flowers before the seeds mature.
Potting and Repotting Cineraria
When grown in containers, cineraria does well in an ordinary commercial potting mix with a high peat content. For best bloom, they prefer to be somewhat root-bound, so smallish containers with good drainage are usually sufficient.
These are not easy plants to grow indoors as houseplants, as they require careful control of temperatures (cool) and humidity (high). Give indoor potted plants more light than is required for outdoor plants.
Overwintering
Once they flower, cineraria is reluctant to bloom again, so the plants are often removed from the garden once the flowering is complete.
If you live in a climate where cineraria can be grown as garden perennials, you may want to leave the plants in place so that they will self-seed and create new volunteer plants.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cineraria is subject to quite a number of plant pests and diseases. Indoor plants are often more susceptible than outdoor garden plants.
Aphids, thrips, spider mites, white fly and leaf miners can all feast on cineraria. The best treatment is a spray with a horticultural oil such as neem oil, or a chemical pesticide.
Disease issues include powdery mildew, gray mold, fungal rot of the crown or roots, and various plant viruses. Keeping soil moisture levels and humidity levels correct will prevent many disease problems, but badly affected plants may need to be removed.
How to Get Cineraria to Bloom
Failure to bloom can usually be traced to a lack of water or nutrients. Cineraria is a relatively demanding plant that needs a half-strength feeding every two weeks. Frequent light feeding is the key to good flowering. These plants also require soil that is consistently moist but not soggy.
Common Problems With Cineraria
The trickiest part of growing cineraria is getting the moisture levels right. Too much water induces root or crown rot, while too little water will prevent the profuse blooming that these plants are famous for. They are also quite sensitive to temperature, preferring coolish conditions and often succumbing when conditions are too warm. It's best not to grow cineraria at all if you live in very hot climate, and excessively dry or rainy conditions are also problematic.
FAQ
How was cineraria developed?
These, cheery, colorful daisy-like flowers are in the Asteraceae (aster) family, which also includes sunflowers, daisies, strawflowers and ageratum. The parent species (Pericallis cruenta and P. lanata) were first discovered by horticulturists from the British Royal Gardens in 1777, growing in the Azores and Canary Islands on cool ocean cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. The varieties now popular in the trade are derived from the hybrid cross of these two species.
How can I use this plant in the landscape?
Cineraria is most often used as an annual, either for garden beds or more often as a container plant for patios, decks, or window boxes, or as a short-lived indoor flowering plant. There is nothing subtle about cineraria, so they are popular whenever you want to make a bold color statement. The cobalt blue shades are especially popular in summer to create red, white, and blue arrangements for Independence Day.
How long does Cineraria live?
Even when it can be grown as perennial in warm climates, cineraria does not readily rebloom after flowering, so in most areas, this short-lived perennial is simply discarded after the flowering is complete.
How do I force cineraria into winter blooming as a houseplant?
Cineraria is a seasonal bloomer that generally flowers 16 to 18 weeks after seeds germinate and sprout. Thus, it's easy enough to dictate the bloom period by choosing the proper time to plant the seeds. For Christmas bloom, for example, you should plant seeds in late August to early September. Remember, though, that it's tricky to provide the proper cool and humid conditions when growing this plant indoors. This is why many people seeking winter-blooming plants simply buy them in season from a houseplant supplier.
As outdoor plants, cineraria plants are usually planted from nursery starts in the spring, which have been commercially grown to provide cool-season spring blooming. But these plants bloom about four months after seed germination, so it's possible to dictate the bloom period by carefully selecting the time when you sow seeds. Sowing in late summer, for example, can give indoor flowering plants for Christmas.
Common Name Cineraria, Florist's cineraria
Botanical Name Pericallis × hybrida
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Tender perennial, usually grown as annual
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Partial to full shade
Soil Type Moist but well-draining
Soil pH Acidic (5.5–6.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer; blossoms 16 to 18 weeks after seed germination
Flower Color Various (no yellow)
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Areas Nursery hybrid; parent species are from the Azores and Canary Islands
Cineraria Care
The flamboyant colors of cineraria, as well their versatile daisy shape, have made them increasingly popular in the United States in recent years as a decorative annual. But if you happen to live in a very warm zone (USDA 9 to 11) you can try growing them as perennials. As an annual, they hold their color for a decent period of time, so make sure they stay evenly moist and deadhead them continually to encourage new buds, and you'll have weeks of glorious colorful blooms from spring through summer.
Light
Cineraria will do best in filtered sunlight or partial shade conditions and it resents full sunlight. If grown as a short-lived indoor plant, however, it likes more light.
Soil
Cineraria like a rich, moist, slightly acidic soil that has good drainage. Amendments such as peat moss and coffee grounds can help create good coil conditions for this somewhat fussy plant. When grown indoors, a standard potting mix works well, as it contains a high percentage of peat which ensures an acidic pH.
Water
Cineraria needs constant moisture but it still needs to breathe. Water well and frequently at the base of the plant, checking the soil to make sure it feels moist but not soggy. Steady watering in hot weather is a must. But at the same time, cineraria doesn't like constantly soggy soil, which can encourage root and crown rot diseases. Thus, it's critical that frequent watering is paired with well-draining soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Cineraria is temperamental about temperature. The preferred temp is between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. If temps dip below 35 degrees at night, the plants will die, and if they go above 80 degrees, they'll stop blooming. In the heat of summer, make sure cineraria plants stay in shade; it may be necessary to bring potted plants indoors during very hot days.
When grown indoors, cineraria plants like a cool environment; they will bloom longer with
daytime temperatures of about 65 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temps of 50 to 55 degrees.
These flowers thrive in an environment that is humid yet not quite tropical. Even if your location is not consistently humid, you can approximate the climate needs of this plant by keeping the soil around it consistently moist. However, avoid making the ground too soggy as this can cause root rot. The best way to provide this humidity for both indoor and outdoor plantings is to create a pebble tray. Spread a layer of pebbles or pea gravel on a low dish or tray and place it beneath the container. Keep filled with water to up to a 1/2 inch in depth (that may mean refreshing it daily if your house has dry air). As that water evaporates it will create an evenly humid atmosphere around the plant. Misting is not recommended as it may overwhelm the flower petals.
Fertilizer
Feed cineraria plants with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every two weeks, beginning at the point where flower buds appear. These plants have a steady appetite, but don't want to be gorged with fertilizer.
Types of Cineraria
Cineraria is usually offered in various named color mixes. Some popular ones include the 'Senetti' mix, which includes blue, light blue, magenta, pink, and bicolors; 'Cruenta Amigo' mix, including blue, red, purple, magenta, and white flowers, often with white eyes; 'Satellite Mix', featuring ground-hugging 8-inch plants; and the 'Early Perfection' series, with compact 8- to 10-inch plants ideal for small pots.
Pruning
Deadheading spent flowers will both keep the plants looking tidy and extend the bloom season by prompting the plant to produce additional flower buds. After flowering is complete, these plants are usually pulled out and replaced with summer-flowering annuals.
Propagating Cineraria
Cineraria is usually propagated from seed, but you can also propagate new plants for indoor winter growing by taking stem cuttings in fall:
Cut a 4- to 6-inch stem tip, preferably one without flowers. Remove all but the top leaves.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then plant it in a small pot filled with ordinary potting soil.
Moisten the soil and place the planted cutting in a large plastic bag, taking care that the plastic does not touch the leaves.
Place the cutting in a cool location with good indirect light. Periodically check the cutting to see if roots have formed (tug on the stem; with a rooted cutting you'll be able to feel resistance).
When roots have formed, remove the plastic bag and continue to grow the cutting in a relatively cool location with bright light but out of the direct sun. Propagated in this manner, the new plant should flower within about three months.
How to Grow Cineraria From Seed
Popular in the commercial trade as a cut flower, cineraria is most commonly propagated by seed. Plant the seeds in small pots or flat trays containing commercial seed-starter mix, lightly pressing the seeds into the soil. Do not cover them, as they need light to germinate. Keep the seeds moist; germination generally takes 14 to 21 days. As seedings develop their true leaves, they can be transplanted into individual pots to continue growing. The plants will bloom 16 to 18 weeks after seed germination.
If grown as garden perennials, these plants will readily reseed themselves and colonize. If you wish to prevent this, deadhead the flowers before the seeds mature.
Potting and Repotting Cineraria
When grown in containers, cineraria does well in an ordinary commercial potting mix with a high peat content. For best bloom, they prefer to be somewhat root-bound, so smallish containers with good drainage are usually sufficient.
These are not easy plants to grow indoors as houseplants, as they require careful control of temperatures (cool) and humidity (high). Give indoor potted plants more light than is required for outdoor plants.
Overwintering
Once they flower, cineraria is reluctant to bloom again, so the plants are often removed from the garden once the flowering is complete.
If you live in a climate where cineraria can be grown as garden perennials, you may want to leave the plants in place so that they will self-seed and create new volunteer plants.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cineraria is subject to quite a number of plant pests and diseases. Indoor plants are often more susceptible than outdoor garden plants.
Aphids, thrips, spider mites, white fly and leaf miners can all feast on cineraria. The best treatment is a spray with a horticultural oil such as neem oil, or a chemical pesticide.
Disease issues include powdery mildew, gray mold, fungal rot of the crown or roots, and various plant viruses. Keeping soil moisture levels and humidity levels correct will prevent many disease problems, but badly affected plants may need to be removed.
How to Get Cineraria to Bloom
Failure to bloom can usually be traced to a lack of water or nutrients. Cineraria is a relatively demanding plant that needs a half-strength feeding every two weeks. Frequent light feeding is the key to good flowering. These plants also require soil that is consistently moist but not soggy.
Common Problems With Cineraria
The trickiest part of growing cineraria is getting the moisture levels right. Too much water induces root or crown rot, while too little water will prevent the profuse blooming that these plants are famous for. They are also quite sensitive to temperature, preferring coolish conditions and often succumbing when conditions are too warm. It's best not to grow cineraria at all if you live in very hot climate, and excessively dry or rainy conditions are also problematic.
FAQ
How was cineraria developed?
These, cheery, colorful daisy-like flowers are in the Asteraceae (aster) family, which also includes sunflowers, daisies, strawflowers and ageratum. The parent species (Pericallis cruenta and P. lanata) were first discovered by horticulturists from the British Royal Gardens in 1777, growing in the Azores and Canary Islands on cool ocean cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. The varieties now popular in the trade are derived from the hybrid cross of these two species.
How can I use this plant in the landscape?
Cineraria is most often used as an annual, either for garden beds or more often as a container plant for patios, decks, or window boxes, or as a short-lived indoor flowering plant. There is nothing subtle about cineraria, so they are popular whenever you want to make a bold color statement. The cobalt blue shades are especially popular in summer to create red, white, and blue arrangements for Independence Day.
How long does Cineraria live?
Even when it can be grown as perennial in warm climates, cineraria does not readily rebloom after flowering, so in most areas, this short-lived perennial is simply discarded after the flowering is complete.
How do I force cineraria into winter blooming as a houseplant?
Cineraria is a seasonal bloomer that generally flowers 16 to 18 weeks after seeds germinate and sprout. Thus, it's easy enough to dictate the bloom period by choosing the proper time to plant the seeds. For Christmas bloom, for example, you should plant seeds in late August to early September. Remember, though, that it's tricky to provide the proper cool and humid conditions when growing this plant indoors. This is why many people seeking winter-blooming plants simply buy them in season from a houseplant supplier.
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Miss Chen
2022年03月20日
The group of edible plants labeled hot peppers includes a small number of species and cultivars within the Capsicum genus. Most hot peppers are only slight genetic variations of the sweet bell peppers found in many gardens. Pepper plants are in the Solanaceae (nightshade) family that also includes tomatoes, eggplants, and potatoes. So-called "hot peppers" are not a botanical classification, but rather a group of pepper varieties grouped together by shape and/or heat intensity.
When a man named Wilbur Scoville first devised a means to test the heat of a pepper in 1912, his hottest entry then came in at 20,000 units. At the time, this seemed plenty hot when compared to the Scoville rating of 0 units for a sweet bell pepper. However, decades of plant development have now created peppers with much greater spiciness. Most people regard a modern Halabeno pepper, at 60,000 Scoville units to be incredibly hot, but there are also peppers so hot they earn Scoville ratings in the millions. Such peppers are not grown for food so much as they are for conversation.
Exotic though they may seem, hot peppers have virtually the same cultural requirements as all other species in the Capsicum genus, including sweet bell peppers. They are normally planted as nursery seedlings in the spring after the soil has warmed. From nursery transplants, peppers take 55 to 80 days to produce edible fruit. More exotic forms must be started from seeds started indoors many weeks before the outdoor planting date.
Botanical Name Capsicum spp. (mostly C. annuum)
Common Name Hot pepper, chili pepper, chili
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial; usually grown as an annual
Size 1 to 5 ft.; 1- to 3-ft. spread (depends on variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Rich, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0 to 6.8)
Native Area Southern North America and northern South America
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (usually grown as annuals)
How to Plant Hot Peppers
Gardeners zones 8 and above with long, warm growing seasons can direct sow peppers once the ground is warm and not too wet. But most hot peppers are either started from seed indoors or purchased as seedlings.
If you start your own hot pepper plants indoors, give them plenty of time to develop. Seed should be started eight to 12 weeks before your last frost date. The seeds can be slow to germinate. The use of a heating pad or some other means of heating the soil will speed germination. However, it will also cause the soil to dry out faster and the seeds will need more frequent watering.
You should see the first sets of true leaves within about six weeks. At that point, you can transplant them into individual pots and continue growing them indoors. Before planting them in the garden, harden off the seedlings, as they are very susceptible to cold temperatures. Wait to transplant in the garden until after all danger of frost and once temperatures remain reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Plant the seedlings about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in their pots. The base of the stems will send out small roots, making stronger plants. Space your plants based on their mature size; hot peppers do not mind being a bit crowded.
Pinching off the early shoots will encourage the plant to become bushy and full. Hot peppers tend to set a lot of fruit all at once. While some varieties are sturdy enough to stay upright on their own, staking may be necessary to keep the fruits from resting on the ground.
Hot Pepper Care
Light
Hot peppers require a full-sun location to grow well and produce ripened fruit.
Soil
Hot peppers can adapt to most soil types. They need well-draining soil, so some organic matter should be added. However, the taste will be hotter if the soil is a bit lean and not overly fertilized. A neutral soil pH of about 6.0 to 6.8 is best. A sprinkling of Epsom salts at planting seems to help fruit set, as does crowding the plants in their bed.
Water
Hot peppers need to dry out between waterings, but make sure they get at least 1 inch of water each week. They will drop their flowers if allowed to become drought-stressed. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help conserve soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
Peppers need warmth (at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit) to grow and set flowers. However, at extreme temperatures, 90 degrees and over or under 60 degrees, they will drop their blossoms until conditions become more favorable. If the weather remains cool or if it is an especially rainy growing season, it will take longer for hot pepper plants to begin flowering and ripening their fruits.
Peppers do equally well in dry and humid environments, provided soil moisture is maintained.
Fertilizer
Overfeeding will result in leafy plants with few peppers. Add some organic matter before planting to ensure good drainage as well as provide nutrients. You can also give them a dose of balanced fertilizer at planting time and again when the first flowers appear. Many gardeners add a small handful of Epsom salts to the soil at planting time as a magnesium boost.
Hot Pepper Varieties
It is thought that all peppers, hot and sweet, originally developed from the wild chiltepin pepper of Central America. The most commonly grown modern hot pepper varieties are cultivars of Capsicum annuum, a species that includes cayenne and jalapenos, as well as sweet peppers. In addition to the C. annuum varieties, other hot pepper species include Capsicum baccatum, Capsicum chinense, Capsicum pubescens, Capsicum frutescens.
Some recommended cultivars to grow include:
'Poblano': These pepper fruits are deep green, almost black, and look similar to a bell pepper. It is one of the milder of the hot peppers, with a Scoville rating up to 1,500 units—more interesting than a bell pepper, but far from intimidating.
'Jalapenos': This variety can range up to 8,000 Scoville units, making it considerably milder than cayenne peppers and within the tolerance level of most gardeners. The fruits are up to 3 inches long and can be green, yellow, or red, depending on the cultivar.
'Cayenne': Rating up to 50,000 on the Scoville scale, this one is not for the faint of heart. The thin fruits are 1 to 2 inches long, and they mature relatively quickly.
'Thai': This pepper has tiny, elongated fruits that pack a Scoville rating of up to 100,000 units.
'Habanero': This variety is still the standard for the hot pepper lover who wants bragging rights. Fruits are 1 to 2 inches long. At the upper end, these peppers can be blazingly hot, up to 350,000 Scoville units. There are now several varieties of Habeneros available.
For most gardeners, this is the upper end for peppers that will be readily edible. Beyond this, hot peppers become literally dangerous—such as the Carolina Reaper pepper, with a Scoville rating of more than 2 million units. Such peppers can badly burn skin and should be handled with great care.
Harvesting
You can keep your plants producing more hot peppers by harvesting regularly once they reach an edible size. Many gardeners like to allow their peppers to fully ripen and change color, but ripe fruits tend to lose some of their heat.
Cut the fruits from the plant; don’t pull. Hot peppers are best used within a few days of harvest. They can also be canned or frozen.
Growing Hot Peppers in Pots
Peppers do fairly well when grown in pots filled with a general-purpose potting mix, provided you keep them well watered. Potted peppers can be brought indoors in the winter, but they will need a sunny window in order to continue producing fruit.
Common Pests & Diseases
Healthy pepper plants don't suffer much from serious pest and disease problems. However, be on the lookout for the following:
Aphids and thrips can infest older plants. Symptoms include crinkled or very narrow leaves. These insects can spread viruses, which have no cure. Destroy any infected plants to prevent spreading the disease.
Cutworms can slice off young plants at ground level. Wrapping the base of the plants with foil, toilet paper tubes, or something similar will thwart them. Even toothpicks on either side of the stem will do the trick.
Fungal and bacterial leaf spots may occur. Affected parts should be removed and destroyed. Rotate pepper plants to another spot in following years, as pathogens may persist in the soil. Avoid planting peppers in any locations where other nightshades—such as tomatoes or eggplants—have been growing, as these species suffer from many of the same diseases.
When a man named Wilbur Scoville first devised a means to test the heat of a pepper in 1912, his hottest entry then came in at 20,000 units. At the time, this seemed plenty hot when compared to the Scoville rating of 0 units for a sweet bell pepper. However, decades of plant development have now created peppers with much greater spiciness. Most people regard a modern Halabeno pepper, at 60,000 Scoville units to be incredibly hot, but there are also peppers so hot they earn Scoville ratings in the millions. Such peppers are not grown for food so much as they are for conversation.
Exotic though they may seem, hot peppers have virtually the same cultural requirements as all other species in the Capsicum genus, including sweet bell peppers. They are normally planted as nursery seedlings in the spring after the soil has warmed. From nursery transplants, peppers take 55 to 80 days to produce edible fruit. More exotic forms must be started from seeds started indoors many weeks before the outdoor planting date.
Botanical Name Capsicum spp. (mostly C. annuum)
Common Name Hot pepper, chili pepper, chili
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial; usually grown as an annual
Size 1 to 5 ft.; 1- to 3-ft. spread (depends on variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Rich, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0 to 6.8)
Native Area Southern North America and northern South America
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 (usually grown as annuals)
How to Plant Hot Peppers
Gardeners zones 8 and above with long, warm growing seasons can direct sow peppers once the ground is warm and not too wet. But most hot peppers are either started from seed indoors or purchased as seedlings.
If you start your own hot pepper plants indoors, give them plenty of time to develop. Seed should be started eight to 12 weeks before your last frost date. The seeds can be slow to germinate. The use of a heating pad or some other means of heating the soil will speed germination. However, it will also cause the soil to dry out faster and the seeds will need more frequent watering.
You should see the first sets of true leaves within about six weeks. At that point, you can transplant them into individual pots and continue growing them indoors. Before planting them in the garden, harden off the seedlings, as they are very susceptible to cold temperatures. Wait to transplant in the garden until after all danger of frost and once temperatures remain reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Plant the seedlings about 1 inch deeper than they were growing in their pots. The base of the stems will send out small roots, making stronger plants. Space your plants based on their mature size; hot peppers do not mind being a bit crowded.
Pinching off the early shoots will encourage the plant to become bushy and full. Hot peppers tend to set a lot of fruit all at once. While some varieties are sturdy enough to stay upright on their own, staking may be necessary to keep the fruits from resting on the ground.
Hot Pepper Care
Light
Hot peppers require a full-sun location to grow well and produce ripened fruit.
Soil
Hot peppers can adapt to most soil types. They need well-draining soil, so some organic matter should be added. However, the taste will be hotter if the soil is a bit lean and not overly fertilized. A neutral soil pH of about 6.0 to 6.8 is best. A sprinkling of Epsom salts at planting seems to help fruit set, as does crowding the plants in their bed.
Water
Hot peppers need to dry out between waterings, but make sure they get at least 1 inch of water each week. They will drop their flowers if allowed to become drought-stressed. A good layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help conserve soil moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
Peppers need warmth (at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit) to grow and set flowers. However, at extreme temperatures, 90 degrees and over or under 60 degrees, they will drop their blossoms until conditions become more favorable. If the weather remains cool or if it is an especially rainy growing season, it will take longer for hot pepper plants to begin flowering and ripening their fruits.
Peppers do equally well in dry and humid environments, provided soil moisture is maintained.
Fertilizer
Overfeeding will result in leafy plants with few peppers. Add some organic matter before planting to ensure good drainage as well as provide nutrients. You can also give them a dose of balanced fertilizer at planting time and again when the first flowers appear. Many gardeners add a small handful of Epsom salts to the soil at planting time as a magnesium boost.
Hot Pepper Varieties
It is thought that all peppers, hot and sweet, originally developed from the wild chiltepin pepper of Central America. The most commonly grown modern hot pepper varieties are cultivars of Capsicum annuum, a species that includes cayenne and jalapenos, as well as sweet peppers. In addition to the C. annuum varieties, other hot pepper species include Capsicum baccatum, Capsicum chinense, Capsicum pubescens, Capsicum frutescens.
Some recommended cultivars to grow include:
'Poblano': These pepper fruits are deep green, almost black, and look similar to a bell pepper. It is one of the milder of the hot peppers, with a Scoville rating up to 1,500 units—more interesting than a bell pepper, but far from intimidating.
'Jalapenos': This variety can range up to 8,000 Scoville units, making it considerably milder than cayenne peppers and within the tolerance level of most gardeners. The fruits are up to 3 inches long and can be green, yellow, or red, depending on the cultivar.
'Cayenne': Rating up to 50,000 on the Scoville scale, this one is not for the faint of heart. The thin fruits are 1 to 2 inches long, and they mature relatively quickly.
'Thai': This pepper has tiny, elongated fruits that pack a Scoville rating of up to 100,000 units.
'Habanero': This variety is still the standard for the hot pepper lover who wants bragging rights. Fruits are 1 to 2 inches long. At the upper end, these peppers can be blazingly hot, up to 350,000 Scoville units. There are now several varieties of Habeneros available.
For most gardeners, this is the upper end for peppers that will be readily edible. Beyond this, hot peppers become literally dangerous—such as the Carolina Reaper pepper, with a Scoville rating of more than 2 million units. Such peppers can badly burn skin and should be handled with great care.
Harvesting
You can keep your plants producing more hot peppers by harvesting regularly once they reach an edible size. Many gardeners like to allow their peppers to fully ripen and change color, but ripe fruits tend to lose some of their heat.
Cut the fruits from the plant; don’t pull. Hot peppers are best used within a few days of harvest. They can also be canned or frozen.
Growing Hot Peppers in Pots
Peppers do fairly well when grown in pots filled with a general-purpose potting mix, provided you keep them well watered. Potted peppers can be brought indoors in the winter, but they will need a sunny window in order to continue producing fruit.
Common Pests & Diseases
Healthy pepper plants don't suffer much from serious pest and disease problems. However, be on the lookout for the following:
Aphids and thrips can infest older plants. Symptoms include crinkled or very narrow leaves. These insects can spread viruses, which have no cure. Destroy any infected plants to prevent spreading the disease.
Cutworms can slice off young plants at ground level. Wrapping the base of the plants with foil, toilet paper tubes, or something similar will thwart them. Even toothpicks on either side of the stem will do the trick.
Fungal and bacterial leaf spots may occur. Affected parts should be removed and destroyed. Rotate pepper plants to another spot in following years, as pathogens may persist in the soil. Avoid planting peppers in any locations where other nightshades—such as tomatoes or eggplants—have been growing, as these species suffer from many of the same diseases.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月18日
You might mistake nolana for a morning glory at first glance, but this flowering plant is actually a separate species, sometimes referred to as the Chilean bellflower. With blue or violet blooms and a tendency to creep, this plant makes a great groundcover plant or a flowering spiller in a container. It’s an annual in cool-weather climates and a perennial in warmer areas (hardiness zones 10 and 11).
It’s interesting to note that this plant is actually a member of the nightshade family. You might know nightshades by their edible types, like tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. This type of nightshade, however, gains its fame for its beautiful blooms all summer long.
Botanical Name Nolana
Common Name Chilean bellflower
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full to part sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue, blue-violet, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area Chile and Peru
How to Grow Nolana
Growing nolana is not complicated but does require understanding what these plants need to thrive--which isn't much! First, ensure that you have a location with plenty of sunlight—8 hours of direct sun is preferable. Second, make sure that the soil drains well. Third, don't worry about watering unless conditions become extremely hot and dry for an extended period of time.
If you understand these basic growing requirements, along with the more detailed information on growing conditions, you'll have a happy, healthy plant to reward you with beautiful blue blooms all summer long.
Light
Nolana is a sun-loving plant and thrives when planted in full sun. This plant requires 8 hours of sunlight a day for best blooming. It might survive, but won't thrive, if planted in partial shade.
Soil
While nolana is tolerant of a variety of soil types (including sandy or rocky conditions), one condition it cannot tolerate is too much water. Be sure that you plant it in very well-drained soil, otherwise it might be subject to rot.
Drought tolerance makes nolana a great option for raised garden beds, container gardens, and rock walls, if sufficient drainage is in place. Use a layer of gravel to enhance drainage and ensure that its roots don’t become waterlogged.
Water
Nolana plants are moisture management masters and they don’t require much in the way of regular watering. The foliage of these plants excretes salt and features hairy filaments on the underside of the leaves, which serves to attract moisture.
Do not water nolana on a regular basis unless there is a period of intense heat with little or no rainfall. If you notice that the blooms begin to wilt, you can lightly water the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Native to Chile and Peru, nolana does best in hot, dry climates. The plant is well-suited to making the most of very little water and dry soil is preferred to overly damp conditions.
In an ideal climate (typically hardiness zones 10 and 11), this plant is a hardy perennial. However, it also grows well across a variety of climates as a lovely annual. If you’re willing to replant nolana each year, you can grow this plant in hardiness zones 2 through 9 as well.
Fertilizer
There’s no real need to fertilize nolana. This plant does a lot with a little, is happiest to grow in well-drained soil, and isn’t particular about nutrient levels. If it's receiving sufficient sun, you can expect to enjoy beautiful blooms all summer long without any fertilizer.
Propagating Nolana
Nolana is notoriously difficult to propagate by cuttings or division; it is generally best grown from seed.
Varieties of Nolana
Nolana paradoxa: The most popular variety of nolana, this plant features blue, trumpet-shaped blooms and grows best in hot weather.
Nolana humifusa ‘Little Bells’: Like other types of nolanas, this plant is known for its trailing nature. What makes it stand out, however, is its light blue blooms with distinctive purple veining in the flower throat.
Growing in Containers
The cascading nature of nolana plants makes this plant a good option in a container garden These plants will share space with other varieties while adding greenery and blooms that spill over the edge of the container, hanging planter, or rock wall. Because nolana requires very little water, be sure to plant it in combination with plants that have the same water and sunlight requirements
There is not much you need to do differently to grow nolana in containers—other than ensure that there is plenty of drainage. As mentioned earlier, these plants can easily suffer from rot if they’re in damp, soggy conditions. Use a layer of pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the container, or add compost to the soil mixture to improve drainage.
Starting From Seeds
If you want to grow nolana in your garden, you’ll likely be starting from seeds because nolana transplants are not often available at nurseries. Fortunately, nolana is not overly difficult to start from seed.
To start nolana plants from seed, sow seeds in the spring—about 4 to 6 weeks before the last expected frost. Place the seeds in starter trays and cover them with a thin layer of soil or sand. Keep the medium moist until germination occurs.
When the plants have achieved a few inches of growth, thin seedlings 4 to 8 inches apart to give the root systems room to grow. Provide as much light as possible to avoid the seedlings becoming leggy. After the last frost, transplant to your desired outdoor location.
Landscape Uses
The easy-growing nature of nolana makes it a good choice for a variety of landscaping uses. It especially shines as a flowering plant for use in water-wise landscapes, called xeriscaping. Because nolana doesn’t require much attention or water, it's a great addition to a low-maintenance garden.
Because it has a creeping nature and grows where other plants won’t, nolana is also a popular choice as a groundcover. Even if your landscape environment has rocky or sandy soil, nolana does exceptionally well.
It’s interesting to note that this plant is actually a member of the nightshade family. You might know nightshades by their edible types, like tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. This type of nightshade, however, gains its fame for its beautiful blooms all summer long.
Botanical Name Nolana
Common Name Chilean bellflower
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full to part sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue, blue-violet, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area Chile and Peru
How to Grow Nolana
Growing nolana is not complicated but does require understanding what these plants need to thrive--which isn't much! First, ensure that you have a location with plenty of sunlight—8 hours of direct sun is preferable. Second, make sure that the soil drains well. Third, don't worry about watering unless conditions become extremely hot and dry for an extended period of time.
If you understand these basic growing requirements, along with the more detailed information on growing conditions, you'll have a happy, healthy plant to reward you with beautiful blue blooms all summer long.
Light
Nolana is a sun-loving plant and thrives when planted in full sun. This plant requires 8 hours of sunlight a day for best blooming. It might survive, but won't thrive, if planted in partial shade.
Soil
While nolana is tolerant of a variety of soil types (including sandy or rocky conditions), one condition it cannot tolerate is too much water. Be sure that you plant it in very well-drained soil, otherwise it might be subject to rot.
Drought tolerance makes nolana a great option for raised garden beds, container gardens, and rock walls, if sufficient drainage is in place. Use a layer of gravel to enhance drainage and ensure that its roots don’t become waterlogged.
Water
Nolana plants are moisture management masters and they don’t require much in the way of regular watering. The foliage of these plants excretes salt and features hairy filaments on the underside of the leaves, which serves to attract moisture.
Do not water nolana on a regular basis unless there is a period of intense heat with little or no rainfall. If you notice that the blooms begin to wilt, you can lightly water the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Native to Chile and Peru, nolana does best in hot, dry climates. The plant is well-suited to making the most of very little water and dry soil is preferred to overly damp conditions.
In an ideal climate (typically hardiness zones 10 and 11), this plant is a hardy perennial. However, it also grows well across a variety of climates as a lovely annual. If you’re willing to replant nolana each year, you can grow this plant in hardiness zones 2 through 9 as well.
Fertilizer
There’s no real need to fertilize nolana. This plant does a lot with a little, is happiest to grow in well-drained soil, and isn’t particular about nutrient levels. If it's receiving sufficient sun, you can expect to enjoy beautiful blooms all summer long without any fertilizer.
Propagating Nolana
Nolana is notoriously difficult to propagate by cuttings or division; it is generally best grown from seed.
Varieties of Nolana
Nolana paradoxa: The most popular variety of nolana, this plant features blue, trumpet-shaped blooms and grows best in hot weather.
Nolana humifusa ‘Little Bells’: Like other types of nolanas, this plant is known for its trailing nature. What makes it stand out, however, is its light blue blooms with distinctive purple veining in the flower throat.
Growing in Containers
The cascading nature of nolana plants makes this plant a good option in a container garden These plants will share space with other varieties while adding greenery and blooms that spill over the edge of the container, hanging planter, or rock wall. Because nolana requires very little water, be sure to plant it in combination with plants that have the same water and sunlight requirements
There is not much you need to do differently to grow nolana in containers—other than ensure that there is plenty of drainage. As mentioned earlier, these plants can easily suffer from rot if they’re in damp, soggy conditions. Use a layer of pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the container, or add compost to the soil mixture to improve drainage.
Starting From Seeds
If you want to grow nolana in your garden, you’ll likely be starting from seeds because nolana transplants are not often available at nurseries. Fortunately, nolana is not overly difficult to start from seed.
To start nolana plants from seed, sow seeds in the spring—about 4 to 6 weeks before the last expected frost. Place the seeds in starter trays and cover them with a thin layer of soil or sand. Keep the medium moist until germination occurs.
When the plants have achieved a few inches of growth, thin seedlings 4 to 8 inches apart to give the root systems room to grow. Provide as much light as possible to avoid the seedlings becoming leggy. After the last frost, transplant to your desired outdoor location.
Landscape Uses
The easy-growing nature of nolana makes it a good choice for a variety of landscaping uses. It especially shines as a flowering plant for use in water-wise landscapes, called xeriscaping. Because nolana doesn’t require much attention or water, it's a great addition to a low-maintenance garden.
Because it has a creeping nature and grows where other plants won’t, nolana is also a popular choice as a groundcover. Even if your landscape environment has rocky or sandy soil, nolana does exceptionally well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月16日
Iresine herbstii is a relatively uncommon plant, but one that's gorgeous in any garden or as a houseplant. In all, there are about 30 species of Iresine plants in the genus, all of them native to South America, especially Brazil. They range from small to medium-sized shrubs, and most are perennial. The flowers on these plants are unremarkable, consisting of small greenish or white flowers on small stems, but instead, they are commonly grown for their striking foliage.
Aside from their interesting foliage, these plants are notable for the range of their common names. Besides blood leaf, they are known as the chicken gizzard plant, the beefsteak plant, and other descriptive names. They are more common in the Southern Hemisphere, which makes them novelties in the northern hemisphere.
Botanical Name Iresine herbstii
Common Name Bloodleaf, chicken gizzard, beefsteak plant
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall when potted
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Loamy, soil-based potting mixture
Soil pH 5.6 to 5.9
Bloom Time Flowers not showy
Flower Color Green-white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 12
Native Area Brazil
Iresine Care
Although Iresine can be planted both outside and indoors, it gets quite finicky outdoors. It's hardy to USDA Zones 10 to 12, and it needs a lot of heat and humidity. If you live in an area that's prone to cooler temperatures, either grow Iresine as a houseplant or keep it in a container and move it indoors when the temperature drops.
In its native habitat or when grown outdoors in the right conditions, the plant can grow to be 5 feet tall with a 3-foot spread. However, indoors, it's more likely to stay between 12 and 18 inches tall, with red leaves that are up to 4 inches long.
Light
Smaller plants tend to thrive in partial shade, but as they grow they can tolerate more light. They are margin plants by nature, meaning they grow on the edge of forests and can withstand varied light levels. They can tolerate less light in the winter months, so don't place them too close to a window. If the plant is getting leggy, however, it's probably not getting enough light.
Soil
When growing the plant outdoors, Iresine prefers organically rich, well-draining soil. For indoor growth, though, use a loamy, soil-based potting mixture.
Water
Regular moisture is essential, especially during the growing season. They aren't water plants, so don't waterlog them, but plants without adequate moisture will begin to develop brown leaf margins and dropping leaves. During the winter months, you can cut back on waterings, but aim to keep the soil moist.
Temperature and Humidity
These are "warm house" plants and cannot tolerate lower temperatures or cold, dry air. The plant requires a temperature of at least 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, they are best grown in window boxes or bathrooms, which often have warmth and humidity. If you have a glasshouse, they will thrive there.
Due to their low tolerance for cold, dry air, they will need to be frequently misted and provided with adequate heat during the winter.
Fertilizer
Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the growing season.
Potting and Repotting
Iresine should be repotted annually until it reaches its mature size, then it can be repotted every other year or propagated to create new stock and discarded. In the tropical landscape, it is often used as bedding plants, so it's a nice effect to grow a small clump of them in a container or to grow them in a mixed container with other tropical plants.
Propagating Iresine
They can also be easily propagated from fleshy stem-tip cuttings. For best success, take cuttings early in the season, use a rooting hormone, and provide bottom warmth and very high humidity. Seal the pot inside a plastic bag to keep the moisture in, and remove it when the plant shows signs of new growth.
Varieties of Iresine
There are dozens of species of Iresine herbstii, but only a few are grown for ornamental purposes.
Iresine herbstii 'Brilliantissima': Bright red leaves with pink veins
Iresine herbstii 'Aueoreticulata': Green leaves with yellow veins
Iresine herbstii 'Blazin Rose': Deep red-purple leaves with pinkish-red veins
Iresine herbstii 'Acuminata': Dark maroon leaves with pinkish-red veins
Pruning
Iresine plants will put out small, pale green-white flowers, but they're not showy. Therefore, most gardeners choose to pinch off the buds, so that the plant can divert its energy into growing its beautiful foliage.
Common Pests and Diseases
Iresine doesn't have any significant pest or disease problems, but it is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and whitefly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
Aside from their interesting foliage, these plants are notable for the range of their common names. Besides blood leaf, they are known as the chicken gizzard plant, the beefsteak plant, and other descriptive names. They are more common in the Southern Hemisphere, which makes them novelties in the northern hemisphere.
Botanical Name Iresine herbstii
Common Name Bloodleaf, chicken gizzard, beefsteak plant
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall when potted
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Loamy, soil-based potting mixture
Soil pH 5.6 to 5.9
Bloom Time Flowers not showy
Flower Color Green-white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 12
Native Area Brazil
Iresine Care
Although Iresine can be planted both outside and indoors, it gets quite finicky outdoors. It's hardy to USDA Zones 10 to 12, and it needs a lot of heat and humidity. If you live in an area that's prone to cooler temperatures, either grow Iresine as a houseplant or keep it in a container and move it indoors when the temperature drops.
In its native habitat or when grown outdoors in the right conditions, the plant can grow to be 5 feet tall with a 3-foot spread. However, indoors, it's more likely to stay between 12 and 18 inches tall, with red leaves that are up to 4 inches long.
Light
Smaller plants tend to thrive in partial shade, but as they grow they can tolerate more light. They are margin plants by nature, meaning they grow on the edge of forests and can withstand varied light levels. They can tolerate less light in the winter months, so don't place them too close to a window. If the plant is getting leggy, however, it's probably not getting enough light.
Soil
When growing the plant outdoors, Iresine prefers organically rich, well-draining soil. For indoor growth, though, use a loamy, soil-based potting mixture.
Water
Regular moisture is essential, especially during the growing season. They aren't water plants, so don't waterlog them, but plants without adequate moisture will begin to develop brown leaf margins and dropping leaves. During the winter months, you can cut back on waterings, but aim to keep the soil moist.
Temperature and Humidity
These are "warm house" plants and cannot tolerate lower temperatures or cold, dry air. The plant requires a temperature of at least 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, they are best grown in window boxes or bathrooms, which often have warmth and humidity. If you have a glasshouse, they will thrive there.
Due to their low tolerance for cold, dry air, they will need to be frequently misted and provided with adequate heat during the winter.
Fertilizer
Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the growing season.
Potting and Repotting
Iresine should be repotted annually until it reaches its mature size, then it can be repotted every other year or propagated to create new stock and discarded. In the tropical landscape, it is often used as bedding plants, so it's a nice effect to grow a small clump of them in a container or to grow them in a mixed container with other tropical plants.
Propagating Iresine
They can also be easily propagated from fleshy stem-tip cuttings. For best success, take cuttings early in the season, use a rooting hormone, and provide bottom warmth and very high humidity. Seal the pot inside a plastic bag to keep the moisture in, and remove it when the plant shows signs of new growth.
Varieties of Iresine
There are dozens of species of Iresine herbstii, but only a few are grown for ornamental purposes.
Iresine herbstii 'Brilliantissima': Bright red leaves with pink veins
Iresine herbstii 'Aueoreticulata': Green leaves with yellow veins
Iresine herbstii 'Blazin Rose': Deep red-purple leaves with pinkish-red veins
Iresine herbstii 'Acuminata': Dark maroon leaves with pinkish-red veins
Pruning
Iresine plants will put out small, pale green-white flowers, but they're not showy. Therefore, most gardeners choose to pinch off the buds, so that the plant can divert its energy into growing its beautiful foliage.
Common Pests and Diseases
Iresine doesn't have any significant pest or disease problems, but it is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and whitefly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月09日
A larger-than-life succulent, the century plant is a visually stunning agave species. It can grow up to ten feet wide and six feet tall with fleshy, arching leaves in grey-green or variegated colors. To protect itself, the leaves are tipped with sharp spines that ward off intruding pets or people. The sap of the plant is considered mildly toxic1.
Also known as the American aloe, the plant’s name is a misnomer. It was once believed that it took 100 years for this plant to bloom, but we now know that it blooms after two or three decades of storing up energy to send up a single stalk, topped with an inflorescence of small yellow blossoms. A monocarpic species, the flower display is the plant’s final act before dying.
Common Name Century plant, American aloe, maguey
Botanical Name Agave americana
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Three to six feet tall, six to ten feet wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 8-11, USDA
Native Area Texas and Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Century Plant Care
Hands-off care and patience are required for growing a century plant. These large agaves must have well-draining soil and will benefit from intermittent watering, depending on climate conditions. As you wait a decade (and likely more) for the flower stalk to emerge, you can expect these plants to produce plenty of offshoots, which can be left to grow as part of a large colony or transplanted to new locations. Be vigilant towards the appearance of agave snout weevils, which can damage a plant beyond recovery.
Light
Like other agave species, century plants do best with full sun, so plant them in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day. However, it is possible to grow these plants in light shade if your site doesn’t meet the requirements for full sun.
Soil
These plants do best in dry, sandy soil. They can tolerate a range of other soil types, including clay soil, but well-draining soil is an absolute requirement. Century plants in overly moist soil can develop root rot.
Water
The long and fleshy leaves of the century plant are designed to store water during times of drought, so don’t hover around these plants with a watering can. However, these plants appreciate regular watering during the spring and summer growing season. Water deeply but then allow the soil to dry thoroughly in between watering sessions; this might be an interval of a week to a month, depending on climate conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The century plant is native to Mexico and Texas, providing an insight into the plant’s preferred temperature and humidity conditions. Warm temperatures with low humidity levels make for ideal climate conditions. Take note that the century plant is hardy to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but is likely to suffer damage from frost.
Fertilizer
It’s typically not necessary to fertilize a century plant. They do fine in sandy, nutrient-sparse soil. Like other agave species, these plants die after blooming so feeding with a fertilizer and accelerating the process only serves to shorten the plant’s lifecycle.
Types of Century Plants
‘Marginata’: Also sometimes known as a variegated century plant, this variety has cream-to-yellow margins along each side of the leaves, providing visual interest.
‘Mediopicta alba’: A slightly smaller cultivar variety, ‘Mediopicta alba’ features gray-green leaf margins with a single central stripe of creamy-white. It typically matures to a height of three to four feet, with a four- to six-foot spread.
‘Mediopicta aurea’: Similar to other mediopicta varieties of Agave americana, this cultivar matures to a smaller size at six feet tall and wide. It features variegated leaves with a bright yellow central stripe. It is generally also considered to fare better in light shade than some other agave varieties.
Propagating Century Plants
Like other agave species, century plants are most easily propagated from offsets. Also known as pups, these clones of the parent plant can easily be separated and planted independently. You won’t need many tools, because you can pull away the pups from the parent plant by hand in most cases. However, a small trowel can be useful and gloves will protect your hands from the spines of the parent plant. You will want to have a container or garden site ready with well-draining soil. Then, follow these steps to propagate:
After protecting your hands and arms, locate a pup at the base of the parent plant. In some cases, there can be a few pups growing close together. Use the trowel to gently loosen and separate the pups.
Grasp the pup at the base and wiggle it loose from the parent plant and soil. If necessary, use the trowel to separate the plant from the soil and roots attached to the parent plant. Leave a portion of the stem that connected to the offset to the parent, along with the pup’s root bundle. A bare base on the pup will be a challenging start to generating root growth.
Pups can be planted directly in the ground or in a container. In both instances, be sure to use well-draining soil.
How to Grow Century Plants From Seed
Growing a century plant from seed is fairly uncommon because the plant only flowers once in its lifetime only after several decades of growth. The much more common way to propagate a century plant is from offshoots, which it will regularly produce throughout its lifetime.
Potting and Repotting Century Plants
Century plants can be grown in pots, but keep in mind that these plants will mature to a very large size. Some gardeners choose to keep them in pots until the size of the plant (and its spiky leaves) makes it more practical to plant it in a permanent location in the ground.
If you choose to plant Agave americana in a container, choose a large pot and soil that offers excellent drainage. A combination of soil materials, such as an even mixture of compost, potting soil, and gravel or sand, is a good blend. You could also use a pre-mixed blend of succulent potting soil.
Fortunately, century plants are relatively slow-growing. You likely will only need to repot the plant every other year or so. When it's time to replant, wear protective gear like gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and pants to protect your skin from sharp spines. Replace the potting soil with a fresh mixture and choose a larger pot that will allow for the continued growth of your century plant.
Overwintering
The century plant is not frost tolerant, so it must be brought indoors to survive winter weather outside of its growing zones. If you have cold but relatively dry winters, you can overwinter a mature agave plant by providing it with a measure of protection from the elements. Plant it in a location that is well-draining and sheltered from northern exposures. Another option is to situate the plant next to a large rock, which will radiate heat after the sun goes down. If overnight temperatures reach the lower limit of this plant’s tolerance, cover it with a cotton sheet for additional protection.
How to Get Century Plants to Bloom
The most challenging part of getting a century plant to bloom is waiting for it to happen. In most cases, it will take 20 to 30 years before the plant sends up a single branched stalk with blossoms, reaching 20 feet or more in height. Fertilized or rapidly maturing plants might blossom in as little as ten years, but this is the exception rather than the rule. These plants only bloom once in their lifecycle, after which the plant dies.
After the century plant blooms, the leaves will collapse and the parent plant will die. However, because these plants are prolific producers of pups, a colony of offshoots will continue to thrive in the location.
Common Problems With Century Plants
The century plant is a healthy, vigorous plant that grows well when provided with the right growing conditions. However, it can face challenges in overly-moist conditions and gardeners must be vigilant in warding off the plant’s primary nemesis: the agave snout weevil.
Wilting or discolored leaves
If the leaves of the century plant become squishy, wilted, or discolored, this is a likely indicator of the most common problem to affect century plants: root rot, which is caused by overly moist soil conditions due to excess rainfall or watering. If the plant is manageable in size to dig out of the ground, you can examine the roots and cut away any black, slimy parts. Treat the remaining roots with a copper fungicide. Replant it in a drier location or amend the soil to improve drainage, perhaps with pumice, gravel, or sand.
Weak or foul-smelling plant
Typically, the large-growing century plant is steady and won’t easily be budged from side-to-side. However, if you notice that your plant is tilting or leaning or if a foul smell is coming from the plant, these are indications of an agave snout weevil infestation. These species of weevil feasts on large agave species, like the century plant. They weaken the plant by burrowing into the leaves to lay eggs. Once hatched, the larvae feed on the plant’s tissue. Compounding the problem, bacteria enters the plant through the holes left by the weevil and the plant begins to decay, resulting in the foul smell. Once the visible signs of an agave snout weevil infestation are present, it’s often too late to save the plant. The best option is to protect century plants from weevils and other plants through a regular application of neem oil or other insecticide.
FAQ
Do century plants live for 100 years?
No. Despite the name, these plants have a lifespan of 25 to 30 years on average.
When does a century plant bloom?
A century plant will bloom once in its lifetime, usually between 25 and 30 years. Well-fertilized plants may bloom as soon as ten years, but most people avoid speeding up the blooming process, because the plant dies soon after blooming.
Are century plants easy to take care of?
These plants don't require regular maintenance and will grow with little hands-on care. It is important that they have well-draining soil and don’t receive too much moisture.
Also known as the American aloe, the plant’s name is a misnomer. It was once believed that it took 100 years for this plant to bloom, but we now know that it blooms after two or three decades of storing up energy to send up a single stalk, topped with an inflorescence of small yellow blossoms. A monocarpic species, the flower display is the plant’s final act before dying.
Common Name Century plant, American aloe, maguey
Botanical Name Agave americana
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Three to six feet tall, six to ten feet wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 8-11, USDA
Native Area Texas and Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Century Plant Care
Hands-off care and patience are required for growing a century plant. These large agaves must have well-draining soil and will benefit from intermittent watering, depending on climate conditions. As you wait a decade (and likely more) for the flower stalk to emerge, you can expect these plants to produce plenty of offshoots, which can be left to grow as part of a large colony or transplanted to new locations. Be vigilant towards the appearance of agave snout weevils, which can damage a plant beyond recovery.
Light
Like other agave species, century plants do best with full sun, so plant them in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day. However, it is possible to grow these plants in light shade if your site doesn’t meet the requirements for full sun.
Soil
These plants do best in dry, sandy soil. They can tolerate a range of other soil types, including clay soil, but well-draining soil is an absolute requirement. Century plants in overly moist soil can develop root rot.
Water
The long and fleshy leaves of the century plant are designed to store water during times of drought, so don’t hover around these plants with a watering can. However, these plants appreciate regular watering during the spring and summer growing season. Water deeply but then allow the soil to dry thoroughly in between watering sessions; this might be an interval of a week to a month, depending on climate conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The century plant is native to Mexico and Texas, providing an insight into the plant’s preferred temperature and humidity conditions. Warm temperatures with low humidity levels make for ideal climate conditions. Take note that the century plant is hardy to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but is likely to suffer damage from frost.
Fertilizer
It’s typically not necessary to fertilize a century plant. They do fine in sandy, nutrient-sparse soil. Like other agave species, these plants die after blooming so feeding with a fertilizer and accelerating the process only serves to shorten the plant’s lifecycle.
Types of Century Plants
‘Marginata’: Also sometimes known as a variegated century plant, this variety has cream-to-yellow margins along each side of the leaves, providing visual interest.
‘Mediopicta alba’: A slightly smaller cultivar variety, ‘Mediopicta alba’ features gray-green leaf margins with a single central stripe of creamy-white. It typically matures to a height of three to four feet, with a four- to six-foot spread.
‘Mediopicta aurea’: Similar to other mediopicta varieties of Agave americana, this cultivar matures to a smaller size at six feet tall and wide. It features variegated leaves with a bright yellow central stripe. It is generally also considered to fare better in light shade than some other agave varieties.
Propagating Century Plants
Like other agave species, century plants are most easily propagated from offsets. Also known as pups, these clones of the parent plant can easily be separated and planted independently. You won’t need many tools, because you can pull away the pups from the parent plant by hand in most cases. However, a small trowel can be useful and gloves will protect your hands from the spines of the parent plant. You will want to have a container or garden site ready with well-draining soil. Then, follow these steps to propagate:
After protecting your hands and arms, locate a pup at the base of the parent plant. In some cases, there can be a few pups growing close together. Use the trowel to gently loosen and separate the pups.
Grasp the pup at the base and wiggle it loose from the parent plant and soil. If necessary, use the trowel to separate the plant from the soil and roots attached to the parent plant. Leave a portion of the stem that connected to the offset to the parent, along with the pup’s root bundle. A bare base on the pup will be a challenging start to generating root growth.
Pups can be planted directly in the ground or in a container. In both instances, be sure to use well-draining soil.
How to Grow Century Plants From Seed
Growing a century plant from seed is fairly uncommon because the plant only flowers once in its lifetime only after several decades of growth. The much more common way to propagate a century plant is from offshoots, which it will regularly produce throughout its lifetime.
Potting and Repotting Century Plants
Century plants can be grown in pots, but keep in mind that these plants will mature to a very large size. Some gardeners choose to keep them in pots until the size of the plant (and its spiky leaves) makes it more practical to plant it in a permanent location in the ground.
If you choose to plant Agave americana in a container, choose a large pot and soil that offers excellent drainage. A combination of soil materials, such as an even mixture of compost, potting soil, and gravel or sand, is a good blend. You could also use a pre-mixed blend of succulent potting soil.
Fortunately, century plants are relatively slow-growing. You likely will only need to repot the plant every other year or so. When it's time to replant, wear protective gear like gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and pants to protect your skin from sharp spines. Replace the potting soil with a fresh mixture and choose a larger pot that will allow for the continued growth of your century plant.
Overwintering
The century plant is not frost tolerant, so it must be brought indoors to survive winter weather outside of its growing zones. If you have cold but relatively dry winters, you can overwinter a mature agave plant by providing it with a measure of protection from the elements. Plant it in a location that is well-draining and sheltered from northern exposures. Another option is to situate the plant next to a large rock, which will radiate heat after the sun goes down. If overnight temperatures reach the lower limit of this plant’s tolerance, cover it with a cotton sheet for additional protection.
How to Get Century Plants to Bloom
The most challenging part of getting a century plant to bloom is waiting for it to happen. In most cases, it will take 20 to 30 years before the plant sends up a single branched stalk with blossoms, reaching 20 feet or more in height. Fertilized or rapidly maturing plants might blossom in as little as ten years, but this is the exception rather than the rule. These plants only bloom once in their lifecycle, after which the plant dies.
After the century plant blooms, the leaves will collapse and the parent plant will die. However, because these plants are prolific producers of pups, a colony of offshoots will continue to thrive in the location.
Common Problems With Century Plants
The century plant is a healthy, vigorous plant that grows well when provided with the right growing conditions. However, it can face challenges in overly-moist conditions and gardeners must be vigilant in warding off the plant’s primary nemesis: the agave snout weevil.
Wilting or discolored leaves
If the leaves of the century plant become squishy, wilted, or discolored, this is a likely indicator of the most common problem to affect century plants: root rot, which is caused by overly moist soil conditions due to excess rainfall or watering. If the plant is manageable in size to dig out of the ground, you can examine the roots and cut away any black, slimy parts. Treat the remaining roots with a copper fungicide. Replant it in a drier location or amend the soil to improve drainage, perhaps with pumice, gravel, or sand.
Weak or foul-smelling plant
Typically, the large-growing century plant is steady and won’t easily be budged from side-to-side. However, if you notice that your plant is tilting or leaning or if a foul smell is coming from the plant, these are indications of an agave snout weevil infestation. These species of weevil feasts on large agave species, like the century plant. They weaken the plant by burrowing into the leaves to lay eggs. Once hatched, the larvae feed on the plant’s tissue. Compounding the problem, bacteria enters the plant through the holes left by the weevil and the plant begins to decay, resulting in the foul smell. Once the visible signs of an agave snout weevil infestation are present, it’s often too late to save the plant. The best option is to protect century plants from weevils and other plants through a regular application of neem oil or other insecticide.
FAQ
Do century plants live for 100 years?
No. Despite the name, these plants have a lifespan of 25 to 30 years on average.
When does a century plant bloom?
A century plant will bloom once in its lifetime, usually between 25 and 30 years. Well-fertilized plants may bloom as soon as ten years, but most people avoid speeding up the blooming process, because the plant dies soon after blooming.
Are century plants easy to take care of?
These plants don't require regular maintenance and will grow with little hands-on care. It is important that they have well-draining soil and don’t receive too much moisture.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月03日
If you want to add a bit of spice to your garden, the cayenne pepper plant might be the perfect choice. These plants are a Capsicum annuum species cultivar. The species includes many other common pepper varieties, including bell peppers, Serrano peppers, and jalapeños, although the cayenne packs more of a punch when it comes to heat.
The peppers themselves measure around 4-6 inches long, have a long, tapering shape with a curved tip, and are most commonly red. The plants also produce flowers that are white to slightly purple and are shaped like a bell.
These frost-tender perennials can be grown as annuals in temperate areas, but they grow best in warm regions that closely mimic the conditions of their native sub-tropical and tropical regions in South and Central America. They can be planted in spring after any danger of frost has passed, and they usually take around three months to produce a mature harvest.
Botanical Name Capsicum annuum 'Cayenne'
Common Name Cayenne pepper
Plant Type Perennial/annual
Mature Size Pepper: 4-6 inches; plant: up to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral pH
Bloom Time Spring/summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical South and Central America
How to Plant Cayenne Pepper Plants
Positioning and spacing are vitally important for a successful harvest of Cayenne peppers. Space the plants around 24 inches apart (just allowing for light contact), and if the seeds are started indoors, they shouldn't be planted out until a couple of weeks after the last frost and the soil is suitably warmed. Make sure you select a location that hasn't been used by other members of the Solanaceae family, such as tomatoes or potatoes, in several years.
Cayenne Pepper Plant Care
Light
The cayenne pepper plant will grow best when exposed to full sunlight for at least eight hours per day.
Soil
Cayenne pepper plants require moist, well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral pH. More acidic soil can produce peppers that are spicier than normal. If you are unsure, it may be worth conducting a soil pH level test.
Water
Watering cayenne pepper plants can be a delicate process. They do require moist soil, but overwatering is a problem too. If the soil becomes either too dry or too saturated, the plant's foliage can turn yellow. A deep watering every few days at the base of the plant is generally beneficial. Mulching around the plant can be a helpful way to conserve moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
The cayenne pepper plant is a warm-weather species native to tropical regions, and it requires consistently warm temperatures to survive. These plants cannot withstand extremes in temperatures, either heat or cold.
Temperatures consistently below 55 degrees Fahrenheit will result in slow growth and leaf discoloration. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit will damage or kill the plants, and nighttime temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit can impact pepper production levels.
Fertilizer
Cayenne peppers will grow well in rich, fertile soil. If your soil is not particularly rich and you plant to use a fertilizer, make sure it isn't one with high nitrogen levels. This will direct energy towards impressive foliar growth rather than fruit production.
Harvesting
Cayenne peppers are usually ready to harvest anywhere from 70 to 100 days after planting. Ripe peppers will generally be red, around 4-6 inches long, have a waxy skin, and be firm to the touch. Overripe specimens that are soft will not be edible, and although you can eat the peppers when they are still green, they won't have such a pleasant or intense flavor.
Though the peppers can be pulled from the stem, it's recommended to snip the peppers from the plant to help prevent any damage. This is important because, when well maintained, you can continue to harvest peppers until the first fall frost.
Once picked, your peppers can be kept in the refrigerator. It is best to use them within a week of harvesting to appreciate the best flavor and nutritional value. The peppers can also be dried and ground into a powdered seasoning for use in an array of cuisines.
Growing Cayenne Peppers From Seeds
If you want to grow cayenne peppers in your own garden, and you happen to have a longer growing season and plenty of sun, you can sow the seeds directly into the soil 10 to 14 days before the final frost of the year.
However, when starting your cayenne pepper plant, you'll likely have the most success by planting them indoors or, better yet, in a greenhouse. The seedlings are delicate and cannot tolerate either overly hot or cold conditions.
When starting your plants indoors, place the container in a sunny location in a room that will maintain a temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds should be planted in light, well-drained soil and usually sprout in about 16 to 20 days.
Plant the growing seedlings into flats spaced a few inches apart or in individual pots, and then allow them to gradually acclimate to outdoor temperatures before transplanting about six to eight weeks later (assuming that all danger of frost has passed).
Transplanting is a shock for cayenne pepper seedlings, so take care to minimize the trauma. If you choose to transplant prior to the final frost of the season, you can protect them with hot caps, row covers, or black plastic.
Common Pests/Diseases
A few pests are attracted to peppers—they also tend to be problematic for other members of the nightshade family (like tomatoes). However, with attentive care, it would be rare for them to impact your harvest significantly. Keep an eye out for aphids, mites, pepper hornworms, pill bugs and leafminers.
Fungal diseases like leaf spot, fusarium wilt, and anthracnose can occasionally be a problem, especially in humid weather conditions. Proper spacing, good soil draining, and watering from the plant base can all help minimize the chances of these diseases becoming an issue.
The peppers themselves measure around 4-6 inches long, have a long, tapering shape with a curved tip, and are most commonly red. The plants also produce flowers that are white to slightly purple and are shaped like a bell.
These frost-tender perennials can be grown as annuals in temperate areas, but they grow best in warm regions that closely mimic the conditions of their native sub-tropical and tropical regions in South and Central America. They can be planted in spring after any danger of frost has passed, and they usually take around three months to produce a mature harvest.
Botanical Name Capsicum annuum 'Cayenne'
Common Name Cayenne pepper
Plant Type Perennial/annual
Mature Size Pepper: 4-6 inches; plant: up to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral pH
Bloom Time Spring/summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical South and Central America
How to Plant Cayenne Pepper Plants
Positioning and spacing are vitally important for a successful harvest of Cayenne peppers. Space the plants around 24 inches apart (just allowing for light contact), and if the seeds are started indoors, they shouldn't be planted out until a couple of weeks after the last frost and the soil is suitably warmed. Make sure you select a location that hasn't been used by other members of the Solanaceae family, such as tomatoes or potatoes, in several years.
Cayenne Pepper Plant Care
Light
The cayenne pepper plant will grow best when exposed to full sunlight for at least eight hours per day.
Soil
Cayenne pepper plants require moist, well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral pH. More acidic soil can produce peppers that are spicier than normal. If you are unsure, it may be worth conducting a soil pH level test.
Water
Watering cayenne pepper plants can be a delicate process. They do require moist soil, but overwatering is a problem too. If the soil becomes either too dry or too saturated, the plant's foliage can turn yellow. A deep watering every few days at the base of the plant is generally beneficial. Mulching around the plant can be a helpful way to conserve moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
The cayenne pepper plant is a warm-weather species native to tropical regions, and it requires consistently warm temperatures to survive. These plants cannot withstand extremes in temperatures, either heat or cold.
Temperatures consistently below 55 degrees Fahrenheit will result in slow growth and leaf discoloration. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit will damage or kill the plants, and nighttime temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit can impact pepper production levels.
Fertilizer
Cayenne peppers will grow well in rich, fertile soil. If your soil is not particularly rich and you plant to use a fertilizer, make sure it isn't one with high nitrogen levels. This will direct energy towards impressive foliar growth rather than fruit production.
Harvesting
Cayenne peppers are usually ready to harvest anywhere from 70 to 100 days after planting. Ripe peppers will generally be red, around 4-6 inches long, have a waxy skin, and be firm to the touch. Overripe specimens that are soft will not be edible, and although you can eat the peppers when they are still green, they won't have such a pleasant or intense flavor.
Though the peppers can be pulled from the stem, it's recommended to snip the peppers from the plant to help prevent any damage. This is important because, when well maintained, you can continue to harvest peppers until the first fall frost.
Once picked, your peppers can be kept in the refrigerator. It is best to use them within a week of harvesting to appreciate the best flavor and nutritional value. The peppers can also be dried and ground into a powdered seasoning for use in an array of cuisines.
Growing Cayenne Peppers From Seeds
If you want to grow cayenne peppers in your own garden, and you happen to have a longer growing season and plenty of sun, you can sow the seeds directly into the soil 10 to 14 days before the final frost of the year.
However, when starting your cayenne pepper plant, you'll likely have the most success by planting them indoors or, better yet, in a greenhouse. The seedlings are delicate and cannot tolerate either overly hot or cold conditions.
When starting your plants indoors, place the container in a sunny location in a room that will maintain a temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds should be planted in light, well-drained soil and usually sprout in about 16 to 20 days.
Plant the growing seedlings into flats spaced a few inches apart or in individual pots, and then allow them to gradually acclimate to outdoor temperatures before transplanting about six to eight weeks later (assuming that all danger of frost has passed).
Transplanting is a shock for cayenne pepper seedlings, so take care to minimize the trauma. If you choose to transplant prior to the final frost of the season, you can protect them with hot caps, row covers, or black plastic.
Common Pests/Diseases
A few pests are attracted to peppers—they also tend to be problematic for other members of the nightshade family (like tomatoes). However, with attentive care, it would be rare for them to impact your harvest significantly. Keep an eye out for aphids, mites, pepper hornworms, pill bugs and leafminers.
Fungal diseases like leaf spot, fusarium wilt, and anthracnose can occasionally be a problem, especially in humid weather conditions. Proper spacing, good soil draining, and watering from the plant base can all help minimize the chances of these diseases becoming an issue.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月13日
Huernia zebrina, commonly referred to as owl eye succulents, are a species of succulents native to South Africa that are known for their distinctive other-worldly blooms. They are characterized by 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges, and yellow and red 5-pointed, star-shaped flowers. Owl eye succulents are not large succulents, growing to only six to eight inches tall. They grow well indoors as houseplants since they generally require warm temperatures in order to thrive. Plus, if you frequently forget to water your houseplants - this is the succulent for you! They thrive on minimal moisture and can survive for several weeks at a time without water if needed.
Botanical Name Huernia zebrina
Common Name Owl eyes succulent, little owl eyes, lifesaver cactus, lifesaver plant, carrion flower, zebra-striped Huernia
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6" spread, 6-8" in height
Sun Exposure Bright light - partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH 6
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, red, purple, white
Native Area South Africa
How to Grow Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Not only are owl eyes succulents eye-catching, but they are easy to grow too. They can be characterized as having low water needs, and don’t require as much light as other succulents do. Generally, they don’t require pruning either, unless you are hoping to shape the plant or reduce its size. If you do prune an owl eyes succulent make sure to keep the cuttings - these can be used for propagation later on!
For those looking to grow this plant indoors, it is important to know that some varieties can exude a pungent smell similar to that of carrion to attract flies and encourage pollination. However, not all varieties have this characteristic.
Light
Unlike most succulents, Huernia zebrina does not tolerate hot, direct sun. Plants that receive too much light will turn red or purple, rather than deep green. In their natural habitat owl eyes, succulents grow beneath shrubs or other plants so they prefer bright light to partial shade conditions.
Water
Owl eyes succulents are sensitive to overwatering and can easily develop root rot. As a result, the roots should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. In the active growing season (spring and summer) owl eyes succulents will need more water than in the dormant season (fall and winter).
Soil
In their natural habitat, owl eyes succulents grow in open dry shrubland and stony areas. The soil is often calcrete or loamy Consequently, owl eyes succulents require a potting mix with excellent drainage to help mimic their natural environment. A mixture of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25% sand is perfect for Huernia zebrina and will help to prevent root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Owl eyes succulents need warm temperatures. They do best between 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 27 degrees Celsius) and should be protected from cold or freezing temperatures. Place owl eyes succulents outdoors during the summer for best growth, but ensure to bring them back indoors before the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, owl eyes succulents don’t require frequent fertilization. However, they can benefit from monthly fertilization throughout the growing season. Use a balanced liquid plant food or succulent fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15, once per month diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing before the end of the summer to ensure that new growth is not developing as the plant goes into dormancy.
Potting and Repotting
The roots of owl eyes succulents experience dieback in their cool-seasoned dormant, so they do best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out completely. Bonsai planters, for example, are great for Heurnia zebrina. Otherwise, using unglazed clay or terracotta pots for owl eyes succulents is recommended as they will help to keep the soil dry.
Propagating Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Owl eyes succulents can be propagated by cuttings easily. Take cuttings of the stems and set them aside for 24 hours to allow the ends to callous over. Plant the calloused end of the cutting in a well-draining potting mix and place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Do not water the new plant until small roots begin to form, approximately two and three weeks.
Common Pests/Diseases
Owl eyes succulents are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as spider mites, thrips, and aphids. Unfortunately, Huernia zebrina is especially attractive to mealy bugs. Treat infested succulents by rubbing the plant with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol to remove the bugs.
Botanical Name Huernia zebrina
Common Name Owl eyes succulent, little owl eyes, lifesaver cactus, lifesaver plant, carrion flower, zebra-striped Huernia
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6" spread, 6-8" in height
Sun Exposure Bright light - partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH 6
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, red, purple, white
Native Area South Africa
How to Grow Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Not only are owl eyes succulents eye-catching, but they are easy to grow too. They can be characterized as having low water needs, and don’t require as much light as other succulents do. Generally, they don’t require pruning either, unless you are hoping to shape the plant or reduce its size. If you do prune an owl eyes succulent make sure to keep the cuttings - these can be used for propagation later on!
For those looking to grow this plant indoors, it is important to know that some varieties can exude a pungent smell similar to that of carrion to attract flies and encourage pollination. However, not all varieties have this characteristic.
Light
Unlike most succulents, Huernia zebrina does not tolerate hot, direct sun. Plants that receive too much light will turn red or purple, rather than deep green. In their natural habitat owl eyes, succulents grow beneath shrubs or other plants so they prefer bright light to partial shade conditions.
Water
Owl eyes succulents are sensitive to overwatering and can easily develop root rot. As a result, the roots should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. In the active growing season (spring and summer) owl eyes succulents will need more water than in the dormant season (fall and winter).
Soil
In their natural habitat, owl eyes succulents grow in open dry shrubland and stony areas. The soil is often calcrete or loamy Consequently, owl eyes succulents require a potting mix with excellent drainage to help mimic their natural environment. A mixture of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25% sand is perfect for Huernia zebrina and will help to prevent root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Owl eyes succulents need warm temperatures. They do best between 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 27 degrees Celsius) and should be protected from cold or freezing temperatures. Place owl eyes succulents outdoors during the summer for best growth, but ensure to bring them back indoors before the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, owl eyes succulents don’t require frequent fertilization. However, they can benefit from monthly fertilization throughout the growing season. Use a balanced liquid plant food or succulent fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15, once per month diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing before the end of the summer to ensure that new growth is not developing as the plant goes into dormancy.
Potting and Repotting
The roots of owl eyes succulents experience dieback in their cool-seasoned dormant, so they do best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out completely. Bonsai planters, for example, are great for Heurnia zebrina. Otherwise, using unglazed clay or terracotta pots for owl eyes succulents is recommended as they will help to keep the soil dry.
Propagating Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Owl eyes succulents can be propagated by cuttings easily. Take cuttings of the stems and set them aside for 24 hours to allow the ends to callous over. Plant the calloused end of the cutting in a well-draining potting mix and place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Do not water the new plant until small roots begin to form, approximately two and three weeks.
Common Pests/Diseases
Owl eyes succulents are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as spider mites, thrips, and aphids. Unfortunately, Huernia zebrina is especially attractive to mealy bugs. Treat infested succulents by rubbing the plant with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol to remove the bugs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月15日
The Plectranthus genus is large, with more than 350 species of annuals, perennials, semi-succulents, and shrubs from Africa, Madagascar, Asia, Australia, and Pacific Islands. Members of the genus come in a variety of colors and sizes. But the blue spur flower (Plectranthus barbatus) stands out for its large, upright bushy structure. Also known by the botanical name Coleus barbatus, this plant is native to Africa but has spread abundantly.
These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers.
Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors.
Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus
Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late summer to early fall
Flower Color Lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care
Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy.
Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures.
Light
Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens.
For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results.
Soil
These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering.
Water
The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost.
As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter.
Fertilizer
The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely.
Potting and Repotting
The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage.
Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must.
Propagating Blue Spur Flower
The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how:
1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting.
Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers.
Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors.
Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus
Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late summer to early fall
Flower Color Lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care
Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy.
Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures.
Light
Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens.
For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results.
Soil
These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering.
Water
The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost.
As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter.
Fertilizer
The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely.
Potting and Repotting
The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage.
Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must.
Propagating Blue Spur Flower
The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how:
1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting.
Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
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