文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月02日
Distribution and habitat: Aloe aristata is a species of evergreen flowering perennial plant in the subfamily Asphodelaceae. It is native to mountains grassland of South Africa and is therefore best suited to warm, dry conditions. These plants can be found growing up to 2300m (7500 feet) above sea level in their natural habitat and is one of the hardest species within its genus. They have become increasingly rare in the wild through harvesting.
Description: Aloe aristata is a dwarf version of the Aloe genus. It is stemless with dark grey-green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm (6 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, spotted with tubercles. The margins of the leaves are lined with white horny materials and both the margins and the surfaces of the leaves are minutely toothed with short, soft white spines.
and has hard white edges and a bristle like growth from the leaf tip. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm (12 inch) stalk in early summer, lasting for several days. Mature plants produce many offsets.
Its fleshy leaves retain water allowing the plant to get through periods of drought without trouble. It is a small plant, usually growing to about 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch) in a tight rosette formation. Its nectar-rich, tubular orange flowers attract birds and bees.
Houseplant care: Aloe aristata is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
Gardening: In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners.They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden.
Location: Aloe aristata can be place in full sun or semi-shade in hot climates.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Irrigation: This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Fertilising: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Propagation: Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape.
Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Problems: Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases.
Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer.
Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Note: When not in bloom, Aloe aristata is similar to and often confused with Haworthia fasciata.
Uses: Aloe aristata is cultivated as a garden plant, but as it requires winter protection is grown under glass in temperate regions. Left to grow by themselves, they quickly form a large clump and are very effective in a large xeriphytic landscape if planted en masse about 0.5m (2 feet) apart, so that as the clumps grow and spread they form an expansive globular carpet.
Also, Aloe aristata is often grown indoors as a window-ledge succulent plant.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright filtered
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 7b-11
Description: Aloe aristata is a dwarf version of the Aloe genus. It is stemless with dark grey-green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm (6 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, spotted with tubercles. The margins of the leaves are lined with white horny materials and both the margins and the surfaces of the leaves are minutely toothed with short, soft white spines.
and has hard white edges and a bristle like growth from the leaf tip. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm (12 inch) stalk in early summer, lasting for several days. Mature plants produce many offsets.
Its fleshy leaves retain water allowing the plant to get through periods of drought without trouble. It is a small plant, usually growing to about 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch) in a tight rosette formation. Its nectar-rich, tubular orange flowers attract birds and bees.
Houseplant care: Aloe aristata is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
Gardening: In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners.They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden.
Location: Aloe aristata can be place in full sun or semi-shade in hot climates.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Irrigation: This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Fertilising: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Propagation: Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape.
Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Problems: Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases.
Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer.
Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Note: When not in bloom, Aloe aristata is similar to and often confused with Haworthia fasciata.
Uses: Aloe aristata is cultivated as a garden plant, but as it requires winter protection is grown under glass in temperate regions. Left to grow by themselves, they quickly form a large clump and are very effective in a large xeriphytic landscape if planted en masse about 0.5m (2 feet) apart, so that as the clumps grow and spread they form an expansive globular carpet.
Also, Aloe aristata is often grown indoors as a window-ledge succulent plant.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright filtered
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 7b-11
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月31日
Distribution and habitat: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is a very widespread species, occurring in the climatically severe central-southern Africa and Namibia. It is one of the most adaptable, widespread and also variable Haworthia primarily found in the summer rainfall area. It grows on bushes and rocky areas. Usually it is very proliferous or stoloniferous, forming clusters in nature and filling in the space it has – shady place under the bush or in rock crevices. It is associated with other succulents such as Euphorbia aggregata, Cotyledon toxicaria, Crassula obvallata, Mesembriantemum saxicolum and Stapelia flavirostris.
Description: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is one of the most widespread and also it is a very variable plant and in the past there were a huge number of names amongst this species (at least 26 varieties), but all this varieties merge gradually one with another through a continuous series of transitional forms, so now they are all called Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata .
It is a succulent evergreen slow-growing species reaching a size of 15cm (6 inch) in height. This plant is stemless, low 5-10cm (2-4 inch) in diameter with about 7-15 leaves arranged in spirals. The leaves are sessile 3-5cm (1-2 inch) long, 2-3cm (0.8-1 inch) wide at the base, fleshy, firm in texture, broadly triangular, strongly recurved, brownish to green, cuspidate at the apex; upper surface flattish, marked with six pale green anastomosing verticallines forming a square patterned design and windowed (sunlight enters the plant body through these translucent windows and is converted into energy by many layers of chlorophyll-rich cells), lower surface is usually rounded slightly scabrid with raised coriaceous tubercles, especially in the upper part where they are arranged in transverse rows, margins with recurved white teeth. The leaves are greenish, form a rosette and turn to reddish in full sun.
This stemless plant sends underground stolons up to 14cm (6 inch) away from the mother plant. This vegetative reproduction results in a mat of plants and produce clones of parent plant.
Small tubular white flowers with green bibs appear in summer time on a few flowered simple raceme up to 50cm (20 inch) tall.
Houseplant care: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in cultivation it grows quite easily, spreading by offsetting and via stolons.
Light: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata will take various light conditions, but neither direct sunlight or deep shade. If given it the right amount of sun light, the nice markings will be more visible and plants more attractive.
It is recommended to stand these plants outside in summer in a place where they can get some indirect sun light.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures are satisfactory at all times, but Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata do best if winter temperatures are kept about 15°C (59°F). They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). They do prefer more warmth even while resting in winter and spring, however.
Watering: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is very tolerant of underwatering, but will succumb quickly to rotting if overwatered. During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely.
Their growing season tends to be during the winter months and roots are often lost during summer months. Watering at the wrong time of year may kill the plant, so some sensitivity to the active growing cycle is required.
Feeding: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata thrives with very occasionally and should only be fertilised using a weak solution.
Potting and repotting: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata has a slow rate of growth, therefor repotting is only required infrequently and usually only when offsets have filled the pot. Half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants. When pot a specimen always leave a 4-5cm space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture.
Gardening: Outdoors Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants do fairly well in zones 9b-10b in arid climates. They make fairly decent landscape plants filling small areas between rocks nicely. But they often get lost in complicated and overgrown gardens and then suffer from lack of light. To overcome such situations it is recommended to grow Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in pots.
Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in wild are nearly buried in the soils with only the leaf-tops exposed. They do not need to be planted this way in pots and look a lot nicer with at least some leaves sticking out above the soils.
Position: The more light the better, partial day sun to light shade is the optimum light intensity needed for Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants. Also, these plants will grow well in a greenhouse.
Soil: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata need a well draining soil and a layer of top dressing.
These plants need mildly acidic soil. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage. Warm climates may require more water-retention properties than cool or indoor climates.
Top dressing is a good idea, not just for looks, but helps to keep the plant’s leaves off from the wet soil, promotes drainage through the soil and help preserving the water into the soil.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold… however, Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering… too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Some experts recommend just repotting every few years and that will pretty much negate the need for fertilizer.
Propagation: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata can be propagated by seed or offsets.
Most Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants will eventually offset and those offsets are easy to separate and produce a new plant. This way of propagation will result in new plant identical with the parent plant. When cutting off an offset without roots, best to let it dry over three days or so before replanting it again. Press it on slightly moist soil and keep it in warm area and keep out of sun. Summer is the best moment to separate the offsets. They will root into the soil.
Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridise so easily that the results are likely to be unpredictable.
The flowers of Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata need pollination in order to produce seeds and artificial pollination is very effective. It is easy to create all sorts of Haworthia hybrids by transferring pollen from flower to flower, plant to plant.
Problems: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is generally disease free.
These plants may need to be re-rooted (get rooting hormone) in an evenly warm, well lit but protected environment. Once it is rooted well, it can go back out into the general collection for more abuse.
Exposure to direct sunlight of unaccustomed plants can lead to severely sunburn and subsequently may rot.
Grown in low light for much of the year can create etiolated, weakened and abnormally green plants.
Meallybugs may be a problem. It is their main pest.
Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Note: The Latin name tessellata comes from the tiled pattern in the leaf faces. Sunlight enters the plant body through these translucent windows and is converted into energy by many layers of chlorophyll-rich cells. This is especially useful in the arid climates where Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata makes its living as the primary photosynthesis tissues are not exposed to the drying elements.
Companion plants: Haworthias species are small succulent plants closely related to Aloe, Gasteria, Kniphofia, Poellnitzia and Astroloba species.
Uses and display: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata are generally grown for their decorative leaf markings and architectural forms. They are suitable for patio landscapes and as container plants, being an attractive, easy plant for a pan. They are compact plants so can easily be grouped in different sized containers to add visual appeal.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – coloured
Shape – rosette
Height: 15cm (6 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – medium
Temperature in rest period – min 4°C max 18°C (39-59°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
Description: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is one of the most widespread and also it is a very variable plant and in the past there were a huge number of names amongst this species (at least 26 varieties), but all this varieties merge gradually one with another through a continuous series of transitional forms, so now they are all called Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata .
It is a succulent evergreen slow-growing species reaching a size of 15cm (6 inch) in height. This plant is stemless, low 5-10cm (2-4 inch) in diameter with about 7-15 leaves arranged in spirals. The leaves are sessile 3-5cm (1-2 inch) long, 2-3cm (0.8-1 inch) wide at the base, fleshy, firm in texture, broadly triangular, strongly recurved, brownish to green, cuspidate at the apex; upper surface flattish, marked with six pale green anastomosing verticallines forming a square patterned design and windowed (sunlight enters the plant body through these translucent windows and is converted into energy by many layers of chlorophyll-rich cells), lower surface is usually rounded slightly scabrid with raised coriaceous tubercles, especially in the upper part where they are arranged in transverse rows, margins with recurved white teeth. The leaves are greenish, form a rosette and turn to reddish in full sun.
This stemless plant sends underground stolons up to 14cm (6 inch) away from the mother plant. This vegetative reproduction results in a mat of plants and produce clones of parent plant.
Small tubular white flowers with green bibs appear in summer time on a few flowered simple raceme up to 50cm (20 inch) tall.
Houseplant care: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in cultivation it grows quite easily, spreading by offsetting and via stolons.
Light: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata will take various light conditions, but neither direct sunlight or deep shade. If given it the right amount of sun light, the nice markings will be more visible and plants more attractive.
It is recommended to stand these plants outside in summer in a place where they can get some indirect sun light.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures are satisfactory at all times, but Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata do best if winter temperatures are kept about 15°C (59°F). They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). They do prefer more warmth even while resting in winter and spring, however.
Watering: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is very tolerant of underwatering, but will succumb quickly to rotting if overwatered. During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely.
Their growing season tends to be during the winter months and roots are often lost during summer months. Watering at the wrong time of year may kill the plant, so some sensitivity to the active growing cycle is required.
Feeding: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata thrives with very occasionally and should only be fertilised using a weak solution.
Potting and repotting: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata has a slow rate of growth, therefor repotting is only required infrequently and usually only when offsets have filled the pot. Half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants. When pot a specimen always leave a 4-5cm space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture.
Gardening: Outdoors Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants do fairly well in zones 9b-10b in arid climates. They make fairly decent landscape plants filling small areas between rocks nicely. But they often get lost in complicated and overgrown gardens and then suffer from lack of light. To overcome such situations it is recommended to grow Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in pots.
Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in wild are nearly buried in the soils with only the leaf-tops exposed. They do not need to be planted this way in pots and look a lot nicer with at least some leaves sticking out above the soils.
Position: The more light the better, partial day sun to light shade is the optimum light intensity needed for Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants. Also, these plants will grow well in a greenhouse.
Soil: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata need a well draining soil and a layer of top dressing.
These plants need mildly acidic soil. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage. Warm climates may require more water-retention properties than cool or indoor climates.
Top dressing is a good idea, not just for looks, but helps to keep the plant’s leaves off from the wet soil, promotes drainage through the soil and help preserving the water into the soil.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold… however, Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering… too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Some experts recommend just repotting every few years and that will pretty much negate the need for fertilizer.
Propagation: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata can be propagated by seed or offsets.
Most Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants will eventually offset and those offsets are easy to separate and produce a new plant. This way of propagation will result in new plant identical with the parent plant. When cutting off an offset without roots, best to let it dry over three days or so before replanting it again. Press it on slightly moist soil and keep it in warm area and keep out of sun. Summer is the best moment to separate the offsets. They will root into the soil.
Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridise so easily that the results are likely to be unpredictable.
The flowers of Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata need pollination in order to produce seeds and artificial pollination is very effective. It is easy to create all sorts of Haworthia hybrids by transferring pollen from flower to flower, plant to plant.
Problems: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is generally disease free.
These plants may need to be re-rooted (get rooting hormone) in an evenly warm, well lit but protected environment. Once it is rooted well, it can go back out into the general collection for more abuse.
Exposure to direct sunlight of unaccustomed plants can lead to severely sunburn and subsequently may rot.
Grown in low light for much of the year can create etiolated, weakened and abnormally green plants.
Meallybugs may be a problem. It is their main pest.
Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Note: The Latin name tessellata comes from the tiled pattern in the leaf faces. Sunlight enters the plant body through these translucent windows and is converted into energy by many layers of chlorophyll-rich cells. This is especially useful in the arid climates where Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata makes its living as the primary photosynthesis tissues are not exposed to the drying elements.
Companion plants: Haworthias species are small succulent plants closely related to Aloe, Gasteria, Kniphofia, Poellnitzia and Astroloba species.
Uses and display: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata are generally grown for their decorative leaf markings and architectural forms. They are suitable for patio landscapes and as container plants, being an attractive, easy plant for a pan. They are compact plants so can easily be grouped in different sized containers to add visual appeal.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – coloured
Shape – rosette
Height: 15cm (6 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – medium
Temperature in rest period – min 4°C max 18°C (39-59°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月26日
Plants produce new individuals similar to themselves, which is called reproduction. This is a natural phenomenon that plants reproduce and continue species, and it is also one of the basic characteristics of plant life. There are five main propagation methods of flowers: sowing, cutting, rameting, grafting and layering.
1. Sowing and breeding
basic concept
The sowing process is as follows: sterilize the soil in the sun, irrigate it with water, sprinkle the seeds evenly on the soil layer, then choose to cover the soil or not cover the leaves according to the size of the seeds, keep the soil moist, but do not accumulate water, move the flowerpot to the place with scattered light in time after the seeds germinate, and apply some liquid fertilizer, so that the seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2 ~ 3 leaves.
matters need attention
1. The sowing time of flowers is regular. Generally, open-field annual flowers and woody flowers are sown from March to April in spring, and the daily average temperature is stable at 15℃; open-field biennial flowers are mostly sown from August to September in autumn. The sowing date of greenhouse flowers often depends on the required flowering period. There is no strict seasonal restriction, but it is generally necessary to avoid the coldest and hottest seasons.
2. Flower seeds should absorb enough water before germination, and then they can extend radicle and germinate slowly. In order to meet the temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions required for seed germination, it is best to put the seeds in gauze bags before sowing, soak them in warm water at 40℃ for 24 hours, then spread them out on wet gauze, keep the gauze moist, and then sow them after the radicle of the seeds breaks through the seed coat.
3. Flower seeds are divided into four grades: large, medium, small and fine particles. The grain size of large seeds is above 0.5 cm, medium seeds are 0.2 ~ 0.5 cm, small seeds are 0.1 ~ 0.2 cm, and micro seeds are below 0.1 cm. Whether it is large, medium or small seeds, the sowing depth should be 2 ~ 3 times of the seed diameter. Large seeds can be sown in holes, the depth of which is 23 times of the diameter of the seeds, and the soil is flat with the bed surface after sowing; Medium-sized and small-sized seeds are first removed from the bed surface and then covered with a thin layer of soil; fine-sized seeds do not need to be covered with soil.
2. Cutting propagation
basic concept
Cutting propagation means taking a part of vegetative organs of a plant, inserting it into loose and wet soil or fine sand, and using its regeneration ability, making it take root and take branches to become a new plant.
Cuttage propagation
matters need attention
1. As the mother plant of cutting, it is required to have excellent varieties, vigorous growth and no diseases and insect pests, and the growing and aging plants should not be selected as the mother plant of cutting. On the same plant, the cuttings should choose branches whose middle and upper parts are sunny and full, and it is better to have shorter internodes, full bud heads and thick branches and leaves. On the same branch, hardwood cutting should choose the middle and lower parts of branches, because the middle and lower parts store more nutrients, while the tip tissues are often not full.
2. Cutting should be carried out immediately after cutting the sowing strips. Cutting strips such as rose, hibiscus syriacus, and clover, which are cut in late autumn, can be cut well, tied into bundles, buried in flowerpots with wet sand, and placed in a place where the indoor temperature is kept at 0~5℃. Pay attention not to make the sand too dry in winter, and then wait for the early spring of the following year before cutting. Flowers such as Chinese rose can also be cut in plastic shed in winter. Cuttings of succulent plants such as cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for about a week after cutting, and then cut when the cut mouth is slightly dry, otherwise it is easy to rot. Cutting cuttings of Begonia fortunei, oleander, etc., can be soaked in clear water after cutting, and can be directly planted into pots after rooting. For Chinese rose, Milan, etc., dip the lower mouth of cuttings in the injection of vitamin B, and then take it out for a minute or two, so that the liquid medicine can be sucked into cuttings and then inserted into coarse sand. This treatment can promote rooting.
3. After cuttage, management should be strengthened to create good rooting conditions for cuttings. Generally, rooting of flower cuttings requires both soil moisture and air circulation. Cover the cutting pots or beds with a cover made of glass plate or plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity. Small bricks should be placed under the hood to allow air to flow in. In summer and early autumn, the cuttage pots should be placed in shade during the day and in the open air at night; when the temperature is not enough in early, spring, late autumn and winter, they can be placed in warm places or greenhouses, but attention must be paid to the adjustment of temperature and humidity. In the future, according to the rooting speed of cuttings, gradually strengthen the illumination.
3. Branch propagation
basic concept
Ramet propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clumping branches, sucking buds and creeping branches of flowers from their mother plants and planting them as independent new plants, which is generally applicable to perennial flowers. The ramet method can be divided into two types: full division method and half division method.
division propagation
Full division method: dig out all the roots of the mother plants from the soil, and divide them into several small clusters by hand or scissors. Each small cluster can carry 1 ~ 3 branches, with roots at the lower part, and transplant them to other places or flowerpots respectively. After 3 ~ 4 years, it can be divided again.
Half-division method: when dividing plants, it is not necessary to dig out all the mother plants, but only dig out the soil around, on both sides or on one side of the mother plants to expose the root system, cut them into small clusters with l3 branches with roots at the lower part, and transplant these small clusters to other places to grow into new plants.
matters need attention
1. ramets have a high survival rate because they have complete roots, stems and leaves, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is commonly used in strong species in tillering ability, such as Chimonanthus praecox, brown bamboo, phoenix-tailed bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, Hosta Hosta, etc. In addition, small plants such as chlorophytum and Saxifraga stolonifera, and sucking buds (twigs) produced at the base of Sedum alfredii and Clematis chinensis in pulpy plants can be isolated and planted at any time.
2. Generally, flowers that bloom in early spring should be divided after stopping growing in autumn, and flowers that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided before sprouting in early spring.
4. Grafting and propagation
basic concept
Grafting is to use a part of the vegetative organs of plants to graft on other plants. Branches used for grafting are called scions, buds used are called grafted buds, grafted plants are called rootstocks, and grafted seedlings are called grafted seedlings. Grafting propagation is a good seed method for propagating clones, which is often used in plum blossom and rose. The principle of grafting survival is that the cambium of two plants with affinity heals at the junction, which makes the catheter and sieve tube communicate with each other to form a new individual.
Matters needing attention in grafting propagation
1. Grafting includes several methods, such as branch grafting, bud grafting, butt grafting (peeling off part of cortex of two plants with roots in bananas which are easy to approach in blue phase, and then joining with each other), pith grafting (scion and rootstock heal through pith), root grafting (using root as anvil), etc. However, no matter which method, attention should be paid to the management of temperature, light and water after grafting.
2. It is best to choose different plants which belong to the same genus or the same species as scions for rootstocks, because they have strong affinity, fast graft healing and high survival rate.
3. Rootstocks should have developed roots and strong growth, adapt to the local soil and climate, and have good resistance to pests.
4. Branches with full growth and full buds should be selected for scions.
5. The grafting season varies with different varieties of flowers and trees. For example, bud grafting for clove is mostly carried out in summer, and branch grafting for fuso can be carried out in spring and summer.
5, layering propagation
basic concept
Sliced propagation is a propagation method in which the branches attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become a new individual. The layering propagation is mostly used for woody flowers which are easy to take root naturally in stems and internodes, but not easy to take root by cutting. The layering time can be carried out all the year round in warm areas, while it is mostly carried out in spring in the north. When layering propagation layering, in order to interrupt the downward transmission of organic substances (such as sugar, auxin and other substances) from the upper ends of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate on the upper parts of branches for use when rooting, ring peeling can be carried out. Applying IBA auxin to girdling site can promote rooting.
There are three layering methods: ordinary layering method, soil piling layering method and high branch layering method.
1. The common layering method is mostly used for vine flowers with soft and slender branches, such as Yingchun, Honeysuckle and Lingxiao. When layering, the periphery of the mother plant is bent into an arc shape, the bent protruding part is cut and buried in the soil, and then the bent part is fixed with hooks, and the mother plant can be cut off after it takes root, and then transplanted.
2. The method of stacking soil and layering is suitable for deciduous shrubs with strong tufts and hard branches that are not easy to bend, such as Redwood, Ulmus pumila and Rosa roxburghii. In early summer, the lower part of its branches is peeled for about 1 cm at a distance of about 25 cm from the soil, and then it is cultivated around the mother plant, and the lower part of the whole plant cluster is buried in the soil, and the soil pile is kept moist. After rooting and before sprouting in the next spring, dig the mound, cut the branches from the base to separate the mother plants, and then transplant them separately.
3. High-branch layering method is mostly used for evergreen flowers and trees, such as white orchid, Milan, smiling, etc. Generally, the layering of high branches is carried out in the peak growth season. The well-developed biennial branches are selected and peeled annularly at their proper positions. Then peat soil, mountain mud, moss, etc. are packed in plastic bags, which are used to wrap the branches, pour water through them, and fasten and fix the bags tightly. In the future, pay attention to timely water supply to keep the culture soil moist. After the branches take root, cut off the mother body from the bottom of the bag, remove the wrapped plastic bag, plant it in a pot with soil, and keep it in a cool place. After a large number of new shoots germinate, see you again.
The most obvious advantage of layering propagation is that it is easy to survive and can keep the characteristics of original varieties. This method can be used for some varieties that are difficult to reproduce by other propagation methods.
1. Sowing and breeding
basic concept
The sowing process is as follows: sterilize the soil in the sun, irrigate it with water, sprinkle the seeds evenly on the soil layer, then choose to cover the soil or not cover the leaves according to the size of the seeds, keep the soil moist, but do not accumulate water, move the flowerpot to the place with scattered light in time after the seeds germinate, and apply some liquid fertilizer, so that the seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2 ~ 3 leaves.
matters need attention
1. The sowing time of flowers is regular. Generally, open-field annual flowers and woody flowers are sown from March to April in spring, and the daily average temperature is stable at 15℃; open-field biennial flowers are mostly sown from August to September in autumn. The sowing date of greenhouse flowers often depends on the required flowering period. There is no strict seasonal restriction, but it is generally necessary to avoid the coldest and hottest seasons.
2. Flower seeds should absorb enough water before germination, and then they can extend radicle and germinate slowly. In order to meet the temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions required for seed germination, it is best to put the seeds in gauze bags before sowing, soak them in warm water at 40℃ for 24 hours, then spread them out on wet gauze, keep the gauze moist, and then sow them after the radicle of the seeds breaks through the seed coat.
3. Flower seeds are divided into four grades: large, medium, small and fine particles. The grain size of large seeds is above 0.5 cm, medium seeds are 0.2 ~ 0.5 cm, small seeds are 0.1 ~ 0.2 cm, and micro seeds are below 0.1 cm. Whether it is large, medium or small seeds, the sowing depth should be 2 ~ 3 times of the seed diameter. Large seeds can be sown in holes, the depth of which is 23 times of the diameter of the seeds, and the soil is flat with the bed surface after sowing; Medium-sized and small-sized seeds are first removed from the bed surface and then covered with a thin layer of soil; fine-sized seeds do not need to be covered with soil.
2. Cutting propagation
basic concept
Cutting propagation means taking a part of vegetative organs of a plant, inserting it into loose and wet soil or fine sand, and using its regeneration ability, making it take root and take branches to become a new plant.
Cuttage propagation
matters need attention
1. As the mother plant of cutting, it is required to have excellent varieties, vigorous growth and no diseases and insect pests, and the growing and aging plants should not be selected as the mother plant of cutting. On the same plant, the cuttings should choose branches whose middle and upper parts are sunny and full, and it is better to have shorter internodes, full bud heads and thick branches and leaves. On the same branch, hardwood cutting should choose the middle and lower parts of branches, because the middle and lower parts store more nutrients, while the tip tissues are often not full.
2. Cutting should be carried out immediately after cutting the sowing strips. Cutting strips such as rose, hibiscus syriacus, and clover, which are cut in late autumn, can be cut well, tied into bundles, buried in flowerpots with wet sand, and placed in a place where the indoor temperature is kept at 0~5℃. Pay attention not to make the sand too dry in winter, and then wait for the early spring of the following year before cutting. Flowers such as Chinese rose can also be cut in plastic shed in winter. Cuttings of succulent plants such as cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for about a week after cutting, and then cut when the cut mouth is slightly dry, otherwise it is easy to rot. Cutting cuttings of Begonia fortunei, oleander, etc., can be soaked in clear water after cutting, and can be directly planted into pots after rooting. For Chinese rose, Milan, etc., dip the lower mouth of cuttings in the injection of vitamin B, and then take it out for a minute or two, so that the liquid medicine can be sucked into cuttings and then inserted into coarse sand. This treatment can promote rooting.
3. After cuttage, management should be strengthened to create good rooting conditions for cuttings. Generally, rooting of flower cuttings requires both soil moisture and air circulation. Cover the cutting pots or beds with a cover made of glass plate or plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity. Small bricks should be placed under the hood to allow air to flow in. In summer and early autumn, the cuttage pots should be placed in shade during the day and in the open air at night; when the temperature is not enough in early, spring, late autumn and winter, they can be placed in warm places or greenhouses, but attention must be paid to the adjustment of temperature and humidity. In the future, according to the rooting speed of cuttings, gradually strengthen the illumination.
3. Branch propagation
basic concept
Ramet propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clumping branches, sucking buds and creeping branches of flowers from their mother plants and planting them as independent new plants, which is generally applicable to perennial flowers. The ramet method can be divided into two types: full division method and half division method.
division propagation
Full division method: dig out all the roots of the mother plants from the soil, and divide them into several small clusters by hand or scissors. Each small cluster can carry 1 ~ 3 branches, with roots at the lower part, and transplant them to other places or flowerpots respectively. After 3 ~ 4 years, it can be divided again.
Half-division method: when dividing plants, it is not necessary to dig out all the mother plants, but only dig out the soil around, on both sides or on one side of the mother plants to expose the root system, cut them into small clusters with l3 branches with roots at the lower part, and transplant these small clusters to other places to grow into new plants.
matters need attention
1. ramets have a high survival rate because they have complete roots, stems and leaves, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is commonly used in strong species in tillering ability, such as Chimonanthus praecox, brown bamboo, phoenix-tailed bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, Hosta Hosta, etc. In addition, small plants such as chlorophytum and Saxifraga stolonifera, and sucking buds (twigs) produced at the base of Sedum alfredii and Clematis chinensis in pulpy plants can be isolated and planted at any time.
2. Generally, flowers that bloom in early spring should be divided after stopping growing in autumn, and flowers that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided before sprouting in early spring.
4. Grafting and propagation
basic concept
Grafting is to use a part of the vegetative organs of plants to graft on other plants. Branches used for grafting are called scions, buds used are called grafted buds, grafted plants are called rootstocks, and grafted seedlings are called grafted seedlings. Grafting propagation is a good seed method for propagating clones, which is often used in plum blossom and rose. The principle of grafting survival is that the cambium of two plants with affinity heals at the junction, which makes the catheter and sieve tube communicate with each other to form a new individual.
Matters needing attention in grafting propagation
1. Grafting includes several methods, such as branch grafting, bud grafting, butt grafting (peeling off part of cortex of two plants with roots in bananas which are easy to approach in blue phase, and then joining with each other), pith grafting (scion and rootstock heal through pith), root grafting (using root as anvil), etc. However, no matter which method, attention should be paid to the management of temperature, light and water after grafting.
2. It is best to choose different plants which belong to the same genus or the same species as scions for rootstocks, because they have strong affinity, fast graft healing and high survival rate.
3. Rootstocks should have developed roots and strong growth, adapt to the local soil and climate, and have good resistance to pests.
4. Branches with full growth and full buds should be selected for scions.
5. The grafting season varies with different varieties of flowers and trees. For example, bud grafting for clove is mostly carried out in summer, and branch grafting for fuso can be carried out in spring and summer.
5, layering propagation
basic concept
Sliced propagation is a propagation method in which the branches attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become a new individual. The layering propagation is mostly used for woody flowers which are easy to take root naturally in stems and internodes, but not easy to take root by cutting. The layering time can be carried out all the year round in warm areas, while it is mostly carried out in spring in the north. When layering propagation layering, in order to interrupt the downward transmission of organic substances (such as sugar, auxin and other substances) from the upper ends of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate on the upper parts of branches for use when rooting, ring peeling can be carried out. Applying IBA auxin to girdling site can promote rooting.
There are three layering methods: ordinary layering method, soil piling layering method and high branch layering method.
1. The common layering method is mostly used for vine flowers with soft and slender branches, such as Yingchun, Honeysuckle and Lingxiao. When layering, the periphery of the mother plant is bent into an arc shape, the bent protruding part is cut and buried in the soil, and then the bent part is fixed with hooks, and the mother plant can be cut off after it takes root, and then transplanted.
2. The method of stacking soil and layering is suitable for deciduous shrubs with strong tufts and hard branches that are not easy to bend, such as Redwood, Ulmus pumila and Rosa roxburghii. In early summer, the lower part of its branches is peeled for about 1 cm at a distance of about 25 cm from the soil, and then it is cultivated around the mother plant, and the lower part of the whole plant cluster is buried in the soil, and the soil pile is kept moist. After rooting and before sprouting in the next spring, dig the mound, cut the branches from the base to separate the mother plants, and then transplant them separately.
3. High-branch layering method is mostly used for evergreen flowers and trees, such as white orchid, Milan, smiling, etc. Generally, the layering of high branches is carried out in the peak growth season. The well-developed biennial branches are selected and peeled annularly at their proper positions. Then peat soil, mountain mud, moss, etc. are packed in plastic bags, which are used to wrap the branches, pour water through them, and fasten and fix the bags tightly. In the future, pay attention to timely water supply to keep the culture soil moist. After the branches take root, cut off the mother body from the bottom of the bag, remove the wrapped plastic bag, plant it in a pot with soil, and keep it in a cool place. After a large number of new shoots germinate, see you again.
The most obvious advantage of layering propagation is that it is easy to survive and can keep the characteristics of original varieties. This method can be used for some varieties that are difficult to reproduce by other propagation methods.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月18日
Distribution and habitat: Aichryson laxum belongs to the group of hairy herbaceous species. It is endemic to the Canary Islands, occurring at over 1000m (3280 feet) altitudes. It is adapted to dry areas, but prefers partial shade where is less exposed to direct sun, growing as understory plant. Aichryson laxum forms small populations along woods or sheltered by cliffs with its roots embedded on the crevices of volcanic rocks. This plant does not like wet feet, but the local frogs provide it with minimum humidity necessary to sustain its vegetation.
Aichryson laxum is annual or biennial, but it will produce volunteer seedlings around itself after flowering.
This species is also naturalised in Portugal. Is is a pretty rare species in culture may be because of its potential short life.
Description: Aichryson laxum is probably one of the most attractive species within this genus due to its large ovoid dark green leaves which are very hairy on both sides. It is a succulent that is freely branching shrublets. Of dwarf-tree-like appearance, it seldom grows over 30cm (12 inch) high. Its many thin, forked branches bear spoon-shaped leaves on short leaf stalk. The leaves form rosettes at the stem ends and blooms in the center of the rosette in numerous buds grouped. Clusters of many pale yellow flowers are regularly produced. This plant is liable to die after it has finished flowering.
Houseplant care: Aichryson laxum is a fast growing plant, but tends to lose their lower leaves.
In order to promote vegetative growth, the inflorescence should be cut off in time, otherwise this species will naturally grow as a biannual, dieing after flowering.
Light: Provide bright light with some direct sunlight. Aichryson laxum grow spindly and fail to bloom if they are grown in poor light.
Temperature: Aichryson laxum plants do well in wide range of temperatures. Under normal room conditions, Aichryson laxum that survive after flowering grows continuously. If they are kept in place where the temperature falls below 13°C (55°F) – and where the light is poor -, however, they will have a short winter rest period.
Watering: During the active growth period water Aichryson laxum moderately – enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout, but allowing the top half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. During the rest period, if any, water only enough to keep the potting mixture from drying out completely.
Feeding: In areas where light and temperature are low in winter (and plants have a rest period), apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period only. Elsewhere, Aichryson laxum plants may be fed throughout the year.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based based potting mixture. Because Aichryson laxum have small root systems, they do not need large pots but should be able to mature and flower in 10 or 13cm (4-5 inch) pots. If necessary, move small surviving plants into pots one size larger in spring.
Gardening: Aichryson laxum can tolerate minimum temperature as low as 2°C (36°F) when planted in ground.
Position: In culture Aichryson laxum plants are placed in light shade or sunny positions, but according with their natural habitat they will prefer light shade, especially in hot climates. The leaf colour varies depending on exposure to sunlight. In the shade they are green and in full sun they become slightly brownish green or khaki.
Soil: The planting substrate for Aichryson laxum plants should be sandy, gritty-sandy, loamy, sandy-loamy, clay, sandy clay or loamy clay soil, a well drained soil with mild acidity (around 6.1 to 6.5 pH).
Irrigation: Aichryson laxum prefer moderately moist soil at their roots. These plants will thrive in humid atmosphere. Short showers are preferred to deep irrigation. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. They tolerate a cool, frost-free winter if kept fairly dry.
They are drought-tolerant plants protected by the hairy leaves.
Fertilising: The Aichryson laxum does not require much fertiliser. Two to three applications of a balanced fertiliser during the growing season will feed these succulents.
Propagation: Small tip cuttings root easily if taken in spring or summer. Take shoots 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long, strip them of their lower leaves and plant them in a slightly moistened potting mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or perlite. Give the cuttings bright light and just enough water to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Rooting should take place in three to four weeks. When rooted, plant the cuttings in 8cm (3 inch) pots of soil-based mixture and treat them as adult plants.
Seeds are produced in abundance and will easily sow themselves.
Problems:
If too many leaves seems to be falling, it may be happening because Aichryson laxum plants are probably getting to much hot, dry air or scorching sun.
Treatment: Move them to a more suitable position.
Lifespan: Aichryson laxum tends to behave like an annual or biennial. This plant may die after flowering – but by no means always.
Uses and display: Aichryson laxum plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds. As succulent plant, it is suitable for xeriscaping or rockeries, suitable for shaded parts of the landscape. Also it is used as houseplant. Consider growing it as part of a cactus or succulent display.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 30-45cm (12-18 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – bright
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-12
Aichryson laxum is annual or biennial, but it will produce volunteer seedlings around itself after flowering.
This species is also naturalised in Portugal. Is is a pretty rare species in culture may be because of its potential short life.
Description: Aichryson laxum is probably one of the most attractive species within this genus due to its large ovoid dark green leaves which are very hairy on both sides. It is a succulent that is freely branching shrublets. Of dwarf-tree-like appearance, it seldom grows over 30cm (12 inch) high. Its many thin, forked branches bear spoon-shaped leaves on short leaf stalk. The leaves form rosettes at the stem ends and blooms in the center of the rosette in numerous buds grouped. Clusters of many pale yellow flowers are regularly produced. This plant is liable to die after it has finished flowering.
Houseplant care: Aichryson laxum is a fast growing plant, but tends to lose their lower leaves.
In order to promote vegetative growth, the inflorescence should be cut off in time, otherwise this species will naturally grow as a biannual, dieing after flowering.
Light: Provide bright light with some direct sunlight. Aichryson laxum grow spindly and fail to bloom if they are grown in poor light.
Temperature: Aichryson laxum plants do well in wide range of temperatures. Under normal room conditions, Aichryson laxum that survive after flowering grows continuously. If they are kept in place where the temperature falls below 13°C (55°F) – and where the light is poor -, however, they will have a short winter rest period.
Watering: During the active growth period water Aichryson laxum moderately – enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout, but allowing the top half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. During the rest period, if any, water only enough to keep the potting mixture from drying out completely.
Feeding: In areas where light and temperature are low in winter (and plants have a rest period), apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period only. Elsewhere, Aichryson laxum plants may be fed throughout the year.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based based potting mixture. Because Aichryson laxum have small root systems, they do not need large pots but should be able to mature and flower in 10 or 13cm (4-5 inch) pots. If necessary, move small surviving plants into pots one size larger in spring.
Gardening: Aichryson laxum can tolerate minimum temperature as low as 2°C (36°F) when planted in ground.
Position: In culture Aichryson laxum plants are placed in light shade or sunny positions, but according with their natural habitat they will prefer light shade, especially in hot climates. The leaf colour varies depending on exposure to sunlight. In the shade they are green and in full sun they become slightly brownish green or khaki.
Soil: The planting substrate for Aichryson laxum plants should be sandy, gritty-sandy, loamy, sandy-loamy, clay, sandy clay or loamy clay soil, a well drained soil with mild acidity (around 6.1 to 6.5 pH).
Irrigation: Aichryson laxum prefer moderately moist soil at their roots. These plants will thrive in humid atmosphere. Short showers are preferred to deep irrigation. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. They tolerate a cool, frost-free winter if kept fairly dry.
They are drought-tolerant plants protected by the hairy leaves.
Fertilising: The Aichryson laxum does not require much fertiliser. Two to three applications of a balanced fertiliser during the growing season will feed these succulents.
Propagation: Small tip cuttings root easily if taken in spring or summer. Take shoots 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long, strip them of their lower leaves and plant them in a slightly moistened potting mixture of equal parts peat moss and coarse sand or perlite. Give the cuttings bright light and just enough water to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Rooting should take place in three to four weeks. When rooted, plant the cuttings in 8cm (3 inch) pots of soil-based mixture and treat them as adult plants.
Seeds are produced in abundance and will easily sow themselves.
Problems:
If too many leaves seems to be falling, it may be happening because Aichryson laxum plants are probably getting to much hot, dry air or scorching sun.
Treatment: Move them to a more suitable position.
Lifespan: Aichryson laxum tends to behave like an annual or biennial. This plant may die after flowering – but by no means always.
Uses and display: Aichryson laxum plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds. As succulent plant, it is suitable for xeriscaping or rockeries, suitable for shaded parts of the landscape. Also it is used as houseplant. Consider growing it as part of a cactus or succulent display.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 30-45cm (12-18 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – bright
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-12
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0
文章
ritau
2020年09月01日
Yam is the common name for some plant species in the genus Dioscorea (family Dioscoreaceae) that form edible tubers. Yams are perennial herbaceous vines cultivated for the consumption of their starchy tubers in many temperate and tropical regions, especially in Africa, South America and the Caribbean, Asia, and Oceania. The tubers themselves, also called "yams", come in a variety of forms owing to numerous cultivars and related species.
The name "yam" appears to derive from Portuguese inhame or Canarian (Spain) ñame, which derived from West African languages during trade. Although in both languages, this name is commonly referred to the plant taro (Colocasia esculenta) from the genus Colocasia, as opposed to Dioscorea.
The main derivations borrow from verbs meaning "to eat". True yams have various common names across multiple world regions.
A monocot related to lilies and grasses, yams are vigorous herbaceous vines providing an edible tuber. They are native to Africa, Asia, and the Americas. Some yams are also invasive plants, often considered a "noxious weed", outside cultivated areas. Some 870 species of yams are known, and 95% of these crops are grown in Africa.
Yam plants can grow up to 15 m (49 ft) in length and 7.6 to 15.2 cm (3 to 6 in) high. The tuber may grow into the soil up to 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) deep. The plant disperses by seed.
The edible tuber has a rough skin that is difficult to peel but readily softened by heating. The skins vary in color from dark brown to light pink. The majority of the vegetable is composed of a much softer substance known as the "meat". This substance ranges in color from white or yellow to purple or pink in mature yams.
A monocot related to lilies and grasses, yams are vigorous herbaceous vines providing an edible tuber.They are native to Africa, Asia, and the Americas. Some yams are also invasive plants, often considered a "noxious weed", outside cultivated areas. Some 870 species of yams are known, and 95% of these crops are grown in Africa.
Yam plants can grow up to 15 m (49 ft) in length and 7.6 to 15.2 cm (3 to 6 in) high.The tuber may grow into the soil up to 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) deep.The plant disperses by seed.
The edible tuber has a rough skin that is difficult to peel but readily softened by heating. The skins vary in color from dark brown to light pink. The majority of the vegetable is composed of a much softer substance known as the "meat". This substance ranges in color from white or yellow to purple or pink in mature yams.
Raw yam has only moderate nutrient density, with appreciable content (10% or more of the Daily Value, DV) limited to potassium, vitamin B6, manganese, thiamin, dietary fiber, and vitamin C (table). But raw yam has the highest potassium levels amongst the 10 major staple foods of the world (see nutritional chart). Yam supplies 118 calories per 100 grams. Yam generally has a lower glycemic index, about 54% of glucose per 150 gram serving, compared to potato products.
The protein content and quality of roots and tubers is lower than other food staples, with the content of yam and potato being around 2% on a fresh-weight basis. Yams, with cassava, provide a much greater proportion of the protein intake in Africa, ranging from 5.9% in East and South Africa to about 15.9% in humid West Africa.
As a relatively low-protein food, yam is not a good source of essential amino acids. Experts emphasize the need to supplement a yam-dominant diet with more protein-rich foods to support healthy growth in children.
Yam is an important dietary element for Nigerian and West African people. It contributes more than 200 calories per person per day for more than 150 million people in West Africa, and is an important source of income. Yam is an attractive crop in poor farms with limited resources. It is rich in starch, and can be prepared in many ways. It is available all year round, unlike other, unreliable, seasonal crops. These characteristics make yam a preferred food and a culturally important food security crop in some sub-Saharan African countries.
The name "yam" appears to derive from Portuguese inhame or Canarian (Spain) ñame, which derived from West African languages during trade. Although in both languages, this name is commonly referred to the plant taro (Colocasia esculenta) from the genus Colocasia, as opposed to Dioscorea.
The main derivations borrow from verbs meaning "to eat". True yams have various common names across multiple world regions.
A monocot related to lilies and grasses, yams are vigorous herbaceous vines providing an edible tuber. They are native to Africa, Asia, and the Americas. Some yams are also invasive plants, often considered a "noxious weed", outside cultivated areas. Some 870 species of yams are known, and 95% of these crops are grown in Africa.
Yam plants can grow up to 15 m (49 ft) in length and 7.6 to 15.2 cm (3 to 6 in) high. The tuber may grow into the soil up to 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) deep. The plant disperses by seed.
The edible tuber has a rough skin that is difficult to peel but readily softened by heating. The skins vary in color from dark brown to light pink. The majority of the vegetable is composed of a much softer substance known as the "meat". This substance ranges in color from white or yellow to purple or pink in mature yams.
A monocot related to lilies and grasses, yams are vigorous herbaceous vines providing an edible tuber.They are native to Africa, Asia, and the Americas. Some yams are also invasive plants, often considered a "noxious weed", outside cultivated areas. Some 870 species of yams are known, and 95% of these crops are grown in Africa.
Yam plants can grow up to 15 m (49 ft) in length and 7.6 to 15.2 cm (3 to 6 in) high.The tuber may grow into the soil up to 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) deep.The plant disperses by seed.
The edible tuber has a rough skin that is difficult to peel but readily softened by heating. The skins vary in color from dark brown to light pink. The majority of the vegetable is composed of a much softer substance known as the "meat". This substance ranges in color from white or yellow to purple or pink in mature yams.
Raw yam has only moderate nutrient density, with appreciable content (10% or more of the Daily Value, DV) limited to potassium, vitamin B6, manganese, thiamin, dietary fiber, and vitamin C (table). But raw yam has the highest potassium levels amongst the 10 major staple foods of the world (see nutritional chart). Yam supplies 118 calories per 100 grams. Yam generally has a lower glycemic index, about 54% of glucose per 150 gram serving, compared to potato products.
The protein content and quality of roots and tubers is lower than other food staples, with the content of yam and potato being around 2% on a fresh-weight basis. Yams, with cassava, provide a much greater proportion of the protein intake in Africa, ranging from 5.9% in East and South Africa to about 15.9% in humid West Africa.
As a relatively low-protein food, yam is not a good source of essential amino acids. Experts emphasize the need to supplement a yam-dominant diet with more protein-rich foods to support healthy growth in children.
Yam is an important dietary element for Nigerian and West African people. It contributes more than 200 calories per person per day for more than 150 million people in West Africa, and is an important source of income. Yam is an attractive crop in poor farms with limited resources. It is rich in starch, and can be prepared in many ways. It is available all year round, unlike other, unreliable, seasonal crops. These characteristics make yam a preferred food and a culturally important food security crop in some sub-Saharan African countries.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年08月19日
A mango is a juicy stone fruit (drupe) produced from numerous species of tropical trees belonging to the flowering plant genus Mangifera, cultivated mostly for their edible fruit. Most of these species are found in nature as wild mangoes. The genus belongs to the cashew family Anacardiaceae. Mangoes are native to South Asia, from where the "common mango" or "Indian mango", Mangifera indica, has been distributed worldwide to become one of the most widely cultivated fruits in the tropics. Other Mangifera species (e.g. horse mango, Mangifera foetida) are grown on a more localized basis.
Worldwide, there are several hundred cultivars of mango. Depending on the cultivar, mango fruit varies in size, shape, sweetness, skin color, and flesh color which may be pale yellow, gold, or orange. Mango is the national fruit of India, Haiti, and the Philippines, and the national tree of Bangladesh. It is the summer national fruit of Pakistan.
The English word "mango" (plural "mangoes" or "mangos") originated from the Tamil word manga (or mangga) during the spice trade period with South India in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Mango trees grow to 35–40 m (115–131 ft) tall, with a crown radius of 10 m (33 ft). The trees are long-lived, as some specimens still fruit after 300 years. In deep soil, the taproot descends to a depth of 6 m (20 ft), with profuse, wide-spreading feeder roots and anchor roots penetrating deeply into the soil. The leaves are evergreen, alternate, simple, 15–35 cm (5.9–13.8 in) long, and 6–16 cm (2.4–6.3 in) broad; when the leaves are young they are orange-pink, rapidly changing to a dark, glossy red, then dark green as they mature. The flowers are produced in terminal panicles 10–40 cm (3.9–15.7 in) long; each flower is small and white with five petals 5–10 mm (0.20–0.39 in) long, with a mild, sweet fragrance. Over 500 varieties of mangoes are known, many of which ripen in summer, while some give a double crop. The fruit takes four to five months from flowering to ripen.
The ripe fruit varies according to cultivar in size, shape, color, sweetness, and eating quality. Depending on cultivar, fruits are variously yellow, orange, red, or green. The fruit has a single flat, oblong pit that can be fibrous or hairy on the surface, and does not separate easily from the pulp. The fruits may be somewhat round, oval, or kidney-shaped, ranging from 5–25 centimetres (2–10 in) in length and from 140 grams (5 oz) to 2 kilograms (5 lb) in weight per individual fruit. The skin is leather-like, waxy, smooth, and fragrant, with color ranging from green to yellow, yellow-orange, yellow-red, or blushed with various shades of red, purple, pink or yellow when fully ripe.
Ripe intact mangoes give off a distinctive resinous, sweet smell. Inside the pit 1–2 mm (0.039–0.079 in) thick is a thin lining covering a single seed, 4–7 cm (1.6–2.8 in) long. Mangoes have recalcitrant seeds which do not survive freezing and drying. Mango trees grow readily from seeds, with germination success highest when seeds are obtained from mature fruits.
Mangoes are generally sweet, although the taste and texture of the flesh varies across cultivars; some, such as Alphonso, have a soft, pulpy, juicy texture similar to an overripe plum, while others, such as Tommy Atkins, are firmer, like a cantaloupe or avocado, with a fibrous texture.
The skin of unripe, pickled, or cooked mango can be eaten, but it has the potential to cause contact dermatitis of the lips, gingiva, or tongue in susceptible people.
Mangoes are widely used in cuisine. Sour, unripe mangoes are used in chutneys, pickles, dhals and other side dishes in Bengali cuisine, or may be eaten raw with salt, chili, or soy sauce. A summer drink called aam panna comes from mangoes. Mango pulp made into jelly or cooked with red gram dhal and green chillies may be served with cooked rice. Mango lassi is popular throughout South Asia, prepared by mixing ripe mangoes or mango pulp with buttermilk and sugar. Ripe mangoes are also used to make curries. Aamras is a popular thick juice made of mangoes with sugar or milk, and is consumed with chapatis or pooris. The pulp from ripe mangoes is also used to make jam called mangada. Andhra aavakaaya is a pickle made from raw, unripe, pulpy, and sour mango, mixed with chili powder, fenugreek seeds, mustard powder, salt, and groundnut oil. Mango is also used in Andhra Pradesh to make dahl preparations. Gujaratis use mango to make chunda (a spicy, grated mango delicacy).
Mangoes are used to make murabba (fruit preserves), muramba (a sweet, grated mango delicacy), amchur (dried and powdered unripe mango), and pickles, including a spicy mustard-oil pickle and alcohol. Ripe mangoes are often cut into thin layers, desiccated, folded, and then cut. These bars are similar to dried guava fruit bars available in some countries. The fruit is also added to cereal products such as muesli and oat granola. Mangoes are often prepared charred in Hawaii.
Unripe mango may be eaten with bagoong (especially in the Philippines), fish sauce, vinegar, soy sauce, or with dash of salt (plain or spicy). Dried strips of sweet, ripe mango (sometimes combined with seedless tamarind to form mangorind) are also popular. Mangoes may be used to make juices, mango nectar, and as a flavoring and major ingredient in ice cream and sorbetes.
Mango is used to make juices, smoothies, ice cream, fruit bars, raspados, aguas frescas, pies, and sweet chili sauce, or mixed with chamoy, a sweet and spicy chili paste. It is popular on a stick dipped in hot chili powder and salt or as a main ingredient in fresh fruit combinations. In Central America, mango is either eaten green mixed with salt, vinegar, black pepper, and hot sauce, or ripe in various forms.
Pieces of mango can be mashed and used as a topping on ice cream or blended with milk and ice as milkshakes. Sweet glutinous rice is flavored with coconut, then served with sliced mango as a dessert. In other parts of Southeast Asia, mangoes are pickled with fish sauce and rice vinegar. Green mangoes can be used in mango salad with fish sauce and dried shrimp. Mango with condensed milk may be used as a topping for shaved ice.
The energy value per 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of the common mango is 250 kJ (60 kcal), and that of the apple mango is slightly higher (330 kJ (79 kcal) per 100 g). Fresh mango contains a variety of nutrients (right table), but only vitamin C and folate are in significant amounts of the Daily Value as 44% and 11%, respectively.
The mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. It is also the national tree of Bangladesh. In India, harvest and sale of mangoes is during March–May and this is annually covered by news agencies.
The mango has a traditional context in the culture of South Asia. In his edicts, the Mauryan emperor Ashoka references the planting of fruit- and shade-bearing trees along imperial roads:
"On the roads banyan-trees were caused to be planted by me, (in order that) they might afford shade to cattle and men, (and) mango-groves were caused to be planted."
In medieval India, the Indo-Persian poet Amir Khusrow termed the mango "Naghza Tarin Mewa Hindustan" – "the fairest fruit of Hindustan". Mangoes were enjoyed at the court of the Delhi Sultan Alauddin Khijli, and the Mughal Empire was especially fond of the fruits: Babur praises the mango in his Babarnameh, while Sher Shah Suri inaugurated the creation of the Chaunsa variety after his victory over the Mughal emperor Humayun. Mughal patronage to horticulture led to the grafting of thousands of mangoes varieties, including the famous Totapuri, which was the first variety to be exported to Iran and Central Asia. Akbar (1556–1605) is said to have planted a mango orchard of 100,000 trees at Lakhi Bagh in Darbhanga, Bihar,while Jahangir and Shah Jahan ordered the planting of mango-orchards in Lahore and Delhi and the creation of mango-based desserts.
The Jain goddess Ambika is traditionally represented as sitting under a mango tree. Mango blossoms are also used in the worship of the goddess Saraswati. Mango leaves are used to decorate archways and doors in Indian houses and during weddings and celebrations such as Ganesh Chaturthi. Mango motifs and paisleys are widely used in different Indian embroidery styles, and are found in Kashmiri shawls, Kanchipuram and silk sarees. In Tamil Nadu, the mango is referred to as one of the three royal fruits, along with banana and jackfruit, for their sweetness and flavor.This triad of fruits is referred to as ma-pala-vazhai. The classical Sanskrit poet Kālidāsa sang the praises of mangoes.
Mangoes were popularized in China during the Cultural Revolution as symbols of Chairman Mao Zedong's love for the people.
Worldwide, there are several hundred cultivars of mango. Depending on the cultivar, mango fruit varies in size, shape, sweetness, skin color, and flesh color which may be pale yellow, gold, or orange. Mango is the national fruit of India, Haiti, and the Philippines, and the national tree of Bangladesh. It is the summer national fruit of Pakistan.
The English word "mango" (plural "mangoes" or "mangos") originated from the Tamil word manga (or mangga) during the spice trade period with South India in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Mango trees grow to 35–40 m (115–131 ft) tall, with a crown radius of 10 m (33 ft). The trees are long-lived, as some specimens still fruit after 300 years. In deep soil, the taproot descends to a depth of 6 m (20 ft), with profuse, wide-spreading feeder roots and anchor roots penetrating deeply into the soil. The leaves are evergreen, alternate, simple, 15–35 cm (5.9–13.8 in) long, and 6–16 cm (2.4–6.3 in) broad; when the leaves are young they are orange-pink, rapidly changing to a dark, glossy red, then dark green as they mature. The flowers are produced in terminal panicles 10–40 cm (3.9–15.7 in) long; each flower is small and white with five petals 5–10 mm (0.20–0.39 in) long, with a mild, sweet fragrance. Over 500 varieties of mangoes are known, many of which ripen in summer, while some give a double crop. The fruit takes four to five months from flowering to ripen.
The ripe fruit varies according to cultivar in size, shape, color, sweetness, and eating quality. Depending on cultivar, fruits are variously yellow, orange, red, or green. The fruit has a single flat, oblong pit that can be fibrous or hairy on the surface, and does not separate easily from the pulp. The fruits may be somewhat round, oval, or kidney-shaped, ranging from 5–25 centimetres (2–10 in) in length and from 140 grams (5 oz) to 2 kilograms (5 lb) in weight per individual fruit. The skin is leather-like, waxy, smooth, and fragrant, with color ranging from green to yellow, yellow-orange, yellow-red, or blushed with various shades of red, purple, pink or yellow when fully ripe.
Ripe intact mangoes give off a distinctive resinous, sweet smell. Inside the pit 1–2 mm (0.039–0.079 in) thick is a thin lining covering a single seed, 4–7 cm (1.6–2.8 in) long. Mangoes have recalcitrant seeds which do not survive freezing and drying. Mango trees grow readily from seeds, with germination success highest when seeds are obtained from mature fruits.
Mangoes are generally sweet, although the taste and texture of the flesh varies across cultivars; some, such as Alphonso, have a soft, pulpy, juicy texture similar to an overripe plum, while others, such as Tommy Atkins, are firmer, like a cantaloupe or avocado, with a fibrous texture.
The skin of unripe, pickled, or cooked mango can be eaten, but it has the potential to cause contact dermatitis of the lips, gingiva, or tongue in susceptible people.
Mangoes are widely used in cuisine. Sour, unripe mangoes are used in chutneys, pickles, dhals and other side dishes in Bengali cuisine, or may be eaten raw with salt, chili, or soy sauce. A summer drink called aam panna comes from mangoes. Mango pulp made into jelly or cooked with red gram dhal and green chillies may be served with cooked rice. Mango lassi is popular throughout South Asia, prepared by mixing ripe mangoes or mango pulp with buttermilk and sugar. Ripe mangoes are also used to make curries. Aamras is a popular thick juice made of mangoes with sugar or milk, and is consumed with chapatis or pooris. The pulp from ripe mangoes is also used to make jam called mangada. Andhra aavakaaya is a pickle made from raw, unripe, pulpy, and sour mango, mixed with chili powder, fenugreek seeds, mustard powder, salt, and groundnut oil. Mango is also used in Andhra Pradesh to make dahl preparations. Gujaratis use mango to make chunda (a spicy, grated mango delicacy).
Mangoes are used to make murabba (fruit preserves), muramba (a sweet, grated mango delicacy), amchur (dried and powdered unripe mango), and pickles, including a spicy mustard-oil pickle and alcohol. Ripe mangoes are often cut into thin layers, desiccated, folded, and then cut. These bars are similar to dried guava fruit bars available in some countries. The fruit is also added to cereal products such as muesli and oat granola. Mangoes are often prepared charred in Hawaii.
Unripe mango may be eaten with bagoong (especially in the Philippines), fish sauce, vinegar, soy sauce, or with dash of salt (plain or spicy). Dried strips of sweet, ripe mango (sometimes combined with seedless tamarind to form mangorind) are also popular. Mangoes may be used to make juices, mango nectar, and as a flavoring and major ingredient in ice cream and sorbetes.
Mango is used to make juices, smoothies, ice cream, fruit bars, raspados, aguas frescas, pies, and sweet chili sauce, or mixed with chamoy, a sweet and spicy chili paste. It is popular on a stick dipped in hot chili powder and salt or as a main ingredient in fresh fruit combinations. In Central America, mango is either eaten green mixed with salt, vinegar, black pepper, and hot sauce, or ripe in various forms.
Pieces of mango can be mashed and used as a topping on ice cream or blended with milk and ice as milkshakes. Sweet glutinous rice is flavored with coconut, then served with sliced mango as a dessert. In other parts of Southeast Asia, mangoes are pickled with fish sauce and rice vinegar. Green mangoes can be used in mango salad with fish sauce and dried shrimp. Mango with condensed milk may be used as a topping for shaved ice.
The energy value per 100 g (3.5 oz) serving of the common mango is 250 kJ (60 kcal), and that of the apple mango is slightly higher (330 kJ (79 kcal) per 100 g). Fresh mango contains a variety of nutrients (right table), but only vitamin C and folate are in significant amounts of the Daily Value as 44% and 11%, respectively.
The mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. It is also the national tree of Bangladesh. In India, harvest and sale of mangoes is during March–May and this is annually covered by news agencies.
The mango has a traditional context in the culture of South Asia. In his edicts, the Mauryan emperor Ashoka references the planting of fruit- and shade-bearing trees along imperial roads:
"On the roads banyan-trees were caused to be planted by me, (in order that) they might afford shade to cattle and men, (and) mango-groves were caused to be planted."
In medieval India, the Indo-Persian poet Amir Khusrow termed the mango "Naghza Tarin Mewa Hindustan" – "the fairest fruit of Hindustan". Mangoes were enjoyed at the court of the Delhi Sultan Alauddin Khijli, and the Mughal Empire was especially fond of the fruits: Babur praises the mango in his Babarnameh, while Sher Shah Suri inaugurated the creation of the Chaunsa variety after his victory over the Mughal emperor Humayun. Mughal patronage to horticulture led to the grafting of thousands of mangoes varieties, including the famous Totapuri, which was the first variety to be exported to Iran and Central Asia. Akbar (1556–1605) is said to have planted a mango orchard of 100,000 trees at Lakhi Bagh in Darbhanga, Bihar,while Jahangir and Shah Jahan ordered the planting of mango-orchards in Lahore and Delhi and the creation of mango-based desserts.
The Jain goddess Ambika is traditionally represented as sitting under a mango tree. Mango blossoms are also used in the worship of the goddess Saraswati. Mango leaves are used to decorate archways and doors in Indian houses and during weddings and celebrations such as Ganesh Chaturthi. Mango motifs and paisleys are widely used in different Indian embroidery styles, and are found in Kashmiri shawls, Kanchipuram and silk sarees. In Tamil Nadu, the mango is referred to as one of the three royal fruits, along with banana and jackfruit, for their sweetness and flavor.This triad of fruits is referred to as ma-pala-vazhai. The classical Sanskrit poet Kālidāsa sang the praises of mangoes.
Mangoes were popularized in China during the Cultural Revolution as symbols of Chairman Mao Zedong's love for the people.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年07月24日
The orange is the fruit of various citrus species in the family Rutaceae (see list of plants known as orange); it primarily refers to Citrus × sinensis, which is also called sweet orange, to distinguish it from the related Citrus × aurantium, referred to as bitter orange. The sweet orange reproduces asexually (apomixis through nucellar embryony); varieties of sweet orange arise through mutations.
The orange is a hybrid between pomelo (Citrus maxima) and mandarin (Citrus reticulata). The chloroplast genome, and therefore the maternal line, is that of pomelo. The sweet orange has had its full genome sequenced.
All citrus trees belong to the single genus Citrus and remain almost entirely interfertile. This includes grapefruits, lemons, limes, oranges, and various other types and hybrids. As the interfertility of oranges and other citrus has produced numerous hybrids and cultivars, and bud mutations have also been selected, citrus taxonomy is fairly controversial, confusing or inconsistent. The fruit of any citrus tree is considered a hesperidium, a kind of modified berry; it is covered by a rind originated by a rugged thickening of the ovary wall.
Different names have been given to the many varieties of the species. Orange applies primarily to the sweet orange – Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck. The orange tree is an evergreen, flowering tree, with an average height of 9 to 10 m (30 to 33 ft), although some very old specimens can reach 15 m (49 ft). Its oval leaves, alternately arranged, are 4 to 10 cm (1.6 to 3.9 in) long and have crenulate margins. Sweet oranges grow in a range of different sizes, and shapes varying from spherical to oblong. Inside and attached to the rind is a porous white tissue, the white, bitter mesocarp or albedo (pith).The orange contains a number of distinct carpels (segments) inside, typically about ten, each delimited by a membrane, and containing many juice-filled vesicles and usually a few seeds (pips). When unripe, the fruit is green. The grainy irregular rind of the ripe fruit can range from bright orange to yellow-orange, but frequently retains green patches or, under warm climate conditions, remains entirely green. Like all other citrus fruits, the sweet orange is non-climacteric. The Citrus sinensis group is subdivided into four classes with distinct characteristics: common oranges, blood or pigmented oranges, navel oranges, and acidless oranges.
As with other citrus fruits, orange pulp is an excellent source of vitamin C, providing 64% of the Daily Value in a 100 g serving (right table). Numerous other essential nutrients are present in low amounts (right table).
Oranges contain diverse phytochemicals, including carotenoids (beta-carotene, lutein and beta-cryptoxanthin), flavonoids (e.g. naringenin) and numerous volatile organic compounds producing orange aroma, including aldehydes, esters, terpenes, alcohols, and ketones.
Orange squeezer for making juice
Orange juice contains only about one-fifth the citric acid of lime or lemon juice (which contain about 47 g/l).
The orange is a hybrid between pomelo (Citrus maxima) and mandarin (Citrus reticulata). The chloroplast genome, and therefore the maternal line, is that of pomelo. The sweet orange has had its full genome sequenced.
All citrus trees belong to the single genus Citrus and remain almost entirely interfertile. This includes grapefruits, lemons, limes, oranges, and various other types and hybrids. As the interfertility of oranges and other citrus has produced numerous hybrids and cultivars, and bud mutations have also been selected, citrus taxonomy is fairly controversial, confusing or inconsistent. The fruit of any citrus tree is considered a hesperidium, a kind of modified berry; it is covered by a rind originated by a rugged thickening of the ovary wall.
Different names have been given to the many varieties of the species. Orange applies primarily to the sweet orange – Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck. The orange tree is an evergreen, flowering tree, with an average height of 9 to 10 m (30 to 33 ft), although some very old specimens can reach 15 m (49 ft). Its oval leaves, alternately arranged, are 4 to 10 cm (1.6 to 3.9 in) long and have crenulate margins. Sweet oranges grow in a range of different sizes, and shapes varying from spherical to oblong. Inside and attached to the rind is a porous white tissue, the white, bitter mesocarp or albedo (pith).The orange contains a number of distinct carpels (segments) inside, typically about ten, each delimited by a membrane, and containing many juice-filled vesicles and usually a few seeds (pips). When unripe, the fruit is green. The grainy irregular rind of the ripe fruit can range from bright orange to yellow-orange, but frequently retains green patches or, under warm climate conditions, remains entirely green. Like all other citrus fruits, the sweet orange is non-climacteric. The Citrus sinensis group is subdivided into four classes with distinct characteristics: common oranges, blood or pigmented oranges, navel oranges, and acidless oranges.
As with other citrus fruits, orange pulp is an excellent source of vitamin C, providing 64% of the Daily Value in a 100 g serving (right table). Numerous other essential nutrients are present in low amounts (right table).
Oranges contain diverse phytochemicals, including carotenoids (beta-carotene, lutein and beta-cryptoxanthin), flavonoids (e.g. naringenin) and numerous volatile organic compounds producing orange aroma, including aldehydes, esters, terpenes, alcohols, and ketones.
Orange squeezer for making juice
Orange juice contains only about one-fifth the citric acid of lime or lemon juice (which contain about 47 g/l).
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0
文章
ritau
2020年07月13日
Jasmine is a genus of shrubs and vines in the olive family (Oleaceae). It contains around 200 species native to tropical and warm temperate regions of Eurasia and Oceania. Jasmines are widely cultivated for the characteristic fragrance of their flowers. A number of unrelated plants contain the word "Jasmine" in their common names.
Jasmines are native to tropical and subtropical regions of Eurasia, Australasia and Oceania, although only one of the 200 species is native to Europe.Their center of diversity is in South Asia and Southeast Asia.
A number of jasmine species have become naturalized in Mediterranean Europe. For example, the so-called Spanish jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) was originally from West Asia and Indian subcontinent, and is now naturalized in the Iberian peninsula.
Jasminum fluminense (which is sometimes known by the inaccurate name "Brazilian Jasmine") and Jasminum dichotomum (Gold Coast Jasmine) are invasive species in Hawaii and Florida. Jasminum polyanthum, also known as White Jasmine, is an invasive weed in Australia.
Widely cultivated for its flowers, jasmine is enjoyed in the garden, as a houseplant, and as cut flowers. The flowers are worn by women in their hair in South and South East Asia.
*Jasmine tea
Green tea with jasmine flowers
Jasmine tea is often consumed in China, where it is called jasmine-flower tea (茉莉花茶; pinyin: mò lì huā chá). Jasminum sambac flowers are also used to make jasmine tea, which often has a base of green tea or white tea, but sometimes an Oolong base is used. The flowers are put in machines that control temperature and humidity. It takes about four hours for the tea to absorb the fragrance and flavour of the jasmine blossoms. For the highest grades of jasmine tea, this process may be repeated up to seven times. As the tea absorbs moisture from the fresh Jasmine flowers, it must be refired to prevent spoilage. The used flowers may be removed from the final product, as the flowers contain no more aroma. Giant fans are used to blow away and remove the petals from the denser tea leaves.
In Okinawa, Japan, jasmine tea is known as sanpin cha.
*Jasmonates
Jasmine gave name to the jasmonate plant hormones, as methyl jasmonate isolated from the oil of Jasminum grandiflorum led to the discovery of the molecular structure of jasmonates. Jasmonates occur ubiquitously across the plant kingdom, having key roles in responses to environmental cues, such as heat or cold stress, and participate in the signal transduction pathways of many plants.
*Plantation
Jasmine plantation is usually done using the stem of an existing plant, or one having roots. In rare occasions, the flowers bear dark purple fruits with seeds. The seeds will germinate when sowed and nurtured properly. The flowering shrubs are usually trimmed pre-summer, as fresh branches grow and bear flowers during the summer.
Jasmines are native to tropical and subtropical regions of Eurasia, Australasia and Oceania, although only one of the 200 species is native to Europe.Their center of diversity is in South Asia and Southeast Asia.
A number of jasmine species have become naturalized in Mediterranean Europe. For example, the so-called Spanish jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) was originally from West Asia and Indian subcontinent, and is now naturalized in the Iberian peninsula.
Jasminum fluminense (which is sometimes known by the inaccurate name "Brazilian Jasmine") and Jasminum dichotomum (Gold Coast Jasmine) are invasive species in Hawaii and Florida. Jasminum polyanthum, also known as White Jasmine, is an invasive weed in Australia.
Widely cultivated for its flowers, jasmine is enjoyed in the garden, as a houseplant, and as cut flowers. The flowers are worn by women in their hair in South and South East Asia.
*Jasmine tea
Green tea with jasmine flowers
Jasmine tea is often consumed in China, where it is called jasmine-flower tea (茉莉花茶; pinyin: mò lì huā chá). Jasminum sambac flowers are also used to make jasmine tea, which often has a base of green tea or white tea, but sometimes an Oolong base is used. The flowers are put in machines that control temperature and humidity. It takes about four hours for the tea to absorb the fragrance and flavour of the jasmine blossoms. For the highest grades of jasmine tea, this process may be repeated up to seven times. As the tea absorbs moisture from the fresh Jasmine flowers, it must be refired to prevent spoilage. The used flowers may be removed from the final product, as the flowers contain no more aroma. Giant fans are used to blow away and remove the petals from the denser tea leaves.
In Okinawa, Japan, jasmine tea is known as sanpin cha.
*Jasmonates
Jasmine gave name to the jasmonate plant hormones, as methyl jasmonate isolated from the oil of Jasminum grandiflorum led to the discovery of the molecular structure of jasmonates. Jasmonates occur ubiquitously across the plant kingdom, having key roles in responses to environmental cues, such as heat or cold stress, and participate in the signal transduction pathways of many plants.
*Plantation
Jasmine plantation is usually done using the stem of an existing plant, or one having roots. In rare occasions, the flowers bear dark purple fruits with seeds. The seeds will germinate when sowed and nurtured properly. The flowering shrubs are usually trimmed pre-summer, as fresh branches grow and bear flowers during the summer.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年07月09日
The durian is the fruit of several tree species belonging to the genus Durio. There are 30 recognised Durio species, at least nine of which produce edible fruit, with over 300 named varieties in Thailand and 100 in Malaysia, as of 1987. Durio zibethinus is the only species available in the international market: other species are sold in their local regions. It is native to Borneo and Sumatra.
Named in some regions as the "king of fruits", the durian is distinctive for its large size, strong odour, and thorn-covered rind. The fruit can grow as large as 30 centimetres (12 inches) long and 15 cm (6 in) in diameter, and it typically weighs 1 to 3 kilograms (2 to 7 pounds). Its shape ranges from oblong to round, the colour of its husk green to brown, and its flesh pale yellow to red, depending on the species.
Some people regard the durian as having a pleasantly sweet fragrance, whereas others find the aroma overpowering with an unpleasant odour. The smell evokes reactions from deep appreciation to intense disgust, and has been described variously as rotten onions, turpentine, and raw sewage. The persistence of its odour, which may linger for several days, has led to the fruit's banishment from certain hotels and public transportation in Southeast Asia. By contrast, the nineteenth-century British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace described its flesh as "a rich custard highly flavoured with almonds". The flesh can be consumed at various stages of ripeness, and it is used to flavour a wide variety of savoury and sweet desserts in Southeast Asian cuisines. The seeds can also be eaten when cooked.
The unusual flavour and odour of the fruit have prompted many people to express diverse and passionate views ranging from deep appreciation to intense disgust. Writing in 1856, the British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace provided a much-quoted description of the flavour of the durian:
The five cells are silky-white within, and are filled with a mass of firm, cream-coloured pulp, containing about three seeds each. This pulp is the edible part, and its consistence and flavour are indescribable. A rich custard highly flavoured with almonds gives the best general idea of it, but there are occasional wafts of flavour that call to mind cream-cheese, onion-sauce, sherry-wine, and other incongruous dishes. Then there is a rich glutinous smoothness in the pulp which nothing else possesses, but which adds to its delicacy. It is neither acidic nor sweet nor juicy; yet it wants neither of these qualities, for it is in itself perfect. It produces no nausea or other bad effect, and the more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop. In fact, to eat Durians is a new sensation worth a voyage to the East to experience. ... as producing a food of the most exquisite flavour it is unsurpassed.
Wallace described himself as being at first reluctant to try it because of the aroma, "but in Borneo I found a ripe fruit on the ground, and, eating it out of doors, I at once became a confirmed Durian eater". He cited one traveller from 1599: "it is of such an excellent taste that it surpasses in flavour all other fruits of the world, according to those who have tasted it." He cites another writer: "To those not used to it, it seems at first to smell like rotten onions, but immediately after they have tasted it they prefer it to all other food. The natives give it honourable titles, exalt it, and make verses on it." Despite having tried many foods that are arguably more eccentric, Andrew Zimmern, host of Bizarre Foods, was unable to finish a durian upon sampling it, due to his intolerance of its strong taste.
While Wallace cautions that "the smell of the ripe fruit is certainly at first disagreeable", later descriptions by Westerners are more graphic in detail. Novelist Anthony Burgess writes that eating durian is "like eating sweet raspberry blancmange in the lavatory". Travel and food writer Richard Sterling says:
its odor is best described as pig-excrement, turpentine and onions, garnished with a gym sock. It can be smelled from yards away. Despite its great local popularity, the raw fruit is forbidden from some establishments such as hotels, subways and airports, including public transportation in Southeast Asia.
Other comparisons have been made with the civet, sewage, stale vomit, skunk spray and used surgical swabs. The wide range of descriptions for the odour of durian may have a great deal to do with the variability of durian odour itself. Durians from different species or clones can have significantly different aromas; for example, red durian (D. dulcis) has a deep caramel flavour with a turpentine odour while red-fleshed durian (D. graveolens) emits a fragrance of roasted almonds. Among the varieties of D. zibethinus, Thai varieties are sweeter in flavour and less odorous than Malay ones. The degree of ripeness has an effect on the flavour as well.
In 2019, researchers from the Technical University of Munich identified ethanethiol and its derivatives as a reason for its stinky smell. However, the biochemical pathway by which the plant produces ethanethiol remained unclear such as the enzyme that releases ethanethiol.
The fruit's strong smell led to its ban from the subway in Singapore; it is not used in many hotels because of its pungency.
Raw durian is composed of 65% water, 27% carbohydrates (including 4% dietary fibre), 5% fat and 1% protein. In 100 grams, raw or fresh frozen durian provides 33% of the Daily Value (DV) of thiamine and moderate content of other B vitamins, vitamin C, and the dietary mineral manganese (15–24% DV, table). Different durian varieties from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia vary in their carbohydrate content by 16-29%, fat content by 2-5%, protein content by 2-4%, dietary fibre content by 1-4%, and caloric value by 84-185 kcal per 100 grams. The fatty acid composition of durian flesh is particularly rich in oleic acid and palmitic acid.
Named in some regions as the "king of fruits", the durian is distinctive for its large size, strong odour, and thorn-covered rind. The fruit can grow as large as 30 centimetres (12 inches) long and 15 cm (6 in) in diameter, and it typically weighs 1 to 3 kilograms (2 to 7 pounds). Its shape ranges from oblong to round, the colour of its husk green to brown, and its flesh pale yellow to red, depending on the species.
Some people regard the durian as having a pleasantly sweet fragrance, whereas others find the aroma overpowering with an unpleasant odour. The smell evokes reactions from deep appreciation to intense disgust, and has been described variously as rotten onions, turpentine, and raw sewage. The persistence of its odour, which may linger for several days, has led to the fruit's banishment from certain hotels and public transportation in Southeast Asia. By contrast, the nineteenth-century British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace described its flesh as "a rich custard highly flavoured with almonds". The flesh can be consumed at various stages of ripeness, and it is used to flavour a wide variety of savoury and sweet desserts in Southeast Asian cuisines. The seeds can also be eaten when cooked.
The unusual flavour and odour of the fruit have prompted many people to express diverse and passionate views ranging from deep appreciation to intense disgust. Writing in 1856, the British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace provided a much-quoted description of the flavour of the durian:
The five cells are silky-white within, and are filled with a mass of firm, cream-coloured pulp, containing about three seeds each. This pulp is the edible part, and its consistence and flavour are indescribable. A rich custard highly flavoured with almonds gives the best general idea of it, but there are occasional wafts of flavour that call to mind cream-cheese, onion-sauce, sherry-wine, and other incongruous dishes. Then there is a rich glutinous smoothness in the pulp which nothing else possesses, but which adds to its delicacy. It is neither acidic nor sweet nor juicy; yet it wants neither of these qualities, for it is in itself perfect. It produces no nausea or other bad effect, and the more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop. In fact, to eat Durians is a new sensation worth a voyage to the East to experience. ... as producing a food of the most exquisite flavour it is unsurpassed.
Wallace described himself as being at first reluctant to try it because of the aroma, "but in Borneo I found a ripe fruit on the ground, and, eating it out of doors, I at once became a confirmed Durian eater". He cited one traveller from 1599: "it is of such an excellent taste that it surpasses in flavour all other fruits of the world, according to those who have tasted it." He cites another writer: "To those not used to it, it seems at first to smell like rotten onions, but immediately after they have tasted it they prefer it to all other food. The natives give it honourable titles, exalt it, and make verses on it." Despite having tried many foods that are arguably more eccentric, Andrew Zimmern, host of Bizarre Foods, was unable to finish a durian upon sampling it, due to his intolerance of its strong taste.
While Wallace cautions that "the smell of the ripe fruit is certainly at first disagreeable", later descriptions by Westerners are more graphic in detail. Novelist Anthony Burgess writes that eating durian is "like eating sweet raspberry blancmange in the lavatory". Travel and food writer Richard Sterling says:
its odor is best described as pig-excrement, turpentine and onions, garnished with a gym sock. It can be smelled from yards away. Despite its great local popularity, the raw fruit is forbidden from some establishments such as hotels, subways and airports, including public transportation in Southeast Asia.
Other comparisons have been made with the civet, sewage, stale vomit, skunk spray and used surgical swabs. The wide range of descriptions for the odour of durian may have a great deal to do with the variability of durian odour itself. Durians from different species or clones can have significantly different aromas; for example, red durian (D. dulcis) has a deep caramel flavour with a turpentine odour while red-fleshed durian (D. graveolens) emits a fragrance of roasted almonds. Among the varieties of D. zibethinus, Thai varieties are sweeter in flavour and less odorous than Malay ones. The degree of ripeness has an effect on the flavour as well.
In 2019, researchers from the Technical University of Munich identified ethanethiol and its derivatives as a reason for its stinky smell. However, the biochemical pathway by which the plant produces ethanethiol remained unclear such as the enzyme that releases ethanethiol.
The fruit's strong smell led to its ban from the subway in Singapore; it is not used in many hotels because of its pungency.
Raw durian is composed of 65% water, 27% carbohydrates (including 4% dietary fibre), 5% fat and 1% protein. In 100 grams, raw or fresh frozen durian provides 33% of the Daily Value (DV) of thiamine and moderate content of other B vitamins, vitamin C, and the dietary mineral manganese (15–24% DV, table). Different durian varieties from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia vary in their carbohydrate content by 16-29%, fat content by 2-5%, protein content by 2-4%, dietary fibre content by 1-4%, and caloric value by 84-185 kcal per 100 grams. The fatty acid composition of durian flesh is particularly rich in oleic acid and palmitic acid.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年07月01日
Chamomile (American English) or camomile (British English) is the common name for several daisy-like plants of the family Asteraceae. Two of the species are commonly used to make herbal infusions for traditional medicine, and there is some evidence that chamomile has an effect on health.
The word "chamomile" derived via French and Latin from Greek χαμαίμηλον (khamaimēlon), "earth apple", from χαμαί (khamai) "on the ground" and μῆλον (mēlon) "apple". First used in the 13th century, the spelling "chamomile" corresponds to the Latin chamomilla and Greek chamaimelon. The spelling "camomile" is a British derivation from the French.
Some commonly used species include:
-Matricaria chamomilla Often called "German chamomile" or "Water of Youth",
-Chamaemelum nobile, Roman, English or garden chamomile, also frequently used, (C. nobile Treneague is normally used to create a chamomile lawn).
-A number of other species common names include the word "chamomile". This does not mean they are used in the same manner as the species used in the herbal tea known as "chamomile". Plants including the common name "chamomile", of the family Asteraceae, are:
*Chamomilla recutita, German Chamomile
*Anthemis arvensis, corn, scentless or field chamomile
*Anthemis cotula, stinking chamomile
*Cladanthus mixtus, Moroccan chamomile
*Chamaemelum nobile, Roman Chamomile
*Cota tinctoria, dyer's, golden, oxeye, or yellow chamomile
*Eriocephalus punctulatus, Cape chamomile
*Matricaria discoidea, wild chamomile or pineapple weed
*Tripleurospermum inodorum, wild, scentless or false chamomile
Chamomile tea is an herbal infusion made from dried flowers and hot water.Two types of chamomile used are German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Chamomile may be used as a flavoring agent in foods and beverages, mouthwash, soaps, or cosmetics. When used as an herbal product, such as in tea or as a topical skin cream, chamomile is not likely to have significant health effects or major side effects.
Use of chamomile has potential to cause adverse interactions with numerous herbal products and prescription drugs, and may worsen pollen allergies. Apigenin, a phytochemical in chamomile, may interact with anticoagulant agents and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, while other phytochemicals may adversely interact with sleep-enhancing herbal products and vitamins.
Chamomile is not recommended to be taken with aspirin or non-salicylate NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), as it may cause herb-drug interaction.
"Chamomile consists of several ingredients including coumarin, glycoside, herniarin, flavonoid, farnesol, nerolidol and germacranolide. Despite the presence of coumarin, as chamomile’s effect on the coagulation system has not yet been studied, it is unknown if a clinically significant drug-herb interaction exists with antiplatelet/anticoagulant drugs. However, until more information is available, it is not recommended to use these substances concurrently."
People who are allergic to ragweed (also in the daisy family) may be allergic to chamomile due to cross-reactivity. Chamomile should not be used by people with past or present cancers of the breast, ovary, uterus, endometriosis or uterine fibroids.
Chamomile has also historically been used in beer.Unlike tea, in which only the flowers are used, the whole plant has been used. The bitter taste is useful in beer, but it was also used for medicinal purposes. Modern craft breweries and homebrewers use chamomile, and there are several hundred commercially brewed beers with chamomile.
The word "chamomile" derived via French and Latin from Greek χαμαίμηλον (khamaimēlon), "earth apple", from χαμαί (khamai) "on the ground" and μῆλον (mēlon) "apple". First used in the 13th century, the spelling "chamomile" corresponds to the Latin chamomilla and Greek chamaimelon. The spelling "camomile" is a British derivation from the French.
Some commonly used species include:
-Matricaria chamomilla Often called "German chamomile" or "Water of Youth",
-Chamaemelum nobile, Roman, English or garden chamomile, also frequently used, (C. nobile Treneague is normally used to create a chamomile lawn).
-A number of other species common names include the word "chamomile". This does not mean they are used in the same manner as the species used in the herbal tea known as "chamomile". Plants including the common name "chamomile", of the family Asteraceae, are:
*Chamomilla recutita, German Chamomile
*Anthemis arvensis, corn, scentless or field chamomile
*Anthemis cotula, stinking chamomile
*Cladanthus mixtus, Moroccan chamomile
*Chamaemelum nobile, Roman Chamomile
*Cota tinctoria, dyer's, golden, oxeye, or yellow chamomile
*Eriocephalus punctulatus, Cape chamomile
*Matricaria discoidea, wild chamomile or pineapple weed
*Tripleurospermum inodorum, wild, scentless or false chamomile
Chamomile tea is an herbal infusion made from dried flowers and hot water.Two types of chamomile used are German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Chamomile may be used as a flavoring agent in foods and beverages, mouthwash, soaps, or cosmetics. When used as an herbal product, such as in tea or as a topical skin cream, chamomile is not likely to have significant health effects or major side effects.
Use of chamomile has potential to cause adverse interactions with numerous herbal products and prescription drugs, and may worsen pollen allergies. Apigenin, a phytochemical in chamomile, may interact with anticoagulant agents and nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, while other phytochemicals may adversely interact with sleep-enhancing herbal products and vitamins.
Chamomile is not recommended to be taken with aspirin or non-salicylate NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), as it may cause herb-drug interaction.
"Chamomile consists of several ingredients including coumarin, glycoside, herniarin, flavonoid, farnesol, nerolidol and germacranolide. Despite the presence of coumarin, as chamomile’s effect on the coagulation system has not yet been studied, it is unknown if a clinically significant drug-herb interaction exists with antiplatelet/anticoagulant drugs. However, until more information is available, it is not recommended to use these substances concurrently."
People who are allergic to ragweed (also in the daisy family) may be allergic to chamomile due to cross-reactivity. Chamomile should not be used by people with past or present cancers of the breast, ovary, uterus, endometriosis or uterine fibroids.
Chamomile has also historically been used in beer.Unlike tea, in which only the flowers are used, the whole plant has been used. The bitter taste is useful in beer, but it was also used for medicinal purposes. Modern craft breweries and homebrewers use chamomile, and there are several hundred commercially brewed beers with chamomile.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年06月09日
Dactylis glomerata, also known as cock's-foot, orchard grass, or cat grass (due to its popularity for use with domestic cats) is a common species of grass in the genus Dactylis. It is a cool-season perennial C3 bunchgrass native throughout most of Europe, temperate Asia, and northern Africa.
Cock's-foot grows in dense perennial tussocks to 20–140 cm (8–55 in) tall, with grey-green leaves 20–50 cm (8–20 in) long and up to 1.5 cm (5⁄8 in) broad, and a distinctive tufted triangular flowerhead 10–15 cm (4–6 in) long, which may be either green or red- to purple-tinged (usually green in shade, redder in full sun), turning pale grey-brown at seed maturity. The spikelets are 5–9 mm (0.20–0.35 in) long, typically containing two to five flowers. It has a characteristic flattened stem base which distinguishes it from many other grasses.It flowers from June to September.
Cats chew on grass to help get healthy vitamins, minerals, and enzymes, but an indoor cat doesn’t have access to your lawn. Luckily, cat grass is very easy to grow indoors so you can provide your cat the nourishment it needs. Cat grass is usually a mix of wheat, oat, barley, or rye, and can be grown in soil or with a water substrate. Once you have the grass pot set up, your cat can enjoy eating it whenever it wants!
*How to grow
1. Fill a pot with planting soil until it’s 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the rim. Use an organic potting soil, so it’s safe for your cat to dig into. Choose a pot with a wide opening on top so the grass can spread out as it grows. Avoid using any fertilizers in your pot since cat grass grows and dies within a few months.
2. Scatter seeds in the pot and cover them with a thin layer of topsoil. Spread the seeds evenly across the soil until it’s completely covered. It’s okay for the seeds to overlap since the grasses’ root systems don’t take up much room. Once your seeds are in the pot, cover them with about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) of soil.
Cat grass seed packs can be purchased from your local pet store, garden center or online.
You may soak the seeds in a bowl with water one day before you plant them to help speed up germination. The seeds will absorb the water and are more likely to sprout within a few days.
3. Mist the soil until it’s moist. Put water in a spray bottle and gently mist the topsoil. Keep spraying water onto the soil until it feels damp to the touch. Don’t leave any standing water on the surface or else your seeds may not grow.Don’t pour water directly into the pot since it might drown the seeds and prevent growth.
4. Cover the pot for 2-3 days with plastic wrap and keep it in a cool, dark place. Plastic wrap helps maintain a humid environment and encourages your grass to sprout quickly. After you cover the pot, use a toothpick to poke a few holes into the plastic wrap so air can circulate. Store the pot in a cool and dark place, such as a kitchen cabinet or closet. After three days or when you see sprouts, remove the plastic wrap.
5. Move the pot, so it gets natural light and waits ten days for the sprouts to grow. Set the pot in an area of your home that gets direct and indirect sunlight throughout the day, such as a windowsill. After about ten days, the grass will be fully grown and ready for your cat to chew on.
Cock's-foot grows in dense perennial tussocks to 20–140 cm (8–55 in) tall, with grey-green leaves 20–50 cm (8–20 in) long and up to 1.5 cm (5⁄8 in) broad, and a distinctive tufted triangular flowerhead 10–15 cm (4–6 in) long, which may be either green or red- to purple-tinged (usually green in shade, redder in full sun), turning pale grey-brown at seed maturity. The spikelets are 5–9 mm (0.20–0.35 in) long, typically containing two to five flowers. It has a characteristic flattened stem base which distinguishes it from many other grasses.It flowers from June to September.
Cats chew on grass to help get healthy vitamins, minerals, and enzymes, but an indoor cat doesn’t have access to your lawn. Luckily, cat grass is very easy to grow indoors so you can provide your cat the nourishment it needs. Cat grass is usually a mix of wheat, oat, barley, or rye, and can be grown in soil or with a water substrate. Once you have the grass pot set up, your cat can enjoy eating it whenever it wants!
*How to grow
1. Fill a pot with planting soil until it’s 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the rim. Use an organic potting soil, so it’s safe for your cat to dig into. Choose a pot with a wide opening on top so the grass can spread out as it grows. Avoid using any fertilizers in your pot since cat grass grows and dies within a few months.
2. Scatter seeds in the pot and cover them with a thin layer of topsoil. Spread the seeds evenly across the soil until it’s completely covered. It’s okay for the seeds to overlap since the grasses’ root systems don’t take up much room. Once your seeds are in the pot, cover them with about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) of soil.
Cat grass seed packs can be purchased from your local pet store, garden center or online.
You may soak the seeds in a bowl with water one day before you plant them to help speed up germination. The seeds will absorb the water and are more likely to sprout within a few days.
3. Mist the soil until it’s moist. Put water in a spray bottle and gently mist the topsoil. Keep spraying water onto the soil until it feels damp to the touch. Don’t leave any standing water on the surface or else your seeds may not grow.Don’t pour water directly into the pot since it might drown the seeds and prevent growth.
4. Cover the pot for 2-3 days with plastic wrap and keep it in a cool, dark place. Plastic wrap helps maintain a humid environment and encourages your grass to sprout quickly. After you cover the pot, use a toothpick to poke a few holes into the plastic wrap so air can circulate. Store the pot in a cool and dark place, such as a kitchen cabinet or closet. After three days or when you see sprouts, remove the plastic wrap.
5. Move the pot, so it gets natural light and waits ten days for the sprouts to grow. Set the pot in an area of your home that gets direct and indirect sunlight throughout the day, such as a windowsill. After about ten days, the grass will be fully grown and ready for your cat to chew on.
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文章
ritau
2020年06月07日
Mealybugs are insects in the family Pseudococcidae, unarmored scale insects found in moist, warm habitats. Many species are considered pests by some humans as they feed on plant juices of greenhouse plants, house plants and subtropical trees and also act as a vector for several plant diseases. Some Ants, however live in symbiotic relationships with them.
Methods
*Killing Small Infestations with Rubbing Alcohol
1. Dip a cotton swab in 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Avoid using other kinds of alcohol or you could damage the plant you’re treating.
2. Rub the cotton swab over the surface of the infested plant. Make sure you get underneath the leaves and inside the crevices on the branches. Mealybugs tend to hide in hard-to-reach places, so it’s important you completely cover the plant you’re treating with the rubbing alcohol.
3. Use a spray bottle to apply rubbing alcohol to large plants. Fill the spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and spray it over the surface of large plants that are infested with mealybugs.
4. Remove any mealybugs you see on the plant. Mealybugs look like small, white bugs with a waxy coating. Pick the mealybugs off with your hand and dispose of them in the trash. Mealybugs don't bite, but you may want to wear gardening gloves so you don't get their waxy coating on your fingers.
5. Repeat weekly until the mealybugs are gone. Since mealybugs are good at hiding in hard to reach places, you'll likely need to do multiple applications of rubbing alcohol before they're all killed. Even if you don't see anymore mealybugs, it's a good idea to do a few more applications just in case there are some lingering bugs.You'll know the mealybugs are gone when you can't see anymore on the plant and the plant remains healthy and green.
*Using Neem Oil for Potted or Shaded Plants
1. Mix together water, liquid dish soap, and neem oil in a spray bottle. Use 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of neem oil and 2-3 drops of dish soap. Neem oil is a vegetable oil that comes from neem trees that can be used to kill mealybugs.
2. Spray the plant you’re treating until it’s soaked. Make sure you spray underneath the leaves, at the base of the branches, and over the top of the soil the plant is in. You want the mealybugs to be completely smothered with the neem oil mixture.
3. Move the plant to a shaded area to dry. Don’t keep the plant in direct sunlight or extreme heat or it could burn. If you’re spraying outdoor plants that are rooted in the ground, wait for a shady day when it’s below 85 °F (29 °C) out.
4. Spray the plant weekly until the mealybugs are gone. One application of neem oil probably won’t kill all the mealybugs on the plant. Because mealybugs have a rapid lifecycle, you’ll need to routinely kill the newly-hatched bugs every week until all of the mealybugs have been killed off.
If the plant looks healthy and you don't see anymore mealybugs on it, they're most likely gone.
Methods
*Killing Small Infestations with Rubbing Alcohol
1. Dip a cotton swab in 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Avoid using other kinds of alcohol or you could damage the plant you’re treating.
2. Rub the cotton swab over the surface of the infested plant. Make sure you get underneath the leaves and inside the crevices on the branches. Mealybugs tend to hide in hard-to-reach places, so it’s important you completely cover the plant you’re treating with the rubbing alcohol.
3. Use a spray bottle to apply rubbing alcohol to large plants. Fill the spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and spray it over the surface of large plants that are infested with mealybugs.
4. Remove any mealybugs you see on the plant. Mealybugs look like small, white bugs with a waxy coating. Pick the mealybugs off with your hand and dispose of them in the trash. Mealybugs don't bite, but you may want to wear gardening gloves so you don't get their waxy coating on your fingers.
5. Repeat weekly until the mealybugs are gone. Since mealybugs are good at hiding in hard to reach places, you'll likely need to do multiple applications of rubbing alcohol before they're all killed. Even if you don't see anymore mealybugs, it's a good idea to do a few more applications just in case there are some lingering bugs.You'll know the mealybugs are gone when you can't see anymore on the plant and the plant remains healthy and green.
*Using Neem Oil for Potted or Shaded Plants
1. Mix together water, liquid dish soap, and neem oil in a spray bottle. Use 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of neem oil and 2-3 drops of dish soap. Neem oil is a vegetable oil that comes from neem trees that can be used to kill mealybugs.
2. Spray the plant you’re treating until it’s soaked. Make sure you spray underneath the leaves, at the base of the branches, and over the top of the soil the plant is in. You want the mealybugs to be completely smothered with the neem oil mixture.
3. Move the plant to a shaded area to dry. Don’t keep the plant in direct sunlight or extreme heat or it could burn. If you’re spraying outdoor plants that are rooted in the ground, wait for a shady day when it’s below 85 °F (29 °C) out.
4. Spray the plant weekly until the mealybugs are gone. One application of neem oil probably won’t kill all the mealybugs on the plant. Because mealybugs have a rapid lifecycle, you’ll need to routinely kill the newly-hatched bugs every week until all of the mealybugs have been killed off.
If the plant looks healthy and you don't see anymore mealybugs on it, they're most likely gone.
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0
文章
ritau
2020年06月04日
Kiwifruit (often shortened to kiwi outside Australia and New Zealand), or Chinese gooseberry, is the edible berry of several species of woody vines in the genus Actinidia. The most common cultivar group of kiwifruit (Actinidia deliciosa 'Hayward') is oval, about the size of a large hen's egg: 5–8 centimetres (2–3 inches) in length and 4.5–5.5 cm (1 3⁄4–2 1⁄4 in) in diameter. It has a thin, hair-like, fibrous, sour-but-edible light brown skin and light green or golden flesh with rows of tiny, black, edible seeds. The fruit has a soft texture with a sweet and unique flavour. In 2017, China produced 50% of the world total of kiwifruit.
Kiwifruit is native to central and eastern China. The first recorded description of the kiwifruit dates to the 12th century during the Song dynasty. In the early 20th century, cultivation of kiwifruit spread from China to New Zealand, where the first commercial plantings occurred. The fruit became popular with British and American servicemen stationed in New Zealand during World War II, and later became commonly exported, first to Great Britain and then to California in the 1960s.
Kiwifruit can be grown in most temperate climates with adequate summer heat. Where fuzzy kiwifruit is not hardy, other species can be grown as substitutes.
*Breeding
Often in commercial farming, different breeds are used for rootstock, fruit bearing plants and pollinators. Therefore, the seeds produced are crossbreeds of their parents. Even if the same breeds are used for pollinators and fruit bearing plants, there is no guarantee that the fruit will have the same quality as the parent. Additionally, seedlings take seven years before they flower, so determining whether the kiwi is fruit bearing or a pollinator is time-consuming. Therefore, most kiwifruits, with the exception of rootstock and new cultivars, are propagated asexually. This is done by grafting the fruit producing plant onto rootstock grown from seedlings or, if the plant is desired to be a true cultivar, rootstock grown from cuttings of a mature plant.
*Pollination
Kiwifruit flowering
Kiwifruit plants generally are dioecious, meaning a plant is either male or female. The male plants have flowers that produce pollen, the females receive the pollen to fertilise their ovules and grow fruit; most kiwifruit requires a male plant to pollinate the female plant. For a good yield of fruit, one male vine for every three to eight female vines is considered adequate. Some varieties can self pollinate, but even they produce a greater and more reliable yield when pollinated by male kiwifruit.Cross-species pollination is often (but not always) successful as long as bloom times are synchronised.
In nature, the species are pollinated by birds and native bumblebees, which visit the flowers for pollen, not nectar. The female flowers produce fake anthers with what appears to be pollen on the tips in order to attract the pollinators, although these fake anthers lack the DNA and food value of the male anthers.
Kiwifruit growers rely on honey bees, the principal ‘for-hire’ pollinator. But commercially grown kiwifruit is notoriously difficult to pollinate. The flowers are not very attractive to honey bees, in part because the flowers do not produce nectar and bees quickly learn to prefer flowers with nectar.
And for kiwifruit, honey bees are inefficient cross-pollinators because they practice “floral fidelity”. Each honey bee visits only a single type of flower in any foray and maybe only a few branches of a single plant. The pollen needed from a different plant (such as a male for a female kiwifruit) might never reach it were it not for the cross-pollination that principally occurs in the crowded colony. It is in the colonies where bees laden with different pollen literally cross paths.
To deal with these pollination challenges, some producers blow collected pollen over the female flowers. Most common, though, is saturation pollination, where the honey bee populations are made so large (by placing hives in the orchards at a concentration of about 8 hives per hectare) that bees are forced to use this flower because of intense competition for all flowers within flight distance.
Maturation and harvest
Kiwifruit is picked by hand and commercially grown on sturdy support structures, as it can produce several tonnes per hectare, more than the rather weak vines can support. These are generally equipped with a watering system for irrigation and frost protection in the spring.
Kiwifruit vines require vigorous pruning, similar to that of grapevines. Fruit is borne on one-year-old and older canes, but production declines as each cane ages. Canes should be pruned off and replaced after their third year. In the northern hemisphere the fruit ripens in November, while in the southern it ripens in May. Four year-old plants can produce up to 14,000 lbs per acre while eight year-old plants can produce 18,000 lbs per acre. The plants produce their maximum at 8 to 10 years old. The seasonal yields are variable, a heavy crop on a vine one season generally comes with a light crop the following season.
*Nutrition
In a 100-gram amount, green kiwifruit provides 61 calories, is 83% water and 15% carbohydrates, with negligible protein and fat. It is particularly rich (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) in vitamin C (112% DV) and vitamin K (38% DV), has a moderate content of vitamin E (10% DV), with no other micronutrients in significant content. Gold kiwifruit has similar nutritional value, although only vitamin C has high content in a 100 gram amount (194% DV).
Kiwifruit seed oil contains on average 62% alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid. Kiwifruit pulp contains carotenoids, such as provitamin A beta-carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin.
Kiwifruit is native to central and eastern China. The first recorded description of the kiwifruit dates to the 12th century during the Song dynasty. In the early 20th century, cultivation of kiwifruit spread from China to New Zealand, where the first commercial plantings occurred. The fruit became popular with British and American servicemen stationed in New Zealand during World War II, and later became commonly exported, first to Great Britain and then to California in the 1960s.
Kiwifruit can be grown in most temperate climates with adequate summer heat. Where fuzzy kiwifruit is not hardy, other species can be grown as substitutes.
*Breeding
Often in commercial farming, different breeds are used for rootstock, fruit bearing plants and pollinators. Therefore, the seeds produced are crossbreeds of their parents. Even if the same breeds are used for pollinators and fruit bearing plants, there is no guarantee that the fruit will have the same quality as the parent. Additionally, seedlings take seven years before they flower, so determining whether the kiwi is fruit bearing or a pollinator is time-consuming. Therefore, most kiwifruits, with the exception of rootstock and new cultivars, are propagated asexually. This is done by grafting the fruit producing plant onto rootstock grown from seedlings or, if the plant is desired to be a true cultivar, rootstock grown from cuttings of a mature plant.
*Pollination
Kiwifruit flowering
Kiwifruit plants generally are dioecious, meaning a plant is either male or female. The male plants have flowers that produce pollen, the females receive the pollen to fertilise their ovules and grow fruit; most kiwifruit requires a male plant to pollinate the female plant. For a good yield of fruit, one male vine for every three to eight female vines is considered adequate. Some varieties can self pollinate, but even they produce a greater and more reliable yield when pollinated by male kiwifruit.Cross-species pollination is often (but not always) successful as long as bloom times are synchronised.
In nature, the species are pollinated by birds and native bumblebees, which visit the flowers for pollen, not nectar. The female flowers produce fake anthers with what appears to be pollen on the tips in order to attract the pollinators, although these fake anthers lack the DNA and food value of the male anthers.
Kiwifruit growers rely on honey bees, the principal ‘for-hire’ pollinator. But commercially grown kiwifruit is notoriously difficult to pollinate. The flowers are not very attractive to honey bees, in part because the flowers do not produce nectar and bees quickly learn to prefer flowers with nectar.
And for kiwifruit, honey bees are inefficient cross-pollinators because they practice “floral fidelity”. Each honey bee visits only a single type of flower in any foray and maybe only a few branches of a single plant. The pollen needed from a different plant (such as a male for a female kiwifruit) might never reach it were it not for the cross-pollination that principally occurs in the crowded colony. It is in the colonies where bees laden with different pollen literally cross paths.
To deal with these pollination challenges, some producers blow collected pollen over the female flowers. Most common, though, is saturation pollination, where the honey bee populations are made so large (by placing hives in the orchards at a concentration of about 8 hives per hectare) that bees are forced to use this flower because of intense competition for all flowers within flight distance.
Maturation and harvest
Kiwifruit is picked by hand and commercially grown on sturdy support structures, as it can produce several tonnes per hectare, more than the rather weak vines can support. These are generally equipped with a watering system for irrigation and frost protection in the spring.
Kiwifruit vines require vigorous pruning, similar to that of grapevines. Fruit is borne on one-year-old and older canes, but production declines as each cane ages. Canes should be pruned off and replaced after their third year. In the northern hemisphere the fruit ripens in November, while in the southern it ripens in May. Four year-old plants can produce up to 14,000 lbs per acre while eight year-old plants can produce 18,000 lbs per acre. The plants produce their maximum at 8 to 10 years old. The seasonal yields are variable, a heavy crop on a vine one season generally comes with a light crop the following season.
*Nutrition
In a 100-gram amount, green kiwifruit provides 61 calories, is 83% water and 15% carbohydrates, with negligible protein and fat. It is particularly rich (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) in vitamin C (112% DV) and vitamin K (38% DV), has a moderate content of vitamin E (10% DV), with no other micronutrients in significant content. Gold kiwifruit has similar nutritional value, although only vitamin C has high content in a 100 gram amount (194% DV).
Kiwifruit seed oil contains on average 62% alpha-linolenic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid. Kiwifruit pulp contains carotenoids, such as provitamin A beta-carotene, lutein and zeaxanthin.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月31日
Camellia is a genus of flowering plants in the family Theaceae. They are found in eastern and southern Asia, from the Himalayas east to Japan and Indonesia. There are 100–300 described species, with some controversy over the exact number. There are also around 3,000 hybrids. The genus was named by Linnaeus after the Jesuit botanist Georg Joseph Kamel, who worked in the Philippines and described a species of camellia (although Linnaeus did not refer to Kamel's account when discussing the genus). Camellias are famous throughout East Asia; they are known as cháhuā (茶花, 'tea flower') in Chinese, tsubaki (椿) in Japanese, dongbaek-kkot (동백꽃) in Korean, and as hoa trà or hoa chè in Vietnamese.
Of economic importance in East Asia, Southeast Asia, and the Indian subcontinent, leaves of C. sinensis are processed to create the popular beverage tea. The ornamental C. japonica, C. sasanqua and their hybrids are the source of hundreds of garden cultivars. C. oleifera produces tea seed oil, used in cooking and cosmetics.
Camellias are evergreen shrubs or small trees up to 20 m (66 ft) tall. Their leaves are alternately arranged, simple, thick, serrated, and usually glossy. Their flowers are usually large and conspicuous, one to 12 cm in diameter, with five to nine petals in naturally occurring species of camellias. The colors of the flowers vary from white through pink colors to red; truly yellow flowers are found only in South China and Vietnam. Tea varieties are always white-flowered. Camellia flowers throughout the genus are characterized by a dense bouquet of conspicuous yellow stamens, often contrasting with the petal colors.The so-called "fruit" of camellia plants is a dry capsule, sometimes subdivided in up to five compartments, each compartment containing up to eight seeds.
The various species of camellia plants are generally well-adapted to acid soils rich in humus, and most species do not grow well on chalky soil or other calcium-rich soils. Most species of camellias also require a large amount of water, either from natural rainfall or from irrigation, and the plants will not tolerate droughts. However, some of the more unusual camellias – typically species from karst soils in Vietnam – can grow without too much water.
Camellia plants usually have a rapid growth rate. Typically they will grow about 30 cm per year until mature – though this does vary depending on their variety and geographical location.
Camellia plants are used as food plants by the larvae of a number of Lepidoptera species; see List of Lepidoptera that feed on Camellia. Leaves of the Japanese camellia (C. japonica) are susceptible to the fungal parasite Mycelia sterile.
Camellia sinensis, the tea plant, is of major commercial importance because tea is made from its leaves. The species C. sinensis is the product of many generations of selective breeding in order to bring out qualities considered desirable for tea. However, many other camellias can be used to produce a similar beverage. For example, in some parts of Japan, tea made from C. sasanqua leaves is popular.
Tea oil is a sweet seasoning and cooking oil made by pressing the seeds of C. oleifera, C. japonica, and to a lesser extent other species such as C. crapnelliana, C. reticulata, C. sasanqua and C. sinensis. Relatively little-known outside East Asia, it is the most important cooking oil for hundreds of millions of people, particularly in southern China.
Camellia oil is commonly used to clean and protect the blades of cutting instruments.
Camellia oil pressed from seeds of C. japonica, also called tsubaki oil or tsubaki-abura (椿油) in Japanese, has been traditionally used in Japan for hair care.
Of economic importance in East Asia, Southeast Asia, and the Indian subcontinent, leaves of C. sinensis are processed to create the popular beverage tea. The ornamental C. japonica, C. sasanqua and their hybrids are the source of hundreds of garden cultivars. C. oleifera produces tea seed oil, used in cooking and cosmetics.
Camellias are evergreen shrubs or small trees up to 20 m (66 ft) tall. Their leaves are alternately arranged, simple, thick, serrated, and usually glossy. Their flowers are usually large and conspicuous, one to 12 cm in diameter, with five to nine petals in naturally occurring species of camellias. The colors of the flowers vary from white through pink colors to red; truly yellow flowers are found only in South China and Vietnam. Tea varieties are always white-flowered. Camellia flowers throughout the genus are characterized by a dense bouquet of conspicuous yellow stamens, often contrasting with the petal colors.The so-called "fruit" of camellia plants is a dry capsule, sometimes subdivided in up to five compartments, each compartment containing up to eight seeds.
The various species of camellia plants are generally well-adapted to acid soils rich in humus, and most species do not grow well on chalky soil or other calcium-rich soils. Most species of camellias also require a large amount of water, either from natural rainfall or from irrigation, and the plants will not tolerate droughts. However, some of the more unusual camellias – typically species from karst soils in Vietnam – can grow without too much water.
Camellia plants usually have a rapid growth rate. Typically they will grow about 30 cm per year until mature – though this does vary depending on their variety and geographical location.
Camellia plants are used as food plants by the larvae of a number of Lepidoptera species; see List of Lepidoptera that feed on Camellia. Leaves of the Japanese camellia (C. japonica) are susceptible to the fungal parasite Mycelia sterile.
Camellia sinensis, the tea plant, is of major commercial importance because tea is made from its leaves. The species C. sinensis is the product of many generations of selective breeding in order to bring out qualities considered desirable for tea. However, many other camellias can be used to produce a similar beverage. For example, in some parts of Japan, tea made from C. sasanqua leaves is popular.
Tea oil is a sweet seasoning and cooking oil made by pressing the seeds of C. oleifera, C. japonica, and to a lesser extent other species such as C. crapnelliana, C. reticulata, C. sasanqua and C. sinensis. Relatively little-known outside East Asia, it is the most important cooking oil for hundreds of millions of people, particularly in southern China.
Camellia oil is commonly used to clean and protect the blades of cutting instruments.
Camellia oil pressed from seeds of C. japonica, also called tsubaki oil or tsubaki-abura (椿油) in Japanese, has been traditionally used in Japan for hair care.
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文章
ritau
2020年05月21日
A rose is a woody perennial flowering plant of the genus Rosa, in the family Rosaceae, or the flower it bears. There are over three hundred species and thousands of cultivars. They form a group of plants that can be erect shrubs, climbing, or trailing, with stems that are often armed with sharp prickles. Flowers vary in size and shape and are usually large and showy, in colours ranging from white through yellows and reds. Most species are native to Asia, with smaller numbers native to Europe, North America, and northwestern Africa. Species, cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown for their beauty and often are fragrant. Roses have acquired cultural significance in many societies. Rose plants range in size from compact, miniature roses, to climbers that can reach seven meters in height. Different species hybridize easily, and this has been used in the development of the wide range of garden roses.
The long cultural history of the rose has led to it being used often as a symbol. In ancient Greece, the rose was closely associated with the goddess Aphrodite. In the Iliad, Aphrodite protects the body of Hector using the "immortal oil of the rose" and the archaic Greek lyric poet Ibycus praises a beautiful youth saying that Aphrodite nursed him "among rose blossoms". The second-century AD Greek travel writer Pausanias associates the rose with the story of Adonis and states that the rose is red because Aphrodite wounded herself on one of its thorns and stained the flower red with her blood. Book Eleven of the ancient Roman novel The Golden Ass by Apuleius contains a scene in which the goddess Isis, who is identified with Venus, instructs the main character, Lucius, who has been transformed into a donkey, to eat rose petals from a crown of roses worn by a priest as part of a religious procession in order to regain his humanity.
Following the Christianization of the Roman Empire, the rose became identified with the Virgin Mary. The color of the rose and the number of roses received has symbolic representation. The rose symbol eventually led to the creation of the rosary and other devotional prayers in Christianity.
Ever since the 1400s, the Franciscans have had a Crown Rosary of the Seven Joys of the Blessed Virgin Mary. In the 1400s and 1500s, the Carthusians promoted the idea of sacred mysteries associated with the rose symbol and rose gardens. Albrecht Dürer's painting The Feast of the Rosary (1506) depicts the Virgin Mary distributing garlands of roses to her worshippers.
Roses symbolised the Houses of York and Lancaster in a conflict known as the Wars of the Roses.
Roses are a favored subject in art and appear in portraits, illustrations, on stamps, as ornaments or as architectural elements. The Luxembourg-born Belgian artist and botanist Pierre-Joseph Redouté is known for his detailed watercolours of flowers, particularly roses.
Henri Fantin-Latour was also a prolific painter of still life, particularly flowers including roses. The rose 'Fantin-Latour' was named after the artist.
Other impressionists including Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Pierre-Auguste Renoir have paintings of roses among their works.
In 1986 President Ronald Reagan signed legislation to make the rose the floral emblem of the United States.
The long cultural history of the rose has led to it being used often as a symbol. In ancient Greece, the rose was closely associated with the goddess Aphrodite. In the Iliad, Aphrodite protects the body of Hector using the "immortal oil of the rose" and the archaic Greek lyric poet Ibycus praises a beautiful youth saying that Aphrodite nursed him "among rose blossoms". The second-century AD Greek travel writer Pausanias associates the rose with the story of Adonis and states that the rose is red because Aphrodite wounded herself on one of its thorns and stained the flower red with her blood. Book Eleven of the ancient Roman novel The Golden Ass by Apuleius contains a scene in which the goddess Isis, who is identified with Venus, instructs the main character, Lucius, who has been transformed into a donkey, to eat rose petals from a crown of roses worn by a priest as part of a religious procession in order to regain his humanity.
Following the Christianization of the Roman Empire, the rose became identified with the Virgin Mary. The color of the rose and the number of roses received has symbolic representation. The rose symbol eventually led to the creation of the rosary and other devotional prayers in Christianity.
Ever since the 1400s, the Franciscans have had a Crown Rosary of the Seven Joys of the Blessed Virgin Mary. In the 1400s and 1500s, the Carthusians promoted the idea of sacred mysteries associated with the rose symbol and rose gardens. Albrecht Dürer's painting The Feast of the Rosary (1506) depicts the Virgin Mary distributing garlands of roses to her worshippers.
Roses symbolised the Houses of York and Lancaster in a conflict known as the Wars of the Roses.
Roses are a favored subject in art and appear in portraits, illustrations, on stamps, as ornaments or as architectural elements. The Luxembourg-born Belgian artist and botanist Pierre-Joseph Redouté is known for his detailed watercolours of flowers, particularly roses.
Henri Fantin-Latour was also a prolific painter of still life, particularly flowers including roses. The rose 'Fantin-Latour' was named after the artist.
Other impressionists including Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Pierre-Auguste Renoir have paintings of roses among their works.
In 1986 President Ronald Reagan signed legislation to make the rose the floral emblem of the United States.
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