文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月29日
1.Ice Plants
Ice plants are an interesting genus of succulents, with daisy-like flowers. There is a good amount of variety among ice plants; some are low growing spreaders, others become bushy subshrubs. There are over 150 species in this genus from southern Africa. Most are easy growers that bloom freely. The botanical name, Lampranthus, is from the Greek words "Lampros" (bright) and anthos (flower).
Leaves: The stocky leaves grow in pairs and can be cylindrical or almost triangular. They are short, very succulent and often blue-green.
Flowers: Daisy-like flowers with thin petals that only open in the sun. Different species bloom in vivid shades of yellow, orange, pink and red. The flowers form near the stem tips. Some varieties bloom over a long period, others only a few weeks.
Botanical Name
Lampranthus species and hybrids
Common Names
Ice Plant. You may see individual species labeled as Ice Plants and some have quantifiers like Trailing Ice Plant. It can be confusing. If you are looking for a specific plant, you would be wise to have the botanical name.
Cold Hardiness
Hardiness will vary with the species and variety, but most are only perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 - 10. Some species can tolerate a light frost, but despite their name, prolonged periods of cold, damp conditions will cause them to rot. Gardeners in colder areas can grow them as annuals or houseplants.
Sun Exposure
All varieties of ice plant grow and bloom best in full sun.
Mature Plant Size
The size will vary among the species, but most of the commonly grown ice plant varieties remain 2 ft. (60 cm) tall or lower, with a spreading habit.
Bloom Time
Many ice plants put on their best show in spring, with sporadic repeat blooms throughout the season, however, a few, like Lampranthus spectabilis, bloom all summer.
Suggested Varieties of Ice Plant
Lampranthus aurantiacus - Spring blooming, upright plant with bright orange petals around a yellow center. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus coccineus / Redflush Ice Plant - Bright red flowers throughout the season. Somewhat frost tolerant. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus haworthii - Blue-green leaves held up like a candelabra are covered with pink or purple flowers in the spring. Repeat blooms sporadically. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Lampranthus spectabilis /Trailing Ice Plant- Long blooming in white or purple-pink. Low growing and spreading. H 2 ft. (60 cm)
Design Suggestions Using Ice Plant
Where the plants are hardy, they make a nice ground cover. Ice plants thrive in poor soil and make a wonderful alpine or rock garden plant or tucked in a stone wall. Their spreading habit means they quickly fill a container and spill over, so they are equally nice in hanging baskets and free-standing containers.
2.Growing and Caring for Ice Plants
Ice Plant Growing Tips
Soil: A neutral soil pH is fine, but it is more important to provide sandy, well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left in wet or damp soil for prolonged periods of time.
Planting: Ice Plants can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds need warm temperatures (55 F.) to germinate. Taking cuttings is the fastest method. Make cuttings while the plant is actively growing, from spring to early fall. Cut shoots about 3 - 6 inches long and remove all but the top set of leaves.
Succulent cuttings should be allowed to dry slightly and callus. Leave them out in the air for several hours or overnight. Then root in sandy soil, in containers. Keep the soil evenly moist, until the cutting root. You can tell they have rooted by gently tugging on them. If they offer resistance, they have rooted and can be potted up.
Caring for Ice Plants
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant, however, they do prefer regular weekly watering during the summer. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant.
Flowering is more abundant if container grown plants are fed a balanced fertilizer, according to label directions. In-ground plants should be fed if the soil is poor or if blooming is sparse.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring.
Pests & Problems of Ice Plants
Weather is the biggest problem when growing Ice Plants. Few diseases have been reported, but mealy bug and scale can occasionally infest.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月26日
1.Crassula Plants
:Succulent plants offer low maintenance and diverse shapes and textures, both in the garden and indoors. Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well-known is Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates, it grows into a shrub.
Many other Crassula species are much smaller, including some miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder "What is that?" With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Botanical Name
Crassula spp.
Common Names
Because of the shapes and forms of their leaves, Crassula plants lend themselves to very descriptive common names. Crassula barklyi, the 'Rattlesnake Plant', looks like the tip of the snake's tail. Crassula argentea, shown here, is called ‘Living Coral’. Crassula perforata, with it's twirling leaves stacked one on top of another is known as 'String of Buttons'. This is an intriguing genus of plants.
Hardiness Zones
Most Crassula species are only reliably hardy in USDA Zones 9 - 10, but elsewhere you could bring them indoors for the winter. They won't get as large as plants grown outdoors, but they make great houseplants.
Sun Exposure
Full sun to partial shade. Most Crassula plants need some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color. A site with morning sun and afternoon shade would be perfect.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary with species and variety, from shrubs several feet tall to tiny specimens of a couple of inches.
Bloom Period
Spring and summer. Some varieties of Crassula have lovely flowers and others are insignificant. Many gardeners remove the flowers that are not particularly showy.
Design Tips for Crassula
The smaller Crassula are perfect container plants - low maintenance, evergreen and eye-catching. If you have the climate, the plants look terrific tucked into and hanging over walls.
Jade plants in their natural element will be one of the easiest to maintain plants in your garden. Their dark, glossy green color is a great foil for almost any flower color.
Suggested Crassula Varieties to Grow
There are so many to choose from, you may become a collector. Here are a few that might catch your eye.
Crassula "Morgan’s Beauty": Thick silver leaves dusted in white, with pretty pink late spring flowers. Grows about 8 inches wide.
Crassula erosula "Campfire'": Long branching leaves turn blazing red in winter. A clump former that grows about 1 ft. tall and spreads 3 ft. wide.
Crassula pellucida subsp. marginalis "Variegata": a flowing mass of heart-shaped leaves variegated in pink, green and creamy yellow. Nice in a hanging pot.
Crassula perforata: Known as the stacked Crassula, their leaves rotate around a central stem, giving them their common name, String of Buttons'.
2.Growing and Caring for Crassula
Crassula Growing Tips
Soil: Crassula plants need very well draining soil, but they are not particular about soil pH. Sandy or even rocky soil is fine.
Water: As succulents, they don't need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Feeding: Feed sparingly. You can give your plants a little organic fertilizer in mid-spring, as they start actively growing.
Propagation: Crassula plants are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings.
Caring for Your Crassula Plants
Crassula can be sensitive to temperature. Too hot and they will go dormant and drop their lower leaves. Too cold and they will simply pout, not doing much of anything. Other than that, they laugh off both neglect and abuse.
Stacking Crassulas send out suckers, which is really only a problem when grown in the ground. However they are slow growers and can be controlled with a little effort.
When plants start to get straggly or leggy, don't be afraid to cut them back.
Pests and Problems
Keep an eye out for the usual succulent pests: aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. The biggest problem is root rot and sparse watering will help avoid that.
:Succulent plants offer low maintenance and diverse shapes and textures, both in the garden and indoors. Crassula is a diverse and extensive genus of succulent plants, with about 350 species. Probably the most well-known is Jade plant (Crassula ovata). Many of us know it as a houseplant, but in warm climates, it grows into a shrub.
Many other Crassula species are much smaller, including some miniatures and creeping ground covers. They are all quite fascinating, the types of plants you see occasionally and wonder "What is that?" With the resurgence of succulent container gardening, these smaller Crassula species are becoming more readily available and their easy growing habit makes them worth getting to know.
Botanical Name
Crassula spp.
Common Names
Because of the shapes and forms of their leaves, Crassula plants lend themselves to very descriptive common names. Crassula barklyi, the 'Rattlesnake Plant', looks like the tip of the snake's tail. Crassula argentea, shown here, is called ‘Living Coral’. Crassula perforata, with it's twirling leaves stacked one on top of another is known as 'String of Buttons'. This is an intriguing genus of plants.
Hardiness Zones
Most Crassula species are only reliably hardy in USDA Zones 9 - 10, but elsewhere you could bring them indoors for the winter. They won't get as large as plants grown outdoors, but they make great houseplants.
Sun Exposure
Full sun to partial shade. Most Crassula plants need some shade in the hottest part of summer, but require bright light to attain their most vibrant color. A site with morning sun and afternoon shade would be perfect.
Mature Plant Size
Size will vary with species and variety, from shrubs several feet tall to tiny specimens of a couple of inches.
Bloom Period
Spring and summer. Some varieties of Crassula have lovely flowers and others are insignificant. Many gardeners remove the flowers that are not particularly showy.
Design Tips for Crassula
The smaller Crassula are perfect container plants - low maintenance, evergreen and eye-catching. If you have the climate, the plants look terrific tucked into and hanging over walls.
Jade plants in their natural element will be one of the easiest to maintain plants in your garden. Their dark, glossy green color is a great foil for almost any flower color.
Suggested Crassula Varieties to Grow
There are so many to choose from, you may become a collector. Here are a few that might catch your eye.
Crassula "Morgan’s Beauty": Thick silver leaves dusted in white, with pretty pink late spring flowers. Grows about 8 inches wide.
Crassula erosula "Campfire'": Long branching leaves turn blazing red in winter. A clump former that grows about 1 ft. tall and spreads 3 ft. wide.
Crassula pellucida subsp. marginalis "Variegata": a flowing mass of heart-shaped leaves variegated in pink, green and creamy yellow. Nice in a hanging pot.
Crassula perforata: Known as the stacked Crassula, their leaves rotate around a central stem, giving them their common name, String of Buttons'.
2.Growing and Caring for Crassula
Crassula Growing Tips
Soil: Crassula plants need very well draining soil, but they are not particular about soil pH. Sandy or even rocky soil is fine.
Water: As succulents, they don't need frequent watering, since they store it in their leaves. If they are left to sit in wet soil, their roots will rot. During cooler months, give them a good drenching and then allow the soil to dry out, before watering again. They go dormant when the temperature gets hot in summer and need even less water.
Feeding: Feed sparingly. You can give your plants a little organic fertilizer in mid-spring, as they start actively growing.
Propagation: Crassula plants are generally started by division, offsets or leaf cuttings.
Caring for Your Crassula Plants
Crassula can be sensitive to temperature. Too hot and they will go dormant and drop their lower leaves. Too cold and they will simply pout, not doing much of anything. Other than that, they laugh off both neglect and abuse.
Stacking Crassulas send out suckers, which is really only a problem when grown in the ground. However they are slow growers and can be controlled with a little effort.
When plants start to get straggly or leggy, don't be afraid to cut them back.
Pests and Problems
Keep an eye out for the usual succulent pests: aphids, mealy bugs and spider mites. The biggest problem is root rot and sparse watering will help avoid that.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月26日
1.Senecio Plants
Senecio is a very large genus of plants, with over 1,000 species dispersed around the world. Some are lovely and others, like the groundsels and ragworts, are noxious weeds. Many, such as Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria), are tender perennials.
This profile covers the succulents. There are about 100 succulent Senecios, including a few oddities that are not really suited to the garden, although they are certainly interesting. There are some large shrubs, but many are small, trailing plants or spreading ground covers. As with most succulents, they are very drought and heat tolerant and not very cold tolerant.
Many Senecio species are toxic to animals. Use care and do not plant where animals or kids might be tempted to munch on them.
Leaves: The leaves are thick and fleshy and can be deep green, bluish or even striped. Senecio succulent leaves vary widely in shape. Some are round, some banana-shaped, some stand upright.
Flowers: Senecio flowers form in clusters, on long stems. Different species bloom at times throughout the year. The flowers persist for weeks. Shapes include red or white spires and yellow daisy-like flowers, but it is really the foliage that interests most gardeners.
Botanical Name
Senecio spp.
Common Name
There is no common name for the whole group of Senecio plants. Each species has its own common name or names.
Cold Hardiness
Most fall somewhere around USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11. A few Senecio species can tolerate brief periods of cold or dampness, but prolonged exposure will turn them to mush.
Sun Exposure
Being succulents, they will grow best in full sun.
Mature Plant Size
Most Senecio plants are low growing, under 1 ft. (30 cm) tall. Depending on species, they may spread out or trail down about 1 ft. (20 cm).
Bloom Period
Senecio succulents are grown for their interesting shapes and leaves. They do bloom, at different times during the year, but not all of them bloom in cultivation as well as they do in the wild.
Using Senecio Plants in Your Garden Design
In warmer climates, you can use these plants as ground covers, rock garden plants, and specimens. Most are on the small side. These are curiosities and look best in containers, either mixed or alone. In climates with cold winters, growing them in containers will allow you to bring them indoors, as houseplants.
Suggested Varieties:
Senecio crassissimus - "Vertical Leaf Senecio": Bluish, flattened leaves on an upright plant. An easy grower that can handle some frost. 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) H x 18 inches (45 cm) W. USDA Hardiness Zones 10 - 11.
Senecio haworthii - "Cocoon Plant": Cocoon refers to the shape of the gray leaves. They form a prostrate bush but need periodic renewal. 1 ft. (30 cm) H x 3 ft. (90 cm) W. USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11.
Senecio radicans - "String of Bananas": Puffing, crescent moon-shaped leaves punctuate long stems. More tolerant of shade and moisture than most species. 6-12 in. (15-30 cm) H x 9-12 in. (22-30 cm) W. Zones 10 - 11.
Senecio rowleyanus "String of Beads or Pearls": Dangling stems of round leaves. Thrives on neglect. A trailing plant that gets several ft. long. Zones 8 - 10.
Senecio serpens - "Blue Chalk Sticks", "Blue Ice Plant":Short, steel blue, tubular leaves. (Several species go by the same common names as this plant.) 12-18 in. (30-45 cm) H x 18-24 in. (45-60 cm) W. Zones 10 - 11.
2.Growing and Caring for Succulent Senecio Plants
Soil: Senecio planats don't seem to be particular about soil pH. Something in the neural range (6.0 - 7.0) would be fine. More importantly, make sure the soil is on the sandy side and well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left damp.
Planting: Senecio plants can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds require warm temperatures (55 F.) and constant moisture to germinate.
Cuttings are easier and faster. Cut during the growing season, early spring to fall. Root in sandy soil, in containers.
Caring for Your Senecio Plants
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant.
Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth.
Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
Pests & Problems of Senecio
Few pests bother Senecio. They can occasionally be affected by scale and mealy bugs. Rabbits found my String of Pearls quite tasty.
Senecio is a very large genus of plants, with over 1,000 species dispersed around the world. Some are lovely and others, like the groundsels and ragworts, are noxious weeds. Many, such as Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria), are tender perennials.
This profile covers the succulents. There are about 100 succulent Senecios, including a few oddities that are not really suited to the garden, although they are certainly interesting. There are some large shrubs, but many are small, trailing plants or spreading ground covers. As with most succulents, they are very drought and heat tolerant and not very cold tolerant.
Many Senecio species are toxic to animals. Use care and do not plant where animals or kids might be tempted to munch on them.
Leaves: The leaves are thick and fleshy and can be deep green, bluish or even striped. Senecio succulent leaves vary widely in shape. Some are round, some banana-shaped, some stand upright.
Flowers: Senecio flowers form in clusters, on long stems. Different species bloom at times throughout the year. The flowers persist for weeks. Shapes include red or white spires and yellow daisy-like flowers, but it is really the foliage that interests most gardeners.
Botanical Name
Senecio spp.
Common Name
There is no common name for the whole group of Senecio plants. Each species has its own common name or names.
Cold Hardiness
Most fall somewhere around USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11. A few Senecio species can tolerate brief periods of cold or dampness, but prolonged exposure will turn them to mush.
Sun Exposure
Being succulents, they will grow best in full sun.
Mature Plant Size
Most Senecio plants are low growing, under 1 ft. (30 cm) tall. Depending on species, they may spread out or trail down about 1 ft. (20 cm).
Bloom Period
Senecio succulents are grown for their interesting shapes and leaves. They do bloom, at different times during the year, but not all of them bloom in cultivation as well as they do in the wild.
Using Senecio Plants in Your Garden Design
In warmer climates, you can use these plants as ground covers, rock garden plants, and specimens. Most are on the small side. These are curiosities and look best in containers, either mixed or alone. In climates with cold winters, growing them in containers will allow you to bring them indoors, as houseplants.
Suggested Varieties:
Senecio crassissimus - "Vertical Leaf Senecio": Bluish, flattened leaves on an upright plant. An easy grower that can handle some frost. 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) H x 18 inches (45 cm) W. USDA Hardiness Zones 10 - 11.
Senecio haworthii - "Cocoon Plant": Cocoon refers to the shape of the gray leaves. They form a prostrate bush but need periodic renewal. 1 ft. (30 cm) H x 3 ft. (90 cm) W. USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11.
Senecio radicans - "String of Bananas": Puffing, crescent moon-shaped leaves punctuate long stems. More tolerant of shade and moisture than most species. 6-12 in. (15-30 cm) H x 9-12 in. (22-30 cm) W. Zones 10 - 11.
Senecio rowleyanus "String of Beads or Pearls": Dangling stems of round leaves. Thrives on neglect. A trailing plant that gets several ft. long. Zones 8 - 10.
Senecio serpens - "Blue Chalk Sticks", "Blue Ice Plant":Short, steel blue, tubular leaves. (Several species go by the same common names as this plant.) 12-18 in. (30-45 cm) H x 18-24 in. (45-60 cm) W. Zones 10 - 11.
2.Growing and Caring for Succulent Senecio Plants
Soil: Senecio planats don't seem to be particular about soil pH. Something in the neural range (6.0 - 7.0) would be fine. More importantly, make sure the soil is on the sandy side and well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left damp.
Planting: Senecio plants can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds require warm temperatures (55 F.) and constant moisture to germinate.
Cuttings are easier and faster. Cut during the growing season, early spring to fall. Root in sandy soil, in containers.
Caring for Your Senecio Plants
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant.
Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth.
Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
Pests & Problems of Senecio
Few pests bother Senecio. They can occasionally be affected by scale and mealy bugs. Rabbits found my String of Pearls quite tasty.
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2018年05月10日
My other aloe is about to bloom :D anyone have an idea of what species it is?
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月27日
Kale, a common garden vegetable related to cabbage and other cole crops, is a member of the Brassica genus, with a number of species and cultivars for the garden. Kale serves as a tasty vegetable whether it's cooked or raw. But you're not the only one who likes to munch on kale; many bug species also love eating kale. If insect pests have turned your kale garden bed into an all-you-can-eat salad buffet, take action. To minimize potential toxicity risks for you and your family, try all-natural or organic methods of kale bug eradication before resorting to chemical insecticides.
Blast your kale with strong jets of water from your garden hose. This physically removes and deters insect invasions and also helps kill certain fragile bug species, such as the soft-bodied aphid -- a common kale pest. While kale leaves are firm and hardy, limit this bug control method to just once a day to avoid causing undue damage to your kale plants.
Spritz your kale with soapy water. The soap film coats the bodies of any present insects and suffocates them. Once the soap dries, it also creates a bitter-tasting residue that keeps new bugs from moving in. For effective results, combine a teaspoon of liquid dish soap with half a gallon of fresh water in a spray bottle. Most dish soaps are nontoxic, but if you're worried, try using an organic and biodegradable dish soap.
Release ladybugs in your kale garden bed. These are especially effective for naturally killing and reducing aphid populations, which commonly infest kale and other cole crops.
Remove beetles and caterpillars manually. Such handpicking is a natural and effective form of pest control in smaller gardens. Drop the bugs into a bucket of soapy water to quickly kill the pests and prevent them from simply returning to your kale.
Spray your kale with a natural and organic insecticide if you notice heavy insect invasions -- causing wilting and other signs of visible plant distress -- on 10 percent or more of your kale plants. The manual handpicking you accomplished in the previous step can easily help you determine the level of insect invasions. Sprays tend to run off the glossy kale leaves. Remedy this by adding about 3 teaspoons of liquid soap per gallon of spray mixture to improve the liquid's adhesion. Spray both sides of the leaves with a fine mist until they are wet. Spray twice, five to seven days apart, and avoid spraying on a hot, sunny day. For effective, natural pest control against all kinds of common kale pests, including beetles and leafminers, try spinosad. Based on a soil-dwelling bacterium, the spray satisfies federal regulations concerning organic certification for vegetables.
Blast your kale with strong jets of water from your garden hose. This physically removes and deters insect invasions and also helps kill certain fragile bug species, such as the soft-bodied aphid -- a common kale pest. While kale leaves are firm and hardy, limit this bug control method to just once a day to avoid causing undue damage to your kale plants.
Spritz your kale with soapy water. The soap film coats the bodies of any present insects and suffocates them. Once the soap dries, it also creates a bitter-tasting residue that keeps new bugs from moving in. For effective results, combine a teaspoon of liquid dish soap with half a gallon of fresh water in a spray bottle. Most dish soaps are nontoxic, but if you're worried, try using an organic and biodegradable dish soap.
Release ladybugs in your kale garden bed. These are especially effective for naturally killing and reducing aphid populations, which commonly infest kale and other cole crops.
Remove beetles and caterpillars manually. Such handpicking is a natural and effective form of pest control in smaller gardens. Drop the bugs into a bucket of soapy water to quickly kill the pests and prevent them from simply returning to your kale.
Spray your kale with a natural and organic insecticide if you notice heavy insect invasions -- causing wilting and other signs of visible plant distress -- on 10 percent or more of your kale plants. The manual handpicking you accomplished in the previous step can easily help you determine the level of insect invasions. Sprays tend to run off the glossy kale leaves. Remedy this by adding about 3 teaspoons of liquid soap per gallon of spray mixture to improve the liquid's adhesion. Spray both sides of the leaves with a fine mist until they are wet. Spray twice, five to seven days apart, and avoid spraying on a hot, sunny day. For effective, natural pest control against all kinds of common kale pests, including beetles and leafminers, try spinosad. Based on a soil-dwelling bacterium, the spray satisfies federal regulations concerning organic certification for vegetables.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月08日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 2–3½' tall, sometimes branching in the upper half. The stems are light green and usually hairless; however, some variants of this species have pubescent stems. Alternate compound leaves occur at intervals along the stems; they are trifoliate and their leaflets are extended horizontally in relation to the ground. Individual leaflets are up to 3½" long and ¾" across; they are 3-6 times as long as they are wide. Some variants of this species have more narrow leaflets than others. The terminal leaflet is the same length or a little longer than the lateral leaflets. The leaflets are elliptic to oblong in shape and smooth along their margins. Their upper surfaces are medium green and glabrous, while their lower surfaces are pale to medium green and covered with appressed white hairs. The petioles of the compound leaves are up to 2" long, light green, and mostly hairless. At the base of each petiole, there is a pair of tiny deciduous stipules that are linear-lanceolate; these stipules soon wither away. The petiolules (secondary petioles) of the lateral leaflets are very short (less than 1/8" or 3 mm.), while the petiolules of the terminal leaflets are longer (up to ½").
Flowers
The upper stems terminate in either racemes or narrow panicles of flowers. The branches of each inflorescence are light green and covered with hooked hairs. Individual flowers are ¼" long (or a little more), consisting of 5 petals, a short tubular calyx with teeth, an ovary with a single style, and several hidden stamens. The flowers have a typical pea-like structure, consisting of an upright banner and 2 lateral wings that enclose a central keel. The petals are pink to rosy pink; at the base of the upper petal (banner), there are 1-2 tiny patches of yellow. The green calyx is covered with hooked hairs. The slender petioles of the flowers are about ½" long; they are green to reddish purple and also covered with hooked hairs. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1–1½ months. There is no noticeable floral scent. Fertile flowers are replaced by flat loments (a type of seedpod) that are about ½–1½" long. Each loment consists of 2-6 rounded segments, a short stipe, and sometimes a short beak. Each segment of a loment is more rounded along the bottom than along the top; it contains a single seed. The loments are covered with hooked hairs. The root system consists of an elongated caudex with fibrous roots. This wildflower spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, mesic to dry-mesic conditions, and sandy or rocky soil.
Range & Habitat: The native Panicled Tick Trefoil is occasional in all areas of Illinois, except the NW section, where it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats consist of thinly wooded bluffs, rocky open woodlands, sandy open woodlands, sandy savannas and typical savannas, woodland edges, thickets, rocky glades, and partially shaded roadside embankments. This wildflower is a pioneer species that prefers some disturbance from wildfires, selective logging, and others causes.
Faunal Associations: Long-tongued bees collect pollen from the flowers; these relatively uncommon floral visitors include bumblebees (Bombus spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), and long-horned bees (Melissodes spp.). Other insects feed on the leaves, flowers, and seeds of Desmodium spp. (Tick Trefoils). For example, the caterpillars of several skippers feed on the leaves: Achalarus lyciades (Hoary Edge), Epargyreus clarus (Silver-Spotted Skipper), Thorybes bathyllus (Southern Cloudywing), and Thorybes pylades (Northern Cloudywing). The caterpillars of the butterfly Everes comyntas (Eastern Tailed Blue) also feed on the foliage, while the caterpillars of the butterfly Strymon melinus (Gray Hairstreak) eat the flowers and developing seedpods. These insect feeders include many kinds of beetles, and some species of thrips, aphids, moth caterpillars, and stinkbugs (see Insect Table). The seeds are eaten by some upland gamebirds (Bobwhite Quail, Wild Turkey) and small rodents (White-Footed Mouse, Deer Mouse), while the foliage is readily eaten by White-Tailed Deer and other hoofed mammalian herbivores. The Cottontail Rabbit also consumes the foliage. The sticky seedpods (loments) cling to the fur of animals and the clothing of humans. As a result, the seeds are carried to new locations.
Photographic Location: A sandy savanna at Hooper Branch Savanna Nature Preserve in Iroquois County, Illinois.
Comments: Among different populations of Panicled Tick Trefoil, there is significant variation in the width of the leaflets and the hairiness of the stems and leaflets. Usually, this wildflower has fairly narrow leaflets, hairless to nearly hairless stems, and hairless upper surfaces on the leaflets. It can be distinguished from other species in this genus by considering the following key characteristics: 1) the narrow leaflets are 3-6 times longer than they are across, 2) the petioles of the trifoliate leaves are fairly long (up to 2"), 3) the deciduous stipules of the trifoliate leaves are small and insignificant, and 4) the leaflets are rather long (up to 3½"). Panicled Tick Trefoil is one of the more common species of this genus in Illinois.
Flowers
The upper stems terminate in either racemes or narrow panicles of flowers. The branches of each inflorescence are light green and covered with hooked hairs. Individual flowers are ¼" long (or a little more), consisting of 5 petals, a short tubular calyx with teeth, an ovary with a single style, and several hidden stamens. The flowers have a typical pea-like structure, consisting of an upright banner and 2 lateral wings that enclose a central keel. The petals are pink to rosy pink; at the base of the upper petal (banner), there are 1-2 tiny patches of yellow. The green calyx is covered with hooked hairs. The slender petioles of the flowers are about ½" long; they are green to reddish purple and also covered with hooked hairs. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall and lasts about 1–1½ months. There is no noticeable floral scent. Fertile flowers are replaced by flat loments (a type of seedpod) that are about ½–1½" long. Each loment consists of 2-6 rounded segments, a short stipe, and sometimes a short beak. Each segment of a loment is more rounded along the bottom than along the top; it contains a single seed. The loments are covered with hooked hairs. The root system consists of an elongated caudex with fibrous roots. This wildflower spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is partial sun, mesic to dry-mesic conditions, and sandy or rocky soil.
Range & Habitat: The native Panicled Tick Trefoil is occasional in all areas of Illinois, except the NW section, where it is rare or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats consist of thinly wooded bluffs, rocky open woodlands, sandy open woodlands, sandy savannas and typical savannas, woodland edges, thickets, rocky glades, and partially shaded roadside embankments. This wildflower is a pioneer species that prefers some disturbance from wildfires, selective logging, and others causes.
Faunal Associations: Long-tongued bees collect pollen from the flowers; these relatively uncommon floral visitors include bumblebees (Bombus spp.), leaf-cutting bees (Megachile spp.), and long-horned bees (Melissodes spp.). Other insects feed on the leaves, flowers, and seeds of Desmodium spp. (Tick Trefoils). For example, the caterpillars of several skippers feed on the leaves: Achalarus lyciades (Hoary Edge), Epargyreus clarus (Silver-Spotted Skipper), Thorybes bathyllus (Southern Cloudywing), and Thorybes pylades (Northern Cloudywing). The caterpillars of the butterfly Everes comyntas (Eastern Tailed Blue) also feed on the foliage, while the caterpillars of the butterfly Strymon melinus (Gray Hairstreak) eat the flowers and developing seedpods. These insect feeders include many kinds of beetles, and some species of thrips, aphids, moth caterpillars, and stinkbugs (see Insect Table). The seeds are eaten by some upland gamebirds (Bobwhite Quail, Wild Turkey) and small rodents (White-Footed Mouse, Deer Mouse), while the foliage is readily eaten by White-Tailed Deer and other hoofed mammalian herbivores. The Cottontail Rabbit also consumes the foliage. The sticky seedpods (loments) cling to the fur of animals and the clothing of humans. As a result, the seeds are carried to new locations.
Photographic Location: A sandy savanna at Hooper Branch Savanna Nature Preserve in Iroquois County, Illinois.
Comments: Among different populations of Panicled Tick Trefoil, there is significant variation in the width of the leaflets and the hairiness of the stems and leaflets. Usually, this wildflower has fairly narrow leaflets, hairless to nearly hairless stems, and hairless upper surfaces on the leaflets. It can be distinguished from other species in this genus by considering the following key characteristics: 1) the narrow leaflets are 3-6 times longer than they are across, 2) the petioles of the trifoliate leaves are fairly long (up to 2"), 3) the deciduous stipules of the trifoliate leaves are small and insignificant, and 4) the leaflets are rather long (up to 3½"). Panicled Tick Trefoil is one of the more common species of this genus in Illinois.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月02日
Description: This perennial plant is up to 6" tall (rarely taller), consisting of a basal rosette of leaves and an erect stem bearing the inflorescence. Species in this genus are dioecious, with individual plants bearing either staminate (male) or pistallate (female) flowers. The basal leaves are up to 3½" long and 2" across; they are obovate in shape with long petioles and their margins are smooth. Mature basal leaves have 3-5 conspicuous veins. The upper surfaces of these leaves are light to medium green and glabrous to appressed-hairy, while their lower surfaces are whitish green and densely appressed-hairy. Sometimes basal leaves become more glabrous with age. During the spring, a central stem develops from the basal leaves. This central stem is densely covered with appressed white hairs; along its length, there are a few alternate leaves. These leaves clasp the stem and they are erect or ascending. Individual alternate leaves are up to 1½" long, narrowly lanceolate or elliptic in shape, and smooth to undulate; they tend to be more hairy than the basal leaves. At the apex of the central stem is a small cluster of about 3-6 staminate or pistillate flowerheads.
The flowerheads are about ¼–½" long and a little less across; they have phyllaries (floral bracts) at their bases that are light green and hairy, otherwise they consist of white disk florets. The staminate florets have brownish tubular anthers, while the pistillate florets are fluffy white from an abundance of styles. The blooming period occurs during mid- to late spring, lasting about 2-3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. While the flowers are capable of cross-pollination by means of either wind or insects, they are also capable of self-pollination. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes that resemble small brown nutlets with white resinous dots, to which small tufts of white hair are attached. They are distributed by the wind. The flower-bearing part of the plant dies down during the summer, but the rosette of basal leaves persists. Occasionally, this plant forms stolons that can take root a short distance from the mother plant, forming clonal offsets. There is a strong tendency to form colonies, sometimes consisting of all staminate or pistillate plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade and average to dry conditions. This plant often flourishes in poor soil that contains sand, rocky material, or clay. Young growth during the spring is rarely bothered by disease, although the semi-evergreen basal leaves often become discolored and withered with age.
Range & Habitat: Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes has been found in most of the counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is both native and common. Habitats include hill prairies, openings in upland forests, wooded slopes, bluffs, limestone glades, areas along woodland paths, disturbed open woodlands, thickets, pastures, and abandoned fields. Both sandy and non-sandy areas can provide suitable habitat. This little plant favors areas with reduced ground competition that are partially sunny. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial as this reduces competition from woody vines and shrubs.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are visited primarily by small bees and flies. Among the bees, this includes Andrenid bees, Halictid bees, and cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), while fly visitors consist primarily of Syrphid flies and, to a lesser extent, flesh flies, blow flies, Muscid flies, and others. Insects that feed on Plantain-leaved Pussytoes and other Antennaria spp. (Pussytoes) include larvae of the fly Chromatomyia syngenesiae (Chrysanthemum Leafminer), gall-forming larvae of the flies Aspondylia antennariae (Everlasting Bud Midge) and Rhopalomyia antennariae (Pussytoes Bud Midge), larvae of Tebenna gnaphaliella (Everlasting Tebenna Moth), caterpillars of the butterfly Vanessa virginiensis (American Painted Lady), and the aphid Pleotrichophorus antennarius. To a limited extent, the Bobwhite Quail eats the seeds, while the White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit browse on the foliage.
Photographic Location: The photograph of the pistillate flowerheads was taken along a woodland path at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois, while the remaining photographs were taken at a hilly woodland in east-central Illinois.
Comments: Plantain-leaved Pussytoes can be readily distinguished from Antennaria neglecta (Field Pussytoes) by its basal leaves. The latter species has basal leaves that are single-veined and more narrow. Field Pussytoes is also more typical of open habitats, rather than woodland areas. Because Plantain-leaved Pussytoes is a rather variable species, it is often divided into different varieties or subspecies; some authorities even divide it into different species (Mohlenbrock, 2002). These distinctions take into consideration the length of phyllaries (floral bracts) in pistillate (female) plants, and the hairiness or shape of the basal leaves. No attempt has been made to make such fine distinctions here. Some authorities state that these plants are wind-pollinated, while others emphasize the role of insects in cross-pollination.
The flowerheads are about ¼–½" long and a little less across; they have phyllaries (floral bracts) at their bases that are light green and hairy, otherwise they consist of white disk florets. The staminate florets have brownish tubular anthers, while the pistillate florets are fluffy white from an abundance of styles. The blooming period occurs during mid- to late spring, lasting about 2-3 weeks. There is no noticeable floral scent. While the flowers are capable of cross-pollination by means of either wind or insects, they are also capable of self-pollination. Afterwards, the florets are replaced by achenes that resemble small brown nutlets with white resinous dots, to which small tufts of white hair are attached. They are distributed by the wind. The flower-bearing part of the plant dies down during the summer, but the rosette of basal leaves persists. Occasionally, this plant forms stolons that can take root a short distance from the mother plant, forming clonal offsets. There is a strong tendency to form colonies, sometimes consisting of all staminate or pistillate plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade and average to dry conditions. This plant often flourishes in poor soil that contains sand, rocky material, or clay. Young growth during the spring is rarely bothered by disease, although the semi-evergreen basal leaves often become discolored and withered with age.
Range & Habitat: Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes has been found in most of the counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is both native and common. Habitats include hill prairies, openings in upland forests, wooded slopes, bluffs, limestone glades, areas along woodland paths, disturbed open woodlands, thickets, pastures, and abandoned fields. Both sandy and non-sandy areas can provide suitable habitat. This little plant favors areas with reduced ground competition that are partially sunny. Occasional wildfires are probably beneficial as this reduces competition from woody vines and shrubs.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are visited primarily by small bees and flies. Among the bees, this includes Andrenid bees, Halictid bees, and cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), while fly visitors consist primarily of Syrphid flies and, to a lesser extent, flesh flies, blow flies, Muscid flies, and others. Insects that feed on Plantain-leaved Pussytoes and other Antennaria spp. (Pussytoes) include larvae of the fly Chromatomyia syngenesiae (Chrysanthemum Leafminer), gall-forming larvae of the flies Aspondylia antennariae (Everlasting Bud Midge) and Rhopalomyia antennariae (Pussytoes Bud Midge), larvae of Tebenna gnaphaliella (Everlasting Tebenna Moth), caterpillars of the butterfly Vanessa virginiensis (American Painted Lady), and the aphid Pleotrichophorus antennarius. To a limited extent, the Bobwhite Quail eats the seeds, while the White-Tailed Deer and Cottontail Rabbit browse on the foliage.
Photographic Location: The photograph of the pistillate flowerheads was taken along a woodland path at Busey Woods in Urbana, Illinois, while the remaining photographs were taken at a hilly woodland in east-central Illinois.
Comments: Plantain-leaved Pussytoes can be readily distinguished from Antennaria neglecta (Field Pussytoes) by its basal leaves. The latter species has basal leaves that are single-veined and more narrow. Field Pussytoes is also more typical of open habitats, rather than woodland areas. Because Plantain-leaved Pussytoes is a rather variable species, it is often divided into different varieties or subspecies; some authorities even divide it into different species (Mohlenbrock, 2002). These distinctions take into consideration the length of phyllaries (floral bracts) in pistillate (female) plants, and the hairiness or shape of the basal leaves. No attempt has been made to make such fine distinctions here. Some authorities state that these plants are wind-pollinated, while others emphasize the role of insects in cross-pollination.
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求助
Avacha
2018年01月14日
The spines of the cactus are soft, not prickly at all. I can’t define the species 🤨 #cactus #species #definition
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
For gardeners new to spring bulbs, daffodils (Narcissus spp.) are a bright gift. Hardy between U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on species, daffodils are less appetizing to winter grazing rodents -- and more reliable perennials -- than many other spring bulbs. They come in a variety of forms and coloration. A well-chosen collection of early-, mid- and late-season varieties will brighten your garden throughout the spring.
Mystery of the Bulb
Daffodil bulbs, like other tunicate bulbs, wear a protective layer of dried skin, or tunic, that helps insulate and keep bulbs moist. The thick layers underneath the tunic anchor this year's plant but also contain the embryo of a succeeding plant, flower and all, and enough nutritious material to keep it healthy until it is time for it to bloom, hopefully next spring. The bulb protects the growing flower from heat, drought and freezing weather.
The bulb never stops growing. It adds layers and processes and stores nutrients year-round. This prepares its hardy little occupant for the vicissitudes of unpredictable spring weather. It might even pop up through the last melting snow if conditions are right.
The Right Conditions
Every daffodil has its own rhythm to follow. Growth responds to daylight and soil temperature. Daffodils come to life when soil temperatures range from 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and as the sun rises and days lengthen. Each year brings a slightly different progression, so bloom times may vary by days or weeks from one year to another.
Early varieties such as February Gold (Narcissus 'February Gold,' USDA zones 4 to 8) and Ice Follies (Narcissus 'Ice Follies,' USDA zones 3 to 8) bloom, as their names suggest, as winter fades into very early spring. Tete-a-Tete (Narcissus 'Tete-a-Tete,' USDA zones 4 to 8) may bloom as early as February in warmer southern zones, but wait until March further north.
Mid-season begins in March in southern zones, but in cooler zones Jack Snipe (Narcissus 'Jack Snipe,' USDA zones 4 to 8), Trevithian (Narcissus 'Trevithian,' USDA zones 5 to 10) and many of the big mid-season trumpet "daffs" bloom throughout April.
Late varieties such as Salome (Narcissus 'Salome,' USDA zones 3 to 9) may bloom as late as mid-May in the north.
About Chilling
Many daffodils depend on winter chilling to keep their bloom time on track. They typically require temperatures between 35 and 48 degrees Fahrenheit for 12 to 18 weeks depending on variety -- not a problem for bulbs planted in fall in northern zones. Gardeners in USDA zone 8 and further south dig and dry bulbs with long chilling requirements after foliage dies down in summer and keep them in cool storage for three to four months before replanting. Gardeners in warmer zones can plant native daffodils such as tazetta daffodils (Narcissus 'Minnow,' USDA zones 5 through 9) that do not require lengthy chilling.
The Prolific Perennial
Daffodils are reliably perennial and will produce daughter bulbs along their bases. Separate these bulbs every two or three years after their foliage has died down in early summer. Just lay bulbs out in cool shade to dry. Pull off the daughter bulbs and plant them in sunny, well-drained soil come fall.
Mystery of the Bulb
Daffodil bulbs, like other tunicate bulbs, wear a protective layer of dried skin, or tunic, that helps insulate and keep bulbs moist. The thick layers underneath the tunic anchor this year's plant but also contain the embryo of a succeeding plant, flower and all, and enough nutritious material to keep it healthy until it is time for it to bloom, hopefully next spring. The bulb protects the growing flower from heat, drought and freezing weather.
The bulb never stops growing. It adds layers and processes and stores nutrients year-round. This prepares its hardy little occupant for the vicissitudes of unpredictable spring weather. It might even pop up through the last melting snow if conditions are right.
The Right Conditions
Every daffodil has its own rhythm to follow. Growth responds to daylight and soil temperature. Daffodils come to life when soil temperatures range from 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and as the sun rises and days lengthen. Each year brings a slightly different progression, so bloom times may vary by days or weeks from one year to another.
Early varieties such as February Gold (Narcissus 'February Gold,' USDA zones 4 to 8) and Ice Follies (Narcissus 'Ice Follies,' USDA zones 3 to 8) bloom, as their names suggest, as winter fades into very early spring. Tete-a-Tete (Narcissus 'Tete-a-Tete,' USDA zones 4 to 8) may bloom as early as February in warmer southern zones, but wait until March further north.
Mid-season begins in March in southern zones, but in cooler zones Jack Snipe (Narcissus 'Jack Snipe,' USDA zones 4 to 8), Trevithian (Narcissus 'Trevithian,' USDA zones 5 to 10) and many of the big mid-season trumpet "daffs" bloom throughout April.
Late varieties such as Salome (Narcissus 'Salome,' USDA zones 3 to 9) may bloom as late as mid-May in the north.
About Chilling
Many daffodils depend on winter chilling to keep their bloom time on track. They typically require temperatures between 35 and 48 degrees Fahrenheit for 12 to 18 weeks depending on variety -- not a problem for bulbs planted in fall in northern zones. Gardeners in USDA zone 8 and further south dig and dry bulbs with long chilling requirements after foliage dies down in summer and keep them in cool storage for three to four months before replanting. Gardeners in warmer zones can plant native daffodils such as tazetta daffodils (Narcissus 'Minnow,' USDA zones 5 through 9) that do not require lengthy chilling.
The Prolific Perennial
Daffodils are reliably perennial and will produce daughter bulbs along their bases. Separate these bulbs every two or three years after their foliage has died down in early summer. Just lay bulbs out in cool shade to dry. Pull off the daughter bulbs and plant them in sunny, well-drained soil come fall.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
There are over 100 species of tulips and many more hybrids. Tulip bulbs flower from early to late spring in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. After blooming cut off the flowers of hybrid tulips; allowing hybrid tulips to go to seed depletes bulb nutrients. Flowers of species tulips are left in place after blooming. Letting species tulips go to seed increases your stock as new bulbs eventually grow from the seeds. Knowing what type of tulips you have helps you decide how to take care of them after blooming.
Step 1
Leave the foliage and stems on the tulip bulbs, of both species and hybrid varieties, after they have bloomed. Leaving the foliage and stems to ripen, turn brown and shrivel up feeds the bulbs for next year's tulip flowers.
Step 2
Plant hybrid tulips 5 inches or more away from perennials such as yarrow, sedum spectabile or day lilies. As these plants leaf out they will grow up, arching over the unsightly, dying tulip foliage, hiding it from view. Species tulips are smaller, lower growing plants, requiring hot sunshine to fully ripen their bulbs. Grow them near edelweiss, alpine gentians and other low growing perennials that won't cover them up, so the bulbs can get the baking they need.
Step 3
Cut off dead tulip foliage and stems after they have turned completely brown, tossing it onto the compost pile.
Step 1
Leave the foliage and stems on the tulip bulbs, of both species and hybrid varieties, after they have bloomed. Leaving the foliage and stems to ripen, turn brown and shrivel up feeds the bulbs for next year's tulip flowers.
Step 2
Plant hybrid tulips 5 inches or more away from perennials such as yarrow, sedum spectabile or day lilies. As these plants leaf out they will grow up, arching over the unsightly, dying tulip foliage, hiding it from view. Species tulips are smaller, lower growing plants, requiring hot sunshine to fully ripen their bulbs. Grow them near edelweiss, alpine gentians and other low growing perennials that won't cover them up, so the bulbs can get the baking they need.
Step 3
Cut off dead tulip foliage and stems after they have turned completely brown, tossing it onto the compost pile.
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