文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are over 2,000 species of Psychotria, the genus under which Hot Lips falls. Where does Hot lips Grow? Psychotria elata is part of the tropical rainforest understory flora of the Americas. It is a unique plant with uninteresting flowers but fabulous lip-like bracts. The plant can be difficult to grow and has very special cultivation conditions.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees.
Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant.
Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees.
Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant.
Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Sandersonia commonly called Golden Lily of the Valley or Christmas Bells, is a member of the Colchicaceae family, and only one species has been recorded. They are now rare in their native habitat of Natal, South Africa, usually only seen in nature reserves.
This exquisite tuberous plant is closely related to both Gloriosa and Littonia. Although all parts of this plant are poisonous, like all in the Colchicaceae family, the Zulu people were said to use the tuber as aphrodisiac.
The plant which is completely dormant in winter emerges in late spring, making rapid growth and is in full bloom around Christmas time.
The branched stems reach up to 2 feet (60 cm) in height and produce upwards of 25 glorious thimble-sized brilliant orange bells on dainty arching pedicels. These bells are reminiscent of Chinese Lanterns and are very decorative. They are sold widely around the world as a cut flower, lasting up to 3 weeks in a vase.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sandersonia loves a sunny spot with well drained loamy soil enriched with complete fertilizer. They only require water during the growing period until the flowers have finished, we then find it to be more drought tolerant than we expected. However they do not like to be too wet over winter.
The tuber has two fleshy prongs emerging from the central ‘bulb’. These prongs should be planted down and covered with 2 inches (5 cm) of top soil with about 3.1 inches (8 cm) between each tuber. When shoots emerge they need to be protected from snails and slugs as they find them most desirable. They will do well in a pot or container so long as there is good drainage.
They increase by making a new tuber each from the growing prong and often a small ‘nut’ on the other prong. They can also be grown from seed which is usually ready to harvest about the end of April. Seed should be planted early winter, sown thinly in trays or pots using a very well drained potting medium and covered with 0.4 inch (1 cm) of mixture.
This unusual South African is a splash of brilliant color at Christmas and well worth trying.
This exquisite tuberous plant is closely related to both Gloriosa and Littonia. Although all parts of this plant are poisonous, like all in the Colchicaceae family, the Zulu people were said to use the tuber as aphrodisiac.
The plant which is completely dormant in winter emerges in late spring, making rapid growth and is in full bloom around Christmas time.
The branched stems reach up to 2 feet (60 cm) in height and produce upwards of 25 glorious thimble-sized brilliant orange bells on dainty arching pedicels. These bells are reminiscent of Chinese Lanterns and are very decorative. They are sold widely around the world as a cut flower, lasting up to 3 weeks in a vase.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sandersonia loves a sunny spot with well drained loamy soil enriched with complete fertilizer. They only require water during the growing period until the flowers have finished, we then find it to be more drought tolerant than we expected. However they do not like to be too wet over winter.
The tuber has two fleshy prongs emerging from the central ‘bulb’. These prongs should be planted down and covered with 2 inches (5 cm) of top soil with about 3.1 inches (8 cm) between each tuber. When shoots emerge they need to be protected from snails and slugs as they find them most desirable. They will do well in a pot or container so long as there is good drainage.
They increase by making a new tuber each from the growing prong and often a small ‘nut’ on the other prong. They can also be grown from seed which is usually ready to harvest about the end of April. Seed should be planted early winter, sown thinly in trays or pots using a very well drained potting medium and covered with 0.4 inch (1 cm) of mixture.
This unusual South African is a splash of brilliant color at Christmas and well worth trying.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Thelymitra, commonly called Sun Orchids, is a genus of about 80 species of terrestrial tuberous plants in the Orchidaceae family distributed throughout Australia, New Zealand and islands to the north of Australia.
They are known as “Sun Orchids” because the colorful flowers of most species only open fully on warm, sunny days, with the desert species requiring more heat than those from temperate areas.
Members of the genus Thelymitra are perennial ground orchids, which die back to underground tubers during the warm dry months of the year. They have a single basal leaf and an erect inflorescence with up to 40 flowers. The flowers may be self-pollinating or insect-pollinated and open only on warm to hot days. Flowers are usually blue, pink, yellow or white, but may have darker spots or blotches or prominent longitudinal veins.
The number of flowers per stem is variable. Some, such as the Scented Sun Orchid, will have up to 30 flowers open on a single stem. Unlike other Australian orchids, this genus has sepals and petals nearly equal in length, with the lip similar to and spreading with them. They have a solitary leaf that is usually elongated and channeled. Species are identified by their color and their column.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sun Orchids can be very tricky in cultivation. However, most are fairly amenable and some are very easy. All plants are summer dormant and rest as tuberoids. Plants emerge in late summer and flower in late winter, spring and early summer. Culture as sunny as possible. In milder climates garden culture is possible. Frost hardy up to 23°F (-5°C). Regular watering during the growing period is essential. Fertilize monthly until flowering. Reduce watering with the onset of flowers and stop as the leaves die back. Completely dry during dormancy. Occasionally a light spray of water for small plants and seedlings to prevent dehydration. If grown inside, move plants temporary outside in late summer as cool nights and some rain will stimulate plants into the new growing season.
They are known as “Sun Orchids” because the colorful flowers of most species only open fully on warm, sunny days, with the desert species requiring more heat than those from temperate areas.
Members of the genus Thelymitra are perennial ground orchids, which die back to underground tubers during the warm dry months of the year. They have a single basal leaf and an erect inflorescence with up to 40 flowers. The flowers may be self-pollinating or insect-pollinated and open only on warm to hot days. Flowers are usually blue, pink, yellow or white, but may have darker spots or blotches or prominent longitudinal veins.
The number of flowers per stem is variable. Some, such as the Scented Sun Orchid, will have up to 30 flowers open on a single stem. Unlike other Australian orchids, this genus has sepals and petals nearly equal in length, with the lip similar to and spreading with them. They have a solitary leaf that is usually elongated and channeled. Species are identified by their color and their column.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Sun Orchids can be very tricky in cultivation. However, most are fairly amenable and some are very easy. All plants are summer dormant and rest as tuberoids. Plants emerge in late summer and flower in late winter, spring and early summer. Culture as sunny as possible. In milder climates garden culture is possible. Frost hardy up to 23°F (-5°C). Regular watering during the growing period is essential. Fertilize monthly until flowering. Reduce watering with the onset of flowers and stop as the leaves die back. Completely dry during dormancy. Occasionally a light spray of water for small plants and seedlings to prevent dehydration. If grown inside, move plants temporary outside in late summer as cool nights and some rain will stimulate plants into the new growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips have long been a popular selection for gardens and cut-flower arrangements. There are about 150 tulip species that come in dozens of colors and shades. With a little effort and know-how, even beginning gardeners will find tulips are easy to grow. Tulips are popular worldwide, with numerous festivals held each year in honor of the flower.
Time Frame
Tulips are known as a spring flower, and most tulips do bloom in spring. But different varieties bloom at different times, and there are early, mid- and late bloomers. Early bloomers generally bloom in April, mid-bloomers in May and late bloomers in June.
Planting
Because tulip bulbs need to be cold while they are dormant, you need to plant them in the fall, before the first snow, for them to bloom in the spring.
Types
Tulips are a a perennial, so they will bloom every year. To keep your plants healthy, apply a fertilizer each spring and fall. You should also cut back the blossoms after their peak period is over.
Growing Conditions
Your tulips will do best in a well-drained soil and need to be watered well immediately after planting. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade.
Tips
Some gardeners have better luck with their tulips by digging up the bulbs after the spring blooming season and storing them in a cool, dry place such as a garage or shed. In the fall, they can be replanted for blooming the next spring.
Time Frame
Tulips are known as a spring flower, and most tulips do bloom in spring. But different varieties bloom at different times, and there are early, mid- and late bloomers. Early bloomers generally bloom in April, mid-bloomers in May and late bloomers in June.
Planting
Because tulip bulbs need to be cold while they are dormant, you need to plant them in the fall, before the first snow, for them to bloom in the spring.
Types
Tulips are a a perennial, so they will bloom every year. To keep your plants healthy, apply a fertilizer each spring and fall. You should also cut back the blossoms after their peak period is over.
Growing Conditions
Your tulips will do best in a well-drained soil and need to be watered well immediately after planting. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade.
Tips
Some gardeners have better luck with their tulips by digging up the bulbs after the spring blooming season and storing them in a cool, dry place such as a garage or shed. In the fall, they can be replanted for blooming the next spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Blue tulips are not a natural phenomenon. To create blue tulips, white tulips may be dyed to achieve the right color. Hybrid tulip species in shades of violet and lilac may also be created to make blue blossoms. Tulip flowers. which are often associated with Holland, grow naturally in a wide variety of shades. Deep violet tulips are often commonly called blue tulips.
Features
Blue tulips, like other tulip flowers, grow in an upright, bell-like shape. Tulips grow eight to 28 inches in height, with leaves that grow in a gray-blue shade. Blue tulips are short, the flowers blue-violet or lilac in color. Many types of violet and deep purple tulips are available to gardeners. Breeder, Darwin, Parrot, Cottage, Lily-flowered and Early tulips are the most popular varieties of blue-purple tulips. Blue tulips are also called pasque flower, wild crocus, lion's beard and prairie anemone.
Origins
Tulips originate from Persia and Turkey. In Turkey, tulip flowers were used as an adornment on turbans. Because of the fashion trend, Europeans named the flowers after the Persian word for turban. Popularity for the flower spread into the Netherlands, giving cultivated varieties of the plant the nickname "Dutch tulips." Available in a wide range of colors, tulips today are a popular choice among brides, gardeners and florists.
Meaning of Flowers
The Language of Flowers was invented during the Victorian Era, when it became fashionable to exchange messages by giving flowers. Each flower has its own meaning, with different flower colors often representing new shades of meaning. Through flowers, it's possible to express love, desire, sorrow, friendship and many other emotions.
Meaning of Blue Flowers
The color blue is symbolic of tranquility, sleep and calm. Dark blue is said to stand for truth. Blue flowers often grow with shades of purple, creating indigo, violent and lilac blooms. Blue flowers were used as the main symbol of Romanticism, a school of philosophy that flourished during the latter half of the Victorian Age. The blue flower conveys love and desire.
Meaning of Blue Tulips
Blue tulips are thought to symbolize tranquility and peace because of the blue color. When given to someone else, the flowers convey a message of trust and loyalty. In general, tulips are thought to send a message of perfect love, though red tulips are most strongly associated with the emotion.
Features
Blue tulips, like other tulip flowers, grow in an upright, bell-like shape. Tulips grow eight to 28 inches in height, with leaves that grow in a gray-blue shade. Blue tulips are short, the flowers blue-violet or lilac in color. Many types of violet and deep purple tulips are available to gardeners. Breeder, Darwin, Parrot, Cottage, Lily-flowered and Early tulips are the most popular varieties of blue-purple tulips. Blue tulips are also called pasque flower, wild crocus, lion's beard and prairie anemone.
Origins
Tulips originate from Persia and Turkey. In Turkey, tulip flowers were used as an adornment on turbans. Because of the fashion trend, Europeans named the flowers after the Persian word for turban. Popularity for the flower spread into the Netherlands, giving cultivated varieties of the plant the nickname "Dutch tulips." Available in a wide range of colors, tulips today are a popular choice among brides, gardeners and florists.
Meaning of Flowers
The Language of Flowers was invented during the Victorian Era, when it became fashionable to exchange messages by giving flowers. Each flower has its own meaning, with different flower colors often representing new shades of meaning. Through flowers, it's possible to express love, desire, sorrow, friendship and many other emotions.
Meaning of Blue Flowers
The color blue is symbolic of tranquility, sleep and calm. Dark blue is said to stand for truth. Blue flowers often grow with shades of purple, creating indigo, violent and lilac blooms. Blue flowers were used as the main symbol of Romanticism, a school of philosophy that flourished during the latter half of the Victorian Age. The blue flower conveys love and desire.
Meaning of Blue Tulips
Blue tulips are thought to symbolize tranquility and peace because of the blue color. When given to someone else, the flowers convey a message of trust and loyalty. In general, tulips are thought to send a message of perfect love, though red tulips are most strongly associated with the emotion.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Victoria amazonica (Giant Water Lily) is well known for its huge circular leaves, which are often pictured with a small child sitting supported in the center as a demonstration of their size and strength. The species is highly prized as an ornamental, despite having somewhat particular requirements for successful cultivation.
Native to tropical South America, Victoria amazonica was first discovered in Bolivia in 1801 and named Eurgale amazonica. It was subsequently moved to a new genus named in honor of Queen Victoria (originally as Victoria regia). In South America it grows in the backwaters of rivers in the Amazon basin, the Guianas and the Pantanal.
Description
Leaves: The enormous circular leaves, which grow to over 2.5 m across, have upturned rims and are anchored by long stalks arising from an underground stem buried in the mud of the river bottom. The leaves first appear as spiny heads but expand rapidly up to half a square meter per day. The upper surface has a rather quilted appearance and a waxy layer that repels water. The purplish red undersurface has a network of ribs clad in abundant sharp spines, possibly a defense against herbivorous fishes and manatees.
Air trapped in the spaces between the ribs enables the leaves to float. They are so buoyant that they can easily support the weight of a small child, and a mature leaf can support 45 kg if the load is evenly distributed. In a single season, each plant produces some 40 to 50 leaves, which cover the water surface and exclude light, thus restricting the growth of most other plants.
Flowers: The spectacular flowers are relatively short-lived, lasting only 48 hours or so. The flower is white the first evening it opens, attracting beetles with a sweet pineapple-like scent and with heat from a thermochemical reaction. At this stage the flower is female, and is open to receiving pollen picked up by the beetles on other plants. As they bumble around inside the flower they transfer pollen to the stigmas and fertilization takes place. Meanwhile the flower shuts, trapping them until the next evening.
During the following day the plant changes from female to male: the anthers mature and start producing pollen. When the flower reopens on the second evening it has changed color to purplish red and no longer emits attractive scent or heat. The beetles, dusted with their pollen, fly off to find another white flower on a different plant (each plant only ever has one white flower at a time), where the process is repeated. The flower then closes up and sinks below the surface of the water, its mission accomplished.
Cultivation
In the wild the giant waterlily is a short-lived perennial, but at Kew, Royal Botanic Gardens it is raised as an annual from seed planted each January.
In summer the flowers are hand-pollinated and then placed in a bag. This enables easy collection of the resulting seed, in the autumn. The seeds must be kept moist, preferably in water, all the time. To prevent premature germination, or death, they are kept at a constant temperature of 15 °C. In order to begin germination it is sometimes necessary to nick the seed with a scalpel, after which germination occurs in ten days. In January the newly germinated seed is pricked out into a tiny pot which is kept in water. As the plant grows, potting on into larger pots is carried out until the plant occupies a one ton pot. Loam is used as a substrate, the key factors for this choice being that it does not float, it is rich in nutrients and it has the capacity to enclose the fertilizer that is contained in the ‘feed bombs’ given to the plant.
Carlos Magdalena, who cultivates this species at Kew, notes that temperature and light are crucial. The seedlings are raised at 32 °C and the juvenile and adult plants are grown on at 26 to 32 °C. In the winter, supplementary lighting must be provided for the seedlings. A 400 watt horticultural supplementary bulb is used to give bright light for 12 hours. The brighter and longer the exposure to light, the better and faster the plant grows. Eventually, in autumn, it is the lack of light that finally causes the plant to die.
Pests and diseases are kept at bay with the provision of plenty of rich fertilizer, but aphids can be a problem.
If the plant becomes pot-bound, the crown tends to lift until it is raised out of the water. To counter this, the ‘chop and drop’ technique can be used whereby the crown is cut and planted in a new pot. Alternatively the pot can be placed deeper in the water. The general rule is: the larger the pot, the larger and healthier the plant.
General maintenance includes weekly feeding throughout the season using ‘feed bombs’ and prompt removal of decaying leaves. The pot in which the plant is growing is kept submerged in water at all times.
Native to tropical South America, Victoria amazonica was first discovered in Bolivia in 1801 and named Eurgale amazonica. It was subsequently moved to a new genus named in honor of Queen Victoria (originally as Victoria regia). In South America it grows in the backwaters of rivers in the Amazon basin, the Guianas and the Pantanal.
Description
Leaves: The enormous circular leaves, which grow to over 2.5 m across, have upturned rims and are anchored by long stalks arising from an underground stem buried in the mud of the river bottom. The leaves first appear as spiny heads but expand rapidly up to half a square meter per day. The upper surface has a rather quilted appearance and a waxy layer that repels water. The purplish red undersurface has a network of ribs clad in abundant sharp spines, possibly a defense against herbivorous fishes and manatees.
Air trapped in the spaces between the ribs enables the leaves to float. They are so buoyant that they can easily support the weight of a small child, and a mature leaf can support 45 kg if the load is evenly distributed. In a single season, each plant produces some 40 to 50 leaves, which cover the water surface and exclude light, thus restricting the growth of most other plants.
Flowers: The spectacular flowers are relatively short-lived, lasting only 48 hours or so. The flower is white the first evening it opens, attracting beetles with a sweet pineapple-like scent and with heat from a thermochemical reaction. At this stage the flower is female, and is open to receiving pollen picked up by the beetles on other plants. As they bumble around inside the flower they transfer pollen to the stigmas and fertilization takes place. Meanwhile the flower shuts, trapping them until the next evening.
During the following day the plant changes from female to male: the anthers mature and start producing pollen. When the flower reopens on the second evening it has changed color to purplish red and no longer emits attractive scent or heat. The beetles, dusted with their pollen, fly off to find another white flower on a different plant (each plant only ever has one white flower at a time), where the process is repeated. The flower then closes up and sinks below the surface of the water, its mission accomplished.
Cultivation
In the wild the giant waterlily is a short-lived perennial, but at Kew, Royal Botanic Gardens it is raised as an annual from seed planted each January.
In summer the flowers are hand-pollinated and then placed in a bag. This enables easy collection of the resulting seed, in the autumn. The seeds must be kept moist, preferably in water, all the time. To prevent premature germination, or death, they are kept at a constant temperature of 15 °C. In order to begin germination it is sometimes necessary to nick the seed with a scalpel, after which germination occurs in ten days. In January the newly germinated seed is pricked out into a tiny pot which is kept in water. As the plant grows, potting on into larger pots is carried out until the plant occupies a one ton pot. Loam is used as a substrate, the key factors for this choice being that it does not float, it is rich in nutrients and it has the capacity to enclose the fertilizer that is contained in the ‘feed bombs’ given to the plant.
Carlos Magdalena, who cultivates this species at Kew, notes that temperature and light are crucial. The seedlings are raised at 32 °C and the juvenile and adult plants are grown on at 26 to 32 °C. In the winter, supplementary lighting must be provided for the seedlings. A 400 watt horticultural supplementary bulb is used to give bright light for 12 hours. The brighter and longer the exposure to light, the better and faster the plant grows. Eventually, in autumn, it is the lack of light that finally causes the plant to die.
Pests and diseases are kept at bay with the provision of plenty of rich fertilizer, but aphids can be a problem.
If the plant becomes pot-bound, the crown tends to lift until it is raised out of the water. To counter this, the ‘chop and drop’ technique can be used whereby the crown is cut and planted in a new pot. Alternatively the pot can be placed deeper in the water. The general rule is: the larger the pot, the larger and healthier the plant.
General maintenance includes weekly feeding throughout the season using ‘feed bombs’ and prompt removal of decaying leaves. The pot in which the plant is growing is kept submerged in water at all times.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Ranunculus is a large genus of about 600 species of plants in the Ranunculaceae. Members of the genus include the Buttercups, Spearworts, and Water Crowfoots.
They produce cheery multi-petaled flowers. The almost unpronounceable name covers a large group of perennials from Asia and Europe. The plants aren’t very hardy and may be annual in colder zones. They are easily damaged by temperatures below 28°F (-2°C), and thrive best in USDA zones 8 to 10.
A colorful field of flowers livens up the landscape and is easy to achieve with Ranunculus plants. Ranunculus bulbs come in several sizes and are best planted 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Using Ranunculus for the garden will reward the grower with an abundance of color and texture from early spring into the first month of summer. Ranunculus for the garden come in an array of colors from white, red and gold to orange, yellow and pink. The flowers boast layers of petals and will develop up to 12 inches (30 cm) in height. You can choose standard sized Ranunculus plants or dwarf specimens, which only get 8 inches (20 cm) high. Some varieties will produce flowers that span 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) in width. You may start Ranunculus bulbs directly outdoors or purchase started transplants at a nursery. The tubers must be soaked prior to planting for best results. Use the plants in borders, containers and wildflower fields. The thick rosettes will last for a week or more when used as cut flowers. Plant bulbs outside in fall in warmer zones and start them indoors in pots in cooler climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display.
Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results.
Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season.
Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Plants require temperatures of no more than 60 F. (16 C.) during the day and 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C) at night to break dormancy and begin sprouting. Plants may survive as perennials in Zone 7 if you mulch lightly around the bases. Follow these suggestions when growing Ranunculus flowers for garden displays or cut flowers and you will reap the rewards year after year.
They produce cheery multi-petaled flowers. The almost unpronounceable name covers a large group of perennials from Asia and Europe. The plants aren’t very hardy and may be annual in colder zones. They are easily damaged by temperatures below 28°F (-2°C), and thrive best in USDA zones 8 to 10.
A colorful field of flowers livens up the landscape and is easy to achieve with Ranunculus plants. Ranunculus bulbs come in several sizes and are best planted 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Using Ranunculus for the garden will reward the grower with an abundance of color and texture from early spring into the first month of summer. Ranunculus for the garden come in an array of colors from white, red and gold to orange, yellow and pink. The flowers boast layers of petals and will develop up to 12 inches (30 cm) in height. You can choose standard sized Ranunculus plants or dwarf specimens, which only get 8 inches (20 cm) high. Some varieties will produce flowers that span 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) in width. You may start Ranunculus bulbs directly outdoors or purchase started transplants at a nursery. The tubers must be soaked prior to planting for best results. Use the plants in borders, containers and wildflower fields. The thick rosettes will last for a week or more when used as cut flowers. Plant bulbs outside in fall in warmer zones and start them indoors in pots in cooler climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display.
Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results.
Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season.
Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Plants require temperatures of no more than 60 F. (16 C.) during the day and 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C) at night to break dormancy and begin sprouting. Plants may survive as perennials in Zone 7 if you mulch lightly around the bases. Follow these suggestions when growing Ranunculus flowers for garden displays or cut flowers and you will reap the rewards year after year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Mimosa is a genus which has more than 400 species of shrubs and herbs. Out of these, two species stand out because of their distinct characteristics. The Mimosa pudica, native to South America and southern Central America, displays a magical show of folding its leaves in when touched or subjected to sunlight. The Mimosa tenuiflora has gained immense popularity because of the dimethyltryptamine drug, a psychedelic drug used in shamanic brews, found in its root bark.
Mimosa is an extremely fast-growing deciduous tree. On an average, it grows to a height of 20 to 40 feet (6 to 12 m). Its bark is dark brown in color and has a smooth texture.
The soft, green leaves of Mimosa look very similar to that of the fern plant. They are 5 – 8 inches (12.5 to 20 cm) in length and 3 – 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in width. These leaves grow in a cluster and appear as a feather on the lime-green colored stems. The foliage has a special, sensitive characteristic, in which the leaflets tend to fold themselves in at night. It is because of this peculiarity, that the tree’s Persian name means “Night Sleeper”, and it is known as the “Sleeping Tree” in Japan.
The flowers of the Mimosa are aromatic. Interestingly, it is not the petals, but the long thread-like stamens of these flowers that make them look so showy and colorful. They bloom during summer, between April and July, and grow in clusters at the end of the branches.
As it belongs to the legume family, its fruits develop from flat pods. These pods are straw-colored, oval-shaped, and 6 inches (15 cm) long. Though these pods ripen by August or September, they stay on the plant until winter, after which they either drop off or are blown away by the wind. Each pod contains about 5 – 10 seeds which are about half an inch in size, oval-shaped, and brown in color.
Growing Conditions
Mimosa is capable of growing in some really hardy zones and can survive in temperatures as low as -10 degrees Fahrenheit (-23 degrees Celsius). Although it grows exceptionally well in bright and full sunlight, it can grow in partially shaded areas as well. The plant can grow on a large variety of soil types like clay, loam, and sandy soil. The soil should ideally be acidic but a mild alkaline soil would suffice too. The plant is known to survive in droughts and hence requires little watering.
General Care
The ideal time for planting a Mimosa is during the spring on a well drained soil. As these flowering plants prefer soil which is acidic in nature, it is advised that you add peat moss and composted leaves at regular intervals to maintain its acidic properties. Water the plant and soil enough, but not so much as to saturate it. Keep the area under the tree clean, by sweeping away the fallen flowers and seed pods. Pruning of the branches should ideally be done during fall. This tree often tends to get infested by pests like webworm caterpillars. If affected, the branches should be removed as soon as possible to prevent any collateral damage to the plant. If not taken care of, the need to spray insecticides might arise.
Now that you know about the conditions favorable for growing a Mimosa and the most preferable time to grow it, you can plant it in your garden, patio, or deck. The Mimosa can reproduce speedily and cover vast areas in a short period of time. Plant it for decorative purposes to enhance the beauty of your garden.
Propagation
Reproduction occurs both, vegetatively as well as by pollination. The seeds are dispersed mainly in the areas close to the parent plant, but may be dispersed to other areas by water or wildlife as well. In vegetative reproduction, trees are cut back for the purpose of regrowth.
Mimosa is an extremely fast-growing deciduous tree. On an average, it grows to a height of 20 to 40 feet (6 to 12 m). Its bark is dark brown in color and has a smooth texture.
The soft, green leaves of Mimosa look very similar to that of the fern plant. They are 5 – 8 inches (12.5 to 20 cm) in length and 3 – 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in width. These leaves grow in a cluster and appear as a feather on the lime-green colored stems. The foliage has a special, sensitive characteristic, in which the leaflets tend to fold themselves in at night. It is because of this peculiarity, that the tree’s Persian name means “Night Sleeper”, and it is known as the “Sleeping Tree” in Japan.
The flowers of the Mimosa are aromatic. Interestingly, it is not the petals, but the long thread-like stamens of these flowers that make them look so showy and colorful. They bloom during summer, between April and July, and grow in clusters at the end of the branches.
As it belongs to the legume family, its fruits develop from flat pods. These pods are straw-colored, oval-shaped, and 6 inches (15 cm) long. Though these pods ripen by August or September, they stay on the plant until winter, after which they either drop off or are blown away by the wind. Each pod contains about 5 – 10 seeds which are about half an inch in size, oval-shaped, and brown in color.
Growing Conditions
Mimosa is capable of growing in some really hardy zones and can survive in temperatures as low as -10 degrees Fahrenheit (-23 degrees Celsius). Although it grows exceptionally well in bright and full sunlight, it can grow in partially shaded areas as well. The plant can grow on a large variety of soil types like clay, loam, and sandy soil. The soil should ideally be acidic but a mild alkaline soil would suffice too. The plant is known to survive in droughts and hence requires little watering.
General Care
The ideal time for planting a Mimosa is during the spring on a well drained soil. As these flowering plants prefer soil which is acidic in nature, it is advised that you add peat moss and composted leaves at regular intervals to maintain its acidic properties. Water the plant and soil enough, but not so much as to saturate it. Keep the area under the tree clean, by sweeping away the fallen flowers and seed pods. Pruning of the branches should ideally be done during fall. This tree often tends to get infested by pests like webworm caterpillars. If affected, the branches should be removed as soon as possible to prevent any collateral damage to the plant. If not taken care of, the need to spray insecticides might arise.
Now that you know about the conditions favorable for growing a Mimosa and the most preferable time to grow it, you can plant it in your garden, patio, or deck. The Mimosa can reproduce speedily and cover vast areas in a short period of time. Plant it for decorative purposes to enhance the beauty of your garden.
Propagation
Reproduction occurs both, vegetatively as well as by pollination. The seeds are dispersed mainly in the areas close to the parent plant, but may be dispersed to other areas by water or wildlife as well. In vegetative reproduction, trees are cut back for the purpose of regrowth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Nymphaea is a genus of hardy and tender aquatic plants in the family Nymphaeaceae. Many species are cultivated as ornamental plants, and many cultivars have been bred. Plants of the genus are known commonly as Water Lilies.
There are about 50 species of Water Lily plants, inhabiting every part of the world. Water Lilies are tuberous growing plants that can be planted in pots and submerged in your pond or even in a tub on your patio, where they will send up round, floating leaves and beautiful, sometimes fragrant, star shaped flowers to the surface.
Tropical Water Lilies require more specialized care, which varies considerably, but they all require 70°F (21°C) water temperatures. The upside of growing tropical varieties is that they typically fragrant, have larger flowers, and come in some really hot, exotic colors. Several species of tropical Water Lily are night blooming as well!
Hardy Water Lilies are very durable and easy to grow water plants for the beginner. They will bloom continuously from spring until fall if dead flower stems are removed at the soil level regularly. Each flower will open at dawn and close at dusk, for 3-4 days before and sinking from sight and fruiting.
Most commonly available Water Lily plants are hybrids bred for several North American species. Some species of Water Lilies can become a weed in some areas, so beware!
Growing Conditions
Like any other perennial, each different Water Lily may have specific needs when it comes to their sunlight, soil, fertilization, water depth and pruning requirements. When shopping for Water Lilies, be sure to check the requirements of that specific plant, before you decide that you must have it! Generally, Water Lilies require a minimum of four to five hours of full sun each day to produce the most blooms. They should be planted in a large, wide pot, using a slightly acidic mixture of clay and loam with a pH of 6.1-7.0. Commercial potting mixes often contain amendments that float, so if you are using a commercial mix be sure that it is specifically for aquatic plants! Adding a few goldfish to your pond will take care of most insect pests that attack aquatic plants as well as devouring the mosquito larvae.
Planting
When planting, use a suitable container that is wide (12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) and shallow (8 to 10 inches / 20 to 25 cm). Before planting, press 3-4 aquatic fertilizer pellets down into the soil. The rhizome grows out horizontally, like that of an Iris, so rather than centering them in the pot, they should be set near the edge of the pot, pointed to the center, with the growing tip pointing slightly upward. Cover the soil with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) layer of small rocks or pea gravel to keep the soil in place. Lower the pot into the pond at an angle to allow it to fill with water gradually. The planter can be set at a 6 inches (15 cm) depth initially to give new growth a jump start. As soon as the first foliage hits the surface, it should be moved to a depth appropriate for the species or variety. Normally, smaller types should be set so that the rim of the pot is 18 inches (45 cm) below the water surface, and large varieties should be set at a minimum of 36 inches (90 cm). In all cases, make sure the roots are below the freeze line of the water, unless you plan on storing the rhizomes over winter. Water lilies should be fed at the beginning of the summer and again at mid season using aquatic plant fertilizer tablets which are pressed into the soil.
All tropical Water Lily species will need to over-winter in a heated area! If your pond or tub freezes solid in winter, you will have to lift the pot and store it indoors for the winter. Remove all dead and dying foliage. Lift the planter from the pond and store the entire pot in a plastic bag, in a cool area. Optionally, you can remove and clean the rhizomes and store them in moist peat moss at 40 to 50 °F (4 to 10 °C).
Propagation
Hardy Water Lilies should be divided every 2-3 years, depending on the planter size. Remove the soil from the planter with a water hose to expose the rhizomes. Divide the tuber-like rhizomes and replant them in the spring or summer.
There are about 50 species of Water Lily plants, inhabiting every part of the world. Water Lilies are tuberous growing plants that can be planted in pots and submerged in your pond or even in a tub on your patio, where they will send up round, floating leaves and beautiful, sometimes fragrant, star shaped flowers to the surface.
Tropical Water Lilies require more specialized care, which varies considerably, but they all require 70°F (21°C) water temperatures. The upside of growing tropical varieties is that they typically fragrant, have larger flowers, and come in some really hot, exotic colors. Several species of tropical Water Lily are night blooming as well!
Hardy Water Lilies are very durable and easy to grow water plants for the beginner. They will bloom continuously from spring until fall if dead flower stems are removed at the soil level regularly. Each flower will open at dawn and close at dusk, for 3-4 days before and sinking from sight and fruiting.
Most commonly available Water Lily plants are hybrids bred for several North American species. Some species of Water Lilies can become a weed in some areas, so beware!
Growing Conditions
Like any other perennial, each different Water Lily may have specific needs when it comes to their sunlight, soil, fertilization, water depth and pruning requirements. When shopping for Water Lilies, be sure to check the requirements of that specific plant, before you decide that you must have it! Generally, Water Lilies require a minimum of four to five hours of full sun each day to produce the most blooms. They should be planted in a large, wide pot, using a slightly acidic mixture of clay and loam with a pH of 6.1-7.0. Commercial potting mixes often contain amendments that float, so if you are using a commercial mix be sure that it is specifically for aquatic plants! Adding a few goldfish to your pond will take care of most insect pests that attack aquatic plants as well as devouring the mosquito larvae.
Planting
When planting, use a suitable container that is wide (12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) and shallow (8 to 10 inches / 20 to 25 cm). Before planting, press 3-4 aquatic fertilizer pellets down into the soil. The rhizome grows out horizontally, like that of an Iris, so rather than centering them in the pot, they should be set near the edge of the pot, pointed to the center, with the growing tip pointing slightly upward. Cover the soil with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) layer of small rocks or pea gravel to keep the soil in place. Lower the pot into the pond at an angle to allow it to fill with water gradually. The planter can be set at a 6 inches (15 cm) depth initially to give new growth a jump start. As soon as the first foliage hits the surface, it should be moved to a depth appropriate for the species or variety. Normally, smaller types should be set so that the rim of the pot is 18 inches (45 cm) below the water surface, and large varieties should be set at a minimum of 36 inches (90 cm). In all cases, make sure the roots are below the freeze line of the water, unless you plan on storing the rhizomes over winter. Water lilies should be fed at the beginning of the summer and again at mid season using aquatic plant fertilizer tablets which are pressed into the soil.
All tropical Water Lily species will need to over-winter in a heated area! If your pond or tub freezes solid in winter, you will have to lift the pot and store it indoors for the winter. Remove all dead and dying foliage. Lift the planter from the pond and store the entire pot in a plastic bag, in a cool area. Optionally, you can remove and clean the rhizomes and store them in moist peat moss at 40 to 50 °F (4 to 10 °C).
Propagation
Hardy Water Lilies should be divided every 2-3 years, depending on the planter size. Remove the soil from the planter with a water hose to expose the rhizomes. Divide the tuber-like rhizomes and replant them in the spring or summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The Meconopsis genus contains short lived hardy perennials that reach a height of 1 to 5 feet (30 cm to 1.5 m). They carry poppy like flowers that can bloom in spring, summer or the start of autumn (species dependent). Many Meconopsis species are known for their blue poppy like flowers but they can also carry flowers of many other colors including white, orange, pink and yellow. Some of the common names for Meconopsis include Welsh Poppy, Asiatic Poppy, Blue Poppy and Harebell Poppy.
The Blue Poppy is the national flower of Bhutan. Welsh poppies can be invasive.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Full sunlight (cool areas only); full or partial shade. Acidic soil. Add grit to heavy soils. Nutrient-rich soil, add manure, leaf matter or compost if necessary. Moist soil. Supply mulch of manure of bark chippings when planting to help maintain moisture; do not cover the crowns. Regular watering during dry periods in summer to keep the soil moist. No need to water in the winter as the plant prefers a dry soil whilst resting. Cut back to the ground in autumn. Replace regularly as Meconopsis do not live for long time.
How to Grow from Seeds
The seeds of the Meconopsis should be sown on the surface; this can wither be done just before the last frost of spring or towards the end of autumn. Blue Poppies prefer to grow in a shady or partially shady part of the gardens but can tolerate sunny areas in milder climates. They like a rich acidic soil, ideally the soil should be kept moist in the summer, but allowed to dry in the winter.
When starting Blue Poppy off indoors do so about two months in advance. The Meconopsis seeds should be sown in vermiculite. It should take about two to four weeks for blue poppy to germinate at 54 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (12 to 18 degrees Celsius). Once growing the seedlings should be watered from beneath. Once ready transplant the young Meconopsis plants at a spacing of 12 inches/30 cm (small) to 2.5-3 feet/75-90 cm (large) apart. This should be done following the last frost of spring.
Grower’s Tips
When growing Meconopsis plants in the garden it is very important to keep the soil moist in the summer. Once the growing period has finished, cut back Meconopsis plant to ground level (autumn). If you require more plants then they can be propagated by division at the start of spring.
The Blue Poppy is the national flower of Bhutan. Welsh poppies can be invasive.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Full sunlight (cool areas only); full or partial shade. Acidic soil. Add grit to heavy soils. Nutrient-rich soil, add manure, leaf matter or compost if necessary. Moist soil. Supply mulch of manure of bark chippings when planting to help maintain moisture; do not cover the crowns. Regular watering during dry periods in summer to keep the soil moist. No need to water in the winter as the plant prefers a dry soil whilst resting. Cut back to the ground in autumn. Replace regularly as Meconopsis do not live for long time.
How to Grow from Seeds
The seeds of the Meconopsis should be sown on the surface; this can wither be done just before the last frost of spring or towards the end of autumn. Blue Poppies prefer to grow in a shady or partially shady part of the gardens but can tolerate sunny areas in milder climates. They like a rich acidic soil, ideally the soil should be kept moist in the summer, but allowed to dry in the winter.
When starting Blue Poppy off indoors do so about two months in advance. The Meconopsis seeds should be sown in vermiculite. It should take about two to four weeks for blue poppy to germinate at 54 to 64 degrees Fahrenheit (12 to 18 degrees Celsius). Once growing the seedlings should be watered from beneath. Once ready transplant the young Meconopsis plants at a spacing of 12 inches/30 cm (small) to 2.5-3 feet/75-90 cm (large) apart. This should be done following the last frost of spring.
Grower’s Tips
When growing Meconopsis plants in the garden it is very important to keep the soil moist in the summer. Once the growing period has finished, cut back Meconopsis plant to ground level (autumn). If you require more plants then they can be propagated by division at the start of spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Solidago, commonly called Goldenrod, is a genus of about 120 species of flowering plants in the Aster Family, Asteraceae. Topped with plumes of fluffy yellow flowers, Goldenrod is sometimes considered a weed.
Unknowing gardeners may find it a nuisance and wonder, “What is the plant Goldenrod good for?” Goldenrod plants have multiple uses, from providing shelter to larvae of beneficial insects to attracting butterflies. Learn how to grow goldenrod and experience the many benefits.
After learning the many benefits of planting Goldenrod and the simplicity of Goldenrod care, you may wish to include it near your garden. Goldenrod plants provide nectar for migrating butterflies and bees, encouraging them to remain in the area and pollinate your crops. Planting Goldenrod near the vegetable garden can draw bad bugs away from valuable vegetables. Goldenrods attract beneficial insects as well, which may do away with damaging insects when they approach the food source offered by these plants. More than a hundred varieties of Goldenrod exist, with one for every climate. Many are native to the United States.
Goldenrod plants are clump-forming perennial wildflowers that exist on rainwater and add a golden beauty to the landscape. Often thought of as the cause of summer allergies, the species is falsely accused, as the pollen from allergy-creating ragweed is present at the time of Goldenrod blooms. All Goldenrods are late bloomers, flowering in late summer throughout fall with stunning bright yellow flowers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing and planting Goldenrod is easy, as this plant will survive just about anywhere, though it does prefer to be grown in full sun. Goldenrod also tolerates various soil types as long as it’s well draining.
Goldenrod care is minimal once established in the landscape, with plants returning each year. They require little, if any watering, and are drought tolerant.
Clumps need division every four to five years. Cuttings may also be taken in spring and planted in the garden.
Learning how to grow Goldenrod offers many advantages. Bad bugs can be drawn to the plant and consumed by beneficial insects that hatch their young there. Planting Goldenrod adds beauty and attracts butterflies to your landscape.
Unknowing gardeners may find it a nuisance and wonder, “What is the plant Goldenrod good for?” Goldenrod plants have multiple uses, from providing shelter to larvae of beneficial insects to attracting butterflies. Learn how to grow goldenrod and experience the many benefits.
After learning the many benefits of planting Goldenrod and the simplicity of Goldenrod care, you may wish to include it near your garden. Goldenrod plants provide nectar for migrating butterflies and bees, encouraging them to remain in the area and pollinate your crops. Planting Goldenrod near the vegetable garden can draw bad bugs away from valuable vegetables. Goldenrods attract beneficial insects as well, which may do away with damaging insects when they approach the food source offered by these plants. More than a hundred varieties of Goldenrod exist, with one for every climate. Many are native to the United States.
Goldenrod plants are clump-forming perennial wildflowers that exist on rainwater and add a golden beauty to the landscape. Often thought of as the cause of summer allergies, the species is falsely accused, as the pollen from allergy-creating ragweed is present at the time of Goldenrod blooms. All Goldenrods are late bloomers, flowering in late summer throughout fall with stunning bright yellow flowers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Growing and planting Goldenrod is easy, as this plant will survive just about anywhere, though it does prefer to be grown in full sun. Goldenrod also tolerates various soil types as long as it’s well draining.
Goldenrod care is minimal once established in the landscape, with plants returning each year. They require little, if any watering, and are drought tolerant.
Clumps need division every four to five years. Cuttings may also be taken in spring and planted in the garden.
Learning how to grow Goldenrod offers many advantages. Bad bugs can be drawn to the plant and consumed by beneficial insects that hatch their young there. Planting Goldenrod adds beauty and attracts butterflies to your landscape.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
What southern garden is complete without the majestic, fragrant Magnolia tree? If you’ve long admired the beauty of Magnolias, you’ll be happy to learn that they’re quite easy to grow. And with over 80 species native to North America and Asia, there’s sure to be one that’s right for your yard.
With their glorious flowers and dramatic foliage, magnolias are a garden favorite. Magnolias:
– Require very little care.
– Are resistant to many diseases and pests.
– Tolerate harsh Southern summers.
– Provide year-round beauty.
– Seeds and foliage are favorites of migrating birds.
As you dream about Magnolias in your yard, keep in mind that there are many different species and varieties to choose from. They range in size from 20 to 80 feet (6 to 24 m) tall, with both evergreen and deciduous species.
Growing Conditions
Although different species of Magnolia can tolerate slightly different conditions, in general they will do best with:
Soil: Slightly acidic, moist, loose, well-draining soil. To mimic Magnolia’s natural conditions, amend heavy soil with peat moss and compost.
Hardiness: Grow best in Zones 7-10, depending on variety, with a few cultivars hardy to zone 5.
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Moist, peaty soil can help Magnolias tolerate full sun. If you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance, avoid planting Magnolias in southern exposure since the leaves can be damaged by winter sun and flowers may open prematurely.
Water: Magnolias benefit from irrigation the first few years, then they are tolerant of moderate drought.
Space: They need room to grow to their full mature size and width. While looking small when first planted, over time they’ll grow to fill up the space.
Flowers: Some varieties of Magnolia don’t bloom until 15 years old, so be sure to choose one that’s fits your needs and expectations. Grafted plants (rather than seed-grown) bloom sooner.
Planting Tips
Timing: Plant container-grown and balled-and-burlapped Magnolias in fall or spring. Plant field-grown or transplanted Magnolias in early spring. Avoid fall planting if you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance.
Spread Roots: When planting, be sure to cut any roots that are circling the root ball. Magnolias have a tendency to girdle (or become rootbound) if the roots aren’t spread out.
Water: Give your new Magnolia one inch of water per week.
Fertilizer: Don’t fertilize your newly planted Magnolia until next growing season. Then for the next three years or so, feed your Magnolia with a balanced organic fertilizer every other month between March and September, cutting back to once or twice per season after that.
Support: Use stakes and lines to stabilize your new magnolia since it will be top-heavy.
Growing Tips
Problems: Magnolias are generally trouble-free, and in most cases, minor problems – such as scale or leaf spots – can be left untreated.
Pruning: If you want to prune or shape your Magnolia, do it while the tree is very young since large branches don’t heal very well from pruning.
Bark Damage: Magnolias are susceptible to bark damage and breakage, so avoid hitting them with the string trimmer or lawn mower.
Propagating: You can propagate Magnolias by collecting the seeds, or take semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer. Cuttings can take up to a year to root.
Transplanting: Magnolias have an enormous, rope-like root system. They don’t usually tolerate transplanting once the trunk is 4 inches (10 cm) or larger in diameter.
With their glorious flowers and dramatic foliage, magnolias are a garden favorite. Magnolias:
– Require very little care.
– Are resistant to many diseases and pests.
– Tolerate harsh Southern summers.
– Provide year-round beauty.
– Seeds and foliage are favorites of migrating birds.
As you dream about Magnolias in your yard, keep in mind that there are many different species and varieties to choose from. They range in size from 20 to 80 feet (6 to 24 m) tall, with both evergreen and deciduous species.
Growing Conditions
Although different species of Magnolia can tolerate slightly different conditions, in general they will do best with:
Soil: Slightly acidic, moist, loose, well-draining soil. To mimic Magnolia’s natural conditions, amend heavy soil with peat moss and compost.
Hardiness: Grow best in Zones 7-10, depending on variety, with a few cultivars hardy to zone 5.
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Moist, peaty soil can help Magnolias tolerate full sun. If you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance, avoid planting Magnolias in southern exposure since the leaves can be damaged by winter sun and flowers may open prematurely.
Water: Magnolias benefit from irrigation the first few years, then they are tolerant of moderate drought.
Space: They need room to grow to their full mature size and width. While looking small when first planted, over time they’ll grow to fill up the space.
Flowers: Some varieties of Magnolia don’t bloom until 15 years old, so be sure to choose one that’s fits your needs and expectations. Grafted plants (rather than seed-grown) bloom sooner.
Planting Tips
Timing: Plant container-grown and balled-and-burlapped Magnolias in fall or spring. Plant field-grown or transplanted Magnolias in early spring. Avoid fall planting if you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance.
Spread Roots: When planting, be sure to cut any roots that are circling the root ball. Magnolias have a tendency to girdle (or become rootbound) if the roots aren’t spread out.
Water: Give your new Magnolia one inch of water per week.
Fertilizer: Don’t fertilize your newly planted Magnolia until next growing season. Then for the next three years or so, feed your Magnolia with a balanced organic fertilizer every other month between March and September, cutting back to once or twice per season after that.
Support: Use stakes and lines to stabilize your new magnolia since it will be top-heavy.
Growing Tips
Problems: Magnolias are generally trouble-free, and in most cases, minor problems – such as scale or leaf spots – can be left untreated.
Pruning: If you want to prune or shape your Magnolia, do it while the tree is very young since large branches don’t heal very well from pruning.
Bark Damage: Magnolias are susceptible to bark damage and breakage, so avoid hitting them with the string trimmer or lawn mower.
Propagating: You can propagate Magnolias by collecting the seeds, or take semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer. Cuttings can take up to a year to root.
Transplanting: Magnolias have an enormous, rope-like root system. They don’t usually tolerate transplanting once the trunk is 4 inches (10 cm) or larger in diameter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Coreopsis are native American prairie and woodland plants. Their ruggedness and profuse blooms have made them popular with plant breeders and there are over 100 different species available, although not all are perennial plants.
Low maintenance, drought tolerant and long blooming, Coreopsis are work horses in a sunny flower border. Their common name, “Tickseed”, is supposedly for the seeds resemblance to ticks. That doesn’t stop the birds from devouring them, if you leave the seed heads on during the winter.
Most Coreopsis are clump forming, holding their daisy-like flowers on tall stems, above the foliage. There the similarity ends. There is a good amount of variety among Coreopsis species.
Growing Conditions
Light: Coreopsis will bloom best in full sun, but it can also be successfully grown in partial shade. The plants may get a bit lankier in partial shade, but they will adapt. In areas with intense dry, heat, plants may even prefer some afternoon shade.
Water: They will need regular water when first planted, until they are established.
Temperature: Most of the perennial Coreopsis are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9.
Soil: They are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH.
Fertilizer: Fertilization of growing Coreopsis is not needed, and too much fertilizer may limit flower production.
Grower’s Tips
Most varieties are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. Many can be grown from seed, either started indoors, 4-6 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct seeded outdoors. Many will seed themselves, however the hybrid varieties do not grow true to seed.
Coreopsis will need regular water when first planted, until they are established. After that, they are quite drought tolerant.
Deadheading will keep the plants blooming throughout the summer. Some of the smaller flowered varieties are difficult to deadhead and you may prefer to shear the plants, once the first flush of flowers fade. They will fill in quickly.
Most Coreopsis plants will form tidy clumps, but some of the taller species may require staking to look attractive, especially if grown in partial shade.
Although they are rugged plants, they don’t tend to live more than 3 to 5 years. A decrease in flowering is a signal it is time to divide the plants or plant some new ones from seed.
Pests and Diseases
For the most part, Coreopsis grow problem free. In damp seasons they many fall prey to snails and slugs and fungal diseases can affect them. To avoid these problems as much as possible, give them plenty of air circulation and plant them in full sun.
Low maintenance, drought tolerant and long blooming, Coreopsis are work horses in a sunny flower border. Their common name, “Tickseed”, is supposedly for the seeds resemblance to ticks. That doesn’t stop the birds from devouring them, if you leave the seed heads on during the winter.
Most Coreopsis are clump forming, holding their daisy-like flowers on tall stems, above the foliage. There the similarity ends. There is a good amount of variety among Coreopsis species.
Growing Conditions
Light: Coreopsis will bloom best in full sun, but it can also be successfully grown in partial shade. The plants may get a bit lankier in partial shade, but they will adapt. In areas with intense dry, heat, plants may even prefer some afternoon shade.
Water: They will need regular water when first planted, until they are established.
Temperature: Most of the perennial Coreopsis are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9.
Soil: They are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH.
Fertilizer: Fertilization of growing Coreopsis is not needed, and too much fertilizer may limit flower production.
Grower’s Tips
Most varieties are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. Many can be grown from seed, either started indoors, 4-6 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct seeded outdoors. Many will seed themselves, however the hybrid varieties do not grow true to seed.
Coreopsis will need regular water when first planted, until they are established. After that, they are quite drought tolerant.
Deadheading will keep the plants blooming throughout the summer. Some of the smaller flowered varieties are difficult to deadhead and you may prefer to shear the plants, once the first flush of flowers fade. They will fill in quickly.
Most Coreopsis plants will form tidy clumps, but some of the taller species may require staking to look attractive, especially if grown in partial shade.
Although they are rugged plants, they don’t tend to live more than 3 to 5 years. A decrease in flowering is a signal it is time to divide the plants or plant some new ones from seed.
Pests and Diseases
For the most part, Coreopsis grow problem free. In damp seasons they many fall prey to snails and slugs and fungal diseases can affect them. To avoid these problems as much as possible, give them plenty of air circulation and plant them in full sun.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Polygonatum also known as King Solomon’s Seal or Solomon’s Seal is a close relative of the Lily of the Valley, with several similar species that are native to North America, northern Europe and Siberia, and cultivated as popular garden ornamentals. The hardy perennial has stems of 3 feet (90 cm) in height that finally curve gracefully and bear pale green, oval leaves and drooping clusters of creamy white flowers, followed by blue-black berries.
Solomon’s Seal plants are an excellent choice for woodland or shade gardens and for using as background plantings with hardy ferns. They look great when planted in large containers. Solomon’s Seal plants are usually grown from rhizomes which should be planted 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the spring or fall.
Solomon’s Seal has a rich history that goes back many thousands of years. Herbalists and healers, both in Europe and North America and the Far East, have written about its diverse effects on numerous conditions. It can be used as a herbal tincture, salve, tea or supplement. As an alternative remedy, it may offer relief, healing or mending to sports injuries and other conditions related to tendons, joints, ligaments, bones, bruises, connecting tissues, cartilage, etc. It also soothes and repairs gastrointestinal inflammation and injuries. It is effective for feminine issues, such as menstrual cramps, PMS, bleeding, and the like. Additionally, it is known to lower blood pressure and relieve dry coughs.
Growing Conditions
Plants are usually started by transplants or rhizomes. Seeds of Polygonatum can take up to 2 years to sprout, so you will get some seeding in established plantings.
Solomon’s Seal like a rich organic soil with a pH in the acidic to neutral zone. They need some shade to truly thrive. Damp shade is even better, although once established, they are quite drought tolerant. Plants can be started in the spring or fall. Plant only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) deep and about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart.
General Care
Solomon’s Seal seldom needs division. It takes several years before a clump is large enough to divide for propagation purposes. When ready, divide in early spring or fall and leave several buds on each division, for the best success. The rhizomes can be divided even further, but it will take longer for them to become established. Another option is to remove and plant just the offsets at the out edges of a clump.
Solomon’s Seal does not require deadheading. The flowers are small and will drop off naturally. The foliage remains attractive all season, so the plant is virtually maintenance free. The stems even disconnect from the rhizomes on their own, after frost. But before that, the foliage turns a nice golden yellow.
Pests and Diseases
Healthy Solomon’s Seal growing in good conditions seem to have few problems. If the weather is extremely damp, you may see signs of powdery mildew or another fugal disease. These should ameliorate as things dry out. Better air circulation will also help. Slugs and snails can also become a problem in damper areas.
Solomon’s Seal plants are an excellent choice for woodland or shade gardens and for using as background plantings with hardy ferns. They look great when planted in large containers. Solomon’s Seal plants are usually grown from rhizomes which should be planted 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the spring or fall.
Solomon’s Seal has a rich history that goes back many thousands of years. Herbalists and healers, both in Europe and North America and the Far East, have written about its diverse effects on numerous conditions. It can be used as a herbal tincture, salve, tea or supplement. As an alternative remedy, it may offer relief, healing or mending to sports injuries and other conditions related to tendons, joints, ligaments, bones, bruises, connecting tissues, cartilage, etc. It also soothes and repairs gastrointestinal inflammation and injuries. It is effective for feminine issues, such as menstrual cramps, PMS, bleeding, and the like. Additionally, it is known to lower blood pressure and relieve dry coughs.
Growing Conditions
Plants are usually started by transplants or rhizomes. Seeds of Polygonatum can take up to 2 years to sprout, so you will get some seeding in established plantings.
Solomon’s Seal like a rich organic soil with a pH in the acidic to neutral zone. They need some shade to truly thrive. Damp shade is even better, although once established, they are quite drought tolerant. Plants can be started in the spring or fall. Plant only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) deep and about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart.
General Care
Solomon’s Seal seldom needs division. It takes several years before a clump is large enough to divide for propagation purposes. When ready, divide in early spring or fall and leave several buds on each division, for the best success. The rhizomes can be divided even further, but it will take longer for them to become established. Another option is to remove and plant just the offsets at the out edges of a clump.
Solomon’s Seal does not require deadheading. The flowers are small and will drop off naturally. The foliage remains attractive all season, so the plant is virtually maintenance free. The stems even disconnect from the rhizomes on their own, after frost. But before that, the foliage turns a nice golden yellow.
Pests and Diseases
Healthy Solomon’s Seal growing in good conditions seem to have few problems. If the weather is extremely damp, you may see signs of powdery mildew or another fugal disease. These should ameliorate as things dry out. Better air circulation will also help. Slugs and snails can also become a problem in damper areas.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Oenothera is a genus of about 145 species of herbaceous flowering plants native to the Americas. It is the type genus of the family Onagraceae. Common names include Evening Primrose, Suncups, and Sundrops. They are not closely related to the true Primroses (genus Primula).
The species vary in size from small alpine plants up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall, to vigorous lowland species growing up to 10 feet (3 m). The leaves form a basal rosette at ground level and spiral up to the flowering stems. The blades are dentate or deeply lobed. The flowers of many species open in the evening, hence the name “Evening Primrose”. They may open in under a minute. Most species have yellow flowers, but some have white, purple, pink, or red. Most native desert species are white. One of the most distinctive features of the flower is the stigma, which has four branches in an X shape.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Oenothera plants can be propagated by dividing established clumps in the spring or in the fall. Softwood cuttings may be struck in late spring. Easy to grow Oenothera seeds can be sown directly in the garden in late summer, early fall, or planted early in the spring.
Just cover the small seeds, and germinate at 65° to 70°F (18° to 21°C). Seeds require darkness to break dormancy. Space plants 5 to 9 inches (13 to 23 cm) apart. Plant in light, well drained soil with a pH of around 5.5 to 7.0. Sandy soil works well for this plant.
Oenothera is tolerant of dry and is a good candidate for xeriscaping. In really fertile soil the foliage can be robust, but fewer flowers form. Top dress with fully composted manure in the spring. Provide irrigation during long hot spells, and cut the plants back by a third after flowering to keep them looking neat. Hot summer weather may cause the plants to briefly stop flowering. Powdery mildew sometimes appears in humid conditions.
The species vary in size from small alpine plants up to 4 inches (10 cm) tall, to vigorous lowland species growing up to 10 feet (3 m). The leaves form a basal rosette at ground level and spiral up to the flowering stems. The blades are dentate or deeply lobed. The flowers of many species open in the evening, hence the name “Evening Primrose”. They may open in under a minute. Most species have yellow flowers, but some have white, purple, pink, or red. Most native desert species are white. One of the most distinctive features of the flower is the stigma, which has four branches in an X shape.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Oenothera plants can be propagated by dividing established clumps in the spring or in the fall. Softwood cuttings may be struck in late spring. Easy to grow Oenothera seeds can be sown directly in the garden in late summer, early fall, or planted early in the spring.
Just cover the small seeds, and germinate at 65° to 70°F (18° to 21°C). Seeds require darkness to break dormancy. Space plants 5 to 9 inches (13 to 23 cm) apart. Plant in light, well drained soil with a pH of around 5.5 to 7.0. Sandy soil works well for this plant.
Oenothera is tolerant of dry and is a good candidate for xeriscaping. In really fertile soil the foliage can be robust, but fewer flowers form. Top dress with fully composted manure in the spring. Provide irrigation during long hot spells, and cut the plants back by a third after flowering to keep them looking neat. Hot summer weather may cause the plants to briefly stop flowering. Powdery mildew sometimes appears in humid conditions.
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