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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Calendula is a genus of about 15–20 species of annual and perennial herbaceous plants in the daisy family Asteraceae that are often known as Marigolds. They are native to southwestern Asia, western Europe, Macaronesia, and the Mediterranean.
Calendulas have been used traditionally as culinary and medicinal herbs. The most commonly cultivated and used member of the genus is the Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis). Popular herbal and cosmetic products named “Calendula” invariably derive from C. officinalis.
The Calendula flower has long been a staple in British cottage gardens. When used in stews, broths and salads, petals of the flower add a spicy taste similar to saffron to many dishes. All parts of the plants are useful in many ways. The plant is said to stimulate the immune system and is currently used as an ingredient in many cosmetics. Flowers and leaves may be dried and stored for later use. In the vegetable garden, Calendula draws aphids away from valuable plants.
Romans and Greeks used the golden Calendula in many rituals and ceremonies, sometimes wearing crowns or garlands made from the flowers. One of its nicknames is “Mary’s Gold,” referring to the flowers’ use in early Catholic events in some countries. Flowers are sacred flowers in India and have been used to decorate the statues of Hindu deities since early times.
While uses of Calendula plants are diverse, growing it in the flower or herb garden is an optimum use of this attractive plant. Plants are frost tolerant and somewhat cold hardy and add long-lasting color and beauty in a flower bed or container.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The Calendula flower or flowering herb is an annual which will readily reseed. Too much care can result in stunted or slow growth of the plants. Poor to average, well draining soil and only occasional watering after plants are established is the secret to growing prolific Calendula plants.
Like most herbs, Calendulas are adaptable and do not require a lot of maintenance. Roots will often adapt to the space provided. The amazing Pot Marigold can be grown in containers or beds in full sun to shade conditions. As the Calendulas prefer cool temperatures, flowers last longer in filtered sun or shady areas.
If deadheaded regularly, this plant can bloom from spring through fall and beyond. In warmer areas, the Calendula may take a break from blooming during summer heat and then put on a show as temperatures fall in autumn. Regular pinching keeps the 1- to 3-foot (30 to 90 cm) plant bushy and prevents tall, spindly stalks.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow Calendulas, take advantage of their long-lasting blooms in the herb garden or light shade area. Experiment with use of Calendula flower petals to replace saffron in recipes. If you are so inclined, use plant parts as a topical treatment for minor scrapes and cuts.
Calendulas have been used traditionally as culinary and medicinal herbs. The most commonly cultivated and used member of the genus is the Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis). Popular herbal and cosmetic products named “Calendula” invariably derive from C. officinalis.
The Calendula flower has long been a staple in British cottage gardens. When used in stews, broths and salads, petals of the flower add a spicy taste similar to saffron to many dishes. All parts of the plants are useful in many ways. The plant is said to stimulate the immune system and is currently used as an ingredient in many cosmetics. Flowers and leaves may be dried and stored for later use. In the vegetable garden, Calendula draws aphids away from valuable plants.
Romans and Greeks used the golden Calendula in many rituals and ceremonies, sometimes wearing crowns or garlands made from the flowers. One of its nicknames is “Mary’s Gold,” referring to the flowers’ use in early Catholic events in some countries. Flowers are sacred flowers in India and have been used to decorate the statues of Hindu deities since early times.
While uses of Calendula plants are diverse, growing it in the flower or herb garden is an optimum use of this attractive plant. Plants are frost tolerant and somewhat cold hardy and add long-lasting color and beauty in a flower bed or container.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The Calendula flower or flowering herb is an annual which will readily reseed. Too much care can result in stunted or slow growth of the plants. Poor to average, well draining soil and only occasional watering after plants are established is the secret to growing prolific Calendula plants.
Like most herbs, Calendulas are adaptable and do not require a lot of maintenance. Roots will often adapt to the space provided. The amazing Pot Marigold can be grown in containers or beds in full sun to shade conditions. As the Calendulas prefer cool temperatures, flowers last longer in filtered sun or shady areas.
If deadheaded regularly, this plant can bloom from spring through fall and beyond. In warmer areas, the Calendula may take a break from blooming during summer heat and then put on a show as temperatures fall in autumn. Regular pinching keeps the 1- to 3-foot (30 to 90 cm) plant bushy and prevents tall, spindly stalks.
Now that you’ve learned how to grow Calendulas, take advantage of their long-lasting blooms in the herb garden or light shade area. Experiment with use of Calendula flower petals to replace saffron in recipes. If you are so inclined, use plant parts as a topical treatment for minor scrapes and cuts.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Heuchera also known as Alumroot or Coral Bells, is a genus of evergreen, herbaceous perennial plants in the family Saxifragaceae, all native to North America. There are 50 to 70 species of Heuchera. Many of the improved varieties available today are hybrids showcasing various foliage colorations and flowering characteristics.
With its colorful foliage, Coral Bells are the perfect perennials to brighten up any garden throughout the entire growing season. Coral Bell forms attractive basal mounds with heart-shaped, rounded, or triangular leaves which can be smooth wavy, or ruffled. The leaf coloration varies by cultivar, but mainly includes various hues of amber, bronze-green, green, gold, pink, purple, deep purple and silver veined. In many instances, the coloration of the leaves varies with their environment and often changes with the seasons. In most locations, they are considered evergreen as the foliage lasts throughout the year. They produce clusters of cream to red colored coral bell shaped flowers on tall wiry stems that rise above the basal foliage in the late spring. Depending on the cultivar, they bloom from a few weeks or throughout the entire season.
Coral Bells are commonly used as accent or specimen plants, in woodland gardens or rock gardens, and as groundcovers or mass plantings. They are commonly used in patio pots or as components in mixed containers. The flower panicles make fine additions to cut flower arrangements. Coral Bells attracts butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. They are also deer resistant.
Growing Conditions
Coral Bells prefer to be planted in locations with a fertile, moist, well-drained soil. They particularly do not perform well in locations with poor drainage during the winter months. Most Heuchera cultivars will grow more vigorously and have the best leaf coloration when they are planted in locations with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon. Purple leafed cultivars can tolerate more direct sun; in general the darker the purple coloration the more exposure to sun they can tolerate. Conversely, the amber and gold leafed cultivars are less sun tolerant; the more yellow the leaf coloration, the less tolerant to sun they are. In locations with full sun or full shade, most cultivars will usually survive, but they will be smaller and not look as lively.
Coral Bells are generally hardy throughout Zones 4 to 9. However, several cultivars are hardy to Zone 3 and a few of them can tolerate the heat and humidity of Zone 11.
General Care
Generally considered easy to grow and require little routine maintenance. To encourage continuous flowering or repeat bloom, deadhead the spent flower spikes as needed. Mulching during the summer months will help keep the soil moist and prevent injury to the shallow root system from heat. Coral Bells can be divided every 3 to 4 years if they lose vigor or when the crown gets too large.
Pests and Diseases
Generally, Coral Bells can be grown without any insect or disease problems. Bacterial and fungal leaf spots, Botrytis, Japanese beetles, powdery mildew, and strawberry root weevils may occasionally, but not usually, become problematic. Some cultivars may get leaf scorch when they are planted in hot, full sun. Overly wet conditions during the winter months can lead to some plants rotting out. Where climates fluctuate, frost heaving (where the plants push themselves up out of the ground) can be a concern; mulching before winter may help prevent this problem.
With its colorful foliage, Coral Bells are the perfect perennials to brighten up any garden throughout the entire growing season. Coral Bell forms attractive basal mounds with heart-shaped, rounded, or triangular leaves which can be smooth wavy, or ruffled. The leaf coloration varies by cultivar, but mainly includes various hues of amber, bronze-green, green, gold, pink, purple, deep purple and silver veined. In many instances, the coloration of the leaves varies with their environment and often changes with the seasons. In most locations, they are considered evergreen as the foliage lasts throughout the year. They produce clusters of cream to red colored coral bell shaped flowers on tall wiry stems that rise above the basal foliage in the late spring. Depending on the cultivar, they bloom from a few weeks or throughout the entire season.
Coral Bells are commonly used as accent or specimen plants, in woodland gardens or rock gardens, and as groundcovers or mass plantings. They are commonly used in patio pots or as components in mixed containers. The flower panicles make fine additions to cut flower arrangements. Coral Bells attracts butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. They are also deer resistant.
Growing Conditions
Coral Bells prefer to be planted in locations with a fertile, moist, well-drained soil. They particularly do not perform well in locations with poor drainage during the winter months. Most Heuchera cultivars will grow more vigorously and have the best leaf coloration when they are planted in locations with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon. Purple leafed cultivars can tolerate more direct sun; in general the darker the purple coloration the more exposure to sun they can tolerate. Conversely, the amber and gold leafed cultivars are less sun tolerant; the more yellow the leaf coloration, the less tolerant to sun they are. In locations with full sun or full shade, most cultivars will usually survive, but they will be smaller and not look as lively.
Coral Bells are generally hardy throughout Zones 4 to 9. However, several cultivars are hardy to Zone 3 and a few of them can tolerate the heat and humidity of Zone 11.
General Care
Generally considered easy to grow and require little routine maintenance. To encourage continuous flowering or repeat bloom, deadhead the spent flower spikes as needed. Mulching during the summer months will help keep the soil moist and prevent injury to the shallow root system from heat. Coral Bells can be divided every 3 to 4 years if they lose vigor or when the crown gets too large.
Pests and Diseases
Generally, Coral Bells can be grown without any insect or disease problems. Bacterial and fungal leaf spots, Botrytis, Japanese beetles, powdery mildew, and strawberry root weevils may occasionally, but not usually, become problematic. Some cultivars may get leaf scorch when they are planted in hot, full sun. Overly wet conditions during the winter months can lead to some plants rotting out. Where climates fluctuate, frost heaving (where the plants push themselves up out of the ground) can be a concern; mulching before winter may help prevent this problem.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Phlomis is a genus of about 100 species of herbaceous plants, perennials, and shrubs that belong to the mint family Lamiaceae. Phlomis are all native to the Mediterranean region and spreading east across central Asia and China.
Phlomis shrubs have grayish green leaves that are slightly hairy and they are known for their whorls of yellow, white, or lilac flowers. The flowers generally consist of two-lipped corollas with calyces which are often spine-tipped. Their tall stature and interesting blooms make them great for bordering flower beds and other landscaped areas. Small species of Phlomis are also useful in rock gardens. Two of the common names of Phlomis include Jerusalem Sage and Lampwick Plant.
Phlomis varies depending on the specific type but generally the plants grow up to 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm). They can be quite useful in the winter because their tall stalks and seed heads have a sculptural quality to them. Phlomis stalks produce small seedlings which can gradually spread out over an area. They are easy to control, though. You can just pull them up and relocate them to another area if you wish.
Growing in a Container
If you wish to plant Phlomis in a container, make use of a large one filled with compost with a soil foundation. Try not to be too generous in feeding and watering your plant as it actually grows well in drought. Once your Phlomis begins to form flowers, you may need to do some trimming as it has a tendency to grow uncontrollably. Trimming it back will put a limit to this. When winter comes, keep the plant protected in a cool area. Always remember that you should water it as minimally as possible.
Selecting Seeds and Transplanting
For propagating purposes, select seeds of medium size preferably during autumn. Make use of plug or seed trays, covering them with a thin coating of compost. Place them in a cool area. The germination process can be quite swift. As soon as your seedlings are big enough, you may begin to transplant them into an area of your garden that is safe from the frost.
Garden Cultivation
For garden cultivating, plant you Phlomis into your seed beds after all the dangers of frost have passed. Place them in groups of about 3 to 4 seeds separating them from each other by 24 to 30 inches (60 to 75 cm). Keep them under full sunlight and partial shade. They survive drought during the milder climates of summer and will only require minimal watering when the weather is extremely hot.
Maintaining Plant Health
To properly maintain Phlomis, you may divide the plants that are completely established when necessary during the season of spring. Come summertime, start trimming after the flowering stage to help retain the plant’s shape. Autumn is always the best time to start planting your seeds. During the cold winter, make sure that your plant is protected, especially those that are grown outdoors.
Phlomis shrubs have grayish green leaves that are slightly hairy and they are known for their whorls of yellow, white, or lilac flowers. The flowers generally consist of two-lipped corollas with calyces which are often spine-tipped. Their tall stature and interesting blooms make them great for bordering flower beds and other landscaped areas. Small species of Phlomis are also useful in rock gardens. Two of the common names of Phlomis include Jerusalem Sage and Lampwick Plant.
Phlomis varies depending on the specific type but generally the plants grow up to 3 to 4 feet (90 to 120 cm). They can be quite useful in the winter because their tall stalks and seed heads have a sculptural quality to them. Phlomis stalks produce small seedlings which can gradually spread out over an area. They are easy to control, though. You can just pull them up and relocate them to another area if you wish.
Growing in a Container
If you wish to plant Phlomis in a container, make use of a large one filled with compost with a soil foundation. Try not to be too generous in feeding and watering your plant as it actually grows well in drought. Once your Phlomis begins to form flowers, you may need to do some trimming as it has a tendency to grow uncontrollably. Trimming it back will put a limit to this. When winter comes, keep the plant protected in a cool area. Always remember that you should water it as minimally as possible.
Selecting Seeds and Transplanting
For propagating purposes, select seeds of medium size preferably during autumn. Make use of plug or seed trays, covering them with a thin coating of compost. Place them in a cool area. The germination process can be quite swift. As soon as your seedlings are big enough, you may begin to transplant them into an area of your garden that is safe from the frost.
Garden Cultivation
For garden cultivating, plant you Phlomis into your seed beds after all the dangers of frost have passed. Place them in groups of about 3 to 4 seeds separating them from each other by 24 to 30 inches (60 to 75 cm). Keep them under full sunlight and partial shade. They survive drought during the milder climates of summer and will only require minimal watering when the weather is extremely hot.
Maintaining Plant Health
To properly maintain Phlomis, you may divide the plants that are completely established when necessary during the season of spring. Come summertime, start trimming after the flowering stage to help retain the plant’s shape. Autumn is always the best time to start planting your seeds. During the cold winter, make sure that your plant is protected, especially those that are grown outdoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Bomarea is a tuberous member of the family Alstroemeriaceae. There are about 100 species, some of which are non-climbing, growing more like a ground cover, although the majority are climbers. They are found from Mexico on South, through the tropics and into the Andes, down to Southern Chile, and are mostly plants of the forest understory, where they grow through adjacent vegetation in lightly shaded conditions. Some species are coastal, growing in the fog belt of Chile, so, not surprisingly they do very well in Coastal California. Other species can only be found in the high altitude Páramo of South America.
Bomarea is related to Alstroemeria where both flowers and leaves demonstrate this close relationship. The beautiful flowers of this genus are produced in a dense umbel at the end of the growing shoots. Each umbel can be composed of as many as 30 to 45 flowers if well grown, with flowers consisting of three outer tepals and three inner, sometimes of contrasting colors.
Seed Germination
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods.
To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius). Planted this way the seeds can germinate in as little as 2 weeks but they can be a little erratic so don’t be despondent if they don’t all sprout at the same time as some can take longer.
If you are planting stored seeds then stratify for around 3 weeks at 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) then 3 weeks at 41 degrees Fahrenheit (5 degrees Celsius) as this will trick the seed into thinking that winter has passed and it is time to start growing. Seeds that go through stratification may take up to 2 months to germinate.
Keep growing medium moist but not wet or soggy and do not let the growing medium dry out.
Once your seedling has several true leaves and are big enough to handle you should carefully prick out your new plants and place them into individual pots. Once they mature over the next few months you can then pot them on again into a large planter or container or even into your garden soil in warmer and milder climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
Bomarea is related to Alstroemeria where both flowers and leaves demonstrate this close relationship. The beautiful flowers of this genus are produced in a dense umbel at the end of the growing shoots. Each umbel can be composed of as many as 30 to 45 flowers if well grown, with flowers consisting of three outer tepals and three inner, sometimes of contrasting colors.
Seed Germination
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods.
To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius). Planted this way the seeds can germinate in as little as 2 weeks but they can be a little erratic so don’t be despondent if they don’t all sprout at the same time as some can take longer.
If you are planting stored seeds then stratify for around 3 weeks at 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) then 3 weeks at 41 degrees Fahrenheit (5 degrees Celsius) as this will trick the seed into thinking that winter has passed and it is time to start growing. Seeds that go through stratification may take up to 2 months to germinate.
Keep growing medium moist but not wet or soggy and do not let the growing medium dry out.
Once your seedling has several true leaves and are big enough to handle you should carefully prick out your new plants and place them into individual pots. Once they mature over the next few months you can then pot them on again into a large planter or container or even into your garden soil in warmer and milder climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Penstemon is one of our more spectacular native plants. Found in mountainous areas and their foothills, the herbaceous species is a temperate zone darling and thrives in most areas of the western United States. Also called Beard Tongue, the plant produces dozens of tubular flowers arranged on a tall stalk.
If you have gone hiking in areas of Mexico to western North America from May to August, you will have seen these attractive flowers. Penstemon plants are related to Snapdragons and come in a variety of cultivated hues for the home gardener. The flowers are perfectly shaped to accommodate hummingbirds, who spend their nesting period at the Penstemon snack bar.
Each flower has five petals and they come in hues of lavender, salmon, pink, red and white. The stems are triangular and the leaves are arranged opposite with grayish green tones. Several different species exist and more are in cultivation. The exact shape of the leaves varies in each cultivar of Penstemon plants. They may be oval or sword shaped, smooth or waxy.
Penstemon is a commonly found perennial, which may also grow as an annual in chilly or excessively hot regions.
Growing Conditions
The best location for your Penstemon is in a full sun area with well draining soil. Penstemon care and maintenance is minimal if the site and moisture requirements are met. Poorly draining soils and freezing temperatures while the plant is still active are the biggest causes of plant mortality.
The perennial is remarkably tolerant of drought conditions and is a stalwart presence in even low nutrient soils. It has had to be adaptable to thrive in windy, exposed areas of mountain foothills.
Propagation
You can grow Penstemon from seed. They begin as rosettes low to the ground before forming the characteristic flower stalk. Indoor sowing should begin in late winter. Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have a second set of true leaves.
Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart and mix in a little compost at planting time to help conserve water and increase porosity.
Care and Maintenance
Water the young plants at least once per week as they establish. You can reduce watering as the plant matures. Mulch around the plants to help protect the roots from winter’s cold and prevents spring weeds.
The flower spire will produce seed in late summer to early fall and the petals fall away from the seeds.Penstemon makes an excellent cut flower, which will last for at least a week. Go native and plant some Penstemon plants in your sunny perennial garden.
If you have gone hiking in areas of Mexico to western North America from May to August, you will have seen these attractive flowers. Penstemon plants are related to Snapdragons and come in a variety of cultivated hues for the home gardener. The flowers are perfectly shaped to accommodate hummingbirds, who spend their nesting period at the Penstemon snack bar.
Each flower has five petals and they come in hues of lavender, salmon, pink, red and white. The stems are triangular and the leaves are arranged opposite with grayish green tones. Several different species exist and more are in cultivation. The exact shape of the leaves varies in each cultivar of Penstemon plants. They may be oval or sword shaped, smooth or waxy.
Penstemon is a commonly found perennial, which may also grow as an annual in chilly or excessively hot regions.
Growing Conditions
The best location for your Penstemon is in a full sun area with well draining soil. Penstemon care and maintenance is minimal if the site and moisture requirements are met. Poorly draining soils and freezing temperatures while the plant is still active are the biggest causes of plant mortality.
The perennial is remarkably tolerant of drought conditions and is a stalwart presence in even low nutrient soils. It has had to be adaptable to thrive in windy, exposed areas of mountain foothills.
Propagation
You can grow Penstemon from seed. They begin as rosettes low to the ground before forming the characteristic flower stalk. Indoor sowing should begin in late winter. Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have a second set of true leaves.
Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart and mix in a little compost at planting time to help conserve water and increase porosity.
Care and Maintenance
Water the young plants at least once per week as they establish. You can reduce watering as the plant matures. Mulch around the plants to help protect the roots from winter’s cold and prevents spring weeds.
The flower spire will produce seed in late summer to early fall and the petals fall away from the seeds.Penstemon makes an excellent cut flower, which will last for at least a week. Go native and plant some Penstemon plants in your sunny perennial garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
There are over 400 species of tropical Passion Flowers (the genus Passiflora) with sizes ranging from 0.5 inch to 6 inches (1.3 to 15 cm) across. They are found naturally from South America through Mexico. Early missionaries to these regions used the distinctly colored patterns of the flowers parts to teach about the passion’of Christ; hence the name.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Their vibrant colors and heady fragrance make the Passion Flower a welcome addition to any garden. Unfortunately, because of its origins, most species of Passion Flower plant can’t overwinter in many gardens in the United States, although there are a few that will survive up to USDA plant hardiness zone 5. Most varieties will grow in Zones 7-10.
Because they are vines, the best place for growing Passion Flower is along a trellis or fence. The tops will be killed off during winter, but if you mulch deeply, your Passion Flower plant will return with new shoots in the spring. Since growing Passion Flowers can reach 20 feet (6 m) in a single season, this die back will help keep the vine under control.
Tropical Passion Flowers need full sun and well drained soil. Two applications of a well-balanced fertilizer per year, once in early spring and one in midsummer is all the Passion Flower care you’ll need.
If you live in an area where winters are too harsh for tender Passion Flower care, don’t despair. Growing Passion Flowers indoors is as easy as finding a big pot and a window with bright light. Plant your vine in a rich commercial indoor potting soil and keep it uniformly moist, not wet.
Move your plant outdoors after all danger of frost is past and let your vine run wild. Come fall, cut back the growth to a reasonable height and bring it back indoors. Knowing how to grow Passion Flower is all it takes to bring a little of the tropics to your patio or porch.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Their vibrant colors and heady fragrance make the Passion Flower a welcome addition to any garden. Unfortunately, because of its origins, most species of Passion Flower plant can’t overwinter in many gardens in the United States, although there are a few that will survive up to USDA plant hardiness zone 5. Most varieties will grow in Zones 7-10.
Because they are vines, the best place for growing Passion Flower is along a trellis or fence. The tops will be killed off during winter, but if you mulch deeply, your Passion Flower plant will return with new shoots in the spring. Since growing Passion Flowers can reach 20 feet (6 m) in a single season, this die back will help keep the vine under control.
Tropical Passion Flowers need full sun and well drained soil. Two applications of a well-balanced fertilizer per year, once in early spring and one in midsummer is all the Passion Flower care you’ll need.
If you live in an area where winters are too harsh for tender Passion Flower care, don’t despair. Growing Passion Flowers indoors is as easy as finding a big pot and a window with bright light. Plant your vine in a rich commercial indoor potting soil and keep it uniformly moist, not wet.
Move your plant outdoors after all danger of frost is past and let your vine run wild. Come fall, cut back the growth to a reasonable height and bring it back indoors. Knowing how to grow Passion Flower is all it takes to bring a little of the tropics to your patio or porch.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Orchids are exotic plants that create beautiful blooms. With the right care, most orchids bloom at least once per year. Every orchid species has slightly different needs in order to thrive and bloom, but the variables are all the same – light, temperature, water, potting material, and humidity. By adjusting the environment for your particular species of orchid and providing a few seasonal triggers, you can get your plants to bloom.
1. Providing the Right Growth Environment
Make sure the light intensity is correct for the species
There are many species of orchids, but Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common and easiest species to grow. This is the kind that is sold in most florist shops and nurseries. Placing them on a sunny windowsill will usually make them happy. They like bright light, but not direct sun.
Provide the right amount of water
The Phalaenopsis orchid likes to be watered once per week during its resting period (when it experiences no growth or blooms) and twice per week during active growth. It prefers to be kept dry between waterings. This means you should only water it when the potting material (which is usually a free-draining blend of fir bark) appears dry, or else the orchid could die. If the bark looks damp, it’s too soon.
Water your orchid early in the morning.
Most indoor orchids should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the species and season.
Maintain a humid environment
Most orchids are tropical plants, so they prefer a humidity level that they probably aren’t getting in the average living room. During the winter, a 30 percent humidity level is average for a home. The Phalaenopsis orchid likes 40 to 70 percent humidity. Most other orchids prefer 60 to 80 percent humidity. By adjusting the humidity for them, all orchid species will grow a little better. If you group your plants together in one growing area, this will create humidity.
2. Triggering Blooms
Consider using full-spectrum lights
When an orchid refuses to bloom, the reason is usually because it isn’t getting enough light. If you are unable to provide the right amount of natural light for your orchid, look into setting up full-spectrum lights indoors. You can purchase these lighting systems at nurseries or order them online.
Use a fertilizer formulated for orchids
Feeding an orchid the right fertilizers can stimulate it to grow faster and bloom sooner. Look for orchid food that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). It should also include trace elements like iron. Always read and follow the instructions of your orchid food carefully. Orchids should be watered thoroughly before fertilizing them.
Fertilize your orchid once per month during the active growing season
The active growing season for orchids is approximately March through November. Don’t fertilize from mid-December until mid-February. If you fertilize it less than that, its growth may become stunted and blooms won’t appear. If you fertilize it more frequently than that, you risk burning the roots and leaves of the plant.
Drop the temperature by 10 degrees at night
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are temperature sensitive. In nature, their blooms are triggered when fall arrives and the temperatures drop at night. If an orchid doesn’t experience a period of cooler nights, even an indoor orchid, it may refuse to make buds or bloom. If your orchid is sitting in a window, it’s probably experiencing natural temperature drops coming from outside to some extent. However, this may not be enough to trigger blooms. Before you go to bed each night, turn your thermostat down by 10 degrees.
One to two weeks of nightly temperature drops will usually trigger an orchid to bloom, as long as it’s the right time of their growth cycle.
For Phalaenopsis orchids, provide night temperatures of 60°F (15.5°C) and day temperatures of 80°F (25°C).
Diagnosing Your Orchid
Pay attention to the season
Each species of orchid has a growth season – a time of the year when it will naturally bloom. If it currently isn’t the orchid’s growth season, it isn’t going to bloom. Most orchids, including the Phalaenopsis orchid, will experience the growth of new leaves during the summer months. Spikes and flower buds will appear in late fall and soon after it will bloom. It will continue to bloom until spring. The blooming season usually ends around mid-February.
Check the leaf color
If an orchid isn’t blooming, the reason is almost always because it’s not getting enough light. One of the best ways to figure out if your orchid is getting enough light is to check its leaf color. A healthy orchid getting the right amount of sun exposure will have bright green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, your orchid isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot, like a south-facing window. If the leaves are reddish-green, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a less sunny spot, like an east or north-facing window.
Check the stems and leaves for signs of dehydration
If the stems and leaves appear wilted or shriveled, your orchid needs more water. You will always need to water more frequently when the orchid is actively blooming. During the resting period (when there are no blooms), water your orchid about once per week. During the active blooming phase, water it twice per week.
Increase watering when you see new shoots and roots appear on your orchid.
Too much water can kill an orchid quickly. Never allow your orchid to sit in a soggy, water-logged pot.
Evaluate the potting material
Most orchids, including Phalaenopsis, do not grow in regular soil. They need a growing medium that provides fast water drainage and good air circulation. A free-draining blend of fir bark (sometimes referred as fir bark nuggets) is the most popular potting material for moth orchids. If you can’t identify your plant’s current growing medium, re-pot it in fir bark.
1. Providing the Right Growth Environment
Make sure the light intensity is correct for the species
There are many species of orchids, but Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common and easiest species to grow. This is the kind that is sold in most florist shops and nurseries. Placing them on a sunny windowsill will usually make them happy. They like bright light, but not direct sun.
Provide the right amount of water
The Phalaenopsis orchid likes to be watered once per week during its resting period (when it experiences no growth or blooms) and twice per week during active growth. It prefers to be kept dry between waterings. This means you should only water it when the potting material (which is usually a free-draining blend of fir bark) appears dry, or else the orchid could die. If the bark looks damp, it’s too soon.
Water your orchid early in the morning.
Most indoor orchids should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the species and season.
Maintain a humid environment
Most orchids are tropical plants, so they prefer a humidity level that they probably aren’t getting in the average living room. During the winter, a 30 percent humidity level is average for a home. The Phalaenopsis orchid likes 40 to 70 percent humidity. Most other orchids prefer 60 to 80 percent humidity. By adjusting the humidity for them, all orchid species will grow a little better. If you group your plants together in one growing area, this will create humidity.
2. Triggering Blooms
Consider using full-spectrum lights
When an orchid refuses to bloom, the reason is usually because it isn’t getting enough light. If you are unable to provide the right amount of natural light for your orchid, look into setting up full-spectrum lights indoors. You can purchase these lighting systems at nurseries or order them online.
Use a fertilizer formulated for orchids
Feeding an orchid the right fertilizers can stimulate it to grow faster and bloom sooner. Look for orchid food that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). It should also include trace elements like iron. Always read and follow the instructions of your orchid food carefully. Orchids should be watered thoroughly before fertilizing them.
Fertilize your orchid once per month during the active growing season
The active growing season for orchids is approximately March through November. Don’t fertilize from mid-December until mid-February. If you fertilize it less than that, its growth may become stunted and blooms won’t appear. If you fertilize it more frequently than that, you risk burning the roots and leaves of the plant.
Drop the temperature by 10 degrees at night
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are temperature sensitive. In nature, their blooms are triggered when fall arrives and the temperatures drop at night. If an orchid doesn’t experience a period of cooler nights, even an indoor orchid, it may refuse to make buds or bloom. If your orchid is sitting in a window, it’s probably experiencing natural temperature drops coming from outside to some extent. However, this may not be enough to trigger blooms. Before you go to bed each night, turn your thermostat down by 10 degrees.
One to two weeks of nightly temperature drops will usually trigger an orchid to bloom, as long as it’s the right time of their growth cycle.
For Phalaenopsis orchids, provide night temperatures of 60°F (15.5°C) and day temperatures of 80°F (25°C).
Diagnosing Your Orchid
Pay attention to the season
Each species of orchid has a growth season – a time of the year when it will naturally bloom. If it currently isn’t the orchid’s growth season, it isn’t going to bloom. Most orchids, including the Phalaenopsis orchid, will experience the growth of new leaves during the summer months. Spikes and flower buds will appear in late fall and soon after it will bloom. It will continue to bloom until spring. The blooming season usually ends around mid-February.
Check the leaf color
If an orchid isn’t blooming, the reason is almost always because it’s not getting enough light. One of the best ways to figure out if your orchid is getting enough light is to check its leaf color. A healthy orchid getting the right amount of sun exposure will have bright green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, your orchid isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot, like a south-facing window. If the leaves are reddish-green, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a less sunny spot, like an east or north-facing window.
Check the stems and leaves for signs of dehydration
If the stems and leaves appear wilted or shriveled, your orchid needs more water. You will always need to water more frequently when the orchid is actively blooming. During the resting period (when there are no blooms), water your orchid about once per week. During the active blooming phase, water it twice per week.
Increase watering when you see new shoots and roots appear on your orchid.
Too much water can kill an orchid quickly. Never allow your orchid to sit in a soggy, water-logged pot.
Evaluate the potting material
Most orchids, including Phalaenopsis, do not grow in regular soil. They need a growing medium that provides fast water drainage and good air circulation. A free-draining blend of fir bark (sometimes referred as fir bark nuggets) is the most popular potting material for moth orchids. If you can’t identify your plant’s current growing medium, re-pot it in fir bark.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Aster is a large genus of 250 species of annuals, biennials, perennials, and subshrubs from many different kinds of habitats, mainly in North America. The flowers resemble small daisies, with yellow disk florets, and white, pink, blue, or purple ray florets. The leaves are generally alternate, simple, and lance-shaped. There is an Aster for most any type of garden, including borders, rock gardens, waterside plantings, dry areas, and wildflower gardens.
Care for your Asters with some basic rules of thumb, and be rewarded with spectacular blossoms in a variety of colors. Planting these wonderful stars (aster is Greek for star) will uplift and brighten your fall garden. Ranging from 8 inches to almost 8 feet (20 cm to almost 2.4 m), these flowers make good border plants, but be careful of mildew diseases that attack them.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Divide mature plants in spring, just as the new shoots begin to grow. This should be done every few years to avoid crowding of plants.
As with many other flowering plants, dead head (cut back spent flowers) to make room for newer blossoms. This will extend the health and flowering of your plants. Be sure to dead head early on in the blooming season. Blooming will be reduced if done too late. This will also restrain unwanted reseeding which will cause plant overcrowding.
Remember, Asters are prone to mildew so be careful to plant them in areas with good circulation and good sun exposure.
As with other flowering plants, do not allow water to saturate leaves. Be sure to water at the plant’s roots to prevent mildew and mold. Drip irrigation and utilization of a soaker hose work very well in watering these plants.
Propagating
Asters can be grown indoors or may be sown into the garden directly (providing danger of frost is well past). Plant them in early spring, preparing gardens with a tiller to loosen soil. Sow the seeds approximately 1 foot (30 cm) deep into a mixture of compost and garden soil. Germination usually occurs after approximately 1 month.
Plant in well-drained, moist soil in either partial shade or morning sun. Some varieties can be planted in full sun, but this varies, so be sure to check planting instructions. Compost, peat moss or mulch will retain moisture, control weeds and ensure plants have sufficient nutrients.
Your hole for transplanting asters should be twice as wide and deep as the plant’s container. Plant the crown of the aster even with the ground level. Plant and thin plants to at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart to avoid overcrowding.
Strategies
In addition to accenting rock gardens, grow your Asters in succession, so that have an ongoing blooming season. Planting Asters will also deter some insects in your garden. Plant them throughout your garden to limit pesticide use.
Asters attract butterflies, which will enhance the beauty of your garden.
Unlike marigolds and similar plants, Aster seedlings are unlike the parent plant and may not be desirable to allow to reproduce. Remove the flower stems before they set seed to prevent this cycle from occurring.
Water Asters as directed, but remember that they are considered a “drought tolerant” plant and do not like standing water.
Care for your Asters with some basic rules of thumb, and be rewarded with spectacular blossoms in a variety of colors. Planting these wonderful stars (aster is Greek for star) will uplift and brighten your fall garden. Ranging from 8 inches to almost 8 feet (20 cm to almost 2.4 m), these flowers make good border plants, but be careful of mildew diseases that attack them.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Divide mature plants in spring, just as the new shoots begin to grow. This should be done every few years to avoid crowding of plants.
As with many other flowering plants, dead head (cut back spent flowers) to make room for newer blossoms. This will extend the health and flowering of your plants. Be sure to dead head early on in the blooming season. Blooming will be reduced if done too late. This will also restrain unwanted reseeding which will cause plant overcrowding.
Remember, Asters are prone to mildew so be careful to plant them in areas with good circulation and good sun exposure.
As with other flowering plants, do not allow water to saturate leaves. Be sure to water at the plant’s roots to prevent mildew and mold. Drip irrigation and utilization of a soaker hose work very well in watering these plants.
Propagating
Asters can be grown indoors or may be sown into the garden directly (providing danger of frost is well past). Plant them in early spring, preparing gardens with a tiller to loosen soil. Sow the seeds approximately 1 foot (30 cm) deep into a mixture of compost and garden soil. Germination usually occurs after approximately 1 month.
Plant in well-drained, moist soil in either partial shade or morning sun. Some varieties can be planted in full sun, but this varies, so be sure to check planting instructions. Compost, peat moss or mulch will retain moisture, control weeds and ensure plants have sufficient nutrients.
Your hole for transplanting asters should be twice as wide and deep as the plant’s container. Plant the crown of the aster even with the ground level. Plant and thin plants to at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart to avoid overcrowding.
Strategies
In addition to accenting rock gardens, grow your Asters in succession, so that have an ongoing blooming season. Planting Asters will also deter some insects in your garden. Plant them throughout your garden to limit pesticide use.
Asters attract butterflies, which will enhance the beauty of your garden.
Unlike marigolds and similar plants, Aster seedlings are unlike the parent plant and may not be desirable to allow to reproduce. Remove the flower stems before they set seed to prevent this cycle from occurring.
Water Asters as directed, but remember that they are considered a “drought tolerant” plant and do not like standing water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Spathiphyllum (commonly known as Peace Lilies) is a genus of about 40 species of flowering plants in the family Araceae, native to tropical regions of the Americas and southeastern Asia. They are a popular choice for offices and homes. Peace Lilies are vibrant and lovely, with verdant leaves that grace any indoor space with a touch of life. They’re also on NASA’s list of top air-cleaning plants. The really great news, though, is that peace lilies are easy to care for. With these tips, you can enjoy them for both their aesthetic and function for years to come. 
Light
Peace Lilies like indirect light and shade, making them ideal for indoor environments. They’re even known to do well in offices with fluorescent lights and no windows! South- or west-facing windows tend to be the best locations for Peace Lilies, providing the right mix of light. Your Peace Lily will tell you if it’s getting too much light. Yellow leaves indicate too much light, while brown streaks are a sign of scorching from direct sunlight. Move your Peace Lily if its leaves exhibit these signs.
Watering
Peace Lilies are more tolerant of under-watering than over-watering. Keep plants evenly moist by watering when soil feels dry to the touch. Take care not to over-water. If your tap water has a lot of chlorine, leave it out overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Peace Lily leaves also enjoy a good misting, which you can do when you water throughout the summer.
Watering is another area in which your Peace Lily will communicate with you. If leaves begin to droop, it’s time to water and your plant won’t be any worse for the little bit of wear.
Make sure your Peace Lily’s pot has good drainage. If wilting occurs, check for soggy roots, which indicates root rot.
Fertilizing
While Peace Lilies can do fine with fertilization only once or twice a year, regular fertilization in spring and summer will encourage blooms. Peace Lilies are sensitive to chemical fertilizers, so use an organic general houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength.
Repotting and Propagating
Once roots begin to show above the soil, it’s time to repot your Peace Lily. This usually occurs about every year or two. Repot into a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) bigger in diameter than the current pot.
Repotting is a good time to divide your plant. Crowns, areas where clusters of about two new leaves are growing, are a good place to divide your plant, but some people just separate roots anywhere to multiply their plant. Use soil from the old pot for the new plant so that it isn’t shocked. For smaller transplants, don’t use a pot that’s too big. Cozy roots encourage blooms.
Light
Peace Lilies like indirect light and shade, making them ideal for indoor environments. They’re even known to do well in offices with fluorescent lights and no windows! South- or west-facing windows tend to be the best locations for Peace Lilies, providing the right mix of light. Your Peace Lily will tell you if it’s getting too much light. Yellow leaves indicate too much light, while brown streaks are a sign of scorching from direct sunlight. Move your Peace Lily if its leaves exhibit these signs.
Watering
Peace Lilies are more tolerant of under-watering than over-watering. Keep plants evenly moist by watering when soil feels dry to the touch. Take care not to over-water. If your tap water has a lot of chlorine, leave it out overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Peace Lily leaves also enjoy a good misting, which you can do when you water throughout the summer.
Watering is another area in which your Peace Lily will communicate with you. If leaves begin to droop, it’s time to water and your plant won’t be any worse for the little bit of wear.
Make sure your Peace Lily’s pot has good drainage. If wilting occurs, check for soggy roots, which indicates root rot.
Fertilizing
While Peace Lilies can do fine with fertilization only once or twice a year, regular fertilization in spring and summer will encourage blooms. Peace Lilies are sensitive to chemical fertilizers, so use an organic general houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength.
Repotting and Propagating
Once roots begin to show above the soil, it’s time to repot your Peace Lily. This usually occurs about every year or two. Repot into a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) bigger in diameter than the current pot.
Repotting is a good time to divide your plant. Crowns, areas where clusters of about two new leaves are growing, are a good place to divide your plant, but some people just separate roots anywhere to multiply their plant. Use soil from the old pot for the new plant so that it isn’t shocked. For smaller transplants, don’t use a pot that’s too big. Cozy roots encourage blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Grammatophyllum is a genus of 13 currently known orchid species. The name is derived from the Greek words “gramma” (a line or streak or mark) and “phyllon” (leaf), referring to the parallel leaf veins or the markings of the perianth. This epiphytic genus occurs in dense rainforest from Indo-China, to Indonesia, the Philippines, New Guinea, and the Southwest Pacific islands.
There are two distinct growth forms in this genus. The first has very long pseudobulbs, resembling sugar cane, bearing many leaves, arranged distichous (alternating in two opposite ranks). The second has rather short thick psuedobulbs which are not covered leaf bases and bear a few leaves around the top of the psuedobulbs. The psuedobulbs are sympodial in growth, with each new growth arising from the previous growth. The flowers of most Grammatophyllum species, are generally yellow and brown.
Light
Grammatophyllums grow well in moderate light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. Lime green colored foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching it’s full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. In very mild climates, most members of this can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter.
Temperature
The ideal annual temperature range for most members of the genus Grammatophyllum are 75 to 85 °F (24 to 30 °C) during the day and 55 to 60 °F (13 to 16 °C) at night. Plants will tolerate temperatures to 45 °F (10 °C) and up to 100 °F (38 °C) for short periods. At higher temperatures, air circulation and humidity must be increased or damage can occur.
Water
Grammatophyllums enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a 2 or 3 week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness, before rewatering. In the warmer periods, several waterings a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth.
Fertilizer
Grammatophyllum plants should be fed consistently, when in full growth. During the spring through early fall, fertilizing every 7 days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Grammatophyllum plants happy. In the late fall through winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice.
The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-10-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not.
Whichever formula is selected, we recommend half strength at each application. As with most Orchids, Grammatophyllum roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up. Grammatophyllums are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. The organic fertilizers eliminate concern of salt build up in the medium.
Potting
Grammatophyllum do not resent being disturbed, so repotting should be undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is after all flowering has ceased and new growth is just beginning. To minimize root damage, a warm water soak for 10 minutes, will make most roots very pliable and easier to remove from the container.
While most Grammatophyllums will do well in clay or plastic pots. Some large-growing types such as Grammatophyllum speciosum are best grown in a wire or wooden basket. The strong rapid growing root system often breaks ordinary pots. The baskets allow free air flow over the roots, and eliminate over watering problems.
The potting medium must be well-drained, i.e. coarse fir bark, lava rock, pieces of broken pottery, chunks of tree fern, hardwood charcoal, etc. so that the roots can be wet, but then dry quickly.
When dividing Grammatophyllum plants, always divide into parts with at least four psuedobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth begins. At that time, usually a week or so, repot the divisions in their new pots. Now the plants can be watered and fertilized as usual, without worrying about rotting them, because they retained no roots in the division. Newly repotted plants should be placed in slightly lower light for several weeks.
There are two distinct growth forms in this genus. The first has very long pseudobulbs, resembling sugar cane, bearing many leaves, arranged distichous (alternating in two opposite ranks). The second has rather short thick psuedobulbs which are not covered leaf bases and bear a few leaves around the top of the psuedobulbs. The psuedobulbs are sympodial in growth, with each new growth arising from the previous growth. The flowers of most Grammatophyllum species, are generally yellow and brown.
Light
Grammatophyllums grow well in moderate light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. Lime green colored foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching it’s full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. In very mild climates, most members of this can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter.
Temperature
The ideal annual temperature range for most members of the genus Grammatophyllum are 75 to 85 °F (24 to 30 °C) during the day and 55 to 60 °F (13 to 16 °C) at night. Plants will tolerate temperatures to 45 °F (10 °C) and up to 100 °F (38 °C) for short periods. At higher temperatures, air circulation and humidity must be increased or damage can occur.
Water
Grammatophyllums enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a 2 or 3 week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness, before rewatering. In the warmer periods, several waterings a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth.
Fertilizer
Grammatophyllum plants should be fed consistently, when in full growth. During the spring through early fall, fertilizing every 7 days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Grammatophyllum plants happy. In the late fall through winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice.
The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-10-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not.
Whichever formula is selected, we recommend half strength at each application. As with most Orchids, Grammatophyllum roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up. Grammatophyllums are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. The organic fertilizers eliminate concern of salt build up in the medium.
Potting
Grammatophyllum do not resent being disturbed, so repotting should be undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is after all flowering has ceased and new growth is just beginning. To minimize root damage, a warm water soak for 10 minutes, will make most roots very pliable and easier to remove from the container.
While most Grammatophyllums will do well in clay or plastic pots. Some large-growing types such as Grammatophyllum speciosum are best grown in a wire or wooden basket. The strong rapid growing root system often breaks ordinary pots. The baskets allow free air flow over the roots, and eliminate over watering problems.
The potting medium must be well-drained, i.e. coarse fir bark, lava rock, pieces of broken pottery, chunks of tree fern, hardwood charcoal, etc. so that the roots can be wet, but then dry quickly.
When dividing Grammatophyllum plants, always divide into parts with at least four psuedobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth begins. At that time, usually a week or so, repot the divisions in their new pots. Now the plants can be watered and fertilized as usual, without worrying about rotting them, because they retained no roots in the division. Newly repotted plants should be placed in slightly lower light for several weeks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Calceolaria, commonly known as Pocketbook Plants, Pouch Flowers or Slipper Flowers is a genus of plants in the Calceolariaceae family. This genus consists of about 388 species of shrubs, lianas and herbs, and the geographical range extends from Patagonia to central Mexico, with its distribution center in Andean region.
Calceolaria’s nickname (Pocketbook Plant) is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. Growing Pocketbook Plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
Growing Conditions and General Care
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Pocketbook Plant. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Calceolaria care works best when you try to imitate its native home.
Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants.
Pocketbook Plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again.
Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart. Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
Propagation
Many different types are available as seeds, with gaudy color mixes being the norm. Sow seed in a peat based compost in late summer, and grow the young seedling on through until late autumn. The plants soon develop the rosette of foliage and will need space.
Pocketbook Plants can also be propagated with stem tip cuttings which should be taken in mid to late summer.
Calceolaria’s nickname (Pocketbook Plant) is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. Growing Pocketbook Plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
Growing Conditions and General Care
While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Pocketbook Plant. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Calceolaria care works best when you try to imitate its native home.
Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants.
Pocketbook Plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again.
Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart. Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
Propagation
Many different types are available as seeds, with gaudy color mixes being the norm. Sow seed in a peat based compost in late summer, and grow the young seedling on through until late autumn. The plants soon develop the rosette of foliage and will need space.
Pocketbook Plants can also be propagated with stem tip cuttings which should be taken in mid to late summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Pieris japonica is a species of fantastic evergreen spring shrub which put on a spectacular display of white or pink, bell-shaped flowers and colorful new growth which ranges from pale pink to dark burgundy. It is a member of the Heath family and is originally from the forested mountain regions of China, Japan and Taiwan, and often called Lily of the Valley Bush, Japanese Pieris or Japanese Andromeda. It is a shrubs or small tree which in the wild can reach up to 33 feet (10 m), but the cultivated varieties available from garden centers are more likely to be small and compact or just reaching a height of up to 13 feet (4 m). They are fairly slow growing so even if you buy one of the larger varieties they will probably take up to 20 years to reach their maximum height. They are toxic to people and animals so make sure they are planted in a position where farm stock cannot reach them. They go well with other ericaceous woodland plants such as Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, as they all enjoy the same conditions.
Position
As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.
Planting
Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.
Aftercare
It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.
Containers
Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage. Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.
Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.
Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.
Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.
Position
As they are originally from a forested habitat they do best in dappled shade. Strong sun in early spring can burn the tender new growth. They will not do too well in full shade as they won’t produce as many flowers and the color of the new growth won’t be as intense. They need well-drained but moisture retentive humus-rich acid soil. If you have an alkaline soil you will have to grow it in a pot. You can add ericaceous compost and feed and mulch with pine needles but it will only be temporary and an alkaline soil will always be an alkaline soil. They are a hardy shrub but it may need some protection from late frosts which will burn the new growth and flowers. The frost probably won’t kill the plant but it will mar the spring display which is usually the main reason it is grown.
Planting
Plant them to the same depth as they are in the pot and water well. Keep an eye on the watering in the first season, particularly if there is a long dry spell.
Aftercare
It requires little or no pruning as it grows very slowly, just take out any dead branches. If you have to prune do it immediately after flowering. Take off the spent flowers to encourage the plant to put its energy into producing colorful new growth. Mulching with pine needles or ericaceous compost in spring will conserve moisture and retain the acidity of the soil. Feed with an ericaceous fertiliser, which also feeds Rhododendrons, azaleas and Camellias, in spring. Yellowing of the foliage is an indicator that it is lacking nutrients.
Containers
Choose a container in proportion to the plant and by re-potting every couple of years eventually move up to a pot suitable for the plants requirements. Put a good layer of crocks in the bottom, about 2 inches (5 cm), to aid with drainage. Pot up in ericaceous compost and raise the pot off the ground on pot feet, a couple of bricks or stones. This ensures that the water runs clear away from the pot and doesn’t block the drainage hole with silt. It will be more susceptible to drying out so keep an eye on the watering. A lack of nutrients can also be a problem so make sure you feed in spring.
Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot is a fungus which can be a problem in a wet spring. Spray with a fungicide to control the spread. There is no non-chemical solution.
Phytophthara ramorum is a particularly vicious fungus which attacks the roots and is responsible for Sudden Oak Death. The first sign is a wilting plant which is not dry or sat in saturated soil. There is no control. Dig the plant up and either burn it or put it in the grey refuse bin. Don’t compost it or put it in the green waste bin as this will only spread the disease.
Pieris Lacebug is a winged insect which causes the leaves to be pale and mottled on the upper surface, eventually leading to a bleached appearance later on in summer. The insects can be seen on the underside of the leaf. There is no non-chemical control. Spray with insecticide in early summer. Be careful about spraying other flowering plants as you will also kill bees, pollinators and any other beneficial insects.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
All species of Honeysuckle plant (Lonicera) fall into two categories: 1) arching shrubs and 2) twinning bines, with the large majority being climbing plants that make for attractive Honeysuckle vines. These Honeysuckle vines produce trumpet shaped flowers, honey-like scents, and sweet nectar that attract butterflies, hummingbirds, and even humans who enjoy sampling the nectar.
This type of vine is quite easy to grow when correctly planted and maintained. If you find yourself having trouble getting your Honeysuckle vine to thrive, you may be making some of the following mistakes in caring for your plant.
These mistakes are common, but fortunately, they are also easily remedied.
1. Planting Too Late in the Season
Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them.
When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your Honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches (45 cm) and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches (7.5 cm).
2. Too Little Water at First, Too Much Water Later
This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your Honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months.
The more important goal isn’t to provide the vine with excess moisture, but rather to retain the modest level of moisture that is proper for flourishing. To retain moisture, mulch the base of the plant heavily. A 2-inch (5 cm) layer of dried leaves, pine needles, or shredded bark makes an ideal mulch for the Honeysuckle vine.
3. Incorrect Use of Fertilizer
At the beginning of the growing season, add a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) around the base of the plant. Make sure you choose a controlled release variety. In midsummer, fertilize again with a balanced formula liquid fertilizer to encourage continual flower blooms.
Be especially careful not to fertilize too much. Many growers don’t realize they’ve made this mistake until it’s too late because things will seem just fine at first. Using too much fertilizer will still cause the foliage to thrive, which will give the initial impression of a successful vine, but the excess fertilizer will negatively impact flowering down the line. Keep the soil pH between 6.1 and 7.8.
4. Poor Timing When Pruning
Allow plants to become well established before pruning. Pruning Honeysuckle too early can either reduce the number of blooms the vine produces or kill the whole plant. Honeysuckle vines should be allowed to grow for two years before pruning. Prune lightly during the growing season to encourage new growth. With light pruning, only remove old and bloomed-out flowers.
Older shoots on established plants should be removed during the spring to encourage later flowering. It’s safe to cut the plant back 1/3 for a major pruning. Late February to March are the ideal times to prune most Honeysuckle vines.
5. Mold from Poor Ventilation
Honeysuckle vines are prone to powdery mildews and molds. To reduce the chance of these developing on the vine, make sure there is adequate air movement around your plants. Always plant in open air.
6. Improper Support
Most Honeysuckle vines are grown with support systems, although sometimes they’re grown as ground cover for erosion control. If using support systems, it’s important to use them correctly. The trellis or arbor should be in place before planting. This removes the possibility of damaging the plant when trying to install a trellis on an area where a plant is already established.
Plant the vine 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) away from the support to allow enough room for it to grow. Once the vine starts climbing the support system, tie it to the arbor using a strong, stretchy material, like strips of old nylon hosiery. Cross the material between the stem and the support system to prevent the stems from rubbing together.
This type of vine is quite easy to grow when correctly planted and maintained. If you find yourself having trouble getting your Honeysuckle vine to thrive, you may be making some of the following mistakes in caring for your plant.
These mistakes are common, but fortunately, they are also easily remedied.
1. Planting Too Late in the Season
Honeysuckle vines should be planted during the spring in cooler climates because their roots thrive when cool and shaded. Make sure to wait until the final frost before planting them.
When the timing is finally right, locate a spot for planting where they’ll get full sun, or at the very least, partial sun exposure. Plant your Honeysuckle at a soil depth of 18 inches (45 cm) and lay an organic fertilizer or compost over the top 3 inches (7.5 cm).
2. Too Little Water at First, Too Much Water Later
This type of vine is sensitive to the amount of water and moisture it receives. When you first plant your Honeysuckle, the plant will need a considerable amount of water to help it grow. However, by the time summer arrives your vine will be more fortified and only need small amounts of water, even during dry spells. Many people make the mistake of continuing to water the plant equally throughout these different stages, which is a definite recipe for harmful overwatering in the summer months.
The more important goal isn’t to provide the vine with excess moisture, but rather to retain the modest level of moisture that is proper for flourishing. To retain moisture, mulch the base of the plant heavily. A 2-inch (5 cm) layer of dried leaves, pine needles, or shredded bark makes an ideal mulch for the Honeysuckle vine.
3. Incorrect Use of Fertilizer
At the beginning of the growing season, add a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) around the base of the plant. Make sure you choose a controlled release variety. In midsummer, fertilize again with a balanced formula liquid fertilizer to encourage continual flower blooms.
Be especially careful not to fertilize too much. Many growers don’t realize they’ve made this mistake until it’s too late because things will seem just fine at first. Using too much fertilizer will still cause the foliage to thrive, which will give the initial impression of a successful vine, but the excess fertilizer will negatively impact flowering down the line. Keep the soil pH between 6.1 and 7.8.
4. Poor Timing When Pruning
Allow plants to become well established before pruning. Pruning Honeysuckle too early can either reduce the number of blooms the vine produces or kill the whole plant. Honeysuckle vines should be allowed to grow for two years before pruning. Prune lightly during the growing season to encourage new growth. With light pruning, only remove old and bloomed-out flowers.
Older shoots on established plants should be removed during the spring to encourage later flowering. It’s safe to cut the plant back 1/3 for a major pruning. Late February to March are the ideal times to prune most Honeysuckle vines.
5. Mold from Poor Ventilation
Honeysuckle vines are prone to powdery mildews and molds. To reduce the chance of these developing on the vine, make sure there is adequate air movement around your plants. Always plant in open air.
6. Improper Support
Most Honeysuckle vines are grown with support systems, although sometimes they’re grown as ground cover for erosion control. If using support systems, it’s important to use them correctly. The trellis or arbor should be in place before planting. This removes the possibility of damaging the plant when trying to install a trellis on an area where a plant is already established.
Plant the vine 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) away from the support to allow enough room for it to grow. Once the vine starts climbing the support system, tie it to the arbor using a strong, stretchy material, like strips of old nylon hosiery. Cross the material between the stem and the support system to prevent the stems from rubbing together.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Calla (also known as Water Arum, Bog Arum, Marsh Calla, Wild Calla or Squaw Claw) is a genus of flowering plant in the family Araceae, containing the single species Calla palustris. It is native to cool temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, in central, eastern and northern Europe (France and Norway eastward), northern Asia and northern North America (Alaska, Canada, and northeastern contiguous United States).
The genus formerly also included a number of other species, which have now been transferred to the separate genus Zantedeschia. These plants, from tropical Africa are, however, still often termed “Calla Lilies”, but should not be confused with Calla palustris.
Water Arum is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial with a thick branching rhizome. Leaves are glossy, dark green and heart-shaped. Flowers are small, yellowish green, and produced within white spathe. Fruit is a cluster of bright red berries.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Arum is found in bogs and marshes as it is a plant of shallows, cold water, and wet soils. It can tolerate up to 2 inches (5 cm) of standing water and grows best in full sun. It grows from submerged creeping rhizomes that are horizontal near the surface of the soil. In summer, the growing shoots can be cut off, to encourage branching, and pushed into the soil to propagate. These perennial also frequently vegetatively reproduce by producing offsets through its rhizomes.
It can be grown both in wet soil and in marshy, muddy conditions with still, shallow freshwater. Plants tolerate close to full shade, but may become weak-stemmed and lean. In established ponds with good layer of sediment in bottom can be left to free float.
The rhizome of the Water Arum grows horizontally, running along the surface of the pond and forming roots at nodes. It may suffer from sun burn during high heat periods but will put on a new growth spurt in the cooler autumn days.
A light mulch is necessary in extremely cold, snowless winters. Water Arum will not survive a dry spell.
Propagation
It can be propagated by seed or division of the rhizome.
The genus formerly also included a number of other species, which have now been transferred to the separate genus Zantedeschia. These plants, from tropical Africa are, however, still often termed “Calla Lilies”, but should not be confused with Calla palustris.
Water Arum is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial with a thick branching rhizome. Leaves are glossy, dark green and heart-shaped. Flowers are small, yellowish green, and produced within white spathe. Fruit is a cluster of bright red berries.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Arum is found in bogs and marshes as it is a plant of shallows, cold water, and wet soils. It can tolerate up to 2 inches (5 cm) of standing water and grows best in full sun. It grows from submerged creeping rhizomes that are horizontal near the surface of the soil. In summer, the growing shoots can be cut off, to encourage branching, and pushed into the soil to propagate. These perennial also frequently vegetatively reproduce by producing offsets through its rhizomes.
It can be grown both in wet soil and in marshy, muddy conditions with still, shallow freshwater. Plants tolerate close to full shade, but may become weak-stemmed and lean. In established ponds with good layer of sediment in bottom can be left to free float.
The rhizome of the Water Arum grows horizontally, running along the surface of the pond and forming roots at nodes. It may suffer from sun burn during high heat periods but will put on a new growth spurt in the cooler autumn days.
A light mulch is necessary in extremely cold, snowless winters. Water Arum will not survive a dry spell.
Propagation
It can be propagated by seed or division of the rhizome.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Did you know that you can grow orchids in your garden, in the ground? Most people think of orchids as showy, greenhouse beauties, but those plants represent only one type of orchids. Among the Orchid family, there are over 200 species that flourish in the soil. These plants are classified as terrestrial orchids and grow wild in subtropical and tropical areas of America.
Considered woodland plants, terrestrial orchids share some characteristics with their greenhouse counterparts. These plants come in many shapes and size, produce blossoms in a rainbow of colors, and are famous for filling the night air with wonderful aromas. Unlike their tropical cousins, however, these woodland flowers do not produce aerial roots or stems that climb trees and bushes. They prefer to keep their roots firmly planted in the earth.
Terrestrial orchids don’t need a lot of fertilizer, either. As a matter of fact, most of these ground-loving plants can’t handle a lot of fertilizer. Usually all that’s needed to feed these flowers is leafy compost at planting and later as the plants mature. If your soil is poor in nutrients and you must fertilize, use a very weak solution. Take the food you would normally give flowers and dilute it to one-quarter strength.
One difference between terrestrial orchids and other orchids that often surprises people is their ability to tolerate cold temperatures. Many of these species survive well in freezing temperatures, and some actually require sub-freezing conditions in order to bloom. Like tulips and other bulb plants, these orchids go dormant through the cold weather months and grow and bloom again when spring arrives.
Terrestrial orchids can be categorized into two general groups: individual growers and clumps/tuft growers.
Within the individual growers (also called solitary) there are two distinct growth habits. One group produces both their leaves and their flowers from one stem, which sprouts from an underground tuber or corm. This single stem is leafy and produces an inflorescence at its end. After the blossom is completely open and seeding is complete, these orchids drop their leaves, or become deciduous. The tubers or corms experience an annual dormant period, then continue their life cycle.
The other group of solitary growing terrestrial orchids produces a separate leaf stem and a separate flower stem. Each of these stems sprouts from a distinct bud on the rhizome. An example of this type of growth can be growth can be found in flowers among the Nervilia, Eulophia and Pachystoma genera.
Terrestrial orchids that grow erect are usually evergreen and keep their leaves for a year or more. Leafy pseudobulbs provide new growth, usually from the base, as seen in Phaius, Liparis and Acanthephippium genera.Plants among the genera of Macodes and Zeuxine provide beautiful examples of creeping Terrestrial orchids. The rhizomes of these plants are usually fleshy with long internodes. Axillary buds grow below the apex of the rhizomes and produce upright leaf and flower spikes. After flowering ends, and sometimes after the plant loses its leaves, new growth begins. The original upright spike falls and is absorbed by the rhizome.
Considered woodland plants, terrestrial orchids share some characteristics with their greenhouse counterparts. These plants come in many shapes and size, produce blossoms in a rainbow of colors, and are famous for filling the night air with wonderful aromas. Unlike their tropical cousins, however, these woodland flowers do not produce aerial roots or stems that climb trees and bushes. They prefer to keep their roots firmly planted in the earth.
Terrestrial orchids don’t need a lot of fertilizer, either. As a matter of fact, most of these ground-loving plants can’t handle a lot of fertilizer. Usually all that’s needed to feed these flowers is leafy compost at planting and later as the plants mature. If your soil is poor in nutrients and you must fertilize, use a very weak solution. Take the food you would normally give flowers and dilute it to one-quarter strength.
One difference between terrestrial orchids and other orchids that often surprises people is their ability to tolerate cold temperatures. Many of these species survive well in freezing temperatures, and some actually require sub-freezing conditions in order to bloom. Like tulips and other bulb plants, these orchids go dormant through the cold weather months and grow and bloom again when spring arrives.
Terrestrial orchids can be categorized into two general groups: individual growers and clumps/tuft growers.
Within the individual growers (also called solitary) there are two distinct growth habits. One group produces both their leaves and their flowers from one stem, which sprouts from an underground tuber or corm. This single stem is leafy and produces an inflorescence at its end. After the blossom is completely open and seeding is complete, these orchids drop their leaves, or become deciduous. The tubers or corms experience an annual dormant period, then continue their life cycle.
The other group of solitary growing terrestrial orchids produces a separate leaf stem and a separate flower stem. Each of these stems sprouts from a distinct bud on the rhizome. An example of this type of growth can be growth can be found in flowers among the Nervilia, Eulophia and Pachystoma genera.
Terrestrial orchids that grow erect are usually evergreen and keep their leaves for a year or more. Leafy pseudobulbs provide new growth, usually from the base, as seen in Phaius, Liparis and Acanthephippium genera.Plants among the genera of Macodes and Zeuxine provide beautiful examples of creeping Terrestrial orchids. The rhizomes of these plants are usually fleshy with long internodes. Axillary buds grow below the apex of the rhizomes and produce upright leaf and flower spikes. After flowering ends, and sometimes after the plant loses its leaves, new growth begins. The original upright spike falls and is absorbed by the rhizome.
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