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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Gymnocalycium, commonly called Chin Cactus, is a genus of about 70 South American species of cacti. The genus name Gymnocalycium (from Greek, “naked calyx”) refers to the flower buds bearing no hair or spines.
Their main area of distribution is Argentina, part of Uruguay, Paraguay, southern Bolivia and part of Brazil. Most species are rather small varying from 2 to 6 inches (5 to 15 cm) in size. In cultivation they are popular for their easy flowering habits, and the flowers are generally brightly coloured. Where temperatures fall below 50 °F (10 °C) they must be cultivated under glass with heat.
Gymnocalycium plants in general present no problems in cultivation, and will respond well if potted on regularly every two or three years, to make flowering size plants fairly quickly, some within two years from seed, and will provide some of the finest spination in the Cactaceae family.
Growing Conditions
Light: Some Gymnocalyciums are shade-seeking in the wild, among shrubs or grasses, while others grow completely exposed. Some will therefore need a light shading from the sun in the hottest months, but to overdo this will result in loss of flowers.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while the plants are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Propagation
Those species which produce offsets can be readily propagated by cuttings. Gymnocalycium seed germinates well when fresh, and will keep for a few years if stored in cold conditions.
Grafting
It is not usually necessary to graft Gymnocalyciums, except for chlorophyll-less, or strongly variegated plants, but it may be resorted to in order to grow on seedlings of slow-growing species more quickly or to propagate more easily solitary or cristate plants. Flat grafting seems to be the most commonly used these days, and it really is the easiest to do. The best time for grafting is when both the stock (the bottom part, usually a cereoid cactus) and the scion (the top part, i.e. the Gymnocalycium you are grafting) are actively growing, usually from about April to August.
Pests and Diseases
As much as any other cacti, Gymnocalyciums suffer from the persistent pest, mealybug, in both its forms. Gymnocalyciums, like other cacti will suffer from fungal disorders if overwatered, but often only the root system will collapse, leaving you the job of cutting out any rot in the base of the plant, and dusting with a fungicide powder before rerooting.
Their main area of distribution is Argentina, part of Uruguay, Paraguay, southern Bolivia and part of Brazil. Most species are rather small varying from 2 to 6 inches (5 to 15 cm) in size. In cultivation they are popular for their easy flowering habits, and the flowers are generally brightly coloured. Where temperatures fall below 50 °F (10 °C) they must be cultivated under glass with heat.
Gymnocalycium plants in general present no problems in cultivation, and will respond well if potted on regularly every two or three years, to make flowering size plants fairly quickly, some within two years from seed, and will provide some of the finest spination in the Cactaceae family.
Growing Conditions
Light: Some Gymnocalyciums are shade-seeking in the wild, among shrubs or grasses, while others grow completely exposed. Some will therefore need a light shading from the sun in the hottest months, but to overdo this will result in loss of flowers.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while the plants are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Propagation
Those species which produce offsets can be readily propagated by cuttings. Gymnocalycium seed germinates well when fresh, and will keep for a few years if stored in cold conditions.
Grafting
It is not usually necessary to graft Gymnocalyciums, except for chlorophyll-less, or strongly variegated plants, but it may be resorted to in order to grow on seedlings of slow-growing species more quickly or to propagate more easily solitary or cristate plants. Flat grafting seems to be the most commonly used these days, and it really is the easiest to do. The best time for grafting is when both the stock (the bottom part, usually a cereoid cactus) and the scion (the top part, i.e. the Gymnocalycium you are grafting) are actively growing, usually from about April to August.
Pests and Diseases
As much as any other cacti, Gymnocalyciums suffer from the persistent pest, mealybug, in both its forms. Gymnocalyciums, like other cacti will suffer from fungal disorders if overwatered, but often only the root system will collapse, leaving you the job of cutting out any rot in the base of the plant, and dusting with a fungicide powder before rerooting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Cotyledon is a genus of 10 species of perennial shrubby leaf and stem succulents with numerous varieties and cultivars. Mostly from Southern Africa, they also occur throughout the drier parts of Africa as far north as the Arabian peninsula. Cotyledon has been a catch-all genus including species from Echeveria, Rosularia, Tylecodon and Umbilicus, now all grouped separately. Tölken (1978) separated 47 species of Tylecodon with seasonal, spirally-arranged leaves from Cotyledon with perennial leaves. The name Tylecodon is an angram of Cotyledon.
Members of the genus are shrublets, generally succulent, with fleshily woody, brittle stems and persistent succulent leaves. The leaves are opposite. Leaf pairs generally are oriented at 90 degrees to their preceding and following pairs, as is common in the family Crassulaceae, but the leaf habit differs. They are varied in appearance but all have tubular flowers with curled tips that are typically coloured orange or coral pink. They flower mostly in summer.
Cotyledons generally colonise rocky ground and cliff faces, a clue that they appreciate well-drained conditions in cultivation. The fleshy leaves of some species (C. ladismithiensis) are slightly pubescent or farinose (C. orbiculata). The orange flowers of Adromischus phillipsiae are similar to those of Cotyledon, with which it was once grouped. These plants should be regarded as poisonous as the closely related Tylecodons.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Cotyledons can be divided into two groups. One group consists of evergreen plants with a summer growing period. The other group is made up of deciduous plants, splendidly magnificent with large, solid fleshy stems like C. paniculata. The second group grows during the winter, and sheds its leaves during the summer.
Cotyledons require a free-draining gritty mix and plenty of sun. They are tolerant of cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. Some require pruning to maintain an attractive shape.
Cotyledons should be kept in a sunny position. Follow general succulent watering procedures. Be careful of over-watering when Cotyledons are deciduous.
As succulents go, Cotyledons certainly are rewarding garden and indoor subjects, practically independent of irrigation in all but full desert conditions, though they cannot survive poor light or bad drainage in the wet.
Feed it once or twice during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (poor in nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label.
Though not spectacular, they are elegantly decorative and often interesting in shape. The inflorescences of the larger species often make fine components of dried arrangements in floral design.
Pests and Problems
Their main enemies are sucking bugs.
Members of the genus are shrublets, generally succulent, with fleshily woody, brittle stems and persistent succulent leaves. The leaves are opposite. Leaf pairs generally are oriented at 90 degrees to their preceding and following pairs, as is common in the family Crassulaceae, but the leaf habit differs. They are varied in appearance but all have tubular flowers with curled tips that are typically coloured orange or coral pink. They flower mostly in summer.
Cotyledons generally colonise rocky ground and cliff faces, a clue that they appreciate well-drained conditions in cultivation. The fleshy leaves of some species (C. ladismithiensis) are slightly pubescent or farinose (C. orbiculata). The orange flowers of Adromischus phillipsiae are similar to those of Cotyledon, with which it was once grouped. These plants should be regarded as poisonous as the closely related Tylecodons.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Cotyledons can be divided into two groups. One group consists of evergreen plants with a summer growing period. The other group is made up of deciduous plants, splendidly magnificent with large, solid fleshy stems like C. paniculata. The second group grows during the winter, and sheds its leaves during the summer.
Cotyledons require a free-draining gritty mix and plenty of sun. They are tolerant of cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. Some require pruning to maintain an attractive shape.
Cotyledons should be kept in a sunny position. Follow general succulent watering procedures. Be careful of over-watering when Cotyledons are deciduous.
As succulents go, Cotyledons certainly are rewarding garden and indoor subjects, practically independent of irrigation in all but full desert conditions, though they cannot survive poor light or bad drainage in the wet.
Feed it once or twice during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (poor in nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label.
Though not spectacular, they are elegantly decorative and often interesting in shape. The inflorescences of the larger species often make fine components of dried arrangements in floral design.
Pests and Problems
Their main enemies are sucking bugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Though the term “cereus” once referred to any columnar species of cactus with an elongated body, today Cereus is a more specific genus of about fifty species and many of the cacti that were once considered Cereus cacti are now in other genera. Today, Cereus cacti are distinguished by their columnar growth habit, with ribs that spines protrude from. Since the genus was formed by removing other species from it, it includes some diversity – many species are classified as Cereus simply because they were not given any other genus.
This leads to some cacti being included that don’t fit the typical Cereus profile, like the thin C. albicaulis and C. insularis. Nonetheless, there is a basic template that most – but not all – Cereus cacti fit: they’re large, tree-like cacti with defined ribs and aureoles that require slightly richer, more moist soil than a typical cactus. Atypically for cacti, Cereus should not experience drought during their growing season in the summer, although they can tolerate lower water supply in winter. They produce long, fleshy, edible fruits that are generally red. These cacti are good for a succulent or rock garden where they have room to grow because they can be fairly large; for instance, the Hedge Cactus, or C. peruvianus (C. repandus), grows to about ten feet tall and its monstrose form is popular for its idiosyncratic, divided ribs. Most of these cacti are too large to grow inside, but younger specimens can be kept inside until they mature, and most plants in the genus are slow-growing. If you do keep Cereus inside in containers before moving them outside, be careful of their sharp spines when moving them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer.
Water: Cereus plants need slightly more water than most other cacti, and their soil should usually be kept moist during the growing season.
Temperature: Though hot temperatures are best, most of these are hardy plants that can tolerate down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7 degrees Celsius).
Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Cereus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material. Some recommend avoiding a soil that contains sphagnum moss, though – it can make the cactus vulnerable to root rot.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized during their growing season in the summer with a good cactus fertilizer.
Propagation
Cereus cacti propagate quite easily from cuttings; simply sever a branch and replant in moist, well-drained soil. It helps to allow the cut end dry out and harden before you replant it; this makes it easier for the new cactus to form roots.
Repotting
It may become necessary to repot your Cereus if it outgrows its container. If so, make sure the soil is dry and then remove the pot. Knock away old soil and prune away any rotted or dead roots, then replace it in a new pot and backfill with new soil. Make sure not to overwater cacti planted in new pots, as this can lead to root rot – it should be left dry for about a week and then watered lightly.
Grower’s Tips
Like most cacti, Cereus are fairly low-maintenance and hardy. Make sure they receive enough water without becoming waterlogged, especially during the summer, and fertilize them for best results. If the roots have become black or overly soft, the cactus could be experiencing root rot – cut away the affected parts and replant. Most gardeners interested in cacti should be able to cultivate these without much problem.
This leads to some cacti being included that don’t fit the typical Cereus profile, like the thin C. albicaulis and C. insularis. Nonetheless, there is a basic template that most – but not all – Cereus cacti fit: they’re large, tree-like cacti with defined ribs and aureoles that require slightly richer, more moist soil than a typical cactus. Atypically for cacti, Cereus should not experience drought during their growing season in the summer, although they can tolerate lower water supply in winter. They produce long, fleshy, edible fruits that are generally red. These cacti are good for a succulent or rock garden where they have room to grow because they can be fairly large; for instance, the Hedge Cactus, or C. peruvianus (C. repandus), grows to about ten feet tall and its monstrose form is popular for its idiosyncratic, divided ribs. Most of these cacti are too large to grow inside, but younger specimens can be kept inside until they mature, and most plants in the genus are slow-growing. If you do keep Cereus inside in containers before moving them outside, be careful of their sharp spines when moving them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer.
Water: Cereus plants need slightly more water than most other cacti, and their soil should usually be kept moist during the growing season.
Temperature: Though hot temperatures are best, most of these are hardy plants that can tolerate down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7 degrees Celsius).
Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Cereus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material. Some recommend avoiding a soil that contains sphagnum moss, though – it can make the cactus vulnerable to root rot.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized during their growing season in the summer with a good cactus fertilizer.
Propagation
Cereus cacti propagate quite easily from cuttings; simply sever a branch and replant in moist, well-drained soil. It helps to allow the cut end dry out and harden before you replant it; this makes it easier for the new cactus to form roots.
Repotting
It may become necessary to repot your Cereus if it outgrows its container. If so, make sure the soil is dry and then remove the pot. Knock away old soil and prune away any rotted or dead roots, then replace it in a new pot and backfill with new soil. Make sure not to overwater cacti planted in new pots, as this can lead to root rot – it should be left dry for about a week and then watered lightly.
Grower’s Tips
Like most cacti, Cereus are fairly low-maintenance and hardy. Make sure they receive enough water without becoming waterlogged, especially during the summer, and fertilize them for best results. If the roots have become black or overly soft, the cactus could be experiencing root rot – cut away the affected parts and replant. Most gardeners interested in cacti should be able to cultivate these without much problem.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Edithcolea is a monotypic genus with a single species Edithcolea grandis, also known as Persian Carpet Flower. The genus is named after Miss Edith Cole (1859-1940). She collected the type material for this plant together with Mrs. Lort Philips in 1895, during a botanical expedition (1894-1895) led by Mr. Ethelbert Edward Lort Phillips (1857-1944) from Berbera to the Golis mountains in northern Somalia.
Persian Carpet Flower is a succulent plant with remarkable flower, at times described as the Persian carpet flower. The carrion-like smell of the flowers attracts flies and other insects for pollination.
Edithcolea grandis is occasionally cultivated as an ornamental in desert gardens worldwide. It has a gained a reputation as a particularly difficult plant to keep because of its very specific growing needs with much light and relatively high (above 60 °F / 15 °C) winter temperatures. It’s very susceptible to rot in combination with low temperatures.
The stem of Persian Carpet Flower is eaten as a vegetable in Ethiopia and Somalia.
Growing Conditions
Light: Partial sun or light shade.
Water: It require moderately watering through the growing season but enjoy plenty of water and some fertilizer in hot weather and allow them to dry before watering again. This helps them to flower freely. Water sparingly in winter according to temperatures. But, as with most asclepiads, it is unwise to leave them wet in cold weather.
Temperature: Winter care presents no problems at 60 °F (15° C) with plenty of light.
Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a succulent mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering.
Propagation
Easiest with stem cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry a day before planting. Stems must be laid (not buried) on gritty compost and will then root from the underside of the stems. It can also be increased from seeds sowing in spring in moist, sandy peat moss.
Repotting
Re-pot every 2 years.
Pests and diseases
They are very susceptible to stem and root mealy bugs, and damage from these may well initiate fungal attack. If you do have problems with a stem or with basal rotting, you can reliably isolate the healthy parts, dry them off, and re-root them in moist compost.
Persian Carpet Flower is a succulent plant with remarkable flower, at times described as the Persian carpet flower. The carrion-like smell of the flowers attracts flies and other insects for pollination.
Edithcolea grandis is occasionally cultivated as an ornamental in desert gardens worldwide. It has a gained a reputation as a particularly difficult plant to keep because of its very specific growing needs with much light and relatively high (above 60 °F / 15 °C) winter temperatures. It’s very susceptible to rot in combination with low temperatures.
The stem of Persian Carpet Flower is eaten as a vegetable in Ethiopia and Somalia.
Growing Conditions
Light: Partial sun or light shade.
Water: It require moderately watering through the growing season but enjoy plenty of water and some fertilizer in hot weather and allow them to dry before watering again. This helps them to flower freely. Water sparingly in winter according to temperatures. But, as with most asclepiads, it is unwise to leave them wet in cold weather.
Temperature: Winter care presents no problems at 60 °F (15° C) with plenty of light.
Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a succulent mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering.
Propagation
Easiest with stem cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry a day before planting. Stems must be laid (not buried) on gritty compost and will then root from the underside of the stems. It can also be increased from seeds sowing in spring in moist, sandy peat moss.
Repotting
Re-pot every 2 years.
Pests and diseases
They are very susceptible to stem and root mealy bugs, and damage from these may well initiate fungal attack. If you do have problems with a stem or with basal rotting, you can reliably isolate the healthy parts, dry them off, and re-root them in moist compost.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Adromischus is a genus of at least 28 species of small clumping leaf succulents from South Africa. Prior to revision of the genus by Tölken a larger number of species were recognised. Many of these older names are currently regarded as synonymous with a range of forms combined into a smaller number of somewhat variable species. Adromischus marianae is particularly variable across its range, reflecting combination of plants with markedly different appearance into a single species. Some natural hybrids are known.
The attractively marked and coloured leaves of many species appeal to collectors but require high light levels for the different colours to be seen to full advantage. In shade most species adopt a similar green colour. As the plants age, some elongate losing leaves lower down their thickened stems. Opinions vary as to the merits of mature plants compared with smaller ones.
Adromischus flowers are generally small, with a greenish-white tube and pink or reddish corolla and produce sufficient nectar to start a fungal infection, especially towards the end of the growing season. As the flowers are not showy, many growers cut off the developing flower stems to avoid botrytis. The only species worth growing for its flowers is Adromischus phillipsiae, which has relatively large showy orange tubular flowers, reminiscent of flowers of Cotyledons to which Adromischus is closely related and with which it was once grouped.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Many species are easy to grow in any free-draining gritty compost. Their compact habit allows a collection to be maintained in a small space and they grow well on any sunny window ledge or the top shelf of the greenhouse. Water mostly in spring/autumn and let them dry out between waterings. Adromischus tolerate cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. It is as well to keep water off the foliage during the winter. Mealy bugs and vine weevils can be discouraged with a systemic insecticide. Frost hardy to 19 °F (-7 °C).
Propagation
Many species can be propagated from a single leaf, which should be placed against the side of the pot so that the stem end is just touching the compost. Some species drop their leaves easily and although each leaf will form a new plant it can be a challenge to grow a large specimen. In other cases, leaves for propagation must be carefully detached with a sharp knife. Adromischus phillipsiae is easier to propagate from stem cuttings than from individual leaves.
The attractively marked and coloured leaves of many species appeal to collectors but require high light levels for the different colours to be seen to full advantage. In shade most species adopt a similar green colour. As the plants age, some elongate losing leaves lower down their thickened stems. Opinions vary as to the merits of mature plants compared with smaller ones.
Adromischus flowers are generally small, with a greenish-white tube and pink or reddish corolla and produce sufficient nectar to start a fungal infection, especially towards the end of the growing season. As the flowers are not showy, many growers cut off the developing flower stems to avoid botrytis. The only species worth growing for its flowers is Adromischus phillipsiae, which has relatively large showy orange tubular flowers, reminiscent of flowers of Cotyledons to which Adromischus is closely related and with which it was once grouped.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Many species are easy to grow in any free-draining gritty compost. Their compact habit allows a collection to be maintained in a small space and they grow well on any sunny window ledge or the top shelf of the greenhouse. Water mostly in spring/autumn and let them dry out between waterings. Adromischus tolerate cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. It is as well to keep water off the foliage during the winter. Mealy bugs and vine weevils can be discouraged with a systemic insecticide. Frost hardy to 19 °F (-7 °C).
Propagation
Many species can be propagated from a single leaf, which should be placed against the side of the pot so that the stem end is just touching the compost. Some species drop their leaves easily and although each leaf will form a new plant it can be a challenge to grow a large specimen. In other cases, leaves for propagation must be carefully detached with a sharp knife. Adromischus phillipsiae is easier to propagate from stem cuttings than from individual leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Faucaria is a genus of succulent subtropical plants of the family Aizoaceae. The species are collectively known as “Tiger Jaws”. This refers to the spiny looking edges of the leaves. The name comes from the Latin word “fauces” (= animal mouth) because of the appearance of leaves.
The genus Faucaria was subjected to an extensive revision by Groen & Van Der Maesen in 1999. The 30 or so recognized species were reduced to only 6. The very variable Faucaria felina absorbing most of the species. This somewhat solve the issue of the numerous nursery plants sold as Faucaria spp.: The very large majority of them are just Faucaria felina.
Faucarias form clumps of stemless rosettes. They are small plants, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter, thick triangular or semi-circular leaves, light green in color, turning purple in the event of strong sunshine.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The various species make excellent pot subjects and have been cultivated in Europe for over three hundred years. Some species, such as Faucaria tigrina, are quite hardy, while others can be prone to stem rot.
Faucarias are mostly spring and fall growers. They need good drainage but with a little shade they will do just fine even with extreme heat, although they do stop growing then, and they need water every few days. When they lack water, as many other mesembs, the stems die and some of the rosettes are not connected to the roots by any living tissue. When found in time, the rosettes can be used as cuttings and keep in the shade in a barely moist medium until the temperature cools down in the fall.
They bloom for several months in in fall or the beginning of winter. The flowers open around midday and close in the late afternoon. They often don’t open if the weather is cloudy, or if they are in the shade. Flower color ranges from yellow to white and even pink.
Most species will take a small amount of frost.
Porpagation
Faucarias are easily propagated by seed.
The genus Faucaria was subjected to an extensive revision by Groen & Van Der Maesen in 1999. The 30 or so recognized species were reduced to only 6. The very variable Faucaria felina absorbing most of the species. This somewhat solve the issue of the numerous nursery plants sold as Faucaria spp.: The very large majority of them are just Faucaria felina.
Faucarias form clumps of stemless rosettes. They are small plants, up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter, thick triangular or semi-circular leaves, light green in color, turning purple in the event of strong sunshine.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The various species make excellent pot subjects and have been cultivated in Europe for over three hundred years. Some species, such as Faucaria tigrina, are quite hardy, while others can be prone to stem rot.
Faucarias are mostly spring and fall growers. They need good drainage but with a little shade they will do just fine even with extreme heat, although they do stop growing then, and they need water every few days. When they lack water, as many other mesembs, the stems die and some of the rosettes are not connected to the roots by any living tissue. When found in time, the rosettes can be used as cuttings and keep in the shade in a barely moist medium until the temperature cools down in the fall.
They bloom for several months in in fall or the beginning of winter. The flowers open around midday and close in the late afternoon. They often don’t open if the weather is cloudy, or if they are in the shade. Flower color ranges from yellow to white and even pink.
Most species will take a small amount of frost.
Porpagation
Faucarias are easily propagated by seed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Alluaudia is a genus of flowering plants in the family Didiereaceae. There are six species, all endemic to Madagascar. Most occur in the southwestern subarid forest-thicket vegetation of the island.
Several of the species are grown as indoor ornamental plants in specialist succulent collections. Spines are arranged around the leaves as a defense against herbivores. The development of these plants is columnar, they grow aiming high with a scarce lateral development. This plants in the autumn assumes a green colouring.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Alluaudias are succulent plants and need full sun or high interior lighting with a very well drained soil mix and freely circulating air. Plants are watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. If fertilizer is used, it should be diluted to ¼ the recommended rate on the label. Alluaudias must be protected in the greenhouse over the winter but established plants should tolerate temperatures as low as 32° F (0° C). During the winter months, the plants will drop all of its leaves and no water should be given during this period. If planted in the landscape however, it will often drop all its leaves when it decides to take a rest. When this happens, cut down on the watering until the leaves start to appear again.
Propagation
Alluaudias are propagated from cuttings taken in the spring or from seed when available.
Several of the species are grown as indoor ornamental plants in specialist succulent collections. Spines are arranged around the leaves as a defense against herbivores. The development of these plants is columnar, they grow aiming high with a scarce lateral development. This plants in the autumn assumes a green colouring.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Alluaudias are succulent plants and need full sun or high interior lighting with a very well drained soil mix and freely circulating air. Plants are watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. If fertilizer is used, it should be diluted to ¼ the recommended rate on the label. Alluaudias must be protected in the greenhouse over the winter but established plants should tolerate temperatures as low as 32° F (0° C). During the winter months, the plants will drop all of its leaves and no water should be given during this period. If planted in the landscape however, it will often drop all its leaves when it decides to take a rest. When this happens, cut down on the watering until the leaves start to appear again.
Propagation
Alluaudias are propagated from cuttings taken in the spring or from seed when available.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aloinopsis is a genus of ice plants. They occurs mostly in the Eastern and Western Cape Provinces of South Africa, extending slightly into the southern part of the Northern Cape Province. One species is found in the northeastern corner of the Northern Cape Province. Rainfall is sparse throughout the range. Many species have rough-surfaced, spoon-shaped leaves that grow in small rosettes. The roots are thick and the flowers are often striped with red. Aloinopsis are sometimes confused with Titanopsis, but the genus Titanopsis lack striped flowers.
Aloinopsis are popular among collectors. They are winter growers and need plenty of light. Most are somewhat to extremely cold hardy and bloom in the winter. The flowers are mostly yellow to pink, fragrant, and open in the afternoon, closing after dark.
Growing Conditions
Light: A sunny position brings out the best colors. It should be protected from too much exposure in summer.
Water: Remember not to over-water in the summer when they’re taking their rest. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot.
Temperature: Aloinopsis will survive mild frost if kept dry. They can tolerate down to about 23 degrees Fahrenheit (-5 degrees Celsius).
Soil: They prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Propagation
Aloinopsis are propagated by seed or division.
Pests and Problems
Unfortunately, they are prone to red spider mites, and root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Aloinopsis can be cultivated in the ground or in a container. They will grow in the cooler parts of the year, and flower in winter if it gets good light (direct sunlight is essential to bloom well). Aloinopsis is probably dormant in summer, so it is usually recommended not to water much in summer. Don’t be surprised if they doesn’t grow at that time, but although Aloinopsis are better treated as winter growers they will grow anyway in summer, if given water.
Aloinopsis are popular among collectors. They are winter growers and need plenty of light. Most are somewhat to extremely cold hardy and bloom in the winter. The flowers are mostly yellow to pink, fragrant, and open in the afternoon, closing after dark.
Growing Conditions
Light: A sunny position brings out the best colors. It should be protected from too much exposure in summer.
Water: Remember not to over-water in the summer when they’re taking their rest. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot.
Temperature: Aloinopsis will survive mild frost if kept dry. They can tolerate down to about 23 degrees Fahrenheit (-5 degrees Celsius).
Soil: They prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Propagation
Aloinopsis are propagated by seed or division.
Pests and Problems
Unfortunately, they are prone to red spider mites, and root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Aloinopsis can be cultivated in the ground or in a container. They will grow in the cooler parts of the year, and flower in winter if it gets good light (direct sunlight is essential to bloom well). Aloinopsis is probably dormant in summer, so it is usually recommended not to water much in summer. Don’t be surprised if they doesn’t grow at that time, but although Aloinopsis are better treated as winter growers they will grow anyway in summer, if given water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Epiphyllum (Orchid Cacti) are often grown as houseplants as they are relatively trouble-free. They produce large, showy flowers, which are usually sweetly-scented and last two days or more. Some species such as Epiphyllum oxypetalum are nocturnal – with their flowers opening during the night. Epiphyllum cacti are mostly epiphytic (they grow on other plants, but only use them as a support). They are often grown in hanging baskets to accommodate their long, pendent, leaf-like stems, but can be grown in containers.
Growing Conditions
Epiphyllum are hardy to about 50°F (10°C), but require at least 60°F (15°C) during the growing season, so are best grown in a heated greenhouse, conservatory or indoors.
Place the pots in bright, filtered light, with moderate to high humidity. To increase the humidity, position the pot on a tray filled with gravel and keep this topped up with water, but not enough so that the water reaches the surface.
Epiphyllum cacti require sharply-drained growing media. Grow them in a standard cactus compost with added grit or perlite. Alternatively, mix three parts loam-based compost, with two parts grit or perlite and one part peat-free multipurpose compost.
Pruning and Training
Overlong stems can be cut off or shortened. New shoots will usually develop just behind the cut. However, be careful not to overwater after pruning as the plant’s water requirements will be reduced.
Large Epiphyllum can become unstable in their pots. Either repot in to a heavier pot, such as terracotta, or a wider container, such as a pan. Alternatively, try using canes and tying the stems up, but this can look unsightly.
Propagation
The two most successful methods of propagation are by seed and cuttings.
Sowing seed:
Sow seed in spring or summer;
Fill a container with cactus compost and scatter the seed evenly on the surface;
Moisten the compost lightly with a fine mist sprayer;
Top-dress with a thin layer of fine grit;
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place into a propagator and keep at 70°F (21°C);
Remove the covering once the seeds have germinated;
Keep the compost moist, but not wet;
Prick out when the seedlings become crowded and large enough to handle comfortably;
They will take four to seven years to flower.
Cuttings: Take stem cuttings in spring to late summer.
Cut the leaf-like stem into 15-22.5cm (6-9in) sections and let it callus (dry) for several days in a warm place;
Fill a pot one third full with cactus compost and cover with a layer of grit. Insert the cuttings 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep;
Keep the compost just moist and maintain temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C);
They should root in three to six weeks and flower the following year, if taken early in the season.
Pests and Problems
Epiphyllum cacti are prone to several common houseplant and greenhouse problems: mealybugs, aphids and glasshouse red spider mite.
Grower’s Tips
From mid-spring until late summer, water the plants when the compost begins to dry out, but do not let the plants stand in water. Apply cactus fertiliser fortnightly. To encourage blooming, move Epiphyllum in winter into a cooler place, about 52-57°F (11-14°C) and keep the compost just moist until the flower buds form. Once this has happened, increase the temperature and resume the normal watering regime.
Growing Conditions
Epiphyllum are hardy to about 50°F (10°C), but require at least 60°F (15°C) during the growing season, so are best grown in a heated greenhouse, conservatory or indoors.
Place the pots in bright, filtered light, with moderate to high humidity. To increase the humidity, position the pot on a tray filled with gravel and keep this topped up with water, but not enough so that the water reaches the surface.
Epiphyllum cacti require sharply-drained growing media. Grow them in a standard cactus compost with added grit or perlite. Alternatively, mix three parts loam-based compost, with two parts grit or perlite and one part peat-free multipurpose compost.
Pruning and Training
Overlong stems can be cut off or shortened. New shoots will usually develop just behind the cut. However, be careful not to overwater after pruning as the plant’s water requirements will be reduced.
Large Epiphyllum can become unstable in their pots. Either repot in to a heavier pot, such as terracotta, or a wider container, such as a pan. Alternatively, try using canes and tying the stems up, but this can look unsightly.
Propagation
The two most successful methods of propagation are by seed and cuttings.
Sowing seed:
Sow seed in spring or summer;
Fill a container with cactus compost and scatter the seed evenly on the surface;
Moisten the compost lightly with a fine mist sprayer;
Top-dress with a thin layer of fine grit;
Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place into a propagator and keep at 70°F (21°C);
Remove the covering once the seeds have germinated;
Keep the compost moist, but not wet;
Prick out when the seedlings become crowded and large enough to handle comfortably;
They will take four to seven years to flower.
Cuttings: Take stem cuttings in spring to late summer.
Cut the leaf-like stem into 15-22.5cm (6-9in) sections and let it callus (dry) for several days in a warm place;
Fill a pot one third full with cactus compost and cover with a layer of grit. Insert the cuttings 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) deep;
Keep the compost just moist and maintain temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C);
They should root in three to six weeks and flower the following year, if taken early in the season.
Pests and Problems
Epiphyllum cacti are prone to several common houseplant and greenhouse problems: mealybugs, aphids and glasshouse red spider mite.
Grower’s Tips
From mid-spring until late summer, water the plants when the compost begins to dry out, but do not let the plants stand in water. Apply cactus fertiliser fortnightly. To encourage blooming, move Epiphyllum in winter into a cooler place, about 52-57°F (11-14°C) and keep the compost just moist until the flower buds form. Once this has happened, increase the temperature and resume the normal watering regime.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Disocactus is a genus of epiphytic cacti in the tribe Hylocereeae found in Central America, the Caribbean and northern South America. It should not be confused with Discocactus, which is a different genus.
Species of Disocactus grow in tropical regions either on trees as epiphytes or on rocks as lithophytes. They have two distinct growth habits. Species such as D. phyllanthoides have stems which are round at the base but then become flattened and leaf-like. Other species, such as D. flagelliformis have stems which are round throughout their length.
Many of the cultivated plants known as Epiphyllum hybrids or just Epiphyllums are derived from crosses between species of Disocactus (rather than Epiphyllum) and other genera in the Hylocereeae.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer.
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering; from October to March and waterings should be rather abundant, so that the soil becomes completely soaked, but let dry between watering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C.
Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Disocactus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material.
Propagation
Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Grower’s Tips
Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
Species of Disocactus grow in tropical regions either on trees as epiphytes or on rocks as lithophytes. They have two distinct growth habits. Species such as D. phyllanthoides have stems which are round at the base but then become flattened and leaf-like. Other species, such as D. flagelliformis have stems which are round throughout their length.
Many of the cultivated plants known as Epiphyllum hybrids or just Epiphyllums are derived from crosses between species of Disocactus (rather than Epiphyllum) and other genera in the Hylocereeae.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer.
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering; from October to March and waterings should be rather abundant, so that the soil becomes completely soaked, but let dry between watering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C.
Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Disocactus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material.
Propagation
Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Grower’s Tips
Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Portulaca is a genus of the flowering plant family Portulacaceae, comprising about 40-100 species found in the tropics and warm temperate regions. They are also known as Purslane, Sun Plant, Rose Moss and Wax Pink. Common Purslane (P. oleracea) is widely considered an edible plant, and in some areas an invasive type of weed. Purslane can be eaten raw or cooked, and lends itself to stir fry dishes.
Members of the Portulaca genus are relatively easy to grow hardy or half hardy annuals that reach from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) in height. They carry succulent leaves and bloom from summer to the second half of autumn and carry cup shaped flowers; these may be of yellow, red, pink or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sunlight
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering, but let dry between watering. Portulaca does not like wet conditions and will rot in constantly wet soil.
Soil: Well-drained soil is the best.
Fertilizer: An application of a balanced slow release fertilize with minor elements every 6 months.
General Care
Portulaca plants tolerate many kinds of soil but prefer sandy, well-drained soil and love the full sunlight. These plants are excellent for high heat and drought tolerance, and will seed and spread themselves very well. Some control methods may be needed to keep Portulaca plants from becoming invasive to areas where they are not wanted. These wonderful plants do spread easily and very well. Portulaca species such as Purslane require no attention at all when growing and flowering; however you should remove them from the garden before Portulaca have chance to set seed as they may take over the garden. You do not need to water often for proper Portulaca care. The cylindrical foliage of the Portulaca plants retains moisture very well, thus, regular watering is not needed. When they are watered, just a light watering will do, as their root zone is very shallow.
The seeds of Purslane and other Portulaca members should be sown on the soil surface following the last frost of spring. Ideally Purslane should be grown in a sunny part of the garden and Portulaca genus members thrive in hot areas. The soil that Purslane grows in should be sandy and poor with a pH of 5.5 to 7.
If starting Purslane indoors then start about one and a half months in advance. You first need to imbibe Purslane seeds by placing within soil in a plastic bag and placing in the fridge for about 15 days. Once finished, place the soil /seeds in light and germinate at 70 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius). It typically takes about one to three weeks for Purslane seeds to germinate. Once ready transfer into the garden at from 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart (depending on the size of the Portulaca species). This should be done towards the end of spring.
Members of the Portulaca genus are relatively easy to grow hardy or half hardy annuals that reach from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) in height. They carry succulent leaves and bloom from summer to the second half of autumn and carry cup shaped flowers; these may be of yellow, red, pink or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sunlight
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering, but let dry between watering. Portulaca does not like wet conditions and will rot in constantly wet soil.
Soil: Well-drained soil is the best.
Fertilizer: An application of a balanced slow release fertilize with minor elements every 6 months.
General Care
Portulaca plants tolerate many kinds of soil but prefer sandy, well-drained soil and love the full sunlight. These plants are excellent for high heat and drought tolerance, and will seed and spread themselves very well. Some control methods may be needed to keep Portulaca plants from becoming invasive to areas where they are not wanted. These wonderful plants do spread easily and very well. Portulaca species such as Purslane require no attention at all when growing and flowering; however you should remove them from the garden before Portulaca have chance to set seed as they may take over the garden. You do not need to water often for proper Portulaca care. The cylindrical foliage of the Portulaca plants retains moisture very well, thus, regular watering is not needed. When they are watered, just a light watering will do, as their root zone is very shallow.
The seeds of Purslane and other Portulaca members should be sown on the soil surface following the last frost of spring. Ideally Purslane should be grown in a sunny part of the garden and Portulaca genus members thrive in hot areas. The soil that Purslane grows in should be sandy and poor with a pH of 5.5 to 7.
If starting Purslane indoors then start about one and a half months in advance. You first need to imbibe Purslane seeds by placing within soil in a plastic bag and placing in the fridge for about 15 days. Once finished, place the soil /seeds in light and germinate at 70 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 30 degrees Celsius). It typically takes about one to three weeks for Purslane seeds to germinate. Once ready transfer into the garden at from 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart (depending on the size of the Portulaca species). This should be done towards the end of spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Conophytum are a group of miniature succulents prized by enthusiasts for their wide variety of forms, textures, and colors. Typically, they form clusters or grow in mats but some species are solitary. Bodies can be conical, oblong, or cylindrical, spotted or lined, velvety, warty, or windowed, and range in color from various shades of green and blue-green to brown and red. Some species are mistaken for Lithops. Anatomically, they are distinguished by conically united leaves and by their petals, which are fused into a basal tube, unlike most mesembs. Most conos flower in the autumn and display a rainbow range of colors. They can be divided into night-blooming, twilight-blooming, and day-blooming species. The flowers of some species are also scented.
Growing Conditions
Light: The Conophytum require a very bright environment and even a few hours of full sun, in cooler moments of the day to avoid sunburn. At the end of the dormant season the plants must gradually accustomed to the increase of brightness.
Water: After they bloom in October/November mist every other week. When active growth resumes in late spring water about once per week until summer. Plants may go dormant in heat, water no more than every three weeks. During active growth, if leaves start to retract into soil or wrinkle, it needs watering.
Soil: The types of soil suitable to this genus are various and different for each species because of the great diversity of different specimens; the common feature is, however, the high drainage capacity and good porosity.
Fertilizer: Light feeders, may not need fertilizer for three years after potting or at all if you repot every two years. Fertilize at the beginning of the growth period and just before flowering.
General Care
Conophytums are usually grown in dish gardens where they spread slowly but make good ornamental plants for window gardening. They also do well in rockeries where they can be grown in crevices.
The Conophytum vegetate during the winter season. They must then be kept dry during hot, gradually wet upon autumn arrival: the moisture stimulate the release of new root hairs and the plant will grow for the entire winter season, foliar issuing new pairs from inside the existing ones. Flowering usually occurs in autumn and the color of the flowers is extremely variable from species to species. The cultivation is quite easy, but care must be taken to avoid excess water and to prevent rot: the plants themselves communicate their water needings with a slight wrinkling of the epidermis. They do not particularly fear the cold weather and can resist also at temperatures of 23°F (-5°C), as long as the soil is completely dry and the temperature returns rapidly to rise.
Propagation
Propagation can be made from seed or by cuttings: seed germination is quite easy (see the germination rate of our seeds), but the young seedlings are very sensitive to humidity and need a special and constant care and constant to raise them correctly.
Growing Conditions
Light: The Conophytum require a very bright environment and even a few hours of full sun, in cooler moments of the day to avoid sunburn. At the end of the dormant season the plants must gradually accustomed to the increase of brightness.
Water: After they bloom in October/November mist every other week. When active growth resumes in late spring water about once per week until summer. Plants may go dormant in heat, water no more than every three weeks. During active growth, if leaves start to retract into soil or wrinkle, it needs watering.
Soil: The types of soil suitable to this genus are various and different for each species because of the great diversity of different specimens; the common feature is, however, the high drainage capacity and good porosity.
Fertilizer: Light feeders, may not need fertilizer for three years after potting or at all if you repot every two years. Fertilize at the beginning of the growth period and just before flowering.
General Care
Conophytums are usually grown in dish gardens where they spread slowly but make good ornamental plants for window gardening. They also do well in rockeries where they can be grown in crevices.
The Conophytum vegetate during the winter season. They must then be kept dry during hot, gradually wet upon autumn arrival: the moisture stimulate the release of new root hairs and the plant will grow for the entire winter season, foliar issuing new pairs from inside the existing ones. Flowering usually occurs in autumn and the color of the flowers is extremely variable from species to species. The cultivation is quite easy, but care must be taken to avoid excess water and to prevent rot: the plants themselves communicate their water needings with a slight wrinkling of the epidermis. They do not particularly fear the cold weather and can resist also at temperatures of 23°F (-5°C), as long as the soil is completely dry and the temperature returns rapidly to rise.
Propagation
Propagation can be made from seed or by cuttings: seed germination is quite easy (see the germination rate of our seeds), but the young seedlings are very sensitive to humidity and need a special and constant care and constant to raise them correctly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Escobaria belongs to the family of Cactaceae, includes about 25 species and is native to the desert areas of the Atlantic and the North American continent (Canada and the southeastern United States, Mexico). The specimens of Escobaria minima and Escobaria sneedii have become very rare in nature and are legally protected species; in particular the Escobaria minima grows naturally only in a very narrow zone in Brewster County, Texas, on a specific substrate of novaculite. The genus especially passionate collectors of tiny and neat plants, with small, colorful and elegant flowers.
These plants are small in size and globular or cylindrical form presenting tubercles paths by a longitudinal groove. Fairly common basal offsets, giving a caespitose appearance. The blooms (daytime) occur during late spring or early summer and can be of many different colors depending on the species: purple, pink, red, green and even yellow.
Growing Conditions
Light: Escobaria love to be in a very bright exposure, but generally not to direct light of sun: the risk, especially during the hottest hours of the day and during the summer, is to get sunburned.
Soil: The soil to grow Escobaria, needs to be well drained, porous and aerated. Despite being small in size, the plants develop a branched root system with extremely thin and fragile tubercles: the fragility of the radical apparatus constitutes a preferential route for the development of mold and rot, in the presence of moisture excess.
Temperature: The average winter minimum temperature, in general, should not fall below 42 to 46 °F (6 to 8 °C), unless individual exceptions; adult plants can withstand frosts also very intense, but only if the temperature rises again quickly. Some species, due to the natural environment in which they were born and grew up, developed characteristics of extreme resistance (Escobaria minima resists up to 18 °F (-8 °C), Escobaria vivipara and Escobaria missouriensis resist even down to -4 °F(-20 °C), in completely dry soil conditions and low humidity): for this reason the Escobaria are considered, with precautions, as winter resistant.
General Care
The Escobaria are very susceptible to rot and therefore require a well-drained soil, without any water excess or stagnation; it has been observed that the plants also suffer the environmental humidity, which should preferably remain very low (30-50%). Avoid watering during the winter, when the plant is dormant: watering Escobaria in cold environmental conditions will almost certainly lead to death of the plant. In the growing season the plants, whose growth is typically quite slow, like to perceive a significant temperature difference between night and day.
Propagation
The experienced grower knows well the difficulties of survival of this genus, certainly not one of the easiest to grow. The seed germination rate is lower than other genus and in fact other methods of propagation are preferable, as a offsets or cuttings.
These plants are small in size and globular or cylindrical form presenting tubercles paths by a longitudinal groove. Fairly common basal offsets, giving a caespitose appearance. The blooms (daytime) occur during late spring or early summer and can be of many different colors depending on the species: purple, pink, red, green and even yellow.
Growing Conditions
Light: Escobaria love to be in a very bright exposure, but generally not to direct light of sun: the risk, especially during the hottest hours of the day and during the summer, is to get sunburned.
Soil: The soil to grow Escobaria, needs to be well drained, porous and aerated. Despite being small in size, the plants develop a branched root system with extremely thin and fragile tubercles: the fragility of the radical apparatus constitutes a preferential route for the development of mold and rot, in the presence of moisture excess.
Temperature: The average winter minimum temperature, in general, should not fall below 42 to 46 °F (6 to 8 °C), unless individual exceptions; adult plants can withstand frosts also very intense, but only if the temperature rises again quickly. Some species, due to the natural environment in which they were born and grew up, developed characteristics of extreme resistance (Escobaria minima resists up to 18 °F (-8 °C), Escobaria vivipara and Escobaria missouriensis resist even down to -4 °F(-20 °C), in completely dry soil conditions and low humidity): for this reason the Escobaria are considered, with precautions, as winter resistant.
General Care
The Escobaria are very susceptible to rot and therefore require a well-drained soil, without any water excess or stagnation; it has been observed that the plants also suffer the environmental humidity, which should preferably remain very low (30-50%). Avoid watering during the winter, when the plant is dormant: watering Escobaria in cold environmental conditions will almost certainly lead to death of the plant. In the growing season the plants, whose growth is typically quite slow, like to perceive a significant temperature difference between night and day.
Propagation
The experienced grower knows well the difficulties of survival of this genus, certainly not one of the easiest to grow. The seed germination rate is lower than other genus and in fact other methods of propagation are preferable, as a offsets or cuttings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Tavaresia includes at least 2 species (Tavaresia barklyi, Tavaresia angolensis) of spiny stem succulents native to southern Africa. Short, erect, 6-14 angled stems carry rows of tubercles furnished with 3 fine white spines which gives the plants a cactoid appearance. Technically, these spines represent a modified leaf spine with 2 side stipules, unique to this genus. Stems take on a dramatic dark colouration in a sunny position, contrasting with the spines. The large funnel-shaped flowers make these plants attractive to collectors. Swellings near the tips of the coronal lobes are also unique to this genus.
Growing Conditions
Light: Tavaresias prefer light shade rather than full sun, although stems may not color up under shady conditions.
Water: They should at all times sparingly watered (best rain water with some occasional fertilizer), and in winter time they hardly require any.
Temperature: A minimum winter temperature of 41°F (5°C) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry.
Soil: They grow well in light gritty soil with a very liberal drainage.
General Care
Tavaresias are mainly grown by plant collectors, lovers of succulents and enthusiasts who enjoy growing unorthodox looking plants. They comes from summer rainfall areas, and are intolerant of excess water, humidity and low winter temperatures and easily destroyed by molds. Flower buds drop off easily in response to the slightest touch or unfavorable conditions.
Propagation
Plants are usually increased by cuttings, which, as they are very succulent, should be allowed to dry a week after they are taken off, when they may at once be put singly into pots. Grafting the Tavaresia on Stapelias is often useful, and can be recommended.
Pest and Problems
Keep their roots free of mealy bugs, as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems and minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots.
Growing Conditions
Light: Tavaresias prefer light shade rather than full sun, although stems may not color up under shady conditions.
Water: They should at all times sparingly watered (best rain water with some occasional fertilizer), and in winter time they hardly require any.
Temperature: A minimum winter temperature of 41°F (5°C) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry.
Soil: They grow well in light gritty soil with a very liberal drainage.
General Care
Tavaresias are mainly grown by plant collectors, lovers of succulents and enthusiasts who enjoy growing unorthodox looking plants. They comes from summer rainfall areas, and are intolerant of excess water, humidity and low winter temperatures and easily destroyed by molds. Flower buds drop off easily in response to the slightest touch or unfavorable conditions.
Propagation
Plants are usually increased by cuttings, which, as they are very succulent, should be allowed to dry a week after they are taken off, when they may at once be put singly into pots. Grafting the Tavaresia on Stapelias is often useful, and can be recommended.
Pest and Problems
Keep their roots free of mealy bugs, as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems and minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ipomoea is the largest genus in the flowering plant family Convolvulaceae, with over 500 species. It is a large and diverse group with common names including Morning Glory, Sweet Potato, Bindweed or Moonflower. The most widespread common name is Morning Glory. The generic name is derived from the Greek words (ips) or (ipos), meaning “worm” or “bindweed,” and (homoios), meaning “resembling”. It refers to their twining habit. The genus occurs throughout the tropical and subtropical regions of the world, and comprises annual and perennial herbaceous plants, lianas, shrubs and small trees; most of the species are twining climbing plants.
Most species have spectacular, colorful flowers and are often grown as ornamentals, and a number of cultivars have been developed. Humans use Ipomoea for their content of medical and psychoactive compounds, mainly alkaloids. Some species are renowned for their properties in folk medicine and herbalism.
Growing Conditions and General Care
In the garden, Ipomoeas need moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Provide shelter from wind. Prune climbing species in spring. Under glass, provide full light with protection from the hottest sun. Water freely and fertilize monthly during the growing season, but water sparingly in winter. Climbers and trailing species need support.
Propagation
Chip seeds with a knife, scrape with sandpaper, or soak in water for 24 hours before sowing at 64° F (18° C) in spring. Root softwood cuttings of perennials or shrubs in spring or summer, or take semi-ripe cuttings in summer.
Pests and Problems
White blister, rust, fungal leaf spots, stem rot, thread blight, charcoal rot, and wilt can occur.
Most species have spectacular, colorful flowers and are often grown as ornamentals, and a number of cultivars have been developed. Humans use Ipomoea for their content of medical and psychoactive compounds, mainly alkaloids. Some species are renowned for their properties in folk medicine and herbalism.
Growing Conditions and General Care
In the garden, Ipomoeas need moderately fertile, well-drained soil in full sun. Provide shelter from wind. Prune climbing species in spring. Under glass, provide full light with protection from the hottest sun. Water freely and fertilize monthly during the growing season, but water sparingly in winter. Climbers and trailing species need support.
Propagation
Chip seeds with a knife, scrape with sandpaper, or soak in water for 24 hours before sowing at 64° F (18° C) in spring. Root softwood cuttings of perennials or shrubs in spring or summer, or take semi-ripe cuttings in summer.
Pests and Problems
White blister, rust, fungal leaf spots, stem rot, thread blight, charcoal rot, and wilt can occur.
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