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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Monanthes is a genus of small, succulent, subtropical plants of the Crassulaceae family. The about ten species are mostly endemic to the Canary Islands and Savage Islands, with some found on Madeira. Its center of diversity is Tenerife, with seven species occurring on this island. On Fuerteventura and Lanzarote, only Monanthes laxiflora occurs.
Monanthes are not frost-resistant. They are linked with the genera Sempervivum, Aichryson and Aeonium, which is obvious from their similar flowers.
Species of Monanthes differ considerably in life- and growth-form. Most species make stemless to short stemmed rosettes of tiny, strongly succulent leaves and do not reach more than 0.4 inch (1 cm) in diameter.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for bright situations in mid-shade or under filtered sun.
Temperature: Monanthes are not frost-resistant. Keep dry at 41 – 50° F (5 – 10° C) in winter, but can tolerate sporadic light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. USDA hardiness zones 9-11.
Water: It likes a winter’s rest and should be kept dry during the winter months. From early spring the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late spring when the plant should be in full growth. Water regularly during the growing period so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.
Soil: Use an open and free draining mineral compost with little organic matter (peat, humus) that allows therefore roots to breath. Outdoors a well-draining rocky or sandy soil is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application.
Propagation
It is easy to propagate either through rosette cuttings or seed.
Grower’s Tips
Monanthes are easily grown in even very small pots in any rich, well drained, rocky soil in a sunny spot. Keep plants drier in winter in full sun and at a minimum of some 10° F (10° C). They takes very little place in the collection and are asking very little attention. The only things that can kill this plants are cold, hot blasting sun and overwatering. Monanthes may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free. Repot it every 2 or 3 years in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Monanthes are not frost-resistant. They are linked with the genera Sempervivum, Aichryson and Aeonium, which is obvious from their similar flowers.
Species of Monanthes differ considerably in life- and growth-form. Most species make stemless to short stemmed rosettes of tiny, strongly succulent leaves and do not reach more than 0.4 inch (1 cm) in diameter.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for bright situations in mid-shade or under filtered sun.
Temperature: Monanthes are not frost-resistant. Keep dry at 41 – 50° F (5 – 10° C) in winter, but can tolerate sporadic light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. USDA hardiness zones 9-11.
Water: It likes a winter’s rest and should be kept dry during the winter months. From early spring the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late spring when the plant should be in full growth. Water regularly during the growing period so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.
Soil: Use an open and free draining mineral compost with little organic matter (peat, humus) that allows therefore roots to breath. Outdoors a well-draining rocky or sandy soil is ideal.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application.
Propagation
It is easy to propagate either through rosette cuttings or seed.
Grower’s Tips
Monanthes are easily grown in even very small pots in any rich, well drained, rocky soil in a sunny spot. Keep plants drier in winter in full sun and at a minimum of some 10° F (10° C). They takes very little place in the collection and are asking very little attention. The only things that can kill this plants are cold, hot blasting sun and overwatering. Monanthes may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free. Repot it every 2 or 3 years in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Blossfeldia is the smallest of the cacti. Although several species of Blossfeldia have been described, most botanist agree on the fact that all the ones described until now should be included in Blossfeldia liliputana. The Blossfeldia is much easier to grow when grafted. Because of their slow growth rate, Blossfeldias are often grafted, which causes them to grow very fast and offset heavily but lose their characteristic disc-like shape, becoming quite globular and bloated. In this case the minimum temperatures acceptable should take in account the requirements for the rootstock.
Growing Conditions
Light: Some shade with ample airflow is preferred for best appearance.
Temperature: Blossfeldia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and can tolerate sporadic frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather with little danger of being killed (Frost tolerance: At least 15°F (-10°C)). However in cultivation it is better not to expose it to temperatures lower than 40°F (5°C), even if in an aerated and protected location. It tends to rot in winter during the resting phase, if kept wet.
Water: Water during the growing period from March till October, the thin, fibrous roots suffer if there is humidity, therefore the plant should be watered only when the surrounding terrain is dry. But needs to be avoided wetting the bodies of these plants while they are in sunlight. A wet plant in the sun light can cause sun burning which can lead to scares or even fungal infections and death. Keep dry as soon as the temperature starts dropping in October and keep it perfectly dry in winter at temperatures from 40-60°F (5-15°C). Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days.
Soil: Grow it in a particularly draining substratum, as it is very sensitive to rottenness when in presence of humidity and low temperatures and let the soil dry out between waterings.
Fertilizer: It grows faster with a low nitrogen content fertilizer in spring and summer.
Propagation
Almost exclusively by seed and graft. The minuscule seeds should be sown on the surface of a very finely sifted soil mix. These plants are very slow growing and is very difficult to keep them alive on their own roots for the first 4-6 months and should be watered by carefully misting with a hand held spray bottle until they are large enough to be watered normally.
Pests and Problems
It may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
Growing Conditions
Light: Some shade with ample airflow is preferred for best appearance.
Temperature: Blossfeldia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and can tolerate sporadic frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather with little danger of being killed (Frost tolerance: At least 15°F (-10°C)). However in cultivation it is better not to expose it to temperatures lower than 40°F (5°C), even if in an aerated and protected location. It tends to rot in winter during the resting phase, if kept wet.
Water: Water during the growing period from March till October, the thin, fibrous roots suffer if there is humidity, therefore the plant should be watered only when the surrounding terrain is dry. But needs to be avoided wetting the bodies of these plants while they are in sunlight. A wet plant in the sun light can cause sun burning which can lead to scares or even fungal infections and death. Keep dry as soon as the temperature starts dropping in October and keep it perfectly dry in winter at temperatures from 40-60°F (5-15°C). Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days.
Soil: Grow it in a particularly draining substratum, as it is very sensitive to rottenness when in presence of humidity and low temperatures and let the soil dry out between waterings.
Fertilizer: It grows faster with a low nitrogen content fertilizer in spring and summer.
Propagation
Almost exclusively by seed and graft. The minuscule seeds should be sown on the surface of a very finely sifted soil mix. These plants are very slow growing and is very difficult to keep them alive on their own roots for the first 4-6 months and should be watered by carefully misting with a hand held spray bottle until they are large enough to be watered normally.
Pests and Problems
It may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Nananthus occurs widely in the interior of South Africa, in the Eastern Cape Province, Northern Cape Province, the Northwest Province, and the Free State. There is also a population in eastern Namibia.
Nananthus is made up of a dozen of species of mesemb. It is related to Aloinopsis and Titanopsis. The thick-rooted plants are tufted with pointed leaves arranged in rosettes and the attractive flowers. The flowers are 0.75 inch (2 cm) wide, yellow, with occasionally some red. Hardy growers, Nananthus will do well in a clayey soil. In the wild, they are summer growers, but in cultivation they often behave as winter growers.
Growing Conditions
Light: They need full sun or light shade on the other seasons.
Temperature: Nananthus will take a small amount of frost for a short time (it is reported to be hardy to at least 10° F/-12° C). Keep cool in summer.
Water: Water minimally in summer, only when the plant starts shrivelling.
Soil: Because of the tap root they need a highly gritty compost with much drainage.
Propagation
Nananthus are propagated by cuttings and seeds.
Grower’s Tips
Coming from a more continental part of South Africa, Nananthus will tolerate intense heat, as well as some frost. They should be lightly shaded in summer. They generally bloom in the fall. Most species develop large root systems, and need to be kept in a large pot. This also means that the soil mix needs to have an excellent drainage to avoid root rot. They are sometimes planted so that some of the root system is shown.
Nananthus is made up of a dozen of species of mesemb. It is related to Aloinopsis and Titanopsis. The thick-rooted plants are tufted with pointed leaves arranged in rosettes and the attractive flowers. The flowers are 0.75 inch (2 cm) wide, yellow, with occasionally some red. Hardy growers, Nananthus will do well in a clayey soil. In the wild, they are summer growers, but in cultivation they often behave as winter growers.
Growing Conditions
Light: They need full sun or light shade on the other seasons.
Temperature: Nananthus will take a small amount of frost for a short time (it is reported to be hardy to at least 10° F/-12° C). Keep cool in summer.
Water: Water minimally in summer, only when the plant starts shrivelling.
Soil: Because of the tap root they need a highly gritty compost with much drainage.
Propagation
Nananthus are propagated by cuttings and seeds.
Grower’s Tips
Coming from a more continental part of South Africa, Nananthus will tolerate intense heat, as well as some frost. They should be lightly shaded in summer. They generally bloom in the fall. Most species develop large root systems, and need to be kept in a large pot. This also means that the soil mix needs to have an excellent drainage to avoid root rot. They are sometimes planted so that some of the root system is shown.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genera of plants within the tribe Stapeliae are all to varying degrees stem succulents. Many of the species resemble cacti, though are not closely related, as an example of convergent evolution. The stems are often angular, mostly four-angled in cross-section, but in some species there are six or more, with some species of Hoodia having more than thirty angles. In size they vary from less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length to over 6 inches (15 cm) tall. The leaves are in most species reduced to rudiments, sometimes hardened and thorn-like, arranged on bumps or tubercles on the angles. Some species, however, still have recognisable leaves, most notably the Indian species Frerea indica, and some members of Tridentea.
Stapeliads are most abundant in warm, dry climates. In Africa, there are two separate regions where Stapeliads have most diversified: northeast Africa, and Southern Africa. Several species are endemic to the small island of Socotra off the Horn of Africa. The Arabian Peninsula, and most specifically the country of Yemen, contain another concentration of species. Several more are found in the drier parts of Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, Nepal, and Myanmar. A single species, Caralluma europea is found in Europe, in the very southern part of the Iberian peninsula.
Most Stapeliads use flies as pollinators, that are attracted to odours resembling dung or rotting meat, emanating from the flowers. Many of the flowers also bear some physical resemblance to rotting animal carcasses, leading to their popular name of Carrion Flowers. However, not all Stapeliads smell bad, or attract flies. Some species use beetles, bees, wasps, butterflies or moths as pollinators. Stapeliad flowers range in size from mere millimetres in species of Echidnopsis and Pseudolithos to those of Stapelia gigantea that can reach 16 inches (40 cm) in diameter, and are some the largest of flowers to be found on any species of succulent.
List of Genera
Angolluma, Baynesia, Caralluma, Desmidorchis, Duvalia, Echidnopsis, Edithcolea, Frerea, Hoodia, Huernia, Huerniopsis, Larryleachia, Notechidnopsis, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Pachycymbium, Pectinaria, Pseudolithos, Pseudopectinaria, Quaqua, Rhytidocaulon, Stapelia, Stapelianthus, Stapeliopsis, Tavaresia, Tridentea, Tromotriche, Whitesloanea.
Growing Conditions
Light: All Stapeliads enjoy dry heat and sunlight, if not too bright and intense.
Temperature: Stapeliads do not like winter cold and should remain fairly dry and warm during its winter resting period.
Water: In growing season, water in moderation when needed, making sure soil is fairly dried out between waterings. Do not water between November 1 and March 1.
Soil: They all need extra good drainage. Stapeliads are shallow rooted and a collection of them can be planted up nicely in a wide, shallow bowl. When planting, it is a good idea to allow the roots to be buried in soil and then put pure gravel or sand around the base of the plant to prevent rot.
Fertilizer: Fertilize lightly, if at all, to prevent overly lush and weak stems.
Propagation
The easiest and best way to propagate Stapeliads is from stem cuttings which can be taken virtually throughout the year. Seed is also a method of propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Stapeliads are relatively easy to grow. They should be treated as an outdoor plant as they will easily rot indoors and cannot flower without exposure to outdoor temperature fluctuations. They should be grown under cover so that watering can be controlled. They require a reasonable amount of sunlight to promote flowering and maintain a well shaped plant. Very shady positions will produce very poor flowering. Stapeliads come from climates where they survive extremely high temperatures in the summer months so most growth is in spring and autumn, with flowering in autumn when the weather starts to cool down.
Stapeliads are most abundant in warm, dry climates. In Africa, there are two separate regions where Stapeliads have most diversified: northeast Africa, and Southern Africa. Several species are endemic to the small island of Socotra off the Horn of Africa. The Arabian Peninsula, and most specifically the country of Yemen, contain another concentration of species. Several more are found in the drier parts of Pakistan, Afghanistan, India, Nepal, and Myanmar. A single species, Caralluma europea is found in Europe, in the very southern part of the Iberian peninsula.
Most Stapeliads use flies as pollinators, that are attracted to odours resembling dung or rotting meat, emanating from the flowers. Many of the flowers also bear some physical resemblance to rotting animal carcasses, leading to their popular name of Carrion Flowers. However, not all Stapeliads smell bad, or attract flies. Some species use beetles, bees, wasps, butterflies or moths as pollinators. Stapeliad flowers range in size from mere millimetres in species of Echidnopsis and Pseudolithos to those of Stapelia gigantea that can reach 16 inches (40 cm) in diameter, and are some the largest of flowers to be found on any species of succulent.
List of Genera
Angolluma, Baynesia, Caralluma, Desmidorchis, Duvalia, Echidnopsis, Edithcolea, Frerea, Hoodia, Huernia, Huerniopsis, Larryleachia, Notechidnopsis, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Pachycymbium, Pectinaria, Pseudolithos, Pseudopectinaria, Quaqua, Rhytidocaulon, Stapelia, Stapelianthus, Stapeliopsis, Tavaresia, Tridentea, Tromotriche, Whitesloanea.
Growing Conditions
Light: All Stapeliads enjoy dry heat and sunlight, if not too bright and intense.
Temperature: Stapeliads do not like winter cold and should remain fairly dry and warm during its winter resting period.
Water: In growing season, water in moderation when needed, making sure soil is fairly dried out between waterings. Do not water between November 1 and March 1.
Soil: They all need extra good drainage. Stapeliads are shallow rooted and a collection of them can be planted up nicely in a wide, shallow bowl. When planting, it is a good idea to allow the roots to be buried in soil and then put pure gravel or sand around the base of the plant to prevent rot.
Fertilizer: Fertilize lightly, if at all, to prevent overly lush and weak stems.
Propagation
The easiest and best way to propagate Stapeliads is from stem cuttings which can be taken virtually throughout the year. Seed is also a method of propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Stapeliads are relatively easy to grow. They should be treated as an outdoor plant as they will easily rot indoors and cannot flower without exposure to outdoor temperature fluctuations. They should be grown under cover so that watering can be controlled. They require a reasonable amount of sunlight to promote flowering and maintain a well shaped plant. Very shady positions will produce very poor flowering. Stapeliads come from climates where they survive extremely high temperatures in the summer months so most growth is in spring and autumn, with flowering in autumn when the weather starts to cool down.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Xerosicyos is a flowering plant genus of the family Cucurbitaceae. Its name comes from Greek “xeros”, (meaning “dry”) and “sicyos” (meaning “cucumber”). There are three species, all endemic to Madagascar.
Xerosicyos danguyi is a large liana with thick stems and round, gray succulent leaves. It is common in cultivation and often called the “Silver Dollar” vine. Xerosicyos perrieri is also a liana with thinner stems and smaller, ovate green succulent leaves. Xerosicyos pubescens is entirely different from the previous species. It forms a large caudex from which deciduous vines emerge. The leaves are lobed and semi-succulent and die back in the dry season and during prolonged periods of drought.
Growing Conditions
Light: A location with full sun is best, although Xerosicyos can grow in partial shade.
Temperature: During the winter months, Xerosicyos are kept at a temperature of around 41-48°F (5-9°C) and are watered only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. USDA hardiness zone 9-11.
Water: They are extremely drought tolerant. A deep soaking once a month in the summer will keep the plant looking good. For pot culture in summer, during the vegetative period, it must be regularly watered, but allowing the soil to completely dry up before watering again (but do not overwater). In winter, it’s to be kept dry. Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days.
Soil: Xerosicyos adapts to most soil types, but not too heavy in texture; good drainage is desirable. If grown in a pot as an indoor plant use a succulent plants soil.
Fertilizer: Low food needs. They should be fertilized only once during the active growing period.
Propagation
It is easily propagated by cuttings or by seed in spring. Cuttings grow easily once left to callous for several days and then planted in succulent soil. Seeds germinate in 14-21 days at 21°C.
Xerosicyos danguyi is a large liana with thick stems and round, gray succulent leaves. It is common in cultivation and often called the “Silver Dollar” vine. Xerosicyos perrieri is also a liana with thinner stems and smaller, ovate green succulent leaves. Xerosicyos pubescens is entirely different from the previous species. It forms a large caudex from which deciduous vines emerge. The leaves are lobed and semi-succulent and die back in the dry season and during prolonged periods of drought.
Growing Conditions
Light: A location with full sun is best, although Xerosicyos can grow in partial shade.
Temperature: During the winter months, Xerosicyos are kept at a temperature of around 41-48°F (5-9°C) and are watered only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. USDA hardiness zone 9-11.
Water: They are extremely drought tolerant. A deep soaking once a month in the summer will keep the plant looking good. For pot culture in summer, during the vegetative period, it must be regularly watered, but allowing the soil to completely dry up before watering again (but do not overwater). In winter, it’s to be kept dry. Preferable not to water on overcast days, humid days or cold winter days.
Soil: Xerosicyos adapts to most soil types, but not too heavy in texture; good drainage is desirable. If grown in a pot as an indoor plant use a succulent plants soil.
Fertilizer: Low food needs. They should be fertilized only once during the active growing period.
Propagation
It is easily propagated by cuttings or by seed in spring. Cuttings grow easily once left to callous for several days and then planted in succulent soil. Seeds germinate in 14-21 days at 21°C.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
A small genus of two species, Neowerdermannia is a genus of spiny globose cacti which are very similar to the genus Gymnocalycium. Flowers are bourne near the apex and have naked floral tubes with scales – eiter white or pink. The fruits are globose and dehiscent.
The body features ribs which are not clearly defined and broken into rather pronounced tubercles. Areoles are small at the top of the tubercles (not the ends) and give rise to as many as 20 stout spines which may be curved or even hooked.
The plants in this genus are found in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, though apparently not in great numbers. It is even more scarce in cultivation and grown by enthusiasts, but not commercially.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for sunny-brightly exposure; can tolerate light shade.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while Neowerdermannias are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Temperature: Neowerdermannias are very cold resistant as low as to 14° C (-10° C) or less for short periods of time.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Propagation
Seeds, also can be grown from cutting or graft. Seeds can be sown in the spring or summer. The seedlings should not be disturbed until they are well rooted, after which they can be planted separately in small pots.
Pests and Problems
Neowerdermannias are especially prone to root rot, therefore, underpot in a smaller container filled with very porous compost.
Grower’s Tips
Neowerdermannias come from mountainous areas, so like bright light, cool and dry conditions in the winter; this is important for the flowers as well as for their health. Without this cool winter period 32-50° F (0-10° C) they normally won’t get many buds. They have a thick taproot and are of difficult cultivation and rot prone because of a great sensitivity to the excess of watering, not easy to get to any large size on their own roots really a challenge to grow into a large clump. Needs deep pot and good drainage to accommodate its tap root. They are commonly grafted to avoid root problems and to make easier to grow. On a graft Neowerdermannias are easier to grow, but the body splits if over-watered (especially in spring).
The body features ribs which are not clearly defined and broken into rather pronounced tubercles. Areoles are small at the top of the tubercles (not the ends) and give rise to as many as 20 stout spines which may be curved or even hooked.
The plants in this genus are found in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru, though apparently not in great numbers. It is even more scarce in cultivation and grown by enthusiasts, but not commercially.
Growing Conditions
Light: Suited for sunny-brightly exposure; can tolerate light shade.
Water: Watering in the summer months, while Neowerdermannias are growing well can be frequent (weekly for small plants in small pots), but always allowing the compost nearly to dry out before rewatering. Watering in the winter months at all is unwise, and certainly not necessary. The difficult times are spring and autumn.
Temperature: Neowerdermannias are very cold resistant as low as to 14° C (-10° C) or less for short periods of time.
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, so that the plants do not sit in soggy soil for more than a day or two after watering.
Propagation
Seeds, also can be grown from cutting or graft. Seeds can be sown in the spring or summer. The seedlings should not be disturbed until they are well rooted, after which they can be planted separately in small pots.
Pests and Problems
Neowerdermannias are especially prone to root rot, therefore, underpot in a smaller container filled with very porous compost.
Grower’s Tips
Neowerdermannias come from mountainous areas, so like bright light, cool and dry conditions in the winter; this is important for the flowers as well as for their health. Without this cool winter period 32-50° F (0-10° C) they normally won’t get many buds. They have a thick taproot and are of difficult cultivation and rot prone because of a great sensitivity to the excess of watering, not easy to get to any large size on their own roots really a challenge to grow into a large clump. Needs deep pot and good drainage to accommodate its tap root. They are commonly grafted to avoid root problems and to make easier to grow. On a graft Neowerdermannias are easier to grow, but the body splits if over-watered (especially in spring).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ortegocactus is a cactus genus that consists of only one species that was discovered relatively recently in the second half of the 20th century. It grows in a very small area on limestone in Oaxaca, Mexico. Ortegocactus macdougallii is the only species, and an exceedingly rare greenish grey clumper. Though its now showing up in cultivation. The 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) heads offset profusely and these offsets can be used for propagation along with seeds. The plant is self fertile and only one is needed to produce fruits and seeds. The flowers come in spring or summer and are yellow.
An interesting characteristic of this plant is the beautiful gray-green dermis, which is notably porous and has a skin-like appearance. Like so many of the small species of Mexican cacti, Ortegocactus is highly prized by collectors. However, as these plants age, they tend to develop rust-colored spots on them even in the care of the most accomplished growers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Ortegocactus macdougallii likes light shade to full sun. It is often grafted since it is tricky to grow when on its own roots. Water moderately in summer and very carefully if at all in winter. It show a distinct intolerance to over watering either by rotting off, or by bursting of the epidermis. Grow Ortegocactus in a fast draining mineral mix. To prevent growing a monster totally out of proportion to their attractive and natural form, you should limit the fertilizer.
Propagation
Very slow from seed. Many authors recommend grafting, first on Pereskiopsis and soon on Myrtillocactus geometrizans. If it does not reject the stock, it is possible to be cultivated without problems. If we prefer to cultivate it on its own roots, we can maintain intact its characteristics without deformities, grafted plants clump readily and the offsets can be used for make cuttings.
An interesting characteristic of this plant is the beautiful gray-green dermis, which is notably porous and has a skin-like appearance. Like so many of the small species of Mexican cacti, Ortegocactus is highly prized by collectors. However, as these plants age, they tend to develop rust-colored spots on them even in the care of the most accomplished growers.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Ortegocactus macdougallii likes light shade to full sun. It is often grafted since it is tricky to grow when on its own roots. Water moderately in summer and very carefully if at all in winter. It show a distinct intolerance to over watering either by rotting off, or by bursting of the epidermis. Grow Ortegocactus in a fast draining mineral mix. To prevent growing a monster totally out of proportion to their attractive and natural form, you should limit the fertilizer.
Propagation
Very slow from seed. Many authors recommend grafting, first on Pereskiopsis and soon on Myrtillocactus geometrizans. If it does not reject the stock, it is possible to be cultivated without problems. If we prefer to cultivate it on its own roots, we can maintain intact its characteristics without deformities, grafted plants clump readily and the offsets can be used for make cuttings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Rhipsalis is a cacti genus with approximately 35 distinct species. One of the most popular varieties is Rhipsalis baccifera, also known as Mistletoe Cactus. This should not be confused with the plant commonly called Christmas Cactus; although they are cousins, they are very different plants and are not classified in the same genus.
While many people think of the prickly plants that are native to the American deserts when they hear the name “cactus“, most Rhipsalis have no needles, and they would not survive the dry soil and bright sun of a desert. Virtually all species are native to the rainforests of South America, the Caribbean, and Central America, leading to their classification as jungle cacti. The difference between the native environments of jungle and desert cacti means that caring for Rhipsalis requires overcoming any pre-conceived notions you might have about what cacti prefer.
Lighting Requirements
Rhipsalis does not thrive in direct sunlight. Exposure to afternoon sun can burn the leaves, turn them yellow, or lead to spotting. However, without sufficient sunlight, They will not bloom, and its growth can be stunted. Rhipsalis does best with morning sun and full shade in the afternoon. As Rhipsalis is commonly grown indoors, care must be given to the placement of the plants. They should be kept at least 20 inches (50 cm) away from windows that receive midday or afternoon sun. The glass in the windows can multiply the heat from the sun’s rays, causing sunburned leaves. Keep in mind that in its native environment, Rhipsalis is accustomed to receiving light that has been filtered through dense, overhanging tree branches. Picturing this environment can help you adjust your lighting accordingly.
Watering
Rhipsalis is not a drought-resistant plant, so regular watering is essential. Over-watering, however, can cause weak stems and rotted roots. Using a watering can may help you measure the amount of water you are providing. The size of the pot compared to the size of the plant, the humidity levels in the home, and the type of potting soil used can all affect the watering frequency. Rhipsalis seldom needs to be watered more than once a week. Check before watering by pressing your finger into the soil to a depth of half an inch. Postpone watering if the soil is moist. You can also use a moisture meter to help you determine whether it is time to water.
Selecting Pots
Rhipsalis does best when planted in clay pots. The advantage of clay pots is that they allow the soil to “breathe” better than other types, helping to dissipate moisture that could rot the plant’s roots. Most varieties of They produce long, hanging leaves that make them ideal hanging plants, so when selecting pots, many people choose styles that can be placed in a metal or macramé plant hanger.
Soil
Novices to the world of jungle cacti might prefer purchasing a potting soil made specifically for cacti. Gardeners with experience growing succulents can make their own by combining regular potting soil with sphagnum, coir, orchid bark, or gravel to ensure proper drainage. Most types of Rhipsalis will need to be transplanted every two or three years using fresh potting soil. When repotting, take care not to damage the roots.
Fertilizing
Do not feed newly repotted or just-purchased Rhipsalis for 12 months. Rhipsalis does not need feeding until the soil begins to become depleted of nutrients. If feeding is desired, use a diluted, half-strength fertilizer formulated for cacti. Feed monthly only during spring and summer months. Follow the directions provided with the fertilizer to determine the correct quantity, which will be based on plant size, pot size, and other factors.
While many people think of the prickly plants that are native to the American deserts when they hear the name “cactus“, most Rhipsalis have no needles, and they would not survive the dry soil and bright sun of a desert. Virtually all species are native to the rainforests of South America, the Caribbean, and Central America, leading to their classification as jungle cacti. The difference between the native environments of jungle and desert cacti means that caring for Rhipsalis requires overcoming any pre-conceived notions you might have about what cacti prefer.
Lighting Requirements
Rhipsalis does not thrive in direct sunlight. Exposure to afternoon sun can burn the leaves, turn them yellow, or lead to spotting. However, without sufficient sunlight, They will not bloom, and its growth can be stunted. Rhipsalis does best with morning sun and full shade in the afternoon. As Rhipsalis is commonly grown indoors, care must be given to the placement of the plants. They should be kept at least 20 inches (50 cm) away from windows that receive midday or afternoon sun. The glass in the windows can multiply the heat from the sun’s rays, causing sunburned leaves. Keep in mind that in its native environment, Rhipsalis is accustomed to receiving light that has been filtered through dense, overhanging tree branches. Picturing this environment can help you adjust your lighting accordingly.
Watering
Rhipsalis is not a drought-resistant plant, so regular watering is essential. Over-watering, however, can cause weak stems and rotted roots. Using a watering can may help you measure the amount of water you are providing. The size of the pot compared to the size of the plant, the humidity levels in the home, and the type of potting soil used can all affect the watering frequency. Rhipsalis seldom needs to be watered more than once a week. Check before watering by pressing your finger into the soil to a depth of half an inch. Postpone watering if the soil is moist. You can also use a moisture meter to help you determine whether it is time to water.
Selecting Pots
Rhipsalis does best when planted in clay pots. The advantage of clay pots is that they allow the soil to “breathe” better than other types, helping to dissipate moisture that could rot the plant’s roots. Most varieties of They produce long, hanging leaves that make them ideal hanging plants, so when selecting pots, many people choose styles that can be placed in a metal or macramé plant hanger.
Soil
Novices to the world of jungle cacti might prefer purchasing a potting soil made specifically for cacti. Gardeners with experience growing succulents can make their own by combining regular potting soil with sphagnum, coir, orchid bark, or gravel to ensure proper drainage. Most types of Rhipsalis will need to be transplanted every two or three years using fresh potting soil. When repotting, take care not to damage the roots.
Fertilizing
Do not feed newly repotted or just-purchased Rhipsalis for 12 months. Rhipsalis does not need feeding until the soil begins to become depleted of nutrients. If feeding is desired, use a diluted, half-strength fertilizer formulated for cacti. Feed monthly only during spring and summer months. Follow the directions provided with the fertilizer to determine the correct quantity, which will be based on plant size, pot size, and other factors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Pereskiopsis is the genus name of the family Cactaceae that have characteristics unlike many other cacti. Their name comes from there likeness to the genus Pereskia, also untypical looking cacti with leaves. The species Pereskiopsis spathulata is the most commonly encountered and used by cacti horticulturalists. Pereskiopsis cacti contain glochids and areoles similar to the Opuntia genus.
They often have tropical features unlike many other cacti with their affection towards regular watering and humidity. They are often found throughout South America in a variety of ecosystems, not exclusive to deserts. However, several species are noted to be in Central America including Mexico. Yet their presence is quite rare in these instances. Research suggests that they are a highly primitive form of cacti and may give horticulturalists and botanists clues as to what cacti originally looked like before subsequent evolution.
Pereskiopsis are often grown by cuttings. Seeds are very rare in the wild and are unheard of in cultivation. Getting Pereskiopsis to flower is also quite rare with no clear cut techniques in pollination. Cuttings are taken from plants that are mature but not too woody. Woody plants become far too tough and dangerous to work with. The glochids can also become a real pain if not handled properly. These little cacti spines will lodge into your skin and become a real irritant all day! Keep a pair of long tweezers to hold the Pereskiopsis cuttings and plants, but also a small precision pair for removing the glochids.
They often have tropical features unlike many other cacti with their affection towards regular watering and humidity. They are often found throughout South America in a variety of ecosystems, not exclusive to deserts. However, several species are noted to be in Central America including Mexico. Yet their presence is quite rare in these instances. Research suggests that they are a highly primitive form of cacti and may give horticulturalists and botanists clues as to what cacti originally looked like before subsequent evolution.
Pereskiopsis are often grown by cuttings. Seeds are very rare in the wild and are unheard of in cultivation. Getting Pereskiopsis to flower is also quite rare with no clear cut techniques in pollination. Cuttings are taken from plants that are mature but not too woody. Woody plants become far too tough and dangerous to work with. The glochids can also become a real pain if not handled properly. These little cacti spines will lodge into your skin and become a real irritant all day! Keep a pair of long tweezers to hold the Pereskiopsis cuttings and plants, but also a small precision pair for removing the glochids.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Hatiora is a species of cultivated ornamental cactus with commonly known varieties such as Easter Cactus, Whitsun Cactus or Christmas Cactus, depending on its flowering season. These plants are among the most popular varieties of cultivated cactus. Some varieties, such as Drunken Dream, have arched stems and are sold for hanging baskets. It is an epiphytic plant, one that grows mostly on tree trunks in wet and humid regions.
The stems of Hatiora may be leaf-shaped or flat. Depending on the species, it can grow to maximum lengths ranging between 20 inches (50 cm) and 6 feet (1.8 m). The stems are green all year round and are smooth, rather than toothed or scalloped. Funnel-shaped, small flowers that resemble tiny daisies grow at the end of stem segments. These range in colour from yellow, orange, red and pink. In some conditions, Hatiora can flower twice a year.
Hatiora grows in the wild in tropical rain forests of south Eastern Brazil, as far south as the state of Parana, along the border with Paraguay. Although it grows mostly on tree trunks, it is sometimes found growing on rocky ground. In the wild, Hatiora bloom in spring and will sometimes flower twice in one year.
Growing Conditions
Light: This tropical cacti likes bright partial light only. It should never be exposed to full sunlight or midday sunlight.
Water: Soil should be kept constantly moist, but never soggy. Do not allow water to sit in the dish underneath.
Temperature: Hatioras prefers spring, summer, and fall temperatures around 75-80 °F (24-27 °C). Winter temperatures should be between 45-65 °F (7-18 °C) only.
Soil: Due to its natural growing environment being on rocks or trees, this cacti requires rough soil to grow well. A 1:1 mixture of potting soil to pumice, tree bark, or perlite is required. Pumice is preferred.
Fertilizer: Hatioras prefers fertilization every 14 days. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, and dilute to half strength. Do not fertilize during resting period.
Grower’s Tips
Hatiora thrives best in indirect light with exposure to morning and evening sun. It prefers a well drained soil. Cactus or epiphytic compost works well. It can be propagated easily through cuttings that can root immediately in soil. Hatiora likes long nights of about 14 hours. Cover the plant with a paper bag to shut out sunlight. Try not to reposition the plant once flower buds appear, as these could fall off during any movement. It needs a month’s rest after flowering, so water sparingly during this period.
The stems of Hatiora may be leaf-shaped or flat. Depending on the species, it can grow to maximum lengths ranging between 20 inches (50 cm) and 6 feet (1.8 m). The stems are green all year round and are smooth, rather than toothed or scalloped. Funnel-shaped, small flowers that resemble tiny daisies grow at the end of stem segments. These range in colour from yellow, orange, red and pink. In some conditions, Hatiora can flower twice a year.
Hatiora grows in the wild in tropical rain forests of south Eastern Brazil, as far south as the state of Parana, along the border with Paraguay. Although it grows mostly on tree trunks, it is sometimes found growing on rocky ground. In the wild, Hatiora bloom in spring and will sometimes flower twice in one year.
Growing Conditions
Light: This tropical cacti likes bright partial light only. It should never be exposed to full sunlight or midday sunlight.
Water: Soil should be kept constantly moist, but never soggy. Do not allow water to sit in the dish underneath.
Temperature: Hatioras prefers spring, summer, and fall temperatures around 75-80 °F (24-27 °C). Winter temperatures should be between 45-65 °F (7-18 °C) only.
Soil: Due to its natural growing environment being on rocks or trees, this cacti requires rough soil to grow well. A 1:1 mixture of potting soil to pumice, tree bark, or perlite is required. Pumice is preferred.
Fertilizer: Hatioras prefers fertilization every 14 days. Use a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer, and dilute to half strength. Do not fertilize during resting period.
Grower’s Tips
Hatiora thrives best in indirect light with exposure to morning and evening sun. It prefers a well drained soil. Cactus or epiphytic compost works well. It can be propagated easily through cuttings that can root immediately in soil. Hatiora likes long nights of about 14 hours. Cover the plant with a paper bag to shut out sunlight. Try not to reposition the plant once flower buds appear, as these could fall off during any movement. It needs a month’s rest after flowering, so water sparingly during this period.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Obregonia, the Artichoke Cactus, is a genus of cacti with a single species, Obregonia denegrii. It is found only within the Valley of Jaumave in the state of Tamaulipas in eastern Mexico. The Artichoke Cactus is found in semi-desert and shrubland at elevations of around 1970 – 2300 feet (600 – 700 m) above sea level. It is often found on rocky, gentle slopes in limestone gravel.
This small cactus is just visible above the surface of the ground, as the heads emerge only slightly from the larger underground root system. The distinctive appearance of the head, which has given rise to the common name of “Artichoke Cactus”, is formed by the spirally arranged, erect tubercles. At the tip of each, there are 3 – 4 flexible spines. White flowers emerge from the centre of the whorl of tubercles, and these develop into whitish-brown fruits if cross-pollination is successful.
This striking cactus produces flowers during the summer months. Fruits develop if the flowers are successfully fertilised through cross-pollination. The fruits dry and then split open, allowing the seeds to be washed away (and therefore dispersed) by rain.
The Nahuatl Indians call the plant Peyotl, and it is said to have hallucinogenic alkaloids. It is one of the closest living relatives of the genus Lophophora.
Growing Conditions
Light: Requires ful sun to develop good compact growth.
Water: Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter.
Temperature: It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period.
Soil: Very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus).
Propagation
Almost exclusively by seeds. But the seedlings are tiny and very slow growing and at first they take one or two years to reach the diameter of 0.1 – 0.2 inch (3 – 5 mm).
Grower’s Tips
This slow growing cactus isn’t always the easiest species to cultivate, but can enlarge relatively fast when well grown. It is often seen as a grafted plant but grows very well on its own roots too. Needs a very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus). Requires full sun to develop good compact growth and watering should be rather infrequent, to keep the plant flat shaped and not become excessively elongated and unnatural in appearance. Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter, or when night temperatures remain below 50° F (10° C). It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period. In the rest period no high atmospheric humidity. Ensure a good ventilation.
This small cactus is just visible above the surface of the ground, as the heads emerge only slightly from the larger underground root system. The distinctive appearance of the head, which has given rise to the common name of “Artichoke Cactus”, is formed by the spirally arranged, erect tubercles. At the tip of each, there are 3 – 4 flexible spines. White flowers emerge from the centre of the whorl of tubercles, and these develop into whitish-brown fruits if cross-pollination is successful.
This striking cactus produces flowers during the summer months. Fruits develop if the flowers are successfully fertilised through cross-pollination. The fruits dry and then split open, allowing the seeds to be washed away (and therefore dispersed) by rain.
The Nahuatl Indians call the plant Peyotl, and it is said to have hallucinogenic alkaloids. It is one of the closest living relatives of the genus Lophophora.
Growing Conditions
Light: Requires ful sun to develop good compact growth.
Water: Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter.
Temperature: It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period.
Soil: Very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus).
Propagation
Almost exclusively by seeds. But the seedlings are tiny and very slow growing and at first they take one or two years to reach the diameter of 0.1 – 0.2 inch (3 – 5 mm).
Grower’s Tips
This slow growing cactus isn’t always the easiest species to cultivate, but can enlarge relatively fast when well grown. It is often seen as a grafted plant but grows very well on its own roots too. Needs a very well drained soil with little organic material (peat, humus). Requires full sun to develop good compact growth and watering should be rather infrequent, to keep the plant flat shaped and not become excessively elongated and unnatural in appearance. Use water sparingly from March till October and keep perfectly dry in winter, or when night temperatures remain below 50° F (10° C). It is hardy to 25 °F (-4° C) for a short period. In the rest period no high atmospheric humidity. Ensure a good ventilation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Leuchtenbergia principis (Agave Cactus or Prism Cactus), the sole species of the genus Leuchtenbergia, is a species of cactus native to the Chihuahaun desert in central and northern Mexico. While it has a fairly wide distribution, it is never common in any locality, typically having widely dispersed individual plants. In habitat, plants almost invariably grow in association with grasses, Yuccas, or Agaves, where their distinctive tubercles and paper-like spines help to camouflage them. The fragrant flowers of this plant are large, to over 3 inches (7.5 cm) across, with attractive, satiny, pale-yellow petals. Individual flowers may only last 2 or 3 days each, but are typically produced in succession so that the total display may last intermittently through the summer months. Flowers arise from the areoles at the tips of young tubercles – mostly (if not exclusively) on the current year’s growth. This species is closely related to Ferocactus, and plants of the two genera are sometimes hybridized – presumably producing some rather unusual looking hybrids.
Agave Cactus is an exceptional plant which is particularly attractive to people who like some of the odder cactus species. Its leaf-like tubercles are practically unique to the cactus family, and its papery, tassel-like spines means that this plant presents little chance of injury to its grower. In time, plants will develop a desert-worn appearance which many growers favor. Best of all, it is a reliable bloomer, producing large, satiny, butter yellow colored flowers. This is a plant with lots of character, and unexpected beauty. To be fair, it may not be the perfect plant for the novice grower, but for those growers who do not mind catering a bit to the specific needs of their plants, this is an excellent choice.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to light shade.
Water: Water carefully, lack of water will make the tip of the tubercles yellow. Too much water will make it rot.
Temperature: Agave Cactus is frost tolerant, and will survive brief exposure to hard frosts (down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit / -7 degrees Celsius).
Soil: The potting medium should be especially gritty to provide extra drainage.
Fertilizer: Feed potted plants yearly.
Propagation
Agave Cactus is usually propagated by seeds, as it rarely pup or have offsets. It has been reported that the plants can be propagated by tubercle cuttings, but this method is not common.
Grower’s Tips
The Agave Cactus is a reasonably easy and tolerant plant, and should grow well given the basic guidelines for growing cacti and other succulents. However, this is a desert species, which is adapted to arid conditions, and seems to benefit from intense solar radiation. It should always be moved to a position outside during the warmer months of spring through early fall to benefit from exposure to direct sunlight, and the increased temperatures of summer. Grown exclusively indoors, this species will slowly languish from the comparatively low light levels of interior spaces, and will probably never really thrive. Grown outdoors, this plant has proven to be a reliable bloomer, invariably producing intermittent blooms from late June through September. Despite its desert origins, Agave Cactus tolerate a remarkable amount of rain through their outdoor growing season, but due to their large, turnip-like roots, they can be very susceptible to root rot when exposed to extended cool and wet conditions, so the potting medium should be especially gritty to provide that extra drainage necessary for this species, and extra care should be given through the winter months to prevent over-watering this species. Many growers do not water this plant at all in the winter.
Agave Cactus is an exceptional plant which is particularly attractive to people who like some of the odder cactus species. Its leaf-like tubercles are practically unique to the cactus family, and its papery, tassel-like spines means that this plant presents little chance of injury to its grower. In time, plants will develop a desert-worn appearance which many growers favor. Best of all, it is a reliable bloomer, producing large, satiny, butter yellow colored flowers. This is a plant with lots of character, and unexpected beauty. To be fair, it may not be the perfect plant for the novice grower, but for those growers who do not mind catering a bit to the specific needs of their plants, this is an excellent choice.
Growing ConditionsLight: Full sun to light shade.
Water: Water carefully, lack of water will make the tip of the tubercles yellow. Too much water will make it rot.
Temperature: Agave Cactus is frost tolerant, and will survive brief exposure to hard frosts (down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit / -7 degrees Celsius).
Soil: The potting medium should be especially gritty to provide extra drainage.
Fertilizer: Feed potted plants yearly.
Propagation
Agave Cactus is usually propagated by seeds, as it rarely pup or have offsets. It has been reported that the plants can be propagated by tubercle cuttings, but this method is not common.
Grower’s Tips
The Agave Cactus is a reasonably easy and tolerant plant, and should grow well given the basic guidelines for growing cacti and other succulents. However, this is a desert species, which is adapted to arid conditions, and seems to benefit from intense solar radiation. It should always be moved to a position outside during the warmer months of spring through early fall to benefit from exposure to direct sunlight, and the increased temperatures of summer. Grown exclusively indoors, this species will slowly languish from the comparatively low light levels of interior spaces, and will probably never really thrive. Grown outdoors, this plant has proven to be a reliable bloomer, invariably producing intermittent blooms from late June through September. Despite its desert origins, Agave Cactus tolerate a remarkable amount of rain through their outdoor growing season, but due to their large, turnip-like roots, they can be very susceptible to root rot when exposed to extended cool and wet conditions, so the potting medium should be especially gritty to provide that extra drainage necessary for this species, and extra care should be given through the winter months to prevent over-watering this species. Many growers do not water this plant at all in the winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ceropegia contains a diverse group of 160 named species native to Africa, southern Asia, and Australia. Some of these perrenial plants have succulent stems, which may be dwarf or vine-like and posess fibrous roots, while others have tubers and relatively thin stems, along which new tubers may form in some species. Species with fleshy thickened roots are the most difficult to grow. The leaves are opposite, but may be vestigal on species with succulent stems.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade.
Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water.
Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering.
Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation
It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips
A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought.
Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade.
Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water.
Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering.
Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation
It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips
A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought.
Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Eulychnia is a genus of candelabriform or arborescent cacti, comprising between 6 and 9 species depending on the authority. These relatively large plants which reach up to 23 feet (7 m) high can survive under very hot conditions—temperatures can reach up to 122 °F (50 °C). Furthermore, this breed of cacti can also survive in some of the driest places in the world such as the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world.
The stems are covered with many long spines arranged on tuberculate ribs. The floral tubes are covered in spines, wool, scales, or all three and are round in shape and when the flower opens, resemble a ball that popped open on one side.
Eulychnia is not common in cultivation and only collectors with a specific interest in the genus seem to grow them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Eulychnia requires full sun or light shade to keep plant compact with strong colored spines. Tends to bronze in strong light, which encourages flowering and heavy spine production. Light shadow my be useful in the hottest summer days.
Water: It requires light but regular waterings in summer, but let the soil dry between waterings. Keep the soil dry in winter.
Temperature: Eulychnia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and are resistant to light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. They are hardy to 28 °F (-2 °C) in short periods.
Soil: Eulychnia likes very coarse mineral cactus mix soil, but can become too elongated if compost is too rich.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Propagation is from seed or cuttings.
Pests and Diseases
Eulychnia may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
The stems are covered with many long spines arranged on tuberculate ribs. The floral tubes are covered in spines, wool, scales, or all three and are round in shape and when the flower opens, resemble a ball that popped open on one side.
Eulychnia is not common in cultivation and only collectors with a specific interest in the genus seem to grow them.
Growing Conditions
Light: Eulychnia requires full sun or light shade to keep plant compact with strong colored spines. Tends to bronze in strong light, which encourages flowering and heavy spine production. Light shadow my be useful in the hottest summer days.
Water: It requires light but regular waterings in summer, but let the soil dry between waterings. Keep the soil dry in winter.
Temperature: Eulychnia need to be kept in a cool place during winter rest and are resistant to light frost if kept on the dry side prior to, and during, cold weather. They are hardy to 28 °F (-2 °C) in short periods.
Soil: Eulychnia likes very coarse mineral cactus mix soil, but can become too elongated if compost is too rich.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Propagation is from seed or cuttings.
Pests and Diseases
Eulychnia may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Pelargonium is a genus of flowering plants native to southern Africa and Australia, which includes about 200 species, commonly known as Geraniums (in the United States also Storksbills). Confusingly, Geranium is the botanical name (and also common name) of a separate genus of related plants often called Cranesbills. Both genera belong to the family Geraniaceae. Linnaeus originally included all the species in one genus, Geranium, and they were later separated into two genera by Charles L’Héritier in 1789.
Pelargonium occurs in a large number of growth forms, including herbaceous annuals, shrubs, subshrubs, stem succulents and geophytes. The erect stems bear five-petaled flowers in umbel-like clusters, which are occasionally branched. Leaves are usually alternate, and palmately lobed or pinnate, often on long stalks, and sometimes with light or dark patterns.
Some species are true succulents with water- storage tissues in the steams, a few species even appear to have succulent leaves, some are underground geophytes.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Most Pelargoniums are grown in pots in a green house or conservatory. They can also be grown inside the house, but need to be in the most sunniest area possible.
Many species do well when they are planted outside in an open area, so that they can become larger plants. This can be a problem though if you want to replant them in a pot for the winter months. Cuttings can be taken in the summer time instead to make new plants.
Succulent species grow well with other succulents and cacti. Pelargonium are very attractive and one of the toughest and most durable succulents.
Pelargoniums main requirement is a warm, sunny, sheltered location. Many species will tolerate drought conditions for short periods. They will show you when they wants water by producing a crop of new leaves, almost all species are winter growers. After the summer you can wait until the plant begins to grow, but you can also give them lights spryings or shower to stimulate their growth, when they are in full leaves they like water, but as always keep the soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause unnatural growth.
Pelargonium occurs in a large number of growth forms, including herbaceous annuals, shrubs, subshrubs, stem succulents and geophytes. The erect stems bear five-petaled flowers in umbel-like clusters, which are occasionally branched. Leaves are usually alternate, and palmately lobed or pinnate, often on long stalks, and sometimes with light or dark patterns.
Some species are true succulents with water- storage tissues in the steams, a few species even appear to have succulent leaves, some are underground geophytes.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Most Pelargoniums are grown in pots in a green house or conservatory. They can also be grown inside the house, but need to be in the most sunniest area possible.
Many species do well when they are planted outside in an open area, so that they can become larger plants. This can be a problem though if you want to replant them in a pot for the winter months. Cuttings can be taken in the summer time instead to make new plants.
Succulent species grow well with other succulents and cacti. Pelargonium are very attractive and one of the toughest and most durable succulents.
Pelargoniums main requirement is a warm, sunny, sheltered location. Many species will tolerate drought conditions for short periods. They will show you when they wants water by producing a crop of new leaves, almost all species are winter growers. After the summer you can wait until the plant begins to grow, but you can also give them lights spryings or shower to stimulate their growth, when they are in full leaves they like water, but as always keep the soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause unnatural growth.
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