文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Scientific Name
Dahlia imperialis Roezl ex Ortgies
Common Names
Bell Tree Dahlia, Tree Dahlia, Giant Dahlia, Imperial Dahlia, Species Tree Dahlia
Synonyms
Dahlia dumicola, Dahlia lehmannii, Dahlia maximiliana, Dahlia maximiliana, Dahlia maxonii
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Genus: Dahlia
Flower
Color: Lavender or mauvish-pink
Bloom Time: Late fall
Description
Dahlia imperialis is a fast-growing, tuberous, herbaceous perennial up to 33 feet (10 m) tall, rapidly growing from the base after a dormant winter period, developing brittle, cane-like, 4-angled stems with swollen nodes and large tripinnate leaves, those near the ground soon being shed. The pendant or nodding flowerheads are up to 6 inches (15 cm) across with ray florets lavender or mauvish-pink in color.
How to Grow and Care
Feed Dahlias about once a month with an organic fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium, such as a 1-2-2 ratio. With enough compost, your Dahlias will do fine without fertilizer. Make sure your Dahlias get an inch of water per week. Keep track of rainfall so that the water is consistent.
Clip off spent blossoms to encourage more blooming. While optional, some gardeners remove many of the flower buds to focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger and showier blooms with long stems. The flower buds come in clusters of three. If desired, remove the two side buds and allow the middle one to grow, and keep pinching off any more side buds that form along the end of the stem.
For a more natural look, pinch back Dahlia plants when small to encourage branching. Dahlias can be divided in fall or spring. Dig up the tubers and use a sharp knife to cut into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye. Allow tubers to dry overnight before replanting.
If Dahlias are hardy in your zone, simply cut them back after the first heavy frost and apply an extra layer of mulch to protect them from the cold. Remove the extra mulch in spring. In colder climates, dig up and store the tubers in a basement or garage, then divide and replant them in the spring.
Origin
Native to Mexico, Central America and Colombia.
Dahlia imperialis Roezl ex Ortgies
Common Names
Bell Tree Dahlia, Tree Dahlia, Giant Dahlia, Imperial Dahlia, Species Tree Dahlia
Synonyms
Dahlia dumicola, Dahlia lehmannii, Dahlia maximiliana, Dahlia maximiliana, Dahlia maxonii
Scientific Classification
Family: Asteraceae
Genus: Dahlia
Flower
Color: Lavender or mauvish-pink
Bloom Time: Late fall
Description
Dahlia imperialis is a fast-growing, tuberous, herbaceous perennial up to 33 feet (10 m) tall, rapidly growing from the base after a dormant winter period, developing brittle, cane-like, 4-angled stems with swollen nodes and large tripinnate leaves, those near the ground soon being shed. The pendant or nodding flowerheads are up to 6 inches (15 cm) across with ray florets lavender or mauvish-pink in color.
How to Grow and Care
Feed Dahlias about once a month with an organic fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium, such as a 1-2-2 ratio. With enough compost, your Dahlias will do fine without fertilizer. Make sure your Dahlias get an inch of water per week. Keep track of rainfall so that the water is consistent.
Clip off spent blossoms to encourage more blooming. While optional, some gardeners remove many of the flower buds to focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger and showier blooms with long stems. The flower buds come in clusters of three. If desired, remove the two side buds and allow the middle one to grow, and keep pinching off any more side buds that form along the end of the stem.
For a more natural look, pinch back Dahlia plants when small to encourage branching. Dahlias can be divided in fall or spring. Dig up the tubers and use a sharp knife to cut into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye. Allow tubers to dry overnight before replanting.
If Dahlias are hardy in your zone, simply cut them back after the first heavy frost and apply an extra layer of mulch to protect them from the cold. Remove the extra mulch in spring. In colder climates, dig up and store the tubers in a basement or garage, then divide and replant them in the spring.
Origin
Native to Mexico, Central America and Colombia.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
A comprehensive guide to orchid care
THE beauty, complexity and incredible diversity of orchid flowers are unrivalled in the plant world. These exotic beauties comprise the largest family of flowering plants on earth, with over 30,000 different species, and at least 200,000 hybrids. Orchids can be found in the equatorial tropics, the arctic tundra, and everywhere in between. The reason for this diversity lies in the orchid’s amazing ability to adapt to its given environment. With so many different orchid varieties that thrive in so many different growing conditions, it is relatively easy to find an orchid that is well suited to the conditions that you can provide — whether it is a kitchen window or a full-size greenhouse.
Most cultivated orchids are native to the tropics. In their natural habitat, they attach themselves to the bark of trees, or the surface of other plants. Their thick, white roots are specially adapted to absorb moisture and dissolved nutrients. Because these tropical orchids usually grow high in the trees, rather than on the forest floor, they are accustomed to good air circulation and plenty of light. They prefer a 12-hour day, all year-round, and require a high intensity of light — about the same as midsummer conditions in temperate regions.
Are orchids difficult to grow? Many of them are. In fact, some are almost impossible to keep alive, much less bring into bloom—even for professional growers. But there are dozens of varieties of orchids, and hundreds of hybrids, that are perfectly happy growing on a sunny windowsill or under lights.
For your best crack at success, start by choosing one of the less fussy varieties that is adapted to the type of growing conditions you can provide. Buy the most mature plant you can afford (young plants are much more difficult to please), and, if possible, buy it in bloom, so you’ll know what you’re striving for.
How Orchids Grow
Orchids are usually grouped into two broad categories that characterize their growth habits. Monopodial orchids have a single, upright stem, with leaves arranged opposite each other along the stem. The flower stem appears from the base of the uppermost leaves. Orchids with this growth habit include the phalaenopsis and vandas.
The more common growth habit is sympodial. These orchids grow horizontally, sending out new shoots from the old rhizome. Leaves and flower scapes form at the top of the new shoots. Many sympodial orchids form pseudobulbs, which are swollen shoots that store water and nutrients to help the plant survive periods of prolonged drought. Sympodial orchids include cattleya, cymbidium, oncidium and dendrobium.
Orchids can also be classified by their native habitat, which gives an indication of the temperature, moisture and light levels they prefer. Orchids native to the humid tropics, such as phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum, prefer daytime temperatures of 73° to 85°F, with 80 to 90 percent humidity. They are happiest in an east or southeast window where the light is not too intense.
Warm-climate orchids, including cymbidiums and dendrobiums, are accustomed to an average temperature of 55° to 70°F, a steady supply of moisture, and good air circulation. They are generally happy in a south-facing window, though they may need a little shading during high summer.
Cattleyas and some oncidiums grow where days are dry and relatively cool. They are able to tolerate a long dry season with temperatures of 80° or 90°F, followed by a distinct rainy season. Their need for light is high, so they should be placed in a sunny, south-facing window.
High-altitude orchids, such as masdevallia and epidendrum, grow in the cloud forests where average temperatures are 60° to 70°F, and humidity is very high. These orchids prefer filtered light that is not too intense.
Caring for Orchids
With 30,000 different species of orchids, it is impossible to give general care and cultivation instructions. However, how an orchid looks can provide clues to its preferences for light, water, and growing medium.
If the plant has few leaves, or leathery leaves (like most cattleyas and oncidiums), it's likely the plant needs a high-light environment. If the leaves are soft and limp (like some phalaenopsis and most paphiopedilum), the plants are probably very light-sensitive, and should not be placed in a sunny south-facing window.
If the orchid has fat pseudobulbs, it should be watered sparingly, and should be grown on coarse chunks of bark or lava rock. If the orchid has no pseudobulbs, it may require more frequent watering, or should be grown in a more moisture-retentive growing medium, such as sphagnum moss.
Light: As a general rule, orchids are light-hungry plants. For best results, they should get 12 to 14 hours of light each day, year-round. In a tropical environment, the duration and intensity of natural light does not vary as it does in temperate climates. For this reason, you may need to move your orchids around, and supplement with artificial light to keep them happy during the winter months.
South- and east-facing windows are usually the best spot for orchids. West windows can be too hot, and northern ones are usually too dark. If you don’t have a good window location for your orchids, they will be perfectly happy growing under artificial lights. Orchids should be positioned no more than 6 to 8 inches away from a set of 4-foot fluorescent bulbs. Opinions vary as to the benefits of cool white, warm white, and grow light bulbs. The new full-spectrum bulbs are probably the best all-around choice. Some orchids with very high light requirements, such as vandas and cymbidiums, may need high-intensity discharge lighting in order to flower. For more information, read Growing Under Lights.
Growing media: Terrestrial orchids, such as paphiopedilums and some cymbidiums, grow in soil. But most tropical orchids are epiphytes, which means that they grow in the air, rather than in soil. Their fleshy roots are covered with a layer of white cells called velamen, which acts as a sponge to absorb water. The coating also protects the roots from heat and moisture loss.
An orchid growing medium must provide good air circulation and permit water to drain very quickly. It must also give the roots something secure to cling to. Depending on the type of orchid, they can be happy growing in peat moss, fir bark, dried fern roots, sphagnum moss, rock wool, perlite, cork nuggets, stones, coconut fiber, lava rock or a blend that combines several of these materials. Some epiphytic orchids can also be wired onto slabs of tree fern or cork. As a general rule, fir bark nuggets are the most popular growing medium.
Watering: Most orchids can tolerate drought far better than they can tolerate excess moisture. Nothing kills an orchid faster than letting it sit in a water-logged pot. Without adequate air circulation, the plant will suffocate and die.
As a very general rule, orchids should be watered once a week. The growing medium should be allowed to dry out between waterings, and excess water should not come in contact with the roots or the growing medium. After being re-potted, most orchids will not resume active growth for several months. Water very sparingly during this readjustment period.
Humidity: Most tropical orchids prefer humidity levels of 60 to 80 percent. With the winter-time humidity level in most homes hovering closer to 30 percent, orchid growers often use a humidifier, or set their orchids in special humidity trays or gravel-filled trays. Some orchids also benefit from being misted.
Fertilizer: Orchid-growing mediums provide very few nutrients, so orchids must be fertilized to sustain healthy growth. Use a liquid fertilizer, and dilute it more than you would for other plants. Fertilizer should only be applied when plants are in active growth. This means that most orchids should not be fertilized in midwinter, or right after they have been re-potted. Many growers use a 30-10-10 fertilizer, though others prefer 10-10-10 or 10-10-30. Misting your orchids with fish emulsion or seaweed extracts will provide micronutrients.
Potting and re-potting: Orchids are usually happiest in a relatively small pot. Plastic pots are preferred because when it’s time to re-pot, the roots can be more easily detached, or the pots can simply be cut apart. To ensure good drainage, you can fill the bottom inch or two of the pot with foam “peanuts.” Suspend the orchid over the pot, and gradually fill the pot with fir bark chunks or whatever other growing medium you are using. The crown of the plant should be just a bit below the top of the pot. Sometimes it's helpful to use a bit of wire to secure the plant until its roots get established.
Some orchids should be re-potted every year. Others may be happy in the same pot for seven or more years. As a general rule, don’t re-pot your orchid unless necessary. Orchids resent being disturbed. Re-pot if the growing medium has started to break down enough to reduce aeration; if the roots are creeping out well beyond the pot; or if new growth has unbalanced the plant.
Propagation: Propagating orchids from seed is quite difficult. Unlike the seeds of other plants, orchid seeds do not contain nutritional storage tissues. To grow, the seed must land where it will find a particular kind of fungi that can penetrate its root system and convert nutrients into a usable form. To overcome the odds, an orchid seed capsule typically disburses millions of microscopic seeds, which can be carried hundreds of miles from the mother plant.
To propagate orchids from seed, you must work in sterile conditions. The seeds must be grown in a gelatinous substance that contains nutrients and growth hormones. You must also be very patient. It takes months for the first leaves to develop, and, even then, they will only be visible with a magnifying glass. Roots appear even later. It will be at least three, and possibly as many as eight years before you see a bloom.
It is far easier to propagate orchids by division. But remember that dividing a plant means forsaking blooms for at least a year. Also, the larger the orchid plant, the more flowers it will produce. Small divisions take many years to mature.
THE beauty, complexity and incredible diversity of orchid flowers are unrivalled in the plant world. These exotic beauties comprise the largest family of flowering plants on earth, with over 30,000 different species, and at least 200,000 hybrids. Orchids can be found in the equatorial tropics, the arctic tundra, and everywhere in between. The reason for this diversity lies in the orchid’s amazing ability to adapt to its given environment. With so many different orchid varieties that thrive in so many different growing conditions, it is relatively easy to find an orchid that is well suited to the conditions that you can provide — whether it is a kitchen window or a full-size greenhouse.
Most cultivated orchids are native to the tropics. In their natural habitat, they attach themselves to the bark of trees, or the surface of other plants. Their thick, white roots are specially adapted to absorb moisture and dissolved nutrients. Because these tropical orchids usually grow high in the trees, rather than on the forest floor, they are accustomed to good air circulation and plenty of light. They prefer a 12-hour day, all year-round, and require a high intensity of light — about the same as midsummer conditions in temperate regions.
Are orchids difficult to grow? Many of them are. In fact, some are almost impossible to keep alive, much less bring into bloom—even for professional growers. But there are dozens of varieties of orchids, and hundreds of hybrids, that are perfectly happy growing on a sunny windowsill or under lights.
For your best crack at success, start by choosing one of the less fussy varieties that is adapted to the type of growing conditions you can provide. Buy the most mature plant you can afford (young plants are much more difficult to please), and, if possible, buy it in bloom, so you’ll know what you’re striving for.
How Orchids Grow
Orchids are usually grouped into two broad categories that characterize their growth habits. Monopodial orchids have a single, upright stem, with leaves arranged opposite each other along the stem. The flower stem appears from the base of the uppermost leaves. Orchids with this growth habit include the phalaenopsis and vandas.
The more common growth habit is sympodial. These orchids grow horizontally, sending out new shoots from the old rhizome. Leaves and flower scapes form at the top of the new shoots. Many sympodial orchids form pseudobulbs, which are swollen shoots that store water and nutrients to help the plant survive periods of prolonged drought. Sympodial orchids include cattleya, cymbidium, oncidium and dendrobium.
Orchids can also be classified by their native habitat, which gives an indication of the temperature, moisture and light levels they prefer. Orchids native to the humid tropics, such as phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum, prefer daytime temperatures of 73° to 85°F, with 80 to 90 percent humidity. They are happiest in an east or southeast window where the light is not too intense.
Warm-climate orchids, including cymbidiums and dendrobiums, are accustomed to an average temperature of 55° to 70°F, a steady supply of moisture, and good air circulation. They are generally happy in a south-facing window, though they may need a little shading during high summer.
Cattleyas and some oncidiums grow where days are dry and relatively cool. They are able to tolerate a long dry season with temperatures of 80° or 90°F, followed by a distinct rainy season. Their need for light is high, so they should be placed in a sunny, south-facing window.
High-altitude orchids, such as masdevallia and epidendrum, grow in the cloud forests where average temperatures are 60° to 70°F, and humidity is very high. These orchids prefer filtered light that is not too intense.
Caring for Orchids
With 30,000 different species of orchids, it is impossible to give general care and cultivation instructions. However, how an orchid looks can provide clues to its preferences for light, water, and growing medium.
If the plant has few leaves, or leathery leaves (like most cattleyas and oncidiums), it's likely the plant needs a high-light environment. If the leaves are soft and limp (like some phalaenopsis and most paphiopedilum), the plants are probably very light-sensitive, and should not be placed in a sunny south-facing window.
If the orchid has fat pseudobulbs, it should be watered sparingly, and should be grown on coarse chunks of bark or lava rock. If the orchid has no pseudobulbs, it may require more frequent watering, or should be grown in a more moisture-retentive growing medium, such as sphagnum moss.
Light: As a general rule, orchids are light-hungry plants. For best results, they should get 12 to 14 hours of light each day, year-round. In a tropical environment, the duration and intensity of natural light does not vary as it does in temperate climates. For this reason, you may need to move your orchids around, and supplement with artificial light to keep them happy during the winter months.
South- and east-facing windows are usually the best spot for orchids. West windows can be too hot, and northern ones are usually too dark. If you don’t have a good window location for your orchids, they will be perfectly happy growing under artificial lights. Orchids should be positioned no more than 6 to 8 inches away from a set of 4-foot fluorescent bulbs. Opinions vary as to the benefits of cool white, warm white, and grow light bulbs. The new full-spectrum bulbs are probably the best all-around choice. Some orchids with very high light requirements, such as vandas and cymbidiums, may need high-intensity discharge lighting in order to flower. For more information, read Growing Under Lights.
Growing media: Terrestrial orchids, such as paphiopedilums and some cymbidiums, grow in soil. But most tropical orchids are epiphytes, which means that they grow in the air, rather than in soil. Their fleshy roots are covered with a layer of white cells called velamen, which acts as a sponge to absorb water. The coating also protects the roots from heat and moisture loss.
An orchid growing medium must provide good air circulation and permit water to drain very quickly. It must also give the roots something secure to cling to. Depending on the type of orchid, they can be happy growing in peat moss, fir bark, dried fern roots, sphagnum moss, rock wool, perlite, cork nuggets, stones, coconut fiber, lava rock or a blend that combines several of these materials. Some epiphytic orchids can also be wired onto slabs of tree fern or cork. As a general rule, fir bark nuggets are the most popular growing medium.
Watering: Most orchids can tolerate drought far better than they can tolerate excess moisture. Nothing kills an orchid faster than letting it sit in a water-logged pot. Without adequate air circulation, the plant will suffocate and die.
As a very general rule, orchids should be watered once a week. The growing medium should be allowed to dry out between waterings, and excess water should not come in contact with the roots or the growing medium. After being re-potted, most orchids will not resume active growth for several months. Water very sparingly during this readjustment period.
Humidity: Most tropical orchids prefer humidity levels of 60 to 80 percent. With the winter-time humidity level in most homes hovering closer to 30 percent, orchid growers often use a humidifier, or set their orchids in special humidity trays or gravel-filled trays. Some orchids also benefit from being misted.
Fertilizer: Orchid-growing mediums provide very few nutrients, so orchids must be fertilized to sustain healthy growth. Use a liquid fertilizer, and dilute it more than you would for other plants. Fertilizer should only be applied when plants are in active growth. This means that most orchids should not be fertilized in midwinter, or right after they have been re-potted. Many growers use a 30-10-10 fertilizer, though others prefer 10-10-10 or 10-10-30. Misting your orchids with fish emulsion or seaweed extracts will provide micronutrients.
Potting and re-potting: Orchids are usually happiest in a relatively small pot. Plastic pots are preferred because when it’s time to re-pot, the roots can be more easily detached, or the pots can simply be cut apart. To ensure good drainage, you can fill the bottom inch or two of the pot with foam “peanuts.” Suspend the orchid over the pot, and gradually fill the pot with fir bark chunks or whatever other growing medium you are using. The crown of the plant should be just a bit below the top of the pot. Sometimes it's helpful to use a bit of wire to secure the plant until its roots get established.
Some orchids should be re-potted every year. Others may be happy in the same pot for seven or more years. As a general rule, don’t re-pot your orchid unless necessary. Orchids resent being disturbed. Re-pot if the growing medium has started to break down enough to reduce aeration; if the roots are creeping out well beyond the pot; or if new growth has unbalanced the plant.
Propagation: Propagating orchids from seed is quite difficult. Unlike the seeds of other plants, orchid seeds do not contain nutritional storage tissues. To grow, the seed must land where it will find a particular kind of fungi that can penetrate its root system and convert nutrients into a usable form. To overcome the odds, an orchid seed capsule typically disburses millions of microscopic seeds, which can be carried hundreds of miles from the mother plant.
To propagate orchids from seed, you must work in sterile conditions. The seeds must be grown in a gelatinous substance that contains nutrients and growth hormones. You must also be very patient. It takes months for the first leaves to develop, and, even then, they will only be visible with a magnifying glass. Roots appear even later. It will be at least three, and possibly as many as eight years before you see a bloom.
It is far easier to propagate orchids by division. But remember that dividing a plant means forsaking blooms for at least a year. Also, the larger the orchid plant, the more flowers it will produce. Small divisions take many years to mature.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
These are a very common pest of cacti and succulents, and potentially a huge topic ! There are many species of mealy bugs, but these insects are all small and hard to identify by amateur growers. Their host-plant range and individual sensitivity to control measures are poorly characterised anyway. There are probably several species of mealy bug going around collections in the UK and elsewhere. From time to time one certainly sees mealy bugs which "look different". These insects are small and grey or light brown and so difficult to see among the spines of cacti. Their general appearance is reminiscent of tiny woodlice about 2-3 mm long. A squashed mealy bug often leaves a characteristic red stain: the cochineal insect, from which a food colourant is made, is a type of mealy bug. Recently, a species that leaves a green stain has appeared in the UK.
Mealy bugs often accumulate to feed on the tender tissues at or near the growing point. Very often, when nesting, they hide around the base of succulent plants, just below soil level or under the old dried leaves of Mesembs such as Lithops.
The first sign of a problem is often small balls of white fluff on the plant, on cactus spines or around the base or under the rim of pots. These are where the females are nesting up inside the fluff and producing young, which may be either born live or produced from eggs. There may also be some sugary honeydew produced by feeding mealy bugs, which can encourage black mould. Ants "farm" mealy bugs for their honeydew secretions and may help to spread them through the collection, so it is a good idea to discourage invasive ants even though they are not intrinsically harmful to succulent plants.
Control of mealy bugs
If there are only numbers of mealy bugs to be dealt with, dabbing a little methylated spirit (industrial alcohol, denatured alcohol) will kill them. Some people also spray their plants with methylated spirit diluted at least 1:3 with water. If you try this, remember that the fumes are potentially toxic and flammable and the liquid could harm the epidermis of delicate plants. Small numbers can be removed carefully with a pin, but it is hard to spot them all.
For large or widespread infestations, use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticidal sprays (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions). Wash off as many of the mealy bugs as possible with a high pressure water jet from a sprayer, and treat the plant with a contact insecticide such as malathion (not for Crassulaceae) or a systemic insecticide. Watering with Imidacloprid (Provado Vine Weevil Killer) seems to be very effective against mealy bugs and has not so far shown any sign of toxicity to a wide range of succulent plants.
Some fumigant smoke cones are also effective against mealy bugs, and have the advantage of being a dry treatment, but require repeated use to be really effective. Give the cone a good shake before igniting to reduce the risk of poor burning, place on a non-flammable surface and retire promptly after lighting the blue touch-paper fuse, before smoke emission begins. I like to do a preventative fumigation in the Spring and Autumn when it is too cold to spray or water the plants with systemic insecticide, but it is getting hard to find effective types of smoke cone in the UK.
Biological control of mealy bugs
Introduce the predator Cryptolaemus montrouzeri, which requires temperatures of at least 70°F (21°C). It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection.
Mealy bugs often accumulate to feed on the tender tissues at or near the growing point. Very often, when nesting, they hide around the base of succulent plants, just below soil level or under the old dried leaves of Mesembs such as Lithops.
The first sign of a problem is often small balls of white fluff on the plant, on cactus spines or around the base or under the rim of pots. These are where the females are nesting up inside the fluff and producing young, which may be either born live or produced from eggs. There may also be some sugary honeydew produced by feeding mealy bugs, which can encourage black mould. Ants "farm" mealy bugs for their honeydew secretions and may help to spread them through the collection, so it is a good idea to discourage invasive ants even though they are not intrinsically harmful to succulent plants.
Control of mealy bugs
If there are only numbers of mealy bugs to be dealt with, dabbing a little methylated spirit (industrial alcohol, denatured alcohol) will kill them. Some people also spray their plants with methylated spirit diluted at least 1:3 with water. If you try this, remember that the fumes are potentially toxic and flammable and the liquid could harm the epidermis of delicate plants. Small numbers can be removed carefully with a pin, but it is hard to spot them all.
For large or widespread infestations, use regular applications (weekly for several weeks) of insecticidal sprays (read the label to find pests controlled, use and precautions). Wash off as many of the mealy bugs as possible with a high pressure water jet from a sprayer, and treat the plant with a contact insecticide such as malathion (not for Crassulaceae) or a systemic insecticide. Watering with Imidacloprid (Provado Vine Weevil Killer) seems to be very effective against mealy bugs and has not so far shown any sign of toxicity to a wide range of succulent plants.
Some fumigant smoke cones are also effective against mealy bugs, and have the advantage of being a dry treatment, but require repeated use to be really effective. Give the cone a good shake before igniting to reduce the risk of poor burning, place on a non-flammable surface and retire promptly after lighting the blue touch-paper fuse, before smoke emission begins. I like to do a preventative fumigation in the Spring and Autumn when it is too cold to spray or water the plants with systemic insecticide, but it is getting hard to find effective types of smoke cone in the UK.
Biological control of mealy bugs
Introduce the predator Cryptolaemus montrouzeri, which requires temperatures of at least 70°F (21°C). It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection.
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1
Mworsham：What is the name of the plant in the first photo at the very top of the article?
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
If your plants are attacked by two-spotted mites, you are going to want to take some action to protect them. What are two-spotted spider mites? They are mites with the scientific name of Tetranychus urticae that infest hundreds of different plant species. For more information about two-spotted mite damage and control of two-spotted mites, read on.
What are Two-Spotted Spider Mites?
You may have heard of spider mites, but perhaps not this particular kind. So exactly what are they? These garden pests are as tiny as mitescan be. In fact, one alone is barely visible to the naked eye, so you aren’t going to be able to inspect it and count its spots. But finding one mite alone is not very likely. By the time you see two-spotted mite damage and think about two-spotted spider mite control, you are likely to have a large mite population. These mites live on the underside of plant leaves.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Damage
As you prepare to fight two-spotted spider mite damage, it helps to understand the pest’s life cycle. Here is a summary of what happens. The mature female two-spotted spider mites overwinter on host plants. They pass the winter either under the host plant’s bark or else on the base of neighbor plants. In spring, the females mate. They lay 2 to 6 eggs a day on the bottom side of the host plants’ leaves, laying perhaps 100 in their short lifetime. In less than a week, the eggs hatch. The new mites lose their exoskeletons three times in their first few weeks. They then become mature adult mites, mate and lay eggs.
If you see two-spotted spider mite damage on your plants, they probably have mites in all stages of development. Generations tend to overlap. In hot dry weather, the infestations are particularly severe and control of two-spotted mites becomes important. You might find two-spotted spider mite damage on either deciduous or evergreen trees or garden ornamentals. Even garden veggies can be at risk. Two-spotted mites suck essential plant fluids from the leaves. With a serious infestation, the foliage yellows or appears mottled. You will likely see fine, silken threads over the leaf surface.
Even with heavy infestations, you may not be able to spot the actual mites on your plants. To confirm your suspicions, hold a piece of white paper under a stippled leave and tap it. Tiny moving spots on the paper means you need to think about treating for two-spotted mites.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Control
The best way to begin treating for two-spotted mites is to apply a pesticide specific to mites called a miticide. Ideally, you should start treating for two-spotted mites before your plants are seriously damaged. Apply the miticide for control of two-spotted mites every 7 days or so. Since mites can develop resistance to chemicals, switch to another type of miticide after three applications.
What are Two-Spotted Spider Mites?
You may have heard of spider mites, but perhaps not this particular kind. So exactly what are they? These garden pests are as tiny as mitescan be. In fact, one alone is barely visible to the naked eye, so you aren’t going to be able to inspect it and count its spots. But finding one mite alone is not very likely. By the time you see two-spotted mite damage and think about two-spotted spider mite control, you are likely to have a large mite population. These mites live on the underside of plant leaves.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Damage
As you prepare to fight two-spotted spider mite damage, it helps to understand the pest’s life cycle. Here is a summary of what happens. The mature female two-spotted spider mites overwinter on host plants. They pass the winter either under the host plant’s bark or else on the base of neighbor plants. In spring, the females mate. They lay 2 to 6 eggs a day on the bottom side of the host plants’ leaves, laying perhaps 100 in their short lifetime. In less than a week, the eggs hatch. The new mites lose their exoskeletons three times in their first few weeks. They then become mature adult mites, mate and lay eggs.
If you see two-spotted spider mite damage on your plants, they probably have mites in all stages of development. Generations tend to overlap. In hot dry weather, the infestations are particularly severe and control of two-spotted mites becomes important. You might find two-spotted spider mite damage on either deciduous or evergreen trees or garden ornamentals. Even garden veggies can be at risk. Two-spotted mites suck essential plant fluids from the leaves. With a serious infestation, the foliage yellows or appears mottled. You will likely see fine, silken threads over the leaf surface.
Even with heavy infestations, you may not be able to spot the actual mites on your plants. To confirm your suspicions, hold a piece of white paper under a stippled leave and tap it. Tiny moving spots on the paper means you need to think about treating for two-spotted mites.
Two-Spotted Spider Mite Control
The best way to begin treating for two-spotted mites is to apply a pesticide specific to mites called a miticide. Ideally, you should start treating for two-spotted mites before your plants are seriously damaged. Apply the miticide for control of two-spotted mites every 7 days or so. Since mites can develop resistance to chemicals, switch to another type of miticide after three applications.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
When people see these unusually colored cacti, quite often they are mistaken as flowers. But in actual fact they are two different species of cacti grafted together.
The brightly colored cactus that sits on top is actually a mutant variation of a standard cactus. In the wild, if a mutant pup is created, eventually it would detach from the parent plant and sadly die as it cannot photosynthesize. The reason it can’t photosynthesize is because it has no chlorophyll (green pigments), which is essential in the photosynthesis process. So in order for a mutant pup to survive, we have to find some other means to give it nutrients. This is where the grafting comes in.
Rootstock plants, which are able to photosynthesize normally, are what the mutant pups are grafted on to. They can provide enough nutrients for both itself and its grafted partner, allowing both to survive. Common rootstocks used in grafting cacti include species of Hylocereus (what we use here at Fickle Prickles), Myrtillocactus geometrizans, Trichocereus pasacana, Harrisia jusbertii, Cereus peruvianus and many more.
Most of the colorful mutants you will see around are derived from the species Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Lobivia silvestrii variegate. However, the possibilities of grafting are endless, and not just limited to mutants.
How to Care for Grafted Cacti
Light: Place these guys indoors or sheltered under verandas or patios as the rootstock is sensitive to the cold and frosts. They do need partial sun, so next to a window is the perfect location if they are indoors.
Water: Very little maintenance is required for these guys to thrive; in fact one of the main reasons grafted cacti suffer is through over watering. Water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry (this can take anywhere from a week to a month depending on location, time of year and environmental factors). The best thing to do is water them thoroughly and then let it drain. If you are using saucers, make sure to empty them out after each watering.
The brightly colored cactus that sits on top is actually a mutant variation of a standard cactus. In the wild, if a mutant pup is created, eventually it would detach from the parent plant and sadly die as it cannot photosynthesize. The reason it can’t photosynthesize is because it has no chlorophyll (green pigments), which is essential in the photosynthesis process. So in order for a mutant pup to survive, we have to find some other means to give it nutrients. This is where the grafting comes in.
Rootstock plants, which are able to photosynthesize normally, are what the mutant pups are grafted on to. They can provide enough nutrients for both itself and its grafted partner, allowing both to survive. Common rootstocks used in grafting cacti include species of Hylocereus (what we use here at Fickle Prickles), Myrtillocactus geometrizans, Trichocereus pasacana, Harrisia jusbertii, Cereus peruvianus and many more.
Most of the colorful mutants you will see around are derived from the species Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Lobivia silvestrii variegate. However, the possibilities of grafting are endless, and not just limited to mutants.
How to Care for Grafted Cacti
Light: Place these guys indoors or sheltered under verandas or patios as the rootstock is sensitive to the cold and frosts. They do need partial sun, so next to a window is the perfect location if they are indoors.
Water: Very little maintenance is required for these guys to thrive; in fact one of the main reasons grafted cacti suffer is through over watering. Water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry (this can take anywhere from a week to a month depending on location, time of year and environmental factors). The best thing to do is water them thoroughly and then let it drain. If you are using saucers, make sure to empty them out after each watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Commonly called Zebra Plant, Haworthia attenuata is a cold-sensitive succulent species grown for its eye-catching, green and white textured leaves. It is hardy within U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10 and above and will produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, once established in a sunny bed. The offshoots provide a simple and highly effective means of propagating new Zebra Plants if they are carefully removed and potted in a suitable growing mix. However, they should only be removed in spring or autumn when the plant is not actively growing, to reduce stress to both the offshoots and the parent plant.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots.
Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade.
Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost.
Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week.
Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant
Things You Will Need
Garden knife
Handheld spade
3- or 4-inch nursery container
Perlite
Coarse sand
Sterile compost
Tip
Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots.
Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade.
Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost.
Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week.
Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant
Things You Will Need
Garden knife
Handheld spade
3- or 4-inch nursery container
Perlite
Coarse sand
Sterile compost
Tip
Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A genus of plants native to the Canary Islands, Aeoniums have leaf rosettes at branch ends that look like large flowers. Most Aeoniums form a small shrub or small tree-like plant, but some don’t branch. There are about 35 species as well as hybrid cultivars.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
Propagate Aeoniums by stem cuttings, except for unbranched species such as Dinner Plate Plant (Aeonium tabuliforme), which die after flowering and are propagated from seed. Aeoniums are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Stem Cuttings
Clean a sharp pruning shears by dipping it in rubbing alcohol.
Decide how long a stem cutting to take; for tree-like forms with bare stems it may be 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) long, and for small shrub-like forms it could be 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) or shorter. Cut off the piece of stem containing the leaf rosette with the pruning shears.
Allow the end of the cutting to heal in a shaded place for at least three days, longer if the stem is thick and succulent.
Fill a clean nursery container that has drainage holes with a mixture of half cactus and succulent potting mix and half perlite, well mixed and slightly moistened. Use a pot just big enough to contain the cutting.
Put the cutting into the rooting medium, burying just enough of it to hold the cutting upright. Put the cutting in bright indirect light, watering it lightly once a week.
Resume regular watering when the Aeonium develops roots. Water thoroughly, then let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Seeds
Collect seeds after the Aeonium has finished blooming. Put them in a paper bag and allow them to dry.
Fill a shallow clean nursery flat with the same mixture you used for rooting the cuttings.
Sow the seeds on top of the mix, scattering them evenly. Cover them with twice their thickness of the potting mix. Water the flat well.
Put the flat in bright indirect light and cover it with plastic wrap. Keep the potting mix moist until germination occurs. Remove the plastic wrap when germination starts.
Prick out individual seedlings when they have reached 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter. Give each seedling its own 2-inch (5 cm) nursery pot, transferring it to just the next bigger pot size as the plant grows. Keep the soil level the same so the flat plant isn’t buried.
Things You Will Need
Pruning shears
Rubbing alcohol
Nursery containers
Cactus and succulent potting mix
Perlite
Nursery flat
Plastic wrap
Tip
Take cuttings when the plant is actively growing, usually fall in USDA zones 9 through 11. Aeoniums go dormant in summer; cuttings taken while plants are dormant don’t root. Each leaf rosette dies after it blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Columnar Cacti earned their common name from the slender shape and erect growth habit they exhibit. Several unrelated species are known by the name Columnar Cacti, including Old Man Cactus (Cephalocereus senilis), Firecracker Cactus (Cleistocactus smaragdiflorus) and giant Saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea).
Like most cactus species, Columnar Cacti propagate reliably from cuttings and put down roots in only a few weeks. However, the cuttings often rot if potted immediately after harvest, so it is best to dry them out for at least three days before planting to keep them healthy and productive.
1. Disinfect the blade of a sharp knife using a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Lay the knife on a flat surface. Allow the blade dry completely before using it.
2. Select a 3- to 8-inch (7.5 – 20 cm) long piece of Columnar Cactus to root. Make sure the diameter of the cutting is 4 inches (10 cm) or less, because larger columnar cactus cuttings are more difficult to root.
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Steady the top of the Columnar Cactus with one hand. Sever the cutting using the disinfected knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle without sawing the flesh of the plant.
4. Place the cutting upside down in an empty ceramic pot so that the cut end is exposed to the air. Set it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Allow the end of the cutting to dry out for at least three days, or until the wound heals and takes on a hard, whitish appearance.
5. Fill the bottom half of a plastic pot with a mixture of half pumice and half sterile compost. Nestled the dried end of the Columnar Cactus cutting into the growing mixture. Make sure one-third to one-half the length of the cutting is below the edge of the pot.
6. Hold the cutting upright while filling in around the edges with more of the pumice and compost mixture. Shake the pot slightly to settle the growing mixture. Gently firm the mixture around the cutting. Add more, as needed, to fill the pot to within 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of the top.
7. Water the columnar cactus cutting two days after potting it. Drizzle water onto the growing mixture until it feels slightly damp at a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Maintain light dampness in the growing mixture, but allow it to dry out slightly in the top inch before applying more water.
8. Set the potted Columnar Cactus cutting where it will receive very bright but indirect light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). Shelter the cutting from direct sunlight, which can cause the flesh to dehydrate and make it likely the cutting will die.
9. Check for roots four weeks after planting. Firmly hold the base of the cactus, and gently try to lift it; if the cutting does not yield to the movement, it has produced roots.
10. Transplant the Columnar Cactus cutting into a permanent pot filled with succulent potting mix or directly into a sunny garden bed four weeks after it has rooted. Water it sparingly.
Tip
Choose a rooting pot that provides at least 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of space around all sides of the Columnar Cactus cutting. As an alternative to drying your cutting, try dipping the freshly severed end into gardening sulfur, which also helps prevent rot.
Like most cactus species, Columnar Cacti propagate reliably from cuttings and put down roots in only a few weeks. However, the cuttings often rot if potted immediately after harvest, so it is best to dry them out for at least three days before planting to keep them healthy and productive.
1. Disinfect the blade of a sharp knife using a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Lay the knife on a flat surface. Allow the blade dry completely before using it.
2. Select a 3- to 8-inch (7.5 – 20 cm) long piece of Columnar Cactus to root. Make sure the diameter of the cutting is 4 inches (10 cm) or less, because larger columnar cactus cuttings are more difficult to root.
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Steady the top of the Columnar Cactus with one hand. Sever the cutting using the disinfected knife. Cut at a 45-degree angle without sawing the flesh of the plant.
4. Place the cutting upside down in an empty ceramic pot so that the cut end is exposed to the air. Set it in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Allow the end of the cutting to dry out for at least three days, or until the wound heals and takes on a hard, whitish appearance.
5. Fill the bottom half of a plastic pot with a mixture of half pumice and half sterile compost. Nestled the dried end of the Columnar Cactus cutting into the growing mixture. Make sure one-third to one-half the length of the cutting is below the edge of the pot.
6. Hold the cutting upright while filling in around the edges with more of the pumice and compost mixture. Shake the pot slightly to settle the growing mixture. Gently firm the mixture around the cutting. Add more, as needed, to fill the pot to within 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of the top.
7. Water the columnar cactus cutting two days after potting it. Drizzle water onto the growing mixture until it feels slightly damp at a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Maintain light dampness in the growing mixture, but allow it to dry out slightly in the top inch before applying more water.
8. Set the potted Columnar Cactus cutting where it will receive very bright but indirect light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). Shelter the cutting from direct sunlight, which can cause the flesh to dehydrate and make it likely the cutting will die.
9. Check for roots four weeks after planting. Firmly hold the base of the cactus, and gently try to lift it; if the cutting does not yield to the movement, it has produced roots.
10. Transplant the Columnar Cactus cutting into a permanent pot filled with succulent potting mix or directly into a sunny garden bed four weeks after it has rooted. Water it sparingly.
Tip
Choose a rooting pot that provides at least 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of space around all sides of the Columnar Cactus cutting. As an alternative to drying your cutting, try dipping the freshly severed end into gardening sulfur, which also helps prevent rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Adenium is a genus of flowering plants that originate from Africa. This genus contains approximately five species, although the genus name typically refers to Adenium obesum unless otherwise specified.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Growing cacti and succulents from seed is relatively straightforward, and can produce a diverse collection of plants in only a few years. There are more than 2,000 species of cacti and succulents suitable as tabletop potted plants or tall floor plants. Cactus and succulent seeds are generally available from commercial seed companies.
1. Clean propagation pans by washing them with disinfectant. Pans should be small and shallow, no more than 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. There are many different suggested growing media formulas to experiment with. One formula calls for mixing a coarsely sifted organic growing medium, such as commercial potting soil, with an equal volume of sharp sand, perlite or pumice for drainage.
2. Pasteurize your growing medium by baking it in an oven at 300 degrees Fahrenheit (150 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes. Allow it to cool and wet it thoroughly. Let it drain but not dry out. Fill the propagation pans with the moist soil mixture to about 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) below the rim.
3. Sow seeds in the pans around the end of April. Plant seeds as deep into the soil as the seeds are wide and press down lightly. Cover small seeds with a sprinkling of sand to hold them in place. Seed spacing will depend on the species of cactus or succulent you are germinating. Cover the pans with clear plastic or glass. Place them in a bright location but out of direct sun. Keep temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If soil seems too dry, spray lightly with water. Be sparing. Too much water can drown the seed. Don’t let soil dry out.
4. Watch for germination. Most cacti and succulents will germinate within three weeks but some species require more time — up to a year. When seedling plants appear, raise the cover during the day for ventilation. Watch soil moisture. Don’t allow soil to dry out but also don’t saturate it. Keep temperature between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 21 degrees Celsius).
5. Transplant your plants into their permanent pots. Most cacti and succulents will be ready to transplant in 6 months to a year after germination. The right growth size for transplanting will depend on the species you are growing. Most cacti can be transplanted when they are the size of a large marble. Many other succulents may be transplanted when they are 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) tall. Gently lift the plants from the growing medium, set into the soil of the new container, firm the soil around the roots and water well.
1. Clean propagation pans by washing them with disinfectant. Pans should be small and shallow, no more than 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. There are many different suggested growing media formulas to experiment with. One formula calls for mixing a coarsely sifted organic growing medium, such as commercial potting soil, with an equal volume of sharp sand, perlite or pumice for drainage.
2. Pasteurize your growing medium by baking it in an oven at 300 degrees Fahrenheit (150 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes. Allow it to cool and wet it thoroughly. Let it drain but not dry out. Fill the propagation pans with the moist soil mixture to about 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) below the rim.
3. Sow seeds in the pans around the end of April. Plant seeds as deep into the soil as the seeds are wide and press down lightly. Cover small seeds with a sprinkling of sand to hold them in place. Seed spacing will depend on the species of cactus or succulent you are germinating. Cover the pans with clear plastic or glass. Place them in a bright location but out of direct sun. Keep temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If soil seems too dry, spray lightly with water. Be sparing. Too much water can drown the seed. Don’t let soil dry out.
4. Watch for germination. Most cacti and succulents will germinate within three weeks but some species require more time — up to a year. When seedling plants appear, raise the cover during the day for ventilation. Watch soil moisture. Don’t allow soil to dry out but also don’t saturate it. Keep temperature between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 21 degrees Celsius).
5. Transplant your plants into their permanent pots. Most cacti and succulents will be ready to transplant in 6 months to a year after germination. The right growth size for transplanting will depend on the species you are growing. Most cacti can be transplanted when they are the size of a large marble. Many other succulents may be transplanted when they are 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) tall. Gently lift the plants from the growing medium, set into the soil of the new container, firm the soil around the roots and water well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Grafting cacti is a process where a cut piece of one species is grown onto a wounded piece of another. It is a straightforward method of propagation which even a novice gardener can try.
Cacti are easy to propagate through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cacti is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants.
Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or Hylocereus undatus, Cereus repandus and Echinopsis spachiana.
Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cacti for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft a Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch (2.5 cm) stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil.
Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one.
Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
Cacti are easy to propagate through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cacti is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants.
Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or Hylocereus undatus, Cereus repandus and Echinopsis spachiana.
Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cacti for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft a Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch (2.5 cm) stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil.
Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one.
Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sempervivum arachnoideum, sometimes known as Cobweb Houseleek is a species of flowering plant in the family Crassulaceae, native to the Alps, Apennines and Carpathians.
It is a low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, forming a mat of fleshy rosettes up to 1.2 inch (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are green or reddish, with cobwebby white hairs at the tips. Starry pink flowers are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in width in flat cymes on stems up to 5 inches (12.5 cm).
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to light shade
Hardiness Zones: 4a – 8b
Soil: Sempervivum arachnoideum, as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage.
Water: Regular in growing season, very little in winter.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown in spring, or root offsets in spring.
General Care
Relatively easy to grow in container or in rock garden, scree bed, wall crevice, trough or alpine house. After the plant blooms and sets seed it will die, but there will be many offsets to take its place. Plant in well drained succulent soil mix in full sun to light shade. Water regularly during the growing season and allow soil to dry out before watering again. Water very little during the winter months.
Pests and Problems
Sempervivum arachnoideum can get vine weevil and may be subject to a rust.
It is a low-growing, evergreen, perennial succulent, forming a mat of fleshy rosettes up to 1.2 inch (3 cm) in diameter. Leaves are green or reddish, with cobwebby white hairs at the tips. Starry pink flowers are up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) in width in flat cymes on stems up to 5 inches (12.5 cm).
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun to light shade
Hardiness Zones: 4a – 8b
Soil: Sempervivum arachnoideum, as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage.
Water: Regular in growing season, very little in winter.
Propagation
Propagate by seed sown in spring, or root offsets in spring.
General Care
Relatively easy to grow in container or in rock garden, scree bed, wall crevice, trough or alpine house. After the plant blooms and sets seed it will die, but there will be many offsets to take its place. Plant in well drained succulent soil mix in full sun to light shade. Water regularly during the growing season and allow soil to dry out before watering again. Water very little during the winter months.
Pests and Problems
Sempervivum arachnoideum can get vine weevil and may be subject to a rust.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Aloe plants are native to Africa and the surrounding regions, there are about 400 species in the genus. Of these, about five are commonly found in cultivation. The most famous is Aloe vera, which has been used medicinally for centuries. All plants are succulents, forming low rosettes of lance-shaped fleshy leaves or, in the case of Aloe arborescens, growing into a taller, bare-stemmed plant topped with 10-inch leaves.
Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it’s still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata and A. variegata.
Growing Conditions
Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light.
Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes.
Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF/21ºC to 80ºF/27ºC, but will survive down to 40ºF/4.5ºC.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix.
Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.
Propagation
During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of Aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently.
Repotting
The plants are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing.
Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.
Grower’s Tips
Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown plant can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it’s essential that it is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of A. vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Plants will almost never flower in cultivation.
Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it’s still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata and A. variegata.
Growing Conditions
Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light.
Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes.
Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF/21ºC to 80ºF/27ºC, but will survive down to 40ºF/4.5ºC.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix.
Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.
Propagation
During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of Aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently.
Repotting
The plants are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing.
Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.
Grower’s Tips
Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown plant can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it’s essential that it is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of A. vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Plants will almost never flower in cultivation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Agave can be exceptional houseplants, depending on which one you buy. There are about 450 species of Agave, including the famous Century Plant (which, for the record, does flower more often than once a century). As desert plants, Agave appreciate direct, abundant sunlight and light water. They are slow-growing, so even specimens that grow into large plants can be kept inside for a period of time before they outgrow the room.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation
Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing.
In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting
In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
Agave are not very “people friendly” their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don’t let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70ºF/21ºC – 90ºF/32ºC) and cooler fall and winter temps (50ºF/10ºC – 60ºF/15ºC).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.
Propagation
Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of Agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing.
In most cases, it’s better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.
Repotting
In general, Agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It’s also best to handle your Agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the Agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.
Grower’s Tips
Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They’re slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you’re the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, Agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you’re the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, Agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and Agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.
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