文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月13日
Peperomia (Peperomia spp.) belongs to a wonderful genus of tropical plants native to Mexico, South America, and the Caribbean. With more than 1,000 known species, these hearty plants boast thick, fleshy leaves that contribute to their drought tolerance and vigor. If you haven't experienced much luck with flowering houseplants, you will appreciate that the peperomia sports ornamental foliage. Its leaves can be textured or smooth in red, green, gray, or purple; variegated, marbled, or solid; large, heart-shaped, or tiny. Plants in the peperomia genus can look so different from one to the next that it's difficult to discern if they are even related. All peperomia plants are low maintenance, slow-growing, and can be planted all year long.
Common Names Baby rubber plant, pepper elder, radiator plant, shining bush plant, emerald ripper pepper
Botanical Name Peperomia spp. (including P. caperata, P. obtusifolia, and others)
Family Piperaceae
Plant Type Perennial, epiphyte
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full or partial
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, green, brown
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Central America, South America, and the Caribbean
Peperomia Plant Care
The peperomia plant is a smart choice for beginner houseplant enthusiasts. Not only are they forgiving plants that tolerate some benign neglect, but the spectacular variety of colors and textures available within the species means that you can amass an interesting collection of plants for every style and space, all of which require the same care.
Plant peperomia in a pot with ample drainage holes, using an orchid potting mix, then place the plant in bright indirect light. Peperomia plants require little in the way of attention. You only need to water them when the soil is dry. Plant food or fertilizer is rarely necessary.
Light
Peperomia plants need medium to bright light to maintain their vibrant foliage colors. Morning light and filtered light are fine, or you can do 12 to 16 hours of artificial light. Insufficient light will result in fewer leaves, leaf drop, and drab coloration. Direct sun rays should be avoided, as they can burn the leaves.
Soil
Many peperomia plant species grow as epiphytes, which means in the wild, they might settle into the nook of a tree and send their roots into some slightly decaying bark. The key to a thriving peperomia is choosing a soil blend that mimics these conditions—chunky, loose, and acidic. An orchid potting medium typically works well, but regular potting soil is fine too. You can always lighten it with a handful of peat moss or vermiculite.
Water
The peperomia has succulent leaves that indicate that these plants don't need frequent watering to maintain vigor. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out between waterings. Keeping the peperomia on the dry side is better than saturating it. Soggy soil can lead to root rot and fungus gnat problems.1
Temperature and Humidity
Outdoors, peperomia plants are hardy to USDA zone 10; they cannot be exposed to temperatures less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. As tropical plants, peperomia plants prefer a warm and steamy environment, especially in the summer months when their growth is most active. If your plant doesn't get an outdoor vacation in the summer, place it on a tray of pebbles and water to increase ambient humidity, or invest in a small-scale humidifier to place nearby.
Fertilizer
When it comes to fertilizing peperomia plants, less is more. Discolored or dropping leaves are usually a sign of inadequate light or excessive watering, not poor nutrition. As a slow-growing epiphyte, the peperomia can go its entire life without supplemental fertilizer, getting what it needs from its planting media.
Types of Peperomia
There are hundreds of different varieties of peperomia plants, many of which make exceptional houseplants. Some of the most popular varietals include:
Peperomia verticillata 'Belly Button': An eye-catching varietal with a compact form and tiny leaves, somewhat reminiscent of the baby tears plant
Peperomia metallica var. Colombiana: A dazzling, tri-colored plant with foliage of bronze, silver, and red
Peperomia nitida (cupid peperomia): A varietal that's ideal for hanging baskets, complete with heart-shaped leaves edged in cream
P. perciliata: A trailing varietal that has a tight growth habit and produces oval-shaped foliage and red stems
Peperomia caperata 'Suzanne': A unique plant with deeply ridged foliage and silver accents
Pruning
Lightly prune peperomia plants in the early spring to correct any leggy, sparse growth. Pinching back the stems will help maximize the plant's lush appearance by encouraging more branching. Remove the end of each stem and the first set of leaves; you can pinch them off with your fingers or snip them off with hand pruners.
Propagating Peperomia Plants
Peperomia plants can be propagated at any time, although springtime is when its growth is more active and likely the best time. If you're already planning to prune your plants in the spring, you can take a stem's extra leggy growth and easily propagate from that stem cutting. Here's how:
First, you'll need sterile pruning snips or scissors, a small pot, potting soil or orchid mix, plastic wrap, and a brightly lit location.
Cut off a leaf including at least an inch of its stem from the mother plant.
Place the cutting in a small container filled with potting soil, cut-end down. Place it in a bright spot with a lot of indirect light. Cover with plastic wrap to create a mini-greenhouse environment to help it retain moisture.
Water consistently and never let the soil dry out. Roots will form within a few weeks; then, you can transplant your cutting into a larger container once it outgrows its original one.
How to Grow Peperomia From Seed
To grow peperomia from seed, you'll need a soilless seed starting mix, sufficient water, and a warm, bright sunny spot to germinate peperomia seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs. It can take 15 to 30 days for seedlings to emerge. Transplant the young seedlings into a container with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 (orchid mix works well). Place the plant in a bright spot with indirect sun. Avoid overwatering as the plant grows.
Potting and Repotting Peperomia Plants
Peperomia plants can live for years in a relatively small container. They enjoy a somewhat root-bound existence, and this, combined with their slow growth rate, means you can leave them alone until you see roots coming out of the drainage holes. If you're moving your seedling from a small, 2-inch container, upgrade to a container that is 2-inches deeper and wider at the brim. Use an acidic potting mix or orchid bark.
Container culture is the most popular way to grow peperomia plants. Choose a container that has excellent aeration to foster a healthy root system. An orchid pot with large openings is suitable, provided you use orchid bark that won't fall out of the drainage holes. Terracotta pots are also excellent containers for peperomia because their porous nature keeps soil from becoming too wet if you overwater by mistake.
Overwintering
Peperomia will turn to mush outdoors if you get freezing temperatures. Bring your peperomia plant inside if you live in a zone that is less than 10 on the hardiness zone map. In the winter, you can significantly reduce the amount of water it gets. Some do not water this plant at all during the winter months.
How to Get Peperomia to Bloom
Peperomia rarely flower when kept as houseplants, but they occasionally do. Their unscented blooms appear as spindly spikes of brown and greenish-white. They don't look like flowers; you might even think they're offshoots, detracting from the look of the plant. You can cut them at the base of the shoot or leave them to fall off once the flower withers naturally. Its natural bloom time is summer, but if you have lighting and temperatures indoors that mimic summer, it can bloom anytime indoors.
Common Pests
Peperomia plants are subject to common pests that can affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies. Insecticidal soap is the easiest treatment for these pests.
Common Problems With Peperomia
Peperomia is a low-maintenance plant that doesn't need much water. Once you've identified a bright but not direct sun location—and you remember to check the soil every once in a while—this slow-grower is not usually fussy. However, here are some signs that your plant might need some additional care.
Discolored, Droopy Leaves and Rotting Smell
Root rot is a disease that is caused by overwatering your plant. You may also notice a rotting smell. Mushy stems are often a sign of a fungal infection. To prevent root rot or fungal disease, make sure that the plant’s soil is completely dry to the touch before you water it. If you catch it quick enough, you can remedy this plant without throwing it all out. Sterilize your pot in a diluted bleach solution. You will need fresh, well-draining soil. Pull out the infected plant from the pot, and cut away any rotting, black or dark brown, mushy roots. Wash the remaining healthy roots. Lay the plant out and allow the roots to dry for a few hours. Then, repot it in the clean pot with fresh soil.
Leaves Curling or Yellowing
In most cases, when peperomia leaves turn yellow or start curling, it means it's getting too much water. Remove the yellowed leaves. You can remove the plant from the pot and add some rocks to the bottom layer of the pot to improve drainage. This prevents the bottom of the roots from sitting in standing water.
Deformed Leaves
Ring spot is caused by the cucumber mosaic virus and is diagnosed when you see deformed leaves. It is often the cause of the plant being overwatered. Pull off the deformed leaves, and the plant should grow back healthy. To prevent this disease from reoccurring, make sure you water the plant only when the soil is dry.
Wilting
If you notice that your plant seems to be wilting, then it is probably not getting enough air to its roots. Repot the plant and use more gravel into the potting soil.
Moldy Soil
Overwatering causes whitish mold to grow on the surface of the soil. To prevent this condition, only water when the soil is dry. To fix it, remove the top layer of soil and replace it. Or, if the mold appears to go down deep, wash the pot and completely replace the soil with a sterile mix.
Leaf Drop
If your peperomia is losing its leaves and you're not overwatering the plant, then try to move it to a spot with a little more bright light. Do not put it in direct sun, but you can relocate the plant near a window with direct light.
Common Names Baby rubber plant, pepper elder, radiator plant, shining bush plant, emerald ripper pepper
Botanical Name Peperomia spp. (including P. caperata, P. obtusifolia, and others)
Family Piperaceae
Plant Type Perennial, epiphyte
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 6–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full or partial
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, green, brown
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Central America, South America, and the Caribbean
Peperomia Plant Care
The peperomia plant is a smart choice for beginner houseplant enthusiasts. Not only are they forgiving plants that tolerate some benign neglect, but the spectacular variety of colors and textures available within the species means that you can amass an interesting collection of plants for every style and space, all of which require the same care.
Plant peperomia in a pot with ample drainage holes, using an orchid potting mix, then place the plant in bright indirect light. Peperomia plants require little in the way of attention. You only need to water them when the soil is dry. Plant food or fertilizer is rarely necessary.
Light
Peperomia plants need medium to bright light to maintain their vibrant foliage colors. Morning light and filtered light are fine, or you can do 12 to 16 hours of artificial light. Insufficient light will result in fewer leaves, leaf drop, and drab coloration. Direct sun rays should be avoided, as they can burn the leaves.
Soil
Many peperomia plant species grow as epiphytes, which means in the wild, they might settle into the nook of a tree and send their roots into some slightly decaying bark. The key to a thriving peperomia is choosing a soil blend that mimics these conditions—chunky, loose, and acidic. An orchid potting medium typically works well, but regular potting soil is fine too. You can always lighten it with a handful of peat moss or vermiculite.
Water
The peperomia has succulent leaves that indicate that these plants don't need frequent watering to maintain vigor. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out between waterings. Keeping the peperomia on the dry side is better than saturating it. Soggy soil can lead to root rot and fungus gnat problems.1
Temperature and Humidity
Outdoors, peperomia plants are hardy to USDA zone 10; they cannot be exposed to temperatures less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. As tropical plants, peperomia plants prefer a warm and steamy environment, especially in the summer months when their growth is most active. If your plant doesn't get an outdoor vacation in the summer, place it on a tray of pebbles and water to increase ambient humidity, or invest in a small-scale humidifier to place nearby.
Fertilizer
When it comes to fertilizing peperomia plants, less is more. Discolored or dropping leaves are usually a sign of inadequate light or excessive watering, not poor nutrition. As a slow-growing epiphyte, the peperomia can go its entire life without supplemental fertilizer, getting what it needs from its planting media.
Types of Peperomia
There are hundreds of different varieties of peperomia plants, many of which make exceptional houseplants. Some of the most popular varietals include:
Peperomia verticillata 'Belly Button': An eye-catching varietal with a compact form and tiny leaves, somewhat reminiscent of the baby tears plant
Peperomia metallica var. Colombiana: A dazzling, tri-colored plant with foliage of bronze, silver, and red
Peperomia nitida (cupid peperomia): A varietal that's ideal for hanging baskets, complete with heart-shaped leaves edged in cream
P. perciliata: A trailing varietal that has a tight growth habit and produces oval-shaped foliage and red stems
Peperomia caperata 'Suzanne': A unique plant with deeply ridged foliage and silver accents
Pruning
Lightly prune peperomia plants in the early spring to correct any leggy, sparse growth. Pinching back the stems will help maximize the plant's lush appearance by encouraging more branching. Remove the end of each stem and the first set of leaves; you can pinch them off with your fingers or snip them off with hand pruners.
Propagating Peperomia Plants
Peperomia plants can be propagated at any time, although springtime is when its growth is more active and likely the best time. If you're already planning to prune your plants in the spring, you can take a stem's extra leggy growth and easily propagate from that stem cutting. Here's how:
First, you'll need sterile pruning snips or scissors, a small pot, potting soil or orchid mix, plastic wrap, and a brightly lit location.
Cut off a leaf including at least an inch of its stem from the mother plant.
Place the cutting in a small container filled with potting soil, cut-end down. Place it in a bright spot with a lot of indirect light. Cover with plastic wrap to create a mini-greenhouse environment to help it retain moisture.
Water consistently and never let the soil dry out. Roots will form within a few weeks; then, you can transplant your cutting into a larger container once it outgrows its original one.
How to Grow Peperomia From Seed
To grow peperomia from seed, you'll need a soilless seed starting mix, sufficient water, and a warm, bright sunny spot to germinate peperomia seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs. It can take 15 to 30 days for seedlings to emerge. Transplant the young seedlings into a container with a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5 (orchid mix works well). Place the plant in a bright spot with indirect sun. Avoid overwatering as the plant grows.
Potting and Repotting Peperomia Plants
Peperomia plants can live for years in a relatively small container. They enjoy a somewhat root-bound existence, and this, combined with their slow growth rate, means you can leave them alone until you see roots coming out of the drainage holes. If you're moving your seedling from a small, 2-inch container, upgrade to a container that is 2-inches deeper and wider at the brim. Use an acidic potting mix or orchid bark.
Container culture is the most popular way to grow peperomia plants. Choose a container that has excellent aeration to foster a healthy root system. An orchid pot with large openings is suitable, provided you use orchid bark that won't fall out of the drainage holes. Terracotta pots are also excellent containers for peperomia because their porous nature keeps soil from becoming too wet if you overwater by mistake.
Overwintering
Peperomia will turn to mush outdoors if you get freezing temperatures. Bring your peperomia plant inside if you live in a zone that is less than 10 on the hardiness zone map. In the winter, you can significantly reduce the amount of water it gets. Some do not water this plant at all during the winter months.
How to Get Peperomia to Bloom
Peperomia rarely flower when kept as houseplants, but they occasionally do. Their unscented blooms appear as spindly spikes of brown and greenish-white. They don't look like flowers; you might even think they're offshoots, detracting from the look of the plant. You can cut them at the base of the shoot or leave them to fall off once the flower withers naturally. Its natural bloom time is summer, but if you have lighting and temperatures indoors that mimic summer, it can bloom anytime indoors.
Common Pests
Peperomia plants are subject to common pests that can affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies. Insecticidal soap is the easiest treatment for these pests.
Common Problems With Peperomia
Peperomia is a low-maintenance plant that doesn't need much water. Once you've identified a bright but not direct sun location—and you remember to check the soil every once in a while—this slow-grower is not usually fussy. However, here are some signs that your plant might need some additional care.
Discolored, Droopy Leaves and Rotting Smell
Root rot is a disease that is caused by overwatering your plant. You may also notice a rotting smell. Mushy stems are often a sign of a fungal infection. To prevent root rot or fungal disease, make sure that the plant’s soil is completely dry to the touch before you water it. If you catch it quick enough, you can remedy this plant without throwing it all out. Sterilize your pot in a diluted bleach solution. You will need fresh, well-draining soil. Pull out the infected plant from the pot, and cut away any rotting, black or dark brown, mushy roots. Wash the remaining healthy roots. Lay the plant out and allow the roots to dry for a few hours. Then, repot it in the clean pot with fresh soil.
Leaves Curling or Yellowing
In most cases, when peperomia leaves turn yellow or start curling, it means it's getting too much water. Remove the yellowed leaves. You can remove the plant from the pot and add some rocks to the bottom layer of the pot to improve drainage. This prevents the bottom of the roots from sitting in standing water.
Deformed Leaves
Ring spot is caused by the cucumber mosaic virus and is diagnosed when you see deformed leaves. It is often the cause of the plant being overwatered. Pull off the deformed leaves, and the plant should grow back healthy. To prevent this disease from reoccurring, make sure you water the plant only when the soil is dry.
Wilting
If you notice that your plant seems to be wilting, then it is probably not getting enough air to its roots. Repot the plant and use more gravel into the potting soil.
Moldy Soil
Overwatering causes whitish mold to grow on the surface of the soil. To prevent this condition, only water when the soil is dry. To fix it, remove the top layer of soil and replace it. Or, if the mold appears to go down deep, wash the pot and completely replace the soil with a sterile mix.
Leaf Drop
If your peperomia is losing its leaves and you're not overwatering the plant, then try to move it to a spot with a little more bright light. Do not put it in direct sun, but you can relocate the plant near a window with direct light.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月04日
Clusia is a large genus of trees and shrubs native to tropical America characterized by their branches, which grow horizontally, and their leaves, which are thick and tough. There are about 150 Clusia species, but Clusia rosea, or the autograph tree, is the only one commonly grown. It is notable for its tendency to grow on top of other plants (often strangling them). It is widely considered to be an invasive species. Another unusual quality, this species is part of the only genus of plants capable of absorbing carbon dioxide at night.1
The autograph tree has stiff, dark green or olive-colored leathery leaves that grow to about 8 inches long. The leaves are tough enough that they can be carved into, hence the common name “autograph tree.” It has long flower heads with pink or white flowers that bloom in the summer, followed by small green fruits that ripen to black and eventually split open to reveal bright red seeds. The seeds are very attractive to birds and other fauna. The autograph tree is commonly grown as an indoor plant. Where it is able to survive outdoors—in zones 10 and 11—it can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Clusia rosea
Common Name Autograph tree, copey, balsam apple, pitch apple
Plant Type Perennial evergreen
Mature Size 8 to 10 feet tall and wide (can reach 25 feet tall as a tree)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sand, clay, loam; well-draining
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White or pink
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11
Native Area Caribbean
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
Autograph Tree Care
The autograph tree tends to spread out fairly wide as it grows. It should be pruned about once a year, in early spring, to keep it nicely formed. Fertilization will help it grow fully. The plant makes an excellent hedge because of its dense growth habit and its minimal maintenance needs. Alternatively, if you grow it tall as a tree, you can underplant things close to its base. The autograph tree is salt-tolerant and can be grown in exposed positions near the ocean.
Grown as a houseplant, the autograph tree needs warmth, humidity, and a moderate amount of sunlight daily. A room with a south- or west-facing window is ideal for giving it a few hours of bright sun plus some indirect light and some shade.
Light
Full sun is best, but this plant can tolerate partial shade as well. When it is grown indoors as a houseplant, it will cope with medium light levels and some degree of shade.
Soil
A sandy, soft, loose, well-draining soil is best. It should be fertile and rich in organic matter. When growing in pots, blend the potting mix with a small amount of growing medium for orchids.
Water
The autograph tree should be watered regularly for the first year or so until the plant is fully established. You can scale back its water after that, although regular watering will help it grow more fully. This species is fairly drought-tolerant, but you should never let the soil get completely dry. Autograph tree houseplants typically need water once a week in summer and three times per month in winter.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant can be kept outside only in tropical areas, as will not tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, it prefers temperatures between 60 and 85. It also prefers high humidity. If you have an indoor container plant, you can place it on a shallow gravel tray filled with water and mist regularly.
Fertilizer
Fertilize three times per year in the spring, summer, and fall. Use organic, granular fertilizer. Or, you can fertilize more frequently but must use an evenly balanced diluted liquid fertilizer.
Potting and Repotting
Due to its quick growth, C. rosea can often overgrow its container. To repot, lift out the root ball as a whole and move to a larger container that can accommodate the root system. As the plant matures, it may become too large to be kept in containers at all unless it is well-pruned. If the climate is suitable, large plants can be replanted outdoors.
Propagating the Autograph Tree
C. rosea is a hemiepiphyte. It begins its life as an epiphyte—a plant that grows on another tree or structure without being parasitic—and grows toward the ground until it eventually plants itself in the soil. Over time, it overgrows and eventually suffocates its host. This growth pattern is what has made the autograph tree a dangerous invasive species in several tropical areas.
The tree can propagate fairly easily by seed or by cuttings. To propagate by cuttings, simply sever the stems and replant in the warm, wet soil to allow them to root. This is a fast-growing and hardy plant that is quite easy to propagate, especially in containers.
The autograph tree has stiff, dark green or olive-colored leathery leaves that grow to about 8 inches long. The leaves are tough enough that they can be carved into, hence the common name “autograph tree.” It has long flower heads with pink or white flowers that bloom in the summer, followed by small green fruits that ripen to black and eventually split open to reveal bright red seeds. The seeds are very attractive to birds and other fauna. The autograph tree is commonly grown as an indoor plant. Where it is able to survive outdoors—in zones 10 and 11—it can be planted in spring or fall.
Botanical Name Clusia rosea
Common Name Autograph tree, copey, balsam apple, pitch apple
Plant Type Perennial evergreen
Mature Size 8 to 10 feet tall and wide (can reach 25 feet tall as a tree)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sand, clay, loam; well-draining
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White or pink
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11
Native Area Caribbean
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
Autograph Tree Care
The autograph tree tends to spread out fairly wide as it grows. It should be pruned about once a year, in early spring, to keep it nicely formed. Fertilization will help it grow fully. The plant makes an excellent hedge because of its dense growth habit and its minimal maintenance needs. Alternatively, if you grow it tall as a tree, you can underplant things close to its base. The autograph tree is salt-tolerant and can be grown in exposed positions near the ocean.
Grown as a houseplant, the autograph tree needs warmth, humidity, and a moderate amount of sunlight daily. A room with a south- or west-facing window is ideal for giving it a few hours of bright sun plus some indirect light and some shade.
Light
Full sun is best, but this plant can tolerate partial shade as well. When it is grown indoors as a houseplant, it will cope with medium light levels and some degree of shade.
Soil
A sandy, soft, loose, well-draining soil is best. It should be fertile and rich in organic matter. When growing in pots, blend the potting mix with a small amount of growing medium for orchids.
Water
The autograph tree should be watered regularly for the first year or so until the plant is fully established. You can scale back its water after that, although regular watering will help it grow more fully. This species is fairly drought-tolerant, but you should never let the soil get completely dry. Autograph tree houseplants typically need water once a week in summer and three times per month in winter.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant can be kept outside only in tropical areas, as will not tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, it prefers temperatures between 60 and 85. It also prefers high humidity. If you have an indoor container plant, you can place it on a shallow gravel tray filled with water and mist regularly.
Fertilizer
Fertilize three times per year in the spring, summer, and fall. Use organic, granular fertilizer. Or, you can fertilize more frequently but must use an evenly balanced diluted liquid fertilizer.
Potting and Repotting
Due to its quick growth, C. rosea can often overgrow its container. To repot, lift out the root ball as a whole and move to a larger container that can accommodate the root system. As the plant matures, it may become too large to be kept in containers at all unless it is well-pruned. If the climate is suitable, large plants can be replanted outdoors.
Propagating the Autograph Tree
C. rosea is a hemiepiphyte. It begins its life as an epiphyte—a plant that grows on another tree or structure without being parasitic—and grows toward the ground until it eventually plants itself in the soil. Over time, it overgrows and eventually suffocates its host. This growth pattern is what has made the autograph tree a dangerous invasive species in several tropical areas.
The tree can propagate fairly easily by seed or by cuttings. To propagate by cuttings, simply sever the stems and replant in the warm, wet soil to allow them to root. This is a fast-growing and hardy plant that is quite easy to propagate, especially in containers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月23日
If you have not seen an Ashe's magnolia in a garden or its native setting you are not alone. The diminutive magnolia with the larger than life leaves and flowers is a rarity.
Magnolia ashei is a species of magnolia that baffles botanists to this day. The tree is so perplexing that scientists continuously research why it has not spread past its restrained native range of only six northwest Florida Panhandle counties.
The good news is that this stunner is finally catching on and people are learning how to responsibly propagate the Ashe's magnolia for use in the nursery trade. It has gained so much popularity that it was named 2017 plant of the year by the Garden Club of America.
When looking for a tree to purchase or research, you might be directed to the bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla). Depending on what botanist is classifying the plant, this is left open for interpretation. Some call Magnolia ashei a subspecies of Magnolia macrophylla. The difference is evident when you see the two next to each other. The tall, M. macrophylla, towers over its stout cousin. The bigleaf magnolia averages 30-40 feet. An Ashe magnolia grows 15-25 feet. As you can imagine, that is not a mistake you want to make.
The Ashe's magnolia has interesting traits that make it desirable to seek out for a garden project, even if it does take a little searching. It is shrubby in form and only grows to about 25 feet but obtains the same width.
The tree flowers in a relatively short time after establishing itself, sometimes as little as two years, and is even known to produce flowers in one-gallon containers. It will flower much more if its lateral roots are given room to grow.
The tree is also light adaptable in that it possesses unique leaves that allow their size to expand or contract if it is in a lower or higher light area. The leaves grow to a wow-inducing 24 inches long by 10 inches across. Then the tree starts to produce the sweet-smelling blooms that are creamy-white with purple centers. The blooms can reach up to 15 inches across with 9 lazily drooping tepals (petals on a magnolia tree).
In nature, you will typically find an Ashe's magnolia in ravine slopes and mixed hardwood forests of those six Florida counties. Here they number in the thousands not hundreds of thousands or millions.
Sadly, the Ashe's magnolia has been declared endangered. Researchers are worried that the tree is not replenishing its own population and that has them concerned for the Ashe's magnolia’s future in the wild. Adding this tree to your landscape would not just be a great idea aesthetically, it would add horticulture interest and be ecologically friendly too!
Botanical Name Magnolia ashei
Common Name Ashe's Magnolia, Ashe Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 25 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Fertile, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USA
Native Range Florida
Ashe's Magnolia Care
For a rare plant, the Ashe's magnolia is incredibly unpretentious. It has been known to grow quite happily in gardens that experience New England winters, while still thriving as it does in its native range. It can be grown with the help of fertilizer in a container on a patio or in the sweltering Midwest summers. Truly the only area where it will not grow in is the harsh deserts of the Southwest United States.
The key to success is giving the Ashe's Magnolia room for roots to grow laterally, a good amount of light, good soil and you will have success.
The Ashe magnolia is pretty easy-going and does not give you many excuses to think twice about including it in your landscape design.
The tree grows as wide as it does high and its roots grow out laterally quite far. So, when planting, it might be a good idea to give it a spot by itself with nothing around it. It deserves a place of pride. The more light it gets, the bigger and the more blooms it puts off.
The Ashe's magnolia will be a small plant when you get it from the nursery, most likely in a one to three-gallon container. The first thing you need to do is dig a hole as deep as the container then expand the diameter to three times the width of the container. Fill the hole with water and add a root stimulator. Place your tree in the hole keeping it straight and upright, replace the soil and tamp it down. Lightly mulch the tree without touching the trunk to a depth of three inches. Water the tree weekly for the first year until established.
Light
Light is not a major concern to the health of the Ashe's magnolia and will only effect blooms and form. Without full sun, the form of the tree will be spindly and have intermittent blooms. The limbs are heliotropic, the plant moves towards the sun, and its form will be affected greatly by that.
Otherwise, there will be no negative health effects. In nature, this is an understory tree and it normally gets dappled sunlight. When it gets an abundance of light it really excels.
Soil
The Ashe magnolia thrives in deep sandy soil types that are well-drained and rich in humus. In its native Florida, there is an abundance of clay and limestone in the soil, so it will really take to soils that mimic those conditions. You do not need to worry about pH unless you are growing your plant in a container.
Water
Like most other magnolias, once you have helped it get established with a weekly soaking, you can let nature do what it does best. The only time you might need to be concerned is if you are growing your Ashe's magnolia in a container. Then weekly watering is in order if there are dry or drought conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The Ashe's magnolia is adaptable to a range of climates but does not do well in hot and dry conditions.
Fertilizer
The Ashe's Magnolia will not need to be fertilized unless you grow it in a container. If you have used a container, then use a slow-release fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that consists of 15-30-8.
Growing Ashe's Magnolia in a Container
Putting your Ashe magnolia in a container on a patio is a great idea if you are lacking room or just prefer having it on your deck or as an accent. What you need to remember is that this plant will need a lot of root space to grow.
If your tree comes in one-gallon container, then buy the largest possible planter you can and plant your magnolia in the pot close to the surface and let the roots do their work.
The soil you plant in should be a good organic mix of humus, vermiculite, perlite, peat, and compost. Check the pH to make sure it is on the acidic side. You can make the environment perfect for your tree since you are building its home.
Magnolia ashei is a species of magnolia that baffles botanists to this day. The tree is so perplexing that scientists continuously research why it has not spread past its restrained native range of only six northwest Florida Panhandle counties.
The good news is that this stunner is finally catching on and people are learning how to responsibly propagate the Ashe's magnolia for use in the nursery trade. It has gained so much popularity that it was named 2017 plant of the year by the Garden Club of America.
When looking for a tree to purchase or research, you might be directed to the bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla). Depending on what botanist is classifying the plant, this is left open for interpretation. Some call Magnolia ashei a subspecies of Magnolia macrophylla. The difference is evident when you see the two next to each other. The tall, M. macrophylla, towers over its stout cousin. The bigleaf magnolia averages 30-40 feet. An Ashe magnolia grows 15-25 feet. As you can imagine, that is not a mistake you want to make.
The Ashe's magnolia has interesting traits that make it desirable to seek out for a garden project, even if it does take a little searching. It is shrubby in form and only grows to about 25 feet but obtains the same width.
The tree flowers in a relatively short time after establishing itself, sometimes as little as two years, and is even known to produce flowers in one-gallon containers. It will flower much more if its lateral roots are given room to grow.
The tree is also light adaptable in that it possesses unique leaves that allow their size to expand or contract if it is in a lower or higher light area. The leaves grow to a wow-inducing 24 inches long by 10 inches across. Then the tree starts to produce the sweet-smelling blooms that are creamy-white with purple centers. The blooms can reach up to 15 inches across with 9 lazily drooping tepals (petals on a magnolia tree).
In nature, you will typically find an Ashe's magnolia in ravine slopes and mixed hardwood forests of those six Florida counties. Here they number in the thousands not hundreds of thousands or millions.
Sadly, the Ashe's magnolia has been declared endangered. Researchers are worried that the tree is not replenishing its own population and that has them concerned for the Ashe's magnolia’s future in the wild. Adding this tree to your landscape would not just be a great idea aesthetically, it would add horticulture interest and be ecologically friendly too!
Botanical Name Magnolia ashei
Common Name Ashe's Magnolia, Ashe Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 25 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full Sun, Partial Shade
Soil Type Fertile, Well-drained
Soil pH Acid, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 6-9, USA
Native Range Florida
Ashe's Magnolia Care
For a rare plant, the Ashe's magnolia is incredibly unpretentious. It has been known to grow quite happily in gardens that experience New England winters, while still thriving as it does in its native range. It can be grown with the help of fertilizer in a container on a patio or in the sweltering Midwest summers. Truly the only area where it will not grow in is the harsh deserts of the Southwest United States.
The key to success is giving the Ashe's Magnolia room for roots to grow laterally, a good amount of light, good soil and you will have success.
The Ashe magnolia is pretty easy-going and does not give you many excuses to think twice about including it in your landscape design.
The tree grows as wide as it does high and its roots grow out laterally quite far. So, when planting, it might be a good idea to give it a spot by itself with nothing around it. It deserves a place of pride. The more light it gets, the bigger and the more blooms it puts off.
The Ashe's magnolia will be a small plant when you get it from the nursery, most likely in a one to three-gallon container. The first thing you need to do is dig a hole as deep as the container then expand the diameter to three times the width of the container. Fill the hole with water and add a root stimulator. Place your tree in the hole keeping it straight and upright, replace the soil and tamp it down. Lightly mulch the tree without touching the trunk to a depth of three inches. Water the tree weekly for the first year until established.
Light
Light is not a major concern to the health of the Ashe's magnolia and will only effect blooms and form. Without full sun, the form of the tree will be spindly and have intermittent blooms. The limbs are heliotropic, the plant moves towards the sun, and its form will be affected greatly by that.
Otherwise, there will be no negative health effects. In nature, this is an understory tree and it normally gets dappled sunlight. When it gets an abundance of light it really excels.
Soil
The Ashe magnolia thrives in deep sandy soil types that are well-drained and rich in humus. In its native Florida, there is an abundance of clay and limestone in the soil, so it will really take to soils that mimic those conditions. You do not need to worry about pH unless you are growing your plant in a container.
Water
Like most other magnolias, once you have helped it get established with a weekly soaking, you can let nature do what it does best. The only time you might need to be concerned is if you are growing your Ashe's magnolia in a container. Then weekly watering is in order if there are dry or drought conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The Ashe's magnolia is adaptable to a range of climates but does not do well in hot and dry conditions.
Fertilizer
The Ashe's Magnolia will not need to be fertilized unless you grow it in a container. If you have used a container, then use a slow-release fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that consists of 15-30-8.
Growing Ashe's Magnolia in a Container
Putting your Ashe magnolia in a container on a patio is a great idea if you are lacking room or just prefer having it on your deck or as an accent. What you need to remember is that this plant will need a lot of root space to grow.
If your tree comes in one-gallon container, then buy the largest possible planter you can and plant your magnolia in the pot close to the surface and let the roots do their work.
The soil you plant in should be a good organic mix of humus, vermiculite, perlite, peat, and compost. Check the pH to make sure it is on the acidic side. You can make the environment perfect for your tree since you are building its home.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月12日
It is hard to believe that the areca palm (Dypsis lutescens) was once an endangered species. Drive down almost any street in a warm climate, and you are likely to see dozens of these tall, attractive, clumping palms that look a lot like bamboo. The palms have smooth, sometimes golden trunks that are reminiscent of bamboo clumps. Their fronds are narrow and full, almost like bamboo leaves. When grown outdoors, they are often used as a privacy screen. They also are commonly grown as houseplants. These palms are best planted in the spring, and they have a slow to moderate growth rate.
Common Names Areca palm, bamboo palm, butterfly palm, golden cane palm, yellow palm
Botanical Name Dypsis lutescens (formerly Chrysalidocarpus lutescens)
Family Arecaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 10–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Pale yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Madagascar
Areca Palm Care
When grown outdoors, it is important to start an areca palm off right in a planting site that has good drainage. Soggy soil can easily cause root rot on a palm. As a houseplant, a well-draining container is essential.
In terms of regular care, plan to water your areca palm whenever the soil starts to dry out. This is especially important for outdoor palms in hot weather to keep them healthy. Moreover, indoor palms often don’t get enough light unless you have a very bright window. So it can benefit your palm to bring it outdoors in warm weather to be exposed to diffused sunlight. Feed both indoor and outdoor palms throughout the growing season. These palms don't need much in the way of pruning. Wait to remove any dying fronds until they are mostly brown, as they still can play a role in photosynthesis.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like bright, filtered sunlight, but they also can tolerate full sun. Ideally, they should have protection from strong afternoon sun, as too severe of light can scorch the foliage. Indoors, areca palms do best with bright light exposure from a south- or west-facing window.
Soil
For potted indoor plants, a well-draining, peat-based potting mix is perfect. Outdoor specimens do best with a rich, slightly acidic soil that has very good drainage. Amending with sand and peat moss might be necessary to improve porousness and lower the pH of the soil.
Water
Like many palms, areca palms like moist soil, but they are sensitive to overwatering and cannot tolerate being waterlogged or sitting in a water-saturated potting mix. So let the soil or potting mix dry out slightly between waterings. Areca palms also are sensitive to fluoridated water, so use distilled water or collected rainwater.1
Temperature and Humidity
Indoors or outdoors, this plant does best in average temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It will do fine planted in the garden in regions where outdoor temperatures don't dip below about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. When grown as an indoor plant, keep the leaves away from cold windows, air conditioners, and heat sources. And if you place potted plants outside during the summer, be sure to bring them in before temperatures dip below 50 degrees. Sudden cold bursts can cause dark spots on the leaves. Furthermore, high humidity is essential to keeping an areca palm looking its best. The plant will acclimate to normal indoor humidity. But if the air is too dry, it is common for the leaf tips to turn brown.
Fertilizer
The areca palm is a heavy feeder and requires fertilizing from spring to early fall with a liquid fertilizer, following label instructions. Do not feed during the late fall and winter when the plant is dormant.
Propagating Areca Palm
You can propagate areca palm by root division, which will give you a lush plant faster than from seed, but you will not be successful doing so with cuttings. Root division can be done at any time during the year, but the plant will be its strongest in the spring. To divide by root division from a potted areca palm:
Choose a mature plant with multiple stems.
Water well the day before dividing to loosen up the roots from the soil.
Remove the palm from its pot by patting the sides of the container to loosen the root ball.
Shake soil from the roots. Rinse soil from roots so you can see which roots go to which stems.
Choose four to five stems and, with a sharp knife, cut them away from the parent.
Gently place divided stems together in a pot with a 2-to-1 mixture of regular potting soil and coarse sand.
Place the pot in bright and indirect light (not direct sun) and water normally.
How to Grow Areca Palm From Seed
Areca palms can also be planted from seeds. It is unusual to find areca palm seeds at garden centers; however, you can harvest seeds from the fruits that appear after the palm's yellow flowers bloom.
If you propagate with seeds, germinate them at home by planting them slightly covered in a seed-starting mix. The older, orange-colored seeds generally have a better germination rate than the newer, greener seeds. Germination takes about six weeks with soil over 80 degrees Fahrenheit and relatively high humidity. Keep the seed-starting mix moist but not soggy as you wait for germination, and then continue to keep the seedlings moist as well. When the seedlings grow a few leaves, plant them outdoors 3 to 6 feet apart, or plant three to four seedlings to a 12-inch pot to create a bushy look.
Potting and Repotting Areca Palms
Areca palms like a somewhat cramped container with ample drainage holes, and crowded roots will aid in keeping the palm's size in check for growth as a houseplant. However, it's still ideal to repot every other year or so to refresh the potting mix and remove fertilizer salt deposits that have built up in the container. You may use the same pot if the palm's root ball still comfortably fits it. Otherwise, use just one container size up. Replant the palm at the same depth as it was previously.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Areca palms don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. Occasionally a palm will come down with lethal yellowing, an insect-transmitted bacterial disease that causes fronds and ultimately the whole palm to die. Outdoor palms are generally the ones afflicted with this, and because treatment usually isn’t effective it’s typically best to remove the palm before the disease can spread. Indoor areca palms are vulnerable to common houseplant pests, including mites, aphids, mealybugs, scale, and whiteflies, which can cause foliage damage and discoloration. Treat any infestation as soon as possible.
Common Problems With Areca Palm
Although the plant can be easy to care for, it's prone to one particular issue that happens to both indoor and outdoor areca palms: Keep an eye out for leaf tip burn.
Leaf Tip Burn
Leaf tip burn means the tips and leaves have turned yellow or brown. This can happen from:
Chilled air
Overwatering
Underwatering
Poor soil conditions
Compacted roots
The areca palm is self-cleaning, which means it typically will shed its brown fronds on its own. For an indoor areca palm, it may be best to first amend the soil to make sure it's draining and the roots are not sitting in water. Or, move the pot to a spot with less light and higher humidity before thinking about the last resort of repotting the plant. You can also manually sheer off brown spots to tidy up your indoor or outdoor plant.
Common Names Areca palm, bamboo palm, butterfly palm, golden cane palm, yellow palm
Botanical Name Dypsis lutescens (formerly Chrysalidocarpus lutescens)
Family Arecaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 10–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Pale yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Madagascar
Areca Palm Care
When grown outdoors, it is important to start an areca palm off right in a planting site that has good drainage. Soggy soil can easily cause root rot on a palm. As a houseplant, a well-draining container is essential.
In terms of regular care, plan to water your areca palm whenever the soil starts to dry out. This is especially important for outdoor palms in hot weather to keep them healthy. Moreover, indoor palms often don’t get enough light unless you have a very bright window. So it can benefit your palm to bring it outdoors in warm weather to be exposed to diffused sunlight. Feed both indoor and outdoor palms throughout the growing season. These palms don't need much in the way of pruning. Wait to remove any dying fronds until they are mostly brown, as they still can play a role in photosynthesis.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like bright, filtered sunlight, but they also can tolerate full sun. Ideally, they should have protection from strong afternoon sun, as too severe of light can scorch the foliage. Indoors, areca palms do best with bright light exposure from a south- or west-facing window.
Soil
For potted indoor plants, a well-draining, peat-based potting mix is perfect. Outdoor specimens do best with a rich, slightly acidic soil that has very good drainage. Amending with sand and peat moss might be necessary to improve porousness and lower the pH of the soil.
Water
Like many palms, areca palms like moist soil, but they are sensitive to overwatering and cannot tolerate being waterlogged or sitting in a water-saturated potting mix. So let the soil or potting mix dry out slightly between waterings. Areca palms also are sensitive to fluoridated water, so use distilled water or collected rainwater.1
Temperature and Humidity
Indoors or outdoors, this plant does best in average temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It will do fine planted in the garden in regions where outdoor temperatures don't dip below about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. When grown as an indoor plant, keep the leaves away from cold windows, air conditioners, and heat sources. And if you place potted plants outside during the summer, be sure to bring them in before temperatures dip below 50 degrees. Sudden cold bursts can cause dark spots on the leaves. Furthermore, high humidity is essential to keeping an areca palm looking its best. The plant will acclimate to normal indoor humidity. But if the air is too dry, it is common for the leaf tips to turn brown.
Fertilizer
The areca palm is a heavy feeder and requires fertilizing from spring to early fall with a liquid fertilizer, following label instructions. Do not feed during the late fall and winter when the plant is dormant.
Propagating Areca Palm
You can propagate areca palm by root division, which will give you a lush plant faster than from seed, but you will not be successful doing so with cuttings. Root division can be done at any time during the year, but the plant will be its strongest in the spring. To divide by root division from a potted areca palm:
Choose a mature plant with multiple stems.
Water well the day before dividing to loosen up the roots from the soil.
Remove the palm from its pot by patting the sides of the container to loosen the root ball.
Shake soil from the roots. Rinse soil from roots so you can see which roots go to which stems.
Choose four to five stems and, with a sharp knife, cut them away from the parent.
Gently place divided stems together in a pot with a 2-to-1 mixture of regular potting soil and coarse sand.
Place the pot in bright and indirect light (not direct sun) and water normally.
How to Grow Areca Palm From Seed
Areca palms can also be planted from seeds. It is unusual to find areca palm seeds at garden centers; however, you can harvest seeds from the fruits that appear after the palm's yellow flowers bloom.
If you propagate with seeds, germinate them at home by planting them slightly covered in a seed-starting mix. The older, orange-colored seeds generally have a better germination rate than the newer, greener seeds. Germination takes about six weeks with soil over 80 degrees Fahrenheit and relatively high humidity. Keep the seed-starting mix moist but not soggy as you wait for germination, and then continue to keep the seedlings moist as well. When the seedlings grow a few leaves, plant them outdoors 3 to 6 feet apart, or plant three to four seedlings to a 12-inch pot to create a bushy look.
Potting and Repotting Areca Palms
Areca palms like a somewhat cramped container with ample drainage holes, and crowded roots will aid in keeping the palm's size in check for growth as a houseplant. However, it's still ideal to repot every other year or so to refresh the potting mix and remove fertilizer salt deposits that have built up in the container. You may use the same pot if the palm's root ball still comfortably fits it. Otherwise, use just one container size up. Replant the palm at the same depth as it was previously.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Areca palms don’t have serious issues with pests or diseases. Occasionally a palm will come down with lethal yellowing, an insect-transmitted bacterial disease that causes fronds and ultimately the whole palm to die. Outdoor palms are generally the ones afflicted with this, and because treatment usually isn’t effective it’s typically best to remove the palm before the disease can spread. Indoor areca palms are vulnerable to common houseplant pests, including mites, aphids, mealybugs, scale, and whiteflies, which can cause foliage damage and discoloration. Treat any infestation as soon as possible.
Common Problems With Areca Palm
Although the plant can be easy to care for, it's prone to one particular issue that happens to both indoor and outdoor areca palms: Keep an eye out for leaf tip burn.
Leaf Tip Burn
Leaf tip burn means the tips and leaves have turned yellow or brown. This can happen from:
Chilled air
Overwatering
Underwatering
Poor soil conditions
Compacted roots
The areca palm is self-cleaning, which means it typically will shed its brown fronds on its own. For an indoor areca palm, it may be best to first amend the soil to make sure it's draining and the roots are not sitting in water. Or, move the pot to a spot with less light and higher humidity before thinking about the last resort of repotting the plant. You can also manually sheer off brown spots to tidy up your indoor or outdoor plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月10日
Anthurium is a genus of around 1,000 species of perennial plants native to Central America, northern South America, and the Caribbean. While they can be grown outdoors in the garden in warm climates, anthurium is more often grown as houseplants by enthusiasts willing to put forth the effort for a plant that can be fussy. Some species are highly prized for their bright, exotic flowers, while others are grown mostly for their foliage.
The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp.
Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Flowers freely
Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12
Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean.
Anthurium Plant Care
Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer.
Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal.
In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on.
Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants.
Light
Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves.
Soil
Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums.
Water
The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again.
Temperature and Humidity
All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less.
In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months.
Fertilizer
It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so.
Propagating Anthuriums
An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks.
Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow.
Potting and Repotting
When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot.
As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium
Common varieties sold as house plants include:
A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike.
A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped.
Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include:
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
Common Pests/ Diseases
These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these.
If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
The flowering varieties of these plants are distinctive for their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. Other varieties feature large-leaved, deeply veined foliage. Many anthuriums are climbers and all need high humidity and warmth to thrive. They tend to thrive in greenhouses, and no type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for indoor, domestic living without a lot of attention and care.
Botanical Name Anthurnium spp.
Common Names Anthurium, tailflower, flamingo flower, laceleaf
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Bright indirect light
Soil Type Coarse, moist potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Flowers freely
Bloom Color Red, pink, or white, with contrasting spadex
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12
Native Area Central America, northern South America, Caribbean.
Anthurium Plant Care
Anthurium plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They do not like exposure to direct sunlight, except in the winter months or in plants that have been carefully acclimated. Wild anthuriums generally live in temperatures at or above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the foliage types prefer temperatures even warmer. If temperatures dip below this level, the plant will suffer.
Potted anthuriums prefer a rich but well-draining potting mix that should be kept moist but not wet. A potting mix tailored for orchids, with a few handfuls of sand and a few handfuls of peat moss mixed in, is ideal.
In natural settings, many anthurium plants are "epiphytic"—they grow on other plants instead of in soil. If your plant fails to support itself, give it a stake or small trellis to climb on.
Repotting should be done whenever the plant fills up its pot with roots.This can occur every year or two, when you see "air roots" begin to extend up above the soil level. This is a sign that the plant can be repotted, which is also a good time to propagate new plants.
Light
Indoors or out, anthuriums grow best in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can burn the leaves.
Soil
Anthuriums prefer a coarse, well-draining potting. An orchid mix with additional sand and peat moss mixed in, makes a perfect potting mix for anthuriums.
Water
The soil should be kept slightly moist and never allowed to dry out completely. Setting the pot in a tray of water-filled gravel will help the plant drain and also help keep humidity levels high. Allow the top of the soil to dry out to the touch before watering again.
Temperature and Humidity
All species of anthurium are native tropical plants and mimicking those conditions will give you the best chances for success. This plant prefers high humidity and temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants can be grown outside only in zones 11 to 12, and will likely perish at temperatures 40 degrees or less.
In dry climates—or during dry winter months—mist the plant daily to keep humidity levels high. You may find it necessary to run a humidifier constantly during dry months.
Fertilizer
It is safe and recommended to use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, and dilute it to half strength to feed the plants every two weeks or so.
Propagating Anthuriums
An easy way to create new anthuriums is by cutting off the "air roots" that grow up above the soil level in the pot, dipping these root pieces in rooting hormone, and burying them in a new pot with fresh potting mix. Roots will start to send up stems and leaves within four to six weeks.
Anthuriums can also be propagated from cuttings. Select a stem at least 6 inches long with two or three sets of leaves. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone, then bury it in potting mix up to the first set of leaves. Water the cutting thoroughly when you plant it, then whenever the soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting each week to provide humidity. The cutting should develop roots within four to six weeks, and new growth shoots will soon follow.
Potting and Repotting
When an anthurium fills up its pot with roots and begins to send up plentiful air roots, it is time to repot. Normally, this is necessary every two years or so. Transfer the plant to a pot that only slightly larger than the old one—no more than 2 inches larger. Fill the pot only about 1/3 full of potting mix, then set the plant onto the soil and lightly pack additional soil around the base, up to the level the plant was buried in its old pot.
As new air roots form above the soil over the following weeks, lightly pack additional potting mix around the exposed roots.
Varieties of Anthurium
Common varieties sold as house plants include:
A. andreanum: These feature heart-shaped leaves that grow up to 1 foot, with flowers available in red, white, pink, and variegated colors. They are distinguished by a straight flower spike.
A. scherzerianum: The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike and the leaves are arrow-shaped.
Anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rarely found outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Other, less common species to consider include:
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
A. crystallinum: These have deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. The leaves grow up to 2 feet across.
A. faustinomirandae: A monster-sized plant with cardboard-stiff leaves that grow up to 5 feet long. This is almost exclusively a greenhouse plant.
Common Pests/ Diseases
These plants are subject to some of the same pests that commonly affect most houseplants: mealybugs, spider mites, whitefly, and scale. Horticultural oils and soaps can be used to treat these.
If dry or drafty locations, the foliage on anthuriums may scorch. In rare cases, fungal rots, blights, or leaf spots may occur.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月08日
Flowering ornamentals are a reminder of a new spring for so many, and Magnolias are some of the best reminders of the new season that we have. Among a genus that is known for its beauty, some species can take your breath away and others just make you want to breathe it all in.
The stunning Japanese native, Anise Magnolia, dazzles your eyes with white, delicate, star-like blossoms that are pre-cursors to the leaves of this deciduous magnolia. The flowers themselves provide enough of a wow factor, but as you come within range of the aroma, you will be surrounded by the mixture of an anise-lemon smell that is intoxicating. Even the bark will provide you with the fragrance when scratched.
To identify anise magnolia, besides the aroma, you can look for the blooms. The flowers are six-sided “petals” called tepals, with a hint of pink at the base. Its flowers blossom from bare branches in the early spring before the leaves unfurl.
The leaves are thin and willow-like, which is where the plant gets its botanical name. Salicifolia is a Latin word meaning willow-leafed. The leaves are unlike most other magnolias, so this is another easy way to identify the tree beside the aroma.
In the late summer, it bears fruits which are interesting to look at even before they ripen to startling red seed pods. They contrast with the dark green of the tree’s leaves. Later, In the fall the leaves turn a shocking golden-yellow before they are shed in the cooler weather. This is when the warming scents of lemon are given off by a scratch and sniff session on the aromatic bark, now unhindered by foliage.
Botanical Name Magnolia salicifolia
Common Name Anise magnolia, Willow Leaf Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 20-30 feet
Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part shade
Soil Type Moist,Well Drained
Soil pH 4.5 -6.5
Bloom Time Early Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4b-9a
Native Range Japan
Anise Magnolia Care
Anise magnolia are relatively easy to grow trees. The biggest concern is finding a suitable place that is somewhat shielded from wind and with moist soil that has adequate drainage. Also, it is a very ornamental tree so consider giving it a spot of prominence that can be seen, admired, and inhaled. Once the perfect spot is selected, you are ready to get your hands dirty and get to planting.
The first thing you will do is dig a hole twice as wide as your tree’s root ball, or container, and just as deep. Gently remove the tree from its burlap or container and set it in the hole making sure to keep it in an upright position as you fill the hole and compress the soil. Lightly mulch to a depth of three inches to the dripline of the tree making sure that no mulch touches the trunk of the tree.
If the tree is far from a water source, make a berm around the mulch to retain water and moisture, and soak the tree thoroughly. Water your magnolia regularly for the first year, until established.
Light
Your anise magnolia can handle full sun if it is watered regularly or is in an area with rich moist soil. If it does not have particularly moist soil, aim to plant it in a spot that gets part shade.
Soil
The soil you use to plant your magnolia is going to be vital to its success and its best to test it for drainage ability.
Dig a hole 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but, this time, see how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil, the water will go down at a rate of about one inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions.
A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and is a yellow flag that you may need to improve drainage with amendments, plant in a bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet soil conditions.
Acidic soil is best, but that can be handled later with amendments if your soil is not up to par. But testing the soil before planting, so you are ahead of the game, might not be a bad idea.
Water
During the first year or so, water your magnolia regularly as it becomes established. After the tree has become established, it should not need extra watering unless your area is experiencing drought conditions or is especially arid.
Temperature and Humidity
Anise magnolias do not do well in particularly cold or hot weather. They are frost hardy but do not like extremes. In summer temperatures they enjoy consistently moist soil, so they thrive with the occasional rainstorm.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Anise in late winter or early spring with a slow-release shrub or tree food that contains sulfur and iron. A second application can be given in late summer.
The anise magnolia is not toxic. The dish has fallen out of favor, but during the colonial era the petals of the magnolia flowers were once eaten. They have a very strong flavor and taste much like they smell.
The preparation was to dilute the flavor by pickling the petals in a brine that was much like a sweet and sour pickle brine. The dried leaves of the magnolia were also commonly used much like the bay leaf to flavor soups, stews, and sauces.
Varieties of Anise Magnolia
The anise magnolia is available in several cultivars and has been used to parent many hybrid magnolias, most famously Magnolia x kewensis ‘Wada’s Memory’. If lemon and anise are not your favorite scent and you prefer orange blossom, then the hybrid might be for you. The flowers are different as well, being larger, more profuse, and having a tulip shape.
The stunning Japanese native, Anise Magnolia, dazzles your eyes with white, delicate, star-like blossoms that are pre-cursors to the leaves of this deciduous magnolia. The flowers themselves provide enough of a wow factor, but as you come within range of the aroma, you will be surrounded by the mixture of an anise-lemon smell that is intoxicating. Even the bark will provide you with the fragrance when scratched.
To identify anise magnolia, besides the aroma, you can look for the blooms. The flowers are six-sided “petals” called tepals, with a hint of pink at the base. Its flowers blossom from bare branches in the early spring before the leaves unfurl.
The leaves are thin and willow-like, which is where the plant gets its botanical name. Salicifolia is a Latin word meaning willow-leafed. The leaves are unlike most other magnolias, so this is another easy way to identify the tree beside the aroma.
In the late summer, it bears fruits which are interesting to look at even before they ripen to startling red seed pods. They contrast with the dark green of the tree’s leaves. Later, In the fall the leaves turn a shocking golden-yellow before they are shed in the cooler weather. This is when the warming scents of lemon are given off by a scratch and sniff session on the aromatic bark, now unhindered by foliage.
Botanical Name Magnolia salicifolia
Common Name Anise magnolia, Willow Leaf Magnolia
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 20-30 feet
Sun Exposure Full Sun to Part shade
Soil Type Moist,Well Drained
Soil pH 4.5 -6.5
Bloom Time Early Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 4b-9a
Native Range Japan
Anise Magnolia Care
Anise magnolia are relatively easy to grow trees. The biggest concern is finding a suitable place that is somewhat shielded from wind and with moist soil that has adequate drainage. Also, it is a very ornamental tree so consider giving it a spot of prominence that can be seen, admired, and inhaled. Once the perfect spot is selected, you are ready to get your hands dirty and get to planting.
The first thing you will do is dig a hole twice as wide as your tree’s root ball, or container, and just as deep. Gently remove the tree from its burlap or container and set it in the hole making sure to keep it in an upright position as you fill the hole and compress the soil. Lightly mulch to a depth of three inches to the dripline of the tree making sure that no mulch touches the trunk of the tree.
If the tree is far from a water source, make a berm around the mulch to retain water and moisture, and soak the tree thoroughly. Water your magnolia regularly for the first year, until established.
Light
Your anise magnolia can handle full sun if it is watered regularly or is in an area with rich moist soil. If it does not have particularly moist soil, aim to plant it in a spot that gets part shade.
Soil
The soil you use to plant your magnolia is going to be vital to its success and its best to test it for drainage ability.
Dig a hole 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep in the planting area. Fill the hole with water and let it drain. Then, after it drains, fill it with water again, but, this time, see how long it takes to drain. In well-drained soil, the water will go down at a rate of about one inch an hour. A faster rate, such as in loose, sandy soil, may signal potentially dry site conditions.
A slower rate indicates poor draining soil and is a yellow flag that you may need to improve drainage with amendments, plant in a bed, or look for plants that are more tolerant of wet soil conditions.
Acidic soil is best, but that can be handled later with amendments if your soil is not up to par. But testing the soil before planting, so you are ahead of the game, might not be a bad idea.
Water
During the first year or so, water your magnolia regularly as it becomes established. After the tree has become established, it should not need extra watering unless your area is experiencing drought conditions or is especially arid.
Temperature and Humidity
Anise magnolias do not do well in particularly cold or hot weather. They are frost hardy but do not like extremes. In summer temperatures they enjoy consistently moist soil, so they thrive with the occasional rainstorm.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Anise in late winter or early spring with a slow-release shrub or tree food that contains sulfur and iron. A second application can be given in late summer.
The anise magnolia is not toxic. The dish has fallen out of favor, but during the colonial era the petals of the magnolia flowers were once eaten. They have a very strong flavor and taste much like they smell.
The preparation was to dilute the flavor by pickling the petals in a brine that was much like a sweet and sour pickle brine. The dried leaves of the magnolia were also commonly used much like the bay leaf to flavor soups, stews, and sauces.
Varieties of Anise Magnolia
The anise magnolia is available in several cultivars and has been used to parent many hybrid magnolias, most famously Magnolia x kewensis ‘Wada’s Memory’. If lemon and anise are not your favorite scent and you prefer orange blossom, then the hybrid might be for you. The flowers are different as well, being larger, more profuse, and having a tulip shape.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月01日
The common name "anemone" is a collective label used for a number of different species in the Anemone genus of plants. Many gardeners know the plants as windflowers, so named because the delicate poppy-like flowers sway in the lightest breezes. (The Greek word "anemos" translates as "wind.") Gardeners who love the look of the exotic Himalayan blue poppy but are unsuccessful in growing it should try the much more forgiving anemone flower.
The flowers of these spring- or fall-blooming plants are a hot trend in wedding bouquets, and also make the garden come alive in vibrant red, white, pink, yellow, and purple shades. Anemone flowers have a simple, daisy-like shape and lobed foliage. Some anemone varieties feature double flowers, similar to a frilly, oversized mum.
The Ranunculaceae family in which the anemone genus fits is a generous contributor to flower gardens. In addition to the Anemone, other members of the family include delphinium, clematis, and ranunculus.
Botanical Name Anemone spp.
Common Names Anemone, windflower, Grecian windflower, poppy windflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 inches to 4 feet (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, moist soil
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral); varies by species
Bloom Time Spring, fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow-green, blue, purple, red-purple, white, ivory, and pink
Hardiness Zones 5 to 10 (USDA); varies by species
Native Area Temperate zones worldwide; many species are native to North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
How to Grow Anemones
Choose your planting time based on the blooming cycle of your chosen species. Plant spring bloomers in the fall, and fall bloomers in the spring. Different species of anemones have different types of root structures, and the planting method varies a bit from type to type. Normally, anemones are planted from bare rootstocks purchased from online or mail-order retailers.
Some species, such as A. coronaria (often known as poppy anemone) have roots that resemble bulb-like corms. The small corms are planted in groups, like tulips or daffodils. Place them in clusters spaces about 1 inch apart, 2 inches deep. Let nature dictate the spreading of the cluster. With corm-types, leave the foliage in place to replenish the corms until it turns brown
Other species, including A. blanda (sometimes known as Grecian windflower) have tuberous or rhizomatous roots that are planted like dahlia or tuberous iris roots, in small groups 3 to 6 inches deep. It helps to soak the dried tubers in water overnight to soften them before planting.
Whatever the species of Anemone, these plants generally like at least four hours of sun each day and well-drained soil that is relatively moist. Once planted, they are relatively care-free plants. Those types with rhizomatous roots will need to be lifted and divided every three years or so. When foliage turns brown in late fall, cut it away to ground level.
Light
Anemones should be placed where they can receive at least half a day of sunlight. Some varieties thrive more in partial shade.
Soil
Plant anemones in well-drained soil. Before planting, you can improve the soil by adding compost, leaf mold, or other organic matter. Anemones aren't fussy about soil pH, but will thrive best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Water the plants regularly when it does not rain. Try to keep the soil lightly moist. Water slowly, allowing the soil to absorb as much water as possible. Some varieties have special water needs; for example, wood anemone (A. nemorosa) dies to the ground in midsummer and does not need water until it regrows in fall.
Temperature and Humidity
The recommended temperatures for growing anemones is 58 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 42 to 50 degrees at night. For some species, the optimum temperature for efficient flower initiation may be lower than 54 degrees.
Fertilizer
If desired, you can add some bone meal to the soil in the fall for spring bloomers or in the spring for fall bloomers to give the bulbs a nutrient boost.
Pruning
The fading foliage of spring bloomers is usually insignificant enough to wither away unnoticed, so you will not need to prune it for a tidy looking garden. Taller fall-blooming varieties may look shabby after the first frost, so shear off dead growth during early winter clean up.
Propagating Anemones
Though the different species of anemones have different root structures, all can be propagated by digging up the corms/ tubers, dividing them into pieces, then replanting. A common practice is to routinely dig up and divide the roots in the fall, then store them over winter for spring replanting. Make sure to inspect the roots and discard any that are diseased or soft with rot. Lifting the roots in fall for winter storage can be a good idea if your garden experiences wet soil over the winter.
Unlike many bulbs that have a distinct shape that indicates how you should orient them in the planting hole, anemones corms/tubers are lumpy and irregular. They will grow properly no matter how you orient them in the ground. If you have stored the roots over winter, it's a good idea to soak them overnight before planting.
Be generous when you plant the petite spring anemones; these low-growing plants that range from 3 to 15 inches in height look best when planted in groups of 50 or more.
Varieties of Anemone
There are several good species of Anemone available, each with several named cultivars to choose from:
Anemone blanda adapts well outdoors and is hardy in zones 5 through 9. This plant is sometimes known as Grecian windflower.
Anemone coronaria, has poppy-like blooms with black centers. These are popular in floral arrangements. This species, sometimes known as poppy anemone, is reliably hardy only in zones 8 through 10.
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica, the Japanese anemone, blooms abundantly from mid-summer to late fall, giving gardeners a shade-loving alternative to the sun-drenched mums and asters of autumn. It is grown in zones 4 to 8.
Anemone sylvestris (sometimes known as snowdrop windflower) is an early spring bloomer that does not have time to attain great heights; it belongs at the front of the border. You can grow it in zones 4 to 8.
Landscape Uses
Plant several dozen spring-blooming anemones around your tulips and daffodils, or plant large drifts of anemones in wooded areas, where they can naturalize undisturbed. Place your spring-blooming anemones near the front of your borders or at the edges of paths, and do not worry about browsing deer, which generally find this flower unpalatable. Fall-blooming anemones are good for filling in gaps between mounding chrysanthemum plants.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Although there are no truly serious pest or disease problems with Anemones, they can be stricken with foliar nematodes that feed inside the leaves. These microscopic soil worms can cause distorted leaves and flowers through damage to the plant cells. Treatment is difficult, but removing plants and heating the soil through solarization sometimes gets rid of nematodes. All plant material in the afflicted area will need to be removed and disposed of. Periodically churning up the soil and allowing it to bake in the sun may rid the area of nematodes.
A variety of fungal leaf spots, down mildew, and powdery mildew may appear on Anemones, though the diseases are rarely serious.
Taller Anemones may need to be staked to prevent them from flopping, especially when grown in shady areas.
The flowers of these spring- or fall-blooming plants are a hot trend in wedding bouquets, and also make the garden come alive in vibrant red, white, pink, yellow, and purple shades. Anemone flowers have a simple, daisy-like shape and lobed foliage. Some anemone varieties feature double flowers, similar to a frilly, oversized mum.
The Ranunculaceae family in which the anemone genus fits is a generous contributor to flower gardens. In addition to the Anemone, other members of the family include delphinium, clematis, and ranunculus.
Botanical Name Anemone spp.
Common Names Anemone, windflower, Grecian windflower, poppy windflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 inches to 4 feet (depends on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, moist soil
Soil pH 5.6 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral); varies by species
Bloom Time Spring, fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow-green, blue, purple, red-purple, white, ivory, and pink
Hardiness Zones 5 to 10 (USDA); varies by species
Native Area Temperate zones worldwide; many species are native to North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, toxic to pets
How to Grow Anemones
Choose your planting time based on the blooming cycle of your chosen species. Plant spring bloomers in the fall, and fall bloomers in the spring. Different species of anemones have different types of root structures, and the planting method varies a bit from type to type. Normally, anemones are planted from bare rootstocks purchased from online or mail-order retailers.
Some species, such as A. coronaria (often known as poppy anemone) have roots that resemble bulb-like corms. The small corms are planted in groups, like tulips or daffodils. Place them in clusters spaces about 1 inch apart, 2 inches deep. Let nature dictate the spreading of the cluster. With corm-types, leave the foliage in place to replenish the corms until it turns brown
Other species, including A. blanda (sometimes known as Grecian windflower) have tuberous or rhizomatous roots that are planted like dahlia or tuberous iris roots, in small groups 3 to 6 inches deep. It helps to soak the dried tubers in water overnight to soften them before planting.
Whatever the species of Anemone, these plants generally like at least four hours of sun each day and well-drained soil that is relatively moist. Once planted, they are relatively care-free plants. Those types with rhizomatous roots will need to be lifted and divided every three years or so. When foliage turns brown in late fall, cut it away to ground level.
Light
Anemones should be placed where they can receive at least half a day of sunlight. Some varieties thrive more in partial shade.
Soil
Plant anemones in well-drained soil. Before planting, you can improve the soil by adding compost, leaf mold, or other organic matter. Anemones aren't fussy about soil pH, but will thrive best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Water the plants regularly when it does not rain. Try to keep the soil lightly moist. Water slowly, allowing the soil to absorb as much water as possible. Some varieties have special water needs; for example, wood anemone (A. nemorosa) dies to the ground in midsummer and does not need water until it regrows in fall.
Temperature and Humidity
The recommended temperatures for growing anemones is 58 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 42 to 50 degrees at night. For some species, the optimum temperature for efficient flower initiation may be lower than 54 degrees.
Fertilizer
If desired, you can add some bone meal to the soil in the fall for spring bloomers or in the spring for fall bloomers to give the bulbs a nutrient boost.
Pruning
The fading foliage of spring bloomers is usually insignificant enough to wither away unnoticed, so you will not need to prune it for a tidy looking garden. Taller fall-blooming varieties may look shabby after the first frost, so shear off dead growth during early winter clean up.
Propagating Anemones
Though the different species of anemones have different root structures, all can be propagated by digging up the corms/ tubers, dividing them into pieces, then replanting. A common practice is to routinely dig up and divide the roots in the fall, then store them over winter for spring replanting. Make sure to inspect the roots and discard any that are diseased or soft with rot. Lifting the roots in fall for winter storage can be a good idea if your garden experiences wet soil over the winter.
Unlike many bulbs that have a distinct shape that indicates how you should orient them in the planting hole, anemones corms/tubers are lumpy and irregular. They will grow properly no matter how you orient them in the ground. If you have stored the roots over winter, it's a good idea to soak them overnight before planting.
Be generous when you plant the petite spring anemones; these low-growing plants that range from 3 to 15 inches in height look best when planted in groups of 50 or more.
Varieties of Anemone
There are several good species of Anemone available, each with several named cultivars to choose from:
Anemone blanda adapts well outdoors and is hardy in zones 5 through 9. This plant is sometimes known as Grecian windflower.
Anemone coronaria, has poppy-like blooms with black centers. These are popular in floral arrangements. This species, sometimes known as poppy anemone, is reliably hardy only in zones 8 through 10.
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica, the Japanese anemone, blooms abundantly from mid-summer to late fall, giving gardeners a shade-loving alternative to the sun-drenched mums and asters of autumn. It is grown in zones 4 to 8.
Anemone sylvestris (sometimes known as snowdrop windflower) is an early spring bloomer that does not have time to attain great heights; it belongs at the front of the border. You can grow it in zones 4 to 8.
Landscape Uses
Plant several dozen spring-blooming anemones around your tulips and daffodils, or plant large drifts of anemones in wooded areas, where they can naturalize undisturbed. Place your spring-blooming anemones near the front of your borders or at the edges of paths, and do not worry about browsing deer, which generally find this flower unpalatable. Fall-blooming anemones are good for filling in gaps between mounding chrysanthemum plants.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Although there are no truly serious pest or disease problems with Anemones, they can be stricken with foliar nematodes that feed inside the leaves. These microscopic soil worms can cause distorted leaves and flowers through damage to the plant cells. Treatment is difficult, but removing plants and heating the soil through solarization sometimes gets rid of nematodes. All plant material in the afflicted area will need to be removed and disposed of. Periodically churning up the soil and allowing it to bake in the sun may rid the area of nematodes.
A variety of fungal leaf spots, down mildew, and powdery mildew may appear on Anemones, though the diseases are rarely serious.
Taller Anemones may need to be staked to prevent them from flopping, especially when grown in shady areas.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月23日
The giant amaryllis flowers commonly grown as winter-blooming houseplants are generally carefully bred hybrids derived from various species in the Hippeastrum genus, a group of tropical plants from Central and South America. These plants have strappy leaves and huge flowers shaped like trumpet lilies. The blooms are typically are a deep red, pink, white, or blend of these colors. You can expect your amaryllis to bloom for seven weeks or longer.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
There is also a true amaryllis genus containing just two species native to South Africa. These are not, however, the plants cultivated in the U.S. as amaryllis.
Controlling Bloom Time
If grown in a frost-free garden (zones 8 to 10), amaryllis will naturally bloom in March, April, and May, with fall rebloom possible. But amaryllis bulbs are often purchased to grow as potted plants for holiday bloom, which is only possible if you plant the dormant bulbs at precisely the right time—about 10 to 12 weeks before desired bloom time. When you buy commercial bulbs from a grower for Christmas bloom, these are dormant bulbs that should be kept cool until the right planting time.
If you already have potted amaryllis plants, future blooms can be controlled by setting the plant outdoors to grow through the summer, then bringing it indoors and forcing them into a short period of dormancy by withholding water and fertilizer for several weeks, then restarting the bulbs.
Botanical Name Hippeastrum (Group)
Common Name Amaryllis
Plant Type Perennial bulb
Mature Size 1 to 2 feet tall; 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained soil (outdoors); rich potting mix (indoors)
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer
Flower Color Red, pink, white with spots and bands
Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 (USDA)
Native Area Central and South America
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Amaryllis Care
The techniques for growing amaryllis vary, depending on whether you're growing it indoors or outdoors, and when you want it to bloom.
As a New Indoor Plant for Seasonal Blooms
Partially fill a 5- to 7-inch pot with a good-quality, well-draining potting mix, then plant the amaryllis bulb so the top one-third is exposed when you fill in the rest of the pot with potting mix. The bulbs should be planted 10 to 12 weeks before you want them to bloom.
Place a bamboo stalk alongside the bulb. The flowers can get top-heavy, and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging the bulb and roots later.
Water well, then place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet. A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures. Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.
Forcing an Existing Plant Into Holiday Bloom
To force a potted amaryllis to bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to continue growing. You can place your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade. Keep the watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding in August. When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry spot, and stop watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, count backward about 10 to 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering.
The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly followed by blooms. When the flowers fade, start the process over.
Allowing Potted Plants to Re-bloom Naturally
To allow your potted amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out. Keep the plant watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.
Stop feeding the plant in August. Bring it indoors before a frost hits it and place the pot in a cool spot in indirect, bright light. The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flower stalks should appear in a month or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will appear shortly, followed by blooms.
When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally in this way will result in larger plants and flowers.
As a Garden Plant
In zones 8 to 10, amaryllis bulbs can be planted in the garden. If your area is entirely frost-free, plant the bulbs with their necks at, or slightly above, ground level. In areas where frost is possible, set the bulbs with 5 to 6 inches of soil above them, followed by 5 to 6 inches of mulch. Water thoroughly after planting, but then water only when the top 2 inches of soil is dry.
After leaves appear, feed with a balanced fertilizer once each month until April. Garden amaryllis generally bloom in March, April, and May. When flowering is complete, remove the flower stalks, but leave the foliage to continue growing. If any leaves turn yellow, cut them off.
From June to September, water the plants only during dry periods. In fall, apply a layer of winter mulch if your area will see winter frost. The plants typically go dormant over winter.
Light
Amaryllis will grow in full sun to part shade conditions. Outdoors, bright shade is the best environment. Grown as potted plants indoors, they prefer morning sun but bright shade in the afternoon.
Soil
Outdoors, grow amaryllis bulbs in well-drained, fertile soil. When growing potted bulbs, use a good-quality, well-draining sandy loam potting mix.
Water
During the growing/ flowering period, water your amaryllis whenever the top 2 inches of soil become dry. Amaryllis requires a dry rest period immediately after flowering in order to reset the bulbs for future blooms. Forcing amaryllis into seasonal bloom requires careful manipulation of the watering schedule (see above).
Temperature and Humidity
Amaryllis are tropical plants that prefer warm temperatures. Outdoors, they are hardy to zone 8, and zone 7 gardeners can sometimes overwinter them in the garden if the ground is heavily mulched.
Fertilizer
During the growth period, feed your amaryllis with a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer every two to three weeks. After flowering, withhold feeding to induce the dormancy needed to reset the bulbs.
Varieties of Amaryllis
There are dozens of different amaryllis varieties, and the choice really depends on what flower color most appeals to you. Some recommended choices include:
'Samba': This variety has large red ruffled blooms with white markings.
'Apple Blossom': This popular variety has blooms that mix pink and white, with green throats.
'Faro': This plant has delicate flowers in pale salmon and white. The blooms are smaller and more delicate than with most varieties.
'Summertime': This plant has large 7-inch blooms in a unique watermelon pink to dark rose hue, with greenish centers.
'Matterhorn': This is a good choice for a pure white amaryllis. The throats are yellow-green.
Pruning
When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You can move the amaryllis outdoors for the summer, placing it in a part-shade location.
Propagating Amaryllis
Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot them up to produce more plants. Give them a few seasons of growth before expecting flowers.
Common Pests and Diseases
Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealybugs, which can be treated with horticultural oil. Outdoor plants may be feasted upon by slugs and snails.
If your amaryllis doesn't bloom, it is often because it received no rest period after the last bloom, or because it is not receiving adequate light.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月21日
The Amaranthus genus is a complicated one, featuring at least 75 annual and perennial species that easily cross-breed and hybridize. Today, most gardeners are familiar with the species as ornamental plants, and many don't even realize that amaranths are also edible plants that can be grown for their grain-like seeds and edible leaves. In fact, this was once the primary reason amaranth served as a staple in home cottage gardens. Historically, the use of amaranth as an ornamental plant is a relatively recent development.
Edible amaranth is often grown for the plentiful tiny seeds that hang in tassels from the top of the plant after the attractive red flowers fade. The bulk seed is used as a "grain" in porridges or added as a thickener to soups and stews. The seeds are extremely nutritious and protein-packed, with a slightly nutty flavor. You can also use the leaves of amaranth as a leafy vegetable; the taste is similar to spinach and it can be used in the same way as many other leafy vegetables, especially in mixed-green salads.
If consumption is the goal, choose annual amaranth varieties marketed as edibles. Nearly all amaranths are edible, including love-lies-bleeding and even the common road-side weedy forms. But those sold as edible varieties are selected for their good seed production and especially tasty leaves.
Amaranth is native to North America and Central America, and is usually planted from seed as soon as the last frost has passed in the spring. If you are eager for early harvest, you can start the seeds indoors as much as eight weeks earlier. If you want to harvest the plants for seeds, it will take about 12 weeks for the plants to reach full maturity. Leaves can be harvested within a few weeks of outdoor planting.
Botanical Name Amaranthus
Common Names Amaranth, amaranthus, pigweed
Plant Type Herbaceous annual
Mature Size 2–5 ft. tall, 1-2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall, early winter
Flower Color Red, burgundy, pink, orange, green
Hardiness Zones 2-11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Non-toxic
Amaranth Care
Amaranth grows well in any average well-drained soil, and you should make sure the site you choose has good drainage and air circulation. To ensure continued production, it's a good idea to stagger planting every two to three weeks, beginning a week or two after the last frost date in your region.
While amaranth plants are tall, they aren’t necessarily wide or bushy, so you can get away with planting them 10 to 18 inches apart. The closer you can get them, the better they look once fully grown. At the same time, they need enough space to provide good air circulation.
Light
Amaranth does best in full sun in the northern part of its range, but in warm southern climates, it can benefit from some shade in the afternoon. Generally, aim to give your plant at least six hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Amaranth grows well in average soils and will even grow adequately in poor soils. Only dense clay mixtures are likely to be completely unsuitable for amaranth, though very rich soils may hinder flowering and seed production.
Water
Amaranth plants have average needs for water, requiring no more than 1 inch per week. Take care not to overwater your plant, or you run the risk of root rot or fungal diseases.
Temperature and Humidity
Unlike other leafy green vegetables, amaranth is fairly happy in the heat. Many species are native to the southern U.S. and Mexico, so you can expect them to thrive even when the temperatures are unusually warm.
Fertilizer
Amaranth doesn't require any additional feeding. In fact, excessive nitrogen (often found in fertilizers) can cause the plants to become leggy and less suitable for harvesting.
Amaranth Varieties
Varieties of amaranth can range from giants topping 8 feet tall, to smaller 1- to 2-foot plants better suited for leaf harvest only. You should cultivate larger plants specifically grown for their seeds if you want the amaranth grain. Some popular varieties include:
Red-leaf amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor): This varietal has especially nutritious foliage that tastes like slightly tangy spinach. 'Molten Fire' and 'Joseph's Coat' are popular cultivars of this species.
‘Burgundy’ (A. hypochondriacus): Stunning purple leaves, red flowers, and white seeds adorn this varietal.
‘Hopi Red Dye’ (A. cruentus): An heirloom species, it produces excellent protein-rich black seeds.
Propagating Amaranth
Thanks to their plentiful seeds, amaranth plants will readily self-seed in the garden. As they sprout in spring, the volunteers can be thinned out to about 10 to 18 inches apart, or carefully dug up and transplanted elsewhere. It's also possible to collect some of the seeds in the fall and replant them the following spring. Be aware, though, that if the original plants were hybrids, the volunteer seedlings may not "come true" and can look different than the parent plant.
How to Grow Amaranth From Seed
When planting amaranth outdoors, sow seeds about 4 inches apart, barely covering them with soil. Germination generally takes seven to 14 days. As they sprout, thin the plants out to a spacing of 10 to 18 inches.
If starting seeds indoors, you can use a general seed-starting mix and make sure to harden off the seedlings before transplanting them outdoors. The average outdoor temperature needs to reach about 55 degrees Fahrenheit before you can successfully plant the seedlings outdoors.
Harvesting Amaranth
You can harvest both the leaves and grains from any amaranth, but if your goal is an edible plant, choose a variety specialized for that. Some types of amaranth are marketed as best for seed production, while others are bred for their attractive, tasty leaves. Regardless of your cultivar, amaranth leaves can be harvested at any point. Small leaves are more tender, but the larger leaves boast a fuller flavor. Large size and heat won’t turn amaranth leaves bitter, as often occurs with other leafy greens, so you can harvest at any point throughout the season.
When harvesting the plant's leaves, make sure to leave the crown intact, as well as some leaves around the top, so the plant can continue to grow. Alternately, you can also cut the whole plant off at ground level when it is between 1 and 2 feet tall. It’s possible that it will resprout for another harvest, though you do risk introducing pests to the open stem.
To harvest amaranth grains, let the plant go all the way to flower. Keep an eye on the flowers as they bloom and begin to die back. Before they all turn brown, cut the flowers off and place them in bags, where they will dry. Shake the bag once they are dry, or knock the seeds loose over a cloth. Rinse away the dried seed “chaff” and enjoy your grain harvest. Amaranth is especially good in a porridge that also contains other grains, like millet and quinoa.
Common Pests/Diseases
Amaranth can fall prey to many of the same pests and diseases that affect other vegetables. Aphids and flea beetles are common; insecticidal soaps are a good remedy for the former, and floating row covers will protect the plants from the latter. Avoid using commercial pesticides with a "wait to pick" or any other type of warning regarding consumption. Many of these types of pesticides are broad-spectrum, designed to eliminate multiple insects, and may contain ingredients that aren't meant to be ingested by humans.
Root rot can also be a problem in wet, dense soil or in periods where rainfalls are frequent and copious. Once root rot occurs, the plant must be removed. Your best defense against the issue is maintaining well-draining soil and not overwatering the plant.
Edible amaranth is often grown for the plentiful tiny seeds that hang in tassels from the top of the plant after the attractive red flowers fade. The bulk seed is used as a "grain" in porridges or added as a thickener to soups and stews. The seeds are extremely nutritious and protein-packed, with a slightly nutty flavor. You can also use the leaves of amaranth as a leafy vegetable; the taste is similar to spinach and it can be used in the same way as many other leafy vegetables, especially in mixed-green salads.
If consumption is the goal, choose annual amaranth varieties marketed as edibles. Nearly all amaranths are edible, including love-lies-bleeding and even the common road-side weedy forms. But those sold as edible varieties are selected for their good seed production and especially tasty leaves.
Amaranth is native to North America and Central America, and is usually planted from seed as soon as the last frost has passed in the spring. If you are eager for early harvest, you can start the seeds indoors as much as eight weeks earlier. If you want to harvest the plants for seeds, it will take about 12 weeks for the plants to reach full maturity. Leaves can be harvested within a few weeks of outdoor planting.
Botanical Name Amaranthus
Common Names Amaranth, amaranthus, pigweed
Plant Type Herbaceous annual
Mature Size 2–5 ft. tall, 1-2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall, early winter
Flower Color Red, burgundy, pink, orange, green
Hardiness Zones 2-11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Non-toxic
Amaranth Care
Amaranth grows well in any average well-drained soil, and you should make sure the site you choose has good drainage and air circulation. To ensure continued production, it's a good idea to stagger planting every two to three weeks, beginning a week or two after the last frost date in your region.
While amaranth plants are tall, they aren’t necessarily wide or bushy, so you can get away with planting them 10 to 18 inches apart. The closer you can get them, the better they look once fully grown. At the same time, they need enough space to provide good air circulation.
Light
Amaranth does best in full sun in the northern part of its range, but in warm southern climates, it can benefit from some shade in the afternoon. Generally, aim to give your plant at least six hours of sunlight a day.
Soil
Amaranth grows well in average soils and will even grow adequately in poor soils. Only dense clay mixtures are likely to be completely unsuitable for amaranth, though very rich soils may hinder flowering and seed production.
Water
Amaranth plants have average needs for water, requiring no more than 1 inch per week. Take care not to overwater your plant, or you run the risk of root rot or fungal diseases.
Temperature and Humidity
Unlike other leafy green vegetables, amaranth is fairly happy in the heat. Many species are native to the southern U.S. and Mexico, so you can expect them to thrive even when the temperatures are unusually warm.
Fertilizer
Amaranth doesn't require any additional feeding. In fact, excessive nitrogen (often found in fertilizers) can cause the plants to become leggy and less suitable for harvesting.
Amaranth Varieties
Varieties of amaranth can range from giants topping 8 feet tall, to smaller 1- to 2-foot plants better suited for leaf harvest only. You should cultivate larger plants specifically grown for their seeds if you want the amaranth grain. Some popular varieties include:
Red-leaf amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor): This varietal has especially nutritious foliage that tastes like slightly tangy spinach. 'Molten Fire' and 'Joseph's Coat' are popular cultivars of this species.
‘Burgundy’ (A. hypochondriacus): Stunning purple leaves, red flowers, and white seeds adorn this varietal.
‘Hopi Red Dye’ (A. cruentus): An heirloom species, it produces excellent protein-rich black seeds.
Propagating Amaranth
Thanks to their plentiful seeds, amaranth plants will readily self-seed in the garden. As they sprout in spring, the volunteers can be thinned out to about 10 to 18 inches apart, or carefully dug up and transplanted elsewhere. It's also possible to collect some of the seeds in the fall and replant them the following spring. Be aware, though, that if the original plants were hybrids, the volunteer seedlings may not "come true" and can look different than the parent plant.
How to Grow Amaranth From Seed
When planting amaranth outdoors, sow seeds about 4 inches apart, barely covering them with soil. Germination generally takes seven to 14 days. As they sprout, thin the plants out to a spacing of 10 to 18 inches.
If starting seeds indoors, you can use a general seed-starting mix and make sure to harden off the seedlings before transplanting them outdoors. The average outdoor temperature needs to reach about 55 degrees Fahrenheit before you can successfully plant the seedlings outdoors.
Harvesting Amaranth
You can harvest both the leaves and grains from any amaranth, but if your goal is an edible plant, choose a variety specialized for that. Some types of amaranth are marketed as best for seed production, while others are bred for their attractive, tasty leaves. Regardless of your cultivar, amaranth leaves can be harvested at any point. Small leaves are more tender, but the larger leaves boast a fuller flavor. Large size and heat won’t turn amaranth leaves bitter, as often occurs with other leafy greens, so you can harvest at any point throughout the season.
When harvesting the plant's leaves, make sure to leave the crown intact, as well as some leaves around the top, so the plant can continue to grow. Alternately, you can also cut the whole plant off at ground level when it is between 1 and 2 feet tall. It’s possible that it will resprout for another harvest, though you do risk introducing pests to the open stem.
To harvest amaranth grains, let the plant go all the way to flower. Keep an eye on the flowers as they bloom and begin to die back. Before they all turn brown, cut the flowers off and place them in bags, where they will dry. Shake the bag once they are dry, or knock the seeds loose over a cloth. Rinse away the dried seed “chaff” and enjoy your grain harvest. Amaranth is especially good in a porridge that also contains other grains, like millet and quinoa.
Common Pests/Diseases
Amaranth can fall prey to many of the same pests and diseases that affect other vegetables. Aphids and flea beetles are common; insecticidal soaps are a good remedy for the former, and floating row covers will protect the plants from the latter. Avoid using commercial pesticides with a "wait to pick" or any other type of warning regarding consumption. Many of these types of pesticides are broad-spectrum, designed to eliminate multiple insects, and may contain ingredients that aren't meant to be ingested by humans.
Root rot can also be a problem in wet, dense soil or in periods where rainfalls are frequent and copious. Once root rot occurs, the plant must be removed. Your best defense against the issue is maintaining well-draining soil and not overwatering the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月11日
Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans), also called common bugleweed, is a fast-growing herbaceous perennial ground cover (the species name reptans means "creeping"). Although it produces beautiful flower spikes and is available in several different cultivars that work well in landscaping, it can also make quite a nuisance of itself through its aggressive spreading via underground runners (called stolens). However, there are a few situations in which its good qualities will be enough reason for some gardeners to grow it.
Bugleweed excels at filling in large, shady areas where lawns are difficult to grow, and it can work well on banks or slopes or planted around trees and shrubs. It forms a dense mat that will choke out weeds, and it is known to be fairly deer-resistant. It is so tough that it can even grow under black walnut trees (Juglans nigra), which produces a chemical that discourages most plants. However, avoid planting bugleweed near lawn areas because it can quickly spread into turf grass.
Bugleweed has shiny, dark green leaves and produces blue, violet, or purple flower spikes in mid- to late-spring that can reach 8 to 10 inches tall, although the flower spikes on some cultivars are shorter. Several cultivars offer variegated foliage colors and patterns.
Botanical Name Ajuga reptans
Common Name Bugleweed, common bugleweed, ajuga, carpet bugle, blue bugle, carpetweed, carpenter's herb
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium-moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 3.7 to 6.5
Bloom Time May to June
Flower Color Blue, violet
Hardiness Zones 3 to 10
Native Area Europe, northern Africa, southwestern Asia
How to Grow Bugleweed
Plant bugleweed in an area where air circulation is good, spacing the plants about 1 foot apart. Cut off the flower spikes in late summer after the flowers have faded. To shear back a large area of bugleweed, use a lawnmower set to a high blade height. To keep the plant under control, rigorously prune runners twice a year. Be sure to remove any runners escaping the desired planting area.
If the planting area becomes crowded, thin out the plants in the fall by digging up the entire clump and replanting half of the roots. Water thoroughly after replanting.
Because bugleweed spreads aggressively via runners, that fact should alert you to its potential to be invasive. To control it in your planting beds, you'll have to be faithful about pulling it out from where it doesn't belong. If you're not vigilant about controlling it, it will soon gain a toehold and become a pest.
Light
Bugleweed does well in full sun to part shade locations. Foliage color is most vibrant when the plant receives at least three to four hours of sunlight daily.
Soil
Bugleweed prefers medium moisture, well-drained soils with a good amount of organic matter. It will tolerate moderately dry soil. In the South, watch out for crown rot, also called "Southern blight," which is caused by a fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii).1 You can help prevent crown rot by assuring the soil drains well.
Water
Water bugleweed weekly while plants are getting established, then once every two to three weeks when they're established. Water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil become dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Bugleweed does well in a wide range of temperatures, but in very hot, humid areas, it requires good air circulation to prevent crown rot.
Fertilizer
Feeding is rarely necessary unless the plant is growing in poor soil. When it is needed, apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Or, use a water-soluble fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Morning feeding is best, and make sure to rinse off any fertilizer granules from the leaves.
Propagating Bugleweed
Ajuga is one of the easiest plants to propagate. It spreads by underground runners that form clumps surrounding the parent plant. At the point where these clumps begin to get crowded, you can dig them up and transplant them. This is best done in spring or fall when there is no chance of frost.
Dig up the entire mother plant and surrounding clumps, then separate them by hand or with a knife. Discard brown or withered clumps, and plant the individual plants in new locations.
Varieties of Bugleweed
A. reptans 'Atropurpureum' has bronze-purple foliage.
A. reptans 'Chocolate Chip' has darker leaves than the species plant, including a hint of chocolate brown.
A. reptans 'Burgundy Glow' has burgundy tri-colored variegated foliage (white, pink, and green).
A. reptans 'Dixie Chip' is another variety with tri-color variegated foliage (creamy-white, deep-rose, and green) and produces a mat 2 to 4 inches tall.
A. reptans 'Black Scallop' has perhaps the darkest foliage of all cultivars with almost-black, scalloped leaves and deep blue flower spikes. It produces a mat 3 to 6 inches tall. The darkest foliage color is achieved when plants are located in full sun.
Growing From Seed
Start bugleweed seed indoors in pots filled with a seed-starter mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost; they will sprout within a month. When the seedlings are viable, pot them up into larger containers. Once robust, transplant the seedlings into the garden.
Bugleweed excels at filling in large, shady areas where lawns are difficult to grow, and it can work well on banks or slopes or planted around trees and shrubs. It forms a dense mat that will choke out weeds, and it is known to be fairly deer-resistant. It is so tough that it can even grow under black walnut trees (Juglans nigra), which produces a chemical that discourages most plants. However, avoid planting bugleweed near lawn areas because it can quickly spread into turf grass.
Bugleweed has shiny, dark green leaves and produces blue, violet, or purple flower spikes in mid- to late-spring that can reach 8 to 10 inches tall, although the flower spikes on some cultivars are shorter. Several cultivars offer variegated foliage colors and patterns.
Botanical Name Ajuga reptans
Common Name Bugleweed, common bugleweed, ajuga, carpet bugle, blue bugle, carpetweed, carpenter's herb
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 to 9 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium-moisture, well-drained
Soil pH 3.7 to 6.5
Bloom Time May to June
Flower Color Blue, violet
Hardiness Zones 3 to 10
Native Area Europe, northern Africa, southwestern Asia
How to Grow Bugleweed
Plant bugleweed in an area where air circulation is good, spacing the plants about 1 foot apart. Cut off the flower spikes in late summer after the flowers have faded. To shear back a large area of bugleweed, use a lawnmower set to a high blade height. To keep the plant under control, rigorously prune runners twice a year. Be sure to remove any runners escaping the desired planting area.
If the planting area becomes crowded, thin out the plants in the fall by digging up the entire clump and replanting half of the roots. Water thoroughly after replanting.
Because bugleweed spreads aggressively via runners, that fact should alert you to its potential to be invasive. To control it in your planting beds, you'll have to be faithful about pulling it out from where it doesn't belong. If you're not vigilant about controlling it, it will soon gain a toehold and become a pest.
Light
Bugleweed does well in full sun to part shade locations. Foliage color is most vibrant when the plant receives at least three to four hours of sunlight daily.
Soil
Bugleweed prefers medium moisture, well-drained soils with a good amount of organic matter. It will tolerate moderately dry soil. In the South, watch out for crown rot, also called "Southern blight," which is caused by a fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii).1 You can help prevent crown rot by assuring the soil drains well.
Water
Water bugleweed weekly while plants are getting established, then once every two to three weeks when they're established. Water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil become dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Bugleweed does well in a wide range of temperatures, but in very hot, humid areas, it requires good air circulation to prevent crown rot.
Fertilizer
Feeding is rarely necessary unless the plant is growing in poor soil. When it is needed, apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer. Or, use a water-soluble fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Morning feeding is best, and make sure to rinse off any fertilizer granules from the leaves.
Propagating Bugleweed
Ajuga is one of the easiest plants to propagate. It spreads by underground runners that form clumps surrounding the parent plant. At the point where these clumps begin to get crowded, you can dig them up and transplant them. This is best done in spring or fall when there is no chance of frost.
Dig up the entire mother plant and surrounding clumps, then separate them by hand or with a knife. Discard brown or withered clumps, and plant the individual plants in new locations.
Varieties of Bugleweed
A. reptans 'Atropurpureum' has bronze-purple foliage.
A. reptans 'Chocolate Chip' has darker leaves than the species plant, including a hint of chocolate brown.
A. reptans 'Burgundy Glow' has burgundy tri-colored variegated foliage (white, pink, and green).
A. reptans 'Dixie Chip' is another variety with tri-color variegated foliage (creamy-white, deep-rose, and green) and produces a mat 2 to 4 inches tall.
A. reptans 'Black Scallop' has perhaps the darkest foliage of all cultivars with almost-black, scalloped leaves and deep blue flower spikes. It produces a mat 3 to 6 inches tall. The darkest foliage color is achieved when plants are located in full sun.
Growing From Seed
Start bugleweed seed indoors in pots filled with a seed-starter mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost; they will sprout within a month. When the seedlings are viable, pot them up into larger containers. Once robust, transplant the seedlings into the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月09日
Tillandsia stricta is a common species in the air plant family, but this doesn’t make them any less special. Their versatility makes them a popular choice, and their vibrant blooms make them a beautiful addition to your home.
This air plant comes in many different varieties, meaning there are a plethora of looks to choose from. Some varieties have soft leaves while others have hard. In addition to foliage structure, Tillandsia stricta plants also vary in color. Many are different tones of green, but there is also a variety with foliage so dark it is almost black.
Their flowers may be red, pink, blue, or purple. Interestingly, the actual flower only lasts one day when it blooms. However, the beautiful bracts that these flower sprout from will remain colorful and attractive for weeks.
Botanical Name Tillandsia stricta
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, pink, blue, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South America
Tillandsia Stricta Care
The Tillandsia stricta is a hardy, low-maintenance specimen to add to your houseplant collection. They don't need soil and the key to their care if getting their watering and airflow right.
Eventually, your plant may reward you with its beautiful, vibrant blooms. This only happens when your plant reaches maturity, which may take years.
Occasionally, pests like mealybugs and scale may infect these plants.
Light
Most air plants thrive in bright, indirect light and the Tillandsia stricta is no exception. Place them in an area that receives bright sunlight from a window, but avoid positioning them directly on the windowsill. Too much direct sun can burn its foliage.
Soil
The fun thing about air plants is that they need air, not soil. Steer away from the temptation to place it in soil or moss just for looks. This can lead to rot and can kill your air plant.
Instead, embrace this soil-less plant and place it just about anywhere with good airflow. This could be sitting on a table or desk, hanging from the wall or ceiling, in a seashell, attached to a picture frame; the possibilities are endless.
If you would like to put it somewhere that needs a little extra support to keep it put, try fishing line, wire, or even a dab of glue. Just stay clear of copper or superglue, because these will kill your plant.
Water
Since your Tillandsia stricta has no soil to water, these plants need to go for a swim to get all the hydration they need. To do this, submerge your air plant in a bowl of clean water and let it soak it for 10 to 30 minutes.
If your Tillandsia stricta is sporting a flower at the time, be sure to keep the delicate flower out of the water to prevent damage. When finished soaking, remove your plant from the water and shake out any excess water hiding in the leaves. Check your plant after a couple of hours to ensure that it is completely dried off. If water sits too long in the leaves and core of the plant, it can cause rot.
Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best when watering your air plant. Steer away from tap water if you can, but if you must, be sure to let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it. This allows the chlorine commonly found in tap water to dissipate.
If you live in an area where you can grow Tillandsia stricta outside, placing it where it can receive natural rain is a great option. This will water your plant naturally and may eliminate the need to soak them as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Between these larger soaks, your Tillandsia stricta will thank you if you give it regular misting. This gives it the humidity and moisture it likes without overwhelming it or causing rot.
In hotter or drier climates, it would do good to mist your air plant every day. If you live in a more humid climate, you may only need to mist every three days or so.
As for temperature, most air plants do well in hot climates. However, they can handle anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit just fine. Though they are hardy, keep your Tillandsia stricta away from AC or heating units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage or kill your plant.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer can help create a healthy, happy air plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production. However, your Tillandsia stricta does not require fertilizer and will grow just fine without any.
If given too much fertilizer, your plant can be burned or even die. If you would like to encourage more growth, fertilize once a month using a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer. These are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed through the roots of a plant, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilizer is especially helpful when your Tillandsia stricta is blooming.
Propagating Tillandsia Stricta
Propagating your Tillandsia stricta is simple and an exciting way to take your plant cultivation hobby to the next level. When it is mature, your plant will produce pups at its base. These baby air plants are easily removed. Here is how:
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Identify where the pup is attached to the plant.
3. Carefully pop the pup off the mother plant with a gentle twist. To avoid damaging the new plant, grip the pup at the base and not from the top. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim it from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t see any. With proper care, your Tillandsia strict will reward you with bright blooms and pups in time.
This air plant comes in many different varieties, meaning there are a plethora of looks to choose from. Some varieties have soft leaves while others have hard. In addition to foliage structure, Tillandsia stricta plants also vary in color. Many are different tones of green, but there is also a variety with foliage so dark it is almost black.
Their flowers may be red, pink, blue, or purple. Interestingly, the actual flower only lasts one day when it blooms. However, the beautiful bracts that these flower sprout from will remain colorful and attractive for weeks.
Botanical Name Tillandsia stricta
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, pink, blue, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South America
Tillandsia Stricta Care
The Tillandsia stricta is a hardy, low-maintenance specimen to add to your houseplant collection. They don't need soil and the key to their care if getting their watering and airflow right.
Eventually, your plant may reward you with its beautiful, vibrant blooms. This only happens when your plant reaches maturity, which may take years.
Occasionally, pests like mealybugs and scale may infect these plants.
Light
Most air plants thrive in bright, indirect light and the Tillandsia stricta is no exception. Place them in an area that receives bright sunlight from a window, but avoid positioning them directly on the windowsill. Too much direct sun can burn its foliage.
Soil
The fun thing about air plants is that they need air, not soil. Steer away from the temptation to place it in soil or moss just for looks. This can lead to rot and can kill your air plant.
Instead, embrace this soil-less plant and place it just about anywhere with good airflow. This could be sitting on a table or desk, hanging from the wall or ceiling, in a seashell, attached to a picture frame; the possibilities are endless.
If you would like to put it somewhere that needs a little extra support to keep it put, try fishing line, wire, or even a dab of glue. Just stay clear of copper or superglue, because these will kill your plant.
Water
Since your Tillandsia stricta has no soil to water, these plants need to go for a swim to get all the hydration they need. To do this, submerge your air plant in a bowl of clean water and let it soak it for 10 to 30 minutes.
If your Tillandsia stricta is sporting a flower at the time, be sure to keep the delicate flower out of the water to prevent damage. When finished soaking, remove your plant from the water and shake out any excess water hiding in the leaves. Check your plant after a couple of hours to ensure that it is completely dried off. If water sits too long in the leaves and core of the plant, it can cause rot.
Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best when watering your air plant. Steer away from tap water if you can, but if you must, be sure to let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it. This allows the chlorine commonly found in tap water to dissipate.
If you live in an area where you can grow Tillandsia stricta outside, placing it where it can receive natural rain is a great option. This will water your plant naturally and may eliminate the need to soak them as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Between these larger soaks, your Tillandsia stricta will thank you if you give it regular misting. This gives it the humidity and moisture it likes without overwhelming it or causing rot.
In hotter or drier climates, it would do good to mist your air plant every day. If you live in a more humid climate, you may only need to mist every three days or so.
As for temperature, most air plants do well in hot climates. However, they can handle anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit just fine. Though they are hardy, keep your Tillandsia stricta away from AC or heating units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage or kill your plant.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer can help create a healthy, happy air plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production. However, your Tillandsia stricta does not require fertilizer and will grow just fine without any.
If given too much fertilizer, your plant can be burned or even die. If you would like to encourage more growth, fertilize once a month using a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer. These are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed through the roots of a plant, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilizer is especially helpful when your Tillandsia stricta is blooming.
Propagating Tillandsia Stricta
Propagating your Tillandsia stricta is simple and an exciting way to take your plant cultivation hobby to the next level. When it is mature, your plant will produce pups at its base. These baby air plants are easily removed. Here is how:
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Identify where the pup is attached to the plant.
3. Carefully pop the pup off the mother plant with a gentle twist. To avoid damaging the new plant, grip the pup at the base and not from the top. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim it from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t see any. With proper care, your Tillandsia strict will reward you with bright blooms and pups in time.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月05日
Distribution and habitat: Euphorbia milii is a species of flowering plant in the spurge family Euphorbiaciae, native to Madagascar. It is a succulent climbing shrub with densely spiny stems. The straight, slender spines help Euphorbia milii scramble over other plants. The leaves are found mainly on new growth and are obovate. The flowers are small, subtended by a pair of conspicuous petal-like bracts, variably red, pink or white.
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月03日
Looking for an air plant to really make a statement? The Tillandsia cacticola may just be the perfect, eye-catching addition. This tillandsia species is rare and only found in the high altitudes of Peru. They can be seen clinging to rocks or cacti, and are distinguished by their light, sage green foliage.
These air plants are covered in tiny hairs, making their leaves soft in texture. The Tillandsia cacticola grows upwards along a tall stem, sending its sprawling foliage outward to make a wild, beautiful display.
When these air plants bloom, they create tall white or lavender blooms sure to stand out among your plants. These blooms are long-lasting and may stick around for months on end.
Botanical Name Tillandsia cacticola
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 inches tall and 6 to 18 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light to full sun
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color White or lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Peru
Tillandsia Cacticola Care
The Tillandsia cacticola makes an easy and unique addition to almost any area of your home, inside or out. Since the Tillandsia cacticola is an air plant, it needs no soil and can be placed in a variety of locations. An area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow would make the perfect place for your air plant.
Though intimidating at first, caring for these soil-less plants is actually very easy. The biggest thing they require is regular watering.
With patience and care, your Tillandsia cacticola can even bloom. This process may take years to achieve, but their one-time display is worth the wait.
Once these plants are mature, they will produce pups or new air plants. Once these appear, you can gently remove them to create more air plants. Removing them is not necessary, though. You can also leave them attached and slowly grow one large clump of air plants.
Common pests include mealybugs and scale.
Light
Tillandsia cacticola love bright, indirect lighting. This variety can tolerate and enjoy even more direct sunshine than most air plants. This is due to its many tiny hairs, or trichomes, on its foliage.
Soil
Air plants need no soil at all. In fact, they require good airflow. Placing their base in soil or moss will restrict airflow and keep them too moist.
Since no pot is needed, you can set your Tillandsia cacticola wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Placing them in seashells, a decorative piece of wood, or in hanging terrariums all make wonderful options.
Water
The Tillandsia cacticola is more drought-resistant than other air plants. Even so, these plants still need a good soak every week. A good indicator to look for is curling leaves. This is a sign that your Tillandsia cacticola needs a drink.
When this occurs, submerge your plant in a bowl of water and leave it for 10 to 30 minutes. If your plant is in bloom, keep the delicate flower above the water to prevent damage.
Once your air plant is done soaking remove from the water and shake out any excess water pooling in the leaves. Be sure that your air plant dries completely in a couple of hours to prevent rot. Also, ensure that your water is clean when soaking your Tillandsia cacticola. Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best. If you have to use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to reduce chlorine levels.
If you are growing this plant outside, placing it in an area where it will receive natural rain may eliminate the need to soak as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia cacticola, although being more drought resistant, still loves a healthy dose of humidity. A regular schedule of misting will give it the additional moisture that it needs. If your Tillandsia cacticola is in a very dry, hot climate you may need to mist daily. In humid environments, every four to five days will do.
These plants do well in hot climates. However, if kept inside, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage the plants. Your Tillandsia cacticola will appreciate being in an area with good airflow and ventilation.
Fertilizer
Regular fertilizing is not necessary for your Tillandsia cacticola to survive. In fact, too much fertilizer can burn and kill air plants. However, the proper fertilizer given in the right amounts can contribute to a healthy, happy plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production.
Be sure to use a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer since these are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed from the soil through the plant’s roots, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilize once a month for the best results, especially if you see your Tillandsia cacticola beginning to bloom.
Propagating Tillandsia Cacticola
Propagating Tillandsia cacticola is simple. However, this variety of air plants is not as prolific as others, so you may only see one or two pups once it is mature. Once you see these pups, you can easily remove them to create more air plants. Here is how:
1. When the pup is at least a third the size of the parent plant, it is mature enough to separate.
2. Identify the pup's base, where it is attached to the parent plant.
3. Gently separate the pup off the parent plant. Aim to pull the pup from its base leaves so you don't damage the top leaves. You may need to use a sharp knife or scissors if the pup doesn't easily detach.
4. Once the pup is separated, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Keep in mind that air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so you may need to cultivate Tillandisa cacticola for some time before propagation.
These air plants are covered in tiny hairs, making their leaves soft in texture. The Tillandsia cacticola grows upwards along a tall stem, sending its sprawling foliage outward to make a wild, beautiful display.
When these air plants bloom, they create tall white or lavender blooms sure to stand out among your plants. These blooms are long-lasting and may stick around for months on end.
Botanical Name Tillandsia cacticola
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 inches tall and 6 to 18 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light to full sun
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color White or lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Peru
Tillandsia Cacticola Care
The Tillandsia cacticola makes an easy and unique addition to almost any area of your home, inside or out. Since the Tillandsia cacticola is an air plant, it needs no soil and can be placed in a variety of locations. An area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow would make the perfect place for your air plant.
Though intimidating at first, caring for these soil-less plants is actually very easy. The biggest thing they require is regular watering.
With patience and care, your Tillandsia cacticola can even bloom. This process may take years to achieve, but their one-time display is worth the wait.
Once these plants are mature, they will produce pups or new air plants. Once these appear, you can gently remove them to create more air plants. Removing them is not necessary, though. You can also leave them attached and slowly grow one large clump of air plants.
Common pests include mealybugs and scale.
Light
Tillandsia cacticola love bright, indirect lighting. This variety can tolerate and enjoy even more direct sunshine than most air plants. This is due to its many tiny hairs, or trichomes, on its foliage.
Soil
Air plants need no soil at all. In fact, they require good airflow. Placing their base in soil or moss will restrict airflow and keep them too moist.
Since no pot is needed, you can set your Tillandsia cacticola wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Placing them in seashells, a decorative piece of wood, or in hanging terrariums all make wonderful options.
Water
The Tillandsia cacticola is more drought-resistant than other air plants. Even so, these plants still need a good soak every week. A good indicator to look for is curling leaves. This is a sign that your Tillandsia cacticola needs a drink.
When this occurs, submerge your plant in a bowl of water and leave it for 10 to 30 minutes. If your plant is in bloom, keep the delicate flower above the water to prevent damage.
Once your air plant is done soaking remove from the water and shake out any excess water pooling in the leaves. Be sure that your air plant dries completely in a couple of hours to prevent rot. Also, ensure that your water is clean when soaking your Tillandsia cacticola. Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best. If you have to use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to reduce chlorine levels.
If you are growing this plant outside, placing it in an area where it will receive natural rain may eliminate the need to soak as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia cacticola, although being more drought resistant, still loves a healthy dose of humidity. A regular schedule of misting will give it the additional moisture that it needs. If your Tillandsia cacticola is in a very dry, hot climate you may need to mist daily. In humid environments, every four to five days will do.
These plants do well in hot climates. However, if kept inside, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage the plants. Your Tillandsia cacticola will appreciate being in an area with good airflow and ventilation.
Fertilizer
Regular fertilizing is not necessary for your Tillandsia cacticola to survive. In fact, too much fertilizer can burn and kill air plants. However, the proper fertilizer given in the right amounts can contribute to a healthy, happy plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production.
Be sure to use a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer since these are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed from the soil through the plant’s roots, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilize once a month for the best results, especially if you see your Tillandsia cacticola beginning to bloom.
Propagating Tillandsia Cacticola
Propagating Tillandsia cacticola is simple. However, this variety of air plants is not as prolific as others, so you may only see one or two pups once it is mature. Once you see these pups, you can easily remove them to create more air plants. Here is how:
1. When the pup is at least a third the size of the parent plant, it is mature enough to separate.
2. Identify the pup's base, where it is attached to the parent plant.
3. Gently separate the pup off the parent plant. Aim to pull the pup from its base leaves so you don't damage the top leaves. You may need to use a sharp knife or scissors if the pup doesn't easily detach.
4. Once the pup is separated, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Keep in mind that air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so you may need to cultivate Tillandisa cacticola for some time before propagation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月19日
Aeonium is a genus including about 35 succulent plant species with unusually glossy, waxy leaves arranged in rosettes. The species range from the low-growing A. tabuliforme and A. smithii, just a few inches across, to large species several feet across, such as A. arboreum, A. valverdense, and A. holochrysum. The leaves and structure of the plant are so perfect that these species are sometimes mistaken for artificial plants.
The leaves of Aeoniums are typically rounded and arranged in rosettes around center hubs at the end of stems. The foliage can be a solid color, or variegated in white, yellow, red, and green. Small, star-like flowers grow in clusters from the center of the rosettes, but they are not particularly showy. The fleshy leaves make these plants quite similar to several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum—the popular hens and chicks.
Aeoniums can be planted in the garden at any time. These are rather slow-growing plants, and it may take as much as five years before they bloom.
Latin Name Aeonium spp.
Common Names Aeonium
Plant Type Perennial succulent
Mature Size 2–60 inches (depending on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Sandy loam
Soil pH 5.6–6.0 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Late winter or spring
Flower Color Pink (flowering is rare, occurring only in mature plants)
Hardiness Zones 9–11(USDA); often grown as potted plants brought indoors for winter
Native Area Canary Islands, Africa
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aeonium Care
In warmer climates, Aeoniums can be grown as in the ground as perennials, but it is also common to grow them as potted plants on decks or patios. In colder regions, they should be grown in containers and taken inside before frost. When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention when grouped in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby; you can trim them if they get too leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeoniums require very little pampering. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, watering, and moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeoniums have shallow root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. Unlike other succulents, which prefer dry soil, Aeoniums prefer soil that is moist but not wet. They can produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. Make sure these roots do not dry out. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Keep an eye out for pests on Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage, and aphids, mealybugs, and ants also enjoy Aeoniums. Treat the plant with a spray of water or mild insecticidal soap to remove these pests.
Light
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to part shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary. Indoors, give them bright indirect light.
Soil
A sandy loam or regular potting mix amended with perlite is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeoniums need some moisture. If grown in garden beds with dense soil, it may be necessary to amend with peat moss to improve soil porosity.
Water
In the winter, water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. These plants do like more moisture than many other succulents, but too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer a Mediterranean climate—not too hot, not too cold, not too dry. Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Growing Aeoniums in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) and damp. They may go dormant in summer and do not require excessive watering, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl to prevent excessive water loss.
Fertilizer
Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum: This widely available plant has bright green rosettes on a branching stem. It has a shrubby form and can grow as tall as 6 feet in the garden, or 3 feet in containers.
Aeonium arboreum 'Atropurpureum': This 3- to 5-foot tall cultivar has maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop': This cultivar has very dark, almost black leaves. It, too, is a fairly large plant.
Aeonium 'Garnet': A hybrid cross of A. 'Zwarkop' and A. tabuliforme, this variety's leaves are green toward the middle and tipped with dark red.
Aeonium davidbramwelli 'Sunburst': This variety is a shorter, 1- to 2-foot tall plant but has rosettes up to 1 foot across with pale yellow, white and green stripes, and pink tips.
Aeonium haworthii 'Tricolor' or 'Kiwi': An easy growing 2- to 3-foot plant, it has 4-inch flowers that have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
Potting and Repotting
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums are great for growing in containers, where you can get a closer look at their unique features and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them at all. Choose a container with a drainage hole to avoid standing water and root rot. To help maintain the necessary moisture levels, use a regular potting mix rather than a fast-draining succulent/cactus mix.
If you are growing Aeoniums in containers, re-pot every 2 to 3 years with fresh potting soil.
Propagating Aeoniums
Like many succulents, Aeoniums are very easy to propagate from cuttings. Even stem pieces that fall off the plant may readily take root in the surrounding soil.
Cut off a stem piece containing a leaf rosette. Place the cutting in shade and allow the cut end to heal for about three days.
Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a mixture of half regular potting soil and half cactus/succulent potting mix. Place the severed end of the cutting into the potting mix, just deep enough to hold it upright. Place the pot in bright indirect light and water it lightly once each week.
Once the plant has developed strong roots, allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Re-pot into a larger container as needed.
Most Aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that the mother plant dies after flowering. However, if the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to start new plants from cuttings periodically. You can also start new plants from the seed.
The leaves of Aeoniums are typically rounded and arranged in rosettes around center hubs at the end of stems. The foliage can be a solid color, or variegated in white, yellow, red, and green. Small, star-like flowers grow in clusters from the center of the rosettes, but they are not particularly showy. The fleshy leaves make these plants quite similar to several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum—the popular hens and chicks.
Aeoniums can be planted in the garden at any time. These are rather slow-growing plants, and it may take as much as five years before they bloom.
Latin Name Aeonium spp.
Common Names Aeonium
Plant Type Perennial succulent
Mature Size 2–60 inches (depending on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Sandy loam
Soil pH 5.6–6.0 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Late winter or spring
Flower Color Pink (flowering is rare, occurring only in mature plants)
Hardiness Zones 9–11(USDA); often grown as potted plants brought indoors for winter
Native Area Canary Islands, Africa
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aeonium Care
In warmer climates, Aeoniums can be grown as in the ground as perennials, but it is also common to grow them as potted plants on decks or patios. In colder regions, they should be grown in containers and taken inside before frost. When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention when grouped in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby; you can trim them if they get too leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeoniums require very little pampering. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, watering, and moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeoniums have shallow root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. Unlike other succulents, which prefer dry soil, Aeoniums prefer soil that is moist but not wet. They can produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. Make sure these roots do not dry out. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Keep an eye out for pests on Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage, and aphids, mealybugs, and ants also enjoy Aeoniums. Treat the plant with a spray of water or mild insecticidal soap to remove these pests.
Light
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to part shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary. Indoors, give them bright indirect light.
Soil
A sandy loam or regular potting mix amended with perlite is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeoniums need some moisture. If grown in garden beds with dense soil, it may be necessary to amend with peat moss to improve soil porosity.
Water
In the winter, water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. These plants do like more moisture than many other succulents, but too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer a Mediterranean climate—not too hot, not too cold, not too dry. Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Growing Aeoniums in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) and damp. They may go dormant in summer and do not require excessive watering, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl to prevent excessive water loss.
Fertilizer
Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum: This widely available plant has bright green rosettes on a branching stem. It has a shrubby form and can grow as tall as 6 feet in the garden, or 3 feet in containers.
Aeonium arboreum 'Atropurpureum': This 3- to 5-foot tall cultivar has maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop': This cultivar has very dark, almost black leaves. It, too, is a fairly large plant.
Aeonium 'Garnet': A hybrid cross of A. 'Zwarkop' and A. tabuliforme, this variety's leaves are green toward the middle and tipped with dark red.
Aeonium davidbramwelli 'Sunburst': This variety is a shorter, 1- to 2-foot tall plant but has rosettes up to 1 foot across with pale yellow, white and green stripes, and pink tips.
Aeonium haworthii 'Tricolor' or 'Kiwi': An easy growing 2- to 3-foot plant, it has 4-inch flowers that have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
Potting and Repotting
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums are great for growing in containers, where you can get a closer look at their unique features and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them at all. Choose a container with a drainage hole to avoid standing water and root rot. To help maintain the necessary moisture levels, use a regular potting mix rather than a fast-draining succulent/cactus mix.
If you are growing Aeoniums in containers, re-pot every 2 to 3 years with fresh potting soil.
Propagating Aeoniums
Like many succulents, Aeoniums are very easy to propagate from cuttings. Even stem pieces that fall off the plant may readily take root in the surrounding soil.
Cut off a stem piece containing a leaf rosette. Place the cutting in shade and allow the cut end to heal for about three days.
Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a mixture of half regular potting soil and half cactus/succulent potting mix. Place the severed end of the cutting into the potting mix, just deep enough to hold it upright. Place the pot in bright indirect light and water it lightly once each week.
Once the plant has developed strong roots, allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Re-pot into a larger container as needed.
Most Aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that the mother plant dies after flowering. However, if the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to start new plants from cuttings periodically. You can also start new plants from the seed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月08日
Distribution and habitat: Aloe arborescens is a species of flowering succulent perennial plant endemic to the south eastern part of Southern Africa. Aloe arborescens has adapted to many different habitats, its natural habitat usually consists of mountainous areas including rocky outcrops and exposed ridges. Its habitat can vary and is one of only a few species of aloe that is found growing from sea level up to the tops of mountains.
Description: Aloe arborescens can grow to 2m (6.5 feet) tall; only young plants are suitable for use indoors. The narrow, tooth-edged leaves which are 15-22cm (6-7 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, form a loose rosette on the end of a bare woody stem. Offsets normally appear around the base when plants are two or three years old. Red flowers may be produced at the top of a long branched stem.
Houseplant care: Aloe arborescens is an easy to grow houseplant as long as the light requirements are met.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe arborescens. They do well in full sunlight. No Aloe will thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe arborescens grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Water: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the mixture from drying out.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Aloe arborescens should be moved into one size larger pot every spring. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top-dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year.
Propagation: Offsets can be taken from the base of the plant in early summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation purposes.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Plants that have a rosette of leaves on a long stem are likely to produce additional small rosettes low down on the stem and these root more easily than the rosettes which are higher up.
Offsets will root in two or three weeks in the standard potting mixture is some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should have bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered sparingly, only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the mixture to drying out between waterings.
Problems:
Melly bugs and root mealy bugs can be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of the rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Use an insecticide soap or make one from dish detergent (free of perfumes and additives if it is possible) mixed in a week concentration with water and spay the plants. After treatment washing the plant is recommended. Alternatively, use an adequate pesticide. Repeat the treatment if necessary.
Uses: Grown in containers, Aloe arborescens make a remarkable houseplant or installed on porches, patios, decks, etc.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 1.8-2.4m (6-8 feet)
Wide: 1.2m (4 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – Low
Hardiness zones: 9b-11
Description: Aloe arborescens can grow to 2m (6.5 feet) tall; only young plants are suitable for use indoors. The narrow, tooth-edged leaves which are 15-22cm (6-7 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, form a loose rosette on the end of a bare woody stem. Offsets normally appear around the base when plants are two or three years old. Red flowers may be produced at the top of a long branched stem.
Houseplant care: Aloe arborescens is an easy to grow houseplant as long as the light requirements are met.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe arborescens. They do well in full sunlight. No Aloe will thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe arborescens grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Water: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the mixture from drying out.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Aloe arborescens should be moved into one size larger pot every spring. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top-dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year.
Propagation: Offsets can be taken from the base of the plant in early summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation purposes.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Plants that have a rosette of leaves on a long stem are likely to produce additional small rosettes low down on the stem and these root more easily than the rosettes which are higher up.
Offsets will root in two or three weeks in the standard potting mixture is some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should have bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered sparingly, only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the mixture to drying out between waterings.
Problems:
Melly bugs and root mealy bugs can be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of the rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Use an insecticide soap or make one from dish detergent (free of perfumes and additives if it is possible) mixed in a week concentration with water and spay the plants. After treatment washing the plant is recommended. Alternatively, use an adequate pesticide. Repeat the treatment if necessary.
Uses: Grown in containers, Aloe arborescens make a remarkable houseplant or installed on porches, patios, decks, etc.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 1.8-2.4m (6-8 feet)
Wide: 1.2m (4 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – Low
Hardiness zones: 9b-11
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