文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月03日
Calathea are a tropical species that are popular houseplant additions because of the bold markings on their abundant foliage. They are also called peacock, zebra, or rattlesnake plants, referring to their decorative leaves resembling characteristics from those animals. In their native habitat, calathea species are known for their striking inflorescences. But they rarely flower indoors when grown as houseplants. It's best to divide and transplant this species in spring or summer.
The variegated foliage of the calathea 'White Fusion' cultivar features a leaf top side with contrasting white markings alongside the green. The underside has a pretty light purple-pinkish hue that runs down the stems. Although their care can be a little more particular than some houseplants, once you get it right, you will be rewarded with an eye-catching display of foliage that grows profusely and quickly.
Common Name Calathea 'White Fusion'
Botanical Name Calathea lietzei
Family Marantaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial
Mature Size Up to 2 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 11-12, USA
Native Area South America
Calathea Care
Calathea can be rather specific regarding their care requirements, and calathea 'White Fusion' is no exception. These plants like moisture, but not excessive amounts, sun is good, but not too much, and extreme temperatures need to be avoided.
You should regularly wipe down the calathea 'White Fusion' large leaves to remove dust. Removing dust from leaves allows the plant to breathe well. Don't use any leaf shine products; they can cause damage. Don't panic if you see an infrequent, small amount of discoloration or brown tips is to be expected; the foliage on this cultivar is delicate.
Light
Finding the right light level for your plant is one of the most critical care elements for your calathea 'White Fusion.' The wrong light level may cause poor development of the variegation on the plant. This plant needs filtered bright light. Too much light can cause the markings to fade and leaf curling; too shady a position and the markings won't develop properly in the first place.
Soil
Mixes recommended for African violets are often well-suited to calathea cultivars like 'White Fusion' as they retain moisture well and drain excess water. You can make a peaty, airy, lightweight potting mix by combining orchard bark, perlite, and standard potting soil.
Water
The calathea 'White Fusion' prefers to be consistently moist, but soggy and waterlogged conditions are a recipe for disaster. These plants like high humidity, but overly wet soils can lead to root rot and bacterial and fungal issues. Ensure the plant's pot has suitable drainage holes. Water thoroughly, but make sure the water drains out the bottom and does not pool in a collection plate.
Once the top inch of soil is dry, this is usually a good indicator that your plant needs more water. In the summer, you'll likely water once a week. Since the plant slows down its growth in the winter, it will require less water, probably only needing water every two weeks. Use the finger test to check the first inch of soil for moisture, but crisping leaves indicate that your plant is overly dry.
Many enthusiasts chose to use collected rainwater or distilled water for their calathea since this plant can be sensitive to chemicals in the water. Still, room temperature tap water is fine.
Temperature and Humidity
Avoid temperature extremes. Tropical species like calathea like humidity in their environment. Although they like warmer temperatures, sweltering heat can be too much for this plant. For example, if you heat your home all day in the winter but stop heating it at night, this sudden change can shock your plant. Also, the drying conditions from heating units can be a problem in decimating humidity levels.
If retaining humidity around the plant is a concern, you can sit the plant pot on top of a tray with some pebbles. Any water that drains out and collects in the pebbles will eventually evaporate and increase humidity levels without soaking the plant's roots. Or, you could invest in a humidifier, mainly if you are a collector of various tropical houseplants. Also, keep your calathea 'White Fusion' out of direct drafts but strike a balance by providing decent ventilation.
Fertilizer
Your calathea 'White Fusion' will appreciate a monthly application of liquid fertilizer during its growth period—spring through fall; stop feeding in the winter. Pick fertilizer designed for houseplants with dense foliage, likely a type that is more nitrogen-rich. The plant will only need a weak dose or half the strength recommended on the fertilizer container.
Pruning
If your calathea 'White Fusion' has a few leaves that have browned or curled excessively, don't be afraid to cut these off at the stem. Prune any dead, dying, or damaged leaves as soon as you spot them and remove them from the soil. If your plant is healthy and given the care and conditions it needs, new leaves grow and fill in for the dead ones. Deadhead faded blooms.
Propagating Calathea 'White Fusion'
The best time of year to propagate this plant is during the spring or summer during its period of vigorous growth. It can be propagated by division, leaf node cutting, or sown seeds. Use root division only if the mother plant is healthy. Dividing your plant helps you maintain your plant's size and keep the plant thriving. Once you divide, it will immediately make the plant look less full, but you will have two full-looking plants in time. Here's how to divide your calathea:
You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, a sterilized knife or trowel, and a clean, flat workspace.
Several days before you divide your plant, water it thoroughly.
Inspect the plant for offsets or new shoots. These are baby plants developed by the mother plant. You can isolate that one shoot, its roots, and replant it. Or, you can take the current mother plant and split it in half. Or, you can do both. The offset should be at least 7 inches tall.
To take the plant out of the pot, turn the pot upside down, keep your hand fanned out wide at the base, securing the plant and its root ball in your hand.
If you have offsets or pups on your workspace, pull out those separate roots first. If you want to divide your plant in half, take your clean knife or trowel and make a sharp, clean cut through the root system. Ensure that each half has part of the root system and each leaf is attached to a stem.
Replant the pup in a smaller container than the mother plant; use a 4- to 6-inch container to start.
Place the plant in a bright spot but not directly in the sun.
To propagate via leaf note cutting:
You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, sterilized scissors or pruning snips, and a clean, flat workspace.
Find a leaf node—the place where new leaves shoot from the stem—and cut about an inch below it. Make sure you have a few leaves intact with that node.
Plant the cutting in well-draining potting soil. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Place the pot in a bright spot but not in direct sun.
In two weeks, roots will develop. Pull out the plant and its trailing roots and replant in a larger pot, about 2-inches larger.
How to Grow Calathea 'White Fusion' From Seed
To grow calathea from seed, use a moistened seed starting mix or well-draining potting soil. Plant the seed about 1/4-inch deep. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep in the soil's humidity and maintain warm soil. If the soil needs warming, use a heating pad to help spur germination.
Put the pot in a bright but indirectly lit location. It can take up to a month for the seeds to sprout. Once a seedling grows at least an inch tall, carefully lift the sprout, keeping its root structure intact. Replant into a larger container, at least 2-inches larger.
Potting and Repotting Calathea 'White Fusion'
Repot it once a year (or every two years) to replenish the soil. Calathea plants that get rootbound invite fungal infections that will kill the plant. Increase the size of the container an inch or two each time. If you tend to overwater your plants, get an unglazed terra cotta pot since it’s porous and allows water to evaporate through the walls. If you tend to forget to water your plants, you might want to get glazed clay, plastic, or fiberglass pots. Repot your plant in spring or early summer during its active growing season. Water it thoroughly the day or two before repotting; it lessens the stress on the plant.
Overwintering
All calathea plants are tropical and will not survive a frost or freezing winter. As the temperatures begin to cool, prepare to bring your plant indoors to a bright spot with indirect sun by getting the plant used to indoor life slowly—only two hours a day at first, then increase by an hour each day. Keep the plant away from drafts and heaters. Keep the humidity high around the plant and mist the plant, if necessary. Once the outdoor climate warms again, gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor life by bringing the plant out for two hours a day, then increasing by an hour each day. Temperature shifts are shocking for this plant and may cause a few leaves to drop.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Because they prefer a high humidity environment, fungus gnats can occasionally be a problem for calathea 'White Fusion.' They won't do any significant damage, but they are unsightly and not particularly pleasant. Apply neem oil to the leaves as a natural deterrent. Other common pests include aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale. You can treat each with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Calathea plants tend to get overwatered because they require high humidity, making them prone to bacterial or fungal infections. If your plant develops Pseudomonas leaf spot, looking like white splotches on the leaves, you will have to destroy the plant since there is no treatment for this bacterial infection; and it can spread to other plants. To reduce the risk of getting this disease again, do not water from overhead—water the soil only (not the leaves) or water from underneath.
Root rot is a fungal disease that causes rapidly yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and the base of the plant turns brown and rots. Take the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots below the soil line to treat root rot. Yellow roots are fine, but if browning, you must treat rotting roots immediately. Using sterile pruning snips or a knife, cut away any brown or mushy roots and discard them. Wash the pot in warm soapy water. Replace the soil with fresh, well-draining soil. Treat the place where the root was cut with an antifungal and plant it in the fresh soil. Keep the soil loose in the container so the roots can breathe.
How to Get Calathea 'White Fusion' to Bloom
Calathea 'White Fusion' produces small flowers when it reaches maturity, usually in the spring or summer. But when calathea are grown indoors, they very rarely bloom. If you replicate and maintain their ideal conditions indoors, then you might be rewarded with a bloom to let you know that you have figured out the secret to their growing success. However, the flowers are not much to look at and have no fragrance.
Common Problems With Calathea 'White Fusion'
Calathea plants of all types require a moderate amount of care. They are sensitive about their humidity, temperature, drafts, water level, and lighting. When any of these variables are out of balance, the plant becomes prone to growth issues or health problems.
Leaves Turning Brown
Leaves turn yellow, brown, or die when calathea white fusion is overwatered. Dead calathea white fusion leaves should be removed immediately so that the plant doesn't start to rot, smell bad, and invite fungus. The leaves of calathea 'White Fusion' may turn brown and droop or fall off if they are placed too close to a window or in direct sunlight. Move the plant further away from the window to protect the plant's delicate leaves.
Leaves Wilting or Drooping
When calatheas need more water, the leaves will wilt, curl, or droop downward from the main stalk. Increase water frequency or volume. You can also mist the plant's leaves or invest in a small humidifier to give the plant more moisture.
Leaf Patterns Disappearing
When this plant gets overexposed to the sun, it will produce more chlorophyll, making the green coloration in the leaf more dominant. Find a shadier spot with filtered or dappled light to fix this situation.
The variegated foliage of the calathea 'White Fusion' cultivar features a leaf top side with contrasting white markings alongside the green. The underside has a pretty light purple-pinkish hue that runs down the stems. Although their care can be a little more particular than some houseplants, once you get it right, you will be rewarded with an eye-catching display of foliage that grows profusely and quickly.
Common Name Calathea 'White Fusion'
Botanical Name Calathea lietzei
Family Marantaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous Perennial
Mature Size Up to 2 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Moist, Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, purple, white
Hardiness Zones 11-12, USA
Native Area South America
Calathea Care
Calathea can be rather specific regarding their care requirements, and calathea 'White Fusion' is no exception. These plants like moisture, but not excessive amounts, sun is good, but not too much, and extreme temperatures need to be avoided.
You should regularly wipe down the calathea 'White Fusion' large leaves to remove dust. Removing dust from leaves allows the plant to breathe well. Don't use any leaf shine products; they can cause damage. Don't panic if you see an infrequent, small amount of discoloration or brown tips is to be expected; the foliage on this cultivar is delicate.
Light
Finding the right light level for your plant is one of the most critical care elements for your calathea 'White Fusion.' The wrong light level may cause poor development of the variegation on the plant. This plant needs filtered bright light. Too much light can cause the markings to fade and leaf curling; too shady a position and the markings won't develop properly in the first place.
Soil
Mixes recommended for African violets are often well-suited to calathea cultivars like 'White Fusion' as they retain moisture well and drain excess water. You can make a peaty, airy, lightweight potting mix by combining orchard bark, perlite, and standard potting soil.
Water
The calathea 'White Fusion' prefers to be consistently moist, but soggy and waterlogged conditions are a recipe for disaster. These plants like high humidity, but overly wet soils can lead to root rot and bacterial and fungal issues. Ensure the plant's pot has suitable drainage holes. Water thoroughly, but make sure the water drains out the bottom and does not pool in a collection plate.
Once the top inch of soil is dry, this is usually a good indicator that your plant needs more water. In the summer, you'll likely water once a week. Since the plant slows down its growth in the winter, it will require less water, probably only needing water every two weeks. Use the finger test to check the first inch of soil for moisture, but crisping leaves indicate that your plant is overly dry.
Many enthusiasts chose to use collected rainwater or distilled water for their calathea since this plant can be sensitive to chemicals in the water. Still, room temperature tap water is fine.
Temperature and Humidity
Avoid temperature extremes. Tropical species like calathea like humidity in their environment. Although they like warmer temperatures, sweltering heat can be too much for this plant. For example, if you heat your home all day in the winter but stop heating it at night, this sudden change can shock your plant. Also, the drying conditions from heating units can be a problem in decimating humidity levels.
If retaining humidity around the plant is a concern, you can sit the plant pot on top of a tray with some pebbles. Any water that drains out and collects in the pebbles will eventually evaporate and increase humidity levels without soaking the plant's roots. Or, you could invest in a humidifier, mainly if you are a collector of various tropical houseplants. Also, keep your calathea 'White Fusion' out of direct drafts but strike a balance by providing decent ventilation.
Fertilizer
Your calathea 'White Fusion' will appreciate a monthly application of liquid fertilizer during its growth period—spring through fall; stop feeding in the winter. Pick fertilizer designed for houseplants with dense foliage, likely a type that is more nitrogen-rich. The plant will only need a weak dose or half the strength recommended on the fertilizer container.
Pruning
If your calathea 'White Fusion' has a few leaves that have browned or curled excessively, don't be afraid to cut these off at the stem. Prune any dead, dying, or damaged leaves as soon as you spot them and remove them from the soil. If your plant is healthy and given the care and conditions it needs, new leaves grow and fill in for the dead ones. Deadhead faded blooms.
Propagating Calathea 'White Fusion'
The best time of year to propagate this plant is during the spring or summer during its period of vigorous growth. It can be propagated by division, leaf node cutting, or sown seeds. Use root division only if the mother plant is healthy. Dividing your plant helps you maintain your plant's size and keep the plant thriving. Once you divide, it will immediately make the plant look less full, but you will have two full-looking plants in time. Here's how to divide your calathea:
You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, a sterilized knife or trowel, and a clean, flat workspace.
Several days before you divide your plant, water it thoroughly.
Inspect the plant for offsets or new shoots. These are baby plants developed by the mother plant. You can isolate that one shoot, its roots, and replant it. Or, you can take the current mother plant and split it in half. Or, you can do both. The offset should be at least 7 inches tall.
To take the plant out of the pot, turn the pot upside down, keep your hand fanned out wide at the base, securing the plant and its root ball in your hand.
If you have offsets or pups on your workspace, pull out those separate roots first. If you want to divide your plant in half, take your clean knife or trowel and make a sharp, clean cut through the root system. Ensure that each half has part of the root system and each leaf is attached to a stem.
Replant the pup in a smaller container than the mother plant; use a 4- to 6-inch container to start.
Place the plant in a bright spot but not directly in the sun.
To propagate via leaf note cutting:
You'll need a 3-inch pot, well-draining potting soil, sterilized scissors or pruning snips, and a clean, flat workspace.
Find a leaf node—the place where new leaves shoot from the stem—and cut about an inch below it. Make sure you have a few leaves intact with that node.
Plant the cutting in well-draining potting soil. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Place the pot in a bright spot but not in direct sun.
In two weeks, roots will develop. Pull out the plant and its trailing roots and replant in a larger pot, about 2-inches larger.
How to Grow Calathea 'White Fusion' From Seed
To grow calathea from seed, use a moistened seed starting mix or well-draining potting soil. Plant the seed about 1/4-inch deep. Cover the container with plastic wrap to keep in the soil's humidity and maintain warm soil. If the soil needs warming, use a heating pad to help spur germination.
Put the pot in a bright but indirectly lit location. It can take up to a month for the seeds to sprout. Once a seedling grows at least an inch tall, carefully lift the sprout, keeping its root structure intact. Replant into a larger container, at least 2-inches larger.
Potting and Repotting Calathea 'White Fusion'
Repot it once a year (or every two years) to replenish the soil. Calathea plants that get rootbound invite fungal infections that will kill the plant. Increase the size of the container an inch or two each time. If you tend to overwater your plants, get an unglazed terra cotta pot since it’s porous and allows water to evaporate through the walls. If you tend to forget to water your plants, you might want to get glazed clay, plastic, or fiberglass pots. Repot your plant in spring or early summer during its active growing season. Water it thoroughly the day or two before repotting; it lessens the stress on the plant.
Overwintering
All calathea plants are tropical and will not survive a frost or freezing winter. As the temperatures begin to cool, prepare to bring your plant indoors to a bright spot with indirect sun by getting the plant used to indoor life slowly—only two hours a day at first, then increase by an hour each day. Keep the plant away from drafts and heaters. Keep the humidity high around the plant and mist the plant, if necessary. Once the outdoor climate warms again, gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor life by bringing the plant out for two hours a day, then increasing by an hour each day. Temperature shifts are shocking for this plant and may cause a few leaves to drop.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Because they prefer a high humidity environment, fungus gnats can occasionally be a problem for calathea 'White Fusion.' They won't do any significant damage, but they are unsightly and not particularly pleasant. Apply neem oil to the leaves as a natural deterrent. Other common pests include aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale. You can treat each with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Calathea plants tend to get overwatered because they require high humidity, making them prone to bacterial or fungal infections. If your plant develops Pseudomonas leaf spot, looking like white splotches on the leaves, you will have to destroy the plant since there is no treatment for this bacterial infection; and it can spread to other plants. To reduce the risk of getting this disease again, do not water from overhead—water the soil only (not the leaves) or water from underneath.
Root rot is a fungal disease that causes rapidly yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and the base of the plant turns brown and rots. Take the plant out of the pot and inspect the roots below the soil line to treat root rot. Yellow roots are fine, but if browning, you must treat rotting roots immediately. Using sterile pruning snips or a knife, cut away any brown or mushy roots and discard them. Wash the pot in warm soapy water. Replace the soil with fresh, well-draining soil. Treat the place where the root was cut with an antifungal and plant it in the fresh soil. Keep the soil loose in the container so the roots can breathe.
How to Get Calathea 'White Fusion' to Bloom
Calathea 'White Fusion' produces small flowers when it reaches maturity, usually in the spring or summer. But when calathea are grown indoors, they very rarely bloom. If you replicate and maintain their ideal conditions indoors, then you might be rewarded with a bloom to let you know that you have figured out the secret to their growing success. However, the flowers are not much to look at and have no fragrance.
Common Problems With Calathea 'White Fusion'
Calathea plants of all types require a moderate amount of care. They are sensitive about their humidity, temperature, drafts, water level, and lighting. When any of these variables are out of balance, the plant becomes prone to growth issues or health problems.
Leaves Turning Brown
Leaves turn yellow, brown, or die when calathea white fusion is overwatered. Dead calathea white fusion leaves should be removed immediately so that the plant doesn't start to rot, smell bad, and invite fungus. The leaves of calathea 'White Fusion' may turn brown and droop or fall off if they are placed too close to a window or in direct sunlight. Move the plant further away from the window to protect the plant's delicate leaves.
Leaves Wilting or Drooping
When calatheas need more water, the leaves will wilt, curl, or droop downward from the main stalk. Increase water frequency or volume. You can also mist the plant's leaves or invest in a small humidifier to give the plant more moisture.
Leaf Patterns Disappearing
When this plant gets overexposed to the sun, it will produce more chlorophyll, making the green coloration in the leaf more dominant. Find a shadier spot with filtered or dappled light to fix this situation.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月29日
All cactus plants are members of the Cactaceae family, and there are thousands of species in all. There are two large groups of cacti grown as houseplants: desert cacti and forest cacti. Both are popular and familiar, and both can thrive indoors with relatively little maintenance. Cactus plants come in many sizes, but most indoor varieties are small to moderate,
Desert cacti are the more "traditional" cacti, usually covered with spines or hair and often growing in paddles, balls, or obelisks. Forest cacti grow in wooded areas, ranging from temperate forests to subtropical and tropical regions. The most well-known forest cacti may be the Christmas cactus, which is native to Brazil, and blooms in red, pink, purple, and even yellow. Both desert and forest cacti are slow-growing and boast beautiful blooms, but they have very different growing habits.
Botanical Name Cactaceae
Common Name Cactus, desert cactus, forest cactus
Plant Type Succulents (with some exceptions)
Mature Size Varies depending on variety
Sun Exposure Some direct sun; quantity varies depending on variety
Soil Type Well-draining, sandy soil
Soil pH 5.5-7
Bloom Time Varies
Flower Color Varies
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Deserts and rainforests around the world
Indoor Cactus Care
Desert cacti have a unique, stark beauty, and some of them feature the most beautiful flowers. Growing desert cacti is not difficult. These are among the toughest of all houseplants. There are dozens of kinds of desert cacti on the market and some species will bloom after three or four years in cultivation; others will take longer or never bloom indoors.
Forest cacti grow in tropical and subtropical regions throughout the world. They are often climbing or epiphytic plants that cling to trees and can make excellent hanging plants.
Light
Strong light is essential for healthy desert cacti, especially in the winter. Some species may scorch in direct summer sun if they haven't been hardened off first.
Forest cacti like bright, but not direct, sunlight. Move them outside during the summer.
Soil
Pot desert cactus into a fast-draining cacti mix. If one is not available, amend the regular potting soil with inorganic agents like sand or perlite to increase drainage and aeration. Cacti are slow-growing plants and will rarely need repotting. Also, remember that many species of cacti will bloom better when they are slightly under-potted.
For forest cactus, use a regular potting mix. Repot at the beginning of the growing season.
Water
In the spring and summer, when your desert cactus is actively growing and blooming or both, water whenever the compost begins to dry. During these waterings, make sure the plant is thoroughly watered. During the winter rest period, nearly cease watering. Only water if the plant begins to shrivel. The most common mistake with desert cacti is overwatering in the winter, which will cause rot either at the base of the plant or the tips of the growing areas. If the rot is advanced, it might be necessary to start new plants from cuttings or discard the whole plant.
Water your forest cactus as a normal houseplant during the summer months and when the buds begin to show. During the resting period, only water when the soil is dry to the touch. As with succulents and desert cacti, forest cactus should not be watered heavily during the rest period. Root rot will result. Advanced root rot can only be treated by taking new cuttings and starting over.
Temperature and Humidity
During the active growth period, desert cacti prefer hot, dry temperatures, ranging from 70-80 F In the winter, the plants prefer a cooler period, down to 55 F. In their desert habitats, many cacti are accustomed to very chilly nights. You must protect them from very cold winter drafts.
Forest cacti are somewhat less picky about temperature; during the growing season, they have a wide range, from 55-70 F. During the rest period, a colder spell of 50 F is essential.
Fertilizer
For desert cactus, use a cacti fertilizer during the growing season. Some growers have poor results with standard fertilizers, so it's probably worth it to seek out a specialized cacti fertilizer.
For forest cactus, fertilize during the growing season with a standard fertilizer. Reduce fertilizer during the growing season.
Indoor Cactus Varieties
'Bunny ear' has "bunny" shaped ears and white flowers. Bunny ear is a desert cactus.
'Old lady' has hair and plenty of spines, and looks like a pincushion. It's a desert cactus.
'Easter' offers bright, colorful blooms. Easter is a forest cactus.
'Star' features a star-shaped mound and yellow flowers. Star is a desert cactus.
Pruning
Most cacti don't need pruning, just the removal of dead or damaged growth with clean, sharp garden shears. We strongly suggest wearing protective gardening gloves while you perform this task.
Propagating Indoor Cactus Plants
If your cacti produce offshoots, you can propagate them. First, make sure you a have clean, sharp, sterile knife. Next, put on protective gloves to protect yourself: You do not want to get pierced by a cactus spine.
Slice off the offshoot as close to the base as possible. Let it sit in a dry place for a few days, giving it time to callus over the cut. Then, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and lay it flat on top of a good growing medium, we suggest potting mix for cacti and succulents, and mist often. Once it develops strong roots, it can be planted in its own pot.
How to Grow Indoor Cacti From Seed
Growing both desert and forest cactus plants from seed takes patience: these are very slow-growing plants. But if you insist, you can either collect seeds from a cactus that's bloomed or buy packaged seeds. The seeds may need to be stratified before planting.
Prepare a potting mix for cacti and succulents, filled with perlite and sand. Plant seeds as deep as they are wide, and cover with a thin later of either sand or the cacti potting mix. Water lightly, cover with plastic, and sit in a bright location (but not direct sun). Most cacti will germinate in about three weeks, and once they do you can remove the plastic covering during the day. In about six months, seedlings should be ready for their own pots.
Potting and Repotting Indoor Cactus Plants
Cacti should be repotted when they need fresh soil (most are fine being pot-bound). To repot both forest and desert cacti, start by putting on a pair of protective gloves. Remove your plant from its current pot, and use a clean trowel to loosen the roots. Fill the bottom of a terra-cotta pot with fast-draining cacti potting mix (for desert cacti), or regular potting mix (for forest cacti). Add your plant, spoon in the potting mix around the sides, and use a stick-shaped tool—a chopstick works—to push the soil down. Water lightly.
Common Pests and Diseases
All types of cactus can be prone to pests including mealybugs, scales, fungus gnats, and spider mites.1 In most cases, it's possible to carefully wash these pests off of plants using cotton swabs and water.
Desert cacti are the more "traditional" cacti, usually covered with spines or hair and often growing in paddles, balls, or obelisks. Forest cacti grow in wooded areas, ranging from temperate forests to subtropical and tropical regions. The most well-known forest cacti may be the Christmas cactus, which is native to Brazil, and blooms in red, pink, purple, and even yellow. Both desert and forest cacti are slow-growing and boast beautiful blooms, but they have very different growing habits.
Botanical Name Cactaceae
Common Name Cactus, desert cactus, forest cactus
Plant Type Succulents (with some exceptions)
Mature Size Varies depending on variety
Sun Exposure Some direct sun; quantity varies depending on variety
Soil Type Well-draining, sandy soil
Soil pH 5.5-7
Bloom Time Varies
Flower Color Varies
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Deserts and rainforests around the world
Indoor Cactus Care
Desert cacti have a unique, stark beauty, and some of them feature the most beautiful flowers. Growing desert cacti is not difficult. These are among the toughest of all houseplants. There are dozens of kinds of desert cacti on the market and some species will bloom after three or four years in cultivation; others will take longer or never bloom indoors.
Forest cacti grow in tropical and subtropical regions throughout the world. They are often climbing or epiphytic plants that cling to trees and can make excellent hanging plants.
Light
Strong light is essential for healthy desert cacti, especially in the winter. Some species may scorch in direct summer sun if they haven't been hardened off first.
Forest cacti like bright, but not direct, sunlight. Move them outside during the summer.
Soil
Pot desert cactus into a fast-draining cacti mix. If one is not available, amend the regular potting soil with inorganic agents like sand or perlite to increase drainage and aeration. Cacti are slow-growing plants and will rarely need repotting. Also, remember that many species of cacti will bloom better when they are slightly under-potted.
For forest cactus, use a regular potting mix. Repot at the beginning of the growing season.
Water
In the spring and summer, when your desert cactus is actively growing and blooming or both, water whenever the compost begins to dry. During these waterings, make sure the plant is thoroughly watered. During the winter rest period, nearly cease watering. Only water if the plant begins to shrivel. The most common mistake with desert cacti is overwatering in the winter, which will cause rot either at the base of the plant or the tips of the growing areas. If the rot is advanced, it might be necessary to start new plants from cuttings or discard the whole plant.
Water your forest cactus as a normal houseplant during the summer months and when the buds begin to show. During the resting period, only water when the soil is dry to the touch. As with succulents and desert cacti, forest cactus should not be watered heavily during the rest period. Root rot will result. Advanced root rot can only be treated by taking new cuttings and starting over.
Temperature and Humidity
During the active growth period, desert cacti prefer hot, dry temperatures, ranging from 70-80 F In the winter, the plants prefer a cooler period, down to 55 F. In their desert habitats, many cacti are accustomed to very chilly nights. You must protect them from very cold winter drafts.
Forest cacti are somewhat less picky about temperature; during the growing season, they have a wide range, from 55-70 F. During the rest period, a colder spell of 50 F is essential.
Fertilizer
For desert cactus, use a cacti fertilizer during the growing season. Some growers have poor results with standard fertilizers, so it's probably worth it to seek out a specialized cacti fertilizer.
For forest cactus, fertilize during the growing season with a standard fertilizer. Reduce fertilizer during the growing season.
Indoor Cactus Varieties
'Bunny ear' has "bunny" shaped ears and white flowers. Bunny ear is a desert cactus.
'Old lady' has hair and plenty of spines, and looks like a pincushion. It's a desert cactus.
'Easter' offers bright, colorful blooms. Easter is a forest cactus.
'Star' features a star-shaped mound and yellow flowers. Star is a desert cactus.
Pruning
Most cacti don't need pruning, just the removal of dead or damaged growth with clean, sharp garden shears. We strongly suggest wearing protective gardening gloves while you perform this task.
Propagating Indoor Cactus Plants
If your cacti produce offshoots, you can propagate them. First, make sure you a have clean, sharp, sterile knife. Next, put on protective gloves to protect yourself: You do not want to get pierced by a cactus spine.
Slice off the offshoot as close to the base as possible. Let it sit in a dry place for a few days, giving it time to callus over the cut. Then, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and lay it flat on top of a good growing medium, we suggest potting mix for cacti and succulents, and mist often. Once it develops strong roots, it can be planted in its own pot.
How to Grow Indoor Cacti From Seed
Growing both desert and forest cactus plants from seed takes patience: these are very slow-growing plants. But if you insist, you can either collect seeds from a cactus that's bloomed or buy packaged seeds. The seeds may need to be stratified before planting.
Prepare a potting mix for cacti and succulents, filled with perlite and sand. Plant seeds as deep as they are wide, and cover with a thin later of either sand or the cacti potting mix. Water lightly, cover with plastic, and sit in a bright location (but not direct sun). Most cacti will germinate in about three weeks, and once they do you can remove the plastic covering during the day. In about six months, seedlings should be ready for their own pots.
Potting and Repotting Indoor Cactus Plants
Cacti should be repotted when they need fresh soil (most are fine being pot-bound). To repot both forest and desert cacti, start by putting on a pair of protective gloves. Remove your plant from its current pot, and use a clean trowel to loosen the roots. Fill the bottom of a terra-cotta pot with fast-draining cacti potting mix (for desert cacti), or regular potting mix (for forest cacti). Add your plant, spoon in the potting mix around the sides, and use a stick-shaped tool—a chopstick works—to push the soil down. Water lightly.
Common Pests and Diseases
All types of cactus can be prone to pests including mealybugs, scales, fungus gnats, and spider mites.1 In most cases, it's possible to carefully wash these pests off of plants using cotton swabs and water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月07日
If you are unfamiliar with Tillandsia or Tillys, as they are affectionately called by air plant aficionados, this article is going to introduce you to one of the genera’s most popular species.
Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this.
The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name.
The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant.
Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option.
For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants.
Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa
Common Name Bulbous Air Plant
Plant Type perennial herbaceous
Mature Size 4–7 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade
Soil Type None
Soil pH None
Bloom Time Once per lifetime
Flower Color Violet
Hardiness Zones 9–11
Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care
Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium.
Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this.
The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name.
The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant.
Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option.
For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants.
Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa
Common Name Bulbous Air Plant
Plant Type perennial herbaceous
Mature Size 4–7 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade
Soil Type None
Soil pH None
Bloom Time Once per lifetime
Flower Color Violet
Hardiness Zones 9–11
Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care
Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium.
Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月30日
Broom plants are small- to medium-sized shrubs with evergreen or deciduous foliage. Leaves are green and small, usually lanceolate. The two main species that share the common name Broom are Cytisus and Genista. Both look very similar. The main difference is Genistas are more tolerant of lime in water and soil. From the Fabaceae (legume) or Leguminosae (pea) family, broom plants bear pea-like flowers in shades of yellow as well as many others. It grows quickly in a lax, bushy habit. One quite common sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus syn. Genista racemosa) is often found along highways on the West Coast of the United States.
Some gardeners regard the broom plant to be an invasive weed, while others favor this attractive fast-spreading plant for its airy feel and scented summer blossoms, which attract many pollinators.
Botanical Name Cytisus spp. and Genista spp.
Common Names Broom, Broom Plant, Sweet Broom
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 5-6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained, loam, poor
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, cream, crimson, brown-red, orange, rose, mauve, lavender
Hardiness Zones 5-8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans
Broom Plant Care
Broom plants can be used in a variety of areas in your landscape thanks to their varying heights and colorful displays. For example, brooms will display pops of color in the spring and summer which can contrast nicely when planted in front of other green shrubs. Or, use taller varieties of broom plants as a hedge or border. The dwarf varieties of brooms look beautifully nestled as mass plantings in a rock garden.
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Broom plants like workable, well-draining soil that's prepared in an open, sunny locations. The plants will tolerate wind, poor soil, and even rocks. This wild shrub will thrive throughout drought and cold for years to come.
Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.v
Some gardeners regard the broom plant to be an invasive weed, while others favor this attractive fast-spreading plant for its airy feel and scented summer blossoms, which attract many pollinators.
Botanical Name Cytisus spp. and Genista spp.
Common Names Broom, Broom Plant, Sweet Broom
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 6-8 ft. tall, 5-6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained, loam, poor
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Yellow, cream, crimson, brown-red, orange, rose, mauve, lavender
Hardiness Zones 5-8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Toxic to cats, dogs, and humans
Broom Plant Care
Broom plants can be used in a variety of areas in your landscape thanks to their varying heights and colorful displays. For example, brooms will display pops of color in the spring and summer which can contrast nicely when planted in front of other green shrubs. Or, use taller varieties of broom plants as a hedge or border. The dwarf varieties of brooms look beautifully nestled as mass plantings in a rock garden.
v
Broom plants like workable, well-draining soil that's prepared in an open, sunny locations. The plants will tolerate wind, poor soil, and even rocks. This wild shrub will thrive throughout drought and cold for years to come.
Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.Light
Brooms grow best in an open area with full sun, though they will tolerate some shade. Follow the light and location directions for the specific variety. Overall, too much shade tends to make broom plants leggy with fewer blooms.
Soil
Establish in well-drained loam or poor soil (clay, sand, or loam). Acidic soil is best. Cytisus dislikes alkaline/chalky soils and Genista tolerates lime more easily. Sweet broom can thrive in poor soil, through drought and neglect, and can even fix the nitrogen in the soil with fibrous, fast-growing stabilizing roots.
Mulch alkaline soil in the spring with ericaceous compost.
Water
Water regularly for the first few months if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil moist. Maintain moisture in its first year to establish roots. Give an inch of water each week during its first summer and during heat or drought. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Sweet broom benefits from habitual watering if the location is dry and the soil is poor.
Temperature and Humidity
Sweet broom performs best in conditions that would cause many other flowering shrubs to fail. It will bloom as early as late winter and through the early spring months in the cool temperatures of USDA Zones 8-10. Temperatures between 35 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the autumn and winter months encourage blooming.
Apply a 2-inch layer of lightweight shredded bark mulch to keep the roots cool and the soil moist. This will also provide a layer of insulation against the hot summer sun. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the base.
Is Broom Plant Toxic?
These plants can be problematic to pets such as dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting large quantities could impact the heart or central nervous system of a pet because of the toxic alkaloids they contain. The alkaloids, cytisine and sparteine, are closely related to nicotine.
Symptoms of Poisoning
Symptoms of cytisine poisoning include:
Vomiting
Convulsions
Chest pain
Potential death
Sparteine is a class 1a antiarrhythmic agent, acting as a sodium channel blocker and interfering with the natural rhythm of the heart. Symptoms of sparteine poisoning include:
Abdominal discomfort
Diarrhea
Incoordination
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Nausea
Numbness
Weakness
Pregnant women should avoid consuming this plant because it may also induce contractions.
Broom Plant Varieties
Cytisus Plant Varieties
Cytisus 'Ardoinii' grows a humble 5 inches tall. This dwarf, prostrate alpine shrub plentifully blooms in yellow every spring.
Cytisus x kewensis reaches 2 feet tall and is ideal for rock gardens. This wide, low-growing shrub displays pale yellow to creamy white flowers in spring.
Cytisus ‘Lena’ is another dwarf variety and grows 4 feet tall. Foliage is deep green and flowers are ruby red and yellow through spring and early summer. This compact variety is sometimes sold as C. 'Volcano.'
Cytisus x praecox (Warminster Broom) grows to 5 feet tall offering pale yellow flowers in early May.
Cytisus 'Burkwoodii' reaches between 5 and 7 feet tall. It has crimson flowers in late spring.
Cytisus scoparius (common broom) puts on a long show of yellow flowers on its 5-foot reach from May to June. Modern hybrids offer a wide range of colors. 'Andreanus' has deep brown-red and yellow flowers. 'Cornish Cream' has ivory cream and yellow flowers. 'Goldfinch' is crimson and yellow with pink and yellow wings. 'Killiney Red' is a smaller, compact variety with red blooms.
Cytisus racemosus nana (dwarf yellow broom) has so many yellow flowers from spring to summer they nearly cover the whole plant. Good for creating a hedge in dry conditions, this 10-foot plant is also known as hedge broom. The dwarf variety reaches about 5 feet tall and also grows well in containers.
Cytisus 'Battandieri' grows 15 feet tall. Also known as pineapple broom or Moroccan broom, its bright yellow flowers produce a distinct pineapple scent from May to June. It is not particularly broom-shaped, formed more like a medium woody shrub that can be trained as a small tree. Protect from severe winter conditions by growing it against a southeast- or west-facing wall. Give it lots of sunshine.
Genista Plant Varieties
Genista lydia (Lydian broom) grows 2 feet tall and spreads 3 feet. Its green arching stems are covered with golden yellow flowers in May and June.
Genista hispanica (Spanish gorse) reaches 3 feet tall and spreads at least 7 feet wide. Golden flowers cover this dense, spiny shrub in June and July.
Genista aetnensis (Mount Etna broom) grows 10 feet tall and spreads 8 feet wide with linear leaves and yellow flowers that bloom in July.
Pruning
This low-maintenance plant usually does well without pruning, but because many brooms have relatively short lives, pruning can extend their line span. There are slight differences in pruning Cytisus and Genistas.
Pruning Cytisus
Prune Cytisus varieties every year after they have stopped flowering.
When pruning sweet broom (Cytisus racemosus), timing is of the essence. Flowers come on old wood and pruning at the wrong time could prevent or delay blooming. Prune in late spring or summer after bloom season is over. Do not prune in autumn or winter. Give the plant enough time to produce mature wood so that it will flower in spring again. Use very sharp, sterilized pruning shears to cut the plant back by a third. Cut each time at a 45-degree angle. Cutting straight across will cause the stem to hold rainwater and rot.
Consider pineapple broom (Cytisus battandieri) as more of a woody shrub by removing any dead or damaged shoots after it stops flowering.
Pruning Genistas
Pruning of Genistas can be more complicated. For example:
Genista aetnensis can be cut back quite a few times each season to encourage bushy growth.
Genista hispanica can be lightly sheared after it is finished flowering.
Genista lydia does not need to be pruned at all.
Propagating Broom Plant
Be certain to transplant cuttings in the spring when they reach a few inches tall because their root systems run deep and aren't always happy to be disturbed.
Clip 3-inch cuttings below a leaf node that are especially ripe and healthy off of semi-mature wood in July or August; don't take cuttings any earlier or they may not root.
Dip the bottom in rooting hormone.
Place in flats filled with moist, well-draining potting compost.
Keep moist while rooting the cuttings slowly in a cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long as the roots will grow deep and the plant will resent the transplant.
How to Grow Broom Plant From Seed
Harvest and sow seeds when the pods turn black which means they're ripe. Note that germination may not happen with every fussy broom plant seed.
Soak seeds in hot water for about 24 hours before sowing.
Use pots or flats filled with sandy soil.
Germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit (indoors in March or outdoors in April depending on the climate).
Cover early seeds or seedlings with a fabric or cold frame.
Plant in the spring, but don't wait too long because the roots will grow long and the plant does not do well when transplanted at a late stage.
Common Pests & Diseases
Webworms are the most common issue to look out for. They tend to overwinter in old debris, so rake the area around the plant completely clean. Broom plants are also susceptible to gall mites, an attack caused by fungus dieback; it will result in stunted growth, which is sometimes desired where the plant is considered invasive.v
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月22日
The Buxus genus includes about 70 species of slow-growing broadleaf evergreens. Most of the garden forms are cultivars or hybrids of two species— B. sempervirens (common box) and B. microphylla (Japanese box). Boxwoods are typically large shrubs or small trees, but most of the varieties used in modern landscaping are dwarf varieties, such as B. sempervirens 'Suffruticosa', a popular plant for hedges and topiaries. Another dwarf variety is the Korean (Buxus sinica var. insularis). It reaches a mature height of just two feet tall (with a slightly greater spread). These dwarf boxwood shrubs are prized for their densely packed, light-green leaves and rounded, compact growth habit.
Botanical Name Buxus spp.
Common Names Boxwood, English boxwood, box
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size Varies by species; dwarf varieties are typically 2 to 8 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium moisture loamy soil
Soil pH 6.8 to 7.5
Bloom Time April to May
Flower Color Green to creamy yellow (flowers are not significant)
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (depends on species and variety)
Native Area Southern Europe, Asia
Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Boxwood Shrubs
Boxwoods are best planted in loamy soil in a full-sun to part-shade location, preferably in an area somewhat sheltered from winds. Their roots are shallow, so the soil must be protected from the heat. Maintain a layer of organic garden mulch, three inches thick, around each plant. Start mulching 2 inches out from the trunk—as a general rule, it is bad to mulch right up against the trunk of a bush or tree, because it invites pests and diseases—and work your way about one foot outwards, around the whole circumference, space permitting.
When grown as a hedge or formal screen, the primary maintenance for the shrubs will be in regular pruning, though this will not be necessary if you are using them as specimen plantings.
Light
Boxwoods will take full sun to partial shade, but planting them in an area bathed in dappled shade for the hottest part of the afternoon is preferable. When sheltered by trees, the roots of dwarf boxwoods will profit from the cooler soil temperatures.
Soil
Boxwood shrubs require well-drained soils, or they will suffer from root rot. Although they may tolerate soils with a lower pH, certified soil scientist, Victoria Smith notes that they prefer a soil pH in the 6.8 to 7.5 range.
Water
For the first two years, boxwoods require deep weekly watering. Avoid shallow watering, since moisture will not reach the deepest roots. Mature plants will thrive with a deep watering every 2 to 4 weeks.
Temperature and Humidity
Boxwoods typically thrive in the climate conditions in zones 6 to 8. In very hot summer weather, the shrubs will appreciate more water and shade. Zone 5 gardeners may find that stem tips die back in cold weather.
Fertilizer
Fertilize with an all-purpose fertilizer in spring prior to the emergence of new growth.
Propagating Boxwood Shrubs
Boxwood is best propagated by rooting some stem cuttings. In midsummer, cut 3- to 4-inch lengths of stem tips of new growth. Remove the lower leaves and scape the bark from one side of the cutting. Bury the ends of the cuttings in a pot filled with a mixture of sand, peat moss, and vermiculite. Moisten the potting medium, place the pot in a sealed plastic bag, and set it in a bright location. Check the moisture daily, and mist whenever the cutting is dry. Check for roots every few days by tugging on the cutting.
When the roots are sufficiently developed, remove the pot from the plastic bag and transplant the cutting into another container filled with a rich potting mix. Continue to grow the plant in a sunny window until outdoor planting time the following spring.
Pruning Boxwood Shrubs
Although they are known for their tolerance for hard pruning, most boxwoods will form a nice informal shape without much pruning at all. Only occasional pruning is required to clean out dead branches or those that are twisted together.
When pruning hard for shape, the trimming can be done almost any time during the growing season, though it should be avoided in late fall to avoid winter bronzing.
Varieties of Boxwood
There are many kinds of boxwoods, and the best plant for you depends on your particular landscaping needs.
Buxus sempervirons 'Suffruticosa' cultivars are favored in gardens because they grow more slowly. The growth habit is tighter and more compact than the 'Arborescens' cultivars. These shrubs grow to 2 to 3 feet in height with a 2- to 4-foot spread.
B sempervirens' Arborescens' is a considerably larger, faster-growing plant, growing as tall as 20 feet with a spread of 8 to 10 feet.
B. sempervirens 'Monrue Green Tower' is a columnar form, 9 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet in spread. It is great for a tall screen or for sculpting topiary use. Two plants can be used to flank an entryway.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, the Japanese boxwood, is one of the most popular shrubs for low hedges. It is also preferred where a more drought-tolerant shrub is needed. It is for zones 6 to 9 and has mature dimensions of 6 to 8 feet tall by 10 to 15 feet wide. Japanese boxwoods figure prominently at a number of historic sites in the Far East.
B. microphylla japonica 'Winter Gem' is 4 to 6 feet tall with a similar spread. The cultivar name comes from the pleasing gold and bronze tinges of its foliage in winter.
B. microphylla japonica 'Golden Triumph' is 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide; it is valued for its variegated leaves.
Common Pests/Diseases
A common problem for boxwood shrubs is "winter bronzing," a shift to reddish-brown or yellowish foliage color caused by winter exposure to wind and sun. One way to address the problem is to spray an anti-desiccant on the shrubs in late November and again in late January and to make sure your plants are watered sufficiently throughout the growing season. Also, you can build a structure around your bushes to shelter them from the wind and sun in winter. But some gardeners do not mind—or even actually value—the winter bronzing on the foliage.
Leafminer, boxwood mite, and boxwood psyllid are common pests. The damage is disfiguring but not fatal, and the pests can be treated with horticultural oils. In the deep South, nematodes are of concern.
Boxwoods can be susceptible to fungal blights and leaf spot, and root rot can also be a problem in poorly-drained soils.
In the northern part of the hardiness range, new growth is susceptible to winter damage.
Landscape Uses
While people occasionally use boxwood shrubs as specimen plants in their landscape-design work, they are more often grouped together in foundation plantings or to form hedges. Dwarf boxwoods are famous for their use in formal landscape design. They respond well to pruning, which makes them popular as knot-garden plants, as topiary plants, and as bonsai plants. Wall germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) is used in a similar way.
Other uses for these bushes extend beyond the life of the plant. As a cut evergreen for the holiday season, sprigs of it are used in wreaths, garlands, kissing balls, and topiary "tree" arrangements.
Botanical Name Buxus spp.
Common Names Boxwood, English boxwood, box
Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub
Mature Size Varies by species; dwarf varieties are typically 2 to 8 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Medium moisture loamy soil
Soil pH 6.8 to 7.5
Bloom Time April to May
Flower Color Green to creamy yellow (flowers are not significant)
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (depends on species and variety)
Native Area Southern Europe, Asia
Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Boxwood Shrubs
Boxwoods are best planted in loamy soil in a full-sun to part-shade location, preferably in an area somewhat sheltered from winds. Their roots are shallow, so the soil must be protected from the heat. Maintain a layer of organic garden mulch, three inches thick, around each plant. Start mulching 2 inches out from the trunk—as a general rule, it is bad to mulch right up against the trunk of a bush or tree, because it invites pests and diseases—and work your way about one foot outwards, around the whole circumference, space permitting.
When grown as a hedge or formal screen, the primary maintenance for the shrubs will be in regular pruning, though this will not be necessary if you are using them as specimen plantings.
Light
Boxwoods will take full sun to partial shade, but planting them in an area bathed in dappled shade for the hottest part of the afternoon is preferable. When sheltered by trees, the roots of dwarf boxwoods will profit from the cooler soil temperatures.
Soil
Boxwood shrubs require well-drained soils, or they will suffer from root rot. Although they may tolerate soils with a lower pH, certified soil scientist, Victoria Smith notes that they prefer a soil pH in the 6.8 to 7.5 range.
Water
For the first two years, boxwoods require deep weekly watering. Avoid shallow watering, since moisture will not reach the deepest roots. Mature plants will thrive with a deep watering every 2 to 4 weeks.
Temperature and Humidity
Boxwoods typically thrive in the climate conditions in zones 6 to 8. In very hot summer weather, the shrubs will appreciate more water and shade. Zone 5 gardeners may find that stem tips die back in cold weather.
Fertilizer
Fertilize with an all-purpose fertilizer in spring prior to the emergence of new growth.
Propagating Boxwood Shrubs
Boxwood is best propagated by rooting some stem cuttings. In midsummer, cut 3- to 4-inch lengths of stem tips of new growth. Remove the lower leaves and scape the bark from one side of the cutting. Bury the ends of the cuttings in a pot filled with a mixture of sand, peat moss, and vermiculite. Moisten the potting medium, place the pot in a sealed plastic bag, and set it in a bright location. Check the moisture daily, and mist whenever the cutting is dry. Check for roots every few days by tugging on the cutting.
When the roots are sufficiently developed, remove the pot from the plastic bag and transplant the cutting into another container filled with a rich potting mix. Continue to grow the plant in a sunny window until outdoor planting time the following spring.
Pruning Boxwood Shrubs
Although they are known for their tolerance for hard pruning, most boxwoods will form a nice informal shape without much pruning at all. Only occasional pruning is required to clean out dead branches or those that are twisted together.
When pruning hard for shape, the trimming can be done almost any time during the growing season, though it should be avoided in late fall to avoid winter bronzing.
Varieties of Boxwood
There are many kinds of boxwoods, and the best plant for you depends on your particular landscaping needs.
Buxus sempervirons 'Suffruticosa' cultivars are favored in gardens because they grow more slowly. The growth habit is tighter and more compact than the 'Arborescens' cultivars. These shrubs grow to 2 to 3 feet in height with a 2- to 4-foot spread.
B sempervirens' Arborescens' is a considerably larger, faster-growing plant, growing as tall as 20 feet with a spread of 8 to 10 feet.
B. sempervirens 'Monrue Green Tower' is a columnar form, 9 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet in spread. It is great for a tall screen or for sculpting topiary use. Two plants can be used to flank an entryway.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, the Japanese boxwood, is one of the most popular shrubs for low hedges. It is also preferred where a more drought-tolerant shrub is needed. It is for zones 6 to 9 and has mature dimensions of 6 to 8 feet tall by 10 to 15 feet wide. Japanese boxwoods figure prominently at a number of historic sites in the Far East.
B. microphylla japonica 'Winter Gem' is 4 to 6 feet tall with a similar spread. The cultivar name comes from the pleasing gold and bronze tinges of its foliage in winter.
B. microphylla japonica 'Golden Triumph' is 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide; it is valued for its variegated leaves.
Common Pests/Diseases
A common problem for boxwood shrubs is "winter bronzing," a shift to reddish-brown or yellowish foliage color caused by winter exposure to wind and sun. One way to address the problem is to spray an anti-desiccant on the shrubs in late November and again in late January and to make sure your plants are watered sufficiently throughout the growing season. Also, you can build a structure around your bushes to shelter them from the wind and sun in winter. But some gardeners do not mind—or even actually value—the winter bronzing on the foliage.
Leafminer, boxwood mite, and boxwood psyllid are common pests. The damage is disfiguring but not fatal, and the pests can be treated with horticultural oils. In the deep South, nematodes are of concern.
Boxwoods can be susceptible to fungal blights and leaf spot, and root rot can also be a problem in poorly-drained soils.
In the northern part of the hardiness range, new growth is susceptible to winter damage.
Landscape Uses
While people occasionally use boxwood shrubs as specimen plants in their landscape-design work, they are more often grouped together in foundation plantings or to form hedges. Dwarf boxwoods are famous for their use in formal landscape design. They respond well to pruning, which makes them popular as knot-garden plants, as topiary plants, and as bonsai plants. Wall germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) is used in a similar way.
Other uses for these bushes extend beyond the life of the plant. As a cut evergreen for the holiday season, sprigs of it are used in wreaths, garlands, kissing balls, and topiary "tree" arrangements.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月16日
The Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), also known as the sword fern, is a popular fern species that grows in many tropical areas around the world. It is also commonly kept as a houseplant, especially because it doesn’t have high sunlight needs. The foliage of this fern remains evergreen. Its sword-shaped, blue-green fronds with many tiny leaflets are erect and arch as they grow larger. Like several other fern species, the Boston fern is a fairly slow grower and is best planted in the fall or spring.
Botanical Name Nephrolepis exaltata
Common Names Boston fern, sword fern, ladder fern, boss fern
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zone 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia
Boston Fern Care
Boston ferns appreciate a little TLC. They like warm and humid conditions. And they don’t enjoy temperature extremes, either outside or from drafts, air conditioners, and heating vents indoors. It’s important to maintain stable growing conditions for Boston ferns, as any element to their care that’s out of whack can quickly damage the plant.
Plan to water frequently to prevent the soil from drying out. And fertilize from spring to fall when the plant is actively growing. Regularly misting your fern or using other means to raise humidity also is typically a must unless you live in a very humid climate. While pruning typically isn't a major chore, you should remove dead fronds as needed to keep the plant looking attractive. Overall, these plants don't have any major pest or disease problems as long as their growing conditions are met.
Light
Boston ferns do best in bright, indirect light. Too much shade can result in sparse fronds that aren’t their typical bright color. And too much sun can burn the fronds. So both outdoors and indoors, make sure direct sunlight won’t hit your plant.
Soil
These ferns like organically rich, loamy soil with good drainage. Poorly drained soil can cause root rot and ultimately kill the plant. For container Boston fern plants, use a peat-based potting mix.
Water
To successfully grow Boston ferns, it is key to keep the soil lightly moist (but not soggy) at all times. If the soil begins to dry out, the fern’s foliage can quickly dry out and drop off the plant. During the fall and winter months, slightly reduce watering, as the plant is not actively growing. But if you notice the fronds getting dry, increase the amount of water you are giving the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Boston ferns prefer mild temperatures between roughly 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can’t tolerate either extreme heat or extreme cold. Temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit can harm them, as can temperatures below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. High humidity also is critical for Boston ferns. They thrive in humidity levels of above 80 percent. To raise the humidity around your fern, set it on a tray filled with water and pebbles. Also, regularly mist the plant. If it’s not getting enough humidity, the tips of the fronds will begin to turn brown, which can eventually overtake the whole frond (and plant) if the humidity doesn’t increase.
Fertilizer
From the spring to early fall, feed your Boston fern with a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month. No fertilization is necessary over the late fall and winter months.
Boston Fern Varieties
There are several varieties of Boston ferns that vary somewhat in appearance, including:
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Compacta': This is a shorter, more compact, and more upright version of the main species plant.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Florida Ruffle': A medium-size cultivar, it has feathery, ruffled fronds.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Golden Boston': Yellow-green fronds adorn this variety.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Rita's Gold': This is a compact plant with chartreuse fronds.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Fluffy Duffy': A small, dense fern, it has finely textured, feathery fronds.
Propagating Boston Ferns
Boston ferns are very easy plants to propagate by division. When repotting in the spring, carefully cut off a section of the fern with healthy roots attached. Even very small sections can become established as new plants with the proper care. Plant your division in fresh potting mix, and make sure to keep the soil lightly moist at all times. Also, keep the plant in a warm spot away from drafts and temperature fluctuations and out of direct sunlight. Once you feel resistance when gently pulling on the base of the fronds, you'll know it has taken root.
Potting and Repotting Boston Ferns
Pot Boston ferns in a container with ample drainage holes that's slightly larger than the plant's root ball. Once the roots are poking out of the soil, it's time to repot. Another telltale sign that the fern is out of space is if it's not growing as much as it normally does. Repotting is best done in the spring. Select just one container size up. Gently remove the fern from its old pot, and replant it at the same depth in the new pot using fresh potting mix.
Botanical Name Nephrolepis exaltata
Common Names Boston fern, sword fern, ladder fern, boss fern
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Non-flowering
Flower Color Non-flowering
Hardiness Zone 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia
Boston Fern Care
Boston ferns appreciate a little TLC. They like warm and humid conditions. And they don’t enjoy temperature extremes, either outside or from drafts, air conditioners, and heating vents indoors. It’s important to maintain stable growing conditions for Boston ferns, as any element to their care that’s out of whack can quickly damage the plant.
Plan to water frequently to prevent the soil from drying out. And fertilize from spring to fall when the plant is actively growing. Regularly misting your fern or using other means to raise humidity also is typically a must unless you live in a very humid climate. While pruning typically isn't a major chore, you should remove dead fronds as needed to keep the plant looking attractive. Overall, these plants don't have any major pest or disease problems as long as their growing conditions are met.
Light
Boston ferns do best in bright, indirect light. Too much shade can result in sparse fronds that aren’t their typical bright color. And too much sun can burn the fronds. So both outdoors and indoors, make sure direct sunlight won’t hit your plant.
Soil
These ferns like organically rich, loamy soil with good drainage. Poorly drained soil can cause root rot and ultimately kill the plant. For container Boston fern plants, use a peat-based potting mix.
Water
To successfully grow Boston ferns, it is key to keep the soil lightly moist (but not soggy) at all times. If the soil begins to dry out, the fern’s foliage can quickly dry out and drop off the plant. During the fall and winter months, slightly reduce watering, as the plant is not actively growing. But if you notice the fronds getting dry, increase the amount of water you are giving the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Boston ferns prefer mild temperatures between roughly 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can’t tolerate either extreme heat or extreme cold. Temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit can harm them, as can temperatures below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. High humidity also is critical for Boston ferns. They thrive in humidity levels of above 80 percent. To raise the humidity around your fern, set it on a tray filled with water and pebbles. Also, regularly mist the plant. If it’s not getting enough humidity, the tips of the fronds will begin to turn brown, which can eventually overtake the whole frond (and plant) if the humidity doesn’t increase.
Fertilizer
From the spring to early fall, feed your Boston fern with a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month. No fertilization is necessary over the late fall and winter months.
Boston Fern Varieties
There are several varieties of Boston ferns that vary somewhat in appearance, including:
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Compacta': This is a shorter, more compact, and more upright version of the main species plant.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Florida Ruffle': A medium-size cultivar, it has feathery, ruffled fronds.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Golden Boston': Yellow-green fronds adorn this variety.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Rita's Gold': This is a compact plant with chartreuse fronds.
Nephrolepis exaltata 'Fluffy Duffy': A small, dense fern, it has finely textured, feathery fronds.
Propagating Boston Ferns
Boston ferns are very easy plants to propagate by division. When repotting in the spring, carefully cut off a section of the fern with healthy roots attached. Even very small sections can become established as new plants with the proper care. Plant your division in fresh potting mix, and make sure to keep the soil lightly moist at all times. Also, keep the plant in a warm spot away from drafts and temperature fluctuations and out of direct sunlight. Once you feel resistance when gently pulling on the base of the fronds, you'll know it has taken root.
Potting and Repotting Boston Ferns
Pot Boston ferns in a container with ample drainage holes that's slightly larger than the plant's root ball. Once the roots are poking out of the soil, it's time to repot. Another telltale sign that the fern is out of space is if it's not growing as much as it normally does. Repotting is best done in the spring. Select just one container size up. Gently remove the fern from its old pot, and replant it at the same depth in the new pot using fresh potting mix.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月12日
Blueberries include several species of flowering, fruiting shrubs within the Vaccinium genus, all native to North America. Relatives within the Vaccinium genus include the bilberry, cranberry, huckleberry, and lingonberry. Blueberry bushes have pointed, oblong leaves that are leathery to the touch and turn a brilliant red in the fall. The flowers appear in clusters of small, white, bell-shaped blooms in the late spring, leading to deliciously edible berries that ripen from green to a deep purple-blue. Cultivated blueberries are continually being bred for higher yields, heat and cold tolerance, and better pest resistance. Still, some people prefer the blueberries that grow wild in forests and fields. Wild berries are smaller, but many people find them the sweetest to eat.
Blueberries are best planted in the early spring, and the shrubs have a slow to moderate growth rate. Three-year-old shrubs might produce a small harvest, but a meaningful harvest can take as long as six years.
Common Name Blueberry
Botanical Name Vaccinium spp.
Family Ericaceae
Plant Type Fruit, perennial
Size 1–8 ft. tall, 2–10 ft. wide (varies by species)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (4.0 to 5.5)
Bloom Time Spring
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA) (varies by species)
Native Area North America
How to Plant Blueberries
When to Plant
When selecting blueberry bushes, the best choice is bare-root plants that are 2 to 3 years old. Older plants suffer more transplant shock and will still take a few years to begin producing large harvests. Blueberry shrubs are generally planted in the early to mid-spring. In growing zones 6 and higher, they also can be planted in the late fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
Pick a spot that gets lots of sun but is sheltered from strong winds. Avoid a planting site that is close to tall trees or shrubs that might block the sunlight or compete for soil moisture and nutrients. Make sure the planting site has sharp soil drainage. You can mix some peat moss into your planting hole to keep the soil loose, acidic, and well-drained. Also, add a layer of mulch after planting. Evergreen wood chips, sawdust, and pine needles will help to keep the soil acidic. Blueberries also can be grown in containers as long as they get sufficient sunlight.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Blueberry plants should be spaced in a row about 4 to 5 feet apart; adjacent rows should be spaced 9 to 10 feet apart, which will provide plenty of room for harvesting. For bare-root plants, spread the roots out into a prepared hole, and then cover them with soil, making sure the root ball is no more than 1/2 inch below the soil surface. For container-grown blueberries, plant them about 1 inch deeper than they were in the nursery pot. Blueberry plants generally don't need any support structure on which to grow.
Blueberry Plant Care
Light
Blueberry plants need full sun to grow and fruit well. This means at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days.
Soil
Blueberries like very acidic soil with a soil pH in the range of 4.0 to 5.2.1 They also like soil that's rich in organic matter. If your garden has heavy clay soil, blueberries will fare better in raised beds where you can control the soil type. Sandy soil is preferable to dense clay.
To get the right soil pH for growing blueberries, it’s best to amend the soil the season before you intend to plant. Garden sulfur or aluminum sulfur can be mixed into the top 6 inches of soil to lower the pH as needed. If you have your soil tested at a garden center or your local extension office, they will be able to tell you how much sulfur you’ll need. It’s wise to retest your soil before actually planting to make sure you’ve achieved the results you were after. Continue amending and tweaking the soil periodically because soil tends to revert to its original pH.
Water
Be sure the plants get a deep watering at least once per week. Blueberries are shallow-rooted and need at least a couple of inches of water each week, more during dry spells.
Temperature and Humidity
The temperature needs of blueberry bushes vary according to the species. The traditional highbush types prefer humid air and a cold winter climate, but the types bred for Southern gardens do not tolerate freezing temperatures. Most types prefer protection from drying winds.
Fertilizer
Don’t fertilize your blueberries in their first year. The roots are sensitive to salt until the plants are established. Ammonium sulfate is usually used as a fertilizer for blueberries, as opposed to the aluminum sulfur used to lower the pH. But you can use any fertilizer for acid-loving plants, including blueberry food and azalea food.
It’s not uncommon for blueberry leaves to begin to yellow. Although this is usually a sign of iron deficiency, it is probably not caused by a lack of iron in the soil. More likely, this symptom is telling you that the soil pH is too high and the blueberry plants cannot access the iron that is already there. If you see yellowing progressing, have your soil pH tested and make adjustments as necessary.
Pollination
Blueberries can self-pollinate. But for best results, plant more than one cultivar. This will often result in a higher fruit yield and larger fruits.
Types of Blueberries
There are four main types of blueberry plants: highbush, lowbush, half-high, and rabbiteye. They are primarily classified by their size, and plant breeders continue to cultivate new varieties to improve their vigor. The main types include:
Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) is a roughly 6-foot shrub hardy from zone 4 to zone 7. This is the most common and most productive type of blueberry. Varieties good for cold winters include ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Herbert,’ ‘Jersey,’ and ‘Meader.’ Types known for big berries include ‘Berkeley,’ ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Coville,’ ‘Darrow,’ and ‘Herbert.’ There is also a variety that produces pink blueberries, 'Pink Lemonade'.
Southern highbush (hybrids of V. virgatum, V. corymbosum, or V. darrowii) is considered somewhat hard to grow. But several cultivars are popular for Southern gardens, including ‘Emerald,’ ‘Windsor,’ and ‘Springhigh.’ These are shorter, 3- to 6-foot-tall bushes with a 4- to 5-foot spread. They are grown in zones 7 to 10.
Lowbush (Vaccinium angustifolium) are bushes well suited for the coldest climates, as far north as zone 3. They have a much different growth habit from other types, growing only 1 foot or so and spreading in a creeping fashion. Native to the northeast U.S. and southern Canada, the berries have a waxy covering that makes the fruit look grayish. These are sometimes considered a "wild" blueberry, and there aren't many named cultivars available.
Half-high blueberries are a recent breeding development, including varieties developed by crossing highbush and lowbush species. Most of these grow 18 to 48 inches high. Popular cultivars include 'North Country,' 'Northblue,' and 'Northland.' The berries are typically a little less sweet than highbush blueberries, but they work well in pies, jams, and preserves.
Rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) was previously categorized as Vaccinium ashei. It is grown mostly in the southeastern U.S. Growing as high as 15 feet, it requires two or more varieties to pollinate correctly. Recommended varieties include ‘Powderblue,’ ‘Woodard,’ and ‘Brightwell.’ 'Delite' is another good late-bearing variety. Rabbiteye blueberries are good choices for gardens in zones 7 to 9.
Blueberries vs. Huckleberries
Blueberries and huckleberries come from the same genus. And the fruits might look similar on first glance. They’re both small and round with a blueish color. However, huckleberries tend to be more tart than blueberries, and their seeds are noticeably hard when you bite into them unlike blueberry seeds.
Harvesting Blueberries
Blueberries will typically be ready to harvest between June and August. Most blueberry plants will start to produce a small harvest by their third year, but they won’t produce fully until around their sixth year. Mature blueberry bushes produce around 8 quarts of berries per bush. It’s possible to extend your blueberry harvest by planting early, mid- and late-season varieties.
The only reliable way to know whether blueberries are ready to pick is to taste them. Blueberries are their sweetest if allowed to stay on the plant at least a week after turning blue. Ripe blueberries will readily come off the stem. Simply hold a container under berry clusters, and gently pick them off with your other hand to drop the fruits into the container. Put them in the refrigerator unwashed as soon as possible. They typically can keep up to a week when refrigerated. Wash them right before use. They can be eaten fresh or used in baked goods. They also can be frozen and will keep in the freezer for around six to 12 months.
How to Grow Blueberries in Pots
Blueberries are popular in home gardens because they can grow in a small space, even in containers. In fact, they are one of the easiest berries to grow in containers. Container growth is especially ideal if you don't have adequate soil conditions for blueberries. Use a container that’s at least 18 inches deep with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay pot is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls as well.
Use one container per plant, and choose a blueberry variety that remains fairly small. Select a potting mix made especially for acid-loving plants, and plant your blueberries at the same depth they were in the nursery pots. Keep the soil lightly moist but never soggy, and make sure the container gets plenty of light. Use a fertilizer made for acid-loving plants in the spring.
Blueberries are best planted in the early spring, and the shrubs have a slow to moderate growth rate. Three-year-old shrubs might produce a small harvest, but a meaningful harvest can take as long as six years.
Common Name Blueberry
Botanical Name Vaccinium spp.
Family Ericaceae
Plant Type Fruit, perennial
Size 1–8 ft. tall, 2–10 ft. wide (varies by species)
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (4.0 to 5.5)
Bloom Time Spring
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA) (varies by species)
Native Area North America
How to Plant Blueberries
When to Plant
When selecting blueberry bushes, the best choice is bare-root plants that are 2 to 3 years old. Older plants suffer more transplant shock and will still take a few years to begin producing large harvests. Blueberry shrubs are generally planted in the early to mid-spring. In growing zones 6 and higher, they also can be planted in the late fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
Pick a spot that gets lots of sun but is sheltered from strong winds. Avoid a planting site that is close to tall trees or shrubs that might block the sunlight or compete for soil moisture and nutrients. Make sure the planting site has sharp soil drainage. You can mix some peat moss into your planting hole to keep the soil loose, acidic, and well-drained. Also, add a layer of mulch after planting. Evergreen wood chips, sawdust, and pine needles will help to keep the soil acidic. Blueberries also can be grown in containers as long as they get sufficient sunlight.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Blueberry plants should be spaced in a row about 4 to 5 feet apart; adjacent rows should be spaced 9 to 10 feet apart, which will provide plenty of room for harvesting. For bare-root plants, spread the roots out into a prepared hole, and then cover them with soil, making sure the root ball is no more than 1/2 inch below the soil surface. For container-grown blueberries, plant them about 1 inch deeper than they were in the nursery pot. Blueberry plants generally don't need any support structure on which to grow.
Blueberry Plant Care
Light
Blueberry plants need full sun to grow and fruit well. This means at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days.
Soil
Blueberries like very acidic soil with a soil pH in the range of 4.0 to 5.2.1 They also like soil that's rich in organic matter. If your garden has heavy clay soil, blueberries will fare better in raised beds where you can control the soil type. Sandy soil is preferable to dense clay.
To get the right soil pH for growing blueberries, it’s best to amend the soil the season before you intend to plant. Garden sulfur or aluminum sulfur can be mixed into the top 6 inches of soil to lower the pH as needed. If you have your soil tested at a garden center or your local extension office, they will be able to tell you how much sulfur you’ll need. It’s wise to retest your soil before actually planting to make sure you’ve achieved the results you were after. Continue amending and tweaking the soil periodically because soil tends to revert to its original pH.
Water
Be sure the plants get a deep watering at least once per week. Blueberries are shallow-rooted and need at least a couple of inches of water each week, more during dry spells.
Temperature and Humidity
The temperature needs of blueberry bushes vary according to the species. The traditional highbush types prefer humid air and a cold winter climate, but the types bred for Southern gardens do not tolerate freezing temperatures. Most types prefer protection from drying winds.
Fertilizer
Don’t fertilize your blueberries in their first year. The roots are sensitive to salt until the plants are established. Ammonium sulfate is usually used as a fertilizer for blueberries, as opposed to the aluminum sulfur used to lower the pH. But you can use any fertilizer for acid-loving plants, including blueberry food and azalea food.
It’s not uncommon for blueberry leaves to begin to yellow. Although this is usually a sign of iron deficiency, it is probably not caused by a lack of iron in the soil. More likely, this symptom is telling you that the soil pH is too high and the blueberry plants cannot access the iron that is already there. If you see yellowing progressing, have your soil pH tested and make adjustments as necessary.
Pollination
Blueberries can self-pollinate. But for best results, plant more than one cultivar. This will often result in a higher fruit yield and larger fruits.
Types of Blueberries
There are four main types of blueberry plants: highbush, lowbush, half-high, and rabbiteye. They are primarily classified by their size, and plant breeders continue to cultivate new varieties to improve their vigor. The main types include:
Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) is a roughly 6-foot shrub hardy from zone 4 to zone 7. This is the most common and most productive type of blueberry. Varieties good for cold winters include ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Herbert,’ ‘Jersey,’ and ‘Meader.’ Types known for big berries include ‘Berkeley,’ ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Coville,’ ‘Darrow,’ and ‘Herbert.’ There is also a variety that produces pink blueberries, 'Pink Lemonade'.
Southern highbush (hybrids of V. virgatum, V. corymbosum, or V. darrowii) is considered somewhat hard to grow. But several cultivars are popular for Southern gardens, including ‘Emerald,’ ‘Windsor,’ and ‘Springhigh.’ These are shorter, 3- to 6-foot-tall bushes with a 4- to 5-foot spread. They are grown in zones 7 to 10.
Lowbush (Vaccinium angustifolium) are bushes well suited for the coldest climates, as far north as zone 3. They have a much different growth habit from other types, growing only 1 foot or so and spreading in a creeping fashion. Native to the northeast U.S. and southern Canada, the berries have a waxy covering that makes the fruit look grayish. These are sometimes considered a "wild" blueberry, and there aren't many named cultivars available.
Half-high blueberries are a recent breeding development, including varieties developed by crossing highbush and lowbush species. Most of these grow 18 to 48 inches high. Popular cultivars include 'North Country,' 'Northblue,' and 'Northland.' The berries are typically a little less sweet than highbush blueberries, but they work well in pies, jams, and preserves.
Rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) was previously categorized as Vaccinium ashei. It is grown mostly in the southeastern U.S. Growing as high as 15 feet, it requires two or more varieties to pollinate correctly. Recommended varieties include ‘Powderblue,’ ‘Woodard,’ and ‘Brightwell.’ 'Delite' is another good late-bearing variety. Rabbiteye blueberries are good choices for gardens in zones 7 to 9.
Blueberries vs. Huckleberries
Blueberries and huckleberries come from the same genus. And the fruits might look similar on first glance. They’re both small and round with a blueish color. However, huckleberries tend to be more tart than blueberries, and their seeds are noticeably hard when you bite into them unlike blueberry seeds.
Harvesting Blueberries
Blueberries will typically be ready to harvest between June and August. Most blueberry plants will start to produce a small harvest by their third year, but they won’t produce fully until around their sixth year. Mature blueberry bushes produce around 8 quarts of berries per bush. It’s possible to extend your blueberry harvest by planting early, mid- and late-season varieties.
The only reliable way to know whether blueberries are ready to pick is to taste them. Blueberries are their sweetest if allowed to stay on the plant at least a week after turning blue. Ripe blueberries will readily come off the stem. Simply hold a container under berry clusters, and gently pick them off with your other hand to drop the fruits into the container. Put them in the refrigerator unwashed as soon as possible. They typically can keep up to a week when refrigerated. Wash them right before use. They can be eaten fresh or used in baked goods. They also can be frozen and will keep in the freezer for around six to 12 months.
How to Grow Blueberries in Pots
Blueberries are popular in home gardens because they can grow in a small space, even in containers. In fact, they are one of the easiest berries to grow in containers. Container growth is especially ideal if you don't have adequate soil conditions for blueberries. Use a container that’s at least 18 inches deep with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay pot is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls as well.
Use one container per plant, and choose a blueberry variety that remains fairly small. Select a potting mix made especially for acid-loving plants, and plant your blueberries at the same depth they were in the nursery pots. Keep the soil lightly moist but never soggy, and make sure the container gets plenty of light. Use a fertilizer made for acid-loving plants in the spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月11日
Pilosocereus is a genus of cacti native to Mexico, the Caribbean, and Brazil. Containing many different species, Pilosocereus includes both cacti that are commonly used in cultivation and some that are so rare that they're almost unknown outside botanical sources. The most common houseplant in the genus is Pilosocereus pachycladus (also known as the blue column cactus), which large nurseries produce in bulk and sell wholesale.
This desert species has a branched form and grows fairly quickly, often adding between 1 and 2 feet of height a year. Those that flower do so at night and all are most easily identifiable by their attractive blue-green skin, which is complemented by bright yellow spines. Pilosocereus cacti are mostly tree-like, and their flowers are shaped like tubes and grow fleshy fruits. In cultivation, they are planted and grown year-round, mostly in greenhouses due to their large size and need for warmth in the winter. Their name derives from the Latin term for “hairy cereus,” thanks in part to their spiny aureoles, many of which have a golden tint.
Despite their large size, Pilosocereus cacti are commonly cultivated as domestic cacti in tropical areas due to their aesthetic beauty. Gardeners with the correct climate and enough space should consider plants from this genus for their landscape, while others can grow them on a smaller scale indoors.
Botanical Name Pilosocereus
Common Name Column cactus, blue torch cactus, woolly torch cactus
Plant Type Cactus
Mature Size 6–12 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, white-yellow
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Mexico, South America, Caribbean
Pilosocereus Cacti Care
Though there are different types of cacti in the Pilosocereus family, they all generally necessitate the same type of care (which is also very similar to most other cacti, too). If you don't live in an extremely warm, desert-like climate, your best bet is probably to grow your pilosocereus cacti indoors, where you can most easily achieve and maintain the proper growing conditions.
Light
Like most cacti, members of the Pilosocereus family need lots and lots of direct sunlight to flourish. The brighter the light, the better, and you should aim for between 10 and 12 hours a day. If you do have a varietal with blue skin, the more sun it gets, the more vibrant the color will be.
Soil
When it comes to planting your cacti, arguably the most important factor is a well-draining soil. In order for your Pilosocereus cacti to be happy, they should be kept in a soil mixture that is dry (like a combination of perlite, sand, and limestone) with some organic matter mixed in. In order to aid in drainage, you can also plant your cacti in a terracotta or clay pot, which will help wick additional moisture away from the soil and prevent rot.
Water
Weekly watering should be sufficient for the water needs of this cacti family. They need a solid supply of water during the summer, but make sure not to overwater them, which can cause rot. A good test is to stick your finger into the soil about a few inches down. If the soil is dry there, it's likely time to water.
Temperature and Humidity
Being a desert dweller, the Pilosocereus cacti family loves hot heat. They prefer consistent temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit and can tolerate triple-digit heat, so there's no need to worry if things are getting too warm for your cactus. On the other hand, Pilosocereus cannot withstand frost, cold, or freezing temperatures, so you should make sure its environment doesn't dip lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
This cactus family is already known to grow quickly, but a bit of added fertilizer can't hurt—in fact, it may help them grow even faster. Complementing their watering with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every few weeks during the growing season for best results. Be sure to use a balanced fertilizer like a 20-20-20 that's been diluted so it doesn't burn your cactus.
Pilosocereus Cacti Varieties
There are many interesting Pilosocereus cacti varieties, including the previously-mentioned Pilosocereus pachycladus (which is also listed by some sources as Pilosocereus azureus). For instance, Pilosocereus gounellei (also known as the Xique-xique cactus), is another Brazilian native with an interesting forked branching habit that can grow up to 14 feet tall. Yet another varietal, the wooly torch cactus (Pilosocereus leucocephalus) has dense white hairs that grow in between its spines and all over its columns.
Propagating Pilosocereus Cacti
The best way to propagate a Pilosocereus cactus is with cuttings. You can cut off the top of the plant once it’s begun to mature and replant it as the bottom of a new one. Once the top-cuts have rooted, they should flower fairly early on in their lives. Cutting off the tops of existing plants is a good way to ensure flowering in your cacti.
Common Pests and Diseases
While these cacti don't have many serious pest or disease issues, there are a few common inflictions you should keep an eye out for. Most frequently, you'll notice an issue with mealybugs, which can affect nearly every part of the plant, from the roots to the ribs. To treat, inspect the entire plant, and use a brush or high-pressure water hose to remove as many of the bugs as you can from the plant. Then, treat it with an insecticide until all traces of infection have vanished.
This desert species has a branched form and grows fairly quickly, often adding between 1 and 2 feet of height a year. Those that flower do so at night and all are most easily identifiable by their attractive blue-green skin, which is complemented by bright yellow spines. Pilosocereus cacti are mostly tree-like, and their flowers are shaped like tubes and grow fleshy fruits. In cultivation, they are planted and grown year-round, mostly in greenhouses due to their large size and need for warmth in the winter. Their name derives from the Latin term for “hairy cereus,” thanks in part to their spiny aureoles, many of which have a golden tint.
Despite their large size, Pilosocereus cacti are commonly cultivated as domestic cacti in tropical areas due to their aesthetic beauty. Gardeners with the correct climate and enough space should consider plants from this genus for their landscape, while others can grow them on a smaller scale indoors.
Botanical Name Pilosocereus
Common Name Column cactus, blue torch cactus, woolly torch cactus
Plant Type Cactus
Mature Size 6–12 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, white-yellow
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Mexico, South America, Caribbean
Pilosocereus Cacti Care
Though there are different types of cacti in the Pilosocereus family, they all generally necessitate the same type of care (which is also very similar to most other cacti, too). If you don't live in an extremely warm, desert-like climate, your best bet is probably to grow your pilosocereus cacti indoors, where you can most easily achieve and maintain the proper growing conditions.
Light
Like most cacti, members of the Pilosocereus family need lots and lots of direct sunlight to flourish. The brighter the light, the better, and you should aim for between 10 and 12 hours a day. If you do have a varietal with blue skin, the more sun it gets, the more vibrant the color will be.
Soil
When it comes to planting your cacti, arguably the most important factor is a well-draining soil. In order for your Pilosocereus cacti to be happy, they should be kept in a soil mixture that is dry (like a combination of perlite, sand, and limestone) with some organic matter mixed in. In order to aid in drainage, you can also plant your cacti in a terracotta or clay pot, which will help wick additional moisture away from the soil and prevent rot.
Water
Weekly watering should be sufficient for the water needs of this cacti family. They need a solid supply of water during the summer, but make sure not to overwater them, which can cause rot. A good test is to stick your finger into the soil about a few inches down. If the soil is dry there, it's likely time to water.
Temperature and Humidity
Being a desert dweller, the Pilosocereus cacti family loves hot heat. They prefer consistent temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit and can tolerate triple-digit heat, so there's no need to worry if things are getting too warm for your cactus. On the other hand, Pilosocereus cannot withstand frost, cold, or freezing temperatures, so you should make sure its environment doesn't dip lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
This cactus family is already known to grow quickly, but a bit of added fertilizer can't hurt—in fact, it may help them grow even faster. Complementing their watering with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every few weeks during the growing season for best results. Be sure to use a balanced fertilizer like a 20-20-20 that's been diluted so it doesn't burn your cactus.
Pilosocereus Cacti Varieties
There are many interesting Pilosocereus cacti varieties, including the previously-mentioned Pilosocereus pachycladus (which is also listed by some sources as Pilosocereus azureus). For instance, Pilosocereus gounellei (also known as the Xique-xique cactus), is another Brazilian native with an interesting forked branching habit that can grow up to 14 feet tall. Yet another varietal, the wooly torch cactus (Pilosocereus leucocephalus) has dense white hairs that grow in between its spines and all over its columns.
Propagating Pilosocereus Cacti
The best way to propagate a Pilosocereus cactus is with cuttings. You can cut off the top of the plant once it’s begun to mature and replant it as the bottom of a new one. Once the top-cuts have rooted, they should flower fairly early on in their lives. Cutting off the tops of existing plants is a good way to ensure flowering in your cacti.
Common Pests and Diseases
While these cacti don't have many serious pest or disease issues, there are a few common inflictions you should keep an eye out for. Most frequently, you'll notice an issue with mealybugs, which can affect nearly every part of the plant, from the roots to the ribs. To treat, inspect the entire plant, and use a brush or high-pressure water hose to remove as many of the bugs as you can from the plant. Then, treat it with an insecticide until all traces of infection have vanished.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月31日
The common name "blood lily" is sometimes used for a variety of species, but this name most frequently refers to Scadoxus multiflorus, formerly known as Haemanthus multiflorus. This unique plant produces large, spherical flower heads that look like red fireworks or fireballs. Made up of red, star-shaped florets with yellow-tipped stamens, these flowers explode from the landscape and attract bees, butterflies, and birds.
Each flower stem is smooth and has no foliage. Bright green semi-succulent leaves may appear while the plant is blooming, but these leaves can also appear later. Blood lily plants produce red berries in the fall.
Botanical Name Scadoxus multiflorus
Common Name Blood Lily, African Blood Lily, Fireball Lily
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 24 in. tall, 15 in. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, Fall
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 9-11, USA
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Blood Lily Care
Despite its wild looks, the blood lily is quite easy to care for and does not demand much attention. Whether in the garden or a container, this plant does best with loamy, sandy soil that is moist but well-draining. A consistent watering schedule is important during its growing season. Bright, indirect light or partial sunshine is preferred.
The blood lily needs a time of rest in order to bloom year after year. Once the flowers are spent, stop watering and allow the plant to die off and sit dormant for the winter. After dormancy, adding fresh soil and watering more frequently will enable the blood lily to bloom again with vigor. Pests may include mealybugs or spider mites.
Light
Bright, indirect light exposure or partial sun is best, as the blood lily does not handle intense sun well. Afternoon shade is especially beneficial to protect these plants from the effects of the hot afternoon sun.
Soil
Loamy or sandy soil that is rich in nutrients is ideal for the blood lily. These soil types offer good drainage, which is important since these plants fare poorly in soggy soil.
If potted in containers, mix rich potting soil with sand. This mixture will allow the soil to stay moist while offering excellent drainage, which is important for a healthy plant.
Water
Blood lily plants have moderate watering needs; avoid overwatering. Your watering schedule for a blood lily will vary based upon the plant's growing stage.
When the plant is actively growing, water consistently to keep the soil slightly moist. However, as the plant begins to go dormant, stop regular watering and allow the plant to die off. Water only to prevent the soil and dormant plant from drying out completely. Increase watering when the plant begins to grow again.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer warm climate conditions and do best when temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Being native to Africa, the blood lily cannot tolerate frost or cold weather.
Medium to high humidity is best. If kept indoors, misting the plant or setting it on a tray of pebbles and water will help increase the humidity. Keep it away from harsh drafts near vents or windows.
Fertilizer
Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season to encourage healthy growth. A fertilizer high in phosphorus works well for these plants and supports blooming. When the blood lily begins to die off, stop fertilizing. Fertilize again once its dormant period is over.
Propagating Blood Lilies
Propagating offsets is a simple way to multiply blood lily plants.
When offsets appear, allow the offset to stay attached to the mother plant for two growing seasons.
After this, use sharp snips to cut the offset away from the mother plant, making sure not to damage the root system of either plant.
Remove the offset and plant in loamy or sandy soil that is moist.
How to Grow Blood Lily Plants from Seed
Blood lilies can be grown from seeds, found with the plant's red berries.
Harvest seeds from the berries once the berries fall off or drop when touched. When this happens, remove the berry flesh to get to the seeds.
Place the seeds on the surface of moist potting soil.
The seeds will germinate and form a bulb initially before sprouting. Keep the soil moist and allow the bulb to sit dormant. Growth should appear in a few months.
Once sprouted, plant the bulb in an individual pot or a suitable outdoor location that is warm enough (above 60 degrees Fahrenheit) and with adequate light exposure.
Potting and Repotting Blood Lilies
The Blood Lily does not require frequent repotting. In fact, blood lily grows best if it is not disturbed. If you absolutely must repot the plant, gently work the plant out of its container, taking care not to disturb its root system. Repot the plant in a new container with a mix of potting soil and sand. Water generously and allow excess moisture to drain from the pot.
Overwintering Blood Lilies
Because the blood lily is not equipped to survive cold temperatures, it's important to take the necessary steps to overwinter this plant. For plants grown in the garden, dig up the bulbs in fall; place them in peat moss, and move them to a warm area away from frost, such as inside a greenhouse. Keep the bulbs dry.
If the blood lily plant is grown in a pot, move the pot indoors and keep it as a houseplant during the winter. Be sure to provide enough humidity, since indoor air tends to be drier than the plant's typical growing conditions.
Each flower stem is smooth and has no foliage. Bright green semi-succulent leaves may appear while the plant is blooming, but these leaves can also appear later. Blood lily plants produce red berries in the fall.
Botanical Name Scadoxus multiflorus
Common Name Blood Lily, African Blood Lily, Fireball Lily
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 24 in. tall, 15 in. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, Fall
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 9-11, USA
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Blood Lily Care
Despite its wild looks, the blood lily is quite easy to care for and does not demand much attention. Whether in the garden or a container, this plant does best with loamy, sandy soil that is moist but well-draining. A consistent watering schedule is important during its growing season. Bright, indirect light or partial sunshine is preferred.
The blood lily needs a time of rest in order to bloom year after year. Once the flowers are spent, stop watering and allow the plant to die off and sit dormant for the winter. After dormancy, adding fresh soil and watering more frequently will enable the blood lily to bloom again with vigor. Pests may include mealybugs or spider mites.
Light
Bright, indirect light exposure or partial sun is best, as the blood lily does not handle intense sun well. Afternoon shade is especially beneficial to protect these plants from the effects of the hot afternoon sun.
Soil
Loamy or sandy soil that is rich in nutrients is ideal for the blood lily. These soil types offer good drainage, which is important since these plants fare poorly in soggy soil.
If potted in containers, mix rich potting soil with sand. This mixture will allow the soil to stay moist while offering excellent drainage, which is important for a healthy plant.
Water
Blood lily plants have moderate watering needs; avoid overwatering. Your watering schedule for a blood lily will vary based upon the plant's growing stage.
When the plant is actively growing, water consistently to keep the soil slightly moist. However, as the plant begins to go dormant, stop regular watering and allow the plant to die off. Water only to prevent the soil and dormant plant from drying out completely. Increase watering when the plant begins to grow again.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer warm climate conditions and do best when temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Being native to Africa, the blood lily cannot tolerate frost or cold weather.
Medium to high humidity is best. If kept indoors, misting the plant or setting it on a tray of pebbles and water will help increase the humidity. Keep it away from harsh drafts near vents or windows.
Fertilizer
Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season to encourage healthy growth. A fertilizer high in phosphorus works well for these plants and supports blooming. When the blood lily begins to die off, stop fertilizing. Fertilize again once its dormant period is over.
Propagating Blood Lilies
Propagating offsets is a simple way to multiply blood lily plants.
When offsets appear, allow the offset to stay attached to the mother plant for two growing seasons.
After this, use sharp snips to cut the offset away from the mother plant, making sure not to damage the root system of either plant.
Remove the offset and plant in loamy or sandy soil that is moist.
How to Grow Blood Lily Plants from Seed
Blood lilies can be grown from seeds, found with the plant's red berries.
Harvest seeds from the berries once the berries fall off or drop when touched. When this happens, remove the berry flesh to get to the seeds.
Place the seeds on the surface of moist potting soil.
The seeds will germinate and form a bulb initially before sprouting. Keep the soil moist and allow the bulb to sit dormant. Growth should appear in a few months.
Once sprouted, plant the bulb in an individual pot or a suitable outdoor location that is warm enough (above 60 degrees Fahrenheit) and with adequate light exposure.
Potting and Repotting Blood Lilies
The Blood Lily does not require frequent repotting. In fact, blood lily grows best if it is not disturbed. If you absolutely must repot the plant, gently work the plant out of its container, taking care not to disturb its root system. Repot the plant in a new container with a mix of potting soil and sand. Water generously and allow excess moisture to drain from the pot.
Overwintering Blood Lilies
Because the blood lily is not equipped to survive cold temperatures, it's important to take the necessary steps to overwinter this plant. For plants grown in the garden, dig up the bulbs in fall; place them in peat moss, and move them to a warm area away from frost, such as inside a greenhouse. Keep the bulbs dry.
If the blood lily plant is grown in a pot, move the pot indoors and keep it as a houseplant during the winter. Be sure to provide enough humidity, since indoor air tends to be drier than the plant's typical growing conditions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月14日
The bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla) can be a stunning addition to the landscape. The oblong to obovate leaves on this magnolia tree can measure up to 3 feet long and 1 foot wide, hence the species name of macrophylla, which is Latin for "large leaves." The leaves are medium green on top and a silvery color on their undersides. The tree bears fragrant white flowers that are equally impressive and massive, with a span of roughly 8 to 12 inches. Even the elongated red fruits that follow the flowers offer visual interest. The fruits also are popular with birds and other wildlife.
The tree has a moderate growth rate, gaining around a foot per year and forming a pyramidal shape. It can be planted in the fall or early spring.
Botanical Name Magnolia macrophylla
Common Names Bigleaf magnolia, large-leaved cucumber tree, great-leaved macrophylla, umbrella tree
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 30–40 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Late spring to early summer
Flower Color Creamy white with purple petal bases
Hardiness Zones 5–8 (USDA)
Native Area Caribbean, North America, Central America
Bigleaf Magnolia Care
Bigleaf magnolias are easy to care for when grown in optimal conditions. They do not suffer from any serious pest or disease issues, nor do they require regular pruning to maintain their shape. If you do need to prune to remove a misshapen branch, try to do so in the late winter or early spring. This will prevent the sap from bleeding. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches as they arise.
A drawback of bigleaf magnolias is it can take a decade or longer for them to begin to produce blooms. Also, because the leaves are so large, raking them can be quite a chore in the fall. Furthermore, they are fairly fussy about the soil in which they grow. They do not like very dry or very wet ground. And they are intolerant of pollution, meaning they do not make good street trees.
Light
Bigleaf magnolia trees need a site that has full sun to part shade. Two to five hours of direct sunlight each day is typically sufficient.
Soil
These trees prefer conditions that mimic their native woodland habitat. Loamy soil that is high in organic matter and drains well is ideal. And a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best.
Water
Bigleaf magnolias don't do well in soggy or bone dry soil. Always allow the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings, but never allow it to stay dry for too long. Water when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Bigleaf magnolias grown in exceptionally well-draining soil will need more frequent watering than trees grown in slow-draining soil types.
Temperature and Humidity
The bigleaf magnolia tolerates the temperature highs and lows of its growing zones well. Humidity also typically is not an issue as long as the tree's moisture requirements are met. A layer of mulch around the tree can help to keep the roots cool and retain soil moisture. One specific climate requirement of bigleaf magnolia trees is a location that does not experience strong winds. Because the leaves of this tree are so large, they are easily damaged by wind gusts.
Fertilizer
When grown in organically rich soil, bigleaf magnolias often don't need supplemental fertilizer. Signs that fertilizer is necessary include weak new growth in the spring and significant dieback. Use a slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formulation, and apply it during late spring or early summer
Bigleaf Magnolia Varieties
The bigleaf magnolia has been divided into three subspecies that some people treat as separate species. They are:
Magnolia macrophylla subsp. macrophylla: Known also as bigleaf magnolia, this tree sports leaves that can stretch from 20 to 36 inches long. And the tree itself can grow more than 60 feet tall.
Magnolia macrophylla subsp. ashei (also Magnolia ashei): Known as the Ashe magnolia, this tree can grow up to 40 feet high. And its leaves stretch around 10 to 24 inches long.
Magnolia macrophylla subsp. dealbata (also Magnolia dealbata): This tree has two common names: the Mexican bigleaf magnolia and the cloud forest magnolia. It can grow more than 60 feet high with leaves around 1 to 2 feet long. Its fruits also are fairly large at around 3 to 6 inches long.
Propagating Bigleaf Magnolia
Most growers prefer buying bigleaf magnolia trees from nurseries, but the trees can also be grown from seed. Collect ripe, fallen fruit from the ground, and remove the flesh, leaving only the seeds. Clean seeds can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Sow the seeds in the fall, but be aware that bigleaf magnolia seeds are known for having low seed viability. If you're not keen on trying your luck with the seeds, bigleaf magnolias can also be propagated via rooting softwood cuttings in the summer.
The tree has a moderate growth rate, gaining around a foot per year and forming a pyramidal shape. It can be planted in the fall or early spring.
Botanical Name Magnolia macrophylla
Common Names Bigleaf magnolia, large-leaved cucumber tree, great-leaved macrophylla, umbrella tree
Plant Type Tree
Mature Size 30–40 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Late spring to early summer
Flower Color Creamy white with purple petal bases
Hardiness Zones 5–8 (USDA)
Native Area Caribbean, North America, Central America
Bigleaf Magnolia Care
Bigleaf magnolias are easy to care for when grown in optimal conditions. They do not suffer from any serious pest or disease issues, nor do they require regular pruning to maintain their shape. If you do need to prune to remove a misshapen branch, try to do so in the late winter or early spring. This will prevent the sap from bleeding. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches as they arise.
A drawback of bigleaf magnolias is it can take a decade or longer for them to begin to produce blooms. Also, because the leaves are so large, raking them can be quite a chore in the fall. Furthermore, they are fairly fussy about the soil in which they grow. They do not like very dry or very wet ground. And they are intolerant of pollution, meaning they do not make good street trees.
Light
Bigleaf magnolia trees need a site that has full sun to part shade. Two to five hours of direct sunlight each day is typically sufficient.
Soil
These trees prefer conditions that mimic their native woodland habitat. Loamy soil that is high in organic matter and drains well is ideal. And a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best.
Water
Bigleaf magnolias don't do well in soggy or bone dry soil. Always allow the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings, but never allow it to stay dry for too long. Water when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Bigleaf magnolias grown in exceptionally well-draining soil will need more frequent watering than trees grown in slow-draining soil types.
Temperature and Humidity
The bigleaf magnolia tolerates the temperature highs and lows of its growing zones well. Humidity also typically is not an issue as long as the tree's moisture requirements are met. A layer of mulch around the tree can help to keep the roots cool and retain soil moisture. One specific climate requirement of bigleaf magnolia trees is a location that does not experience strong winds. Because the leaves of this tree are so large, they are easily damaged by wind gusts.
Fertilizer
When grown in organically rich soil, bigleaf magnolias often don't need supplemental fertilizer. Signs that fertilizer is necessary include weak new growth in the spring and significant dieback. Use a slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formulation, and apply it during late spring or early summer
Bigleaf Magnolia Varieties
The bigleaf magnolia has been divided into three subspecies that some people treat as separate species. They are:
Magnolia macrophylla subsp. macrophylla: Known also as bigleaf magnolia, this tree sports leaves that can stretch from 20 to 36 inches long. And the tree itself can grow more than 60 feet tall.
Magnolia macrophylla subsp. ashei (also Magnolia ashei): Known as the Ashe magnolia, this tree can grow up to 40 feet high. And its leaves stretch around 10 to 24 inches long.
Magnolia macrophylla subsp. dealbata (also Magnolia dealbata): This tree has two common names: the Mexican bigleaf magnolia and the cloud forest magnolia. It can grow more than 60 feet high with leaves around 1 to 2 feet long. Its fruits also are fairly large at around 3 to 6 inches long.
Propagating Bigleaf Magnolia
Most growers prefer buying bigleaf magnolia trees from nurseries, but the trees can also be grown from seed. Collect ripe, fallen fruit from the ground, and remove the flesh, leaving only the seeds. Clean seeds can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Sow the seeds in the fall, but be aware that bigleaf magnolia seeds are known for having low seed viability. If you're not keen on trying your luck with the seeds, bigleaf magnolias can also be propagated via rooting softwood cuttings in the summer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月13日
You may not be familiar with the term bidens plant, but there is a good chance you’ve spotted this prolific growing plant with daisy-like blooms. Part of the aster family, there are more than 200 species of bidens plants with native types in such farflung places as Hawaii, Mexico, and Europe. In the United States, these plants are considered a native species in every state except Wyoming. If you encounter wild-growing bidens, you’ll recognize them for the tiny, sticky seeds that cling to your clothing or in your dog’s fur. The good news is that most commercially-available bidens have been cultivated to avoid the sticky seed problem.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月03日
Have you ever heard of the flowering penstemon? If not, don’t tell members of the American Penstemon Society. Yes, there is an organization dedicated to cultivating, propagating, and identifying species of this hardy native perennial, commonly known as beardtongue. If you still aren't sure about the beardtongue flower, perhaps the two men charged with felony theft in an attempt to steal 600 pounds of Palmer’s penstemon seedpods from Utah’s Zion National Park could tell you more about the value of this little plant. These men may regret exchanging their freedom for several bags of seed worth $25,000, but you won’t need to go to such extremes to grow the beardtongue flower in your landscape.
The plantain family (Plantaginaceae) gifts us with some wonderful ornamental flowering plants, including snapdragons, foxglove, and the valuable Penstemon genus, which contains more than 250 beardtongue species ready to grow in your garden. Penstemon plants are herbaceous perennials that feature lance-shaped foliage and spikes of tubular flowers. Flower colors include pink, red, white, purple, and (rarely) yellow. The nickname of bearded tongue refers to the pollen-free stamen that protrudes from the flower, resembling a bearded iris in this aspect. This perennial is easy to grow from seeds planted in spring to early summer. It's somewhat slow to start and needs 10 to 21 days to germinate.
Botanical Name Penstemon
Common Name Beardtongue
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 inches to 8 feet tall and 8 to 20 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH 5.8 to 6.2
Bloom Time Spring, early summer
Flower Color Purple, blue, orange, red, yellow, pink, white
Hardiness Zones 3 to 8
Native Area North America
How to Grow Beardtongue
Beardtongue plants typically bloom in early summer, filling that gap between the end of spring bulbs and the maturing of summer flowers like coneflowers, yarrow, and coreopsis. Most penstemons are 1 to 3 feet tall, but Palmer’s penstemon can grow up to 6 feet, giving you options for the middle and back of the border. Keep the penstemon flowerbed weeded regularly. A 3-inch layer of organic mulch can help to control weeds, and rock mulch is also a suitable choice. You can cut the spent flower stems back after blooming to help plants look tidy. Penstemons don’t compete well with other plants, so give them plenty of space in the garden.
Light
Plant your beardtongue in an area that receives full sun. Adequate sun exposure helps the tall stalks stay upright and not droopy.
Soil
The soil for beardtongue must drain very well. These plants are prairie natives and prefer rocky or sandy lean soil types over rich garden loam. It’s okay to amend the soil with compost to achieve proper tilth, but avoid manure applications.
Water
Penstemons tolerate drought, but 1 inch of water per week in the summer will keep plants vigorous and promote better blooming.
Temperature and Humidity
Gardeners in USDA growing zones 3 to 9 have the option to try penstemons, although some varieties may only be hardy to zones 4 or 5. It can thrive in a range of humidity conditions.
Fertilizer
Feed beardtongue plants once a year with an organic fertilizer, applied in the fall. Feeding these flowers with conventional bloom-boosting formula can promote too much growth and can shorten the life of the plants.
Varieties of Penstemon
'Dark Towers' is similar to Husker Red, but with pale pink flowers and darker foliage.
'Elfin Pink' is a good rock garden plant, topping out just shy of 12 inches.
'Husker Red' is perhaps the most well-known variety, due to being named perennial plant of the year in 1996; if features reddish-purple foliage and white flowers.
'Jingle Bells' has reddish-orange flowers that are beacons to hummingbirds.
'Piña Colada', a series of cultivars, features blue, rose, or white flowers on compact plants.
'Red Riding Hood' has red flowers and an upright growth habit.
Growing From Seeds
Penstemons are easy to start from seed, which is just as well, as many of the species are short-lived perennials. Seeds may germinate better after a period of aging, mimicking their conditions in the wild, so you can store seed for several years before planting. If you sow the seeds in the garden, do so in autumn, to allow a natural stratification period. Alternatively, you can stratify the seeds in the refrigerator for three months if you plan to start them indoors. If you purchase penstemon seeds, be sure to check the growing zone, as tender varieties like the ‘Tubular Bells’ series are often sold alongside the hardy perennial types.
Common Pests and Diseases
Penstemons don't suffer from too many insect problems, but slugs and snails may snack on leaves, especially in damp or shady areas.1 Sprinkle diatomaceous earth around plants to deter gnawing gastropods, and set out beer traps to catch any stragglers.
Penstemon plants are usually disease-free when given the proper culture of full sun and good drainage. Gardeners with heavy clay may lose plants to root rot, especially in areas with heavy snow that experience a long spring thaw. In Southern gardens, plants that don't have adequate soil drainage or are planted too closely together may succumb to powdery mildew2
or Southern blight, a fungal disease also known as white mold. Fungicide sprays treat symptoms but not the cause, so lighten your heavy soils with compost, or plant penstemons in raised beds to add air circulation to plant roots.
Landscape Uses for Beardtongue
Penstemon plants look best in groups of at least three to five plants. Smaller or alpine varieties work well in rock gardens, while tall penstemon types can provide a colorful backdrop along the back of the sunny mixed perennial border.
Penstemon flowers are a valuable source of nectar for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds in a wildflower garden. They also make good cut flowers, although most people don’t think of them as bouquet candidates. The good news for those who prefer not to cut is that browsing deer avoid penstemon plants.
The plantain family (Plantaginaceae) gifts us with some wonderful ornamental flowering plants, including snapdragons, foxglove, and the valuable Penstemon genus, which contains more than 250 beardtongue species ready to grow in your garden. Penstemon plants are herbaceous perennials that feature lance-shaped foliage and spikes of tubular flowers. Flower colors include pink, red, white, purple, and (rarely) yellow. The nickname of bearded tongue refers to the pollen-free stamen that protrudes from the flower, resembling a bearded iris in this aspect. This perennial is easy to grow from seeds planted in spring to early summer. It's somewhat slow to start and needs 10 to 21 days to germinate.
Botanical Name Penstemon
Common Name Beardtongue
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 6 inches to 8 feet tall and 8 to 20 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH 5.8 to 6.2
Bloom Time Spring, early summer
Flower Color Purple, blue, orange, red, yellow, pink, white
Hardiness Zones 3 to 8
Native Area North America
How to Grow Beardtongue
Beardtongue plants typically bloom in early summer, filling that gap between the end of spring bulbs and the maturing of summer flowers like coneflowers, yarrow, and coreopsis. Most penstemons are 1 to 3 feet tall, but Palmer’s penstemon can grow up to 6 feet, giving you options for the middle and back of the border. Keep the penstemon flowerbed weeded regularly. A 3-inch layer of organic mulch can help to control weeds, and rock mulch is also a suitable choice. You can cut the spent flower stems back after blooming to help plants look tidy. Penstemons don’t compete well with other plants, so give them plenty of space in the garden.
Light
Plant your beardtongue in an area that receives full sun. Adequate sun exposure helps the tall stalks stay upright and not droopy.
Soil
The soil for beardtongue must drain very well. These plants are prairie natives and prefer rocky or sandy lean soil types over rich garden loam. It’s okay to amend the soil with compost to achieve proper tilth, but avoid manure applications.
Water
Penstemons tolerate drought, but 1 inch of water per week in the summer will keep plants vigorous and promote better blooming.
Temperature and Humidity
Gardeners in USDA growing zones 3 to 9 have the option to try penstemons, although some varieties may only be hardy to zones 4 or 5. It can thrive in a range of humidity conditions.
Fertilizer
Feed beardtongue plants once a year with an organic fertilizer, applied in the fall. Feeding these flowers with conventional bloom-boosting formula can promote too much growth and can shorten the life of the plants.
Varieties of Penstemon
'Dark Towers' is similar to Husker Red, but with pale pink flowers and darker foliage.
'Elfin Pink' is a good rock garden plant, topping out just shy of 12 inches.
'Husker Red' is perhaps the most well-known variety, due to being named perennial plant of the year in 1996; if features reddish-purple foliage and white flowers.
'Jingle Bells' has reddish-orange flowers that are beacons to hummingbirds.
'Piña Colada', a series of cultivars, features blue, rose, or white flowers on compact plants.
'Red Riding Hood' has red flowers and an upright growth habit.
Growing From Seeds
Penstemons are easy to start from seed, which is just as well, as many of the species are short-lived perennials. Seeds may germinate better after a period of aging, mimicking their conditions in the wild, so you can store seed for several years before planting. If you sow the seeds in the garden, do so in autumn, to allow a natural stratification period. Alternatively, you can stratify the seeds in the refrigerator for three months if you plan to start them indoors. If you purchase penstemon seeds, be sure to check the growing zone, as tender varieties like the ‘Tubular Bells’ series are often sold alongside the hardy perennial types.
Common Pests and Diseases
Penstemons don't suffer from too many insect problems, but slugs and snails may snack on leaves, especially in damp or shady areas.1 Sprinkle diatomaceous earth around plants to deter gnawing gastropods, and set out beer traps to catch any stragglers.
Penstemon plants are usually disease-free when given the proper culture of full sun and good drainage. Gardeners with heavy clay may lose plants to root rot, especially in areas with heavy snow that experience a long spring thaw. In Southern gardens, plants that don't have adequate soil drainage or are planted too closely together may succumb to powdery mildew2
or Southern blight, a fungal disease also known as white mold. Fungicide sprays treat symptoms but not the cause, so lighten your heavy soils with compost, or plant penstemons in raised beds to add air circulation to plant roots.
Landscape Uses for Beardtongue
Penstemon plants look best in groups of at least three to five plants. Smaller or alpine varieties work well in rock gardens, while tall penstemon types can provide a colorful backdrop along the back of the sunny mixed perennial border.
Penstemon flowers are a valuable source of nectar for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds in a wildflower garden. They also make good cut flowers, although most people don’t think of them as bouquet candidates. The good news for those who prefer not to cut is that browsing deer avoid penstemon plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月26日
There are dozens of species and varieties of banana and plantain trees (Musa spp.). While these tropical fruiting plants are commonly referred to as trees, they’re technically huge herbaceous plants, meaning they don’t have a woody stem. Instead, they have fleshy, upright stalks from which large, oblong, bright green leaves grow. Showy flowers appear typically in the spring, giving way to the fleshy, elongated, green or yellow fruit.
No matter the size of your yard or home, there is a banana tree to fit. Plus, they can make good houseplants with enough light, though they typically don't bear fruit indoors. Banana trees generally have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Names Banana tree, plantain tree
Botanical Name Musa spp.
Family Musaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–30 ft. tall, 1–15 ft. wide (varies widely by species)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, purple, orange
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Africa, Australia
Banana Tree Care
While most species grow best in warm climates, there also are somewhat cold-hardy banana trees. If you're planting the banana tree outdoors, choosing the right planting site is key to making care easy. Grow this plant in a location where it will be sheltered from strong winds, as it is very susceptible to damaged leaves. Prepare your planting site by mixing some compost into the soil. And make sure you have enough space for the height and spread of your particular species.
During the growing season (spring to fall), banana trees are water hogs. You might have to water daily, especially during hot weather, to maintain adequate soil moisture. The plants also will need regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Bananas form in the late summer in a cluster called a hand. Once the fruit is green but plumped up, it can be cut off the stalk and placed in a cool, dry space to finish ripening.
Light
Most types of bananas plants prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, some varieties can scorch easily and will do better in partial shade.
Soil
These plants love organically rich, deep soil with good drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. They typically have poor tolerance for salt in the soil.
Water
Banana trees are tropical and originate in rainforests, so they need a lot of water and plenty of moisture in the air. They do best when planted in groups fairly close together, as this helps to retain moisture in the leaves. Water regularly to make sure the soil stays evenly moist but not soggy. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants thrive in warm, humid conditions, but they don't like temperature extremes. Even the hardy, cold-tolerant banana tree species prefer consistent temperatures ranging between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold temperatures and dry conditions can cause the plants to quickly die back. To increase the level of humidity, mist the leaves daily.
Fertilizer
Banana trees are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertilizer regularly throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Also, mix compost into the soil annually to raise the level of organic matter.
Types of Banana Trees
There are roughly 70 species and even more varieties of banana trees, including:
Musa acuminata: This species reaches around 12 to 20 feet tall and is often grown for its ornamental foliage thanks to its paddle-shaped leaves that can reach around 6 to 10 inches long.
Musa ornata: Commonly referred to as the flowering banana, this species is mostly grown for its ornamental value; its small fruit is not typically eaten.
Musa basjoo: Known as the Japanese banana, this species has fairly good cold tolerance and reaches around 6 to 14 feet tall.
Pruning
Before the banana tree fruits, prune it so there is only one main stem. After it has been growing for six to eight months, leave one sucker (small shoot at the base of the stem). This plant will replace the main stem in the next growing season. After the fruit is removed, cut the main stem down to 2.5 feet. Remove the rest of the stem in a few weeks, leaving the replacement sucker intact.
Propagating Banana Trees
The best method of propagation is division. To divide banana plants, separate the suckers from the rhizome (horizontal underground stem) using a sharp spade. Before you do this, wait until the suckers are at least 3 feet tall and have their own roots. Once you separate a sucker from the parent plant, allow the surface of the rhizome section to dry for a day or so. At this point, it will be ready for replanting in any appropriate location.
Potting and Repotting Banana Trees
Banana trees can grow in containers, but they generally will need at least a 15-gallon pot at minimum for optimal growth. Ensure that the pot has drainage holes, and use a loose, organically rich potting mix. A benefit to potting your banana tree is you will be able to bring it indoors to shelter it from cold and inclement weather. However, potted banana trees tend to have higher watering and feeding needs, as they will use up what is in their limited soil faster than banana trees in the ground. In addition, they likely won't reach their maximum size and might not bear fruit. Still, many people prefer them for their foliage. You typically will need to divide and repot container banana trees every three years, separating any suckers from the parent plant.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Owners of banana trees need to stay vigilant of the many pests and diseases that can afflict a banana tree. Pests include the following:
Aphids: These pests cause curled and shriveled foliage and can also transmit other diseases that will affect any fruit produced.
Black weevils: If you see jelly-like sap oozing from the plant, you may have black weevils that can be eliminated with pesticides.
Nematodes: This is the banana tree's most common pest that will rot the plant and fruit.
Sap-sucking insects:Mealybugs and red spider mites are also common to banana trees.
Scarring beetle: This pest invades bunches of the plant's fruit and can be eliminated with pesticide.
Thrips: This pest will stain and split the peel of the plant's fruit.
There are many diseases common to banana trees in large orchards and are taken care of with commercial fungicides and pesticides. As for indoor potted banana trees, be on the lookout for root rot, leaf-spot disease, wilt, and powdery mildew.
No matter the size of your yard or home, there is a banana tree to fit. Plus, they can make good houseplants with enough light, though they typically don't bear fruit indoors. Banana trees generally have a fast growth rate and should be planted in the spring.
Common Names Banana tree, plantain tree
Botanical Name Musa spp.
Family Musaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–30 ft. tall, 1–15 ft. wide (varies widely by species)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White, purple, orange
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Africa, Australia
Banana Tree Care
While most species grow best in warm climates, there also are somewhat cold-hardy banana trees. If you're planting the banana tree outdoors, choosing the right planting site is key to making care easy. Grow this plant in a location where it will be sheltered from strong winds, as it is very susceptible to damaged leaves. Prepare your planting site by mixing some compost into the soil. And make sure you have enough space for the height and spread of your particular species.
During the growing season (spring to fall), banana trees are water hogs. You might have to water daily, especially during hot weather, to maintain adequate soil moisture. The plants also will need regular fertilization throughout the growing season. Bananas form in the late summer in a cluster called a hand. Once the fruit is green but plumped up, it can be cut off the stalk and placed in a cool, dry space to finish ripening.
Light
Most types of bananas plants prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, some varieties can scorch easily and will do better in partial shade.
Soil
These plants love organically rich, deep soil with good drainage and a slightly acidic soil pH. They typically have poor tolerance for salt in the soil.
Water
Banana trees are tropical and originate in rainforests, so they need a lot of water and plenty of moisture in the air. They do best when planted in groups fairly close together, as this helps to retain moisture in the leaves. Water regularly to make sure the soil stays evenly moist but not soggy. Avoid overwatering, which can cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants thrive in warm, humid conditions, but they don't like temperature extremes. Even the hardy, cold-tolerant banana tree species prefer consistent temperatures ranging between 75 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold temperatures and dry conditions can cause the plants to quickly die back. To increase the level of humidity, mist the leaves daily.
Fertilizer
Banana trees are heavy feeders. Apply a balanced fertilizer regularly throughout the growing season, following label instructions. Also, mix compost into the soil annually to raise the level of organic matter.
Types of Banana Trees
There are roughly 70 species and even more varieties of banana trees, including:
Musa acuminata: This species reaches around 12 to 20 feet tall and is often grown for its ornamental foliage thanks to its paddle-shaped leaves that can reach around 6 to 10 inches long.
Musa ornata: Commonly referred to as the flowering banana, this species is mostly grown for its ornamental value; its small fruit is not typically eaten.
Musa basjoo: Known as the Japanese banana, this species has fairly good cold tolerance and reaches around 6 to 14 feet tall.
Pruning
Before the banana tree fruits, prune it so there is only one main stem. After it has been growing for six to eight months, leave one sucker (small shoot at the base of the stem). This plant will replace the main stem in the next growing season. After the fruit is removed, cut the main stem down to 2.5 feet. Remove the rest of the stem in a few weeks, leaving the replacement sucker intact.
Propagating Banana Trees
The best method of propagation is division. To divide banana plants, separate the suckers from the rhizome (horizontal underground stem) using a sharp spade. Before you do this, wait until the suckers are at least 3 feet tall and have their own roots. Once you separate a sucker from the parent plant, allow the surface of the rhizome section to dry for a day or so. At this point, it will be ready for replanting in any appropriate location.
Potting and Repotting Banana Trees
Banana trees can grow in containers, but they generally will need at least a 15-gallon pot at minimum for optimal growth. Ensure that the pot has drainage holes, and use a loose, organically rich potting mix. A benefit to potting your banana tree is you will be able to bring it indoors to shelter it from cold and inclement weather. However, potted banana trees tend to have higher watering and feeding needs, as they will use up what is in their limited soil faster than banana trees in the ground. In addition, they likely won't reach their maximum size and might not bear fruit. Still, many people prefer them for their foliage. You typically will need to divide and repot container banana trees every three years, separating any suckers from the parent plant.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Owners of banana trees need to stay vigilant of the many pests and diseases that can afflict a banana tree. Pests include the following:
Aphids: These pests cause curled and shriveled foliage and can also transmit other diseases that will affect any fruit produced.
Black weevils: If you see jelly-like sap oozing from the plant, you may have black weevils that can be eliminated with pesticides.
Nematodes: This is the banana tree's most common pest that will rot the plant and fruit.
Sap-sucking insects:Mealybugs and red spider mites are also common to banana trees.
Scarring beetle: This pest invades bunches of the plant's fruit and can be eliminated with pesticide.
Thrips: This pest will stain and split the peel of the plant's fruit.
There are many diseases common to banana trees in large orchards and are taken care of with commercial fungicides and pesticides. As for indoor potted banana trees, be on the lookout for root rot, leaf-spot disease, wilt, and powdery mildew.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月22日
The common name bamboo is applied to over a thousand plant species. In the wild, several of these species can grow to towering heights of 50 feet or more. However, it is possible to grow certain types of bamboo in containers—even indoors. Golden bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea) is one of those species. This bamboo features bright green upright canes that turn to a golden color with age and sunlight exposure. Its narrow, lance-shaped leaves grow in clusters on short stems off of the canes. The plant grows quickly and can easily spread throughout a garden if you let it. Thus, planting it in a pot is ideal to keep it contained. It won’t grow as large, but that means it will be much more manageable. It’s best planted in the spring or early fall, though indoors you generally can plant it any time of year.
Botanical Name Phyllostachys aurea
Common Names Bamboo, golden bamboo, fishpole bamboo, monk’s belly bamboo, fairyland bamboo
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 15–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide (outdoors), 5–8 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Nonflowering
Flower Color Nonflowering
Hardiness Zones 6–10 (USDA)
Native Area China
Bamboo Care
Bamboo is usually a low-maintenance, hardy plant. It rarely has issues with pests or diseases, and it typically doesn’t require pruning. You can remove old canes at their base if they begin to look unsightly. And you also can remove new shoots as they pop up from the soil if you want to limit your plant’s growth.
Regular watering and feeding will make up the bulk of your plant maintenance. To maintain the soil moisture bamboo likes, you might have to water your container plant more than once a week. But especially for an indoor plant where the climate doesn’t change drastically, you should be able to establish a predictable care routine fairly easily.
Light
Bamboo prefers a spot that gets full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can result in a weak plant that does not grow to its fullest potential or develop its brilliant color. Indoors, keep your bamboo by your brightest window, and rotate the pot every week or so to be sure all sides of the plant get light.
Soil
This plant can tolerate a variety of soil types, but it prefers organically rich soil with good drainage. A quality commercial potting mix should be fine for container plants.
Water
Bamboo has some drought tolerance once it’s established, and it can handle soggy soil for a short time. However, sitting in pooled water can ultimately rot the roots and kill the plant. The plant ideally should have evenly moist soil. Test the soil by sticking your finger an inch or two in it and watering whenever it feels dry. Never let the soil dry out completely. But during the winter months, slightly cut back on watering.
Temperature and Humidity
This species of bamboo is known for its cold tolerance. It can survive temperatures even around 5 degrees Fahrenheit for short amounts of time. However, cold weather can cause the plant to drop foliage and might eventually kill it. The plant will thrive in typical indoor temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it away from cold drafts, such as those from an air conditioner, as well as from drying heat vents. These plants prefer fairly humid air but can tolerate some indoor dryness as long as you keep them well watered.
Fertilizer
To maintain an optimal amount of nutrients in your container plant’s soil, feed your bamboo with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month, following label instructions. It also can be helpful to mix some organic compost into the soil, especially in the spring, to promote healthy plant growth.
Potting and Repotting Bamboo
When starting with a small nursery bamboo plant, choose a container that is at least 12 inches wide and deep. Pick a pot made from a heavy material to anchor the weight of the bamboo canes. You can even add some rocks or gravel to the bottom if you feel the container isn’t sturdy enough to anchor the plant’s weight. Also, make sure the container has ample drainage holes.
Place the root ball in the pot, and fill in around it with a loose, nutrient-rich potting mix. If you wish, mix in some compost at this time to encourage growth. Then, water the bamboo well.
You likely will have to move your bamboo to a larger pot every year or two once the roots have spread through the entire pot and you see them coming out the holes in the bottom or poking up out of the soil on top. Don’t allow your plant to remain in a pot that’s too small for it for very long, as it won’t be able to get enough nutrients to remain healthy. An indoor plant typically will do fine being repotted at any time of year, but at the start of the growing season in the spring when the plant is revving up its growth is generally the best time for repotting.
Bamboo Varieties
There are several varieties of Phyllostachys aurea, including:
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Flavescens Inversa’: Some lower sections of the canes of this variety can have a yellow stripe.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Holochrysa’: The canes of this variety often turn golden faster than others of the species.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’: This variety has canes that turn yellow with green stripes.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Takemurai’: This variety tends to grow larger than other plants of the species.
Botanical Name Phyllostachys aurea
Common Names Bamboo, golden bamboo, fishpole bamboo, monk’s belly bamboo, fairyland bamboo
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 15–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide (outdoors), 5–8 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Nonflowering
Flower Color Nonflowering
Hardiness Zones 6–10 (USDA)
Native Area China
Bamboo Care
Bamboo is usually a low-maintenance, hardy plant. It rarely has issues with pests or diseases, and it typically doesn’t require pruning. You can remove old canes at their base if they begin to look unsightly. And you also can remove new shoots as they pop up from the soil if you want to limit your plant’s growth.
Regular watering and feeding will make up the bulk of your plant maintenance. To maintain the soil moisture bamboo likes, you might have to water your container plant more than once a week. But especially for an indoor plant where the climate doesn’t change drastically, you should be able to establish a predictable care routine fairly easily.
Light
Bamboo prefers a spot that gets full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can result in a weak plant that does not grow to its fullest potential or develop its brilliant color. Indoors, keep your bamboo by your brightest window, and rotate the pot every week or so to be sure all sides of the plant get light.
Soil
This plant can tolerate a variety of soil types, but it prefers organically rich soil with good drainage. A quality commercial potting mix should be fine for container plants.
Water
Bamboo has some drought tolerance once it’s established, and it can handle soggy soil for a short time. However, sitting in pooled water can ultimately rot the roots and kill the plant. The plant ideally should have evenly moist soil. Test the soil by sticking your finger an inch or two in it and watering whenever it feels dry. Never let the soil dry out completely. But during the winter months, slightly cut back on watering.
Temperature and Humidity
This species of bamboo is known for its cold tolerance. It can survive temperatures even around 5 degrees Fahrenheit for short amounts of time. However, cold weather can cause the plant to drop foliage and might eventually kill it. The plant will thrive in typical indoor temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it away from cold drafts, such as those from an air conditioner, as well as from drying heat vents. These plants prefer fairly humid air but can tolerate some indoor dryness as long as you keep them well watered.
Fertilizer
To maintain an optimal amount of nutrients in your container plant’s soil, feed your bamboo with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month, following label instructions. It also can be helpful to mix some organic compost into the soil, especially in the spring, to promote healthy plant growth.
Potting and Repotting Bamboo
When starting with a small nursery bamboo plant, choose a container that is at least 12 inches wide and deep. Pick a pot made from a heavy material to anchor the weight of the bamboo canes. You can even add some rocks or gravel to the bottom if you feel the container isn’t sturdy enough to anchor the plant’s weight. Also, make sure the container has ample drainage holes.
Place the root ball in the pot, and fill in around it with a loose, nutrient-rich potting mix. If you wish, mix in some compost at this time to encourage growth. Then, water the bamboo well.
You likely will have to move your bamboo to a larger pot every year or two once the roots have spread through the entire pot and you see them coming out the holes in the bottom or poking up out of the soil on top. Don’t allow your plant to remain in a pot that’s too small for it for very long, as it won’t be able to get enough nutrients to remain healthy. An indoor plant typically will do fine being repotted at any time of year, but at the start of the growing season in the spring when the plant is revving up its growth is generally the best time for repotting.
Bamboo Varieties
There are several varieties of Phyllostachys aurea, including:
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Flavescens Inversa’: Some lower sections of the canes of this variety can have a yellow stripe.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Holochrysa’: The canes of this variety often turn golden faster than others of the species.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’: This variety has canes that turn yellow with green stripes.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Takemurai’: This variety tends to grow larger than other plants of the species.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月17日
Baby's breath plants (Gypsophila spp.) have become somewhat of a cliché in floral arrangements. But they also can look lovely in the garden. There are more than 100 annual and perennial species within this genus with varying appearances. Some have a creeping growth habit, forming an attractive flowering ground cover. And others grow in more upright and contained mounds with extensive branching of their slender stems, giving the plants a light and airy feel. Their small, narrow leaves are gray-green to blue-green in color. In the summer, baby’s breath plants are covered in tiny, five-petaled, white or pink flowers that last several weeks. The blooms are known to attract butterflies and other pollinators. Baby’s breath should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. The plants have a fast growth rate.
Botanical Name Gypsophila
Common Name Baby's breath
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Baby's Breath Care
Baby’s breath plants generally require very little maintenance. Plant them in a spot that gets lots of light and has good soil drainage, and they’ll practically take care of themselves. Plus, they rarely have serious issues with pests or diseases.
You’ll typically only need to water during dry spells and feed annually. Once your plants mature, you might need to provide them with support, such as garden stakes, to prevent the thin stems from flopping over. You also can proactively install stakes at the time of planting that the baby’s breath can grow around. These plants don’t need deadheading (removing spent blooms). But they can benefit from a light pruning after flowering, which will help to maintain their shape and might promote another bloom.
Light
Baby's breath plants grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But they will tolerate a bit of shade, especially from hot afternoon sun. However, too much shade will result in leggy plants and poor flowering.
Soil
Baby's breath plants can grow in a range of soil types, as long as they have good drainage. Sandy soil works well whereas wet clay soil does not. So if your soil is heavy, consider planting baby's breath in raised garden beds or containers. These plants also like a slightly alkaline soil pH, so if your soil is acidic sweeten it with an application of garden lime.
Water
Baby’s breath has low water needs and thrives in dry soil. Keep the soil moderately moist for young plants. But then you typically won’t have to water established plants unless you have an extended period of drought. Overwatering can cause root rot and kill the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Baby’s breath can tolerate a range of temperatures within its growing zones. Some species have more cold tolerance than others. These plants prefer a dry climate over a humid one. So if you have high humidity, it’s imperative to make sure your plant has excellent soil drainage and isn’t sitting in constant moisture.
Fertilizer
These plants aren’t heavy feeders, and too much fertilizer can cause floppy growth. To promote healthy growth and profuse blooms, simply work some compost into the planting site each spring.
Baby's Breath Varieties
There is a diversity to the Gypsophila genus that you might not expect if you only know baby's breath from the floral trade. Here are some different varieties of the plant:
Gypsophila elegans: This species is considered an annual, but it tends to self-seed and come back in the garden year after year. It features notably large, open blooms compared to other baby’s breath species.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Bristol Fairy’: This cultivar sports double blooms that are white and roughly 1/4 inch wide. It grows in mounds that reach around 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Compacta Plena’: This is a compact variety that grows in mounds only around 15 to 18 inches tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar to those on the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Perfekta’: This variety can grow up to 3 feet tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar in appearance to the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar except that they’re around twice the size.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Viette’s Dwarf’: This is another compact cultivar that only reaches around 12 to 15 inches tall and wide and thus typically won’t need staking to keep it upright. It features double flowers in pink that slowly fade to white.
Botanical Name Gypsophila
Common Name Baby's breath
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature Size 2–3 feet tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets
Baby's Breath Care
Baby’s breath plants generally require very little maintenance. Plant them in a spot that gets lots of light and has good soil drainage, and they’ll practically take care of themselves. Plus, they rarely have serious issues with pests or diseases.
You’ll typically only need to water during dry spells and feed annually. Once your plants mature, you might need to provide them with support, such as garden stakes, to prevent the thin stems from flopping over. You also can proactively install stakes at the time of planting that the baby’s breath can grow around. These plants don’t need deadheading (removing spent blooms). But they can benefit from a light pruning after flowering, which will help to maintain their shape and might promote another bloom.
Light
Baby's breath plants grow best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. But they will tolerate a bit of shade, especially from hot afternoon sun. However, too much shade will result in leggy plants and poor flowering.
Soil
Baby's breath plants can grow in a range of soil types, as long as they have good drainage. Sandy soil works well whereas wet clay soil does not. So if your soil is heavy, consider planting baby's breath in raised garden beds or containers. These plants also like a slightly alkaline soil pH, so if your soil is acidic sweeten it with an application of garden lime.
Water
Baby’s breath has low water needs and thrives in dry soil. Keep the soil moderately moist for young plants. But then you typically won’t have to water established plants unless you have an extended period of drought. Overwatering can cause root rot and kill the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Baby’s breath can tolerate a range of temperatures within its growing zones. Some species have more cold tolerance than others. These plants prefer a dry climate over a humid one. So if you have high humidity, it’s imperative to make sure your plant has excellent soil drainage and isn’t sitting in constant moisture.
Fertilizer
These plants aren’t heavy feeders, and too much fertilizer can cause floppy growth. To promote healthy growth and profuse blooms, simply work some compost into the planting site each spring.
Baby's Breath Varieties
There is a diversity to the Gypsophila genus that you might not expect if you only know baby's breath from the floral trade. Here are some different varieties of the plant:
Gypsophila elegans: This species is considered an annual, but it tends to self-seed and come back in the garden year after year. It features notably large, open blooms compared to other baby’s breath species.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Bristol Fairy’: This cultivar sports double blooms that are white and roughly 1/4 inch wide. It grows in mounds that reach around 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Compacta Plena’: This is a compact variety that grows in mounds only around 15 to 18 inches tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar to those on the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Perfekta’: This variety can grow up to 3 feet tall and wide. Its flowers are very similar in appearance to the ‘Bristol Fairy’ cultivar except that they’re around twice the size.
Gypsophila paniculata ‘Viette’s Dwarf’: This is another compact cultivar that only reaches around 12 to 15 inches tall and wide and thus typically won’t need staking to keep it upright. It features double flowers in pink that slowly fade to white.
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