文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Long white, or occasionally blue-grey, waxy residues which look like cotton wool appear on the bark and branches especially around old pruning wounds. There may also be droplets of sticky, sugary honeydew on the bark which may become infected with black sooty mould. Cankers may also be present on aphid infested areas.
Plants affected
Apple, pear, prunus, crab apple, pyracantha, cotoneaster, elm, hawthorn and mountain ash trees.
About Apple woolly aphid
Adult aphids are up to 2mm long and elliptical in shape. They are pinkish-brown but their waxy coating gives them a white, woolly appearance.
This species does not overwinter as eggs but as young, under loose bark, or in cracks in bark or surface roots.
Young emerge in spring to re-establish the colony.
Aphids can give birth to as many as five live young a day so rapidly produce large colonies.
After a few generations, winged adults develop and move to new trees.
Colonies will develop around cracks and wounds in trees, as well as new shoots.
Feeding by apple woolly aphids will cause knobbly galls to form making the tree more susceptible to canker and other infections.
Aphids feed on plant sap and excrete plant sugars as honeydew.
Honeydew often covers the leaves of a plant and then becomes infested with unsightly black sooty moulds.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Apple woolly aphid
Pyrethroids and Pyrethrin
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Check tree shoots and bark regularly for signs of woolly aphid.
Scrub areas within easy reach with a brush and a bucket of soapy water.
Spray infested areas with a firm jet of water to help reduce aphid numbers.
Spray with natural fatty acids such as an insecticidal soap.
The parasitic wasp Aphelinus mali will attack aphids above ground level.
Aphid predators such as ladybirds, aphidoletes, hoverflies, and lacewing larvae can be encouraged by providing suitable overwintering sites and by growing flowers which attract them.
Prevention
Regularly check plants for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage natural enemies like ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings to become established in the garden by planting daisy-like flowers, yellow flowers and in particular, the poached egg plant Limnanthes douglasii.
Avoid using broad spectrum insecticides which will kill beneficial insects as well as aphids.
Encourage insect-eating birds such as blue tits, by hanging feeders in winter and nest boxes in spring.
If planting new apple trees, use rootstocks which are resistant to apple woolly aphid.
Paint pruning wounds with a tree coating composition to help prevent infestations establishing.
Plants affected
Apple, pear, prunus, crab apple, pyracantha, cotoneaster, elm, hawthorn and mountain ash trees.
About Apple woolly aphid
Adult aphids are up to 2mm long and elliptical in shape. They are pinkish-brown but their waxy coating gives them a white, woolly appearance.
This species does not overwinter as eggs but as young, under loose bark, or in cracks in bark or surface roots.
Young emerge in spring to re-establish the colony.
Aphids can give birth to as many as five live young a day so rapidly produce large colonies.
After a few generations, winged adults develop and move to new trees.
Colonies will develop around cracks and wounds in trees, as well as new shoots.
Feeding by apple woolly aphids will cause knobbly galls to form making the tree more susceptible to canker and other infections.
Aphids feed on plant sap and excrete plant sugars as honeydew.
Honeydew often covers the leaves of a plant and then becomes infested with unsightly black sooty moulds.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Apple woolly aphid
Pyrethroids and Pyrethrin
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Check tree shoots and bark regularly for signs of woolly aphid.
Scrub areas within easy reach with a brush and a bucket of soapy water.
Spray infested areas with a firm jet of water to help reduce aphid numbers.
Spray with natural fatty acids such as an insecticidal soap.
The parasitic wasp Aphelinus mali will attack aphids above ground level.
Aphid predators such as ladybirds, aphidoletes, hoverflies, and lacewing larvae can be encouraged by providing suitable overwintering sites and by growing flowers which attract them.
Prevention
Regularly check plants for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage natural enemies like ladybirds, hoverflies and lacewings to become established in the garden by planting daisy-like flowers, yellow flowers and in particular, the poached egg plant Limnanthes douglasii.
Avoid using broad spectrum insecticides which will kill beneficial insects as well as aphids.
Encourage insect-eating birds such as blue tits, by hanging feeders in winter and nest boxes in spring.
If planting new apple trees, use rootstocks which are resistant to apple woolly aphid.
Paint pruning wounds with a tree coating composition to help prevent infestations establishing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Birch trees are highly desirable landscape trees because of their beautiful bark and graceful foliage. Unfortunately, they aren’t known for their long lifespan. You can improve their chances by pruning birch trees properly, and taking advantage of the best time to prune birch trees.
Reasons for Cutting Back Birch Trees
There are several reasons for cutting back birch trees:
Remove dead, diseased and injured branches for the health of the tree. Branches that rub together offer entry points for insects and disease, so remove one of them. Branches that grow nearly straight up have weak attachments to the trunk. Take them down while they are small to prevent them from breaking off later on. Remove a branch that is too close to another branch. This is best done when the tree is young. Remove branches that are too close to the ground to make landscaping easier and allow comfortable use of the shade. You can remove any branch that detracts from the overall appearance of the tree.
When to Prune Birch Trees
Most landscapers prune trees just before they break dormancy in late winter or early spring, but this timing doesn’t work for birch trees. They bleed a heavy flow of sap if pruned when awakening from their winter rest, so the best time to prune birch trees is late summer or early autumn. When you prune at the proper time, you not only avoid sap flows, but you also avoid the egg laying season for most insects that infest pruning wounds. These insects cause unsightly damage, and they can spread serious diseases. Birch tree borers are tree killers, and you should reduce the risk of attack by cutting after their early summer flying season whenever possible.
How to Prune a Birch Tree
There are several steps in pruning a birch tree. Take care of the easy stuff first by removing side shoots and suckers as necessary. Next, decide which branches to remove. Be as conservative as possible. Removing more than twenty-five percent of the canopy of a tree at one time weakens it and may be fatal. Never top a tree.
Remove branches less than two inches in diameter as close as possible to the collar, or thickened area where the branch attaches to the trunk. Use one quick cut with long-handled pruners to remove the branch, and then clean the pruning tool with a ten percent bleach solution or a household disinfectant before moving to another branch.
Larger branches are taken down with three cuts. Here’s the procedure:
The Undercut – From the trunk of the tree, measure 18 inches out along the branch. At the 18-inch mark, make a cut one-third to one-half of the way through the branch beginning at the underside and working in an upward direction. This cut prevents the falling branch from stripping bark and wood from the tree as it falls. The Main Cut – Measure an inch or two out from the undercut and cut the branch from the top downward. Cut all the way through as smoothly as possible. Tidying Up – The 18- to 20-inch stub that remains is an unnecessary eyesore, and can cause disease if it dies back. It will not regrow, so cut it off flush with the collar.
Reasons for Cutting Back Birch Trees
There are several reasons for cutting back birch trees:
Remove dead, diseased and injured branches for the health of the tree. Branches that rub together offer entry points for insects and disease, so remove one of them. Branches that grow nearly straight up have weak attachments to the trunk. Take them down while they are small to prevent them from breaking off later on. Remove a branch that is too close to another branch. This is best done when the tree is young. Remove branches that are too close to the ground to make landscaping easier and allow comfortable use of the shade. You can remove any branch that detracts from the overall appearance of the tree.
When to Prune Birch Trees
Most landscapers prune trees just before they break dormancy in late winter or early spring, but this timing doesn’t work for birch trees. They bleed a heavy flow of sap if pruned when awakening from their winter rest, so the best time to prune birch trees is late summer or early autumn. When you prune at the proper time, you not only avoid sap flows, but you also avoid the egg laying season for most insects that infest pruning wounds. These insects cause unsightly damage, and they can spread serious diseases. Birch tree borers are tree killers, and you should reduce the risk of attack by cutting after their early summer flying season whenever possible.
How to Prune a Birch Tree
There are several steps in pruning a birch tree. Take care of the easy stuff first by removing side shoots and suckers as necessary. Next, decide which branches to remove. Be as conservative as possible. Removing more than twenty-five percent of the canopy of a tree at one time weakens it and may be fatal. Never top a tree.
Remove branches less than two inches in diameter as close as possible to the collar, or thickened area where the branch attaches to the trunk. Use one quick cut with long-handled pruners to remove the branch, and then clean the pruning tool with a ten percent bleach solution or a household disinfectant before moving to another branch.
Larger branches are taken down with three cuts. Here’s the procedure:
The Undercut – From the trunk of the tree, measure 18 inches out along the branch. At the 18-inch mark, make a cut one-third to one-half of the way through the branch beginning at the underside and working in an upward direction. This cut prevents the falling branch from stripping bark and wood from the tree as it falls. The Main Cut – Measure an inch or two out from the undercut and cut the branch from the top downward. Cut all the way through as smoothly as possible. Tidying Up – The 18- to 20-inch stub that remains is an unnecessary eyesore, and can cause disease if it dies back. It will not regrow, so cut it off flush with the collar.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees need special pruning that begins while the tree is young. Proper pruning helps establish a graceful growth pattern and prevents damage as the tree grows. Let’s find out how to prune a willow tree.
Willow Tree Pruning
Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune.
Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree
When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree:
Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree
Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches?
Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
Willow Tree Pruning
Willow trees are more durable and have a better shape if you do most of the pruning and shaping while the tree is young. Pruning willow trees properly while they are young and easier to prune means you probably won’t have to make major changes in the tree’s structure when it is older and more difficult to prune.
Willow trees bleed sap if you prune them while they are actively growing, so the best time for willow tree pruning is in winter while the tree is dormant. Make sure you have the right tools for the job before you begin. Hand pruners are the tool of choice for small twigs and thin, whip-like stems that are no more than one-half inch in diameter. For stems up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter, use long-handled loppers. The longer handles give better leverage for cleaner cuts. Use a saw for anything larger.
Shaping a Young Tree
When trimming a willow tree sapling, the goal is to develop a strong central leader, which will later become the trunk of the tree. You also want to remove branches that are too close together as well as weak branches that are likely to break when they mature and become heavy. Here are the steps in shaping a willow tree:
Remove any damaged or broken branches. Make the cuts where the branch attaches to the trunk. Choose a tall, upright stem at the top of the tree as a central leader, and remove competing stems. Remove branches that grow up instead of out. A narrow crotch angle between the branch and the trunk makes it likely that the branch will break as the tree grows and the branch becomes heavy. Remove crowded branches. The result should be branches that are evenly spaced around the tree. Remove the branches from the lower part of the tree when the trunk reaches a diameter of 2 inches.
Pruning a Mature Tree
Mature willow trees don’t need a lot of pruning. The tree will heal faster with fewer disease problems if you remove broken branches and those that rub against each other. If you shorten the branches, always cut just beyond a leaf bud or twig. Don’t allow branches to grow on the lower part of the tree. If you catch new growth soon enough, you can stop it by pinching it off or rubbing it with your fingers. Willow trees grow quickly, and this makes them susceptible to wind breakage. Maintaining a little space between branches allows good air circulation and reduces the amount of breakage. Remove suckers arising directly from the ground by cutting them off at ground level or below. Suckers drain energy from the tree because they grow very quickly.
Can You Prune a Willow Tree to Shorten Weeping Branches?
Weeping willow trees develop long branches—sometimes long enough to reach the ground. While this gives the tree a graceful shape, it may not be practical in the landscape. The long branches can become an obstruction to foot traffic and make landscape maintenance more difficult than it has to be. You can shorten them to any length as long as you cut just below a leaf bud.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Smoke tree is an ornamental shrub to small tree that is grown for the bright purple or yellow leaves and the spring flowers that mature and “puff” out as if they were clouds of smoke. Smoke trees tend to have a rangy, splayed growth habit. Pruning smoke trees annually will help make the plant more compact and strengthen the limbs.
When to Prune a Smoke Tree
Trimming smoke trees can be done in late winter or very early spring.
As a general rule, pruning smoke trees for shape is done in very early spring when the plant is still mostly dormant and the process will create less stress. Summer flowering trees such as smoke tree need to be pruned before flower buds have shown. The rule for pruning deciduous flowering plants states that if it flowers after June 1, like the smoke bush, you need to prune in early spring. Smoke tree pruning can also be done in late winter if you wish to rejuvenate the plant and cut it all the way to the ground.
Pruning Smoke Trees
The method used when trimming smoke trees depends upon whether you want a tree or bush.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Tree
For a tree, you need to start young and remove all the extra stems, leaving only one strong central leader. You can shape it at this point and keep the plant below a certain height. General pruning will include removing old wood, diseased or broken plant material and managing any suckers and water spouts. Any crossed branches need to be removed to prevent crowding and rubbing.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Bush
Smoke tree pruning for a bush is much less laborious. You may allow the extra branches and simply prune limbs to manage shape. The natural splayed nature of growth can be amended by cutting the plant almost to the ground in late winter. This will force new growth and tighten the overall look of the bush. When you remove any of the main trunks, always cut to the base of the tree. Very small, unproductive twigs and branches should be removed from the center to create air flow and allow established wood room to grow.
Proper Cutting Techniques
Prior to pruning you need to make certain your implements are sharp and clean to prevent spreading diseases. When you need to remove a limb or large piece of wood, cut cleanly at a slight angle ¼-inch outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the swelling in the parent branch from which the secondary branch grew. Cutting this way prevents cutting into the parent wood and introducing pathogens.
It is rarely necessary to tip prune when pruning smoke trees, but if removing small amounts of wood always cut back to just before a growth node. This will prevent dead ends and create balance when the node sprouts.
When to Prune a Smoke Tree
Trimming smoke trees can be done in late winter or very early spring.
As a general rule, pruning smoke trees for shape is done in very early spring when the plant is still mostly dormant and the process will create less stress. Summer flowering trees such as smoke tree need to be pruned before flower buds have shown. The rule for pruning deciduous flowering plants states that if it flowers after June 1, like the smoke bush, you need to prune in early spring. Smoke tree pruning can also be done in late winter if you wish to rejuvenate the plant and cut it all the way to the ground.
Pruning Smoke Trees
The method used when trimming smoke trees depends upon whether you want a tree or bush.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Tree
For a tree, you need to start young and remove all the extra stems, leaving only one strong central leader. You can shape it at this point and keep the plant below a certain height. General pruning will include removing old wood, diseased or broken plant material and managing any suckers and water spouts. Any crossed branches need to be removed to prevent crowding and rubbing.
How to Prune a Smoke Tree as a Bush
Smoke tree pruning for a bush is much less laborious. You may allow the extra branches and simply prune limbs to manage shape. The natural splayed nature of growth can be amended by cutting the plant almost to the ground in late winter. This will force new growth and tighten the overall look of the bush. When you remove any of the main trunks, always cut to the base of the tree. Very small, unproductive twigs and branches should be removed from the center to create air flow and allow established wood room to grow.
Proper Cutting Techniques
Prior to pruning you need to make certain your implements are sharp and clean to prevent spreading diseases. When you need to remove a limb or large piece of wood, cut cleanly at a slight angle ¼-inch outside the branch collar. The branch collar is the swelling in the parent branch from which the secondary branch grew. Cutting this way prevents cutting into the parent wood and introducing pathogens.
It is rarely necessary to tip prune when pruning smoke trees, but if removing small amounts of wood always cut back to just before a growth node. This will prevent dead ends and create balance when the node sprouts.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Cutting back a palm tree will not make it grow faster. This myth has caused gardeners to do extensive palm tree pruning that doesn’t help and can hurt the tree. Pruning palm plants, like any plant pruning, must be undertaken carefully. If you want to know how and when to prune a palm tree to make it stronger and healthier, read on.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, it also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions and other pests. Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves. Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted or diseased fronds should be removed. On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy. In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, it also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions and other pests. Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves. Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted or diseased fronds should be removed. On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy. In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Hemlock trees are a popular conifer that is commonly used as either privacy shrubs or as visual anchor trees in the landscape. Most of the time, pruning hemlocks is not necessary, but occasionally weather damage, disease or competing main trunks on upright hemlocks can create the need for pruning hemlocks. Keep reading to learn how and when to prune hemlocks.
When to Prune Hemlocks
If you find that you need to prune your hemlock tree, the best time for trimming hemlocks is in either spring or early summer. At this time, the tree is getting ready for or is already in active growth and will recover quickly from any hemlock pruning that needs to be done. In the fall and winter, hemlocks are preparing to go dormant and are hardening themselves to be able to withstand the cold of winter. Pruning hemlock trees in fall or winter can confuse the tree, causing it to return to active growth rather than dormancy. At best, the new growth it does produce will be killed off in the cold and, at worst, the entire tree will be unable to withstand the winter cold and the entire tree will die.
How to Prune Hemlock Trees
Trimming Hemlock to Correct Damage from Weather or Disease
High winds or heavy snows can sometimes damage the branches of a hemlock and you may need to prune the tree in order to remove some of the damage or to help reshape the hemlock. Disease may also kill back some of the branches on the tree and you will need to remove the diseased branches. The first step in pruning hemlocks is use a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears or pruning saw, depending on the size of the branches you need to prune. Clean and sharp pruning tools will help to prevent disease.
The next step in trimming hemlock branches is to select which branches need to be removed. Select the branches before you start trimming so that you do not over prune the tree accidentally. Then make your pruning cuts just above the needle whorls. Hemlock trees will grow new branches from the needle wholes and pruning just above them will ensure that the new branches come in properly. If damage to the hemlock tree is extensive, severe pruning may be needed. Hemlock trees can withstand severe pruning and will recover from losing as much as 50% of its branches.
Pruning Hemlocks to Remove Competing Main Trunks
Upright hemlock varieties look best when they have only one main trunks, so home owners often want to remove secondary upright trunks that may start to grow. These secondary trunks can be pruned back to their starting point on the main trunk or can be cut at any point along the trunk to stop its upward growth and encourage side growth instead.
When to Prune Hemlocks
If you find that you need to prune your hemlock tree, the best time for trimming hemlocks is in either spring or early summer. At this time, the tree is getting ready for or is already in active growth and will recover quickly from any hemlock pruning that needs to be done. In the fall and winter, hemlocks are preparing to go dormant and are hardening themselves to be able to withstand the cold of winter. Pruning hemlock trees in fall or winter can confuse the tree, causing it to return to active growth rather than dormancy. At best, the new growth it does produce will be killed off in the cold and, at worst, the entire tree will be unable to withstand the winter cold and the entire tree will die.
How to Prune Hemlock Trees
Trimming Hemlock to Correct Damage from Weather or Disease
High winds or heavy snows can sometimes damage the branches of a hemlock and you may need to prune the tree in order to remove some of the damage or to help reshape the hemlock. Disease may also kill back some of the branches on the tree and you will need to remove the diseased branches. The first step in pruning hemlocks is use a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears or pruning saw, depending on the size of the branches you need to prune. Clean and sharp pruning tools will help to prevent disease.
The next step in trimming hemlock branches is to select which branches need to be removed. Select the branches before you start trimming so that you do not over prune the tree accidentally. Then make your pruning cuts just above the needle whorls. Hemlock trees will grow new branches from the needle wholes and pruning just above them will ensure that the new branches come in properly. If damage to the hemlock tree is extensive, severe pruning may be needed. Hemlock trees can withstand severe pruning and will recover from losing as much as 50% of its branches.
Pruning Hemlocks to Remove Competing Main Trunks
Upright hemlock varieties look best when they have only one main trunks, so home owners often want to remove secondary upright trunks that may start to grow. These secondary trunks can be pruned back to their starting point on the main trunk or can be cut at any point along the trunk to stop its upward growth and encourage side growth instead.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Rejuvenating a cypress tree necessarily means trimming, but you have to be careful how you wield those clippers. Cutting back cypress trees too drastically results in dead wood and unattractive trees. Read on for more information on pruning cypress trees.
Can You Prune a Cypress?
Cypress trees are narrow-leaf evergreens. Like other narrow-leaf evergreens, cypress do not develop new buds on the older wood. That means that cutting new shoots back to the branch may result in bare spots on the tree. On the other hand, cypress tree trimming is entirely feasible if you know what you are doing.
Cypress are one of several species classified as “scale-leaf” needled evergreens. Unlike pine trees, with leaves that look like needles, cypress leaves appear more like scales. Both cypress and false-cypress are included in this category. Rejuvenating a cypress tree that is overgrown or unshapely involves trimming. Although excess pruning is destructive to a cypress, cutting back cypress trees at the right time and in the right way creates a better, stronger tree.
Rejuvenating a Cypress Tree
If you are thinking of rejuvenating a cypress tree, it is important to prune at the correct time of year. Dead, broken and diseased branches should be removed as soon as possible after you notice the damage. However, pruning to shape the tree or reduce its size must wait for the appropriate season. When you are rejuvenating a cypress tree that is overgrown, begin cypress tree trimming just before new growth begins in the springtime. You can pick up the pruners again in late spring or early summer if necessary to control growth or maintain an attractive tree shape.
Tips on Cutting Back Cypress Trees
The rule when pruning cypress trees is to work slowly and gently. Proceed branch by branch to determine what cuts are necessary. Cut back each overly-long branch to a branch fork with a green shoot growing from it. This is the most important rule for cutting back cypress trees: never cut all green shoots from any branch since the branch will not be able to grow more. Proceed from the underside of the branches, slanting the cuts up.
When you are pruning cypress trees, aim for a natural look by pruning some branches deeper into the foliage than others. The tree should not look “pruned” when you are done.
Can You Prune a Cypress?
Cypress trees are narrow-leaf evergreens. Like other narrow-leaf evergreens, cypress do not develop new buds on the older wood. That means that cutting new shoots back to the branch may result in bare spots on the tree. On the other hand, cypress tree trimming is entirely feasible if you know what you are doing.
Cypress are one of several species classified as “scale-leaf” needled evergreens. Unlike pine trees, with leaves that look like needles, cypress leaves appear more like scales. Both cypress and false-cypress are included in this category. Rejuvenating a cypress tree that is overgrown or unshapely involves trimming. Although excess pruning is destructive to a cypress, cutting back cypress trees at the right time and in the right way creates a better, stronger tree.
Rejuvenating a Cypress Tree
If you are thinking of rejuvenating a cypress tree, it is important to prune at the correct time of year. Dead, broken and diseased branches should be removed as soon as possible after you notice the damage. However, pruning to shape the tree or reduce its size must wait for the appropriate season. When you are rejuvenating a cypress tree that is overgrown, begin cypress tree trimming just before new growth begins in the springtime. You can pick up the pruners again in late spring or early summer if necessary to control growth or maintain an attractive tree shape.
Tips on Cutting Back Cypress Trees
The rule when pruning cypress trees is to work slowly and gently. Proceed branch by branch to determine what cuts are necessary. Cut back each overly-long branch to a branch fork with a green shoot growing from it. This is the most important rule for cutting back cypress trees: never cut all green shoots from any branch since the branch will not be able to grow more. Proceed from the underside of the branches, slanting the cuts up.
When you are pruning cypress trees, aim for a natural look by pruning some branches deeper into the foliage than others. The tree should not look “pruned” when you are done.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Crabapple trees are pretty easy to maintain and don’t require vigorous pruning. The most important reasons to prune are to maintain the tree’s shape, to remove dead branches, and to treat or prevent the spread of disease.
When to Prune a Crabapple Tree
The time for crabapple pruning is when the tree is dormant, but when the possibility of severely cold weather has passed. This means pruning should be done in late winter or early spring, depending on your local climate and temperatures. Suckers, the little shoots that come straight out of the ground around the base of the tree, can be pruned away at any time of year.
How to Prune Crabapples
When pruning crabapple trees, start by removing suckers and water sprouts. The suckers grow from the rootstock of your tree and if you allow them to develop, they can grow into new trunks, possibly of a completely different tree type. This is because your crabapple was grafted onto the rootstock of a different variety.
Water sprouts are small shoots that emerge at an angle between some of the main tree branches. They don’t usually produce fruit and crowd other branches, increasing the risk of disease spreading from one branch to another. The next step in cutting back crabapple trees is to remove any dead branches. Remove them at the base.
Once you have taken off any dead branches, water sprouts, and suckers, you have to be a little more judicious about what to remove next. Remove branches to create a pleasing shape, but also consider removing branches to help them stay well-spaced from each other. Crowded branches make the spread of disease easier. You may also want to remove branches that hang too low and impede movement under the tree, especially if planted in an area frequented by passersby.
Just remember to keep your crabapple pruning simple and minimal. This tree doesn’t require heavy pruning, so take your time and consider how you want it to look before you start removing branches.
When to Prune a Crabapple Tree
The time for crabapple pruning is when the tree is dormant, but when the possibility of severely cold weather has passed. This means pruning should be done in late winter or early spring, depending on your local climate and temperatures. Suckers, the little shoots that come straight out of the ground around the base of the tree, can be pruned away at any time of year.
How to Prune Crabapples
When pruning crabapple trees, start by removing suckers and water sprouts. The suckers grow from the rootstock of your tree and if you allow them to develop, they can grow into new trunks, possibly of a completely different tree type. This is because your crabapple was grafted onto the rootstock of a different variety.
Water sprouts are small shoots that emerge at an angle between some of the main tree branches. They don’t usually produce fruit and crowd other branches, increasing the risk of disease spreading from one branch to another. The next step in cutting back crabapple trees is to remove any dead branches. Remove them at the base.
Once you have taken off any dead branches, water sprouts, and suckers, you have to be a little more judicious about what to remove next. Remove branches to create a pleasing shape, but also consider removing branches to help them stay well-spaced from each other. Crowded branches make the spread of disease easier. You may also want to remove branches that hang too low and impede movement under the tree, especially if planted in an area frequented by passersby.
Just remember to keep your crabapple pruning simple and minimal. This tree doesn’t require heavy pruning, so take your time and consider how you want it to look before you start removing branches.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
True cedars are forest giants, growing up to 200 feet tall. You might think that a tree of that size could tolerate any type of pruning, but nothing could be farther from the truth. Some experts recommend against ever pruning cedar trees. However, if cutting back cedar trees is in the cards, proceed very carefully. If you prune too deeply into the branches of the cedars, you’re likely to kill them. Read on for information about how and when to trim cedar trees.
The Problem with Cutting Back Cedar Trees
The problem with trimming a cedar tree is that every cedar has a dead zone in the center of the canopy. The new green growth is dense. It blocks the sunlight from the older growth beneath and without light, it dies. The outer green growth does not extend very deep into the tree. If you are pruning cedar trees and you cut branches back into the dead zone, they will not regrow.
When to Trim Cedar Trees
The general rule is that you shouldn’t prune true cedars very often. While some trees need pruning to establish a strong, balanced or graceful shape, the three types of true cedars that thrive in the United States – Lebanon, Deodar and Atlas cedar – do not. All three grow naturally into loose pyramid shapes. However, there are a few circumstances when it is a good idea trim cedar trees. One such circumstance is when a cedar develops two leaders. Cedars are stronger and more beautiful if they have only one central leader.
If your young cedar tree grows competing leaders, you’ll want to remove the weaker one. When trimming a cedar tree in this fashion, do so in early spring. Remove the weak leader at the point where it connects to the main stem. Sterilize the cutting tool before using it to prevent the spread of pathogens. Another time to start cutting back cedar trees is when you see damaged or dead branches. Prune out dead wood with sterilized clippers. If the cut should fall in the dead zone at the center of the cedar, cut it at the trunk instead.
How to Prune an Overgrown Cedar Tree
It happens. You thought your cedar would have enough room but it has filled up all the available space. That’s when you want to know how to prune an overgrown cedar tree. If your backyard cedars are pushing their allotted bounds, pruning cedar trees to contain their size must be done with caution. Here’s how to prune an overgrown cedar tree. Proceed branch by branch. Snip off the green branch tips on the first branch, making each cut above a lateral bud. Then proceed to the next branch and do the same.
The key is not to go pruning cedar trees into the dead zone. Check before each snip to be sure that there will be green branches on the tip of the branch.
The Problem with Cutting Back Cedar Trees
The problem with trimming a cedar tree is that every cedar has a dead zone in the center of the canopy. The new green growth is dense. It blocks the sunlight from the older growth beneath and without light, it dies. The outer green growth does not extend very deep into the tree. If you are pruning cedar trees and you cut branches back into the dead zone, they will not regrow.
When to Trim Cedar Trees
The general rule is that you shouldn’t prune true cedars very often. While some trees need pruning to establish a strong, balanced or graceful shape, the three types of true cedars that thrive in the United States – Lebanon, Deodar and Atlas cedar – do not. All three grow naturally into loose pyramid shapes. However, there are a few circumstances when it is a good idea trim cedar trees. One such circumstance is when a cedar develops two leaders. Cedars are stronger and more beautiful if they have only one central leader.
If your young cedar tree grows competing leaders, you’ll want to remove the weaker one. When trimming a cedar tree in this fashion, do so in early spring. Remove the weak leader at the point where it connects to the main stem. Sterilize the cutting tool before using it to prevent the spread of pathogens. Another time to start cutting back cedar trees is when you see damaged or dead branches. Prune out dead wood with sterilized clippers. If the cut should fall in the dead zone at the center of the cedar, cut it at the trunk instead.
How to Prune an Overgrown Cedar Tree
It happens. You thought your cedar would have enough room but it has filled up all the available space. That’s when you want to know how to prune an overgrown cedar tree. If your backyard cedars are pushing their allotted bounds, pruning cedar trees to contain their size must be done with caution. Here’s how to prune an overgrown cedar tree. Proceed branch by branch. Snip off the green branch tips on the first branch, making each cut above a lateral bud. Then proceed to the next branch and do the same.
The key is not to go pruning cedar trees into the dead zone. Check before each snip to be sure that there will be green branches on the tip of the branch.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Brugmansia makes attractive specimen plantings whether they’re grown in containers or situated in garden beds. However, in order to keep them looking their best, trimming brugmansia may be necessary.
How to Prune Brugmansia
Pruning brugmansia forces it to grow more limbs, thus produces more flowers. Therefore, knowing how to prune brugmansia is important. The correct method for pruning these shrub-like plants is to cut off all but the newest growth. Prune back tips to about ½ inch from the node. Do not prune the main leader unless you want to grow brugmansia in tree form. If you want a bushy tree, prune lateral branches at the joint. Begin pruning the plant when the main trunk forms its first “Y” and then prune back any older branches to encourage additional branching. Cut back as much as one-third of the plant. For larger plants, this could be as much as 1 to 2 feet. Keep in mind that tree form plants will need to be continually cut throughout the growing season to maintain their shape.
When to Trim a Brugmansia
To encourage additional blooms, trim brugmansia often. Since these plants bloom on new wood, you should trim a brugmansia whenever its growth becomes excessive. You can also prune brugmansia anytime you want to shape it. Generally, it takes about a month or more for blooms to appear after pruning, so you should trim a brugmansia after the last frost in spring. In addition, allowing them to remain unpruned throughout winter offers some protection from cold damage. If the plants are container grown, pruning brugmansia isn’t necessary unless you’re moving the plant indoors, in which case, fall is an acceptable time to prune. For those choosing to prune brugmansia during fall, be sure to keep enough nodes on the branches (above the “Y”) for additional flowering the following season.
Trimming Brugmansia Roots
You can also trim the taproot of potted plants, trimming just enough to fit into the bottom of the container. Root pruning stimulates new growth and allow you to grow brugmansia in the same container rather than having to repot. Root pruning is usually done in spring before new growth starts. To root prune brugmansia, Slide the plant out of the pot and loosen the roots with a fork, removing as much potting soil as possible. Then cut the thickest roots back by at least two-thirds. Allow the thin feeder roots to remain, perhaps lightly trimming the ends. Repot with fresh soil.
How to Prune Brugmansia
Pruning brugmansia forces it to grow more limbs, thus produces more flowers. Therefore, knowing how to prune brugmansia is important. The correct method for pruning these shrub-like plants is to cut off all but the newest growth. Prune back tips to about ½ inch from the node. Do not prune the main leader unless you want to grow brugmansia in tree form. If you want a bushy tree, prune lateral branches at the joint. Begin pruning the plant when the main trunk forms its first “Y” and then prune back any older branches to encourage additional branching. Cut back as much as one-third of the plant. For larger plants, this could be as much as 1 to 2 feet. Keep in mind that tree form plants will need to be continually cut throughout the growing season to maintain their shape.
When to Trim a Brugmansia
To encourage additional blooms, trim brugmansia often. Since these plants bloom on new wood, you should trim a brugmansia whenever its growth becomes excessive. You can also prune brugmansia anytime you want to shape it. Generally, it takes about a month or more for blooms to appear after pruning, so you should trim a brugmansia after the last frost in spring. In addition, allowing them to remain unpruned throughout winter offers some protection from cold damage. If the plants are container grown, pruning brugmansia isn’t necessary unless you’re moving the plant indoors, in which case, fall is an acceptable time to prune. For those choosing to prune brugmansia during fall, be sure to keep enough nodes on the branches (above the “Y”) for additional flowering the following season.
Trimming Brugmansia Roots
You can also trim the taproot of potted plants, trimming just enough to fit into the bottom of the container. Root pruning stimulates new growth and allow you to grow brugmansia in the same container rather than having to repot. Root pruning is usually done in spring before new growth starts. To root prune brugmansia, Slide the plant out of the pot and loosen the roots with a fork, removing as much potting soil as possible. Then cut the thickest roots back by at least two-thirds. Allow the thin feeder roots to remain, perhaps lightly trimming the ends. Repot with fresh soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Ash trees are popular and attractive landscape trees. However, pruning ash trees is essential if you want healthy, vigorous specimens. Cutting back ash trees appropriately helps to establish a strong branch structure around a central leader. It can also reduce diseases and limit pest damage. Read on to learn how to prune ash trees.
Reasons for Pruning Ash Trees
Ash trees are handsome deciduous trees, native to North America. They offer attractive, rounded crowns in the growing season and beautiful autumn colors. The wood is hard, but agile, and most baseball bats are made of ash. Ash trees have an opposite branching structure. The opposing branch growth usually requires pruning to keep the tree balanced. In addition, the tree can be attacked by diseases and pests that can be controlled by pruning.
Cutting Back Ash Trees
Trimming your tree is not difficult, but it helps if you follow a few ash tree pruning tips.
When to Prune Ash Trees
When to prune ash trees depends in part on why you are making the particular pruning cut. Unless you are pruning to remove dead and diseased branches, you should take care to prune in late winter, while the tree is still dormant. For example, if you must remove live branches to allow additional sunlight and air to circulate inside the tree crown, wait until winter to act.
Prune out broken, diseased, infected or dead ash tree branches whenever you spot them. The sooner you remove these branches, the less likely it is that decay-producing fungi spread to other areas of the tree. When you inspect the tree for problem branches, be sure to look at the underside of tree bark for an S-shaped pattern. This indicates the presence of the Emerald Ash wood-boring beetles, a pest that can quickly kill the tree. If you notice defoliation of some branches, it may be a sign of anthracnose. Any signs of brown areas on leaves or cankers on the branches should be your call to start pruning back ash trees in the very near future. These pests weaken the tree and can create serious problems if not addressed quickly by trimming back ash trees.
How to Prune Ash Trees
Use a three-step trimming method to remove branches from an ash tree. First, make a cut on the underside of the diseased or damaged branch. This cut should pass a quarter of the way through the branch about half a foot from the branch collar. Next, cut off the branch completely, making the cut one inch past the initial cut. This cut should be made from the top side of the branch. When you finish this cut, the branch will fall away. As a final step, remove the branch stump.
Reasons for Pruning Ash Trees
Ash trees are handsome deciduous trees, native to North America. They offer attractive, rounded crowns in the growing season and beautiful autumn colors. The wood is hard, but agile, and most baseball bats are made of ash. Ash trees have an opposite branching structure. The opposing branch growth usually requires pruning to keep the tree balanced. In addition, the tree can be attacked by diseases and pests that can be controlled by pruning.
Cutting Back Ash Trees
Trimming your tree is not difficult, but it helps if you follow a few ash tree pruning tips.
When to Prune Ash Trees
When to prune ash trees depends in part on why you are making the particular pruning cut. Unless you are pruning to remove dead and diseased branches, you should take care to prune in late winter, while the tree is still dormant. For example, if you must remove live branches to allow additional sunlight and air to circulate inside the tree crown, wait until winter to act.
Prune out broken, diseased, infected or dead ash tree branches whenever you spot them. The sooner you remove these branches, the less likely it is that decay-producing fungi spread to other areas of the tree. When you inspect the tree for problem branches, be sure to look at the underside of tree bark for an S-shaped pattern. This indicates the presence of the Emerald Ash wood-boring beetles, a pest that can quickly kill the tree. If you notice defoliation of some branches, it may be a sign of anthracnose. Any signs of brown areas on leaves or cankers on the branches should be your call to start pruning back ash trees in the very near future. These pests weaken the tree and can create serious problems if not addressed quickly by trimming back ash trees.
How to Prune Ash Trees
Use a three-step trimming method to remove branches from an ash tree. First, make a cut on the underside of the diseased or damaged branch. This cut should pass a quarter of the way through the branch about half a foot from the branch collar. Next, cut off the branch completely, making the cut one inch past the initial cut. This cut should be made from the top side of the branch. When you finish this cut, the branch will fall away. As a final step, remove the branch stump.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you live in a warm climate or in zones 8 through 11, you can prune your knockout roses in the winter. One season occurs in the spring and another in the fall. Pruning mature knockouts in the winter makes sense, but get expert advice from your local nursery or extension service. To prune knockouts in the winter, follow these suggestions.
Step 1
Prune only mature plants that are established and are 2 or 3 years old.
Step 2
Sharpen your clean pruning equipment and always cut at a 45-degree angle.
Step 3
Remove any thin canes or any diseased or damaged canes. If your temperature only rarely drops below freezing, you may have rose pests and eggs that do not die as they would in an area where it freezes hard. Be on the look out for insect damage and remove any canes that look questionable.
Step 4
Strip most of the leaves from the roses in the winter, which makes them vulnerable to pests, and spray with a horticultural oil.
Step 5
Activate the knockout into growth and blooming by pruning it back a little in the late winter before your first growing season in the spring.
Step 6
Keep the roses under control. If you want it smaller than the standard 3 x 4-foot tall size, prune it back in the late spring or early fall after it has bloomed. Be careful not to clip off flower buds.
Step 7
Remove dead or old canes during mild climates ideally, but this can be done at any time. Also cut very thin canes that might be coming up from the ground. You don't have to deadhead knockouts, but you can if you like to keep them looking groomed.
Step 8
Prune mature plants by using the 1/3 rule each year in the winter. Remove 1/3 of the oldest canes and any stems that are damaged, diseased or dead. This will keep the bush vibrant.
Step 1
Prune only mature plants that are established and are 2 or 3 years old.
Step 2
Sharpen your clean pruning equipment and always cut at a 45-degree angle.
Step 3
Remove any thin canes or any diseased or damaged canes. If your temperature only rarely drops below freezing, you may have rose pests and eggs that do not die as they would in an area where it freezes hard. Be on the look out for insect damage and remove any canes that look questionable.
Step 4
Strip most of the leaves from the roses in the winter, which makes them vulnerable to pests, and spray with a horticultural oil.
Step 5
Activate the knockout into growth and blooming by pruning it back a little in the late winter before your first growing season in the spring.
Step 6
Keep the roses under control. If you want it smaller than the standard 3 x 4-foot tall size, prune it back in the late spring or early fall after it has bloomed. Be careful not to clip off flower buds.
Step 7
Remove dead or old canes during mild climates ideally, but this can be done at any time. Also cut very thin canes that might be coming up from the ground. You don't have to deadhead knockouts, but you can if you like to keep them looking groomed.
Step 8
Prune mature plants by using the 1/3 rule each year in the winter. Remove 1/3 of the oldest canes and any stems that are damaged, diseased or dead. This will keep the bush vibrant.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Most cultivated rose varieties (Rosa spp.) are hybrids, rather than the natural "species" roses found growing in the wild. These wild rose species tend to grow vigorously, and require regular pruning to keep them in check. The best time for pruning wild roses is after they bloom. Wear gloves when pruning, because wild roses typically have many thorns.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose bushes (Rosa spp.) must be pruned at least once or twice each year. Heavy pruning is done in winter or, in some climates, early spring. Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the species. Prune the roses again in summer or fall right after they bloom to tidy them up and encourage new cane growth. Roses that produce flowers in spring and again in fall bloom more profusely in fall when pruned right after their spring bloom cycle.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Deadheading is a type of pruning where faded blooms are removed from a plant. Plants, particularly roses, are deadheaded to extend the amount of time the plant produces flowers, keep the plant compact and tidy, and stop the plant from producing seeds. Knockout roses are deadheaded to keep the plant looking tidy as this rose produces blooms from mid to late spring through fall even without deadheading. Knockout roses produce flushes of blooms every five to six weeks. Removing faded blooms can decrease the time between bloom production and increase the size and quality of the flowers.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
Disinfect Shears
Step 1
Make a disinfecting/sanitizing solution using bleach and water. Use a 1:10 dilution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Mixing the solution in a graded (has units of measurement on the side) bucket makes the solution portable as well as easier to mix. Sterilize your pruning shears in the 1:10 bleach solution between plants. Sterilize your pruning shears between cuts if you have a rose with a fungal or bacterial disease. Dip the cutting blades in the 1:10 solution. Open and close the blades several times while submerged. The blades do not have to dry before you start pruning.
Step 2
Prune faded and damaged blooms 1/2 to 1 inch above the nearest strong buds (the place where leaves and branches emerge) or branches.
Step 3
Avoid scratches and scrapes caused by rose thorns by wearing rose gloves or heavy-duty leather work gloves.
Step 4
Make pruning cuts on a 45-degree angle. The cut should angle away (meaning the short end should be closest to the bud or branch) from the bud or branch.
Step 5
Either burn deadheaded blooms or place in a trash bag and set out for trash pickup.
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