文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Pruning, fertilizing and winterizing are basic rose gardening chores that need to be followed to keep rose bushes healthy and thriving year after year. Shorter days and colder autumn temperatures are signs that rosarians look to when beginning to prepare their rose bushes for the freezing winter days ahead. With proper protection, however, roses can withstand extremely low subfreezing temperatures and still bloom hardily only a few months later.
Cold Hardiness
A rose bush's inherent hardiness contributes to its ability to withstand subfreezing temperatures. For example, old garden rose varieties can tolerate extremely cold winters, whereas more modern hybrid tea roses need considerable winter protection to survive the cold undamaged. Examples of hardy rose varieties include alba maxima, Maiden's Blush and Koenigen von Daenemark. Acclimation, midwinter hardiness and deacclimation also contribute to a rose's ability to survive freezing cold. Shorter days and decreasing temperatures trigger physiological and biochemical cues in rose bushes that prepare them for winter dormancy. Certain rose cultivars have maximum hardiness levels that allow them to withstand USDA zone 4a and 4b low temperatures of minus 20 to minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Early Preparation
To begin to prepare roses for their winter dormancy, discontinue fertilizing in late summer or early fall, or more specifically, a minimum of one month before your local first-frost date. Continuing to fertilize rose bushes in autumn promotes new growth at a time when the objective is the opposite. Also refrain from deheading or cutting blooms, and allow the development of rose hips, which encourages the plant to harden for winter. Lastly, to reduce risk of disease the following year, remove all leaf debris from around the base of the bush.
Complete Winterization
Despite the fact that roses can freeze at temperatures below 32 F, only basic winter protection is needed in areas where subfreezing temperatures stay above 20 F. The reason for this is that proper rose winterization keeps the plants cold and frozen throughout winter. The severe damaging effects come not specifically from the cold but rather alternating freezing and thawing. Therefore, do not cover rose bushes until at least one hard frost occurs. Then remove all dropped leaves and cover the plant with a soil and compost mix approximately 10 to 12 inches deep. After this mound freezes, add further insulation, such as evergreen boughs or straw.
Other Considerations
In areas with severe winters, like Minnesota and Vermont, additional protection is needed for roses to survive. One popular winterization method uses plastic foam rose cones that fit over bushes. Add a couple ventilation holes, however, to keep air from heating up inside. Another winterization method to consider in Northern regions is the "Minnesota Tip," in which the bush is partially uprooted, pushed over into a trench and covered with soil. Healthy roses that are properly tended year-round have greater chance of surviving extremely low subfreezing temperatures than those suffering from pests or disease.
Cold Hardiness
A rose bush's inherent hardiness contributes to its ability to withstand subfreezing temperatures. For example, old garden rose varieties can tolerate extremely cold winters, whereas more modern hybrid tea roses need considerable winter protection to survive the cold undamaged. Examples of hardy rose varieties include alba maxima, Maiden's Blush and Koenigen von Daenemark. Acclimation, midwinter hardiness and deacclimation also contribute to a rose's ability to survive freezing cold. Shorter days and decreasing temperatures trigger physiological and biochemical cues in rose bushes that prepare them for winter dormancy. Certain rose cultivars have maximum hardiness levels that allow them to withstand USDA zone 4a and 4b low temperatures of minus 20 to minus 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Early Preparation
To begin to prepare roses for their winter dormancy, discontinue fertilizing in late summer or early fall, or more specifically, a minimum of one month before your local first-frost date. Continuing to fertilize rose bushes in autumn promotes new growth at a time when the objective is the opposite. Also refrain from deheading or cutting blooms, and allow the development of rose hips, which encourages the plant to harden for winter. Lastly, to reduce risk of disease the following year, remove all leaf debris from around the base of the bush.
Complete Winterization
Despite the fact that roses can freeze at temperatures below 32 F, only basic winter protection is needed in areas where subfreezing temperatures stay above 20 F. The reason for this is that proper rose winterization keeps the plants cold and frozen throughout winter. The severe damaging effects come not specifically from the cold but rather alternating freezing and thawing. Therefore, do not cover rose bushes until at least one hard frost occurs. Then remove all dropped leaves and cover the plant with a soil and compost mix approximately 10 to 12 inches deep. After this mound freezes, add further insulation, such as evergreen boughs or straw.
Other Considerations
In areas with severe winters, like Minnesota and Vermont, additional protection is needed for roses to survive. One popular winterization method uses plastic foam rose cones that fit over bushes. Add a couple ventilation holes, however, to keep air from heating up inside. Another winterization method to consider in Northern regions is the "Minnesota Tip," in which the bush is partially uprooted, pushed over into a trench and covered with soil. Healthy roses that are properly tended year-round have greater chance of surviving extremely low subfreezing temperatures than those suffering from pests or disease.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Gardeners may plant Knock Out roses for their reputation as carefree shrubs, but these varieties do require care, including some pruning. In Tennessee, the best time to trim Knock Out roses will depend on what garden task you have in mind.
Winterizing
After the first hard freeze in fall is the best time to trim Knock Out roses to prepare them for winter, according to the Tennessee Rose Society. The society recommends trimming out dead wood and cutting living canes back by about 1/3.
Spring Pruning
Do an early spring pruning of Knock Out roses after the last hard frost, recommends the Conard-Pyle Co. website, removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the growth, cutting back to 12 to 18 inches. In Tennessee, the best time to complete spring trimming is by mid-March.
Summer Sprucing
Although Knock Out roses don't require dead-heading to keep blooming, the best time to trim off the spent blooms to spruce up your plants during the Tennessee summer is after each flush of blooms. When the petals have dropped and new buds are forming, your shrubs will look neater if you trim off the spent blooms before they form rose hips. At summer's end, you can leave some hips until winterizing, advises the Tennessee Rose Society.
Winterizing
After the first hard freeze in fall is the best time to trim Knock Out roses to prepare them for winter, according to the Tennessee Rose Society. The society recommends trimming out dead wood and cutting living canes back by about 1/3.
Spring Pruning
Do an early spring pruning of Knock Out roses after the last hard frost, recommends the Conard-Pyle Co. website, removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the growth, cutting back to 12 to 18 inches. In Tennessee, the best time to complete spring trimming is by mid-March.
Summer Sprucing
Although Knock Out roses don't require dead-heading to keep blooming, the best time to trim off the spent blooms to spruce up your plants during the Tennessee summer is after each flush of blooms. When the petals have dropped and new buds are forming, your shrubs will look neater if you trim off the spent blooms before they form rose hips. At summer's end, you can leave some hips until winterizing, advises the Tennessee Rose Society.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Any rose gardener knows that proper pruning is vital to the health of the bush and propagation of future blooms. They also know that disposal of the cuttings can be cumbersome and painful. The thorny branches are hard to handle and they don't degrade well in compost heaps. A good alternative is to burn your prunings.
Pruning Your Rose Bush
Pruning is vital to the proper growth of your rose bush. Wearing gloves and long sleeves, prune your plant, starting at its base. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut dead and diseased branches, shape the plant, and to foster new growth. Make cuts at 45 degree angles, above new buds.
When to Prune
Although your pruning season depends on the rose species and the USDA hardiness zone in which you live, the fall is generally considered a good time to cut back growth and ready the plant for winter. Long canes left exposed to the elements can become damaged under the weight of snow and ice and cause the roots to loosen from the safety of their soil. Plants that are at least two to three years old should also be pruned in the spring. If your plant has successfully grown to three or four feet, prune in the spring to hasten new growth, healthy blossoming and hardy root development.
Gather Cuttings
Collect all the cuttings from your bushes and leave them outdoors, exposed to sun. If you've got a patch of newly budding grass, the cuttings make a great deterrent for birds and pests. Otherwise, find a safe, sunlit spot where people and animals won't bump into your thorny pile. To fully dry your cuttings, expect to wait six months in most U.S. growing regions.
Use as Kindling
Once the rose cuttings are sufficiently dry, wear gloves and protective clothing and use sharp clippers to trim your prunings to a size that will fit properly to your fire pit. While there is no need to remove thorns, use care when handling the branches. Burn the cuttings outdoors as your community allows, or bring them indoors and use as kindling for woodstoves and fireplaces. Place along with paper below logs as an effective and economical fire starter.
Pruning Your Rose Bush
Pruning is vital to the proper growth of your rose bush. Wearing gloves and long sleeves, prune your plant, starting at its base. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut dead and diseased branches, shape the plant, and to foster new growth. Make cuts at 45 degree angles, above new buds.
When to Prune
Although your pruning season depends on the rose species and the USDA hardiness zone in which you live, the fall is generally considered a good time to cut back growth and ready the plant for winter. Long canes left exposed to the elements can become damaged under the weight of snow and ice and cause the roots to loosen from the safety of their soil. Plants that are at least two to three years old should also be pruned in the spring. If your plant has successfully grown to three or four feet, prune in the spring to hasten new growth, healthy blossoming and hardy root development.
Gather Cuttings
Collect all the cuttings from your bushes and leave them outdoors, exposed to sun. If you've got a patch of newly budding grass, the cuttings make a great deterrent for birds and pests. Otherwise, find a safe, sunlit spot where people and animals won't bump into your thorny pile. To fully dry your cuttings, expect to wait six months in most U.S. growing regions.
Use as Kindling
Once the rose cuttings are sufficiently dry, wear gloves and protective clothing and use sharp clippers to trim your prunings to a size that will fit properly to your fire pit. While there is no need to remove thorns, use care when handling the branches. Burn the cuttings outdoors as your community allows, or bring them indoors and use as kindling for woodstoves and fireplaces. Place along with paper below logs as an effective and economical fire starter.
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文章
linpei
2017年06月30日
Roses and roses and roses look the same, but not really. The cultivation of rose flowers need to pay attention to what aspects, and then from the soil, water, fertilizer, pruning and so on several aspects to introduce to you about the cultivation methods of roses.
About soil:
Roses do not select soil, but whether they are planted or planted, they are best grown in sandy soil rich in humus.
About moisture:
Rose like run and afraid of wet avoid waterlogging, from germination to flowering, water can be more appropriate to pouring a little, but not for the degree of soil moist waterlogging, after watering flowers can not be too much to see the soil dry and wet, rainy season should pay attention to drainage.
About fertilizer:
It is also like fertilizer, barren, March can be 1 to 2 times with nitrogen based fertilizer, promote the growth of branches, April, May 2 times to 3 times the phosphorus and potassium based fertilizers, and promote its multi bud flowering, after flowering Zaishi a rejuvenation after fertilizer can no longer rose fertilization system positive flower, it is warm, cold, North and south, can overwinter safely outdoors.
About pruning:
The germination ability of the rose is vigorous and the growth is luxuriant. If it is not pruned in time, it is easy to produce diseases and insect pests under the condition of hot and humid, lack of light and poor ventilation. Therefore, a pruning should be carried out after the flower.
About plant diseases and insect pests:
In the rainy and humid, poor ventilation, poor sunshine conditions rose susceptible to powdery mildew, once discovered will cut the diseased branches destroyed, in order to avoid infection, and spraying low concentration of LSSS or Bordeaux, Topsin solution, to prevent the spread of the disease.
About soil:
Roses do not select soil, but whether they are planted or planted, they are best grown in sandy soil rich in humus.
About moisture:
Rose like run and afraid of wet avoid waterlogging, from germination to flowering, water can be more appropriate to pouring a little, but not for the degree of soil moist waterlogging, after watering flowers can not be too much to see the soil dry and wet, rainy season should pay attention to drainage.
About fertilizer:
It is also like fertilizer, barren, March can be 1 to 2 times with nitrogen based fertilizer, promote the growth of branches, April, May 2 times to 3 times the phosphorus and potassium based fertilizers, and promote its multi bud flowering, after flowering Zaishi a rejuvenation after fertilizer can no longer rose fertilization system positive flower, it is warm, cold, North and south, can overwinter safely outdoors.
About pruning:
The germination ability of the rose is vigorous and the growth is luxuriant. If it is not pruned in time, it is easy to produce diseases and insect pests under the condition of hot and humid, lack of light and poor ventilation. Therefore, a pruning should be carried out after the flower.
About plant diseases and insect pests:
In the rainy and humid, poor ventilation, poor sunshine conditions rose susceptible to powdery mildew, once discovered will cut the diseased branches destroyed, in order to avoid infection, and spraying low concentration of LSSS or Bordeaux, Topsin solution, to prevent the spread of the disease.
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文章
Abigal
2017年02月23日
I wanted to touch base about pruning #trees at this time of year, because as soon as the holidays are over, many of you do exactly that. And if you have run across any of the “guides” on pruning trees written by the extension programs of state universities, you may have had your head spin around. Here are all the simple guidelines on how, and when to prune your trees.
When to Prune Trees
For all of you who pull out the clippers and loppers right after Christmas, don’t! Most trees will come out healthier on the other end if you wait until after the coldest part of winter has passed, but before vigorous growth starts in early spring. For most people that’s February to March. That having been said, it’s ok to do minor pruning to weed out dead branches, etc… at any time of year. Note: it is okay to still prune fruit trees if they have started to flower. In fact, fruit trees tend to get some winter kill of branches, and waiting for the first flowers will help you determine which branches are dead and need to be removed.
How to Prune Large Trees
Short answer? Don’t. Large trees need an arborist or tree trimming service for both safety and health of the tree. Fortunately, large trees rarely need to be pruned yearly!
How to Prune Small Trees
You prune decorative garden trees for two reasons… First, is to improve the health of the tree. Pruning creates more compact and healthy growth, and opens up the crown for good air circulation. Second, to improve the appearance of the tree. Every time you make a cut in your tree, first think about which one of those objectives you are trying to achieve… if your cut fits with one of those two, it’s a good cut.
Note: Make sure your pruners and loppers are sharp and clean. You don’t want to invite fungus or disease.
To prune a small tree for health, first you want to remove any dead or unhealthy branches. Make your cuts just outside the collar of the branch…don’t cut too close to the trunk, and on the other side, don’t leave a stub. Below is an example of a proper cut. If branches cross over or are too thick, prune them out to allow the branches you leave room to grow and flourish. Most people are not aggressive enough in thinning out branches.
Now prune for shape and size. Step back and look at your tree, and know what it’s natural shape should be. For instance, is it a weeping tree, or a graceful vase shape? Make sure you remove branches that are interfering with the shape you want your tree to take. Step back after every cut and re-evaluate. Try to remove most of your branches at the trunk, but if you need to shorten a branch, don’t cut it in the middle… make your cut a quarter inch above a bud.
How to Prune Fruit Trees
Pruning fruit trees is slightly different in that the main purpose is to encourage stronger growth of the fruit itself, not size of the tree. This involves creating a more compact tree and only leaving the strongest branches, which results in large and more flavorful fruit.
According to Dr. Lee Reich, author of “Landscaping with Fruits”, “You need to make thinning cuts and heading cuts—to keep the center of the tree open and to stimulate new growth for the following year. And in general you need to cut more than you probably think you should.”
Also suggested by Dr. Reich is a good visual tool for deciding whether you have thinned your fruit trees far enough…another place most people are not aggressive enough. He calls it his “cat tossing method”. Yes, I find this disturbing, but it’s a good visual… He says if when you are finished pruning, you could toss a cat through the branches, you’ve done enough. Not the analogy I would use, and I’m torn between laughing at the craziness of it, and feeling really disturbed. But there you are, one of the leading authorities on pruning. How about this, he offers an alternative for those of us a bit sensitive… If a large bird can fly through the branches, you are good. Why didn’t you just say that in the first place, Dr. Reich? :) His basic rule for thinning fruit on apple and peach trees is that for every 20 blossoms, only one should remain. Yep, that aggressive.
So prune your trees at the right time, with the right technique. It will improve their curb appeal, their flowering and fruiting, and their health. It’s not hard, just take it one cut at a time!
When to Prune Trees
For all of you who pull out the clippers and loppers right after Christmas, don’t! Most trees will come out healthier on the other end if you wait until after the coldest part of winter has passed, but before vigorous growth starts in early spring. For most people that’s February to March. That having been said, it’s ok to do minor pruning to weed out dead branches, etc… at any time of year. Note: it is okay to still prune fruit trees if they have started to flower. In fact, fruit trees tend to get some winter kill of branches, and waiting for the first flowers will help you determine which branches are dead and need to be removed.
How to Prune Large Trees
Short answer? Don’t. Large trees need an arborist or tree trimming service for both safety and health of the tree. Fortunately, large trees rarely need to be pruned yearly!
How to Prune Small Trees
You prune decorative garden trees for two reasons… First, is to improve the health of the tree. Pruning creates more compact and healthy growth, and opens up the crown for good air circulation. Second, to improve the appearance of the tree. Every time you make a cut in your tree, first think about which one of those objectives you are trying to achieve… if your cut fits with one of those two, it’s a good cut.
Note: Make sure your pruners and loppers are sharp and clean. You don’t want to invite fungus or disease.
To prune a small tree for health, first you want to remove any dead or unhealthy branches. Make your cuts just outside the collar of the branch…don’t cut too close to the trunk, and on the other side, don’t leave a stub. Below is an example of a proper cut. If branches cross over or are too thick, prune them out to allow the branches you leave room to grow and flourish. Most people are not aggressive enough in thinning out branches.
Now prune for shape and size. Step back and look at your tree, and know what it’s natural shape should be. For instance, is it a weeping tree, or a graceful vase shape? Make sure you remove branches that are interfering with the shape you want your tree to take. Step back after every cut and re-evaluate. Try to remove most of your branches at the trunk, but if you need to shorten a branch, don’t cut it in the middle… make your cut a quarter inch above a bud.
How to Prune Fruit Trees
Pruning fruit trees is slightly different in that the main purpose is to encourage stronger growth of the fruit itself, not size of the tree. This involves creating a more compact tree and only leaving the strongest branches, which results in large and more flavorful fruit.
According to Dr. Lee Reich, author of “Landscaping with Fruits”, “You need to make thinning cuts and heading cuts—to keep the center of the tree open and to stimulate new growth for the following year. And in general you need to cut more than you probably think you should.”
Also suggested by Dr. Reich is a good visual tool for deciding whether you have thinned your fruit trees far enough…another place most people are not aggressive enough. He calls it his “cat tossing method”. Yes, I find this disturbing, but it’s a good visual… He says if when you are finished pruning, you could toss a cat through the branches, you’ve done enough. Not the analogy I would use, and I’m torn between laughing at the craziness of it, and feeling really disturbed. But there you are, one of the leading authorities on pruning. How about this, he offers an alternative for those of us a bit sensitive… If a large bird can fly through the branches, you are good. Why didn’t you just say that in the first place, Dr. Reich? :) His basic rule for thinning fruit on apple and peach trees is that for every 20 blossoms, only one should remain. Yep, that aggressive.
So prune your trees at the right time, with the right technique. It will improve their curb appeal, their flowering and fruiting, and their health. It’s not hard, just take it one cut at a time!
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