文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Monkey grass (Liriope spicata) is a grass that is quite common in areas that are hilly or uneven because they fill in the area quite nicely. It comes in thick and is quite easy to grow. A lot of people are not sure about what to do about pruning monkey grass or cutting monkey grass. They ask themselves, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” or “may I mow it, or do I need to trim with clippers?” When you worry about how well you take care of your yard or land, you might be worried, but there is nothing to worry about.
What is Monkey Grass?
Monkey grass is a member of the lily family. What makes turfs from the lily family so desirable a landscape material is that they are quite versatile and can handle many different environmental conditions. Monkey grass can handle hot conditions better than a lot of shrubs and ground covers can. They are especially easy to grow and maintain on steep slopes where it is hard to maintain any sort of grass.
Tips for Trimming Back Monkey Grass
If you are wondering when to cut back monkey grass or can you mow monkey grass, you are not alone. A lot of people don’t know what to do with it. Pruning monkey grass or trimming back monkey grass isn’t too complicated. It will start to grow by mid-spring. If you want to know when to cut back monkey grass, you can cut the plants back to 3 inches early spring. Pruning monkey grass helps take out the battered leaves and permits new leaves to come in and flourish. Cutting monkey grass with a lawnmower or trimmer is great for larger areas of the grass, but trimmers work just as well on pruning monkey grass where it is growing in a smaller area.
After trimming back monkey grass, you can fertilize and feed the area. Be sure to include weed control as well. If you have just finished trimming back monkey grass, make sure to mulch the area with straw, bark or compost. This way it will be ready for a new season of growing. If you are wondering, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” you now know you can cut it as if you used a mower, or use a mower for cutting monkey grass so you can get it read for the growing season. This way it will be healthy and fill in nicely.
What is Monkey Grass?
Monkey grass is a member of the lily family. What makes turfs from the lily family so desirable a landscape material is that they are quite versatile and can handle many different environmental conditions. Monkey grass can handle hot conditions better than a lot of shrubs and ground covers can. They are especially easy to grow and maintain on steep slopes where it is hard to maintain any sort of grass.
Tips for Trimming Back Monkey Grass
If you are wondering when to cut back monkey grass or can you mow monkey grass, you are not alone. A lot of people don’t know what to do with it. Pruning monkey grass or trimming back monkey grass isn’t too complicated. It will start to grow by mid-spring. If you want to know when to cut back monkey grass, you can cut the plants back to 3 inches early spring. Pruning monkey grass helps take out the battered leaves and permits new leaves to come in and flourish. Cutting monkey grass with a lawnmower or trimmer is great for larger areas of the grass, but trimmers work just as well on pruning monkey grass where it is growing in a smaller area.
After trimming back monkey grass, you can fertilize and feed the area. Be sure to include weed control as well. If you have just finished trimming back monkey grass, make sure to mulch the area with straw, bark or compost. This way it will be ready for a new season of growing. If you are wondering, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” you now know you can cut it as if you used a mower, or use a mower for cutting monkey grass so you can get it read for the growing season. This way it will be healthy and fill in nicely.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Few plants make as bold a statement in the landscape as pampas grass. These showy plants require little care except for the annual pruning, which isn’t a job for the faint of heart. Find out about pruning pampas grass in this article.
How to Prune Pampas Grass
Pampas grass needs annual pruning to get rid of the old foliage and make room for new growth. The foliage is tough and razor sharp. You’ll need to wear leather gloves, long pants and a long sleeve shirt to avoid getting cut.
Pampas grass pruning is much easier when you have proper tools for the job. Hedge pruners and electric shear aren’t up to the task. The best tool for the job is a chainsaw. If you’re like me, a smallish person who is intimidated by a chainsaw, you can use long-handled loppers. The long handles on loppers provide more leverage than short handled tools and make the job of cutting pampas grass plants easier, but even so, you can expect sore muscles and a few blisters the next day.
Before you begin, you might want to use a long stick to poke around the base of the plant and make sure there isn’t anything unexpected inside. Small mammals often use the cover of pampas grass foliage as a winter nesting site. Once you’re sure the grass is free of critters, you’re ready to begin. Cut through the leaves near the base of the plant to leave a tuft of foliage 6 to 8 inches tall. You may have seen people burning off the remaining stubs, but you’ll get healthier and stronger regrowth if you leave it alone. After pruning, broadcast a handful or two of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 fertilizer around the plant.
When to Cut Back Pampas Grass
The best time to cut back pampas grass is in late winter just before the plant begins sending up new foliage. Waiting until the end of winter allows you to enjoy the plumes all year. Every once in a while, clumps of pampas grass form smaller clumps off to the side. Remove these clumps when you do your annual pruning to prevent overcrowding and to preserve the shape of the clump. Thin the clump every three years or so. This is a big job. Separating the roots requires the use of a heavy duty saw or an axe. Dig up and remove about one-third of the foliage.
How to Prune Pampas Grass
Pampas grass needs annual pruning to get rid of the old foliage and make room for new growth. The foliage is tough and razor sharp. You’ll need to wear leather gloves, long pants and a long sleeve shirt to avoid getting cut.
Pampas grass pruning is much easier when you have proper tools for the job. Hedge pruners and electric shear aren’t up to the task. The best tool for the job is a chainsaw. If you’re like me, a smallish person who is intimidated by a chainsaw, you can use long-handled loppers. The long handles on loppers provide more leverage than short handled tools and make the job of cutting pampas grass plants easier, but even so, you can expect sore muscles and a few blisters the next day.
Before you begin, you might want to use a long stick to poke around the base of the plant and make sure there isn’t anything unexpected inside. Small mammals often use the cover of pampas grass foliage as a winter nesting site. Once you’re sure the grass is free of critters, you’re ready to begin. Cut through the leaves near the base of the plant to leave a tuft of foliage 6 to 8 inches tall. You may have seen people burning off the remaining stubs, but you’ll get healthier and stronger regrowth if you leave it alone. After pruning, broadcast a handful or two of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 fertilizer around the plant.
When to Cut Back Pampas Grass
The best time to cut back pampas grass is in late winter just before the plant begins sending up new foliage. Waiting until the end of winter allows you to enjoy the plumes all year. Every once in a while, clumps of pampas grass form smaller clumps off to the side. Remove these clumps when you do your annual pruning to prevent overcrowding and to preserve the shape of the clump. Thin the clump every three years or so. This is a big job. Separating the roots requires the use of a heavy duty saw or an axe. Dig up and remove about one-third of the foliage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Pruning mint is a pleasant task, as the plants release a new burst of minty fragrance with each cut you make. You have two objectives when pruning the plant: to keep the bed healthy and to prevent it from flowering and going to seed. Flowering reduces the quality and potency of the leaves. Read on to find out when and how to prune mint plants. Never be afraid to pinch a few sprigs of mint when you need them, but if you need a large quantity of mint, wait until pruning time. If you want a low-growing bed of mint, you can keep it as short as 4 inches. This is a good height for mint grown in small containers. Otherwise, let it grow 8 to 12 inches tall before you prune it.
When to Prune Mint
You can sometimes get a light harvest from mint during the first year, but it’s generally best to wait until the second year, just before the plants bloom. After mint blooms, it loses some of its essential oil, making the leaves less fragrant and flavorful. Watch for the buds that indicate when the plant is about to bloom. Once buds appear, you can pinch them or cut back the plants. During the second year, you can cut the plants back two or three times. Trimming mint plants to the ground before winter is an essential part of preventing insect pests and diseases, such as anthracnose, that would otherwise overwinter in the plants.
How to Prune Mint
If you’re pruning mint during the growing season, cut the plants back by about half. This will remove the tips of the plant where the flowers would otherwise bloom and provide plenty of mint for fresh use, freezing or drying. When you perform mint plant pruning at the end of the year or end of season, cut them to within an inch of the ground. If you have a large bed, you can use a lawn mower.
When to Prune Mint
You can sometimes get a light harvest from mint during the first year, but it’s generally best to wait until the second year, just before the plants bloom. After mint blooms, it loses some of its essential oil, making the leaves less fragrant and flavorful. Watch for the buds that indicate when the plant is about to bloom. Once buds appear, you can pinch them or cut back the plants. During the second year, you can cut the plants back two or three times. Trimming mint plants to the ground before winter is an essential part of preventing insect pests and diseases, such as anthracnose, that would otherwise overwinter in the plants.
How to Prune Mint
If you’re pruning mint during the growing season, cut the plants back by about half. This will remove the tips of the plant where the flowers would otherwise bloom and provide plenty of mint for fresh use, freezing or drying. When you perform mint plant pruning at the end of the year or end of season, cut them to within an inch of the ground. If you have a large bed, you can use a lawn mower.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Bay leaf is known as a seasoning, but those leaves grow on a tree of the same name. It can row to 60 feet (18 m.) high in the wild. Can you grow bay in a container? It is entirely possible. A bay leaf tree in a pot is attractive, accepts pruning and stays much smaller than forest trees. For information about growing bay leaves in containers, read on.
Bay Laurel in a Container
Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis), also called bay laurel or bay tree, is an evergreen tree native to the Mediterranean region. It is known to American cooks as a seasoning, but to gardeners, it is also a charming garden ornamental. Bay leaf has been grown for centuries. The famous celebratory “crown of laurels” was made from bay leaf. In addition, the leaves are used medicinally in Europe.
Bay laurel has attractive, shiny foliage that stays on the tree all year round. Add to that the delight of a sweet fragrance with a touch of spicy nutmeg. The tree grows yellow flowers that turn into dark berries in the autumn. Container grown bay trees are nice additions to a small garden. If you are growing bay leaves in containers, you can leave them outside in winter if you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. If your climate is cooler, you’ll have to carry the container-grown bay trees inside in winter.
How to Grow Bay Leaf Tree in a Pot
A bay leaf can grow into a towering tree over time, so how can you grow bay in a container? The fact is, bay leaf grows very slowly and accepts almost severe pruning. You can snip it down to size by pruning every year. And when you grow bay laurel in a container, the tree naturally stays smaller than when its roots are in the soil. To start growing bay leaves in containers, you can plant bay leaf seeds. But seeds take a long time to get started. It’s faster if you purchase small seedlings. They will ultimately grow into mature bay trees. Drainage is very important to a bay leaf. Select a container with ample drain holes and use container soil that drains easily. Start with a small pot and repot when necessary. Don’t be in a hurry to transplant your bay laurel in a container. The plants do well when they are a little cramped. Wait until you see roots coming out of the container’s drainage holes.
Where to put a bay leaf tree in a pot? If it is outdoors, select a spot that is somewhat protected from the elements. Pick a spot with some shade and with wind protection. If you bring the pot inside during cold weather, put it in a cool spot. It will go dormant, so won’t require much water or sun. If you site the bay leaf tree in a pot in a warmer area, it will not be dormant, so you’ll need to make sure it gets some sun and regular water.
Bay Laurel in a Container
Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis), also called bay laurel or bay tree, is an evergreen tree native to the Mediterranean region. It is known to American cooks as a seasoning, but to gardeners, it is also a charming garden ornamental. Bay leaf has been grown for centuries. The famous celebratory “crown of laurels” was made from bay leaf. In addition, the leaves are used medicinally in Europe.
Bay laurel has attractive, shiny foliage that stays on the tree all year round. Add to that the delight of a sweet fragrance with a touch of spicy nutmeg. The tree grows yellow flowers that turn into dark berries in the autumn. Container grown bay trees are nice additions to a small garden. If you are growing bay leaves in containers, you can leave them outside in winter if you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. If your climate is cooler, you’ll have to carry the container-grown bay trees inside in winter.
How to Grow Bay Leaf Tree in a Pot
A bay leaf can grow into a towering tree over time, so how can you grow bay in a container? The fact is, bay leaf grows very slowly and accepts almost severe pruning. You can snip it down to size by pruning every year. And when you grow bay laurel in a container, the tree naturally stays smaller than when its roots are in the soil. To start growing bay leaves in containers, you can plant bay leaf seeds. But seeds take a long time to get started. It’s faster if you purchase small seedlings. They will ultimately grow into mature bay trees. Drainage is very important to a bay leaf. Select a container with ample drain holes and use container soil that drains easily. Start with a small pot and repot when necessary. Don’t be in a hurry to transplant your bay laurel in a container. The plants do well when they are a little cramped. Wait until you see roots coming out of the container’s drainage holes.
Where to put a bay leaf tree in a pot? If it is outdoors, select a spot that is somewhat protected from the elements. Pick a spot with some shade and with wind protection. If you bring the pot inside during cold weather, put it in a cool spot. It will go dormant, so won’t require much water or sun. If you site the bay leaf tree in a pot in a warmer area, it will not be dormant, so you’ll need to make sure it gets some sun and regular water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
While pruning a rosemary plant is not needed to keep a rosemary healthy, there are several reasons why a gardener might want to prune a rosemary bush. It may be that they want to shape the rosemary or reduce the size of the rosemary shrub or to create a more bushy and productive plant. Whatever your reasons for wanting to prune your rosemary, there are a few things you need to know about how to prune a rosemary bush.
When to Prune Rosemary
Rosemary pruning can be done anytime during the spring or summer up until four to six weeks before the first frost. Pruning rosemary after this time, or in the fall and winter, can cause the rosemary shrub to focus on growing new, tender growth rather than hardening off and protecting the growth that it has. If a rosemary bush does not harden itself off, it will be more susceptible to winter damage which can kill it.
Tips for How to Prune a Rosemary Bush
Before you prune your rosemary bush, make sure that your pruning shears are sharp and clean. Blunt or dirty pruning shears can result in ragged cuts that can leave the rosemary plant vulnerable to bacteria and pests. The next step in how to trim rosemary bushes is to decide why you want to trim the plant. If you are trimming the rosemary to shape it, say as a hedge or a topiary, draw a mental picture of what you would like the plant to look like and trim away the branches that do not fall into that outline. If your shaping needs to remove more than one-third of any branch, you will need to prune the rosemary back in stages. You can prune back branches by one-quarter, but you will need to give them a season to recover before pruning again.
If you are doing rosemary pruning simply to create a busier plant, you can remove the end one to two inches of the branches. This will force the branch to split and will create a bushier plant. This technique is particularly helpful if you are growing rosemary for cooking, as this creates more foliage in a more compact space. You may also find that your rosemary plant is in need of some rejuvenation. Find tips for this here: Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants. The steps for how to prune a rosemary bush are simple but important. Knowing how to trim rosemary bushes properly will help you keep your rosemary happy and manageable.
When to Prune Rosemary
Rosemary pruning can be done anytime during the spring or summer up until four to six weeks before the first frost. Pruning rosemary after this time, or in the fall and winter, can cause the rosemary shrub to focus on growing new, tender growth rather than hardening off and protecting the growth that it has. If a rosemary bush does not harden itself off, it will be more susceptible to winter damage which can kill it.
Tips for How to Prune a Rosemary Bush
Before you prune your rosemary bush, make sure that your pruning shears are sharp and clean. Blunt or dirty pruning shears can result in ragged cuts that can leave the rosemary plant vulnerable to bacteria and pests. The next step in how to trim rosemary bushes is to decide why you want to trim the plant. If you are trimming the rosemary to shape it, say as a hedge or a topiary, draw a mental picture of what you would like the plant to look like and trim away the branches that do not fall into that outline. If your shaping needs to remove more than one-third of any branch, you will need to prune the rosemary back in stages. You can prune back branches by one-quarter, but you will need to give them a season to recover before pruning again.
If you are doing rosemary pruning simply to create a busier plant, you can remove the end one to two inches of the branches. This will force the branch to split and will create a bushier plant. This technique is particularly helpful if you are growing rosemary for cooking, as this creates more foliage in a more compact space. You may also find that your rosemary plant is in need of some rejuvenation. Find tips for this here: Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants. The steps for how to prune a rosemary bush are simple but important. Knowing how to trim rosemary bushes properly will help you keep your rosemary happy and manageable.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Pruning lavender is important in keeping a lavender plant producing the type of fragrant foliage that most gardeners seek. If lavender isn’t pruned regularly, it will become woody and produce fewer fragrant leaves and flowers. If you’re wondering how to prune lavender and when to prune lavender at the correct time, have no fear. All of this information is listed below.
When to Prune Lavender
You’ll start trimming lavender in the second year that it is in the ground. Newly planted or very young plants need a chance to establish themselves, and in order to do this, they need to be able to focus on growing roots. If you cut back lavender in its first year, it will put energy towards growing leaves rather than roots and this will make it a weaker plant in the long term. Once your lavender plant has had one year to establish itself, you’ll need to prune your lavender once a year. The best time for when to prune lavender is in the spring just as the new growth is starting to come in.
How to Prune Lavender
When pruning lavender, it’s important to start out with a sharp, clean set of pruning shears. Wipe down the blades of your pruning shears with rubbing alcohol or bleach to make sure all bacteria and potentially harmful germs are removed from the blades. The next step for trimming lavender is to prune one-third of the plant. This will force the lavender to create new and more growth, which will not only keep the lavender bush from going woody, but will also help to increase the amount of lavender available for harvest later in the season. Properly pruning lavender will help your lavender produce more and stay healthier and more lovely. If you follow these easy tips for how to prune lavender, you can’t go wrong.
When to Prune Lavender
You’ll start trimming lavender in the second year that it is in the ground. Newly planted or very young plants need a chance to establish themselves, and in order to do this, they need to be able to focus on growing roots. If you cut back lavender in its first year, it will put energy towards growing leaves rather than roots and this will make it a weaker plant in the long term. Once your lavender plant has had one year to establish itself, you’ll need to prune your lavender once a year. The best time for when to prune lavender is in the spring just as the new growth is starting to come in.
How to Prune Lavender
When pruning lavender, it’s important to start out with a sharp, clean set of pruning shears. Wipe down the blades of your pruning shears with rubbing alcohol or bleach to make sure all bacteria and potentially harmful germs are removed from the blades. The next step for trimming lavender is to prune one-third of the plant. This will force the lavender to create new and more growth, which will not only keep the lavender bush from going woody, but will also help to increase the amount of lavender available for harvest later in the season. Properly pruning lavender will help your lavender produce more and stay healthier and more lovely. If you follow these easy tips for how to prune lavender, you can’t go wrong.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cactus are low maintenance plants that generally thrive with neglect and do not require a lot of pampering. It might surprise you to find that cacti can and do need to be pruned now and then. Cactus pruning is not always necessary and when to prune a cactus plant will depend upon why you are trimming it. A few notes on how to cut back a cactus for purposes of propagation, rejuvenation and structural integrity will send you on the road to cleaning up your succulents properly.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias, Crassula and Senecios have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like totem pole cacti or organ pipe cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other succulents in the family will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant. Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens. The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease. Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them. For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point. Plants like agave will need the old leaves removed to preserve the appearance. Cut them away at the base of the plant with shears.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves. Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species. Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus. Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately. Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month. Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
Can You Trim a Cactus?
New succulent growers may ask, “Can you trim a cactus?” Most cacti really don’t need any form of shaping unless they have a great huge limb that looks ready to tip the plant over. The major reasons for trimming cactus are to remove parts to root for new plants, remove offsets or pups for the same reason, reinvigorate a plant that has gotten too tall or too leggy, and to take off damaged material.
Cacti come in a wide range of forms. Cactus pruning can enhance these forms while preventing overcrowding, which can increase the chance of disease, mildew and unhealthy plants. The Opuntias, Crassula and Senecios have pads that serve as leaves and these are easy to remove and can be used to start new plants. Columnar plants, like totem pole cacti or organ pipe cacti, may simply get too tall or spindly and require a judicious beheading to force branching or simply thicker stems. Still other succulents in the family will produce flower stalks which are persistent and become ugly when dead. Removal of these will restore the beauty of the plant. Trimming cactus has a variety of purposes, but the good news is that you can use many of the parts you remove to start new plants.
How to Cut Back a Cactus
The “how” of cutting back a cactus answers like a bad joke. The simple answer is, very carefully. Most cacti have some type of spine or prickle which can be painful to encounter. Use thick gloves and wear long pants and sleeves for the bigger garden specimens. The tool will depend upon the size of the plant, but most will succumb to pruners. Only the largest will require a saw. As with all pruning, make sure the tool used is sharp and clean to avoid injuring the plant and decrease the chance of disease. Remove limbs at the branch point but be careful not to cut into the main stem. Pads or leaves may just snap off or you can use pruners to remove them. For a big job like cutting back a columnar specimen, use a saw and remove the main trunk at the point at which you would like to see branching or at the height you require the plant. Try to remove the stem at a growth point. Plants like agave will need the old leaves removed to preserve the appearance. Cut them away at the base of the plant with shears.
What to Do With Pruned Off Parts
Now for the fun part. Almost all the material you remove is salvageable except for diseased or dead stems and leaves. Pads will root if laid on top of soil and develop into a new plant of the same species. Cut stems and trunks should be allowed to callus at the end for several days and then can be planted to create new cactus. Any offsets or pups that you cut away from the base of a specimen are new plants in their own right and should be potted up immediately. Dead flower stalks and leaves are compost, but some varieties of cactus produce leaves on the flower stem which can be treated the same way as the pads of other species. Most cactus parts will start rooting within a month. Once you restore your initial cactus to its glory, you will have the pleasure of making more of the spectacular plant and can increase your collection or give them away to family and friends.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Gardeners seeking a palm tree specimen to accent the garden or home will want to know how to grow the pygmy date palm tree. Pygmy palm growing is relatively simple given suitable conditions, though pruning pygmy palm trees is sometimes necessary to keep its growth manageable, especially in smaller settings.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月18日
my Jade is doing so much better after a good pruning and some much needed care
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Deadheading or pinching back spent blossoms is a simple and effective pruning technique. By deadheading, you encourage both perennial and annual flowers to put forth continued blossoms throughout the growing season, as they are not expending energy on producing seed. Foxglove plants, growing energetically to fill in shady garden areas, blooms with tall spires of pink and yellow flowers in the first part of the summer. Foxglove may respond to deadheading by blooming again later in the season.
Step 1
Watch the foxglove blossoms as they begin to die back in early to mid summer.
Step 2
Clip off the spent blossoms with the pruning shears or pinch them off with your thumb and forefinger. Remove the blossoms at the point of the first set of leaves on the stems.
Step 3
Discard the blossoms into the bucket as you remove them. Throw away the blossoms in the bucket in a compost pile or in the trash. Never leave clipped blossoms on the soil beneath plants because this can lead to fungal infections.
Step 4
Watch for a second bloom. Because you clipped the blossoms off at the leaf intersection, new stem growth may occur with new blossoms.
Step 5
Allow the second bloom to wither and go to seed on the plants, if you wish to propagate volunteer plants for the next growing season.
Step 1
Watch the foxglove blossoms as they begin to die back in early to mid summer.
Step 2
Clip off the spent blossoms with the pruning shears or pinch them off with your thumb and forefinger. Remove the blossoms at the point of the first set of leaves on the stems.
Step 3
Discard the blossoms into the bucket as you remove them. Throw away the blossoms in the bucket in a compost pile or in the trash. Never leave clipped blossoms on the soil beneath plants because this can lead to fungal infections.
Step 4
Watch for a second bloom. Because you clipped the blossoms off at the leaf intersection, new stem growth may occur with new blossoms.
Step 5
Allow the second bloom to wither and go to seed on the plants, if you wish to propagate volunteer plants for the next growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knockout roses are a group of hybrid shrub roses bred for wide climate tolerance and significant resistance to disease and insect pests. Unlike traditional rose pruning, Knockout rose shrubs perform better when sheared down each year in the spring. They are also self-cleaning so they do not require dead heading, which adds to their low maintenance.
Annual Pruning
Pruning Knockout roses should be done once a year in the early spring or after the last hard frost has passed in your region. Even significant or harsh pruning in the early spring will not inhibit bloom in the current year. Knockout shrubs will easily rebound from their spring pruning with prolific bloom in the late spring, summer and fall until the first hard frost occurs.
Pruning Technique
Annual pruning of Knockout roses is most easily done with a clean and sharp pair of long-blade scissor shears or loppers. Unlike traditional rose pruning that requires cane by cane cuts, Knockout roses neither require nor perform well with this style of pruning. Lopping off up to one-third of the rose shrub volume and bringing the height down to between one and two feet over the crown of the plant is ideal. Make a flat-top cut with the tool blades held parallel to the shrub top. Clearing up all of the clippings and debris from the soil surface will help to keep disease and pests from establishing themselves and leave a clean surface for fertilizer and mulch applications.
Annual Pruning
Pruning Knockout roses should be done once a year in the early spring or after the last hard frost has passed in your region. Even significant or harsh pruning in the early spring will not inhibit bloom in the current year. Knockout shrubs will easily rebound from their spring pruning with prolific bloom in the late spring, summer and fall until the first hard frost occurs.
Pruning Technique
Annual pruning of Knockout roses is most easily done with a clean and sharp pair of long-blade scissor shears or loppers. Unlike traditional rose pruning that requires cane by cane cuts, Knockout roses neither require nor perform well with this style of pruning. Lopping off up to one-third of the rose shrub volume and bringing the height down to between one and two feet over the crown of the plant is ideal. Make a flat-top cut with the tool blades held parallel to the shrub top. Clearing up all of the clippings and debris from the soil surface will help to keep disease and pests from establishing themselves and leave a clean surface for fertilizer and mulch applications.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Many insects eat holes in the leaves of rose bushes. The damage can range from ragged leaves to complete defoliation. The damage, while not pretty, is generally not enough to cause the rose bush to die. Remove the affected leaves by pruning the rose bush. Watch for pests as you work. Rose growers who do not grow organically may find that using a rose fertilizer with systemic insecticide solves rose pest problems.
Leaf-Cutter Bees
Hollow rose bush stems attract leaf-cutter bees, according to Texas A & M University. The leaf-cutter bees use the plant material removed from the rose leaves to create walls in the nesting cells where the young bees develop. These bees are important pollinators, according to Clemson University. It is best to simply remove the affected leaves if the holes bother you.
Rose Slug
Large holes in the leaves of rose bushes will not appear until the rose slug larvae mature, according to the University of California. Young larvae, however, will skeletonize the lower surface of the leaf. Although the larvae may look like a caterpillar, they are not. Remove them immediately by handpicking. Spraying the rose bush with a hard stream of water from a hose can dislodge them from the underside of the leaf. The best time to look for them, according to Clemson University, is at night. Soil drenches, insecticidal soap and horticultural oil are additional options for control of rose slugs.
Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles are one of the worst of the rose pests because they eat both the leaves and the roses. Although it is more common to see leaves skeletonized once the beetles are on them, there are instances where the leaves simply have holes in them. Numerous control options are used for these pests, according to Clemson University. Milky spore will destroy grubs in your lawn but will not do anything for controlling beetles that fly in from other yards. Japanese beetle traps, according to Clemson University, simply attract beetles, so unless you can position it 50 feet from the plants you wish to protect, it is useless. The most effective method is to handpick the beetles during the early evening hours. Brush the beetles into a jar filled with hot soapy water, and put a lid on it. Shake the jar to submerge the beetles. Other natural control methods include poultry, which love to eat these pests, and using netting to keep the beetles off your flowers. Several chemical insecticides, according to Clemson University, work as well.
Leaf-Cutter Bees
Hollow rose bush stems attract leaf-cutter bees, according to Texas A & M University. The leaf-cutter bees use the plant material removed from the rose leaves to create walls in the nesting cells where the young bees develop. These bees are important pollinators, according to Clemson University. It is best to simply remove the affected leaves if the holes bother you.
Rose Slug
Large holes in the leaves of rose bushes will not appear until the rose slug larvae mature, according to the University of California. Young larvae, however, will skeletonize the lower surface of the leaf. Although the larvae may look like a caterpillar, they are not. Remove them immediately by handpicking. Spraying the rose bush with a hard stream of water from a hose can dislodge them from the underside of the leaf. The best time to look for them, according to Clemson University, is at night. Soil drenches, insecticidal soap and horticultural oil are additional options for control of rose slugs.
Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles are one of the worst of the rose pests because they eat both the leaves and the roses. Although it is more common to see leaves skeletonized once the beetles are on them, there are instances where the leaves simply have holes in them. Numerous control options are used for these pests, according to Clemson University. Milky spore will destroy grubs in your lawn but will not do anything for controlling beetles that fly in from other yards. Japanese beetle traps, according to Clemson University, simply attract beetles, so unless you can position it 50 feet from the plants you wish to protect, it is useless. The most effective method is to handpick the beetles during the early evening hours. Brush the beetles into a jar filled with hot soapy water, and put a lid on it. Shake the jar to submerge the beetles. Other natural control methods include poultry, which love to eat these pests, and using netting to keep the beetles off your flowers. Several chemical insecticides, according to Clemson University, work as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Coffee plants produce not only the all important coffee bean, but they make terrific houseplants too. In their native tropical habitat, coffee plants grow up to 15 feet or more, so pruning a coffee plant is integral when growing them indoors.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Chinese evergreen plants (Aglaonemas spp.) are leafy plants popular in homes and offices. They thrive in low light and a mild, protected environment. They are compact plants and grow big leaves that are a mix of green and cream color. Pruning Chinese evergreen plant foliage is hardly ever required. However, there are times that trimming Chinese evergreens is appropriate. Keep reading for more information on when and how to cut back a Chinese evergreen.
Chinese Evergreen Pruning
Many houseplants require regular or even constant pruning and pinching to keep them looking good. One of the advantages of Chinese evergreen is that they are very low maintenance. As long as you keep these plants in low light areas with temperatures of 65 to 75 F. (18-23 C.), they will likely thrive.
Because of the dense leafing of the plant, trimming Chinese evergreens is not a must. In fact, since new growth appears from the plant crown, pruning Chinese evergreen plant leaves can kill the entire plant. You may be tempted to pick up the pruners if the plant, as it matures, begins to look leggy. Experts suggest that you resist. Instead, consider planting pothos or another species of low-light plant, to fill in the bare spots.
How to Cut Back a Chinese Evergreen
Occasions for pruning Chinese evergreen plant are few and far between, but they do arise. Prune off any dead leaves in order to keep the houseplant looking its best. Trim them off as low as you can by reaching deep into the center of the plant. Another occasion for trimming Chinese evergreens comes in the spring, if the plant produces flowers. Blooms generally appear in the spring – watch for a spathe and spadix in the middle of the leaves.
You are probably helping the plant by removing these flowers since it lets the Chinese evergreen use that energy for foliage growth. Since the flowers are not extremely attractive, you will not suffer from their loss. If you feel badly pruning Chinese evergreen plant flowers off the plant, do it anyway. Remember that removing the blossoms is good for the longevity of the plant.
Chinese Evergreen Pruning
Many houseplants require regular or even constant pruning and pinching to keep them looking good. One of the advantages of Chinese evergreen is that they are very low maintenance. As long as you keep these plants in low light areas with temperatures of 65 to 75 F. (18-23 C.), they will likely thrive.
Because of the dense leafing of the plant, trimming Chinese evergreens is not a must. In fact, since new growth appears from the plant crown, pruning Chinese evergreen plant leaves can kill the entire plant. You may be tempted to pick up the pruners if the plant, as it matures, begins to look leggy. Experts suggest that you resist. Instead, consider planting pothos or another species of low-light plant, to fill in the bare spots.
How to Cut Back a Chinese Evergreen
Occasions for pruning Chinese evergreen plant are few and far between, but they do arise. Prune off any dead leaves in order to keep the houseplant looking its best. Trim them off as low as you can by reaching deep into the center of the plant. Another occasion for trimming Chinese evergreens comes in the spring, if the plant produces flowers. Blooms generally appear in the spring – watch for a spathe and spadix in the middle of the leaves.
You are probably helping the plant by removing these flowers since it lets the Chinese evergreen use that energy for foliage growth. Since the flowers are not extremely attractive, you will not suffer from their loss. If you feel badly pruning Chinese evergreen plant flowers off the plant, do it anyway. Remember that removing the blossoms is good for the longevity of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses (Rosa spp.) must be pruned regularly to be at their best. Some only need a light pruning, but others need to be cut back significantly once a year along with occasional tidying up throughout the year. The best time to cut them back in Texas and how hard they need to be cut back depends, to a certain extent, on the rose -- but the greater determining factor is where the roses are in Texas.
Roses for Texas
Roses are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 11, depending on the species and cultivar.
'Fragrant Cloud' (Rosa 'Tanellis' or Rosa 'Fragrant Cloud') is a hybrid tea rose that has good resistance to rust and powdery mildew. It blooms repeatedly in spring and summer, producing 5-inch diameter orange-red flowers. 'Queen Elizabeth' (Rosa 'Queen Elizabeth') is a grandiflora rose that blooms from spring to first frost, producing pink, 2- to 4-inch wide flowers. Both of these roses do well in Texas and are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9.
'Flower Carpet® Scarlet' (Rosa 'Flower Carpet® Scarlet,' USDA zones 4 to 11) is a groundcover-type rose that blooms in red from spring through fall. This rose is tolerant of high humidity and heat and has good disease resistance.
When to Prune
The best time to prune most roses is one month before the last expected hard frost in the spring. In Amarillo the last hard frost is usually around April 18. In Dallas it commonly occurs around March 3. Houston's last frost is usually February 8, while San Antonio gets the last frost around February 28. When roses are pruned earlier, they grow new stems and leaves at their bases and a cold snap is likely to cause serious damage or even kill the bush.
Climbers are the only roses that should be pruned right after they finish blooming.
Tidy up all types of roses at any time throughout the year by removing spent blossoms and dead and diseased stems as soon as they are noticed.
Pruning in Hot Climates
Roses should be cut back more drastically in USDA zones 8 to 10 in central and south Texas because the growing season is much longer there.
Large roses like hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras can be cut down to a height of 1 to 2 feet. This drastic pruning will result in larger flowers. If height is not a problem and such drastic pruning is not desired, they should be cut back by one-third their height.
Smaller roses like shrub roses, which includes 'Knock Out®' roses (Rosa 'Knock Out®,' USDA zones 5b to 9), should be cut back to 2 feet shorter than their desired height, but not by more than half their height.
Groundcover roses like 'Flower Carpet® Scarlet' can be cut back by about one-third their height.
If the roses did not shed their leaves in the winter, strip them all off. This makes way for new, fresh foliage for the coming year.
Pruning in Cooler Climates
Roses in the colder USDA zones 6 and 7 of north Texas will not need to have as much stem removed.
Larger roses can be cut down to a height of 1 to 2 feet, or one-third their height, whichever is preferred. They usually produce larger flowers when they are cut back to 1 to 2 feet tall.
Shrub roses and groundcover roses are cut back in cooler zones just like they are in the warmer climates of central and south Texas.
The leaves usually do not need to be removed in these colder areas. They are generally long gone by pruning time.
Pruning Basics
Always use sharp bypass pruners and make pruning cuts about ¼ inch above a growth bud. Disinfect the pruners with household disinfectant, rinse them and dry them off before using them. Also, when pruning diseased branches, the pruners should be disinfected between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Wear heavy gardening gloves with reinforced palms and long sleeves for protection against thorns. Seal stems larger than a pencil with white household glue. Clean up all of the leaves, pieces of stem and other debris and put them in the trash. When left around the base of the roses, they will provide a growing environment for bacterial and fungal diseases.
Roses for Texas
Roses are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 11, depending on the species and cultivar.
'Fragrant Cloud' (Rosa 'Tanellis' or Rosa 'Fragrant Cloud') is a hybrid tea rose that has good resistance to rust and powdery mildew. It blooms repeatedly in spring and summer, producing 5-inch diameter orange-red flowers. 'Queen Elizabeth' (Rosa 'Queen Elizabeth') is a grandiflora rose that blooms from spring to first frost, producing pink, 2- to 4-inch wide flowers. Both of these roses do well in Texas and are hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9.
'Flower Carpet® Scarlet' (Rosa 'Flower Carpet® Scarlet,' USDA zones 4 to 11) is a groundcover-type rose that blooms in red from spring through fall. This rose is tolerant of high humidity and heat and has good disease resistance.
When to Prune
The best time to prune most roses is one month before the last expected hard frost in the spring. In Amarillo the last hard frost is usually around April 18. In Dallas it commonly occurs around March 3. Houston's last frost is usually February 8, while San Antonio gets the last frost around February 28. When roses are pruned earlier, they grow new stems and leaves at their bases and a cold snap is likely to cause serious damage or even kill the bush.
Climbers are the only roses that should be pruned right after they finish blooming.
Tidy up all types of roses at any time throughout the year by removing spent blossoms and dead and diseased stems as soon as they are noticed.
Pruning in Hot Climates
Roses should be cut back more drastically in USDA zones 8 to 10 in central and south Texas because the growing season is much longer there.
Large roses like hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras can be cut down to a height of 1 to 2 feet. This drastic pruning will result in larger flowers. If height is not a problem and such drastic pruning is not desired, they should be cut back by one-third their height.
Smaller roses like shrub roses, which includes 'Knock Out®' roses (Rosa 'Knock Out®,' USDA zones 5b to 9), should be cut back to 2 feet shorter than their desired height, but not by more than half their height.
Groundcover roses like 'Flower Carpet® Scarlet' can be cut back by about one-third their height.
If the roses did not shed their leaves in the winter, strip them all off. This makes way for new, fresh foliage for the coming year.
Pruning in Cooler Climates
Roses in the colder USDA zones 6 and 7 of north Texas will not need to have as much stem removed.
Larger roses can be cut down to a height of 1 to 2 feet, or one-third their height, whichever is preferred. They usually produce larger flowers when they are cut back to 1 to 2 feet tall.
Shrub roses and groundcover roses are cut back in cooler zones just like they are in the warmer climates of central and south Texas.
The leaves usually do not need to be removed in these colder areas. They are generally long gone by pruning time.
Pruning Basics
Always use sharp bypass pruners and make pruning cuts about ¼ inch above a growth bud. Disinfect the pruners with household disinfectant, rinse them and dry them off before using them. Also, when pruning diseased branches, the pruners should be disinfected between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Wear heavy gardening gloves with reinforced palms and long sleeves for protection against thorns. Seal stems larger than a pencil with white household glue. Clean up all of the leaves, pieces of stem and other debris and put them in the trash. When left around the base of the roses, they will provide a growing environment for bacterial and fungal diseases.
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