文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Leaf cuttings are easier than they look, and it is very satisfying to see the young plants growing from the old leaf.
There are a number of succulents that can be propagated easily this way: Gasteria, Haworthia, Sansevieria and plants of the Crassulaceae family (Crassula, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum).
The easy way is just to get a leaf. Let the cut dry out in the shade for a day to a week, and just place them on top of the soil. Do not bury or semi-bury into the soil. The roots will find their way into the soil on their own. The soil should be well drained. If you need to improvise good growing soil, mix half well-rotted compost with half fine pumice or grit. You can expect to see a change in the leaf after 3-4 weeks and the young plants will take a season to develop into new plants.
The leaves need water at some point but only a light sprinkling. While “grown-up” succulents only need to be watered every week, or even once a month (depending on the season/heat), the leaves need to be watered constantly without being watered too much. Only water the soil after it is dry.
The temperature is an important factor. Succulents of the Crassulaceae family will root better in the fall, and in late winter/early spring. They will generally not root in the summer, but rather slowly dry out, or rot. The rule of thumb is that the leaf cuttings has chances to grow only if the parent plant is actively growing.
There are a number of succulents that can be propagated easily this way: Gasteria, Haworthia, Sansevieria and plants of the Crassulaceae family (Crassula, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum).
The easy way is just to get a leaf. Let the cut dry out in the shade for a day to a week, and just place them on top of the soil. Do not bury or semi-bury into the soil. The roots will find their way into the soil on their own. The soil should be well drained. If you need to improvise good growing soil, mix half well-rotted compost with half fine pumice or grit. You can expect to see a change in the leaf after 3-4 weeks and the young plants will take a season to develop into new plants.
The leaves need water at some point but only a light sprinkling. While “grown-up” succulents only need to be watered every week, or even once a month (depending on the season/heat), the leaves need to be watered constantly without being watered too much. Only water the soil after it is dry.
The temperature is an important factor. Succulents of the Crassulaceae family will root better in the fall, and in late winter/early spring. They will generally not root in the summer, but rather slowly dry out, or rot. The rule of thumb is that the leaf cuttings has chances to grow only if the parent plant is actively growing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents are plants that survive long periods of drought by storing water in leaves, stems or roots. Their stems or roots become thick and fleshy when retaining water. Most succulents prefer dry conditions and grow well in containers. Succulents come in a variety of shapes and colors and propagate easily through leaf cuttings. Container-grown succulents require little maintenance while adding color and texture to a deck, porch or room.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
One of the amazing things about succulents is how easy they are to grow. From one plant you can easily get multiple plants, making them an investment worth indulging in! Regrowing you own succulents can be quick and easy, and you don’t even need the greenest of thumbs. Take a look below at how to regrow succulents in a few easy steps, so you can enjoy multiple pots of these gorgeous plants.
How to Cut
First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant
Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care
You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
How to Cut
First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant
Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care
You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Growing a collection of succulents for your indoor garden starts with one you already own.
1. Cut the Heads
Any healthy succulent is a candidate for propagation, especially those that have central, trunk-like stems. If propagating from a rosette-style succulent, you can begin at step 2. Otherwise, use a sharp pair of scissors to snip a leaf-covered section of one of the stems that’s at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. This is your cutting. If your plant’s stems are looking bare and you can’t find 3 inches (7.5 cm) of lush growth to work with, instead cut at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) under the best-looking bunch of leaves.
2. Pluck Leaves
Succulents will propagate from individual leaves, too. You can either pluck leaves from your clippings or from the parent plant. Hold the fleshy leaf close to the stem. Twist gently to remove cleanly. Any fat, juicy leaves will fall off with ease. Others you may have to coax off. What’s left on the leaf’s stem is called meristematic tissue, and it looks like a potato eye. This is where small new roots and leaves will start to emerge a few weeks after beginning step 3.
3. Arrange and Water
Place your clippings and leaves, cut ends up, on a dish filled with fast-draining soil and facing indirect sunlight. Leave for about three days or until the ends callus over. Once that happens, use a spray bottle to squirt everything five to six times until the soil is moist but not soaked. Repeat whenever the soil is dry, roughly every four to five days. In about three to four weeks, tiny pink roots will start to sprout from your clippings. Be patient, observe, and keep watering.
4. Tend To The Pups
Six or seven weeks after starting the propagating process, you’ll notice baby pups (i.e. tiny leaves, i.e. the cutest things you’ve ever seen) emerging from the parent leaves. The parents may look shriveled—this is because they are feeding the pups with their own water and nutrients. It’s now time to transfer your cuttings and leaves to containers of their own, at least 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Cover the new roots with 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) of soil, sit back, and watch your garden grow.
1. Cut the Heads
Any healthy succulent is a candidate for propagation, especially those that have central, trunk-like stems. If propagating from a rosette-style succulent, you can begin at step 2. Otherwise, use a sharp pair of scissors to snip a leaf-covered section of one of the stems that’s at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) long. This is your cutting. If your plant’s stems are looking bare and you can’t find 3 inches (7.5 cm) of lush growth to work with, instead cut at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) under the best-looking bunch of leaves.
2. Pluck Leaves
Succulents will propagate from individual leaves, too. You can either pluck leaves from your clippings or from the parent plant. Hold the fleshy leaf close to the stem. Twist gently to remove cleanly. Any fat, juicy leaves will fall off with ease. Others you may have to coax off. What’s left on the leaf’s stem is called meristematic tissue, and it looks like a potato eye. This is where small new roots and leaves will start to emerge a few weeks after beginning step 3.
3. Arrange and Water
Place your clippings and leaves, cut ends up, on a dish filled with fast-draining soil and facing indirect sunlight. Leave for about three days or until the ends callus over. Once that happens, use a spray bottle to squirt everything five to six times until the soil is moist but not soaked. Repeat whenever the soil is dry, roughly every four to five days. In about three to four weeks, tiny pink roots will start to sprout from your clippings. Be patient, observe, and keep watering.
4. Tend To The Pups
Six or seven weeks after starting the propagating process, you’ll notice baby pups (i.e. tiny leaves, i.e. the cutest things you’ve ever seen) emerging from the parent leaves. The parents may look shriveled—this is because they are feeding the pups with their own water and nutrients. It’s now time to transfer your cuttings and leaves to containers of their own, at least 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Cover the new roots with 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) of soil, sit back, and watch your garden grow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. They sense the shorter days of winter and provide your garden with clustered red, yellow, orange, pink, purple, white and variant of these blooms in both winter and spring. Although these succulents can be propagated by seed in both indoor containers and outdoor gardens, growing new Kalanchoe plants from leaves is much simpler and less time-consuming. The ability of a new Kalanchoe to grow from a leaf allows the plant to reproduce successfully without developing energy-consuming seed pods, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
About a month ago I bought and planted some succulents. I love the different shapes they come in and I was determined to keep them alive. I researched how to transplant succulents for a long time before I took them out of their pots. I can safely say they are still green and healthy!
I rounded up the tips that I learned in one place for anyone else to learn from, but also so I don’t forget them next time I get some desert plants.
Buy Few, Plant Many
I was standing in the nursery with 7-10 different kinds of succulents scattered around my feet. That’s when my husband put the kabosh on my plan to GET THEM ALL and said I should choose four. Although that was the hardest decision to make, I was once again reminded that I am married to a wise man.
Four pots of succulents from the nursery quadrupled as soon as I started planting them! I wanted to give them enough space so each plant got its own pot and before I knew it, I had waaayy too many succulents on my hands.
Choose Green
During my research I found out that the different colors of cacti aren’t just pretty to look at. They have a purpose! If you are going to be keeping your plants indoors make sure you only buy green cacti. The beautiful purple, orange and yellow colors will die if they don’t get enough heat and sun. Since I like to live with my air conditioner on during the summer only green succulents would survive.
Replant Buds
The rose shaped succulents often come with tiny buds growing at their base. These sweet little babies are easy to pull off and will survive if you stick their orange stems into some dirt. Guess what? Free succulents! I have actually seen tutorials where you can do this with almost dead leaves from succulents, but I haven’t tried it yet. With any luck I won’t ever have to buy succulents again. I will just start my own miniature farm in my windowsill.
Break Up Roots
Some of the succulents that I pulled out of their pots from the store had thick roots that were dying to break free of their walls. Although this isn’t just a tip for succulents, any time you are transplanting something be sure to break the roots out of their shape and spread them out a little before introducing them to their new pot. This helps them grow into the bigger pot.
Mix Dirt and Sand
I didn’t read this tip until after my planting job was over but I am going to go back and mix in 1/3 sand to my Miracle Gro soil. Succulents are desert plants and the sand mixture helps with drainage to prevent rotting.
Don’t Water
You read that right. As soon as your new plants are potted you are going to be tempted to fill up a watering can and finish the job. Instead, wait a week before their first watering in their new pots. This will give them some time to adjust to the new soil, apparently. Then water them about twice a month. Mine are durable, so even if I forget a month or two they happily bounce back when I remember.
Indirect Sunlight
Your green succulents will be happy in your home as long as they get enough sun. Don’t keep them in the closet. Put them on a windowsill or a table where they can drink in lots of natural light even when the sun isn’t directly over their pots.
I rounded up the tips that I learned in one place for anyone else to learn from, but also so I don’t forget them next time I get some desert plants.
Buy Few, Plant Many
I was standing in the nursery with 7-10 different kinds of succulents scattered around my feet. That’s when my husband put the kabosh on my plan to GET THEM ALL and said I should choose four. Although that was the hardest decision to make, I was once again reminded that I am married to a wise man.
Four pots of succulents from the nursery quadrupled as soon as I started planting them! I wanted to give them enough space so each plant got its own pot and before I knew it, I had waaayy too many succulents on my hands.
Choose Green
During my research I found out that the different colors of cacti aren’t just pretty to look at. They have a purpose! If you are going to be keeping your plants indoors make sure you only buy green cacti. The beautiful purple, orange and yellow colors will die if they don’t get enough heat and sun. Since I like to live with my air conditioner on during the summer only green succulents would survive.
Replant Buds
The rose shaped succulents often come with tiny buds growing at their base. These sweet little babies are easy to pull off and will survive if you stick their orange stems into some dirt. Guess what? Free succulents! I have actually seen tutorials where you can do this with almost dead leaves from succulents, but I haven’t tried it yet. With any luck I won’t ever have to buy succulents again. I will just start my own miniature farm in my windowsill.
Break Up Roots
Some of the succulents that I pulled out of their pots from the store had thick roots that were dying to break free of their walls. Although this isn’t just a tip for succulents, any time you are transplanting something be sure to break the roots out of their shape and spread them out a little before introducing them to their new pot. This helps them grow into the bigger pot.
Mix Dirt and Sand
I didn’t read this tip until after my planting job was over but I am going to go back and mix in 1/3 sand to my Miracle Gro soil. Succulents are desert plants and the sand mixture helps with drainage to prevent rotting.
Don’t Water
You read that right. As soon as your new plants are potted you are going to be tempted to fill up a watering can and finish the job. Instead, wait a week before their first watering in their new pots. This will give them some time to adjust to the new soil, apparently. Then water them about twice a month. Mine are durable, so even if I forget a month or two they happily bounce back when I remember.
Indirect Sunlight
Your green succulents will be happy in your home as long as they get enough sun. Don’t keep them in the closet. Put them on a windowsill or a table where they can drink in lots of natural light even when the sun isn’t directly over their pots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Although many cacti and succulents actually like a tight pot, there will come a time when you need to repot, or maybe you just want to take it out of it’s placates pot and put it in something nicer. But how do you know when a succulent or cacti needs repotting? 
Here are a few signs:
If you can see that the roots are tightly packed or sticking out of the drainage holes
If when watered the water just sits at the top of the soil and doesn’t soak through
When the plant looks like it’s too big for the pot
Or if the soil has become poor quality, such as it dries out quickly or has come away from the sides of the pot.
A general rule of thumb is to repot every two years, at least as a way to provide fresh fertile soil. The best time to repot is at the beginning of a succulent’s growing season for the highest chance of survival. Early spring is the optimal period for most cases but take note, some do start growing in autumn or winter.
How to:
1. Remove the plant from its original pot. You’ll see that the root system is really packed and has probably been choking in that pot!
2. Open up the compacted soil and try to gently spread out the roots. Clear away the old soil but be careful not to pull too hard or break them. It’s helpful to use a stick like a chopstick or stick to remove the old soil. Also look out for dead roots, which should be pruned off. You’ll want to choose a pot that’s bigger than the current one, but not too big.
3. Place a few rocks at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Fill the pot about ½ full with potting mixture, put the plant on the mixture and add more of the potting mixture. You want to press the soil gently down so as to make it compact again. Do not water the succulents immediately after repotting. Wait a week to give them some time to adjust to the new soil.
Here are a few signs:
If you can see that the roots are tightly packed or sticking out of the drainage holes
If when watered the water just sits at the top of the soil and doesn’t soak through
When the plant looks like it’s too big for the pot
Or if the soil has become poor quality, such as it dries out quickly or has come away from the sides of the pot.
A general rule of thumb is to repot every two years, at least as a way to provide fresh fertile soil. The best time to repot is at the beginning of a succulent’s growing season for the highest chance of survival. Early spring is the optimal period for most cases but take note, some do start growing in autumn or winter.
How to:
1. Remove the plant from its original pot. You’ll see that the root system is really packed and has probably been choking in that pot!
2. Open up the compacted soil and try to gently spread out the roots. Clear away the old soil but be careful not to pull too hard or break them. It’s helpful to use a stick like a chopstick or stick to remove the old soil. Also look out for dead roots, which should be pruned off. You’ll want to choose a pot that’s bigger than the current one, but not too big.
3. Place a few rocks at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Fill the pot about ½ full with potting mixture, put the plant on the mixture and add more of the potting mixture. You want to press the soil gently down so as to make it compact again. Do not water the succulents immediately after repotting. Wait a week to give them some time to adjust to the new soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents feature plump, fleshy leaves and stems that retain moisture, similar to a cactus. Many succulent varieties also produce attractive flowers in season that can brighten up a small dish garden. Most succulent plants thrive in pots, because they require minimal watering or maintenance and they also grow slowly so rarely require repotting.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
However, if the arrangement begins to outgrow its pot you can transfer the plants to a larger container at any time of year. Taking the time to repot properly ensures the continued health of the plant and allows you to retain the aesthetics of the original arrangement.
Fill the new pot with a soil mixture formulated for cactus plants or create your own mix by combining equal parts potting soil and coarse sand or perlite. Use a shallow pot, 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the width of the entire succulent arrangement, with at least one bottom drainage hole.
Water the potting mixture until it’s barely moist and the excess just begins to drip from the drainage hole.
Scoop the succulents out of the old pot using the tip of a trowel or a large spoon. Lift the entire root system, taking care not to cut or break the smaller roots.
Arrange the succulents as desired in the new pot, spacing the plants 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart in all directions. Make a small hole in the mix for each plant’s roots once you are satisfied with the arrangement and plant them at the same depth at which they were previously growing.
Wait one week before watering the newly repotted succulents, so the roots can adjust to the new soil. Sprinkle the soil surface lightly with water to moisten, but avoid deep watering that causes wet soil, because it can result in root rot.
Tip
Succulents only require water when the soil has dried out almost completely. The plants rarely require fertilizing, although they can benefit from a light annual fertilization in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
You may have seem some brilliant book planters for succulents and marveled at how such a simple project can yield such beautiful results. It’s a fun, easy project that anyone can do with just a few simple tools and some supplies from a local hardware store or garden center.
If you have some old hardcover books lying around that are just aching to be filled with flora, here is a step by step lesson on how to create book planters yourself.
Supplies
– 1 Vintage book.
– 2-3 small succulents. Any more than that will get really heavy. Home Depot sells them for like $2 each. Be wary of “top-heavy” succulents as they are hard to keep leverage in such a relatively shallow pot. Even little miniature cactuses are nearly impossible to keep erect. “Wide and flatter” work MUCH better than “tall.”
– Little bit of potting soil
– 1 exacto knife
– Parchment paper or plastic bag
– White glue
– Dry moss or ground cover
Instructions
1. The night before, rub a very thin layer of white glue against the loose paper binding, just enough to make some of the pages stick. It doesn’t need to be precise. It just helps when starting to cut into the book that the pages stay in one place.
2. Cutting the square in the book is the most time-consuming part. Decide how big a square you want to have for planting. I find that the smaller patches tend to look better. I like to leave some of the text of the book visible. Using your metal ruler you will measure out your square and cut through a few pages at a time, pull them out (you will need to break the glued seal you made to get them out), and then do a few more pages, pull them out, and work your way down the book. You will need a hole that is at least 1 1/2 inches deep.
The hole does not need to be clean or pretty because the only page that will be visible is the top page, so don’t worry if it tears badly, or seems jagged. You wont be able to see any of it and its going to be filled with dirt. I also recommend you start with the page under the Title Page and save the Title Page for last. By the time the rest of the hole is made, you will have a better sense of how to make the cutout for the Title Page the most centered and clean. Remember this is the only page where the look of the cut out matters.
3. Line the hole with parchment paper or plastic. This just prevents any watering from damaging the rest of the book.
4. If your book is very, very deep, you can put a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole. This will provide some drainage that your succulents would appreciate. Succulents don’t need much water but they do prefer to not have their roots sitting in water so the gravel provides a place for the water to drain that the roots wont touch. In a regular sized booked you wont have room for gravel. Don’t worry: the succulents will still live even without the drainage.
5. Start with the main succulent and separate it from the soil its packed in. Place it in the hole where you like. Then repack the soil around it so it can stand on its own. For the larger plants, you will need to wedge them into the corners so they stand up until they start to grow on their own. You will need to pack the soil tightly around the roots to make them stand. A little water in the soil will also help.
6. Once you have the succulents where you want, cover the soil in dry moss. You can leave the soil exposed if you like, but I think it looks nicer with the moss because that will cover the hole in the book, and the moss will also help support the plants.
7. Cut the parchment paper just below the surface of the moss so that its adequately hidden. Seeing the parchment totally ruins the illusion. Blow off any dirt that you’ve gotten in the book. There will be dirt everywhere.
8. About once a week I spray a little bit of water into the roots with a squirt bottle. Like I said, succulents need very little water but they do need a lot of sunlight so if you are keeping them inside, make sure they are by a window or put them outside as much as possible. When you water them, try to avoid getting water on the Title Page.
If you have some old hardcover books lying around that are just aching to be filled with flora, here is a step by step lesson on how to create book planters yourself.
Supplies
– 1 Vintage book.
– 2-3 small succulents. Any more than that will get really heavy. Home Depot sells them for like $2 each. Be wary of “top-heavy” succulents as they are hard to keep leverage in such a relatively shallow pot. Even little miniature cactuses are nearly impossible to keep erect. “Wide and flatter” work MUCH better than “tall.”
– Little bit of potting soil
– 1 exacto knife
– Parchment paper or plastic bag
– White glue
– Dry moss or ground cover
Instructions
1. The night before, rub a very thin layer of white glue against the loose paper binding, just enough to make some of the pages stick. It doesn’t need to be precise. It just helps when starting to cut into the book that the pages stay in one place.
2. Cutting the square in the book is the most time-consuming part. Decide how big a square you want to have for planting. I find that the smaller patches tend to look better. I like to leave some of the text of the book visible. Using your metal ruler you will measure out your square and cut through a few pages at a time, pull them out (you will need to break the glued seal you made to get them out), and then do a few more pages, pull them out, and work your way down the book. You will need a hole that is at least 1 1/2 inches deep.
The hole does not need to be clean or pretty because the only page that will be visible is the top page, so don’t worry if it tears badly, or seems jagged. You wont be able to see any of it and its going to be filled with dirt. I also recommend you start with the page under the Title Page and save the Title Page for last. By the time the rest of the hole is made, you will have a better sense of how to make the cutout for the Title Page the most centered and clean. Remember this is the only page where the look of the cut out matters.
3. Line the hole with parchment paper or plastic. This just prevents any watering from damaging the rest of the book.
4. If your book is very, very deep, you can put a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole. This will provide some drainage that your succulents would appreciate. Succulents don’t need much water but they do prefer to not have their roots sitting in water so the gravel provides a place for the water to drain that the roots wont touch. In a regular sized booked you wont have room for gravel. Don’t worry: the succulents will still live even without the drainage.
5. Start with the main succulent and separate it from the soil its packed in. Place it in the hole where you like. Then repack the soil around it so it can stand on its own. For the larger plants, you will need to wedge them into the corners so they stand up until they start to grow on their own. You will need to pack the soil tightly around the roots to make them stand. A little water in the soil will also help.
6. Once you have the succulents where you want, cover the soil in dry moss. You can leave the soil exposed if you like, but I think it looks nicer with the moss because that will cover the hole in the book, and the moss will also help support the plants.
7. Cut the parchment paper just below the surface of the moss so that its adequately hidden. Seeing the parchment totally ruins the illusion. Blow off any dirt that you’ve gotten in the book. There will be dirt everywhere.
8. About once a week I spray a little bit of water into the roots with a squirt bottle. Like I said, succulents need very little water but they do need a lot of sunlight so if you are keeping them inside, make sure they are by a window or put them outside as much as possible. When you water them, try to avoid getting water on the Title Page.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow thick fleshy leaves and stems that store moisture and nutrients. This ability allows the plants to thrive in dry conditions. Potted succulents often require less watering and fertilizer than other houseplant varieties, but the irrigation they do require flushes nutrients out of the soil, so they need periodic feeding. Too much fertilizer, especially high-nitrogen blends, increase leaf and root rot problems. It’s vital to use the right blend and avoid overfeeding to keep the succulents healthy.
Dissolve a low-balanced soluble fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formula, in 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water, Use half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package for most succulents. For example, use ½ tablespoon 10-10-10 fertilizer if the label recommends using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Dilute to one-quarter strength for tropical succulents that require more frequent watering, such as a Christmas Cactus.
Water succulents with the half-strength solution until the excess moisture just begins to drain from the pot bottom. A gallon ((3.8 l)) of fertilizer solution may be enough to feed several plants, depending on size. Apply the fertilizer in spring as new growth begins and again in late summer or early fall. Do not fertilize when the succulents are semidormant in winter.
Irrigate tropical succulents weekly with the quarter-strength solution during the plant’s active growing season. Some tropical varieties actively grow in summer, while others are winter plants. Stop the fertilizer applications when plant growth naturally slows.
Apply fertilizers when the soil in the top inch of the pot has dried completely. Postpone a weekly application if the soil is still moist, so the soil can dry.
Tip
You can substitute the quarter-strength fertilizer for most succulents if the soil is drying rapidly in the pot and necessitating more frequent watering. Frequent irrigation flushes the nutrients from the pot before the plant can access them.
Outdoor succulents usually don’t require fertilizer because they can access the nutrient store in the soil. If they do need feeding, apply half the recommended amount of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring.
Dissolve a low-balanced soluble fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formula, in 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water, Use half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package for most succulents. For example, use ½ tablespoon 10-10-10 fertilizer if the label recommends using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Dilute to one-quarter strength for tropical succulents that require more frequent watering, such as a Christmas Cactus.
Water succulents with the half-strength solution until the excess moisture just begins to drain from the pot bottom. A gallon ((3.8 l)) of fertilizer solution may be enough to feed several plants, depending on size. Apply the fertilizer in spring as new growth begins and again in late summer or early fall. Do not fertilize when the succulents are semidormant in winter.
Irrigate tropical succulents weekly with the quarter-strength solution during the plant’s active growing season. Some tropical varieties actively grow in summer, while others are winter plants. Stop the fertilizer applications when plant growth naturally slows.
Apply fertilizers when the soil in the top inch of the pot has dried completely. Postpone a weekly application if the soil is still moist, so the soil can dry.
Tip
You can substitute the quarter-strength fertilizer for most succulents if the soil is drying rapidly in the pot and necessitating more frequent watering. Frequent irrigation flushes the nutrients from the pot before the plant can access them.
Outdoor succulents usually don’t require fertilizer because they can access the nutrient store in the soil. If they do need feeding, apply half the recommended amount of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti and succulents have a wonderful ability to store and conserve water. In the desert this really comes in handy. Damage from under-watering is easily correctable. Damage from over-watering happens rapidly and typically results in death of the plant. When in doubt, water conservatively! Remember deep watering infrequent is preferred over frequent shallow watering.
Symptoms of Under-watering
Cactus skin begins to wrinkle due to shrinkage of the water-storing tissue. The leaves on Agaves will bend downward due to a drop in water pressure inside the leaf. Remedy by soaking the ground about one foot down and outward. Cactus and succulent roots are shallow but widespread.
Symptoms of Over-watering
Yellowing, cracking, swelling and rotting are key signs of over-watering a cactus or succulent. Remedy by letting them dry out and then following the proper watering guidelines. Damage by over-watering happens very rapidly and is often irreversible.
Frequency of Watering
As a general rule, water cactus and succulents twice a month when the weather is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Please remember to take rain into consideration. During monsoon, the humidity is up and there is typically more rain. If so, reduce watering to once per month. During the winter, the ground does not dry out nearly as quickly as it does in the summer. Watering should be reduced to once a month or not at all depending on rainfall. It is always important to let the soil dry out between watering.
Cacti and Succulents in Pots
Potted cacti and succulents will need more water than if planted in the ground. Make sure all potted cacti and succulents are planted in pots with drainage holes and in sandy well draining soil. This will help prevent over-watering. They should be watered once to twice weekly during the months over 90 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Make sure soil is allowed to dry out between watering. During cooler months reduce watering accordingly. Remember, a good rule of thumb is to let the soil dry out between watering. In most cases you can correct damage due to under-watering. Over-watering typically kills the plant!
Symptoms of Under-watering
Cactus skin begins to wrinkle due to shrinkage of the water-storing tissue. The leaves on Agaves will bend downward due to a drop in water pressure inside the leaf. Remedy by soaking the ground about one foot down and outward. Cactus and succulent roots are shallow but widespread.
Symptoms of Over-watering
Yellowing, cracking, swelling and rotting are key signs of over-watering a cactus or succulent. Remedy by letting them dry out and then following the proper watering guidelines. Damage by over-watering happens very rapidly and is often irreversible.
Frequency of Watering
As a general rule, water cactus and succulents twice a month when the weather is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Please remember to take rain into consideration. During monsoon, the humidity is up and there is typically more rain. If so, reduce watering to once per month. During the winter, the ground does not dry out nearly as quickly as it does in the summer. Watering should be reduced to once a month or not at all depending on rainfall. It is always important to let the soil dry out between watering.
Cacti and Succulents in Pots
Potted cacti and succulents will need more water than if planted in the ground. Make sure all potted cacti and succulents are planted in pots with drainage holes and in sandy well draining soil. This will help prevent over-watering. They should be watered once to twice weekly during the months over 90 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius). Make sure soil is allowed to dry out between watering. During cooler months reduce watering accordingly. Remember, a good rule of thumb is to let the soil dry out between watering. In most cases you can correct damage due to under-watering. Over-watering typically kills the plant!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are hardy plants that add a striking appearance to any garden or home. Performing best in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 through 9, succulents are good plants for the novice and expert gardener alike, as they require little attention. Because succulents are desert plants, they should be watered sparingly. Succulents are typically not susceptible to insect or pest infestation, but overwatering can lead to root or stem rot, a preventable and easily fixable disease. Succulents with signs of root or stem rot should be treated immediately.
1. Check the plant for infected areas. These typically appear as dark brown to black spots or areas on the low part of the plant. Other signs of root or stem rot include puckered flesh with a dark tint around the infected area.
2. Stop watering a plant with rot. Remove the plant from its pot. Remove the soil mixture and clean out the pot thoroughly to ensure no remnants of the fungus are left.
3. Cut the infected black stem from the plant with a garden knife. Let the healthy portion of the plant dry naturally for several hours, keeping the succulent out of direct sunlight during this process. If other areas of the plant are showing minimal signs of rot, keep an eye on the plant. Succulents can recover from stem rot if properly watered and placed in a warm, dry location.
4. Using the cleaned out pot or a fresh one, combine equal parts soil, coarse sand and peat moss. Don’t reuse any of the materials used with the infected plant.
5. Pour roughly 2 inches (5 cm) of the mixture into the pot. Place the newly doctored succulent into the pot with the roots lying on top of the soil. Fill the pot with the soil mixture until it reaches the base of the stems. Firmly pat the soil around the plant.
6. Place the succulent in a brightly lit spot with warm temperatures. Succulents prefer dry climates, so don’t place the plant in a humid location.
7. Water the plant with just enough water to moisten the soil one week after repotting. After the soil has completely dried out, you can water more thoroughly.
Tip
Succulents grow best in well-drained soils that provide a high water-holding capacity. Planting succulents in a clay pot with a drainage hole ensures there is no sitting water and that the soil dries out between waterings. Succulents are dormant during the winter and should only be watered lightly at this time.
1. Check the plant for infected areas. These typically appear as dark brown to black spots or areas on the low part of the plant. Other signs of root or stem rot include puckered flesh with a dark tint around the infected area.
2. Stop watering a plant with rot. Remove the plant from its pot. Remove the soil mixture and clean out the pot thoroughly to ensure no remnants of the fungus are left.
3. Cut the infected black stem from the plant with a garden knife. Let the healthy portion of the plant dry naturally for several hours, keeping the succulent out of direct sunlight during this process. If other areas of the plant are showing minimal signs of rot, keep an eye on the plant. Succulents can recover from stem rot if properly watered and placed in a warm, dry location.
4. Using the cleaned out pot or a fresh one, combine equal parts soil, coarse sand and peat moss. Don’t reuse any of the materials used with the infected plant.
5. Pour roughly 2 inches (5 cm) of the mixture into the pot. Place the newly doctored succulent into the pot with the roots lying on top of the soil. Fill the pot with the soil mixture until it reaches the base of the stems. Firmly pat the soil around the plant.
6. Place the succulent in a brightly lit spot with warm temperatures. Succulents prefer dry climates, so don’t place the plant in a humid location.
7. Water the plant with just enough water to moisten the soil one week after repotting. After the soil has completely dried out, you can water more thoroughly.
Tip
Succulents grow best in well-drained soils that provide a high water-holding capacity. Planting succulents in a clay pot with a drainage hole ensures there is no sitting water and that the soil dries out between waterings. Succulents are dormant during the winter and should only be watered lightly at this time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are marvels of nature that store extra water in their leaves, stems, or roots. Because they have the reputation for growing in arid conditions, many people fail to realize that when we bring them into our home and garden environments, they do need to be watered regularly. We share what you need to know on how to water succulents and keep them thriving.
How to Water Succulents Indoors
Rather than giving your succulents sips of water here and there, give them a good soaking — to the point the water runs out the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Be sure to empty the water that runs into the saucer beneath the plant pot. Then let the soil dry out completely before watering again.
Sedums, Hens and Chicks, Jade Plants, Kalanchoe, Aloe vera, and Sansevieria are popular choices for indoor plants. Succulents also include cacti, which, generally, may need less water than other succulents.
Succulents like well-drained soil. A good quality potting soil mixed with either a material such as perlite will help ensure good drainage. In addition to quality potting media, make sure your containers have drainage holes, because too much moisture can result in rotten roots.
Succulents require more water in the early spring when the plant is growing. Water needs may lessen in the summer and even more so during the winter. When the light decreases during the winter months and most succulents are in a dormant period, their water requirements also decrease. During winter, water your succulents when the soil is dry. This could be as infrequently as once per month but will depend on your conditions.
The frequency of watering will also depend on the light and growing conditions in your area, as well as the size of the container. The larger the container, the more moisture it can hold. Small, shallow pots may need to be watered more frequently.
How to Water Succulents in Outdoor Containers
Summer is a good time to move potted succulents outdoors. Though they love sun, give them a chance to acclimate to outdoor conditions by placing them in a partially shaded area before moving to a sunnier location. Keep them out of intense sunlight from late morning to mid afternoon. Outdoor plants generally require more water than indoor plants. Again, your conditions will dictate how often succulents will need water. Start by checking on a weekly basis, paying attention to the condition of the potting media and whether it’s bone dry or moist.
Succulents, including cacti, which are grown in shallow containers, may need water every few days.
How to Water Succulents in the Ground
Succulents, particularly Sedums, grow quite well in the ground. They, too, may need to be watered weekly, depending on conditions. Established plants will have a stronger root system and tolerate dry conditions much better than new plants.
Whether you grow hardy or annual succulents, they need to be in well-drained soil. Standing water is a prescription for disaster. As with houseplants, soil conditions and water needs go hand-in-hand.
How to Water Succulents Indoors
Rather than giving your succulents sips of water here and there, give them a good soaking — to the point the water runs out the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Be sure to empty the water that runs into the saucer beneath the plant pot. Then let the soil dry out completely before watering again.
Sedums, Hens and Chicks, Jade Plants, Kalanchoe, Aloe vera, and Sansevieria are popular choices for indoor plants. Succulents also include cacti, which, generally, may need less water than other succulents.
Succulents like well-drained soil. A good quality potting soil mixed with either a material such as perlite will help ensure good drainage. In addition to quality potting media, make sure your containers have drainage holes, because too much moisture can result in rotten roots.
Succulents require more water in the early spring when the plant is growing. Water needs may lessen in the summer and even more so during the winter. When the light decreases during the winter months and most succulents are in a dormant period, their water requirements also decrease. During winter, water your succulents when the soil is dry. This could be as infrequently as once per month but will depend on your conditions.
The frequency of watering will also depend on the light and growing conditions in your area, as well as the size of the container. The larger the container, the more moisture it can hold. Small, shallow pots may need to be watered more frequently.
How to Water Succulents in Outdoor Containers
Summer is a good time to move potted succulents outdoors. Though they love sun, give them a chance to acclimate to outdoor conditions by placing them in a partially shaded area before moving to a sunnier location. Keep them out of intense sunlight from late morning to mid afternoon. Outdoor plants generally require more water than indoor plants. Again, your conditions will dictate how often succulents will need water. Start by checking on a weekly basis, paying attention to the condition of the potting media and whether it’s bone dry or moist.
Succulents, including cacti, which are grown in shallow containers, may need water every few days.
How to Water Succulents in the Ground
Succulents, particularly Sedums, grow quite well in the ground. They, too, may need to be watered weekly, depending on conditions. Established plants will have a stronger root system and tolerate dry conditions much better than new plants.
Whether you grow hardy or annual succulents, they need to be in well-drained soil. Standing water is a prescription for disaster. As with houseplants, soil conditions and water needs go hand-in-hand.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow the most during the spring and summer. Once fall rolls around the plants like to take a break. During their fall/winter dormant period, watering should be reduced.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot.
Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot.
Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
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