文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents require well-draining soil that allows air to circulate around the roots. Without these qualities, succulents are prone to rot, which often results in the death of the plant. Although commercial potting mixtures for succulents are readily available, making a potting mixture ensures the quality of the mixture and provides flexibility for experimentation. Depending on the size of the batch, combine ingredients in a large bowl, bucket, bushel basket or clean garbage can.
Soil
An effective potting soil for succulents consists of two parts soil or soil substitute. A soil-free commercial potting mixture is recommended for homemade potting soil, because the soilless mixture is lightweight, porous, free of weeds and presterilized to remove disease and bacteria often found in garden soil. Good-quality garden topsoil is appropriate if it is sterilized before mixing it with other ingredients. To sterilize garden soil, preheat an oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). Spread the soil in a baking pan and heat it for 20 minutes. Stirring the soil every five minutes heats it evenly and prevents scorching.
Peat Moss
A potting soil for succulents benefits from the inclusion of two parts peat moss. Peat moss is too acidic to be used as a potting mixture on its own, but when incorporated into soil and other ingredients, it promotes moisture retention and nutrient absorption while providing ample air circulation around growing roots.
Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep succulents healthy and thriving.
Sand
A ratio of one part clean sand provides a gritty, coarse texture to a potting soil mixture that enhances the air circulation and moisture drainage required by succulent plants. Sand is also beneficial because it anchors succulents and prevents them from becoming dislodged in loose, lightweight potting mixture. A coarse builder’s sand is preferable, because beach and sandbox sand are too finely textured and dense.
Perlite
Incorporate one part perlite into the potting mixture to add air space. Perlite, inexpensive and easily located in most garden centers, is a granular, white, puffy volcanic rock that improves drainage and prevents compaction of the potting mixture. Vermiculite, also a volcanic byproduct, is a suitable substitute for perlite but is often more expensive. Alternatively, use crushed charcoal in place of perlite or vermiculite.
Additives
A small amount of limestone, rich in calcium and magnesium, balances soil pH and makes soil nutrients more available to the succulents. Similarly, bonemeal supplies phosphate, which stimulates root growth. Use approximately 2 ounces of limestone and 2 ounces (57 gr) of bonemeal for every 4 gallons (15 l) of potting mixture.
Soil
An effective potting soil for succulents consists of two parts soil or soil substitute. A soil-free commercial potting mixture is recommended for homemade potting soil, because the soilless mixture is lightweight, porous, free of weeds and presterilized to remove disease and bacteria often found in garden soil. Good-quality garden topsoil is appropriate if it is sterilized before mixing it with other ingredients. To sterilize garden soil, preheat an oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius). Spread the soil in a baking pan and heat it for 20 minutes. Stirring the soil every five minutes heats it evenly and prevents scorching.
Peat Moss
A potting soil for succulents benefits from the inclusion of two parts peat moss. Peat moss is too acidic to be used as a potting mixture on its own, but when incorporated into soil and other ingredients, it promotes moisture retention and nutrient absorption while providing ample air circulation around growing roots.
Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep succulents healthy and thriving.
Sand
A ratio of one part clean sand provides a gritty, coarse texture to a potting soil mixture that enhances the air circulation and moisture drainage required by succulent plants. Sand is also beneficial because it anchors succulents and prevents them from becoming dislodged in loose, lightweight potting mixture. A coarse builder’s sand is preferable, because beach and sandbox sand are too finely textured and dense.
Perlite
Incorporate one part perlite into the potting mixture to add air space. Perlite, inexpensive and easily located in most garden centers, is a granular, white, puffy volcanic rock that improves drainage and prevents compaction of the potting mixture. Vermiculite, also a volcanic byproduct, is a suitable substitute for perlite but is often more expensive. Alternatively, use crushed charcoal in place of perlite or vermiculite.
Additives
A small amount of limestone, rich in calcium and magnesium, balances soil pH and makes soil nutrients more available to the succulents. Similarly, bonemeal supplies phosphate, which stimulates root growth. Use approximately 2 ounces of limestone and 2 ounces (57 gr) of bonemeal for every 4 gallons (15 l) of potting mixture.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
“Water applied must drain through the soil in fifteen seconds. If it fails to do so, the soil is too dense.” Such advice came to me decades ago from an old school nurseryman who specialized in cacti and succulents. Back then I thought this fifteen second law regarding fast-draining soil for succulents was ridiculous. After moving to the desert I learned what native cactus ground looks like. Water applied instantly vanishes into the soil.
The nurseryman was right.
Today about half my collection of succulent plants are grown in small pots that come into an unheated south facing greenhouse for the winter. They are planted in Black Gold Cactus Mix, which drains within the fifteen second rule.
What many new succulent gardeners fail to understand is that, because cacti root differently, soil is everything. Standard plants go deep to catch ground moisture after the surface soil dries out. In the desert, cacti adapt to short periods of rainfall by spreading out shallow roots over a large area. These roots are capable of rapidly taking up water before it water drains through porous ground. This water is immediately stored in a succulent’s specialized tissues that hold it between widely spaced rain events. Shallow rooting is the reason why most cacti do best in low, wide pots, pans and bowls with large, open drain holes.
Cactus potting soil contains perlite, which looks like little white pieces of popcorn. While it is excellent for a root zone, it floats to the surface when I water. This and little bits of organic matter become entangled in the spines or settle in nooks and crannies of smooth surface skin. This is not only unsightly, it brings soil born bacteria in direct contact with the plant skin which may begin the rotting process.
To control these floaters, succulent aficionados apply a layer of fine gravel on top of the potting soil to keep it all in place when water is applied. Black Gold White Rock is popular for modern style containers with a more graphic look. I prefer Black Gold Washed Gravel because it’s more naturalistic and blends with the rocks I find on walks to use as an accent stone. You can also use aquarium gravel for more unusual or brightly colored composition of succulent, pot and surface material.
Even the smallest damage to the skin of a plant can allow pathogens to enter and begin the process of internal cell damage which leads to softening rot. When transplanting cacti, I handle each plant carefully to avoid the slightest damage. Once removed from the original pot, I do not replant immediately but allow it to sit bare root in the open air for a few days. This lets any damaged roots or skin heal over or callus before repotting in new soil. Failing to do so brings soil pathogens into direct contact with a wound, which inevitably infects internal tissues.
When your soil is sufficiently well drained for cacti and gorgeous succulents, it becomes downright difficult to overwater them. The warmer months of summer are their rapid growing season. During this growing season, water often, feed modestly, and above all, make sure you use Black Gold Cactus Mix to be sure it drains in about fifteen seconds.
The nurseryman was right.
Today about half my collection of succulent plants are grown in small pots that come into an unheated south facing greenhouse for the winter. They are planted in Black Gold Cactus Mix, which drains within the fifteen second rule.
What many new succulent gardeners fail to understand is that, because cacti root differently, soil is everything. Standard plants go deep to catch ground moisture after the surface soil dries out. In the desert, cacti adapt to short periods of rainfall by spreading out shallow roots over a large area. These roots are capable of rapidly taking up water before it water drains through porous ground. This water is immediately stored in a succulent’s specialized tissues that hold it between widely spaced rain events. Shallow rooting is the reason why most cacti do best in low, wide pots, pans and bowls with large, open drain holes.
Cactus potting soil contains perlite, which looks like little white pieces of popcorn. While it is excellent for a root zone, it floats to the surface when I water. This and little bits of organic matter become entangled in the spines or settle in nooks and crannies of smooth surface skin. This is not only unsightly, it brings soil born bacteria in direct contact with the plant skin which may begin the rotting process.
To control these floaters, succulent aficionados apply a layer of fine gravel on top of the potting soil to keep it all in place when water is applied. Black Gold White Rock is popular for modern style containers with a more graphic look. I prefer Black Gold Washed Gravel because it’s more naturalistic and blends with the rocks I find on walks to use as an accent stone. You can also use aquarium gravel for more unusual or brightly colored composition of succulent, pot and surface material.
Even the smallest damage to the skin of a plant can allow pathogens to enter and begin the process of internal cell damage which leads to softening rot. When transplanting cacti, I handle each plant carefully to avoid the slightest damage. Once removed from the original pot, I do not replant immediately but allow it to sit bare root in the open air for a few days. This lets any damaged roots or skin heal over or callus before repotting in new soil. Failing to do so brings soil pathogens into direct contact with a wound, which inevitably infects internal tissues.
When your soil is sufficiently well drained for cacti and gorgeous succulents, it becomes downright difficult to overwater them. The warmer months of summer are their rapid growing season. During this growing season, water often, feed modestly, and above all, make sure you use Black Gold Cactus Mix to be sure it drains in about fifteen seconds.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are group of plants that have fleshy leaves, stems or roots designed for storing water and allowing the plants to survive periods of drought. Whether your succulents grow in containers on a patio, as groundcovers between the pavers in a garden path or as colorful and interesting accents in a garden bed, they need a growing medium suited to their capacity for retaining water.
Soil Requirements
Although succulents retain moisture well, they do still need moderate to regular watering, at least once a week or a deep soaking every few weeks during the growing season. But too much water will cause the roots to develop black stem rot, so the trick is finding a growing medium that drains quickly and dries out completely between watering. Succulents do best with soil that is normally considered poor, filled with inorganic elements, as opposed to one rich in organic material.
Organic and Inorganic Elements
Despite their need for well-draining soil, succulents do need some nutrients that organic elements provide. Some gardeners recommends a mix of 1 part garden soil, 1 part sand and 1 part peat moss or a mixture of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Other gardeners avoid potting mixes containing peat, remove any wood and twigs from the mix and add a coarse, gritty type of sand to potting soil.
Testing the Soil
Using sand, pumice, decomposed granite or perlite as the inorganic element in your succulent growing medium is less important than simply ensuring that the soil crumbles easily and lets water flow quickly through. If your soil falls apart after you wet it and give it a squeeze, it has the right components. If it remains formed into a lump, it needs more inorganic elements added to the mix.
Other Growing Medium Needs
The best soil for succulents is slightly acidic with a high lime content. If a soil test kit determines that your soil is highly acidic, your plants will benefit from some horticultural lime added to the soil. If your soil is overly alkaline, change the balance by watering with a solution of 1 tablespoon of white vinegar added to 5 gallons water. Top off your growing medium with a layer of gravel or small river rock to keep the tops of the plants dry.
Soil Requirements
Although succulents retain moisture well, they do still need moderate to regular watering, at least once a week or a deep soaking every few weeks during the growing season. But too much water will cause the roots to develop black stem rot, so the trick is finding a growing medium that drains quickly and dries out completely between watering. Succulents do best with soil that is normally considered poor, filled with inorganic elements, as opposed to one rich in organic material.
Organic and Inorganic Elements
Despite their need for well-draining soil, succulents do need some nutrients that organic elements provide. Some gardeners recommends a mix of 1 part garden soil, 1 part sand and 1 part peat moss or a mixture of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Other gardeners avoid potting mixes containing peat, remove any wood and twigs from the mix and add a coarse, gritty type of sand to potting soil.
Testing the Soil
Using sand, pumice, decomposed granite or perlite as the inorganic element in your succulent growing medium is less important than simply ensuring that the soil crumbles easily and lets water flow quickly through. If your soil falls apart after you wet it and give it a squeeze, it has the right components. If it remains formed into a lump, it needs more inorganic elements added to the mix.
Other Growing Medium Needs
The best soil for succulents is slightly acidic with a high lime content. If a soil test kit determines that your soil is highly acidic, your plants will benefit from some horticultural lime added to the soil. If your soil is overly alkaline, change the balance by watering with a solution of 1 tablespoon of white vinegar added to 5 gallons water. Top off your growing medium with a layer of gravel or small river rock to keep the tops of the plants dry.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are plants that store water in their tissues, enabling them to live in severe environments such as a desert. Many succulents thrive with full sun exposure. Once some varieties become accustomed to a low light environment, however, they can remain there indefinitely as long as they are cared for properly. Because succulents retain moisture in their thick foliage, they require soil that drains well and less water than typical houseplants.
Mason’s Congo
Originating in central Africa, Mason’s Congo (Sansevieria masoniana) can grow up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall by 2 feet (60 cm) wide. As an indoor plant, it requires little light or water. Its wide, dark-green leaf stalks are covered with lighter green spots, providing a statement in any office, and the plant is simple to maintain. Mason’s Congo is hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zone 10.
Jade Plant
The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a popular indoor plant. It requires minimal watering and is known in Japanese folklore as the Money Plant. According to legend, it can lead to financial success. The thick trunk and branches give this plant a tree like look similar to a bonsai tree. If planted outdoors, the jade plant is considered a perennial succulent, thriving in sunlight to partial shade in areas where it is hardy, USDA zones 10a to 11a.
Gasteria
The Gasterias (Gasteria sp.) grow well indoors. Similar to the Aloe plants, Gasteria has long, spiny, green leaves that grow in a rosette or spiral form. The leaves are spear-shaped and, as true with all succulents, swollen with water-storing tissue. Gasteria is named for its stomach-shaped flowers. The largest Gasteria grows up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Gasteria is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 11 in sandy soil.
Zebra Plant
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) doesn’t take up much room and needs even less care. It’s the ideal succulent for busy lives. Hailing from South Africa, plants perch on soil and sport a tidy form with leaves that boast striking horizontal white stripes. Zebra Plant is hardy outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Aloe Vera
Perhaps the most commonly known succulent is Aloe vera. It can be grown in low-light environments, although it thrives in sunlight. Aloe vera is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 9.
Mason’s Congo
Originating in central Africa, Mason’s Congo (Sansevieria masoniana) can grow up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall by 2 feet (60 cm) wide. As an indoor plant, it requires little light or water. Its wide, dark-green leaf stalks are covered with lighter green spots, providing a statement in any office, and the plant is simple to maintain. Mason’s Congo is hardy outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zone 10.
Jade Plant
The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a popular indoor plant. It requires minimal watering and is known in Japanese folklore as the Money Plant. According to legend, it can lead to financial success. The thick trunk and branches give this plant a tree like look similar to a bonsai tree. If planted outdoors, the jade plant is considered a perennial succulent, thriving in sunlight to partial shade in areas where it is hardy, USDA zones 10a to 11a.
Gasteria
The Gasterias (Gasteria sp.) grow well indoors. Similar to the Aloe plants, Gasteria has long, spiny, green leaves that grow in a rosette or spiral form. The leaves are spear-shaped and, as true with all succulents, swollen with water-storing tissue. Gasteria is named for its stomach-shaped flowers. The largest Gasteria grows up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. Gasteria is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 11 in sandy soil.
Zebra Plant
Zebra Plant (Haworthia fasciata) doesn’t take up much room and needs even less care. It’s the ideal succulent for busy lives. Hailing from South Africa, plants perch on soil and sport a tidy form with leaves that boast striking horizontal white stripes. Zebra Plant is hardy outdoors in USDA zones 9 through 11.
Aloe Vera
Perhaps the most commonly known succulent is Aloe vera. It can be grown in low-light environments, although it thrives in sunlight. Aloe vera is hardy outdoors in USDA zone 9.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
1
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy Aloe and Echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), and Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri) do not have the typical requirements of most succulents. Although true cacti, they are epiphytic in nature, growing in the branches of trees in their native tropical forest rain habitats. The need for high humidity, bright but filtered light, and soil kept relatively moist most of the year sets these plants apart from the majority of cacti and succulents.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
Holiday Cacti bloom at different times of the year, but all require short days and cool night temperatures to initiate flower buds. In fall these plants should be kept in a bright location where the temperature drops to 55 to 65 degrees F (13 to 18 degrees C) at night, rising 5 to 10 degrees in the day. With 55 degrees F (13 dgrees C) night temperatures they will bloom in 5-6 weeks. If the night temperature is 60 to 65 degrees F (15 to 18 degrees C), these plants must have at least 12 hours of complete darkness every night for about 6 weeks in order to bloom. At higher night temperatures it is unlikely that they will bloom at all. Keeping the plants outdoors in a protected location until just before frost danger will result in abundant blooms, provided there’s a cool, bright spot for them when brought indoors.
Holiday cacti should be potted in a standard cactus soil mix and watered thoroughly. Allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. After they have finished blooming water less frequently, increasing again in spring or early summer when the plants resume more active growth. Fertilize several times with a dilute balanced house plant fertilizer during the bright light months, changing to a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium formulation in the fall when flower buds are forming.
Once the buds have started to develop, holiday cacti do not like to be disturbed. Drafts or sudden changes in temperature or humidity-or even the direction of sunlight they receive-can result in dropping buds. If the plants are to be displayed in a warmer room than the one in which the buds were initiated, move them there as soon as the buds appear. As long as there is adequate light and a relatively cool night temperature they should continue to develop normally and will reward you with spectacular blossoms.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sempervivum, also known as “Houseleeks” or “Hen and Chick” plants, are among the most popular succulents. They are exceptionally hardy plants and seem to thrive in cold and hot, low light or strong light. They are closely related to Echeveria, Kalanchoe and Crassula, which all belong to the Crassulaceae family. There is a very wide variety of Sempervivum, and they are easily pressed into service as beautiful mixed-dish gardens.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, some varieties can withstand temperatures down to freezing.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Sempervivum earned their popular name “Hen and Chicks” from their growth habit. The mother plant, or hen, sends off numerous offsets, which will cluster around her base like chicks. These offsets can be easily repotted, or the plants can be left to form a clumping mat.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Sempervivum are not difficult to grow, provided they are not waterlogged and killed from excess watering. They can be easily grown outdoors and in containers, and they earned the name “Houseleeks” from their tendency to root on the roofs of houses. After the mother plant flowers, it will naturally die, but by this time, the plant has likely produced many offsets that will continue to grow. These are excellent for cold windows.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, some varieties can withstand temperatures down to freezing.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Sempervivum earned their popular name “Hen and Chicks” from their growth habit. The mother plant, or hen, sends off numerous offsets, which will cluster around her base like chicks. These offsets can be easily repotted, or the plants can be left to form a clumping mat.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Sempervivum are not difficult to grow, provided they are not waterlogged and killed from excess watering. They can be easily grown outdoors and in containers, and they earned the name “Houseleeks” from their tendency to root on the roofs of houses. After the mother plant flowers, it will naturally die, but by this time, the plant has likely produced many offsets that will continue to grow. These are excellent for cold windows.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Many people think that cacti and succulents require a small amount of water every once in a while. While its true that these plants are tough, and can usually survive under such circumstances, most certainly will not thrive.
During their growing season, these plants like regular watering and fertilizing. For most, the period of growth is from spring into fall. Many plants rest (stop putting on growth) from late fall to early spring, when temperatures are cool and daylight length is short, and during mid-summer, when temperatures are at their peak.
How often to water and fertilize: While growing, cacti and succulents should be watered at least once a week. Some people water more often than this. During each watering, give the soil a good soaking, so that water runs out of the ‘drainage holes’ of the pots. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering. (A balanced fertilizer is one that has roughly equal proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium. A 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength is ideal.)
When the weather cools and day-length shortens, plants enter a rest period. During that time, increase the interval between watering, and let the potting mixture dry out between watering. Some people say that during dormancy, cacti and succulents should be given just enough water so that they show no sign of shriveling. Use some common sense here. If your plants are kept indoors on a window sill in a heated room during the Winter, they will need more water than if they were over-wintered out-of-doors. In any case, do not fertilize your plants during dormancy.
There are exceptions to the above guidelines, as some cacti and, especially some succulents, are winter growers. Again, your local cacti and succulent club can help you determine the particular growing habits of your plants.
A word about water: Tap water often can be alkaline and/or hard, meaning it contains high concentrations of dissolved minerals. Such minerals can build up in the plant’s ‘soil’ over time, causing harm. This is one good reason why your plants should periodically be ‘repotted.’ Buildup of such minerals can also cause unsightly deposits to form, especially on unglazed clay pots. Never water your plants with water that has been through a softening system that uses salt as a recharging agent, as these systems simply replace the “hardness” in the water with sodium ions.
Rain water is preferable to tap water, if you can manage to collect and store it.
Light
Most cacti and succulents like bright light, but not all can tolerate intense, direct sunlight, especially in conjunction with high temperatures. The intensity of the light that a plant will thrive in depends on the species. A plant that is grown in optimal light conditions will “look normal” (unstressed), and is more likely to flower than one grown in sub-optimal lighting conditions. (Keep in mind that succulents, and especially cacti, have very differing ages at which they will flower. For example, even if you give your giant Saguaro seedling (Carnegiea gigantea) conditions that are optimal in every way, you will likely not see it flower in your lifetime.)
While optimal lighting conditions depend on species, there are some general signs that indicate your plant is getting either too much or too little light:
Too much light: When your plant is getting too much light, it can appear “off color,” taking on a “bleached out” look, or turning yellow or even orangish. Keep in mind that these signs can also indicate other stresses, such as disease or too much water, so use common sense when making your diagnosis.
If your plant is moved suddenly into very bright sunlight conditions, or if the weather suddenly turns hot with abundant sunshine, your plant can scorch. This can happen very rapidly and can scar the plant for the rest of its life, so be on alert for when such a condition might occur, and take precautions to prevent scorching.
Too little light: If your plant is receiving too little light, it might etiolate and/or appear to really reach for the light source. (Etiolation is the condition where a plant becomes “drawn,” for example, a cactus plant that is normally round begins to look as if it is being stretched out from the growing point at its center). Your plant will suffer if left in such light conditions for very long. When transitioning such a plant to stronger light, keep in mind that it will be especially prone to scorching, so make the transition slowly.
Note that in most cases, it is quite normal for a plant to slowly grow toward the light. What you want to avoid is the condition where it is really reaching for the light. For example, if your columnar cactus is bent toward the window at 90°, it’s trying to tell you something.
For a potted plant that slowly grows toward the light over time, you can rotate its pot to cause it to grow in a more balanced fashion. Remember, if you do this, that the side of the plant that had not been exposed to direct sunlight for a long time might scorch if you make the transition too quickly. Be careful!
During their growing season, these plants like regular watering and fertilizing. For most, the period of growth is from spring into fall. Many plants rest (stop putting on growth) from late fall to early spring, when temperatures are cool and daylight length is short, and during mid-summer, when temperatures are at their peak.
How often to water and fertilize: While growing, cacti and succulents should be watered at least once a week. Some people water more often than this. During each watering, give the soil a good soaking, so that water runs out of the ‘drainage holes’ of the pots. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering. (A balanced fertilizer is one that has roughly equal proportions of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium. A 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to 1/4 strength is ideal.)
When the weather cools and day-length shortens, plants enter a rest period. During that time, increase the interval between watering, and let the potting mixture dry out between watering. Some people say that during dormancy, cacti and succulents should be given just enough water so that they show no sign of shriveling. Use some common sense here. If your plants are kept indoors on a window sill in a heated room during the Winter, they will need more water than if they were over-wintered out-of-doors. In any case, do not fertilize your plants during dormancy.
There are exceptions to the above guidelines, as some cacti and, especially some succulents, are winter growers. Again, your local cacti and succulent club can help you determine the particular growing habits of your plants.
A word about water: Tap water often can be alkaline and/or hard, meaning it contains high concentrations of dissolved minerals. Such minerals can build up in the plant’s ‘soil’ over time, causing harm. This is one good reason why your plants should periodically be ‘repotted.’ Buildup of such minerals can also cause unsightly deposits to form, especially on unglazed clay pots. Never water your plants with water that has been through a softening system that uses salt as a recharging agent, as these systems simply replace the “hardness” in the water with sodium ions.
Rain water is preferable to tap water, if you can manage to collect and store it.
Light
Most cacti and succulents like bright light, but not all can tolerate intense, direct sunlight, especially in conjunction with high temperatures. The intensity of the light that a plant will thrive in depends on the species. A plant that is grown in optimal light conditions will “look normal” (unstressed), and is more likely to flower than one grown in sub-optimal lighting conditions. (Keep in mind that succulents, and especially cacti, have very differing ages at which they will flower. For example, even if you give your giant Saguaro seedling (Carnegiea gigantea) conditions that are optimal in every way, you will likely not see it flower in your lifetime.)
While optimal lighting conditions depend on species, there are some general signs that indicate your plant is getting either too much or too little light:
Too much light: When your plant is getting too much light, it can appear “off color,” taking on a “bleached out” look, or turning yellow or even orangish. Keep in mind that these signs can also indicate other stresses, such as disease or too much water, so use common sense when making your diagnosis.
If your plant is moved suddenly into very bright sunlight conditions, or if the weather suddenly turns hot with abundant sunshine, your plant can scorch. This can happen very rapidly and can scar the plant for the rest of its life, so be on alert for when such a condition might occur, and take precautions to prevent scorching.
Too little light: If your plant is receiving too little light, it might etiolate and/or appear to really reach for the light source. (Etiolation is the condition where a plant becomes “drawn,” for example, a cactus plant that is normally round begins to look as if it is being stretched out from the growing point at its center). Your plant will suffer if left in such light conditions for very long. When transitioning such a plant to stronger light, keep in mind that it will be especially prone to scorching, so make the transition slowly.
Note that in most cases, it is quite normal for a plant to slowly grow toward the light. What you want to avoid is the condition where it is really reaching for the light. For example, if your columnar cactus is bent toward the window at 90°, it’s trying to tell you something.
For a potted plant that slowly grows toward the light over time, you can rotate its pot to cause it to grow in a more balanced fashion. Remember, if you do this, that the side of the plant that had not been exposed to direct sunlight for a long time might scorch if you make the transition too quickly. Be careful!
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
OK, so you just returned from the store with your first cactus plant, or perhaps you bought one of those funny looking little plants with a tag sticking in the pot that says “Assorted Succulents.” You might be asking yourself, “how do I take care of this thing?”
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
The first thing to realize is that the words “cacti” and “succulent” are general terms. Cacti belong to a specific family of plants, but the species within that family come from some very different habitats. Many cacti, such as those in the genus Ferocactus, are in fact true desert dwellers. Others, such as those in the genus Echinopsis, live in the grasslands of South America, those in the genus Oreocereus live in the high Andes mountains, and those in the genus Epiphyllum live in jungles and don’t even live in the ground, but upon other plants.
When talking about succulents, it gets even crazier. The term “succulent” is completely non-scientific, and basically can refer to any plant with fleshy parts (leaves, stems, or roots), usually which are adapted for storing moisture in times of drought. These plants come from all over the world and live in all different habitats.
Why do you need to know all of this? Well, the more you know about your “Assorted Succulent” or “African Zipper Plant,” the more chance you have of being successful growing it. If you are lucky enough to live in an area that has a local cactus and succulent club, visit one of their meetings, bring your plant, and be prepared to find out all kinds of things about it, like what its real name is, where plants of its type grow in the wild, and what growing conditions it likes.
If you aren’t so lucky to have a local cactus and succulent club close by, or are just too eager to get started caring for your new baby, all is not lost. There are some general rules that can be applied to those plants we call cacti and other succulents.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
A group of plants called succulents that have either fleshy stems and/or leaves are often chosen as house plants for direct light conditions. Their ability to endure drought is reflected in the succulent stem/leaf condition where water is stored. These plants come from many plant families; most notably the cactus family. Others in this group, however, come from sub-tropical areas where light conditions are less extreme and moisture is more abundant. In this second group we find the Christmas, Thanksgiving, Easter and Orchid cacti. Some refer to this group as the jungle cacti because they are found as understory plants in tropical forests.
Some succulents make good house plants because they generally do not require much care and can grow under the average conditions of the home in which we find higher temperatures and low humidity. Some varieties are slow growers and therefore, present fewer demands for care than most other house plants. If you have a southern window in your home that receives direct light and becomes fairly hot, then you might consider choosing a succulent for that spot.
Light
The cacti and succulents generally require at least 4 hours of bright, direct light each day. However, some including the jungle cacti prefer medium light intensities and should never be placed in direct light except during the winter. Overall, if you wish to move a plant which has been grown in indirect light to direct light, then this should be done gradually. The same is true if you move a plant outdoors. Even though it has been in a direct light location in the house, it will be damaged if moved directly to full sun. Moving plants to a position with filtered light such as under a tree or shade screen will prevent sunscald. This appears as a bleaching of the foliage resulting in a yellow-white color. In addition, plants receiving direct light benefit from turning periodically so that all sides are exposed. This is especially true of plants with heavy growth.
Temperature and Humidity
Most cacti and succulents tolerate the low humidities and warmth of the home. During the winter, it becomes difficult to regulate humidity because of heating. The only succulents which can be temperamental are the jungle cacti. These plants, including the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti, require higher humidities and should be placed on a tray of moistened rocks. This condition will promote flowering and flower retention.
Temperature in the home is generally adequate to maintain cacti and succulents all year round and this makes them particularly suitable as house plants. Some, however, do much better if presented with cool conditions during the winter. This is known as a rest period. Window sills and cool basements are good sites for these plants. The light should be as bright as possible.
Watering
Overall, cacti and succulents should be watered more frequently during the period of greatest growth and this occurs between the months of March and October in the Midwest. The most frequent cause of problems with the cacti is due to overwatering. The moisture condition should be checked ever 2 to 3 weeks. This is simply done by sticking the index finger into the soil. Soil particles should not cling if conditions are dry. Also, you should become familiar with the weight of the pot at dryness and this can served as a gauge for watering. It is best to allow the pot to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Plants in full sun will naturally dry out more quickly than those in filtered light. In winter, water no more than once per month. This is a slow growth period. Overwatering at this time will result is root rot by fungal organisms. Jungle cacti should be kept evenly moist all year round, especially during the flowering period of late fall or early spring. When flowering has stopped, water should be withheld to allow the soil to dry before rewatering.
Soil
The soil mix should match the moisture requirements of the plant. This is better than trying to match the frequency of watering the soil mix. It also dictates the drainage and regulates the nutrient supply. All cacti and succulents require good drainage and the type of soil should be coarser. An appropriate soil mix for most cacti would consist of two parts sand and one part soil mix. For tropical cacti like Christmas and Easter cacti, mix one part sand with one part soil mix and one part peat. The peat will hold more moisture than is required for these plants. Sand will create the proper drainage for all cacti and succulents and by varying its content, greater or lesser moisture will be held by the mix.
Fertilization
Generally, succulents and cacti do not demand a great deal of fertilizer to grow. Amounts recommended for typical house plants should be cut back to one-quarter to one-half concentration typically recommended on the label. The time to fertilize is during the active growth phase which begins in March and ends in October. In winter, no fertilizer is necessary as this represents the dormant state where little obvious growth occurs.
Repotting and Propagation
Most cacti and succulent prefer to be pot-bound. This condition leads to more frequent flowering in the case of jungle cacti. If plants become too pot-bound and the top growth is unbalanced, they should be repotted. The size of the pot should only be about 1 inch larger in diameter than the previous one. Tall plants should be repotted in a container which is at least one-half the size in diameter as the plant is tall. The time to repot is when growth begins in the spring. Potting during the dormant stage will set the plant back because a part of the root system may be lost during the process and it will be very slow to recover.
Cacti and succulents are among the easiest to propagate because they have such a large storage system of water and nutrients and are thus, very well adapted to adverse growing conditions. Some cacti actually loose parts of their stems as an active way to self-propagate. These parts may lay dormant for over a year and become quite desiccated before new roots emerge as a response to wetter conditions. There are three forms of vegetative propagation where some part of the mother plant is removed and used to grow the new plant. This is by offset division, stem cuttings and leaf cuttings.
Although more time consuming, some cacti and succulents can be started from seed. Generally, this is not worth the trouble because it may take between 2 to 5 years to establish the new plant with such slow growth rates as characterized by these plants.
The most popular way to propagate cacti and succulents is by division. Certain cacti will produce offsets which are small bulb-like protrusions that stick out from the mother plant. These can simply be pinched off and potted after a couple days of drying at room temperature to callus over the wound. The soil should be kept damp for about 4 weeks. Check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the pot lifts with the plant, then you can be assured that it has rooted.
The other way many cacti and succulents can be propagated is by taking cuttings of stems and leaves. Plants can be cut just above a node with a sharp, clean knife. The excised part should be air dried for 2 days then potted by burying a slight portion of the plant part in a sandy/peat potting mix. In a similar way, leaf portions from some plants like Sansevieria can be cut and potted. Leaf segments for this plants should be about 2 inches long. A segment should be potted in such a way that the basal portion that was closest to the root system of the mother plant is buried in the soil mix. Roots will not form from segments that are upside-down.
Cacti and Succulents that Flower
Although it may take a number of years, most small cacti and succulents will eventually flower. Larger cacti are not frequent flower producers. Some produce a tremendous number of blossoms over a short period and some only produce one or two. Additionally, some plants only produce flowers at night which last a single 24-hour period. Others bloom in full sun.
The most prized flowering plants in this class are the jungle cacti. These plants are native to shaded tropical forest floors and, therefore, do not fair well under intense light. Flowers are initiated when the day length becomes short as would occur in early winter and spring. The famous Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are two such plants which respond to short days. These plants should be placed in a window which receives indirect light. They do best when they become pot-bound and the soil moisture is evenly maintained. Changing conditions in the middle of the flower response will surely result in bud drop, a condition which plagues many indoor gardeners.
Some succulents make good house plants because they generally do not require much care and can grow under the average conditions of the home in which we find higher temperatures and low humidity. Some varieties are slow growers and therefore, present fewer demands for care than most other house plants. If you have a southern window in your home that receives direct light and becomes fairly hot, then you might consider choosing a succulent for that spot.
Light
The cacti and succulents generally require at least 4 hours of bright, direct light each day. However, some including the jungle cacti prefer medium light intensities and should never be placed in direct light except during the winter. Overall, if you wish to move a plant which has been grown in indirect light to direct light, then this should be done gradually. The same is true if you move a plant outdoors. Even though it has been in a direct light location in the house, it will be damaged if moved directly to full sun. Moving plants to a position with filtered light such as under a tree or shade screen will prevent sunscald. This appears as a bleaching of the foliage resulting in a yellow-white color. In addition, plants receiving direct light benefit from turning periodically so that all sides are exposed. This is especially true of plants with heavy growth.
Temperature and Humidity
Most cacti and succulents tolerate the low humidities and warmth of the home. During the winter, it becomes difficult to regulate humidity because of heating. The only succulents which can be temperamental are the jungle cacti. These plants, including the Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti, require higher humidities and should be placed on a tray of moistened rocks. This condition will promote flowering and flower retention.
Temperature in the home is generally adequate to maintain cacti and succulents all year round and this makes them particularly suitable as house plants. Some, however, do much better if presented with cool conditions during the winter. This is known as a rest period. Window sills and cool basements are good sites for these plants. The light should be as bright as possible.
Watering
Overall, cacti and succulents should be watered more frequently during the period of greatest growth and this occurs between the months of March and October in the Midwest. The most frequent cause of problems with the cacti is due to overwatering. The moisture condition should be checked ever 2 to 3 weeks. This is simply done by sticking the index finger into the soil. Soil particles should not cling if conditions are dry. Also, you should become familiar with the weight of the pot at dryness and this can served as a gauge for watering. It is best to allow the pot to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Plants in full sun will naturally dry out more quickly than those in filtered light. In winter, water no more than once per month. This is a slow growth period. Overwatering at this time will result is root rot by fungal organisms. Jungle cacti should be kept evenly moist all year round, especially during the flowering period of late fall or early spring. When flowering has stopped, water should be withheld to allow the soil to dry before rewatering.
Soil
The soil mix should match the moisture requirements of the plant. This is better than trying to match the frequency of watering the soil mix. It also dictates the drainage and regulates the nutrient supply. All cacti and succulents require good drainage and the type of soil should be coarser. An appropriate soil mix for most cacti would consist of two parts sand and one part soil mix. For tropical cacti like Christmas and Easter cacti, mix one part sand with one part soil mix and one part peat. The peat will hold more moisture than is required for these plants. Sand will create the proper drainage for all cacti and succulents and by varying its content, greater or lesser moisture will be held by the mix.
Fertilization
Generally, succulents and cacti do not demand a great deal of fertilizer to grow. Amounts recommended for typical house plants should be cut back to one-quarter to one-half concentration typically recommended on the label. The time to fertilize is during the active growth phase which begins in March and ends in October. In winter, no fertilizer is necessary as this represents the dormant state where little obvious growth occurs.
Repotting and Propagation
Most cacti and succulent prefer to be pot-bound. This condition leads to more frequent flowering in the case of jungle cacti. If plants become too pot-bound and the top growth is unbalanced, they should be repotted. The size of the pot should only be about 1 inch larger in diameter than the previous one. Tall plants should be repotted in a container which is at least one-half the size in diameter as the plant is tall. The time to repot is when growth begins in the spring. Potting during the dormant stage will set the plant back because a part of the root system may be lost during the process and it will be very slow to recover.
Cacti and succulents are among the easiest to propagate because they have such a large storage system of water and nutrients and are thus, very well adapted to adverse growing conditions. Some cacti actually loose parts of their stems as an active way to self-propagate. These parts may lay dormant for over a year and become quite desiccated before new roots emerge as a response to wetter conditions. There are three forms of vegetative propagation where some part of the mother plant is removed and used to grow the new plant. This is by offset division, stem cuttings and leaf cuttings.
Although more time consuming, some cacti and succulents can be started from seed. Generally, this is not worth the trouble because it may take between 2 to 5 years to establish the new plant with such slow growth rates as characterized by these plants.
The most popular way to propagate cacti and succulents is by division. Certain cacti will produce offsets which are small bulb-like protrusions that stick out from the mother plant. These can simply be pinched off and potted after a couple days of drying at room temperature to callus over the wound. The soil should be kept damp for about 4 weeks. Check for roots by tugging at the plant. If the pot lifts with the plant, then you can be assured that it has rooted.
The other way many cacti and succulents can be propagated is by taking cuttings of stems and leaves. Plants can be cut just above a node with a sharp, clean knife. The excised part should be air dried for 2 days then potted by burying a slight portion of the plant part in a sandy/peat potting mix. In a similar way, leaf portions from some plants like Sansevieria can be cut and potted. Leaf segments for this plants should be about 2 inches long. A segment should be potted in such a way that the basal portion that was closest to the root system of the mother plant is buried in the soil mix. Roots will not form from segments that are upside-down.
Cacti and Succulents that Flower
Although it may take a number of years, most small cacti and succulents will eventually flower. Larger cacti are not frequent flower producers. Some produce a tremendous number of blossoms over a short period and some only produce one or two. Additionally, some plants only produce flowers at night which last a single 24-hour period. Others bloom in full sun.
The most prized flowering plants in this class are the jungle cacti. These plants are native to shaded tropical forest floors and, therefore, do not fair well under intense light. Flowers are initiated when the day length becomes short as would occur in early winter and spring. The famous Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are two such plants which respond to short days. These plants should be placed in a window which receives indirect light. They do best when they become pot-bound and the soil moisture is evenly maintained. Changing conditions in the middle of the flower response will surely result in bud drop, a condition which plagues many indoor gardeners.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
First let’s clarify some terminology. All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. While both cacti and succulents have thick fleshy parts which have the ability to store moisture for use when times are tough, the similarity ends there.
A true cactus has an areole. It looks like a patch of cotton from which spines, flowers, and roots grow. While some succulents may have spines, they do not have areoles.
Although some succulents are winter hardy, many are native to warmer worlds and are quite content as easy-care houseplants. All they need is a bright, sunny location, proper temperature, and occasional watering. Succulents are happy next to southern exposure windows or near fluorescent lights.
The growth cycles of cacti and succulents are usually in response to water and temperature. Most go dormant during the fall and winter when temperatures are cooler and moisture and light levels are low. They do their best growth in summer.
Even though cacti and succulents can tolerate dry conditions for extended periods, they appreciate some water especially during their active growth period. Soil should be watered thoroughly but allowed to dry for a few days. Be sure to use a well-drained cactus soil mix. In winter keep dormant plants on the dry side for longer periods. Overwatering dormant succulents can lead to rotting of the plant’s stems or roots.
Dormant plants prefer temperatures between 45 and 55 degrees F. Flower buds are more likely to form at cooler temperatures. Areas next to windows often provide the perfect growing environment during the winter and can satisfy the cool temperature requirement. Normal room temperatures will not harm the plant but cold helps to promote flowers.
Most cacti and succulents have their active growth cycle during the spring and summer. Plants with this growth cycle include the Echinocactus, Ferocactus, Opuntia, and Parodia.
During the summer, cacti and succulents like to be outdoors. Locate them where they get light shade and keep them watered.
Unusual is the operative word when describing cacti and succulents. One look at the variety of sizes, textures, and colors will make a fanatic succulent collector out of many gardeners. A few succulents are good starter plants for their ease of maintenance.
The Mammillarias or Pin Cushion cacti are commonly sold. Their silky hairs give rise to names such as Bird Nest Cactus, Old Lady Cactus, and Feather Cactus. They flower readily with a halo of white to pink flowers.
One of my favorites for their architectural look is the Aeoniums. These succulents grow in flat pinwheels in colors of green, bronze, or silver.
One quick look at Lithops reveals the source of their other name – Living Stones. In contrast to other succulents their dry dormant period is summer. With the proper care daisy-like flowers may appear in November or December through “cracks in the stones”.
If you love weird and wonderful, cacti and succulents are your perfect pet rocks.
A true cactus has an areole. It looks like a patch of cotton from which spines, flowers, and roots grow. While some succulents may have spines, they do not have areoles.
Although some succulents are winter hardy, many are native to warmer worlds and are quite content as easy-care houseplants. All they need is a bright, sunny location, proper temperature, and occasional watering. Succulents are happy next to southern exposure windows or near fluorescent lights.
The growth cycles of cacti and succulents are usually in response to water and temperature. Most go dormant during the fall and winter when temperatures are cooler and moisture and light levels are low. They do their best growth in summer.
Even though cacti and succulents can tolerate dry conditions for extended periods, they appreciate some water especially during their active growth period. Soil should be watered thoroughly but allowed to dry for a few days. Be sure to use a well-drained cactus soil mix. In winter keep dormant plants on the dry side for longer periods. Overwatering dormant succulents can lead to rotting of the plant’s stems or roots.
Dormant plants prefer temperatures between 45 and 55 degrees F. Flower buds are more likely to form at cooler temperatures. Areas next to windows often provide the perfect growing environment during the winter and can satisfy the cool temperature requirement. Normal room temperatures will not harm the plant but cold helps to promote flowers.
Most cacti and succulents have their active growth cycle during the spring and summer. Plants with this growth cycle include the Echinocactus, Ferocactus, Opuntia, and Parodia.
During the summer, cacti and succulents like to be outdoors. Locate them where they get light shade and keep them watered.
Unusual is the operative word when describing cacti and succulents. One look at the variety of sizes, textures, and colors will make a fanatic succulent collector out of many gardeners. A few succulents are good starter plants for their ease of maintenance.
The Mammillarias or Pin Cushion cacti are commonly sold. Their silky hairs give rise to names such as Bird Nest Cactus, Old Lady Cactus, and Feather Cactus. They flower readily with a halo of white to pink flowers.
One of my favorites for their architectural look is the Aeoniums. These succulents grow in flat pinwheels in colors of green, bronze, or silver.
One quick look at Lithops reveals the source of their other name – Living Stones. In contrast to other succulents their dry dormant period is summer. With the proper care daisy-like flowers may appear in November or December through “cracks in the stones”.
If you love weird and wonderful, cacti and succulents are your perfect pet rocks.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Aeoniums are odd looking succulents, with long, arching stems and rosettes of leaves that can often look fake. You’d be forgiven if you had to touch one to tell if it was real or rubbery plastic. There are about 35 species and most are native to the Canary Islands and like a Mediterranean climate – not too hot, not too cold, not too dry.
The plants form fleshy rosettes and you will notice a similarity between Aeoniums and several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum. Aeoniums can be low growers or branched plants that grow into shrubs.
Growing Conditions
Water: Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in very dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75˚F / 18–24˚C) and damp. In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Soil: A sandy loam or regular potting mix is better than a mix specifically for cacti and succulents, since Aeonium need some moisture. If you are growing them in containers, repot every 2 –3 years with fresh potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed during the growing season with a half strength balanced fertilizern , every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
General Care
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeonium will take care of themselves and actually thrive on neglect. Otherwise your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, or moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeonium have underdeveloped root systems, since they store their water in their leaves and stems. The have the ability to produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems falls and touches soil. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off, from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can repot the broken stem.
Most Aeoniums die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, they will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. You can start new plants from the seed.
Pests and Problems
Few pests bother Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage and the occasional bird may take a bite.
The plants form fleshy rosettes and you will notice a similarity between Aeoniums and several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum. Aeoniums can be low growers or branched plants that grow into shrubs.
Growing Conditions
Water: Aeoniums do not like really hot or dry weather. They may go dormant in summer and do not require any water, except in very dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl, to prevent excessive water loss. Growing them in moist shade will keep them growing, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65–75˚F / 18–24˚C) and damp. In the winter, water whenever the soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. Too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Soil: A sandy loam or regular potting mix is better than a mix specifically for cacti and succulents, since Aeonium need some moisture. If you are growing them in containers, repot every 2 –3 years with fresh potting soil.
Fertilizer: Feed during the growing season with a half strength balanced fertilizern , every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
General Care
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeonium will take care of themselves and actually thrive on neglect. Otherwise your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, or moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeonium have underdeveloped root systems, since they store their water in their leaves and stems. The have the ability to produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems falls and touches soil. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off, from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can repot the broken stem.
Most Aeoniums die after flowering. If the plant has produced side shoots, they will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. You can start new plants from the seed.
Pests and Problems
Few pests bother Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage and the occasional bird may take a bite.
0
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Euphorbia is a very large genus of plants, with over 2,000 species. About 1,200 of them are succulents, some with bizarre shapes and wide fleshy leaves and others that look remarkably like cacti, complete with spines. Among the the non-succulent deciduous Euphorbia plants are shrubs, annuals, and perennials like milkweed and the popular holiday plant, Poinsettia.
Euphorbias are popular as popular for their structural intrigue as for their drought tolerance. Use the tall angular varieties for focal points and the floppy or chain-like species to spill over containers or walls. Many succulents have infrequent or inconsequential blooms, but Euphorbias will provide color in dry gardens for long periods of time. Mixing them with groupings of Senecio and Agave will create a garden full of texture and leaves of gray, blue, yellow and deep green.
Euphorbias are very easy to care for. They require a little pampering to become established, but once they are, they are self-sufficient. In fact, more die from too much care and watering than from neglect.
Growing Conditions
Soil: Euphorbias need well-draining soil and lots of sunlight. They are not particular about soil pH, but they cannot tolerant wet soil.
Water: Unlike most succulents, Euphorbia does not handle long periods of drought well. It may need weekly watering during the summer. Water whenever the soil is dry several inches below the surface. Water deeply, but don’t let them sit in wet soil, which can cause root rot.
Feeding: Add some organic matter or fertilizer to the planting hole. If you are growing them in containers or your soil is poor, feed with a half-strength fertilizer monthly.
Propagating
Euphorbia can be grown from seed, but they can be difficult to germinate (or even find). It is usually propagated by cuttings. This can be tricky, because of the exuding sap. Rooting hormone is recommended with Euphorbias.
Pests and Problems
Euphorbia plants tend to grow problem free, but there are a few pests and diseases to be alert for:
Mealy Bugs and Spider Mites are the most common pests. Catching them early is your pest chance for controlling them.
Root Rot was mentioned above. It is only a problem when plants are allowed to sit in wet soil.
Powdery Mildew – Although Euphorbia like humidity, they also need good air circulation or they will be susceptible to mildews. Try correcting the cultural conditions first, because strong fungicides can harm leaves.
Euphorbias are popular as popular for their structural intrigue as for their drought tolerance. Use the tall angular varieties for focal points and the floppy or chain-like species to spill over containers or walls. Many succulents have infrequent or inconsequential blooms, but Euphorbias will provide color in dry gardens for long periods of time. Mixing them with groupings of Senecio and Agave will create a garden full of texture and leaves of gray, blue, yellow and deep green.
Euphorbias are very easy to care for. They require a little pampering to become established, but once they are, they are self-sufficient. In fact, more die from too much care and watering than from neglect.
Growing Conditions
Soil: Euphorbias need well-draining soil and lots of sunlight. They are not particular about soil pH, but they cannot tolerant wet soil.
Water: Unlike most succulents, Euphorbia does not handle long periods of drought well. It may need weekly watering during the summer. Water whenever the soil is dry several inches below the surface. Water deeply, but don’t let them sit in wet soil, which can cause root rot.
Feeding: Add some organic matter or fertilizer to the planting hole. If you are growing them in containers or your soil is poor, feed with a half-strength fertilizer monthly.
Propagating
Euphorbia can be grown from seed, but they can be difficult to germinate (or even find). It is usually propagated by cuttings. This can be tricky, because of the exuding sap. Rooting hormone is recommended with Euphorbias.
Pests and Problems
Euphorbia plants tend to grow problem free, but there are a few pests and diseases to be alert for:
Mealy Bugs and Spider Mites are the most common pests. Catching them early is your pest chance for controlling them.
Root Rot was mentioned above. It is only a problem when plants are allowed to sit in wet soil.
Powdery Mildew – Although Euphorbia like humidity, they also need good air circulation or they will be susceptible to mildews. Try correcting the cultural conditions first, because strong fungicides can harm leaves.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The genus Kalanchoe includes more than 100 plants, but only a few are regularly seen in cultivation. Kalanchoes are native to arid areas, and they are popular succulents. Modern hybrids are valued for their interesting leaf-forms or for their flowers.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
Flowering Kalanchoes are available in red, pink, yellow, or white. Like many succulents, these are not difficult plants to grow, providing you are careful with the water, especially in the winter.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer bright, sunny locations, especially in the summer growing season. During the winter, consider a south-facing window.
Water: Water moderately throughout the summer and reduce watering in the winter. Let the soil surface dry out between waterings, and in the winter, the plant can almost dry out. Watch the fleshy leaves for signs of water distress.
Temperature: They prefer warmth. Do not let fall below 55ºF (12.7ºC).
Soil: An ordinary potting soil mix is fine.
Fertilizer: Feed bi-weekly in the summer with a liquid fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets.
Propagation
Many kinds of Kalanchoe will produce tiny plantlets along the leaf margins that can be individually potted up. These types include The Air Plant (K. pinnata) and K. beharensis. The more popular K. blossfeldiana and K. manginii can be propagated by leaf cutting or tip.
Grower’s Tips
Kalanchoes are not particularly hard to grow, and the flowering varieties (K. blossfeldiana) are highly rewarding for their colorful and long-lasting flowers. Many people discard the plants after the bloom is over, but this isn’t really necessary. Simply cut off the flowering head, let the plant rest with reduced water, and resume its normal care. It should flower naturally in spring. Professional growers force Kalanchoes to bloom throughout the year (they are a short-day plant). The two pendant Kalanchoes make excellent hanging plants.
2
2
