文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Living Stones (Lithops) are unusual succulents that have evolved to resemble the pebbles and rocks that litter their native habitats through southern Africa. These very small plants hug the ground and grow extremely slowly. It can take years for a plant to eventually fill its pots with new leaves. Structurally, Lithops are comprised of two fused leaves above ground that connect to an underground stem with a long root.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Senecio is a very large genus with over 1000 species dispersed around the world. Some are lovely and some, like the groundsels and ragworts, are noxious weeds. Some, like Dusty Miller, are tender perennials. This profile covers the succulents. There are about 100 succulent Senecios. Some are oddities and not really suited to the garden, but they are certainly interesting.
There are some large shrubs, but many are small, either trailing plants or spreading ground covers. As with most succulents, they are very drought and heat tolerant and not very cold tolerant. Many Senecio species are toxic to animals. Use care and do not plant where animals or kids might be tempted to munch them.
Growing Conditions
Cold Hardiness: Most fall somewhere around USDA Hardiness Zones 9 – 11. A few can tolerate brief periods of cold or dampness, but prolonged exposure will turn them to mush.
Soil: Senecio doesn’t seem to be particular about soil pH. Something in the neural range (6.0 – 7.0) would be fine. More importantly, make sure the soil is on the sandy side and well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left damp.
Propagating
Senecio can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds prefer warm temperatures (55˚F / 13˚C). And constant moisture to germinate. Cuttings are easier and faster. Cut during the growing season, early spring to fall. Root in sandy soil, in containers.
General Care
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant. Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth.
Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
Pests and Problems
Few pests bother Senecio. They can occasionally be affected by scale and mealy bugs. Rabbits found my String of Pearls quite tasty.
There are some large shrubs, but many are small, either trailing plants or spreading ground covers. As with most succulents, they are very drought and heat tolerant and not very cold tolerant. Many Senecio species are toxic to animals. Use care and do not plant where animals or kids might be tempted to munch them.
Growing Conditions
Cold Hardiness: Most fall somewhere around USDA Hardiness Zones 9 – 11. A few can tolerate brief periods of cold or dampness, but prolonged exposure will turn them to mush.
Soil: Senecio doesn’t seem to be particular about soil pH. Something in the neural range (6.0 – 7.0) would be fine. More importantly, make sure the soil is on the sandy side and well-draining soil. Plants will rot if left damp.
Propagating
Senecio can be grown from either seed or cuttings. Seeds prefer warm temperatures (55˚F / 13˚C). And constant moisture to germinate. Cuttings are easier and faster. Cut during the growing season, early spring to fall. Root in sandy soil, in containers.
General Care
Established plants are extremely drought tolerant. They do need some water, during the summer, but do not leave the soil wet for prolonged periods. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings in the winter, when they are somewhat dormant. Since they are growing in sandy soil, nutrients will need to be replenished. Fertilize annually, but lightly. Too much fertilizer will cause a lot of leggy growth.
Taller varieties can get floppy. You can prune them back to where the stem is firm, in very early spring. You can even root the cuttings.
Plants can be divided or repotted in early spring. If you are growing them in containers, they enjoy spending the summer outdoors. Wait until there is no danger of frost and move them back indoors in the fall.
Pests and Problems
Few pests bother Senecio. They can occasionally be affected by scale and mealy bugs. Rabbits found my String of Pearls quite tasty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Avid gardeners know that growing plants is a fine art. Many succulents are extremely hardy because they have fleshy parts in their structure to retain water, which makes them well suited to dry areas that receive little rain. However, they still require tender care and careful maintenance to achieve a splendid, healthy appearance. Both novice and more experienced gardeners can benefit from tips that help them to grow healthy succulents.
1. Use the sun
Succulents may be hardy, but they still like plenty of sunshine because they are desert plants. Gardeners should always place succulents on a sun porch or in a greenhouse so that the plants get plenty of natural light. If growing them indoors, succulents should be placed as close to a large window as possible, and ideally one that faces the direction that the sun rises for maximise exposure.
2. Take succulents outside
A lack of sunlight is the biggest threat to plants, including succulents. If gardeners want to grow succulents indoors but find that an acceptable level of sunlight is not reaching the plants, they should simply move them outside for a couple of days each week. This helps succulents to reach their full potential.
3. Give succulents some space
As sunlight is so important to succulents, allowing the plants ample breathing space is an essential part of ensuring that they remain healthy. It is important to move succulents if there is any danger that other plants may block precious sunlight. Placing succulents in a separate area is another solution.
4. Ease off pruning
Succulents grow slowly and many never require any pruning. Gardeners should allow their plants to grow naturally and use secateurs only when absolutely necessary. For example, when space is at a premium and the foliage from one succulent prevents sunlight from reaching another plant.
5. Put down the watering can
Contrary to popular belief, succulents need no more water than other plants and often require less than others that are popular in temperate climates. They have thick stems and leaves that store water efficiently, which is why they often need less frequent watering. In general, gardeners should water succulents when the plants are visibly dry.
6. Pay attention to drainage and fertilizer
The soil that works best for many plants is not always best for succulents, which thrive in porous soil that drains quickly and easily. Mixing ordinary healthy soil with sand at a ratio of around 30/70 ensures that the soil around the plant does not store too much water. Succulents also require less fertilizer than many other plants. A low-balanced soluble fertilizer delivered at half or a quarter of the quantity for ordinary plants is sufficient.
7. Choose green succulents
Succulents often prove to be a challenge for new gardeners, so it is always best to start by growing green succulents, such as cacti, Agave, or Aloe plants. These are some of the hardiest varieties and do well indoors if placed next to a large window.
8. Kill pests
As with all plants, bugs and pests can damage succulents quickly. Gardeners must check plants for insect infestation thoroughly and regularly, and get rid of pests as quickly as possible. Watering sparingly is a good way to avoid gnats. A natural pesticide that is not harmful to houseplants is also beneficial.
9. Keep succulents warm
Succulents are easy to maintain and tolerant to drought, but healthy succulents do not survive even a light frost. As succulents are not suited to colder climates that sometimes occur in mountainous regions, gardeners in these areas must keep these plants indoors during winter.
10. Avoid ornate pots
Correct drainage and preventing water storage is vital for succulents, so ornate plant pots with no holes at the bottom can cause problems. Simple clay or plastic plant pots allow better drainage than glass or metal.
1. Use the sun
Succulents may be hardy, but they still like plenty of sunshine because they are desert plants. Gardeners should always place succulents on a sun porch or in a greenhouse so that the plants get plenty of natural light. If growing them indoors, succulents should be placed as close to a large window as possible, and ideally one that faces the direction that the sun rises for maximise exposure.
2. Take succulents outside
A lack of sunlight is the biggest threat to plants, including succulents. If gardeners want to grow succulents indoors but find that an acceptable level of sunlight is not reaching the plants, they should simply move them outside for a couple of days each week. This helps succulents to reach their full potential.
3. Give succulents some space
As sunlight is so important to succulents, allowing the plants ample breathing space is an essential part of ensuring that they remain healthy. It is important to move succulents if there is any danger that other plants may block precious sunlight. Placing succulents in a separate area is another solution.
4. Ease off pruning
Succulents grow slowly and many never require any pruning. Gardeners should allow their plants to grow naturally and use secateurs only when absolutely necessary. For example, when space is at a premium and the foliage from one succulent prevents sunlight from reaching another plant.
5. Put down the watering can
Contrary to popular belief, succulents need no more water than other plants and often require less than others that are popular in temperate climates. They have thick stems and leaves that store water efficiently, which is why they often need less frequent watering. In general, gardeners should water succulents when the plants are visibly dry.
6. Pay attention to drainage and fertilizer
The soil that works best for many plants is not always best for succulents, which thrive in porous soil that drains quickly and easily. Mixing ordinary healthy soil with sand at a ratio of around 30/70 ensures that the soil around the plant does not store too much water. Succulents also require less fertilizer than many other plants. A low-balanced soluble fertilizer delivered at half or a quarter of the quantity for ordinary plants is sufficient.
7. Choose green succulents
Succulents often prove to be a challenge for new gardeners, so it is always best to start by growing green succulents, such as cacti, Agave, or Aloe plants. These are some of the hardiest varieties and do well indoors if placed next to a large window.
8. Kill pests
As with all plants, bugs and pests can damage succulents quickly. Gardeners must check plants for insect infestation thoroughly and regularly, and get rid of pests as quickly as possible. Watering sparingly is a good way to avoid gnats. A natural pesticide that is not harmful to houseplants is also beneficial.
9. Keep succulents warm
Succulents are easy to maintain and tolerant to drought, but healthy succulents do not survive even a light frost. As succulents are not suited to colder climates that sometimes occur in mountainous regions, gardeners in these areas must keep these plants indoors during winter.
10. Avoid ornate pots
Correct drainage and preventing water storage is vital for succulents, so ornate plant pots with no holes at the bottom can cause problems. Simple clay or plastic plant pots allow better drainage than glass or metal.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
With plants, as with people, there are savers and there are spenders. Where water is the currency, succulents are the thriftiest of their kind, their fleshy leaves hoarding water for times of drought. This built-in resiliency makes them a perfect choice for problem places in the yard: patio containers set in blazing sun, windy spots that make roses wither, rocky slopes where grass won’t grow. Gardeners in the arid West have been using succulents in water-thrifty xeriscapes for years. Now more nurseries across the country are carrying these intriguing plants, some of which grow well even in damp or cold climates.
John Spain, a Connecticut-based gardening expert who pioneered ways of growing succulents outdoors in the frozen north, discovered their advantages years ago, when he often traveled for business. “The only plants that survived without any care in my makeshift greenhouse were the succulents and cacti,” he says. “I would leave for a month, and they’d be fine.” That sent him searching for more cold-hardy succulents. He found enough to fill a 20-foot (6 m)-long berm with a carpetlike tapestry of leaves in green, chartreuse, rose, purple, and even nearly black. Today he also tucks succulents among alpine plants in his 2,000-square-foot rock garden.
A Size and Shape for Every Situation
At least 60 plant families have some succulent species. The adaptations that these plants have made to hold on to moisture make them especially interesting garden specimens. Ground-hugging rosettes pack water into thick, pointed leaves that hybridizers have edged with ribbons of color or rose-petal-like frills. Some species have a swollen stem known as a caudex that serves as a water storage tank. Others resemble cacti, complete with ridged stems and spiky thorns.
Among the most familiar succulents are Sedums, including that perennial favorite Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy,’ which grows 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) tall and bears dramatic rosy-red flower heads in late summer. Another Sedum, Two-Row Stonecrop (Sedum spurium) is a low-maintenance groundcover with fine foliage and white, pink, or purple flowers in summer. Low-growing Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’ has yellow blooms.
Another groundcover, Ice Plant (Delosperma spp.) has tiny, fingerlike fleshy leaves and blooms in full sun with masses of daisylike flowers all summer. Delosperma nubigenum is a noninvasive type that bears yellow blooms.
Hens and Chicks—the common name for the similar-looking but unrelated Echeveria x imbricata and the more cold-hardy Sempervivum tectorum—is a longtime favorite for containers, rock gardens, and growing in the crevices of stone walls. Sempervivum‘s ground-hugging rosettes can be green, red, chartreuse, or purple to silvery blue in color. Echeverias come in rose, green, gray, and mauve, often with a contrasting edge color or a stripe. Both multiply without much effort, sending out shoots with their progeny attached; these may root on their own if they are in contact with soil. Otherwise, they can easily be detached and rooted.
Desert-loving Yuccas, Agaves, and Aloes, with their swordlike and strappy leaves with sharp tips, add a sculptural element to any garden. Though these large-scale specimen plants have long been associated with the dry Southwest, there are hardy varieties that withstand below-freezing temperatures.
That indoor classic, the treelike Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), is another favorite for outdoor containers—though it is not hardy in cold climates. In the same family, Baby Becklace (Crassula rupestris x perforata) looks like a string of beads or buttons.
The lesser-known, multistemmed Aeoniums bear striking rosettes, sometimes variegated, in shades of green, red, and blackish purple, at the ends of their branches. Equally good as container and garden specimens, these generally grow 18 inches to 3 feet (45 to 90 cm) tall and 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 cm) wide. They don’t tolerate freezing temperatures, however, so they need to winter indoors in cold climates.
Planting and Care
Although succulents generally require minimal care, most have one need that is absolute: good drainage. Many have shallow roots that spread out so they can take advantage of even brief rainstorms. But the roots succumb to disease if they stay damp.
The right soil depends on rainfall where you live. In desert areas, some succulents grow even in clay. In wetter climates, though, mix sand and airy lava rock into the planting area. Dig holes only as big as the nursery containers or even a little less deep, so that the plant crowns don’t settle below the surface. Mulch with pea gravel to keep surface moisture to a minimum. For containers, mix two-thirds gravel or lava rock and one-third loam if you live where there is a lot of rain. In a dry climate, reverse the proportions.
Most important, don’t overwater. Though container plantings need more water than those settled into the ground, probe the soil to be sure it is thoroughly dried out before watering. And always empty any standing water from saucers. In garden areas, feel the soil 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) below the surface to make sure it’s thoroughly dry before giving plants a good dousing.
Occasional rainfall may mean you’ll only need to water succulent plantings now and then, even during the sultriest weeks of the year. That’s when you may really appreciate the savings bonus these plants offer—not just the lower water bill, but the extra hours freed up from coddling your summer garden.
John Spain, a Connecticut-based gardening expert who pioneered ways of growing succulents outdoors in the frozen north, discovered their advantages years ago, when he often traveled for business. “The only plants that survived without any care in my makeshift greenhouse were the succulents and cacti,” he says. “I would leave for a month, and they’d be fine.” That sent him searching for more cold-hardy succulents. He found enough to fill a 20-foot (6 m)-long berm with a carpetlike tapestry of leaves in green, chartreuse, rose, purple, and even nearly black. Today he also tucks succulents among alpine plants in his 2,000-square-foot rock garden.
A Size and Shape for Every Situation
At least 60 plant families have some succulent species. The adaptations that these plants have made to hold on to moisture make them especially interesting garden specimens. Ground-hugging rosettes pack water into thick, pointed leaves that hybridizers have edged with ribbons of color or rose-petal-like frills. Some species have a swollen stem known as a caudex that serves as a water storage tank. Others resemble cacti, complete with ridged stems and spiky thorns.
Among the most familiar succulents are Sedums, including that perennial favorite Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy,’ which grows 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) tall and bears dramatic rosy-red flower heads in late summer. Another Sedum, Two-Row Stonecrop (Sedum spurium) is a low-maintenance groundcover with fine foliage and white, pink, or purple flowers in summer. Low-growing Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’ has yellow blooms.
Another groundcover, Ice Plant (Delosperma spp.) has tiny, fingerlike fleshy leaves and blooms in full sun with masses of daisylike flowers all summer. Delosperma nubigenum is a noninvasive type that bears yellow blooms.
Hens and Chicks—the common name for the similar-looking but unrelated Echeveria x imbricata and the more cold-hardy Sempervivum tectorum—is a longtime favorite for containers, rock gardens, and growing in the crevices of stone walls. Sempervivum‘s ground-hugging rosettes can be green, red, chartreuse, or purple to silvery blue in color. Echeverias come in rose, green, gray, and mauve, often with a contrasting edge color or a stripe. Both multiply without much effort, sending out shoots with their progeny attached; these may root on their own if they are in contact with soil. Otherwise, they can easily be detached and rooted.
Desert-loving Yuccas, Agaves, and Aloes, with their swordlike and strappy leaves with sharp tips, add a sculptural element to any garden. Though these large-scale specimen plants have long been associated with the dry Southwest, there are hardy varieties that withstand below-freezing temperatures.
That indoor classic, the treelike Jade Plant (Crassula ovata), is another favorite for outdoor containers—though it is not hardy in cold climates. In the same family, Baby Becklace (Crassula rupestris x perforata) looks like a string of beads or buttons.
The lesser-known, multistemmed Aeoniums bear striking rosettes, sometimes variegated, in shades of green, red, and blackish purple, at the ends of their branches. Equally good as container and garden specimens, these generally grow 18 inches to 3 feet (45 to 90 cm) tall and 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 cm) wide. They don’t tolerate freezing temperatures, however, so they need to winter indoors in cold climates.
Planting and Care
Although succulents generally require minimal care, most have one need that is absolute: good drainage. Many have shallow roots that spread out so they can take advantage of even brief rainstorms. But the roots succumb to disease if they stay damp.
The right soil depends on rainfall where you live. In desert areas, some succulents grow even in clay. In wetter climates, though, mix sand and airy lava rock into the planting area. Dig holes only as big as the nursery containers or even a little less deep, so that the plant crowns don’t settle below the surface. Mulch with pea gravel to keep surface moisture to a minimum. For containers, mix two-thirds gravel or lava rock and one-third loam if you live where there is a lot of rain. In a dry climate, reverse the proportions.
Most important, don’t overwater. Though container plantings need more water than those settled into the ground, probe the soil to be sure it is thoroughly dried out before watering. And always empty any standing water from saucers. In garden areas, feel the soil 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) below the surface to make sure it’s thoroughly dry before giving plants a good dousing.
Occasional rainfall may mean you’ll only need to water succulent plantings now and then, even during the sultriest weeks of the year. That’s when you may really appreciate the savings bonus these plants offer—not just the lower water bill, but the extra hours freed up from coddling your summer garden.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Go with Compatible Plants
Succulents either grow in the cool or warm seasons. Some grow in October until April when they go dormant. Warm season plants go dormant in October.
Choose the Right Container
Plants with shallow roots or that tend to rot faster do best in low or unglazed containers. Plants with leggy roots or those that require more water thrive in deep containers made of glazed, ceramic, fiberglass or plaster. In “The Plant Recipe Book”, Baylor Chapman has created an easy-to-follow, illustrated guide to creating succulent arrangements at home. She puts succulents in wood frames and boxes, logs and metal vessels, glass cylinders and handmade pottery.
Soil Aeration and Drainage
Bagged cactus mix sold at stores can be too organically rich for most plants so add extra pumice, says Matt Maggio, who creates succulent installations and container gardens for private clients and at Sherman Library and Gardens in Corona del Mar. He recommends two parts cactus mix for every one part pumice.
Matt Maggio’s all-purpose soil recipe: 50-60 percent pumic, 30 percent core (a lightweight substance made of ground coconut husks, which holds moisture and nutrients) and 10-20 percent humus.
Top Covering isn’t Just for Looks
Finishing the surface off with rocks can help control weeds and moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Lining the inside of the pot with bubble wrap helps insulate the plant from excessive heat, which can cause root dieback.
A Break from Mid-Day Sun
In nature, succulents often escape the elements by hiding in the shade of larger plants or rock crevices. So offer your succulent afternoon shade.
Watering Schedule will Vary
Water only during the growing season. “I don’t like to keep the mix wet all the time — you want to let the surface dry out a little bit before you water again”, Maggio says. “Conversely, you don’t want it to get bone dry or you’ll stress the plant. When a plant is water-stressed, it’s going to be dull looking, soft and malleable. When it’s well watered, it’s going to be plump, shiny and firm”.
Succulents either grow in the cool or warm seasons. Some grow in October until April when they go dormant. Warm season plants go dormant in October.
Choose the Right Container
Plants with shallow roots or that tend to rot faster do best in low or unglazed containers. Plants with leggy roots or those that require more water thrive in deep containers made of glazed, ceramic, fiberglass or plaster. In “The Plant Recipe Book”, Baylor Chapman has created an easy-to-follow, illustrated guide to creating succulent arrangements at home. She puts succulents in wood frames and boxes, logs and metal vessels, glass cylinders and handmade pottery.
Soil Aeration and Drainage
Bagged cactus mix sold at stores can be too organically rich for most plants so add extra pumice, says Matt Maggio, who creates succulent installations and container gardens for private clients and at Sherman Library and Gardens in Corona del Mar. He recommends two parts cactus mix for every one part pumice.
Matt Maggio’s all-purpose soil recipe: 50-60 percent pumic, 30 percent core (a lightweight substance made of ground coconut husks, which holds moisture and nutrients) and 10-20 percent humus.
Top Covering isn’t Just for Looks
Finishing the surface off with rocks can help control weeds and moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Lining the inside of the pot with bubble wrap helps insulate the plant from excessive heat, which can cause root dieback.
A Break from Mid-Day Sun
In nature, succulents often escape the elements by hiding in the shade of larger plants or rock crevices. So offer your succulent afternoon shade.
Watering Schedule will Vary
Water only during the growing season. “I don’t like to keep the mix wet all the time — you want to let the surface dry out a little bit before you water again”, Maggio says. “Conversely, you don’t want it to get bone dry or you’ll stress the plant. When a plant is water-stressed, it’s going to be dull looking, soft and malleable. When it’s well watered, it’s going to be plump, shiny and firm”.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The plants listed below are generally reliable and of easy culture, as long as you remember that no succulent plant likes to have prolonged moist soil; the potting mix should allow good drainage. Also, most succulents like quite bright light — they are not shade-loving plants. Those on this list are mostly smaller species that live amongst rocks or under other plants in nature, and therefore can tolerate somewhat lower lighting conditions.
There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners.
All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti
Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia.
Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth.
Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced.
Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months.
Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time.
Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus.
Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents
Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter.
Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors.
Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors.
Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration.
Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar.
Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers.
Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group.
Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants.
Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves.
Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant.
In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together.
“Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners.
All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti
Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia.
Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth.
Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced.
Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months.
Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time.
Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus.
Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents
Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter.
Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors.
Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors.
Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration.
Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar.
Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers.
Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group.
Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants.
Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves.
Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant.
In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together.
“Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Stapelia comprises a challenging and rewarding group of some 50 species of clump-forming stem succulents from southern Africa. The leafless four-angled stems have toothed edges and may be pubescent. Stems grow erect, branching mainly from the base, and may develop a reddish colour in strong sunlight.
Stapelia have unusual, often large five-lobed flowers, which may be red, purple or yellow, often with interesting banded patterns. The surface can be brightly polished or matted with hairs, and most species produce a putrid odour of rotting carrion to attract blow flies as pollinators. This explains their popular name of “Carrion Flowers”. Stapelia erectiflora and Stapelia flavopurpurea have sweetly scented flowers.
The genus Stapelia was historically merged with Orbea. Leach (1975) re-separated Orbea into its own genus.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Several species are fairly easy to grow and Stapelia (Orbea) variegata is a well known cottage windowsill plant. Others, often those with slightly hairy stems and the more unusual flowers, are more challenging and require careful watering (with some fertilizer) during the growing season and complete withdrawal of water during the winter months. A minimum winter temperature of 10°C (50°CF) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry. A heated growing bench or incubator may help delicate plants to get through the colder months. However, many species live under shrubs in habitat and prefer light shade rather than full sun.
A gritty compost is essential, and clay pots are advisable for the more delicate species. Some growers prefer a mineral-only compost to minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems.
Keeping Stapelias and their roots free of pests such as mealy bugs is the real key to success as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. Watering with a good systemic insecticide such as those based on imidachloprid should help to keep plants healthy.
Stapelia have unusual, often large five-lobed flowers, which may be red, purple or yellow, often with interesting banded patterns. The surface can be brightly polished or matted with hairs, and most species produce a putrid odour of rotting carrion to attract blow flies as pollinators. This explains their popular name of “Carrion Flowers”. Stapelia erectiflora and Stapelia flavopurpurea have sweetly scented flowers.
The genus Stapelia was historically merged with Orbea. Leach (1975) re-separated Orbea into its own genus.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Several species are fairly easy to grow and Stapelia (Orbea) variegata is a well known cottage windowsill plant. Others, often those with slightly hairy stems and the more unusual flowers, are more challenging and require careful watering (with some fertilizer) during the growing season and complete withdrawal of water during the winter months. A minimum winter temperature of 10°C (50°CF) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry. A heated growing bench or incubator may help delicate plants to get through the colder months. However, many species live under shrubs in habitat and prefer light shade rather than full sun.
A gritty compost is essential, and clay pots are advisable for the more delicate species. Some growers prefer a mineral-only compost to minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems.
Keeping Stapelias and their roots free of pests such as mealy bugs is the real key to success as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. Watering with a good systemic insecticide such as those based on imidachloprid should help to keep plants healthy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Titanopsis is a small genus of dwarf succulents from the family of Aizoaceae. Naturally growing in the Upper Karoo in South Africa, it is an attractive but quite unusual plant because of its formation. The plant grows as a dwarf succulent and produces thick truncated leaves that have crumpled surface. These unusual leaves display all the hues of red, purple, green, cream and blue throughout the year. Flowers appear in late fall and winter. Like its cousins in the Aizoaceae family, Titanopsis produces small daisy-like flowers of yellow color.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
The best place to grow T. calcarea – the more popular species from the eastern areas is a sunny spot where it gets bright sunlight in summer and direct exposure to the sun in winter. Other popular species of Titanopsis include: T. fulleri and T. primosii.
Propagation
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
The best place to grow T. calcarea – the more popular species from the eastern areas is a sunny spot where it gets bright sunlight in summer and direct exposure to the sun in winter. Other popular species of Titanopsis include: T. fulleri and T. primosii.
Propagation
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Cotyledon is a genus of 10 species of perennial shrubby leaf and stem succulents with numerous varieties and cultivars. Mostly from Southern Africa, they also occur throughout the drier parts of Africa as far north as the Arabian peninsula. Cotyledon has been a catch-all genus including species from Echeveria, Rosularia, Tylecodon and Umbilicus, now all grouped separately. Tölken (1978) separated 47 species of Tylecodon with seasonal, spirally-arranged leaves from Cotyledon with perennial leaves. The name Tylecodon is an angram of Cotyledon.
Members of the genus are shrublets, generally succulent, with fleshily woody, brittle stems and persistent succulent leaves. The leaves are opposite. Leaf pairs generally are oriented at 90 degrees to their preceding and following pairs, as is common in the family Crassulaceae, but the leaf habit differs. They are varied in appearance but all have tubular flowers with curled tips that are typically coloured orange or coral pink. They flower mostly in summer.
Cotyledons generally colonise rocky ground and cliff faces, a clue that they appreciate well-drained conditions in cultivation. The fleshy leaves of some species (C. ladismithiensis) are slightly pubescent or farinose (C. orbiculata). The orange flowers of Adromischus phillipsiae are similar to those of Cotyledon, with which it was once grouped. These plants should be regarded as poisonous as the closely related Tylecodons.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Cotyledons can be divided into two groups. One group consists of evergreen plants with a summer growing period. The other group is made up of deciduous plants, splendidly magnificent with large, solid fleshy stems like C. paniculata. The second group grows during the winter, and sheds its leaves during the summer.
Cotyledons require a free-draining gritty mix and plenty of sun. They are tolerant of cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. Some require pruning to maintain an attractive shape.
Cotyledons should be kept in a sunny position. Follow general succulent watering procedures. Be careful of over-watering when Cotyledons are deciduous.
As succulents go, Cotyledons certainly are rewarding garden and indoor subjects, practically independent of irrigation in all but full desert conditions, though they cannot survive poor light or bad drainage in the wet.
Feed it once or twice during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (poor in nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label.
Though not spectacular, they are elegantly decorative and often interesting in shape. The inflorescences of the larger species often make fine components of dried arrangements in floral design.
Pests and Problems
Their main enemies are sucking bugs.
Members of the genus are shrublets, generally succulent, with fleshily woody, brittle stems and persistent succulent leaves. The leaves are opposite. Leaf pairs generally are oriented at 90 degrees to their preceding and following pairs, as is common in the family Crassulaceae, but the leaf habit differs. They are varied in appearance but all have tubular flowers with curled tips that are typically coloured orange or coral pink. They flower mostly in summer.
Cotyledons generally colonise rocky ground and cliff faces, a clue that they appreciate well-drained conditions in cultivation. The fleshy leaves of some species (C. ladismithiensis) are slightly pubescent or farinose (C. orbiculata). The orange flowers of Adromischus phillipsiae are similar to those of Cotyledon, with which it was once grouped. These plants should be regarded as poisonous as the closely related Tylecodons.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Cotyledons can be divided into two groups. One group consists of evergreen plants with a summer growing period. The other group is made up of deciduous plants, splendidly magnificent with large, solid fleshy stems like C. paniculata. The second group grows during the winter, and sheds its leaves during the summer.
Cotyledons require a free-draining gritty mix and plenty of sun. They are tolerant of cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. Some require pruning to maintain an attractive shape.
Cotyledons should be kept in a sunny position. Follow general succulent watering procedures. Be careful of over-watering when Cotyledons are deciduous.
As succulents go, Cotyledons certainly are rewarding garden and indoor subjects, practically independent of irrigation in all but full desert conditions, though they cannot survive poor light or bad drainage in the wet.
Feed it once or twice during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (poor in nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label.
Though not spectacular, they are elegantly decorative and often interesting in shape. The inflorescences of the larger species often make fine components of dried arrangements in floral design.
Pests and Problems
Their main enemies are sucking bugs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Adromischus is a genus of at least 28 species of small clumping leaf succulents from South Africa. Prior to revision of the genus by Tölken a larger number of species were recognised. Many of these older names are currently regarded as synonymous with a range of forms combined into a smaller number of somewhat variable species. Adromischus marianae is particularly variable across its range, reflecting combination of plants with markedly different appearance into a single species. Some natural hybrids are known.
The attractively marked and coloured leaves of many species appeal to collectors but require high light levels for the different colours to be seen to full advantage. In shade most species adopt a similar green colour. As the plants age, some elongate losing leaves lower down their thickened stems. Opinions vary as to the merits of mature plants compared with smaller ones.
Adromischus flowers are generally small, with a greenish-white tube and pink or reddish corolla and produce sufficient nectar to start a fungal infection, especially towards the end of the growing season. As the flowers are not showy, many growers cut off the developing flower stems to avoid botrytis. The only species worth growing for its flowers is Adromischus phillipsiae, which has relatively large showy orange tubular flowers, reminiscent of flowers of Cotyledons to which Adromischus is closely related and with which it was once grouped.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Many species are easy to grow in any free-draining gritty compost. Their compact habit allows a collection to be maintained in a small space and they grow well on any sunny window ledge or the top shelf of the greenhouse. Water mostly in spring/autumn and let them dry out between waterings. Adromischus tolerate cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. It is as well to keep water off the foliage during the winter. Mealy bugs and vine weevils can be discouraged with a systemic insecticide. Frost hardy to 19 °F (-7 °C).
Propagation
Many species can be propagated from a single leaf, which should be placed against the side of the pot so that the stem end is just touching the compost. Some species drop their leaves easily and although each leaf will form a new plant it can be a challenge to grow a large specimen. In other cases, leaves for propagation must be carefully detached with a sharp knife. Adromischus phillipsiae is easier to propagate from stem cuttings than from individual leaves.
The attractively marked and coloured leaves of many species appeal to collectors but require high light levels for the different colours to be seen to full advantage. In shade most species adopt a similar green colour. As the plants age, some elongate losing leaves lower down their thickened stems. Opinions vary as to the merits of mature plants compared with smaller ones.
Adromischus flowers are generally small, with a greenish-white tube and pink or reddish corolla and produce sufficient nectar to start a fungal infection, especially towards the end of the growing season. As the flowers are not showy, many growers cut off the developing flower stems to avoid botrytis. The only species worth growing for its flowers is Adromischus phillipsiae, which has relatively large showy orange tubular flowers, reminiscent of flowers of Cotyledons to which Adromischus is closely related and with which it was once grouped.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Many species are easy to grow in any free-draining gritty compost. Their compact habit allows a collection to be maintained in a small space and they grow well on any sunny window ledge or the top shelf of the greenhouse. Water mostly in spring/autumn and let them dry out between waterings. Adromischus tolerate cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. It is as well to keep water off the foliage during the winter. Mealy bugs and vine weevils can be discouraged with a systemic insecticide. Frost hardy to 19 °F (-7 °C).
Propagation
Many species can be propagated from a single leaf, which should be placed against the side of the pot so that the stem end is just touching the compost. Some species drop their leaves easily and although each leaf will form a new plant it can be a challenge to grow a large specimen. In other cases, leaves for propagation must be carefully detached with a sharp knife. Adromischus phillipsiae is easier to propagate from stem cuttings than from individual leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dinteranthus are a group of stemless succulents from the Cape Province in South Africa, close to the Orange river where they get mostly summer rain. They are mesembs, and resemble those genera within the Aizoaceae family to which they are most closely related; namely Lithops, Lapidaria and Schwantesia, although they require even less water and have a distinctive keel along the lower leaf surface. They are named for the professor K. Dinter, Dinteranthus meaning “Dinter’s Flower”.
The leaf pairs are separated by a deep cleft from which the flower arises. The plants are popular among collectors. Dinteranthus need excellent drainage and a good deal of light. They should be treated like Lithops, though they require less water. They have yellow flowers in the fall. After they bloom, a new pair of leaves develop, used the moisture from the older pair of leaves to grow. The plants should not be watered until the old pair of leaves is totally shriveled. They will take a small amount of frost.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Adult plants of this genus behave like Lithops: summer expansion leading to flowering in fall, followed by a slow transfer of resources in winter; the main difference is that the presence of two active leaf-pairs is not unusual in some Dinteranthus. Dinteranthus require slightly less water than do most Lithops. Excellent drainage is essential, as all Dinteranthus are somewhat prone to rot, Dinteranthus microspermus subsp. puberulus being the most resistant of the six taxa. Their nutritive requirements are amazingly modest and the root systems of even the healthiest plants are minuscule. What they need most critically is good light, which will give them a bone-white aspect. Older long-stemmed plants can and usually should be turned into cuttings and re-rooted.
Propagation
The real trouble with Dinteranthus is that the seedlings are so tiny that they are apt to damp off. But if the following rules are observed, success is likely. Sow in high summer; use sterilized soil with extra grit and enough peat to ensure high acidity; do not cover the seeds. Place the sown pot in a water bath, cover the whole assemblage with clear plastic and place it outdoors in a bright spot. Wait three full days, remove the pots to your usual place of germination and mist them at least twice a day. Seedlings should be evident within twelve days of sowing; they are extremely small at first and resemble green crystalline raspberries. The object is to induce them to grow as rapidly as possible. If this takes daily mist-feeding, then do it. By mid-autumn the cotyledons should turn greyish-white from a calcium deposition which strengthens them. After this whitening the fissure walls part and the true leaves are visible through the resultant peephole. Thereafter you are home free: treat the seedlings like young Lithops. Delay transplanting until the second set of true leaves is fully formed.
The leaf pairs are separated by a deep cleft from which the flower arises. The plants are popular among collectors. Dinteranthus need excellent drainage and a good deal of light. They should be treated like Lithops, though they require less water. They have yellow flowers in the fall. After they bloom, a new pair of leaves develop, used the moisture from the older pair of leaves to grow. The plants should not be watered until the old pair of leaves is totally shriveled. They will take a small amount of frost.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Adult plants of this genus behave like Lithops: summer expansion leading to flowering in fall, followed by a slow transfer of resources in winter; the main difference is that the presence of two active leaf-pairs is not unusual in some Dinteranthus. Dinteranthus require slightly less water than do most Lithops. Excellent drainage is essential, as all Dinteranthus are somewhat prone to rot, Dinteranthus microspermus subsp. puberulus being the most resistant of the six taxa. Their nutritive requirements are amazingly modest and the root systems of even the healthiest plants are minuscule. What they need most critically is good light, which will give them a bone-white aspect. Older long-stemmed plants can and usually should be turned into cuttings and re-rooted.
Propagation
The real trouble with Dinteranthus is that the seedlings are so tiny that they are apt to damp off. But if the following rules are observed, success is likely. Sow in high summer; use sterilized soil with extra grit and enough peat to ensure high acidity; do not cover the seeds. Place the sown pot in a water bath, cover the whole assemblage with clear plastic and place it outdoors in a bright spot. Wait three full days, remove the pots to your usual place of germination and mist them at least twice a day. Seedlings should be evident within twelve days of sowing; they are extremely small at first and resemble green crystalline raspberries. The object is to induce them to grow as rapidly as possible. If this takes daily mist-feeding, then do it. By mid-autumn the cotyledons should turn greyish-white from a calcium deposition which strengthens them. After this whitening the fissure walls part and the true leaves are visible through the resultant peephole. Thereafter you are home free: treat the seedlings like young Lithops. Delay transplanting until the second set of true leaves is fully formed.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Plants are a quick, inexpensive, and easy way to add something pretty and alive to your space. An indoor succulent garden fits the bill for all these things. Succulents go for a couple dollars a pop at your local nursery or home improvement store, and they are built to survive in the harshest of conditions — perfect for those who tend to forget the watering chore or who don’t have a green thumb.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are booming in popularity for two simple reasons: they are beautiful and nearly indestructible.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the Aloe and Agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
No matter what kind of succulent you’re growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40 ºF (4 ºC). Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 ºF (21 ºC) and about 85 ºF (30 ºC) and nighttime temperatures between 50 ºF (10 ºC) and 55 ºF (13 ºC).
Water
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soils
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you don’t have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
Technically, a succulent is any plant with thick, fleshy (succulent) water storage organs. Succulents store water in their leaves, their stems or their roots. These plants have adapted to survive arid conditions throughout the world, from Africa to the deserts of North America. Fortunately for us, this adaptive mechanism has resulted in an incredible variety of interesting leaf forms and plant shapes, including paddle leaves, tight rosettes, and bushy or trailing columns of teardrop leaves.
As a group, succulents include some of the most well-known plants, such as the Aloe and Agave, and many almost unknown plants. Cacti are a unique subset of the succulent group. Succulents make excellent display plants in dish gardens.
No matter what kind of succulent you’re growing, the rules are pretty similar between the different species. Here are the general rules for growing top-quality succulents:
Light
Succulents prefer bright light, such as found on a south-facing window. Watch the leaves for indications that the light level is correct. Some species will scorch if suddenly exposed to direct sunlight. The leaves will turn brown or white as the plant bleaches out and the soft tissues are destroyed. Alternatively, an underlit succulent will begin to stretch, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves. This condition is known as etoliation. The solution is to provide better light and prune the plant back to its original shape. Many kinds of succulents will thrive outdoors in the summer.
Temperature
Succulents are much more cold-tolerant than many people assume. As in the desert, where there is often a marked contrast between night and day, succulents thrive in colder nights, down to even 40 ºF (4 ºC). Ideally, succulents prefer daytime temperatures between 70 ºF (21 ºC) and about 85 ºF (30 ºC) and nighttime temperatures between 50 ºF (10 ºC) and 55 ºF (13 ºC).
Water
Succulents should be watered generously in the summer. The potting mix should be allowed to dry between waterings, but do not underwater. During the winter, when the plants go dormant, cut watering back to once every other month. Overwatering and ensuing plant rot is the single most common cause of plant failure. Be aware, though, that an overwatered succulent might at first plump up and look very healthy. However, the cause of death may have already set in underground, with rot spreading upward from the root system. A succulent should never be allowed to sit in water. The following are signs of under- or overwatering:
Overwatering. Overwatered plants are soft and discolored. The leaves may be yellow or white and lose their color. A plant in this condition may be beyond repair, but you can still remove it from its pot and inspect the roots. If they are brown and rotted, cut away dead roots and repot into drier potting media, or take a cutting and propagate the parent plant.
Underwatering: Succulents prefer generous water during the growing season (spring and summer). An underwatered plant will first stop growing, then begin to shed leaves. Alternatively, the plant may develop brown spots on the leaves.
Potting Soils
Succulents should be potted in a fast-draining mixture that’s designed for cacti and succulents. If you don’t have access to a specialized mix, considering modifying a normal potting mix with an inorganic agent like perlite to increase aeration and drainage. These plants generally have shallow roots that form a dense mat just under the soil surface.
Fertilizer
During the summer growing season, fertilizer as you would with other houseplants. Stop fertilizing entirely during the winter.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Summer can be an ideal season in many of our gardens. However, even the hardiest, drought tolerant plants – including succulents – will benefit greatly from a small amount of added care in the hot days ahead.
Whether your succulents are in containers or in the ground, here are some summer care tips and techniques to help keep your collection looking its best all season long.
Watering
The majority of succulents are NOT desert plants. Almost all need some water year round. In general, water in-ground plants every 10 days to two weeks. More frequent watering is needed for container-planted succulents. The smaller the container, the more frequent the need for water. Succulents in the 2-inch (5 cm) pots found in many nurseries need water almost every other day. In general, based on the container size and its location, water container succulent gardens once a week.
Remember that black plastic nursery pots significantly increase heat around the plant’s root zone and the need for water. That’s why it’s wise to remove your succulents from those containers and plant them into the ground or a more hospitable container.
Water early in the day to allow the plants to dry off to prevent rotting and sunburn. (More on both below.) And never allow succulent containers to sit in water.
Sun Exposure
Because most are NOT desert plants, succulents in containers will not appreciate a south-facing location in direct summer sun, especially if your garden is in an inland microclimate. When shopping for succulents at a nursery, you’ll notice that most are displayed under light shade cloth. At home, locate container succulents in dappled shade on south and west-facing exposures and in full sun on north and east exposures. Remember, plants in the sunniest areas will require a bit more water.
If you do plan on putting succulents in an area that receives strong summer sun, be sure to acclimatize them gradually or else the leaves will sunburn. These large white, brown or black patches of sunburn cannot be reversed.
If plants start to ‘stretch’ out towards the sun and become leggy, they likely need more sun than they are getting. Move them if possible to a sunnier site.
Rosette-form succulents like Aeoniums and Echeverias that become leggy can be “beheaded” now to allow propagation of the head possible new growth of plants along the stem. Suspend the cut head on the edges of an empty flower pot, stem side down, put it in a shady spot and in a few weeks, you will see tiny root hairs on the stem. Then just plant in a good quality succulent mix.
Pests
Succulents are bothered by few pests, but those can be annoying, unsightly and sometimes destructive. Among the most common are mites, mealy bugs, snails, birds and rodents. Birds and rodents find healthy succulents to be a good source of water especially during very dry periods. Snails love the tender new growth. These pests can be deterred by exclusion or repellants. Bird netting is a good choice if the majority of your plants are in one area.
Mealy bugs are the most common succulent pest. They resemble small white fluff balls, sometimes under the pot rim or at the base of the plants. They can be hosed them off, manually removed, or killed with an application of insecticidal soap. Also, check plant roots as there are root mealy bugs too.
Distorted leaves may mean a plant is infested with spider mites, the second most common pest of succulents.
Some Good Things to Know
Keep the area around succulents, especially rosette forms, free of built up mulch, leaf debris and anything that might hold moisture next to the base of the plant. A wet crown will lead to rotting and also attract snails. Overwatering also can cause rotting, especially if there’s a series of cloudy cool days.
Warmer weather causes rapid evaporation. Check your container plants for white salts buildup on the sides and bottoms of pots. Remove it with a brush.
Most succulents do well inside during the summer; just don’t put them too close to a window that gets a lot of sun. Water only when the soil is dry.
“Low care” doesn’t mean “no care”. Check on the condition of your succulents regularly to prevent or correct many of the things that keep them from looking their best.
Some succulents are winter growers and may appear ailing or dead during summer months when they are dormant. Winter growers include Senecios, Kalanchoes and Dudleyas. Avoid excessive watering for these three – especially California native Dudleyas. For the majority of the succulent family, early summer is a good time to take cuttings and start propagation. Many varieties will come into flower and hummingbirds are attracted to their tubular shaped blossoms.
Whether your succulents are in containers or in the ground, here are some summer care tips and techniques to help keep your collection looking its best all season long.
Watering
The majority of succulents are NOT desert plants. Almost all need some water year round. In general, water in-ground plants every 10 days to two weeks. More frequent watering is needed for container-planted succulents. The smaller the container, the more frequent the need for water. Succulents in the 2-inch (5 cm) pots found in many nurseries need water almost every other day. In general, based on the container size and its location, water container succulent gardens once a week.
Remember that black plastic nursery pots significantly increase heat around the plant’s root zone and the need for water. That’s why it’s wise to remove your succulents from those containers and plant them into the ground or a more hospitable container.
Water early in the day to allow the plants to dry off to prevent rotting and sunburn. (More on both below.) And never allow succulent containers to sit in water.
Sun Exposure
Because most are NOT desert plants, succulents in containers will not appreciate a south-facing location in direct summer sun, especially if your garden is in an inland microclimate. When shopping for succulents at a nursery, you’ll notice that most are displayed under light shade cloth. At home, locate container succulents in dappled shade on south and west-facing exposures and in full sun on north and east exposures. Remember, plants in the sunniest areas will require a bit more water.
If you do plan on putting succulents in an area that receives strong summer sun, be sure to acclimatize them gradually or else the leaves will sunburn. These large white, brown or black patches of sunburn cannot be reversed.
If plants start to ‘stretch’ out towards the sun and become leggy, they likely need more sun than they are getting. Move them if possible to a sunnier site.
Rosette-form succulents like Aeoniums and Echeverias that become leggy can be “beheaded” now to allow propagation of the head possible new growth of plants along the stem. Suspend the cut head on the edges of an empty flower pot, stem side down, put it in a shady spot and in a few weeks, you will see tiny root hairs on the stem. Then just plant in a good quality succulent mix.
Pests
Succulents are bothered by few pests, but those can be annoying, unsightly and sometimes destructive. Among the most common are mites, mealy bugs, snails, birds and rodents. Birds and rodents find healthy succulents to be a good source of water especially during very dry periods. Snails love the tender new growth. These pests can be deterred by exclusion or repellants. Bird netting is a good choice if the majority of your plants are in one area.
Mealy bugs are the most common succulent pest. They resemble small white fluff balls, sometimes under the pot rim or at the base of the plants. They can be hosed them off, manually removed, or killed with an application of insecticidal soap. Also, check plant roots as there are root mealy bugs too.
Distorted leaves may mean a plant is infested with spider mites, the second most common pest of succulents.
Some Good Things to Know
Keep the area around succulents, especially rosette forms, free of built up mulch, leaf debris and anything that might hold moisture next to the base of the plant. A wet crown will lead to rotting and also attract snails. Overwatering also can cause rotting, especially if there’s a series of cloudy cool days.
Warmer weather causes rapid evaporation. Check your container plants for white salts buildup on the sides and bottoms of pots. Remove it with a brush.
Most succulents do well inside during the summer; just don’t put them too close to a window that gets a lot of sun. Water only when the soil is dry.
“Low care” doesn’t mean “no care”. Check on the condition of your succulents regularly to prevent or correct many of the things that keep them from looking their best.
Some succulents are winter growers and may appear ailing or dead during summer months when they are dormant. Winter growers include Senecios, Kalanchoes and Dudleyas. Avoid excessive watering for these three – especially California native Dudleyas. For the majority of the succulent family, early summer is a good time to take cuttings and start propagation. Many varieties will come into flower and hummingbirds are attracted to their tubular shaped blossoms.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Are you dreaming about adding some window boxes to your home, but lack the time and patience to pamper persnickety flowers? In the last few years, succulents of every shape and size have made their way into gardens and homes across the country, with a few setting roots in window boxes on the shady sides of homes. If you’re looking for a low-care option for your window boxes, succulents may be the answer. These plants offer interesting textures for your inner designer to mix into endless combinations and the occasional flower stalks for an unexpected splash of color.
Growing Succulents in Containers
Succulents are very unlike other plants you have grown in the past, and unlike their cousins the cacti, they don’t generally tolerate bright, direct sunlight. Their ability to tolerate drought sets them apart from more standard nursery offerings. That’s not to say that they can live without water, though. This common myth has led a lot of beginning succulent gardeners down a road paved with disappointment. Most succulents prefer moderately lit, warm and well-draining locations – if you design your window boxes with these requirements in mind, you’ll soon be graced with happy, healthy succulents.
Choose a composite window box with lots of drainage holes – succulents will absolutely not tolerate wet feet! – and fill it with a commercial cactus medium. Avoid heavy, rich soil mixes, these will only increase the risk of disease and attract pests. If temperatures in your area dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius) for any significant amount of time, you may want to plan for smaller window boxes that can be brought indoors during the winter. Regardless of the size of your container, plan to water deeply once a week until October, when most succulents begin to go dormant.
Designing with Succulents
Slow-growing succulents can be packed tightly into window boxes for a very full look or spaced further apart with small stones or glass pebbles serving as a decorative mulch and doubling as anchors. Many people plant taller, larger succulents in the back of their window boxes and creeping succulents in the front to create a many layers of texture. Generously flowering creepers like Ice Plant and Moss Rose combine the texture of succulent foliage with bold flowers for a unique look as they spill over the edge of your boxes.
Although many gardeners like to mix it up, planting many different shapes, colors and sizes of succulents in the same window box, there is merit in a repeating pattern. Like tulips neatly arranged in a planter, a tidy row of Aeonium, Aloe, Echeveria or Pachyphytum can bring a sense of order to a more formal home or landscape.
Another neat trick is to arrange multiple levels of window boxes using stair risers for support. If you plant cascading succulents in the front of each box, a waterfall effect will eventually emerge to tie the many levels together visually. As long as your window box creations aren’t too wide to water properly, the sky’s the limit with succulents!
Growing Succulents in Containers
Succulents are very unlike other plants you have grown in the past, and unlike their cousins the cacti, they don’t generally tolerate bright, direct sunlight. Their ability to tolerate drought sets them apart from more standard nursery offerings. That’s not to say that they can live without water, though. This common myth has led a lot of beginning succulent gardeners down a road paved with disappointment. Most succulents prefer moderately lit, warm and well-draining locations – if you design your window boxes with these requirements in mind, you’ll soon be graced with happy, healthy succulents.
Choose a composite window box with lots of drainage holes – succulents will absolutely not tolerate wet feet! – and fill it with a commercial cactus medium. Avoid heavy, rich soil mixes, these will only increase the risk of disease and attract pests. If temperatures in your area dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius) for any significant amount of time, you may want to plan for smaller window boxes that can be brought indoors during the winter. Regardless of the size of your container, plan to water deeply once a week until October, when most succulents begin to go dormant.
Designing with Succulents
Slow-growing succulents can be packed tightly into window boxes for a very full look or spaced further apart with small stones or glass pebbles serving as a decorative mulch and doubling as anchors. Many people plant taller, larger succulents in the back of their window boxes and creeping succulents in the front to create a many layers of texture. Generously flowering creepers like Ice Plant and Moss Rose combine the texture of succulent foliage with bold flowers for a unique look as they spill over the edge of your boxes.
Although many gardeners like to mix it up, planting many different shapes, colors and sizes of succulents in the same window box, there is merit in a repeating pattern. Like tulips neatly arranged in a planter, a tidy row of Aeonium, Aloe, Echeveria or Pachyphytum can bring a sense of order to a more formal home or landscape.
Another neat trick is to arrange multiple levels of window boxes using stair risers for support. If you plant cascading succulents in the front of each box, a waterfall effect will eventually emerge to tie the many levels together visually. As long as your window box creations aren’t too wide to water properly, the sky’s the limit with succulents!
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