文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Mealybugs are a pest common to cacti and succulents. Greenhouse and windowsill assemblages are especially vulnerable to the critters. You can eliminate mealybugs temporarily, but they are difficult to eradicate completely, especially in large groupings of plants. Deal effectively with mealybugs and restore healthy environmental conditions in your cactus collection to prevent future infestations.
About Mealybugs
Mealybugs are gray or light brown insects 2 to 3 millimeters long. They resemble woodlice. Mealybugs can accumulate around the base of a cactus or just beneath the soil around its growing point. An early sign of a mealybug problem is a secretion that resembles white fluff on the plant. This is where the bugs reproduce. Fallen needles may also indicate a mealybug presence. Squashed bugs leave red or green stains. Ants farm mealybugs for their sweet secretions; an ant problem near a cactus may be an indication of mealybugs.
Natural Remedies
There are many effective nonchemical approaches to dealing with mealybugs. Experiment to find the best method for your cactus. Dab bugs and white fluff with denatured alcohol on a cotton swab to kill the insects. Repeat this treatment as often as is necessary to remove all bugs from the plant, checking it thoroughly once every three weeks. Fumigant smoke cones may be effective if used regularly, especially in large groupings of plants in a greenhouse. Alternatively, spray cactus with several drops of dish soap diluted in a cup of water. For a biological control, introduce a mealybug predator such as Cryptolaemus montrouzieri. Be aware that the effectiveness of biological controls for mealybugs in home settings can be low, as maintaining a balance of predators and pray can be difficult. Manage an ant problem to deter mealybug farming.
Chemical Remedies
Systemic insecticides poison bugs that ingest the cactus’ sap. Human skin, however, may also absorb these poisons. Imidacloprid is effective against mealybugs and is lower in toxicity to animals than some other chemical treatments. Water plants with imidacloprid once every several months during active growth. To deal with a root infestation, immerse the cactus’s pot in a bucket containing insecticide and a few drops of dish soap. Let the plant dry completely after this treatment. Be sure that no mealybugs survive a chemical treatment to help deter the bugs from becoming resistant to insecticide.
Preventative Care
Isolate a newly acquired cactus for two to three weeks to observe whether it contains mealybugs. Inspect all of your cactus plants regularly to intercept a mealybug infestation while it is small, before it spreads to nearby plants. Notice any dramatic changes in your cactus’s condition, such as discoloration or sudden limpness, as these may be signs of a mealybug problem that is not readily visible. Keep the area around your cactus clean and free of dried leaves and dropped flowers, as rotting organic matter provides an ideal home for a wide range of pests and diseases.
About Mealybugs
Mealybugs are gray or light brown insects 2 to 3 millimeters long. They resemble woodlice. Mealybugs can accumulate around the base of a cactus or just beneath the soil around its growing point. An early sign of a mealybug problem is a secretion that resembles white fluff on the plant. This is where the bugs reproduce. Fallen needles may also indicate a mealybug presence. Squashed bugs leave red or green stains. Ants farm mealybugs for their sweet secretions; an ant problem near a cactus may be an indication of mealybugs.
Natural Remedies
There are many effective nonchemical approaches to dealing with mealybugs. Experiment to find the best method for your cactus. Dab bugs and white fluff with denatured alcohol on a cotton swab to kill the insects. Repeat this treatment as often as is necessary to remove all bugs from the plant, checking it thoroughly once every three weeks. Fumigant smoke cones may be effective if used regularly, especially in large groupings of plants in a greenhouse. Alternatively, spray cactus with several drops of dish soap diluted in a cup of water. For a biological control, introduce a mealybug predator such as Cryptolaemus montrouzieri. Be aware that the effectiveness of biological controls for mealybugs in home settings can be low, as maintaining a balance of predators and pray can be difficult. Manage an ant problem to deter mealybug farming.
Chemical Remedies
Systemic insecticides poison bugs that ingest the cactus’ sap. Human skin, however, may also absorb these poisons. Imidacloprid is effective against mealybugs and is lower in toxicity to animals than some other chemical treatments. Water plants with imidacloprid once every several months during active growth. To deal with a root infestation, immerse the cactus’s pot in a bucket containing insecticide and a few drops of dish soap. Let the plant dry completely after this treatment. Be sure that no mealybugs survive a chemical treatment to help deter the bugs from becoming resistant to insecticide.
Preventative Care
Isolate a newly acquired cactus for two to three weeks to observe whether it contains mealybugs. Inspect all of your cactus plants regularly to intercept a mealybug infestation while it is small, before it spreads to nearby plants. Notice any dramatic changes in your cactus’s condition, such as discoloration or sudden limpness, as these may be signs of a mealybug problem that is not readily visible. Keep the area around your cactus clean and free of dried leaves and dropped flowers, as rotting organic matter provides an ideal home for a wide range of pests and diseases.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents are hardy plants that add a striking appearance to any garden or home. Performing best in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 through 9, succulents are good plants for the novice and expert gardener alike, as they require little attention. Because succulents are desert plants, they should be watered sparingly. Succulents are typically not susceptible to insect or pest infestation, but overwatering can lead to root or stem rot, a preventable and easily fixable disease. Succulents with signs of root or stem rot should be treated immediately.
1. Check the plant for infected areas. These typically appear as dark brown to black spots or areas on the low part of the plant. Other signs of root or stem rot include puckered flesh with a dark tint around the infected area.
2. Stop watering a plant with rot. Remove the plant from its pot. Remove the soil mixture and clean out the pot thoroughly to ensure no remnants of the fungus are left.
3. Cut the infected black stem from the plant with a garden knife. Let the healthy portion of the plant dry naturally for several hours, keeping the succulent out of direct sunlight during this process. If other areas of the plant are showing minimal signs of rot, keep an eye on the plant. Succulents can recover from stem rot if properly watered and placed in a warm, dry location.
4. Using the cleaned out pot or a fresh one, combine equal parts soil, coarse sand and peat moss. Don’t reuse any of the materials used with the infected plant.
5. Pour roughly 2 inches (5 cm) of the mixture into the pot. Place the newly doctored succulent into the pot with the roots lying on top of the soil. Fill the pot with the soil mixture until it reaches the base of the stems. Firmly pat the soil around the plant.
6. Place the succulent in a brightly lit spot with warm temperatures. Succulents prefer dry climates, so don’t place the plant in a humid location.
7. Water the plant with just enough water to moisten the soil one week after repotting. After the soil has completely dried out, you can water more thoroughly.
Succulents grow best in well-drained soils that provide a high water-holding capacity. Planting succulents in a clay pot with a drainage hole ensures there is no sitting water and that the soil dries out between waterings. Succulents are dormant during the winter and should only be watered lightly at this time.
1. Check the plant for infected areas. These typically appear as dark brown to black spots or areas on the low part of the plant. Other signs of root or stem rot include puckered flesh with a dark tint around the infected area.
2. Stop watering a plant with rot. Remove the plant from its pot. Remove the soil mixture and clean out the pot thoroughly to ensure no remnants of the fungus are left.
3. Cut the infected black stem from the plant with a garden knife. Let the healthy portion of the plant dry naturally for several hours, keeping the succulent out of direct sunlight during this process. If other areas of the plant are showing minimal signs of rot, keep an eye on the plant. Succulents can recover from stem rot if properly watered and placed in a warm, dry location.
4. Using the cleaned out pot or a fresh one, combine equal parts soil, coarse sand and peat moss. Don’t reuse any of the materials used with the infected plant.
5. Pour roughly 2 inches (5 cm) of the mixture into the pot. Place the newly doctored succulent into the pot with the roots lying on top of the soil. Fill the pot with the soil mixture until it reaches the base of the stems. Firmly pat the soil around the plant.
6. Place the succulent in a brightly lit spot with warm temperatures. Succulents prefer dry climates, so don’t place the plant in a humid location.
7. Water the plant with just enough water to moisten the soil one week after repotting. After the soil has completely dried out, you can water more thoroughly.
Succulents grow best in well-drained soils that provide a high water-holding capacity. Planting succulents in a clay pot with a drainage hole ensures there is no sitting water and that the soil dries out between waterings. Succulents are dormant during the winter and should only be watered lightly at this time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti are remarkably durable and low in maintenance. The succulents need little more than sun, well drained soil and rare moisture. The pests and problems common to the plant group are minimal and usually easy to surmount. Cactus problems may range from sucking pests, like whitefly, to common rots from bacteria or fungal disease. One of the telltale signs of a problem is a soft, mushy cactus.
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements.
As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial.
Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes.
If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium.
A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements.
As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial.
Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes.
If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium.
A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents have to be resilient to survive in some of the hottest and driest places on earth. Little gets past their sharp spines and tough skin, except two tiny insects that can do a lot of damage.
Mealybugs and scale are particularly attracted to cacti and succulents. They can injure and even kill them by feeding on their juice.
Mealybugs attack all parts of a plant, above and below ground, but are usually found on leaves and stems. A plant will be covered with what looks like sticky white cotton, and up close, you can see small, white oval bugs.
Mealybugs can be tough to completely eradicate. Scale insects cover themselves with hard oval, tan or brown shells. They congregate on leaves and stems, and multiply quickly.
Treat Cacti and Succulents for Mealybugs and Scale
Wear gloves before handling cactus, or use bunched-up newspaper or paper towels to hold the plant.
Spray water hard enough to dislodge the insects, but not so hard as to damage the plant.
Nick scale off with a fingernail or tweezers.
Spray the plant with insecticidal soap, neem oil or horticultural oil. Follow directions on the package, as improper use can damage the plant.
Wipe mealybugs or scale with a cotton swab dipped in a solution of 50 percent rubbing alcohol and 50 percent water.
Large infestations may need treatment with a systemic insecticide. This is a last resort. Avoid insecticides containing imidacloprid, which can harm pollinators. Consider whether to remove and replace the plant instead.
Mealybugs and scale are particularly attracted to cacti and succulents. They can injure and even kill them by feeding on their juice.
Mealybugs attack all parts of a plant, above and below ground, but are usually found on leaves and stems. A plant will be covered with what looks like sticky white cotton, and up close, you can see small, white oval bugs.
Mealybugs can be tough to completely eradicate. Scale insects cover themselves with hard oval, tan or brown shells. They congregate on leaves and stems, and multiply quickly.
Treat Cacti and Succulents for Mealybugs and Scale
Wear gloves before handling cactus, or use bunched-up newspaper or paper towels to hold the plant.
Spray water hard enough to dislodge the insects, but not so hard as to damage the plant.
Nick scale off with a fingernail or tweezers.
Spray the plant with insecticidal soap, neem oil or horticultural oil. Follow directions on the package, as improper use can damage the plant.
Wipe mealybugs or scale with a cotton swab dipped in a solution of 50 percent rubbing alcohol and 50 percent water.
Large infestations may need treatment with a systemic insecticide. This is a last resort. Avoid insecticides containing imidacloprid, which can harm pollinators. Consider whether to remove and replace the plant instead.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are considered low-maintenance plants even when grown indoors. The leaves and stems hold water as an adaptation to growing in arid areas. These plants offer unusual shapes, textures and forms. They make good houseplants for year-round growing inside. Plants grown in pots outdoors can be brought indoors during the winter to protect the cold-temperature sensitive succulent varieties.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures.
4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
1. Feed the succulents one last time at the end of summer. Succulents only need diluted fertilizer while they are actively growing. Stop feeding when the plants stop growing for the year and go dormant, which occurs when the temperatures drop and the light level falls. Too much fertilizer causes succulents to develop soft leaves, which are prone to rot.
2. Place the dormant succulent in an area with at least 3 to 4 hours of bright light. Succulents need less light during the winter than when they are actively growing during the summer. Succulents survive with indirect light during the winter.
3. Keep the temperature of the room the succulents are in around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius) during the winter. Many succulents such as Aeoniums do not tolerate colder temperatures.
4. Pour water into the top of the succulent container until it drains out the bottom. Water the succulents deeply but less often in the winter. The dormant plants do not use as much water as when they are actively growing. Water the plants about once every one to two months.
5. Check the leaves every month for aphids or mealy bugs, which look like tiny cotton balls. Look under the leaves as well. Move an infested succulent away from other plants. Fill a spray bottle with 3 parts rubbing alcohol mixed with 1 part water, and mist it onto the plant to kill the pests. Keep the succulent away from the rest of the plants for a couple of weeks just in case a few of the bugs survive the first spray. Repeat the rubbing alcohol application until all the pests are gone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents and their care are different from annuals, perennials, shrubs, or other greenery. They’re drought tolerant, easy to care for, uniquely shaped, and are able to thrive in places that would likely kill other plants. Whether you’re new to growing these living treasures, or you’re more experienced, some of these myths may surprise you. It’s time to dispel these common myths that keep your plants from thriving.
1. All Succulents are Hardy
Although succulents are hardy (they’re most definitely hardier than most plants), hardy doesn’t mean they’re capable of handling extreme conditions for long periods of time. Some succulents are hardier than others. For outdoor planting, it is recommended to aim toward hardier succulents since they are able to withstand more. Some good choices for hardy succulents include Sedum and Sempervivum.
2. Full, Direct Sunlight is Necessary
Many species can handle full sun during the day. This doesn’t apply to all succulents. Most succulents enjoy bright morning sunlight. Afternoon sunlight is typically too hot and harsh. In fact, full, direct sunlight, can harm your plant rather than help it. Full sun increases the likelihood of your succulent leaves burning and killing it. While succulents are considered to be sun-loving plants, be aware how long you keep your succulent in full sun.
3. Succulents should be Planted in Sand
Some assume that sand is best suited for planting succulents. Indeed, succulents need excellent drainage, but more than likely sand is not the best option. Sand can actually be too draining. When water penetrates the sand, it drains away quickly and the plant will receive very little water. We recommend using succulent and cactus soil.
4. Succulents are Cacti, Cacti are Succulents
Succulents and cacti are not all one in the same. Most cacti are considered succulents, but there are a few that are not. Not all succulents are cacti either. These would include Echeveria, Crassula, Euphorbia, Sempervivum, Aeonium, Sedum, x Graptosedum, and Haworthia.
5. Succulents Can Handle any Weather
Different succulents call for different care. Most succulents can handle various weather conditions, but they do prefer less humid, sunny weather. They are hardier than other perennial plants in your garden, but they handle wetter and colder climates differently. A harsh winter may cause the plant to freeze and consistent humidity may lead to root rot. Just remember, succulents enjoy a bit of neglect.
6. All Succulents are not Edible
Many succulents are edible, but be aware of the plants you choose to eat. While many are harmless, some can be toxic to humans and animals if ingested, especially in large quantities. Be conscious of the toxicity of all your plants before exposing them to children or animals in your home.
7. Top Dressing Provides Extra Drainage for Succulents
Top dressing is a fun way to add texture and color to your container gardening. Just be careful that your top dressing is not trapping moisture inside the container, which causes root rot.
8. Closed, Sealed Spaces are Tolerable
Succulents need fresh air and ventilation. Your plants will not last long in closed terrariums. Moisture has no way to escape allowing mold to enter and your succulents may get root rot. Don’t put the terrarium on a full sun windowsill, as its leaves will burn.
1. All Succulents are Hardy
Although succulents are hardy (they’re most definitely hardier than most plants), hardy doesn’t mean they’re capable of handling extreme conditions for long periods of time. Some succulents are hardier than others. For outdoor planting, it is recommended to aim toward hardier succulents since they are able to withstand more. Some good choices for hardy succulents include Sedum and Sempervivum.
2. Full, Direct Sunlight is Necessary
Many species can handle full sun during the day. This doesn’t apply to all succulents. Most succulents enjoy bright morning sunlight. Afternoon sunlight is typically too hot and harsh. In fact, full, direct sunlight, can harm your plant rather than help it. Full sun increases the likelihood of your succulent leaves burning and killing it. While succulents are considered to be sun-loving plants, be aware how long you keep your succulent in full sun.
3. Succulents should be Planted in Sand
Some assume that sand is best suited for planting succulents. Indeed, succulents need excellent drainage, but more than likely sand is not the best option. Sand can actually be too draining. When water penetrates the sand, it drains away quickly and the plant will receive very little water. We recommend using succulent and cactus soil.
4. Succulents are Cacti, Cacti are Succulents
Succulents and cacti are not all one in the same. Most cacti are considered succulents, but there are a few that are not. Not all succulents are cacti either. These would include Echeveria, Crassula, Euphorbia, Sempervivum, Aeonium, Sedum, x Graptosedum, and Haworthia.
5. Succulents Can Handle any Weather
Different succulents call for different care. Most succulents can handle various weather conditions, but they do prefer less humid, sunny weather. They are hardier than other perennial plants in your garden, but they handle wetter and colder climates differently. A harsh winter may cause the plant to freeze and consistent humidity may lead to root rot. Just remember, succulents enjoy a bit of neglect.
6. All Succulents are not Edible
Many succulents are edible, but be aware of the plants you choose to eat. While many are harmless, some can be toxic to humans and animals if ingested, especially in large quantities. Be conscious of the toxicity of all your plants before exposing them to children or animals in your home.
7. Top Dressing Provides Extra Drainage for Succulents
Top dressing is a fun way to add texture and color to your container gardening. Just be careful that your top dressing is not trapping moisture inside the container, which causes root rot.
8. Closed, Sealed Spaces are Tolerable
Succulents need fresh air and ventilation. Your plants will not last long in closed terrariums. Moisture has no way to escape allowing mold to enter and your succulents may get root rot. Don’t put the terrarium on a full sun windowsill, as its leaves will burn.
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이대강：Fhj
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are all the rage and with good reason. They are beautiful, interesting, and in most cases easy to care for. They are often used as decor both indoors and out. Succulents are living plants that require some care to survive and thrive, and while caring for them is not complex, knowing the basics will help you have the healthiest plants around.
Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents
As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for:
Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears;
Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves.
No pests on the leaves…
…or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering
Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years.
When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight
Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering
If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold.
Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time!
Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents
These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents
As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for:
Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears;
Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves.
No pests on the leaves…
…or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering
Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years.
When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight
Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering
If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold.
Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time!
Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents
These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are a popular gardening trend that won’t be dying anytime soon. Enthusiasts love their geometric forms and exquisite, often intricate patterns and details. No longer viewed as just a desert or house plant, succulents can grow and actually thrive in various climates, depending on the type of succulent. In regions affected by drought, they are a smart, drought-tolerant alternative to thirsty lawns and other water-guzzling plants.
With very little effort, succulents can look so good. But they still require attention. Discover how to not only keep them alive, but get them to thrive.
1. Don’t Overwater Them
You love your succulents so much, you want to water them every other day to make them grow plump and lush. But what you’ll get is a soft, shriveled, squishy mess. Overwatering is a bigger problem for succulents than underwatering. Roots can rot. If it’s too late, look for healthy tissue, take some cuttings, and allow the cut end to callus (seal itself) and then replant it. Get rid of the soil in which the oversaturated succulent was in.
2. Don’t Neglect Them
Succulents and cacti: those are the desert-like plants that don’t need to be watered, like, ever—right? Wrong. Their watering needs are minimal, but they still need it to survive. If you live in a region that doesn’t get much rain, water succulents regularly during their periods of active growth. This would be spring through fall.
Container plants can be watered about once a week. Occasionally, let the hose drench the pot until water flows out, to remove built-up salts from the soil.
3. Group Plants with Similar Water Needs
In other words, don’t plant succulents next to super-fussy perennials that require rich soil and frequent watering. Ideally, you want to have a drought-tolerant, low-water area in your garden, a moderate water area, and so on. It just makes things easier for you and your plants will be happier.
4. The Right Soil
Cactus and succulent-mix soil is available by the bag at nurseries and home centers. While it’s useful for container plants, especially those that will be used as houseplants, it’s not always practical or necessary for succulents planted in the garden. Learn more about the type of soil that’s in your yard, and add amendments to make it fast-draining and on the dryer side.
While some succulents are so forgiving and will grow almost anywhere, even in clay, it’s best to give them optimal growing conditions for healthy roots and beautiful plants.
5. Shed Some Light
Most succulents need a mix of sunlight and shade to grow healthy. One extreme or the other is not going to result in a beautiful, happy plant. Learn about your particular succulent’s light requirements, and find the best place in your yard or space in which it plant it.
A hint: the color of the plant is a tip-off to its light needs. For example, shade-loving succulents are usually in hues of yellow and green. Sun lovers are more reddish and orange.
6. Protect from Frost
Succulents go dormant during the winter months, when they don’t need to be watered. In fact, watering them during dormant season can make their roots more susceptible to rot, and kill them. What they really like is a cool and dry climate.
If your area is experiencing lots of rain, and your succulents are in pots, move them under eaves to avoid over-saturation, or bring them inside.
Frost is another matter. Pay attention to freeze warnings. Cover with a cloth or plant under a tree, which protects succulents during the winter and summer.
7. Put Them in the Ground
Some people think that succulents are houseplants, and when they are grown outdoors, must be relegated to containers and pots. While they look great in a well-designed container arrangement, succulents, just like any other plant, love to be planted in garden beds where they can be fruitful and multiply. In warmer regions that don’t experience freezing temperatures during the winter, succulents will do just fine growing in the ground or raised beds.
Some are so forgiving of soil conditions that they can grow almost anywhere that has at least some soil to which they can attach their roots.
8. Allow to Callus Before Transplanting
Succulents are one of the easiest plants to propagate: just take a snippet, some leaves, a stem, offset, or “baby” and plop into the soil or another pot. But before you do, allow the stem to callus-over for a few days to prevent rot. This can be done by either placing cuttings or a paper towel and leaving them for up to five days, or putting them in a container or other place where you will remember to replant them.
9. Get Rid of Harmful Insects
One thing is certain: your succulent or cacti is not looking good. Symptoms include: buds that won’t open, distorted growth, cotton-like attachments to roots, tiny insects on new growth, paprika-like dots on leaves, brown bumps on stems, collapsed outer leaves, holes in leaves.
The culprit? Insects. Some gardeners believe that hardy succulents and cacti are resistant to insects–not so. Consult a master gardener site online or get one of the books about succulents and cacti to help you identify the symptom, insect, and solution.
10. Protect from Disease
One sign of disease in succulents is an orangeish, cancerous-like growth near or on the stem. It has probably become infected by a microscopic mite. To treat: remove the infected tissue and put the succulent in a separate container until new, healthy growth appears. To prevent spreading to other plants, remember to clean your tools after using them on infected succulents.
With very little effort, succulents can look so good. But they still require attention. Discover how to not only keep them alive, but get them to thrive.
1. Don’t Overwater Them
You love your succulents so much, you want to water them every other day to make them grow plump and lush. But what you’ll get is a soft, shriveled, squishy mess. Overwatering is a bigger problem for succulents than underwatering. Roots can rot. If it’s too late, look for healthy tissue, take some cuttings, and allow the cut end to callus (seal itself) and then replant it. Get rid of the soil in which the oversaturated succulent was in.
2. Don’t Neglect Them
Succulents and cacti: those are the desert-like plants that don’t need to be watered, like, ever—right? Wrong. Their watering needs are minimal, but they still need it to survive. If you live in a region that doesn’t get much rain, water succulents regularly during their periods of active growth. This would be spring through fall.
Container plants can be watered about once a week. Occasionally, let the hose drench the pot until water flows out, to remove built-up salts from the soil.
3. Group Plants with Similar Water Needs
In other words, don’t plant succulents next to super-fussy perennials that require rich soil and frequent watering. Ideally, you want to have a drought-tolerant, low-water area in your garden, a moderate water area, and so on. It just makes things easier for you and your plants will be happier.
4. The Right Soil
Cactus and succulent-mix soil is available by the bag at nurseries and home centers. While it’s useful for container plants, especially those that will be used as houseplants, it’s not always practical or necessary for succulents planted in the garden. Learn more about the type of soil that’s in your yard, and add amendments to make it fast-draining and on the dryer side.
While some succulents are so forgiving and will grow almost anywhere, even in clay, it’s best to give them optimal growing conditions for healthy roots and beautiful plants.
5. Shed Some Light
Most succulents need a mix of sunlight and shade to grow healthy. One extreme or the other is not going to result in a beautiful, happy plant. Learn about your particular succulent’s light requirements, and find the best place in your yard or space in which it plant it.
A hint: the color of the plant is a tip-off to its light needs. For example, shade-loving succulents are usually in hues of yellow and green. Sun lovers are more reddish and orange.
6. Protect from Frost
Succulents go dormant during the winter months, when they don’t need to be watered. In fact, watering them during dormant season can make their roots more susceptible to rot, and kill them. What they really like is a cool and dry climate.
If your area is experiencing lots of rain, and your succulents are in pots, move them under eaves to avoid over-saturation, or bring them inside.
Frost is another matter. Pay attention to freeze warnings. Cover with a cloth or plant under a tree, which protects succulents during the winter and summer.
7. Put Them in the Ground
Some people think that succulents are houseplants, and when they are grown outdoors, must be relegated to containers and pots. While they look great in a well-designed container arrangement, succulents, just like any other plant, love to be planted in garden beds where they can be fruitful and multiply. In warmer regions that don’t experience freezing temperatures during the winter, succulents will do just fine growing in the ground or raised beds.
Some are so forgiving of soil conditions that they can grow almost anywhere that has at least some soil to which they can attach their roots.
8. Allow to Callus Before Transplanting
Succulents are one of the easiest plants to propagate: just take a snippet, some leaves, a stem, offset, or “baby” and plop into the soil or another pot. But before you do, allow the stem to callus-over for a few days to prevent rot. This can be done by either placing cuttings or a paper towel and leaving them for up to five days, or putting them in a container or other place where you will remember to replant them.
9. Get Rid of Harmful Insects
One thing is certain: your succulent or cacti is not looking good. Symptoms include: buds that won’t open, distorted growth, cotton-like attachments to roots, tiny insects on new growth, paprika-like dots on leaves, brown bumps on stems, collapsed outer leaves, holes in leaves.
The culprit? Insects. Some gardeners believe that hardy succulents and cacti are resistant to insects–not so. Consult a master gardener site online or get one of the books about succulents and cacti to help you identify the symptom, insect, and solution.
10. Protect from Disease
One sign of disease in succulents is an orangeish, cancerous-like growth near or on the stem. It has probably become infected by a microscopic mite. To treat: remove the infected tissue and put the succulent in a separate container until new, healthy growth appears. To prevent spreading to other plants, remember to clean your tools after using them on infected succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Othonna is a genus of more than 100 African plants in the Sunflower family (Asteraceae). These are evergreen or deciduous geophytes, dwarf succulents or shrubs concentrated in the Western Cape Province of South Africa and also in southern Namibia. A few species occur in summer rainfall parts of southern Africa. The genus is closely allied to Senecio and can be distinguished principally by details of the involucre.
The form or habit of Othonnas is very diverse. Leaf diversity is also notable in this genus. A few species possess highly succulent leaves (Othonna capensis, Othonna sedifolia) but most have bifacial leaves that are only slightly succulent. Size and shape is variable, with most species having leaves in the 0.4 to 4 inches (1 to 10 cm) long range.
The bright yellow (occasionally white or purple) flowers are the most distinguishing characteristic of the genus and the flowering times differ from different species. Some flower just before beginning their summer rest, and others flower after beginning growth in the fall.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Othonna plants have a variable range of habitats, some grow in a very hot, arid regions, but they avoid the intense desiccating rays of the north and west sun, growing between rocks in southern slopes. A few species, by contrary, grow in strong direct sunlight in arid situations that become very hot and dry as well as saturated for a few weeks during their growing period. All Othonnas grow in very open situations with plenty of free air circulation all around.
Othonnas fleshy leaves and daisy-like flowers make them excellent in a desert or rock garden (where hardy), or indoors as houseplants or greenhouse specimens.
Othonnas tend to be fairly hardy but some of them as Othonna cacalioides can be extremely difficult in cultivation if you do not give them the right conditions: space to develop radicular system, better to keep them in flat pots. In summer protect plants from direct sunlight. In growing season they like to be moist, fresh and plenty light. They don’t like temperatures below 50°F (10°C).
In the warmer months Othonnas go into their dormancy period, stop watering, place them in a shaded, cooler area, away from getting direct sunlight and with good air circulation, relatively dry. In the fall, sometime around early to mid October when nights cool down, the plants may start growing on their own, but a good soaking will help them to leaf out.
A typical succulent soil mix should be suitable for growing Othonnas but additional drainage material would be recommended.
Propagation
Start seed in spring at 64 to 70°F (18 to 21°C). Plants can also be propagated from basal or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer using bottom heat.
The form or habit of Othonnas is very diverse. Leaf diversity is also notable in this genus. A few species possess highly succulent leaves (Othonna capensis, Othonna sedifolia) but most have bifacial leaves that are only slightly succulent. Size and shape is variable, with most species having leaves in the 0.4 to 4 inches (1 to 10 cm) long range.
The bright yellow (occasionally white or purple) flowers are the most distinguishing characteristic of the genus and the flowering times differ from different species. Some flower just before beginning their summer rest, and others flower after beginning growth in the fall.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Othonna plants have a variable range of habitats, some grow in a very hot, arid regions, but they avoid the intense desiccating rays of the north and west sun, growing between rocks in southern slopes. A few species, by contrary, grow in strong direct sunlight in arid situations that become very hot and dry as well as saturated for a few weeks during their growing period. All Othonnas grow in very open situations with plenty of free air circulation all around.
Othonnas fleshy leaves and daisy-like flowers make them excellent in a desert or rock garden (where hardy), or indoors as houseplants or greenhouse specimens.
Othonnas tend to be fairly hardy but some of them as Othonna cacalioides can be extremely difficult in cultivation if you do not give them the right conditions: space to develop radicular system, better to keep them in flat pots. In summer protect plants from direct sunlight. In growing season they like to be moist, fresh and plenty light. They don’t like temperatures below 50°F (10°C).
In the warmer months Othonnas go into their dormancy period, stop watering, place them in a shaded, cooler area, away from getting direct sunlight and with good air circulation, relatively dry. In the fall, sometime around early to mid October when nights cool down, the plants may start growing on their own, but a good soaking will help them to leaf out.
A typical succulent soil mix should be suitable for growing Othonnas but additional drainage material would be recommended.
Propagation
Start seed in spring at 64 to 70°F (18 to 21°C). Plants can also be propagated from basal or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer using bottom heat.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are typically well-suited to indoor living. They can even adapt to less-than-ideal conditions and tolerate a little bit of neglect. Still, no succulent can survive in subpar conditions forever. Eventually inadequate lighting, incorrect watering, disease or pests will take their toll. Once your plants start to look sickly, you need to act quickly to right the problem. Most sickly succulents come back to life with a few simple changes to their environment or care routine.
Water and Soil Moisture
One of the quickest ways to kill indoor succulents is to water them incorrectly. Succulents use their thick, fleshy leaves to store water. They’ll rely on these water reserves to survive in dry conditions, but they still require regular watering to thrive. However, too much water is deadly to these plants. From spring to fall when growth is most active, water your succulent when the top inch (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. Pour fresh water into the pot until it begins to drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Allow all of the excess water to drain away completely. For most potted succulent plants, this means watering at least once per week. During the inactive growing season, or winter, water when the plant has almost dried out, or when the soil is mostly dry to the touch but not completely bone-dry. As a general rule, you’ll need to water about once a month in the winter. If your succulents appear deflated or shriveled during this season, you may need to water more often. It’s better to water too little than too much until you figure out the ideal watering schedule.
Mineral Buildup and Water Damage
Your dying succulents could be suffering damage from water treatment additives. Tap water contains minerals and other additives that build up in the soil and have the potential to damage roots and cause poor growth or even death. If you use a water softener in your home, the excess salts can also damage your succulents. A telltale sign of mineral or salt buildup is a white crust on the surface of the soil or along the sides of the pot. If you can’t collect rainwater, try watering with distilled water or water that has been filtered to remove minerals. At the very least, leaving tap water out on the counter overnight before using it allows some of the treatment chemicals to dissipate into the air. If you suspect that mineral buildup or water treatment chemicals are to blame, you have two options. First, you can flush the soil of each plant with plenty of rainwater, filtered water or distilled water to rinse away excess minerals. Second, you can repot the plant, taking special care to gently knock some but not all of the old soil away from the roots.
Lighting Conditions
Succulents typically do well in a variety of home lighting conditions. They do not always adapt well to abrupt changes in light. If your succulents were outside for a long period of time or in a shady garden center and they’re now in opposite conditions in your home, they could be suffering from shock. The key to saving your succulents is to gradually introduce them to the lighting conditions in your home. For example, if they were in bright, direct outdoor light, move them first to indirect outdoor light. After a few days, move them to a slightly shadier spot. After a few more days, move them indoors near a sunny window. After about a week, try moving them to their permanent home. If your succulents don’t respond to slowly introducing them to their new lighting conditions, it could be that they need more or less light to thrive. If you placed them next to a sunny window with hot, direct light, try moving them to a bright spot that doesn’t get direct light. If they’re in a shadier location, try moving them to a brighter one. If moving them to a new location entails a big change, adjust the plants gradually. You should notice improvement within a week or two.
Insects and Disease
Succulents that live in optimal conditions but still appear sickly are likely suffering from disease or insect infestation. Succulents are especially susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites, scale and fungus gnats. Mealy bugs can be treated by applying rubbing alcohol to their fuzzy white homes with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Scale, which looks like brown scales or shells, can be treated the same way. If you’re not sure what type of pest or disease you may have, apply a product that contains a miticide, fungicide and pesticide from your local garden center. These combination products contain neem oil, fish oil, soybean oil or other types of oil, which create conditions in which insects, mites and other pests can’t survive.
Water and Soil Moisture
One of the quickest ways to kill indoor succulents is to water them incorrectly. Succulents use their thick, fleshy leaves to store water. They’ll rely on these water reserves to survive in dry conditions, but they still require regular watering to thrive. However, too much water is deadly to these plants. From spring to fall when growth is most active, water your succulent when the top inch (2.5 cm) of the soil feels dry to the touch. Pour fresh water into the pot until it begins to drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot. Allow all of the excess water to drain away completely. For most potted succulent plants, this means watering at least once per week. During the inactive growing season, or winter, water when the plant has almost dried out, or when the soil is mostly dry to the touch but not completely bone-dry. As a general rule, you’ll need to water about once a month in the winter. If your succulents appear deflated or shriveled during this season, you may need to water more often. It’s better to water too little than too much until you figure out the ideal watering schedule.
Mineral Buildup and Water Damage
Your dying succulents could be suffering damage from water treatment additives. Tap water contains minerals and other additives that build up in the soil and have the potential to damage roots and cause poor growth or even death. If you use a water softener in your home, the excess salts can also damage your succulents. A telltale sign of mineral or salt buildup is a white crust on the surface of the soil or along the sides of the pot. If you can’t collect rainwater, try watering with distilled water or water that has been filtered to remove minerals. At the very least, leaving tap water out on the counter overnight before using it allows some of the treatment chemicals to dissipate into the air. If you suspect that mineral buildup or water treatment chemicals are to blame, you have two options. First, you can flush the soil of each plant with plenty of rainwater, filtered water or distilled water to rinse away excess minerals. Second, you can repot the plant, taking special care to gently knock some but not all of the old soil away from the roots.
Lighting Conditions
Succulents typically do well in a variety of home lighting conditions. They do not always adapt well to abrupt changes in light. If your succulents were outside for a long period of time or in a shady garden center and they’re now in opposite conditions in your home, they could be suffering from shock. The key to saving your succulents is to gradually introduce them to the lighting conditions in your home. For example, if they were in bright, direct outdoor light, move them first to indirect outdoor light. After a few days, move them to a slightly shadier spot. After a few more days, move them indoors near a sunny window. After about a week, try moving them to their permanent home. If your succulents don’t respond to slowly introducing them to their new lighting conditions, it could be that they need more or less light to thrive. If you placed them next to a sunny window with hot, direct light, try moving them to a bright spot that doesn’t get direct light. If they’re in a shadier location, try moving them to a brighter one. If moving them to a new location entails a big change, adjust the plants gradually. You should notice improvement within a week or two.
Insects and Disease
Succulents that live in optimal conditions but still appear sickly are likely suffering from disease or insect infestation. Succulents are especially susceptible to mealy bugs, spider mites, scale and fungus gnats. Mealy bugs can be treated by applying rubbing alcohol to their fuzzy white homes with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Scale, which looks like brown scales or shells, can be treated the same way. If you’re not sure what type of pest or disease you may have, apply a product that contains a miticide, fungicide and pesticide from your local garden center. These combination products contain neem oil, fish oil, soybean oil or other types of oil, which create conditions in which insects, mites and other pests can’t survive.
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求助
cclecombe
2017年09月18日
I'm having a go at propergating succulents and im starting to wonder if the conservatory I'm keeping in them is getting too hot and drying the soil out too quickly. If I spray at 08:30 and my midday theyre bone dry again!
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sarajordan2993：@cclecombe - not a problem , anything i can do to help 😊
cclecombe：@sarajordan2993 Ah! Thank you so much! That's really helpful. I'll grab some different soil tomorrow and start over!
meriunkat：😅 the same thing is happening to mine, but don't worry they don't need to be wet too often when you begin propagating, only spray water after you see them growing roots so it won't rot right now.
sarajordan2993：do they already have roots ? it looks like they dont , but my eyes are horrible . firstly , dont water them until you start to notice roots . when they start to root , only water maybe 2 times per week . succulents dont like a lot of water as we all know , so cuttings wont be any different . i noticed also that you may have them in peat moss ?? if so , peat moss is very known for retaining moisture & squeezing the air out of the soil; therefore, creating an unhealthy environment for any type of plants . your best bet is to get a regular potting soil (miracle gro, etc) & mix equal parts of that with perlite & sand . ( 1 part soil , 1 part perlite , 1 part sand ) . i really hope this helped!
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents don’t always fare well when exposed to the hot sun day in and day out. In nature, succulents often grow under or near a shrub or tree where they receive bright light but not constant direct sunlight. Don’t automatically plant your succulent smack-dab in the middle of the garden, where it receives endless hours of direct sunlight, especially during the summer. Instead, carefully select its growing location where your succulent will receive enough sunlight, but not too much.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
1. Determine how much direct sunlight your succulent should receive each day. Consider whether your succulent plant requires only 4 hours of direct sunlight a day, which is the case with most succulents. Plan to provide succulents with afternoon shade in areas that are scorched by hot summer sun.
2. Plant your succulent on the east side of a building, tree or another structure that is exposed to morning sun if your plant should be protected from the afternoon sun. Plant it under a tree, if desired, that receives filtered sunlight throughout the day during the summer, which also protects it from the afternoon sun. Alternatively, plant your succulent in a sunnier location, such as on the west or south side of your home, if your climate is mild during the summer and is not afflicted with hot, scorching summer days.
3. Examine your succulent 2 to 4 weeks after planting and several times during the summer. Notice whether it is indented, or has a tan, yellow or red color on the side that faces the most sun, both of which indicate that your plant is receiving too much direct sunlight. Determine whether your succulent is not growing well, which could mean that it needs more sunlight, especially if you are providing it with proper water and fertilizer.
4. Transplant your succulent to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby trees and shrubs to increase sunlight exposure, if necessary. Alternatively, transplant your succulent to a shadier site, or plant a shrub or other plants near it to provide more shade if your plant is getting too much sunlight.
Tip
Keep your succulent in a container for the first growing season so you can easily move it around until you find the best location.
Slowly acclimate your succulent to its new growing location before planting it, especially if it was previously an indoor plant. Place it in the sun for 2 hours a day for 1 or 2 days. Increase the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight by one-half hour every day until it is exposed to the same amount of sunlight as it will get in its new location.
Sketch your landscape and mark possible planting locations. Take a day to examine and record the amount of sunlight each area gets and what time of day.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents are the perfect plant for forgetful and sometimes neglectful gardeners. They don’t require much care and are easy to grow inside as well as out. They come in a variety of colors and textures and look lovely potted or landscaped.
Succulents are a diverse group of plants that come in many colors and shapes. There are over 20,000 varieties with kinds suited for all growing conditions. They store water in their leaves which tend to be thick and plump, although some have thinner leaves. They often grow in dry climates without much humidity. They do need to be watered, but can stand periods of drought instead pulling water that is stored in the leaves. They do not do well in wet conditions as their roots will start to rot if sitting in water for too long. Succulents often prefer warm weather can will not survive freezing temperatures. The stored water in the leaves will freeze and destroy the plant. Some species, however, can survive a freezing winter.
The most common types of succulents that you’ll be able to find are Agave, Yucca, Aloe, cacti, Sedum, Sempervivum, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and even some orchids.
Succulent Care
As with all plants the four things to consider when caring for succulents are light, water, soil, and temperature.
Light
Both indoor and outdoor succulents generally need at least 3 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sunlight would be preferable as the afternoon sun can be too harsh. Some succulents that receive too much sun may be damaged and look sunburned with scars on their leaves or a washed out color. Especially in hot climates where the sun is the most direct be sure to keep your succulents in areas with filtered sunlight.
Alternatively, succulents that don’t receive enough sun may begin to grow or reach toward the sun. The plants may begin to grow tall with the leaves more spaced out. Succulents that are colored may also turn green if not receiving enough light.
Water
Succulents are made to grow in arid climates and as a result do not need much water. They instead store their water in their leaves or stems. When watering your succulents be sure the soil is dry before you water. Soak the soil around the plant and don’t water again until the soil is completely dry. If the roots stay wet for long periods of time they may begin to rot causing the plant to rot. You will be able to tell this is occurring because the leaves will turn black and mushy and may start to grow mold. Generally, most succulents need to be watered only once a week. This will vary depending on your climate and soil conditions. If you are unsure how often to water your succulents it is better to underwater rather than overwater.
Soil
Well-draining soil is vital for succulents. This is important as too much moisture will cause the plant to rot. Unlike typical plants, succulent roots don’t absorb water through direct contact, but instead they get their water from the air. That is why well-draining soil is important. If you grow your succulents in pots, but sure the pot has drainage holes.
When planting succulents look for cactus mix potting soil. This mix is designed to drain better than regular potting soil. If you are unable to find cactus mix you can make your own by mixing 1 part stone pebbles, 1 part wood mulch, and 1 part clay pebbles. The stone pebbles don’t absorb water and create pockets in the mix for the water to drain. The mulch and clay absorb moisture and slowly releases it allowing the roots to receive water.
Temperature
Most succulents are able to tolerate a large range of temperatures if they get the right amount of sun and water. However, the more delicate succulents should not be kept in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) or below freezing. These are the types with really thick leaves. The extreme heat will cause them to droop when the soil gets too hot and dry and below freezing will freeze the water in their leaves.
Propagating
One of the excellent qualities of succulents is their ability to propagate easily. You can often start a new plant from leaf or a plant cutting. Some types of succulents propagate better from a cutting rather than a leaf. The succulents with the thick, fleshy leaves are best suited to leaf propagation.
The best way to remove a leaf for propagation is to gently twist the leaf from the stem. You’ll want the entire leaf so nothing should be left on the stem. For succulents that propagate best from cuttings use sharp scissors or pruning shears and cut off a stem right above a leaf. This can be either the top of the succulent, or a new shoot.
After removing the leaf or cutting you’ll want the end to dry out and scab over a bit before planting. If you plant it freshly cut it may absorb too much moisture. Depending on your climate and humidity this may take 1 to 3 days. The leaf or cutting may shrivel slightly. You’ll want to plant it before it dries out too much.
When the end of the cutting is dry it is time to plant it. The leaf does not need to be planted and instead should be laid on top of soil. Mist the cutting or leaf with water whenever the soil is dry. You do not need to soak the soil. The leaves will begin to grow tiny roots within 4 to 6 weeks. When you begin to see roots cover them with soil so they don’t dry out. Propagating new plants from leaves and cuttings is not a quick process as it may take up to a year for the new plant to be fully grown.
Identifying
Often times when you buy a succulent at the store it may not be labeled. Or it will be labeled simply as “succulent” or “succulent variety”. This can be frustrating as different succulent have different growth requirements. There are many avenues you can take to help you identify your plant. The first may be to simply ask the seller. If they are unsure you may be able to identify your succulent with a photo using an online forum.
The more difficult way to identify your succulent is to look at the characteristics of the plant such as leaf shape and growing habits.
Leaf shape
Succulents come in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The leaf shapes of succulent can vary greatly among the different kinds. Leaves are generally long and spikey or small and circular. Succulents that have long spikey leaves include Aloe vera, Agave, and Gasteria. Within the spikey-leaved category the leaves may be grass-like or fleshy. The succulents with circular leaves are rose-shaped, called rosette forming succulents. Rosette-forming, circular leaved succulents include Aeonium, Echeveria, and Graptopeltum.
Rosette type
Succulents that grow in the rosette-form feature close clusters of leaves that radiate from the center as a flower would. These leaves may be pointed or round, fleshy or grass-like. Jobivarva succulents feature rounded leaves and hen-and-chick feature pointed leaves.
Configuration
Some succulents grow in long stalks and others grow close to the ground and spread out. Succulents may change in configuration as they mature so waiting until they have aged may help in making an identification.
Plant size
The size of the plant may help you identify the plant as well as determine where it should be grown. Smaller plants, those that are just a couple inches tall and wide, may be best suited indoors. Larger plants may be best to grow outside.
Flower shape and color
Flowers are one of the easiest ways to identify a plant. If your succulent blooms pay attention to the shape, size, color, and even the time of year that it blooms. The Christmas Cactus, for example, blooms only once a year, in midwinter.
Indoor Succulents
Succulents are a popular choice for houseplants because they don’t require a lot of maintenance. A Jade Plant is a classic choice and is easy to grow. Aloe vera is also popular and can be used to treat sunburns or wounds. Burro’s Tail is a pretty plant that can add some interest to your interior. It has overlapping leaves which can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in length and hang over the flower pot.
Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are succulents that bloom during the holidays and offer some color during the time of year when it can be hard to find. Keep this succulent outside in a sheltered area in the summer and fall. Bring it indoors when the overnight temperatures begin to drop into the 40s. Fertilize the plant three times during the summer and keep it drier in the winter than in the spring and summer.
One of the easiest houseplants to keep is the Snake Plant. It gets its name from the shape of its leaves. This is an indestructible houseplant that strives on neglect. It grows upright and can fit into many locations in the home. There are also many varieties, some that are variegated in color, to offer many options.
Outdoor Succulents
The most common succulents you’ll find to grow outside are Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus, and Agave. These plants are great for landscaping and can be used alone or for all of the landscape. Yucca and Agave are hardy for most of the United States.
Hen-and-chick are a type of Sempervivum and get their name from the mother plant, or the hen, that produces cluster of offsets, the chicks. They are an easy plant to grow in the sunny part of the yard. They are low-growing and are also a good choice for a houseplant. When keeping it as a houseplant be sure to let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Sedum, sometimes called Stonecrop, are a great succulent to use as groundcover as most types are low-growing. Some varieties are taller and look best in the middle of the garden. They grow well in a normal garden, but do best in drier conditions. They also grow well in full-sun or partial sun.
Planting Succulents
When planting succulents in your garden one thing you should pay attention to is the soil. If your soil is not naturally well draining you will need to mix in some sand or gravel to help the drainage. No succulents can tolerate standing water so well-drained soil is key.
To help landscape the succulents consider adding a rock garden. This is a great way to achieve a natural looking succulent garden. Rock gardens feature various sizes of rocks and help mimic many of succulents native habits helping the landscaped succulents look more natural. You can also plant the succulents in groups to help them look purposeful and avoid planting in rows which can create the effect of soldiers in a row.
Succulents are a diverse group of plants that come in many colors and shapes. There are over 20,000 varieties with kinds suited for all growing conditions. They store water in their leaves which tend to be thick and plump, although some have thinner leaves. They often grow in dry climates without much humidity. They do need to be watered, but can stand periods of drought instead pulling water that is stored in the leaves. They do not do well in wet conditions as their roots will start to rot if sitting in water for too long. Succulents often prefer warm weather can will not survive freezing temperatures. The stored water in the leaves will freeze and destroy the plant. Some species, however, can survive a freezing winter.
The most common types of succulents that you’ll be able to find are Agave, Yucca, Aloe, cacti, Sedum, Sempervivum, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and even some orchids.
Succulent Care
As with all plants the four things to consider when caring for succulents are light, water, soil, and temperature.
Light
Both indoor and outdoor succulents generally need at least 3 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sunlight would be preferable as the afternoon sun can be too harsh. Some succulents that receive too much sun may be damaged and look sunburned with scars on their leaves or a washed out color. Especially in hot climates where the sun is the most direct be sure to keep your succulents in areas with filtered sunlight.
Alternatively, succulents that don’t receive enough sun may begin to grow or reach toward the sun. The plants may begin to grow tall with the leaves more spaced out. Succulents that are colored may also turn green if not receiving enough light.
Water
Succulents are made to grow in arid climates and as a result do not need much water. They instead store their water in their leaves or stems. When watering your succulents be sure the soil is dry before you water. Soak the soil around the plant and don’t water again until the soil is completely dry. If the roots stay wet for long periods of time they may begin to rot causing the plant to rot. You will be able to tell this is occurring because the leaves will turn black and mushy and may start to grow mold. Generally, most succulents need to be watered only once a week. This will vary depending on your climate and soil conditions. If you are unsure how often to water your succulents it is better to underwater rather than overwater.
Soil
Well-draining soil is vital for succulents. This is important as too much moisture will cause the plant to rot. Unlike typical plants, succulent roots don’t absorb water through direct contact, but instead they get their water from the air. That is why well-draining soil is important. If you grow your succulents in pots, but sure the pot has drainage holes.
When planting succulents look for cactus mix potting soil. This mix is designed to drain better than regular potting soil. If you are unable to find cactus mix you can make your own by mixing 1 part stone pebbles, 1 part wood mulch, and 1 part clay pebbles. The stone pebbles don’t absorb water and create pockets in the mix for the water to drain. The mulch and clay absorb moisture and slowly releases it allowing the roots to receive water.
Temperature
Most succulents are able to tolerate a large range of temperatures if they get the right amount of sun and water. However, the more delicate succulents should not be kept in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) or below freezing. These are the types with really thick leaves. The extreme heat will cause them to droop when the soil gets too hot and dry and below freezing will freeze the water in their leaves.
Propagating
One of the excellent qualities of succulents is their ability to propagate easily. You can often start a new plant from leaf or a plant cutting. Some types of succulents propagate better from a cutting rather than a leaf. The succulents with the thick, fleshy leaves are best suited to leaf propagation.
The best way to remove a leaf for propagation is to gently twist the leaf from the stem. You’ll want the entire leaf so nothing should be left on the stem. For succulents that propagate best from cuttings use sharp scissors or pruning shears and cut off a stem right above a leaf. This can be either the top of the succulent, or a new shoot.
After removing the leaf or cutting you’ll want the end to dry out and scab over a bit before planting. If you plant it freshly cut it may absorb too much moisture. Depending on your climate and humidity this may take 1 to 3 days. The leaf or cutting may shrivel slightly. You’ll want to plant it before it dries out too much.
When the end of the cutting is dry it is time to plant it. The leaf does not need to be planted and instead should be laid on top of soil. Mist the cutting or leaf with water whenever the soil is dry. You do not need to soak the soil. The leaves will begin to grow tiny roots within 4 to 6 weeks. When you begin to see roots cover them with soil so they don’t dry out. Propagating new plants from leaves and cuttings is not a quick process as it may take up to a year for the new plant to be fully grown.
Identifying
Often times when you buy a succulent at the store it may not be labeled. Or it will be labeled simply as “succulent” or “succulent variety”. This can be frustrating as different succulent have different growth requirements. There are many avenues you can take to help you identify your plant. The first may be to simply ask the seller. If they are unsure you may be able to identify your succulent with a photo using an online forum.
The more difficult way to identify your succulent is to look at the characteristics of the plant such as leaf shape and growing habits.
Leaf shape
Succulents come in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The leaf shapes of succulent can vary greatly among the different kinds. Leaves are generally long and spikey or small and circular. Succulents that have long spikey leaves include Aloe vera, Agave, and Gasteria. Within the spikey-leaved category the leaves may be grass-like or fleshy. The succulents with circular leaves are rose-shaped, called rosette forming succulents. Rosette-forming, circular leaved succulents include Aeonium, Echeveria, and Graptopeltum.
Rosette type
Succulents that grow in the rosette-form feature close clusters of leaves that radiate from the center as a flower would. These leaves may be pointed or round, fleshy or grass-like. Jobivarva succulents feature rounded leaves and hen-and-chick feature pointed leaves.
Configuration
Some succulents grow in long stalks and others grow close to the ground and spread out. Succulents may change in configuration as they mature so waiting until they have aged may help in making an identification.
Plant size
The size of the plant may help you identify the plant as well as determine where it should be grown. Smaller plants, those that are just a couple inches tall and wide, may be best suited indoors. Larger plants may be best to grow outside.
Flower shape and color
Flowers are one of the easiest ways to identify a plant. If your succulent blooms pay attention to the shape, size, color, and even the time of year that it blooms. The Christmas Cactus, for example, blooms only once a year, in midwinter.
Indoor Succulents
Succulents are a popular choice for houseplants because they don’t require a lot of maintenance. A Jade Plant is a classic choice and is easy to grow. Aloe vera is also popular and can be used to treat sunburns or wounds. Burro’s Tail is a pretty plant that can add some interest to your interior. It has overlapping leaves which can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in length and hang over the flower pot.
Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are succulents that bloom during the holidays and offer some color during the time of year when it can be hard to find. Keep this succulent outside in a sheltered area in the summer and fall. Bring it indoors when the overnight temperatures begin to drop into the 40s. Fertilize the plant three times during the summer and keep it drier in the winter than in the spring and summer.
One of the easiest houseplants to keep is the Snake Plant. It gets its name from the shape of its leaves. This is an indestructible houseplant that strives on neglect. It grows upright and can fit into many locations in the home. There are also many varieties, some that are variegated in color, to offer many options.
Outdoor Succulents
The most common succulents you’ll find to grow outside are Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus, and Agave. These plants are great for landscaping and can be used alone or for all of the landscape. Yucca and Agave are hardy for most of the United States.
Hen-and-chick are a type of Sempervivum and get their name from the mother plant, or the hen, that produces cluster of offsets, the chicks. They are an easy plant to grow in the sunny part of the yard. They are low-growing and are also a good choice for a houseplant. When keeping it as a houseplant be sure to let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Sedum, sometimes called Stonecrop, are a great succulent to use as groundcover as most types are low-growing. Some varieties are taller and look best in the middle of the garden. They grow well in a normal garden, but do best in drier conditions. They also grow well in full-sun or partial sun.
Planting Succulents
When planting succulents in your garden one thing you should pay attention to is the soil. If your soil is not naturally well draining you will need to mix in some sand or gravel to help the drainage. No succulents can tolerate standing water so well-drained soil is key.
To help landscape the succulents consider adding a rock garden. This is a great way to achieve a natural looking succulent garden. Rock gardens feature various sizes of rocks and help mimic many of succulents native habits helping the landscaped succulents look more natural. You can also plant the succulents in groups to help them look purposeful and avoid planting in rows which can create the effect of soldiers in a row.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
If you’re looking to decorate your home or office with gorgeous yet low maintenance plants, succulents may be the best choice for you. Their resilient nature often makes them the best choice for people just beginning to tap into their green thumb or those who have little time to tend to their plants. While it’s true that succulents require less watering, unless you are prepared to learn how to take care of these types of plants properly, you could wind up accidently killing them. So let’s dig into the basics to jump start your future horticulture hobby.
1. Watering
Watering is arguably the most important aspect to focus on when growing succulents because it is one of the fastest ways to accidently kill them.
Succulents are prone to root rot, which is caused by damp roots. For this reason, succulents’ soil should only be soaked temporarily when you water them, and watering is only necessary when the soil is completely dry. This is important to note because other plants tend to require water more often and sometimes even require their soil to be moist constantly. Mixing up the requirements could kill your succulents.
2. Light
Succulents need a lot of sunlight each day, with the minimum recommendation being three hours of direct sunlight.
When indoors, find the window with the most sunlight and put your succulents there in order to promote healthy growth. The key is to keep these plants out of the shade, whether they’re inside or outside, unless you are in an extremely hot climate. Succulents in harsher, hotter conditions benefit from shade during peak sun hours, which can be counterintuitive because of the stereotypes developed by the portrayal of cactuses (most of which are succulents) in Western films you may have seen. Succulents are actually very durable and are able to survive in a variety of temperatures due to their resilient nature. They can survive in temperatures as low as 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) overnight!
3. Soil
The ability of succulents to keep hydrated is one trait most professional athletes should revere. This means that they prefer soil that drains easily. When planting succulents outside, make sure you plant them in areas where the ground doesn’t tend to stay moist or hold water, as this type of location could drown your succulents and cause root rot. If you’re planning on keeping your plants in pots, ensure that there are plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the pots before adding soil, especially if you choose to keep the plants inside. This will help prevent overwatering.
Types of soil that are best for succulents consist of gravel, volcanic rock, cactus soil, and other similar soils. There are many succulent-specific soil mixes available, too.
As with all gardening, watching your plants and noticing changes, like drooping leaves, can help you understand what each plant needs. Every plant is different, and despite general guidelines for care, they require individual attention to make sure they grow into healthy, flourishing succulents.
1. Watering
Watering is arguably the most important aspect to focus on when growing succulents because it is one of the fastest ways to accidently kill them.
Succulents are prone to root rot, which is caused by damp roots. For this reason, succulents’ soil should only be soaked temporarily when you water them, and watering is only necessary when the soil is completely dry. This is important to note because other plants tend to require water more often and sometimes even require their soil to be moist constantly. Mixing up the requirements could kill your succulents.
2. Light
Succulents need a lot of sunlight each day, with the minimum recommendation being three hours of direct sunlight.
When indoors, find the window with the most sunlight and put your succulents there in order to promote healthy growth. The key is to keep these plants out of the shade, whether they’re inside or outside, unless you are in an extremely hot climate. Succulents in harsher, hotter conditions benefit from shade during peak sun hours, which can be counterintuitive because of the stereotypes developed by the portrayal of cactuses (most of which are succulents) in Western films you may have seen. Succulents are actually very durable and are able to survive in a variety of temperatures due to their resilient nature. They can survive in temperatures as low as 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) overnight!
3. Soil
The ability of succulents to keep hydrated is one trait most professional athletes should revere. This means that they prefer soil that drains easily. When planting succulents outside, make sure you plant them in areas where the ground doesn’t tend to stay moist or hold water, as this type of location could drown your succulents and cause root rot. If you’re planning on keeping your plants in pots, ensure that there are plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the pots before adding soil, especially if you choose to keep the plants inside. This will help prevent overwatering.
Types of soil that are best for succulents consist of gravel, volcanic rock, cactus soil, and other similar soils. There are many succulent-specific soil mixes available, too.
As with all gardening, watching your plants and noticing changes, like drooping leaves, can help you understand what each plant needs. Every plant is different, and despite general guidelines for care, they require individual attention to make sure they grow into healthy, flourishing succulents.
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Dummer. ゛☀：😁😁😁beautiful
